12
Next Meeting: Please RSVP to Amy Fu by November 5th. afu@alberto,com or 708-450- 3679. 1----------------------- - ---- - -1 The Meetin g is Free. Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Dinner Is $35 for Members, $45 f or No n- Members. Carlson 's Come r .... .. 2 Seminar Ven ue ....... 3 Chapter News . .. . ... .. 4 Eme ri tu s Comer . . . . . .. 5 Featu re Articl e . ... .6 & 7, 8 Chapter News . ..9& 10 Help Wanted . . ... .. 11 SCCocp is published 8 limes per yea r 1 11 members of the Midwest Chapl8" of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Newslttter ed itor is Sandy Tschantz: [email protected]!V or Phone Z62-2 SQ.5802 Mvef'lSing rates are $400 annual ly fo r eam 2 X 2 space. Advertising ma n al9f Gary Neudahlls your conte d; for ad placement and/or waiti", list information: Gneucahl@Haltstar.com Pho ne 708·594·5058 Pri n tirg by Flash PrinOOQ, Inc. Frank'n Park, IL (847) 288-9 101 Tuesday. October 26th 8:15am Reg istration and Continenta l Breakfast 9:15am Program Begins 3:15pm Program Ends 2010 MIDWEST SCC TECHNICAL SYMPOSIUM INNOVATION: The Westin Chicago Northwest 400 Park Bou levard Itasca, IL 60143 1830} 773-4000 SEEKING INSPIRATION FROM NEW SOURCES This event will be facilitated by our own Perry Romanowski, who will guide us in an interactive, creative day in lin e with our Innovati on them e. We have engaged an impressive group of experts across different in dustries for our speakers this yea r. KEYNOTE SPEAKER: Cheryl Perkins President and Founder of Innoval lonedge Cheryl will set the tone for the rest of our day by providing an overview of open innovation. She will discuss the benefits of bringing products and technologies from the outside in, and well as discussing new business models that ca n drive growth and profit. She will wrap up with specific do's and don' ts for implementing open innovation in your organizat ion. Robert Lochhead Professor of Polymer Science and High Performance Ma teri a ls , University of Southern Mississip pi President of Society Cosmetic Chemists Bob will identify current capabilities in the key components of invention, inn ova tion and commercialization components and how they are coordinated. He will outline how to develop an 'innovation ecosystem', of part ne rs and resources to support your innovation pipeline. Bob will share some examples of what works and does not work leveraging Personal Care case studies, and conclude with le ss ons lea rn ed from th e National Science Foundation's Partnership for Innovation program . Paul Pucci Licensing Associ ate , Wisco nsin Alumni Research Found ation (WARF ) Vi ce-Presi den t. Flan Cola Paul will focus on what companies should know about finding new technologi es at a unive rsi ty like UW Madison (e.g., technologies such as those related to cosmetiCS , skin care, an d health care ). The insights will include case studies, tips for success and how to navigate the university licensing landscape. Steve Goers VP Open I nnovati on, Knowledge Mgml, IP & Investments , Kraft Foods Steve will speak about "innovating how you innovate'- Steve will share insights on how to align yo ur organization around open innovation, including handli ng "derailers and enablers". Kraft case st ud ies will demonstrate how open innovation drives va lue creation. Steve will focus on how to improve the organization's innova tion effectiveness & efficiency vi a three critical competencies: Knowing What We Know (Knowledge Management). Leveri ng What Others Know (Open Innovation ), Protecti ng What We Know ( In te llectual Property ). For more information on topics, registration and location, see page 3.

Please RSVP to Amy Fu by November 5th. 1 ... · for eam 2 X 2 space. Advertising manal9f Gary Neudahlls your conted; for ad placement and/or waiti", list information: [email protected]

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Page 1: Please RSVP to Amy Fu by November 5th. 1 ... · for eam 2 X 2 space. Advertising manal9f Gary Neudahlls your conted; for ad placement and/or waiti", list information: Gneucahl@Haltstar.com

Next Meeting:

Please RSVP to Amy Fu by November 5th. afu@alberto,com or 708-450-3679. 1------------------------ ----- -1 The Meeting is Free.

Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Dinner Is $35 for Members, $45 for Non-Members.

