TableofContentsCoverPageTitlePageIntroductionRootsPoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaiseSpicyMoroccancarrotsaladBeet,orangeandblackolivesaladRoastedparsnipsandsweetpotatoeswithcapervinaigretteTwo-potatovindalooBeet,yogurtandpreservedlemonrelishRoyalpotatosaladSurprisetatinJerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloilSweetpotatowedgeswithlemongrasscrèmefraîcheParsnipdumplingsinbrothSeasonaltempuraSweetpotatocakes

FunnyOnionsLeekfrittersCaramelizedgarlictartStuffedonionsFriedleeksBlackpeppertofuGarlicsoupandharissa

MushroomsMushroomragoutwithpoachedduckeggBánhxèoStuffedportobellowithmeltingTaleggioMarinatedmushroomswithwalnutandtahiniyogurtMushroomlasagne

WildmushroomparcelZucchiniandOtherSquashesHalloweensoufflésRoastedbutternutsquashwithsweetspices,limeandgreenchile“Mixedgrill”withparsleyoilStuffedzucchiniZucchiniandhazelnutsaladCrustedpumpkinwedgeswithsourcreamTamara’sratatouille

PeppersMulti-vegetablepaellaMarinatedpeppersaladwithpecorinoVeryfulltartScrambledsmokyduckeggsonsourdoughShakshuka

BrassicasBroccoliandGorgonzolapieBroccoliniandsweetsesamesaladStuffedcabbageSmokyfrittataPurplesproutingbroccoliwithricenoodlesCabbageandkohlrabisaladSweetwinterslawSavoycabbageandParmesanrindsoupBrusselssproutsandtofuSaffroncauliflower

TheMightyEggplantEggplantwithbuttermilksauceSobanoodleswitheggplantandmangoEggplanttricolore(andmore)BroiledvegetablesoupLentilswithbroiledeggplantEggplantcroquettes

BurnteggplantwithtahiniTomatoesMarinatedbuffalomozzarellaandtomatoQuinoaandgrilledsourdoughsaladTomato,semolinaandcilantrosoupTomatopartyQuesadillasHerb-stuffedtomatoes

Leaves,CookedandRawBakedeggswithyogurtandchileChardandsaffronomelettesLettucesaladSwisschard,chickpeaandtamarindstewChardcakeswithsorrelsauceGreenpancakeswithlimebutterWatercress,pistachioandorangeblossomsaladEgg,spinachandpecorinopizzaCaramelizedendivewithGruyèreGrapeleaf,herbandyogurtpieNuttyendivewithRoquefortBittersweetsalad

GreenThingsCucumbersaladwithsmashedgarlicandgingerLemonyglobeartichokesAsparagus,fennelandbeetswithverjusCaramelizedfennelwithgoatcheeseGlobeartichokeswithcrushedfavabeansArtichokegratinOkrawithtomato,lemonandcilantroGreengazpachoAsparagusmimosaChar-grilledasparagusAsparagusvichyssoise

MeegorengSobanoodleswithwakame

GreenBeansMixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovageFavabeanburgersGado-gadoGreenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragonWarmglassnoodlesandedamameHotyogurtandfavabeansoup

PulsesPuylentilgalettesHummuswithfulChickpeasautéwithGreekyogurtFriedlimabeanswithfeta,sorrelandsumacCeleriacandlentilswithhazelnutandmintChickpea,tomatoandbreadsoupGreenlentils,asparagusandwatercressSpicedredlentilswithcucumberyogurtCastellucciolentilswithtomatoesandGorgonzolaSocca

GrainsAvocado,quinoaandfavabeansaladCoconutricewithsambalandokraLemonandeggplantrisottoFarroandroastedpeppersaladSteamedricewithherbs(or,actually,herbswithrice)YogurtflatbreadswithbarleyandmushroomsBarleyandpomegranatesaladKısırCardamomricewithpoachedeggsandyogurtFreekehpilafItamar’sbulgurpilafMangoandcoconutricesalad

QuinoasaladwithdriedPersianlimePasta,Polenta,CouscousLemonandgoatcheeseravioliCrunchypappardellePastaandfriedzucchinisaladGreencouscousSaffrontagliatellewithspicedbutterTheultimatewintercouscousMushroomandherbpolentaSweetcornpolenta

FruitwithCheeseFigswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigretteGoatcheesesouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeachesQuinceandsweetGorgonzolasaladPearcrostiniDatesandTurkishsheep’scheeseWatermelonandfeta

