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Plan Your Trip 12
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Beijing
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
David Eimer Trent Holden
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Běijīng ........ 4
Běijīng’s Top 13 ............... 6
What’s New ....................15
Need to Know ................16
First Time Běijīng ..........18
Getting Around .............20
Top Itineraries .............. 22
If You Like... .................. 24
Month By Month ........... 27
With Kids .......................30
Like a Local ....................31
For Free ......................... 33
Eating ......................... 34Drinking & Nightlife ................. 42Entertainment ..........44Shopping .................... 46
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Běijīng 191
Survival Guide 229
Běijīng Maps 266
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Běijīng 48
Transport ....................230
Directory A–Z .............239
Language ....................252
Index ........................... 260
Běijīng Today .............. 192
History ......................... 194
Historic Hútòng ......... 209
Arts .............................. 214
Architecture ................223
Religion & Belief .........227
Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central ...... 52
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North .....83
Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South ...... 104
Běihǎi Park &
Xīchéng North .............113
Dashilar & Xīchéng South ............ 124
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng ................ 132
Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn ..................... 150
The Great Wall ..........162
Day Trips from Běijīng............... 174
Sleeping ..................... 181
FOTO
SE
AR
CH
/ GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©
FOTO
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HU
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AP
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Sānlĭtún &Cháoyáng
p132Drum Tower
& DōngchéngNorthp83
Temple ofHeaven Park& Dōngchéng
Southp104
SummerPalace
& Hăidiànp150
Dashilar& Xīchéng
Southp124
Bĕihăi Park& Xīchéng
Northp113
Forbidden City& Dōngchéng
Centralp52
(left) Wángfǔjǐng Snack Street p76 Barbecued skewers
(above) The Great Wall p169 The Bādálǐng sec-tion of the Wall in winter
(right) Temple of Heaven Park p106 Traditional Ming archi-tectural design
Top ItinerariesDay OneTemple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South (p104)
M You’re jet-lagged anyway, so what the heck? Get up at the crack of dawn and
head straight for Temple of Heaven Park. Běijīng is blessed with some fabulous city parks, but this is arguably the most captivat-ing of them all, and early morning, when it’s filled with locals rather than tourists, is the best time to visit. Don’t miss the park’s crowning edifice, the magnificent Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests – Ming dynasty architectural perfection.
Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South (p104)
R Join the crowds of domestic tourists on their pilgrimage-like tour of Chi-
na’s most famous public space, Tiān’ānmén Square, before spending the afternoon ex-ploring the immense palace grounds of the Forbidden City.
Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central (p52)
N Start your evening with cocktails in Mao Mao Chong Bar, north of Lit-
tle Yúnnán, before catching some live music at School Bar or Yúgōng Yíshān.
Day TwoDrum Tower & Dōngchéng North (p83)
M Ease yourself into day two with a calming stroll around the incense-
filled courtyards of the Lama Temple before visiting the equally peaceful and historic Confucius Temple. Grab a coffee at nearby Cafe Confucius before lunch.
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North (p83)
R Stroll through the hútòng to the magnificent Drum Tower. Catch
one of the drumming performances here before hopping across the square to climb the equally majestic Bell Tower. In the late afternoon, locals congregate in the square for formation dancing and you’re welcome to join in.
Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North (p113)
N Join the knowledgeable crowd who gather at the nearby East Shore
Jazz Café to listen to the best local jazz musicians, as well as overseas bands, before drinking the night away by the lakeside on the Hòuhǎi Bar Strip.
Dinner It’s only a short walk to cute courtyard restaurant Little Yúnnán (p76).
Lunch It’s time to try Běijīng’s most famous dish at Lìqún Roast Duck Restaurant (p111).
Dinner Head to hip hútòng restaurant 4corners (p120), a short walk from the Drum Tower.
Lunch Try lunch at the serene Bǎihé Vegetarian Restaurant (p94), popular with the monks from the Lama Temple.
22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Day ThreeThe Great Wall (p162)
M Make an early start. You’re heading for the Great Wall at
Zhuàngdàokǒu. It’s not the most remote section of the Wall, but it still takes a while to get there by bus, via Huáiróu.
The Great Wall (p162)
R Leave the village, and follow the stony pathway up to the Great
Wall. When you hit the Wall, turn right and begin the steep, 45-minute hike to the top (where you’ll get fabulous views of the Wall snaking off into the distance), before descending (15 minutes) to the main road by Huánghuā Chéng Great Wall. You can climb another section of the Wall
here, if you like, or just catch a bus back to Huáiróu.