Carlson's Comer .... .. 2

Seminar Venue ....... 3

Chapter News . .. . ... .. 4

Emeritus Comer . . . . . .. 5

Feature Article . ... . 6 & 7, 8

Chapter News . ..9& 10

Help Wanted . . ... .. 11

SCCocp is published 8 l imes per year 111 members of the Midwest Chapl8" of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

Newslttter editor is Sandy Tschantz: [email protected]!V or PhoneZ62-2SQ.5802

Mvef'lSing rates are $400 annually fo r eam 2 X 2 space. Advertising manal9f Gary Neudahlls your con ted; for ad placement and/or waiti", list information: [email protected] Phone 708·594·5058

Prin tirg by Flash PrinOOQ, Inc. Frank'n Park, IL (847) 288-9101

Tuesday. October 26th 8:15am Registration and

Continental Breakfast 9:15am Program Begins 3:15pm Program Ends

2010 MIDWEST SCC TECHNICAL SYMPOSIUM

INNOVATION:

The Westin Chicago Northwest 400 Park Boulevard Itasca, IL 60143 1830} 773-4000

SEEKING INSPIRATION FROM NEW SOURCES

This event will be facilitated by our own Perry Romanowski, who will guide us in an interactive, creative day in line with our Innovation theme. We have engaged an impressive group of experts across different industries for our speakers this year.

KEYNOTE SPEAKER: Cheryl Perkins President and Founder of Innovallonedge

Cheryl will set the tone for the rest of our day by providing an overview of open innovation. She will discuss the benefits of bringing products and technologies from the outside in, and well as discussing new business models that can drive growth and profit. She w ill wrap up with specific do's and don'ts for implementing open innovation in your organization.

Robert Lochhead Professor of Polymer Science and High Performance Materials, University of Southern Mississippi

President of Society Cosmetic Chemists

Bob will identify current capabilities in the key components of invention, innovation and commercialization components and how they are coordinated. He will outline how to develop an 'innovation ecosystem', of partners and resources to support your innovation pipeline. Bob will share some examples of what works and does not work leverag ing Personal Care case studies, and conclude with lessons learned from the National Science Foundation 's Partnership for Innovation program .

Paul Pucci Licensing Associate, Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation (WARF)

Vice-President. Flan Cola

Paul will focus on what companies should know about finding new technologies at a universi ty like UW Madison (e.g., technologies such as those related to cosmetiCS, skin care, and health care). The insights will include case studies, tips for success and how to navigate the university licensing landscape.

Steve Goers VP Open Innovation, Knowledge Mgml, IP & Investments, Kraft Foods

Steve will speak about "innovating how you innovate '- Steve will share insights on how to align your organ ization around open innovation, including handling "derailers and enablers". Kraft case studies will demonstrate how open innovation drives value creation. Steve will focus on how to improve the organization's innovation effectiveness & efficiency via three critical competencies: Knowing What We Know (Knowledge Management). Levering What Others Know (Open Innovation ), Protecting What We Know (Intellectual Property).

For more information on topics, registration and location, see page 3.

Page 2: Please RSVP to Amy Fu by November 5th. 1 ... · for eam 2 X 2 space. Advertising manal9f Gary Neudahlls your conted; for ad placement and/or waiti", list information: Gneucahl@Haltstar.com

- ..

2

Welcome back to Carlson's Comerl

The end of the year is fast approaching, but there are still several great sec opportunities everyone over the next few months. We are still accepting applications for the sec scholarships between now and October 15, and we have changed the program a little this year. All 6 scholarships are open to all qualified candidates. Please encourage anyone you know in a scientific field related to cosmetic chemistry to apply.

We will also be having our election for Chapter and National Officers in October. This year our chapter will be filling the offICes of Chair-Elect and Secretary. The Secretary race this year is hotly contested so be sure to gel those ballots in. There are also a number of hot races for the national offices of Vice President-Elect. Treasurer and Director. Area II so don't forget to vote in that election as well. One of our own MW members, Perry Romanowski, is running for Vice President-Elect.

Thank you to Ronald L. Koch , PhD, our speaker at our September meeting. It was interesting to see how a pharmacy student goes about de-constructing a formulation of an over­the-counter drug. It was also great to see a number of new members at the meeting and have an exciting trivia contest.

r am looking forward to the 2010 Technical Symposium on Tuesday, October 26th at the Westin in Itasca, IL. Our theme is Open Innovation. We have a great line up for a day of thinking out of the box. If you haven 't registered yet you can sign up using our registration form in this newsletter or online at http://www.midwestscc.org/eventsldetaiV2010_mwscc_techni caLsymposiuml.