IndexAcknowledgmentsCopyright

IntroductionI’llstartwithsomethingassimpleandunassumingasrice.WhenItrytothinkofalltheusesforthisgrainIimmediatelygodizzywiththecountlesspossibilities-withinandbetweencultures,pairingwithotheringredients,allthetypesofriceavailable,themethodsofcookingandwhenyouserveit,theconsistency,degreeofprocessing,homecooking,commercialuses.Ithinkofpaella,wildricesaladand ho fan noodles. I visualize arancini with their golden breadcrumb crust,Iraniansaffronricewithpotatoes,Chinesefriedrice,ricepudding.Irecallplainsteamed ricemymomused to prepare formewhen I had a bad tummy,withonlyalittlebitofbutterstirredinattheend.Icanthenmoveontoanothercerealgrainsuchaswheatandthinkofthingswedo with flour - dumplings, pastas, breads, pastries - or of less-processedexampleslikebulghurorwholewheat.Mymindthenwanderstothesphereoflentils, driedbeans, greenbeans, peas.There areherbs, leaves, seeds, flowers,roots, bulbs, fruit and fungi - each part of a separate little universe, with amillionvarietiesandvariationswithinit.WhatIamgettingatishowluckyweare(althoughunfortunatelynotallofus)tobe living andcooking in aworld that offers sucha spectrumof ingredientsandsomanyculinaryheritages todrawon.Andthis iswhatgetsmeexcited-the multitude of ingredients cooked and processed by so many people in somanywayswithsomanydifferentpurposes.

TheNewVegetarian

Backin2006,whenIwasfirstapproachedbytheGuardiantowriteavegetariancolumnintheirWeekendmagazine,Iwasslightlyhesitant.Afterall,Iwasn’tavegetarian.The issuewasn’t close tomyheart either and I hadnever given itmuchthought.Still,IunderstoodthereasoningbehindtheGuardian’sapproach.Ottolenghihadbecomefamousforwhatwedidwithvegetablesandgrains,forthefreshnessandoriginalityofoursalads,anditonlymadesensetoaskmetosharethiswithvegetarianreaders.It tookmeawhile, though, toget togripswithmytitle,TheNewVegetarian,and itmade someGuardian readers extremely unhappy to learn that the newvegetarianwasn’tavegetarianatall.Acoupleofangryletterstotheeditorstickin my mind and an incident where I suggested serving a salad with some

barbecuedlambchops.Unfortunately,myeditormissedthistoo.Butwithtimethetaskhasbecomemorenaturaltome.Ottolenghi’svegetarianimagewasrightlybasedonthefactthatbothSamiTamimi-theothercreativeforcebehind thecompanyandco-authorofOttolenghi:TheCookbook - and Iwere brought up in Israel and Palestine andwere exposed to themultitude ofvegetables, pulses and grains that are celebrated in the region’s differentcuisines.The food I had growing upwas a hugemixture of diverse culinary cultures -EuropeanathomeandMiddleEasternallaround-withanabundanceofeasilysourced fresh ingredients. The greengrocer’s where my mother does hershopping in theneighboringArabvillagealways remindsmeof this. It sells afantasticallyfreshabundanceoflocalandseasonalfruitandveg,whatIcallrealfruit andvegbecause they look real, taste real andaregrownby realpeople -that is, Arab or Jewish farmers and not nameless farmers across the globe. Itsellscucumbers,kohlrabis,figs,pomegranates,apricots,almondsandpistachios,aswellasherbs fromthearea, localhalva,oliveoilandmuchmore.Bothmyparentsusedthiswealthdailytopreparerealmealsofrealfood,whichistheirfood.Thismultitudeofingredientsandwaysofmakingmiracleswiththemhavegivenmetheperfecttoolsformakingupdishesandturningthemintorecipes.Thisisalsowhyvegetariancookingdidn’tturnouttobeachoreforme.IlikemeatandI like fish but I can easily cook without them. My grandmother’s vinegar-marinatedzucchini,ortheripefigswithsheep’scheeseweusedtodownbeforedinner,areassubstantialandasbasicasanycutofmeatIusedtohave.