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng (p132)
N If you still have any energy left, head to one of Sānlǐtún’s buzz-
ing cocktail bars: try Janes + Hooch or Parlor.
Day FourSummer Palace & Hǎidiàn (p150)
M Head to the western outskirts for a morning trip to the Summer Pal-
ace. The imperial court used to decamp here to flee Běijīng’s midsummer heat-waves. Food options are poor (although it’s great picnic territory), so have lunch at 798 Art District, where you’ll be spend-ing the afternoon.
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng (p132)
R Spend the rest of the afternoon at 798 Art District: wander the gal-
leries, stop for coffee and chat to young
artists, while keeping your eye out for quirky souvenirs.
Dashilar & Xīchéng South (p124)
N Spend your last evening in Běijīng being wowed by the city’s best
performance artists. If it’s Peking opera you fancy, there’s nowhere better than Húguǎng Guild Hall. Acrobatics more your thing? Head to Tiānqiáo Acrobatics Theatre. Can’t decide? Try the mixed- performance shows at Lao She Teahouse.
Dinner Authentic Běijīng eats at Bàodǔ Huáng (p139), near the bus terminus.
Lunch Stop for lunch at Zǎoxiāng Yard (p168), a small village guesthouse.
Dinner Head to Gǒubùlǐ (p128) for quality dumplings.
Lunch Try the Japanese and Western menu at Timezone 8 (p135), one of the key 798 hangouts.
Dragon boats on Kūnmíng Lake (p152)
CH
RIST
IAN
WIT
TM
AN
N / S
HU
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STOC
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23PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
op
ITIn
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Path/Walking Trail
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SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
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Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
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Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Běijīng Maps
266 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
MAP
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269
DŌN
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271
DŌN
GCH
ÉNG
CEN
TRAL
DŌNGCHÉNG CENTRAL Map on p270
æ Sights (p64) 31 DDC ...............................................................D1 1 Ancient Observatory ................................. H6 Modernsky Lab....................................(see 4) 2 Dōng'ān Mén Remains...............................D5
3 Former French Post Office........................D7 þ Shopping (p81) 4 Galaxy Soho................................................ H3 32 Foreign Languages Bookstore ................. D5 Gallery@Temple.................................(see 51) 33 Háoyuán Market......................................... D5 5 Imperial Granaries...................................... H1 34 Oriental Plaza.............................................. E6 6 Lao She Museum........................................D4 35 Shèng Xī Fú Hat Store ...............................D5 7 National Art Museum of China..................D3 36 Slow Lane .................................................... F4 8 Poly Art Museum ........................................ H1 37 Wangfujing Dajie......................................... D5 9 Shèng Xī Fú Hat Museum ..........................E2
10 Shǐjiā Hútòng Museum...............................F4 Ø Sports & Activities (p81) 11 St Joseph's Church ....................................D4 Bike Běijīng........................................ (see 27) 12 Ten Fu's Tea Culture House......................E4 38 Imperial City Ruins Park.............................D1 13 Zhìhuà Temple ........................................... H4 39 Jǐngshān Table Tennis Park...................... B2 40 Mílún Kungfu School.................................. E4 ú Eating (p73)
14 Běijīng Dàdǒng Roast Duck Restaurant .. F5 ÿ Sleeping (p184) 15 Chuān Bàn ...................................................H5 41 City Walls Courtyard...................................B1 16 Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant..........F1 42 Côté Cour .....................................................F3 Din Tai Fung....................................... (see 18) 43 Dragon King Hostel..................................... F1 17 Dōngzi Lǘròu Huǒshāo ............................. G4 44 Home Inn Plus..............................................E1 18 Grandma's ...................................................D5 45 Húlú Hotel.....................................................F3 19 Little Yúnnán ...............................................D2 46 Jǐngshān Garden Hotel..............................C2 20 Mǎn Fú Lóu ..................................................B2 47 Legendale Hotel.......................................... E5 Old Běijīng Hot Pot ............................. (see 5) 48 Raffles Běijīng .............................................D6 21 Temple Restaurant.....................................C2 49 Red Capital Residence................................ F1 22 Wángfǔjǐng Snack Street...........................D6 50 Red Wall Garden......................................... F4 23 Wǔgē Jīchì.....................................................F1 51 Temple Hotel...............................................C2 24 Yuèbīn Fànguǎn ..........................................D3