Our November 9th Chapter Meeting will be at Cafe LaCave in Des Plaines, IL. Our speaker is Christopher Heisig PhD. We w ill have more details about the meeting in our next newsletter and on the website soon. We will also have our Officer Installations Award presentations and a raffle for attendance. Please join us for what promises to be a wonderful evening. We will be doing our Toys for Tots drive again this year so please bring your unwrapped toy to the meeting. The Marines will be there to take them to children in need.

Contact me at [email protected] with any comments or suggestions. Mark your calendars and take advantage of our events. We are always looking for volunteers so contact me if you are interested in participating. Don't forget to visit our website regularly, particularly the events page so that you can get full details on all our upcoming events and chapter news.

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SCCoop October 2010· Vol XLII- No. 7

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8:15am Registration and Continental Breakfast

9:15am Program Begins 3:15pm Program Ends

October 26th Mwsee Technical Seminar The Westin Chicago Northwest 400 Park Boulevard Itasca, IL 60143 (630) 773-4000

Midwest sec 2010 Technical Symposium INNOVATION : Seeking inspiration from new sources This event will be facilitated by our own Perry Romanowski, who will guide us

in an interactive, creative day in line with our Innovation theme.

• Learn the basic elements of Open Innovation and its benefits for transforming businesses to create value and deliver sustainable growth.

• Review case studies of companies across industries that are leveraging open innovation processes, systems and tools to deliver a robust product pipeline and new prOfitable business models.

• Develop an understanding of the key do's and don'ts for implementing open innovation.

• Participate in an interactive session comprised of speaker experts, creative exercises and showcase innovation examples.

Registration includes program, continental breakfast and buffet lunch. First ten paid registrants are eligible to win a $50 gift card, so you will want to register now at

www·mldwestscc.org

Before October 8th: $105 for sec members, $120 for non-members

After October 8th: $130 for sec members. 5150 for non-members

Discounted hotel rooms are available at $119 per night and must be booked by October 1 st. Reservations can be made at 630-773-4000 , you will need to reference ·Society of CosmetiC Chemists" to be eligible for the discounted rate.

Questions can be directed to debbie.zartler@uniyarusa or 312·961·1468. Please note that we will not be soliciting sponsorships this year. as we are able to fund our event through the proceeds from the Teamworks tradeshow.

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SCCoop October 2010 - Vol XUI· No. 7 3

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Chapter News s~c .~~~

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Midwest see Tutorial Recap by

Rita Massinople

This past June many of our members attended our informative free tutorial ti tled: Fragrance Overview for Personal Care Products . The course was presented by Steve Herman who has extensive knowledge of the fragrance industry, see below for his biography.

The course was fil led with lots of background information, Le. , from the history of fragrances with the initial development of perfume in 1600 BC which was made by maceration in Mesopotamia. The distillation of alcohol with serpentine cooler occurred in Italy during the 15th Century. Eventually around 1533 perfumery was brought to France by Caterina De'Medici.

Also, we learned that Jicky (oriental woody fragrance) laid the foundation of the great French perfumery Guerlain and it ~marked the beginning of emotive perfumery, which no longer attempted to imitate the scent of flowers, but it sought instead to arouse emotions.~

In addition , the discovery of two major synthetic materials, coumarin (from tonka) and vanillin helped to laid down the foundation for fragrance development. Of course the history would not be complete without mentioning Chanel No. 5, developed in 1921 by Ernest Beaux and it is based on a floral aldehyde blend.

The course also covered the sensory process Chemoreception, by which we detect and respond to external chemical stimuli . Also, Steve reviewed the basics of fragrance development and duplication, i.e., fragrance triangle with the bottom , middle and top notes. We reviewed natural products and aroma chemicals which are important aspects of the fragrance industry. The latter part of the course focused on fragrance applications, regulation and safety.

The instructor also kept us engaged with the many fragrance samples that we got to smell and the lively video clips that he showed. Also, all participants received a CD disc which will help us to refresh our knowledge.

All in all , this was a very informative and well presented course. Many thanks to Steve and kudos to all the members who participated in the seminar to make the event a huge success.

About the instructor: Steve Herman is President of Diffusion LLC, a consulting company specializing in regulatory issues, intellectual property, and technology development and transfer. He is an Adjunct Professor in the FDU Cosmetic Science Program, teaching the Cosmetic Formulation Lab and Perfumery. His SCC activities include service as Chairman of the NY Chapter in 1992, election to Felfow status in 2002, and instructor in the Continuing Education Program. He also teaches several fragrance related courses for the Center for Professional Advancement.

sCCoop October 2010 • Vol XLII· No. 7

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S.e.t: Emeritus Corner

In Memoriam: SCC Chapter member Leon Bellafiore by

Dennis Ciechna

A long lime member of o ur chapter, Leon Bellfiore, passed away recently a fter a lengthy illness. Leon joined the sec in 1985. He was a member of the Midwest Chapter until relocating to Florida for retirement. Leon joined the Chicago Perfumery Soap and Extract Association Inc (STINKERS) in 1979, became President in 1990, and was a lifetime Honorary Member.

Orig inal ly working for Reheis Chemical, he began his career in the fragrance industry when industry veteran Ray Hogan of Perry Brothers hired him as a sa les rep in the Midwest. He then went on to Florasynth and RNA in Chicago. Dennis Ciechna

Barbara Clechna and Leon Benaflore celebrating their birthdays.

rec ruited Leon back to w ork with Ray Hogan at Hogan F&F and they were joined by old time FJorasynth buddy, Barry Pava, who currently resides in Florida.

Leon enjoyed golf and attended almost every outing he could along with other SCC members like Bob Brown , George Concar, Bob Orth, Barry Pava and Dennis Ciechna.

Leon was born March 28, 1945 in New York and met his future wife , Donna, while attending night school and driving a taxi in New York City. Donna and Leon had two children , Scott and Ericka and a total of three grandkids . Donna can be reached at sa [email protected]

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Feature Article sec ---.....---.-.--... Formulating with Exotic Butters James J. Ramirez, Larry S. Moroni - BioChemica International, USA

Contrary to what their name might otherwise imply, exotic butters being used in cosmetic formulations are not sourced from milk and contain no dairy by-products.

By definition , exotic butters are naturally occurring, plant-derived lipids that are generally solid at room temperature, but melt readily on contact with the skin. The definition has been extended to indude man-made butters produced via blending of natural (plant derived) oils with fractionated or hydrogenated oils to simulate the properties of a -butter".

Naturally occurring butlers are extracted by various means and usually come from the seeds or kernels of the source plant Expeller pressing (physical extraction) and chemical (solvent) extraction are Ihe most commonly employed techniques to obtain the

: =-o~~~G : =\\'~~ _ _ e-,

_.-C'.,.

_0 .. _ . -..- ".~ _ _ 0:, .. _

_ .,.-_ .. lipid content butter. The fatty acid chemistry and composition of a butter are directly responsible for its physical qualities such as melting point, hardness, stability and the reason thai this oil is a solid at room temperature in the first place. Exotic butters such as shea and cocoa are considered ·classic· emollients. They have been relied on as integral cosmetic oil-phase ingredients for decades. They both have fatty acid profiles that lend

themselves towards penetrating the epidermis in order to hold in moisture, and to bring nutrients to the different strala of the skin. They have both shown excellent miscibility, acceptable oxidative stability (with cocoa butter outperforming shea butter in terms of shelf life), along with higher levels of

6

saturated fatty acids contributing to emulsion stability.1 These classic butters, along with a slew of new emerging exotic butters can build viscosity in emulsions and add complexi ty and depth to anhydrous product formulations. Indeed, naturally occuning butters such as mango butter, shea butter, sal (Shorea Robusta) butter, cupuacu (COO-PA-SOO) butter, and tucuma (TOO-Coo-MA) butter have proven to have aesthetically pleasing properties. Many companies such as The Body Shop and natural cosmetics giant Burt's Bees are marketing them as pure "body butters".

With such an increase in attention given towards nalural cosmetics, certified organic cosmetics and the ayurvedic personal care movement that is exploding worldwide. other lesser known butters such as sal (Shorea). kokum (CO-COME), illipe (E-lip-A), murumuru, (MOO-ROO-MOOROO) and mowrah (MO-RA)

,-

-_.

--

butters will give cosmetic chemists variety when picking a CBS or SBS (cocoa butter substitute, shea butter substitute). These butlers promise to offer a bevy of different aesthetic qualities with benefits to personal care products ranging from oxidative stability, humectant properties , anti-inflammatory properties to curative abilities for such maladies as eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis and sun bum. While not a cure-all by any means, the level of versatili ty and efficacy thai these emerging nalural ingredients can offer to almost any kind of formula should not be ignored or taken lightly.

What is a butter? The triglyceride structure of a glycerol molecule esterified with 3 fatty acid molecules is Ihe main component (95%) tnat makes up all vegetable lipids and allows for a great variety of physical

traits lhat a butter can exhibit. There are many other components found in vegetable lipids such as mono and dilycerides, fatty alcohols, and additional fatty acids Ihat are not linked to glycerol referred to as "free fatty acids", terpenes, and fat soluble vitamins to name a few. None of these components are as important to tne physical properties of the lipid (butter) as is the triglyceride, and for this reason these other components are not covered in this article (Fig. 1).