25 Zuǒ Lín Yòu Shè ..........................................D2 ï Information (p239) 52 Bank of China..............................................D4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p78) 53 Běijīng Tourist Information Center.......... G7 26 Alley Coffee..................................................C2 54 China International Travel Service........... E5 27 Biking Cafe...................................................C2 55 HSBC............................................................G6 28 Drunk............................................................E4 56 Peking Union Medical College Hospital... E5 29 Slow Boat Brewery Taproom.....................F1
ï Transport (p230) ý Entertainment (p80) 57 Airport Bus .................................................. E4 30 Cháng'ān Grand Theatre .......................... G6 58 CITS – International Train Tickets...........G6
272
DRUM TOW
ER & DŌN
GCHÉN
G NO
RTHDRUM TOWER & DŌNGCHÉNG NORTH Map on p274
æ Top Sights (p85) 29 Veggie Table.................. E3 þ Shopping (p101) 1 Bell Tower ...................... A4 30 Vineyard Café................ E3 62 C Rock ............................C5 2 Drum Tower................... A5 31 Wǔ Jīn Cafe.................... E3 63 Famous Tea of China.... C5 3 Lama Temple..................F3 32 Xiǎo Yú Shān .................G5 64 Giant ............................... E5 33 Yáng Fāng Lamb 65 Jīngchéng Bǎixìng.........D4 æ Sights (p89) Hotpot ......................... B5 66 Nanluogu Xiang............. C7 4 Arrow Factory................ E3 34 Yáojì Chǎogān................ B5 67 Plastered 8.....................C6 5 Běijīng Cultural & Art 35 Yī Lóng Zhāi ...................B6 68 Pottery Workshop.........D3 Centre...........................F3 36 Zhāng Māma..................D6 69 Ruìfúxiáng ...................... A5 6 Confucius Temple &
Imperial College ......... E4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p97) Ø Sports & Activities (p103) 7 Dìtán Park .......................E1 37 1796 ................................ A5 70 Culture Yard ...................F5 8 Fire God Temple............D4 38 8-Bit ................................C3 71 Mào'ér Lǎolǐ Health 9 Mao Dun's Former Arrow Factory Club..............................C6 Residence ...................C6 Taproom ........... (see 26) 72 Natooke.......................... E3 10 Qi Baishi's Former 39 Ball House...................... B5 73 Qīngnián Hú Park...........B1 Residence ................... B6 40 Cafe Confucius.............. E4 74 The Hutong.....................F5 41 Capital Spirits................H5
ú Eating (p90) 42 Distillery ..........................F7 ÿ Sleeping (p186) 11 Bǎihé Vegetarian 43 El Nido ............................D4 75 161 Lama Temple Restaurant.................. G5 44 Fresh Bean..................... E3 Courtyard Hotel .........G4 12 Bāozi Pù ......................... C5 45 Great Leap Brewing...... B6 76 Běijīng Downtown 13 Café De La Poste............F4 46 Hippo ..............................C4 Backpackers...............C6 14 Café Sambal .................. A4 47 Mài Bar ...........................C4 77 Běijīng Drum Tower 15 Chez Gérard .................. E4 48 Mao Mao Chong Bar..... D7 International 16 Dàlǐ Courtyard ............... C5 49 Modernista.....................B4 Youth Hostel............... A4 17 Georg.............................. B7 50 Other Place ....................C3 78 Courtyard 7....................C5 18 Ghost Street...................F5 51 Panda Brew.....................F5 79 Nostalgia Hotel.............. E4 19 Jiānbing Savoury 52 Pass By Bar.................... C7 80 Old Běijīng Square Pancake Vendor..........F4 53 Salud...............................C6 Hotel ............................B4 20 Jīn Dǐng Xuān..................F2 54 Siif ...................................C4 81 Orchid.............................B4 21 Le Little Saigon.............. A5 55 Tiki Bungalow................ E4 82 Peking Youth Hostel.....C6 22 Palms LA Kitchen & 56 Voyage Coffee............... C5
Bar ............................... A4 ï Information (p239) 23 Pebbles Courtyard........ D3 ý Entertainment (p100) 83 Dōngchéng Disease 24 Punk Rock Noodles ...... D5 57 Dada................................ B5 Prevention & 25 Róng Tiān Sheep 58 Hot Cat Club .................. E4 Control Centre............D6 Spine............................C4 59 Jiāng Hú .........................D6 84 PSB Main Office ............H3 26 Stuff'd............................. E3 60 School Bar ..................... E3 85 Russian Embassy..........H4 27 Supreme Hotpot........... G5 Temple Bar ...........(see 57)
28 Tàn Huā Lamb BBQ.......F4 61 Yúgōng Yíshān................F7
Toast......................(see 81)
273
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æ Top Sights (p106) 1 Temple of Heaven Park................................B4
æ Sights (p109) 2 Animal Killing Pavilion..................................D4 3 Běijīng Natural History Museum................. A5 4 Běijīng Planning Exhibition Hall ...................A1 5 Běijīng Railway Museum...............................A1 6 Běijīng Red Star ............................................ A2 7 Divine Music Administration .......................B6 8 Echo Wall .......................................................C6 9 Fasting Palace............................................... B5 10 Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests................C5 11 Imperial Vault of Heaven .............................C6 12 Long Corridor................................................C5 13 Ming City Wall Ruins Park.............................E1 14 Qianmen Dajie............................................... A2 15 Red Stairway Bridge..................................... C5 16 Round Altar....................................................C6 17 Southeast Corner Watchtower & Red Gate Gallery................................................. F1 18 Zhāohēng Gate..............................................C6