If all of the fatty acids in a triglyceride are identical it is a simple triglyceride. The more common form is a "mixed' triglyceride where two to three different fatty acids are present. If there are no carbon-to-carbon double bonds present in the fatty acid it is saturated and therefore less chemically active (Fig. 2). The greater a percentage of saturated fatty acids in a butter. the harder and more brittle the butter will be. As the number of carbon atoms (carbon chain length) goes up in saturaled fatty acids, the higher the melting point of the individual fatty acids. If a double bond is present then the fatty acid is unsaturated. One double bond makes it mono-unsaturated and more than one makes it a polyunsaturated fatty acid. Unsaturated fatty acids tend to have low metting points and almost all are liquid al room temperature.3

The melting point of a butler is really a range of all the melting points of all of the fatty acids found within it. Generally, that range differs as the ratio of solid saturated fatty acids to liquid unsaturated fatty acids changes. For this reason the butter really has a "melting curve" as opposed to a specific melting point. For example, a butter such as kokum with its high percentage of stearic acid (a saturated fatty acid of moderate length) will be a hard butter that has a higher than normal melting point (37-40°C). Because most of the fally acid content is concentrated in this acid, one could expect a rapid liquificalion to occur when Ihe target temperature is reached -th is is due to the lack of even a small percentage of longer chain fatty acids being present in its composition (Table 1).

A butter such as shea that has a more evenly distributed fatty acid composition will

SCCoop October 2010 • Vol XLII' No. 7

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sec Feature Article ~_._",,,,, ___ ,,, ___ "~'_ •• ""-o...::o\ooo.~ ...... ,-_

have a complexity to its liquification. It will be more gradual as the melting temperature of each fatty acid is reached and the un-melted fatty acids continue to be held in suspension. Consequentially, shea butter has a greater thickness and consistency, and a longer "play time" on the skin as it melts and is absorbed . Yet another example is the "flash- melting and extreme hardness of cocoa butter. Cocoa butter is made up of predominantly shorter chain saturated fatty acids. The saturation accounts for the hardness and brittleness, but the absence of longer chain fatty acids accounts for its relatively low melting point (31-3S"C) and rapid rate of melting.

As it relates to exotic butters, when cosmetic formulators use terms like skin feel , drag , cushion, and play time, they are referring to the way a butter changes from a solid on the skin into a liquid. It also relates to the time and manner in which it is absorbed into the skin. Tacky, oily, greasy, dry, matte, and powdery are all terms that describe the after-feel of a butter. The after-feel is determined by the percentage of components left behind and not immediately absorbed into the top layers of the epidermis. The more that is left behind, the more greasy, wet or oily the after-feel will be. The less left behind, the more matte, dry or powdery the after-feel will be. These characteristics differ greatly from butter to butler and (with some level of subjectivity involved) from chemist to chemist. For th is reason the chemist should carefully examine a butler in order to obtain an idea of what aesthetic oontribuUon to their cosmetic system the butter will have. A seasoned cosmetic chemist will be able to look at a fa tty acid composition of a butter or oil and already have an idea of what kind of characterisUcs this malerial will impart (Table 2).

Aesthetic match There are some man-made butters being introduced to the cosmetic industry which create an aesthetic match of naturally occurring butters. These butters tend to be refined cosmetic vegetable oils such as olive, avocado, macadamia, jojoba and almond that have eilher undergone hydrogenation, or have been physically blended with hydrogenated or fractionated vegetable oils. These new butters offer more oxidative stability than the oils alone, and give formulators new options when considering product aesthetics and function on the skin.

SCCOOO October 2010· Vol XLII · NO. 7

2OOf------

o LS_-C·_"",~~ linoleic Alpha uoo/eoic C:18:0 C:18:1 C:18:2 IrooIInc C:18:)

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Figure 2: OxIdatIve propensity of unsatutated (atty acids.

There have been some aesthetic issues with regard to butters giving negative contributions to formulas in the past. Refined versions of butters are often valued for their aesthetic attributes wi thout contributing the natural. often "earthf characteristics of th e crude butter such as strong odour or colour. Neutralisation and fractionation aremethods to refine butters, with bleaching and deodorising being the most gentle and common ways to accomplish the refinement. Natural clays and steam are used in these processes as opposed to using solvents in chemical fractionation and the alkali washing processes found in neutralising of other oils.