ú Eating (p111) 19 Biànyífāng......................................................D2 20 Capital M........................................................ A2 21 Dōuyīchù........................................................ A2 22 Lìqún Roast Duck Restaurant.....................B2 Old Běijīng Zhájiàng Noodle King ......(see 19) 23 Qiánmén Quánjùdé Roast Duck Restaurant.................................................. A2 24 Wedomé.........................................................D5 25 Yīzhēn Yuán................................................... E2
ý Entertainment (p112) 26 Red Theatre................................................... F4
þ Shopping (p112) 27 Hóngqiáo Pearl Market ................................D4
Ø Sports & Activities (p112) 28 NTSC Tennis Club ........................................D6
ÿ Sleeping (p187) 29 Emperor ......................................................... A2
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278
BĔIHĂI PARK & XĪCH
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BĔIHĂI PARK & XĪCHÉNG NORTH æ Top Sights (p115) 27 Hòuhǎi Bar Strip.........................................D2 1 Běihǎi Park...................................................D4 Lotus Cafe & Bar ..............................(see 40) 28 NBeer Pub ................................................... B3 æ Sights (p117) 29 Tángrén Teahouse ..................................... D3 2 Cathedral of Our Saviour...........................C4
3 Déshèngmén Gateway............................... C1 ý Entertainment (p123) 4 Guǎngjì Temple...........................................B4 30 East Shore Jazz Café................................. D3 5 Hòuhǎi Lakes...............................................C2 31 Mei Lanfang Grand Theatre...................... A3 6 Lu Xun Museum ..........................................A4
7 Mei Lanfang Former Residence................C3 þ Shopping (p123) 8 Miàoyīng Temple White Dagoba...............A4 32 Běijīng Books Building...............................B6 9 Nine Dragon Screen ...................................C3 33 Sanfo Camping Shop................................. A4 10 Prince Gong's Residence...........................C3 34 Three Stone Kite Shop ..............................D3 11 Round City ...................................................D4 35 Yandai Xiejie................................................D2 12 Silver Ingot Bridge ......................................D2
13 Song Qingling Former Residence.............C2 Ø Sports & Activities (p120) 14 South Cathedral..........................................B7 36 Golden Sail Water Sports Club.................C2 15 Temple of Ancient Monarchs....................B4 37 Hòuhǎi Exercise Park................................. C2 16 White Dagoba..............................................D4 38 Hòuhǎi Park.................................................C2 17 Xiǎoxītiān .....................................................C3
18 Xītiān Fánjìng...............................................D3 ÿ Sleeping (p187) 19 Yǒngān Temple...........................................D4 39 Graceland Yard........................................... B2 40 Pagoda Light............................................... A4 ú Eating (p120) 41 Red Lantern House .................................... B2 20 4corners.......................................................D2 42 Shíchàhǎi Sandalwood Boutique Hotel... C3 21 Kǎo Ròu Jì ....................................................D2 43 Shíchàhǎi Shadow Art Hotel.....................C2 22 Lǐjì Fēngwèi Měishí Cāntīng.......................D2 44 Siheju Courtyard Hostel............................B4 Meatball Company ...........................(see 20)
23 Qìngfēng Steamed Dumpling Shop..........D4 ï Information (p239) 24 Royal Icehouse............................................D3 45 Běijīng Tourist Information Centre..........D3 25 Wang Pang Zi...............................................D2
ï Transport (p230) û Drinking & Nightlife (p122) 46 Běijīng North Train Station ....................... A2 26 Await Cafe....................................................B4
279
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3 Xiānnóng Altar & Běijīng Ancient þ Shopping (p130) Architecture Museum .............................D4 15 Běijīng FCZ Stamps ................................... A2 16 Cathay Bookshop........................................B1 ú Eating (p126) 17 Nèiliánshēng Shoe Shop ........................... A2 4 Gǒubùlǐ ......................................................... A1 18 Róngbǎozhāi ................................................B1 5 Liú Family Noodles .....................................C2 19 Ruìfúxiáng.....................................................B1 6 Long Table ...................................................A2 20 Tóngréntáng ............................................... B2 21 Xían Yàn Tāng..............................................C1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p128)