Based on a report published in the Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society (May 2006; 83: 435-441), the ideal processed butter would be one that has been manufactured by cold (expeller) pressing of the seeds, and has undergone only minimal refining such as filtration through bleaching clays. Oils such as these were found to have higher levels of natural tocopherols and phytosterols than oils that were hexane extracted, refined and deodorised. The heat degradation (or cooking life) of the "naturar oil was found to be very similar to that of a refined version of the same oil that had anti-oxidants added to it.S

It would seem that this study might have levelled the oxidative stability playing field when speaking of "natura l" oils and butters versus butters that have either been refined or man-made butters thai have a certain level of hydrogenation. It was thought for some time

Table 1: Melting points of

spcclnc fatty acids.

Fanyacld

Palmitic C:16:0 Steai1C C:18:0

OleiC C:18:1 Cis

Oleic C:18:1 trans

UnoIeiC C:1B:2

Alpha linolenIC C:18:3

Temp ' c

65

73 5.5

42

·13

·24

that if you wanted to increase the shelf life of an oil, you either had to add anti-oxidants or partially hydrogenate an oil in order to reduce the number of active sites where auto-oxidation could occur. It is a recent development that naturally occurring and "man-made" butters can both offer increased oxidative stability over their lraditional cosmetic oil phase predecessors such as nawral vegetable oils.2

This is an important development indeed, because it means that exotic butters can increase the overall quality of various formula types. None will be affected more than the traditional oil-inwater (ONol) emulsion, where it has been shown that increased oxidative stability is in direct correlation with increased emulsion stability. Oil-in-water emulsions (tiny droplets of oil held in suspension within a oontinuous water phase) are more prone to oxidation problems because the outer water phase acts as a great carrier of oxidising species. Because of this easy transport, they can directly attack the emulsion interface where they begin the formation of peroxidised fatty acids.

These peroxidised fatty acids form carbonyl compounds, which can react with amino compounds present in protein that are found as a suliace active ingredient at the globular interface of the emulsion. The reaction of carbonyl compounds and amino compounds will decrease the suliace activity of said proteins, and ultimately denature the proteins found at the interface, causing emulsion problems such as separation and leaching. It is obvious that exotic butters offer a clear advantage to a formula which employs them at the core of its emulsion system. Butter's inherent oxidative stability and resulting emulsion stability is furthered by deterring the peroxidation of fatty acids that start the biochemical and biological degradation chain reaction.

Avoiding exotic butter formulation pitfalts

7

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Feature Article ~C • Cooling rates are important when formulating with exotic butters. This is because a butter's texture and consistency is directly related to its crystall ine structure, all of which are directly affected by its initial cooling rate. As discussed earlier, butlers are a mixture of solid (saturated) fatty acids and liquid (often unsaturated) fatty acids. II is this -marriage' between liquid and solid components that is disrupted during the heating and cooling process.

As with an emulsion, particle size (or in the case of butters, crystal size) will have a lot to do wi th how the butter feels. If you take a hard, smooth butter and subject it to various temperatures of heat and then various rates of cooling you will have multiple physical

can be found in butters from time 10 time.

For these reasons, high sheer homogenisers should be used when processing butters into an emulsion. Slow -the water phase under agitation will ensure a more homogenous mix. You do not want to cool too quickly and risk ·shocking" the emulsion. This will cause coagulation and dispersion problems. A relatively moderate cooling rate will ensure a good setup with most emulsions. If a butter's natural physical properties are desired in an anhydrous formula, then rapid cooling prior to filling, or freezing after hot pouring is recommended.

Conclusion

Table 2: Physical characteristics of naturally occurring buners

Bomer

cocoa CUpuacu 1II1p(!

",,"um Mango -Murumuru sal

Skin feel

""-«'Til

HIM1>

t(ICIM

C

IJSI

IJS

H/WIM

Melting point range ·c

30-35

32-36

35-38

37 - 40

31- 39

24 -27

26- 30

34 - 38

Playtime on skin

snort Leng1hy

Medium Medium

Me(tum

ShOrt

SIlo<t

Medium

Shea SrMIC 31 - 38 Lengt/ly"-_-1 t<ey: D .. Dry; L .. lubricIOus; M - Matte; T ... Tacky; W - WWI: C "" Creamy;

S .. Slippery, H .. Ham; Sf .. Soft.

expressions of thai butler that may range from soft and slightly grainy to a feeling of a semi­solid with grit-like particles being held in it. This is because the solid components of a butler form a crystal matrix that can be visualised as a web of interlocking strands. The smaller and lighter this matrix is, the harder and smoother the butter will be.

A smooth butter has been subjected to cooling rates that are optimal for a homogenous mixture of solid and liquid fractions. Crystallisation problems occur when the cooling rate allows for a very gradual reconstitution of this crystal matrix. The interlocking solid strands of the butter that would normally be locking in the liqu id fractions within its matrix or web start bonding together in clumps. The resu lt is a butter that has disproportionate levels of solid with solid, and liquid with liquid. This is the cause of problems like leaching and gra ininess that

8

Although a limited number of exotic butters have been used traditionally in cosmetics and toiletries, the recent increase in range and popularity of these butters has posed both great opportunities and challenges for the formulating cnemist in the 21st Century. With the advent of the ·green~ movement, formulators are now obliged to use ingredients that are derived from consumer· friendly and earth-friendly renewable sources. In this regard, exotic butters fit the criteria quite well.

Because of the rising popularity of the ' natural" cosmetics movement, a consumer can visit nearly any department store and find dozens of finished "body butters· , lotions, cremes and anhydrous products which contain some form of exotic butter in the ingredient list. From our research, it is clear Ihat there are many real, all natural bulters and vegetable fats that can add

exotic butter legitimacy to such formulations.

As the use of exotic buHers in the personal care market increases, the creative and innovative ways in which these ingredients are manipulated will also surely increase. Already, we are seeing cosmetic ingredient companies focusing on the most beneficial parts of the butlers (i.e. shea butter's high percentage of unsaponifiables in the olein fraction) and creating custom exotic butlers that offer a concentrated level of one particular fatty acid or ester. Some companies are also using some forms of exotic bulters for the creation of novel plant extracts (extract bulters).

Innovations such as these will further widen the versatility of this categolY and may even pave the way for "butter in water" emulsions (BIW emulsions), a new term used among cosmetic chemists. While exotic butters have been used sparingly as novel ingredients, they do show potential to become mainstay components that will become a cornerstone for every research and development laboralory WOfIdwide.

References 1 Berdick, Murray. The Role of Fats and Oils in Cosmetics. Journal of lheAmetican Oil Chemists' Society 49 (1911): 406 -408.

2 Berry, Donna. Reinventin9 0:1 Stabi~ty. Food Product Design. 4 May 2007 hltp:JlwKw.foodproductdesign.comIarticlesi 463n 4h1 08534560S.html.

3 Saimgeour, Char1ie. Chemistry of Fatty Acids, Bailey's Industrial Oil and Fat Products, Sixth Edition. Ed. Fereicloon Shahldi. John Wiley & Sons, Inc, 2005. 1-43.

4 Strayer, Dennis. Food Fats and Oils: Ninth Edition. Washington DC: The Insbtute of Shortening and Edible Oils, 2006.

5 Thomas A Hydrogenation - Use in Fryir\9 ons. SCI l ecture Paper Series 1353 (1998): 1-5.

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SCCOOD October 2010 - Vol XLII- No. 7

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SMCC National News • Behind the Scenes with Chemistry! ACS Chemistry Day

Saturday, October 23, 2010 Loyola University Please join usl The Society of Cosmetic Chemists will be participating in the ACS Chemistry Day on Saturday, October 23, 2010 at Loyola University from 9:00 am -2:30 pm at Flanner Hall , located at 1068 W. Sheridan, near the intersection of West Sheridan Rd and Winthrop. The sec wi ll be exhibiting at the event and demonstrating some principles of chemistry used in the manufacture of personal care products.

The theme will be "Behind the Scenes with Chemisty". The event is hands on demonstrations for ALL ages and is FREE to attend . This event has many exciting activities for students and their parents, teachers , guardians, as well as scout and other community leaders, which include magic demonstrations, wonderful hands-on chemistry lab experiments, interactive exhibits, and an inspirational Boy Scout chemistry merit badge program.

This is a great event for the family with and a great way to introduce students to the world of science.

Please contact Chris Oaraska at [email protected] or cali 630-548-4632 for more information. Visit the Chicago Section ACS website at htto:llchicaaoacs.net for the most up to date information.

Now Accepting Applications for Midwest SCC Chapter 2010 Scholarships

Once again the MW SCC chapter is proud to sponsor our annual scholarship awards. These awards, worth $1000 each , will be presented to students who exhibit exhibiting excellence in either coursework or research in the fields of chemistry, biology, cosmetic , or all ied sciences. Special consideration will be given to students actively pursuing careers in cosmetic science. Application forms can be found on the web site.