7 Beers89........................................................C2 ÿ Sleeping (p188) 8 Soloist Coffee.............................................. A1 365 Inn..................................................(see 6) 22 Leo Courtyard.............................................C2 ý Entertainment (p129) 23 Leo Hostel ................................................... A2 9 Dàguānlóu Cinema .....................................A2 24 Qiánmén Hostel...........................................A1 10 Húguǎng Guild Hall.....................................C3 Qiánmén Jiànguó Hotel....................(see 12) 11 Lao She Teahouse ...................................... D1 25 Three-Legged Frog Hostel ........................C2 12 Líyuán Theatre ............................................C3
280
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D1
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D2
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rmat
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(p23
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103
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63
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8
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104
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C2
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C2
106
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E3
64
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B7
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7
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109
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1
67 D
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......
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.D7
87
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......
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B7
68
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1
88 C
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Wisdom ..................................................... B1 Ø Sports & Activities (p159) 6 Cloud Dispelling Hall...................................C2 17 Summer Palace Pedal Boats....................C2 7 Dragon King Temple...................................C3
8 Gate Tower of the Cloud- ÿ Sleeping (p190) Retaining Eaves........................................ B1 18 Aman at Summer Palace ...........................C1 9 Hall of Benevolence & Longevity..............C2
286
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æ Sights (p154) 12 Propaganda.................................................C2 1 Arthur M Sackler Museum of Art & Wǔ .........................................................(see 8) Archaeology ............................................. A1 13 Wǔdàokǒu Beer Garden.............................C1 2 Great Bell Temple.......................................C4
3 Peking University........................................ A1 ý Entertainment (p159) 4 Qīnghuá University..................................... B1 14 13 Club ..........................................................B1 5 Yuán Dynasty Walls Relics Park ...............D3 15 UME International Cineplex......................B4
ú Eating (p157) þ Shopping (p159) Bridge Café.........................................(see 12) 16 Centergate Como....................................... A2 6 Isshin Japanese Restaurant...................... C1
7 Khan Baba.................................................... C1 Ø Sports & Activities (p159) La Bamba............................................(see 12) 17 Friendship Hotel .........................................B4 8 Lǎo Chē Jì..................................................... C1
9 Salang-Bang................................................ C1 ÿ Sleeping (p190) 10 Xiǎodiàolítāng..............................................B2 18 LTH Hotel......................................................C1 19 Peking Uni International û Drinking & Nightlife (p159) Hostel.........................................................B1 11 Lush .............................................................. C1
287
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415311th edition – May 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 520 3© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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Our WritersDavid EimerPlan Your Trip, Understand, Survival Guide, Temple of Heaven Park & Dōngchéng South, Summer Palace & Hǎidiàn, The Great Wall, Ming Tombs, Chuāndǐxià, Shídù, Wǎnpíng TownDavid has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he
moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since 2006.
Trent HoldenForbidden City & Dōngchéng Central, Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North, Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North, Dashilar & Xīchéng South, Sānlǐtún & CháoyángA Geelong-based writer (located just outside Melbourne) Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa
and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and under-ground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books about idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor and reviewer and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
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