We encourage all interested parties to respond. Visit http://www.midwestscc.org/scholarshipl todownload a copy of this year's application.

Application deadline is October 15, 2010.

SCCoo October 2010 • Vol XLII· NO. 7

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Chapter News

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10

MW see

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Contest! The Nominating Committee for the 201 0 has put

Please send in your renewal for together a strong list of candidates. You will receive

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We came so close last year - If you have any questions about the election let's make it happen! contact our secretary at

~g!ii[§:li![):@midwelili!ii!iiIQ[g

Midwest SCC to hold Toys for Tots Toy Drive at November Chapter Meeting

This year, our Chapter has voted to support a "Toys for Tots" toy Drive at our most attended annual meeting, the November chapter meeting. The mission of the Marine Toys for Tots Foundation is to help less fortunate children throughout the United States experience the joy of Christmas; to play an active role in the development of one of our nation's most valuable resources - our children and to unite all members of local communities in a common cause. We would lilt"e to join in with helping this cause, which several other Chapters have contributed to in the past years.

TOYS I'Oft TorS

• .. If you would like to contribute, please bring one or more unwrapped toys to the November Chapter meeting at Cafe la Cave on November 9th. To assist you or if you would like to contribute a toy but may not have the time to go out of your way to pick up any toys, there is a shopping center with a Target store on Manheim road right by the restaurant. If you would like to make a monetary donation, please go to http://www,toysfortots,ora/to arrange to make a donation.

The Marine Toys for Tots Foundation was awarded Charity Navigator's highest 4-Star rating for sound fiscal management (2005-2008). Their average program to support Service expense ratio: (2000-2008) is 97% program to 3% support. The Marine Toys for Tots Foundation has met ali 20 standards established by the Better Business Bureau WiseGiving Al liance.

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SCCoop October 2010· Vol XLII· No. 7

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MW ' see \, Help Wanted -----~

Technical Service Scientist University Park. Il

Rhodia Inc. is an inlemational chemical company resolutely committed to sustainable development. As a leader in its businesses, the Group aims to improve its customers' performance through the pursuit of operational excellence and its ability to innovate. Structured around six Enterprises, Rhodia is the partner of major players in the automotive, refining, electronics, flavors and fragrances, health, personal and home care markets, consumer goods and industrial markets.

Rhodia Inc. has an eXciting opportunity for a Technical Service Scientist to join its University Park, IL plant. The incumbent will be responsible for providing technical support to Rhodia's customer needs as well as technical customer service. Responsibili ties will also include the design and execution of experiments and evaluation of results for existing product lines and support of related fast-track projects. This position will also provide after-sales technical support to customers during tria l period and provide train ing to Jess experienced researchers, business people and sales team. In addition the Technical Service Scientist will support the liaison between the application lab's innovation and tech service delivery.

For more information see httD:I/www.midwestscc.qrg/careers! or contact [email protected]/la.cqm

For more Career Opportunites, check out the Careers section of

www,MidwestSCC,org

"I It I' t fi lr l r l :s II I

\

EIIOC_ ca slr< 018(1 \.1)-", o...-."",ot R~ GbWOI'oo,'Horol l ".~" ..• "'<I<"" <>!«O""

~o ,

SCCoop October 2010 ' Vol XLII· No,7

Product Development Research Scientist

Location: Cincinnati, OH Kao Brands Company is a leading marketer of beauty care products . Innovative business practices and breakthrough product introductions have propelled Kao Brands Company to enjoy world-wide success with its much­loved Jergens skincare products and other popular brands includ ing Biore, Curel , Ban, and the John Frieda professional haircare brands. We look for innovative, entrepreneurial professionals with fresh ideas who would like to be part of a dynamic growing company. If you've got what it takes to join our fast­paced organization, consider the following opportunity as a Research Scientist.

A Research Scientist's primary responsibili ty is formulating/commercializing multiple products for KBC. Under technical guidance of a senior formulator or group leader, the Research Scientist will be responsible for developing, technically evaluating, and stability testing their formulations for global application.

Job Requirements: Seeking a highly qualified scientist with a min imum of th ree years hands-on formulation experience, preferably in personal care or OTC drug industry. Experience developing emulsion systems is a plus. Preferably the successful candidate would have a Bachelor's Degree in Chemistry or science related field.

For more information see httD:llwww.midwestsCc·qrg/caceers/ Please apply via the careers section on www.kaqbrancis.com

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SCCooP. Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

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