Vegetarianism

Still,Iamnotavegetarianandthisisimportanttomention.IrefertomeatandfishintheintroductionstotherecipesasIoccasionallyhavetheminthebackofmymind.But I don’tmiss these two elements. In this book I offer dozens ofsoliddishes,allbalancedandnurturing,thatjusthappentoincludeneitherfishnormeat.Why vegetarianism then?What is the reason behind not havingmeat or fish?Whywouldpeoplebeinterestedinthisvegetariancollection?First,thisisanassemblyofmyworkintheGuardianoverthepastfouryears.Ihaveoftenbeenaskedby readers,who’vebecome fedupwithcollecting littlebitsoftornpaper,toassembleitalltogetherinonevolume.Mostofthesebitsof

paperarenowhereforthem,plusplentymorenewrecipesIhaven’tpublishedbefore.But more to the point, people have very different motivations for wanting tocookvegetarianrecipes.Somechooseunequivocallytoexcludemeatfromtheirdiet.Manydothisformoralorotherpersonalreasons,whichIbothunderstandand respect. These people may find allusions to non-vegetarian ingredientsdisturbing. Some may not like my extensive use of eggs and dairy products.Manywould probably be put off bymy advocating the use of Parmesan andother continental cheeses that almost always include animal rennet in theirproduction.Myanswer toall theseobjections is that Icanonlybemyselfandcookwhat I like to eat. I believe thatmost seasoned vegetarianswould knowwhich elements in the book to adopt andwhich to disregard,which suit theirtypeofvegetarianismandwhichdon’t.A second group of people, which is increasingly growing in number, arepragmaticvegetarians, thosewhohaveexcludedmeatorfishfromtheirdiet tosome degree, but are not completely put off by the notion. This groupwouldincludepeoplewhoareconcernedwiththehealthimplicationsofeatingmeat.Italsoconsistsofpeoplewhowouldliketoeliminateorreducetheirconsumptionofmeatandfishduetotheenvironmentalimplications.Theyareputoffbywhatmass-scalefarmingdoestothelandandthesea,howgrowingnumbersofcattleherdscontribute to thegrowth ingreenhousegasesand thewarmingupof theplanet.Manylongforatimewhenmeatwasprecious,areasonforcelebrationratherthanacheapcommodity,atimewhenfarmanimalswerehighlyregardedandtheirslaughtermoresensible.Recentcampaignsforthereducedconsumptionofmeatemphasizehowwastefulitistogainourcaloriesfrommeatratherthanfromvegetables,pulsesorgrains.This argument and the general sense of over-indulgence over the last fewdecades have convinced many to include less meat in their diet, to make itspecialandvaluableagain.This, along with increased availability of old and new vegetables and theknowledgeofhowtogrowthemorsourcethemethically,isthemostimportantforcebehindtheheightenedinterestinvegetarianfood.

TheBook

I divided this book into chapters in quite an unsystematic way. More thananything, it reveals the way I think and work when writing a recipe. At the

center of everydish, at the beginningof the thought process, is an ingredient,oneingredient-notjustanyingredientbutoneofmyfavoriteingredients.Itendto set offwith this central element and then try to elaborate on it, enhance it,bringitoutinanewway,whilestillkeepingitinthecenter,attheheartofthefinaldish.So the chapters reflect this bias. They focus on some ingredients and neglectothers, and they hold them together in clusters that make sense tome. Somecomponents are so central to my cooking - like eggplant, of course - that Idedicateaspecialchaptertothemalone.Thentherearebotanicalcategories,likebrassicas, thatalthougha littlescientificactuallymakesensetome; theybringtogether vegetables that I naturally associatewith eachother, earthyyet fresh.Other headings stem from other private associations and the way I shapemymenus.Manyof the recipes thatwere publishedbefore,mainly in theGuardian, havehadsomechangesmadetothem,somemoreradicalthanothers.Ican’talwaysrecount why these changes were made. My style of cooking and writing haschangedovertheyearsandthingsthatseemedtomakesensethen(potatoinanartichokegratin,forexample)don’tmakesensenow.Butmoregenerally,everytimeyouapproachadish,atleastwhenIdo,itfeelsslightlydifferent.Itseemstobeaskingforalittlealteration,fortheadditionofthisortheremovalofthat.Itrytostayattentivetothis.Iguessthisiswhatmakesrealfood.YotamOttolenghi

Roots

Poachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaise

Poaching is popular again, and rightly so. Vegetables cooked this way don’tneed to be insipid or dull; if not overcooked, they can show off their natural

attributesandtastefreshandlightinawaythatyounevergetwhenroastingorfrying.

Whenmaking this recipe,choosebeautiful seasonalvegetables thatareclearlyfresh and flavorful.Baby turnips or cornwillwork too, andyou can also addfreshfavabeans,peasandgreenbeans.Justremember togiveyourvegetablesminimum treatment - don’t chop themupmuchanddon’t cook them forverylong.Servethevegetableswarmorcold.

Serves4

Mayonnaise1/2garlicclove,crushed1eggyolk11/2tspwhitewinevinegar1/2tspDijonmustard1/2tspsaltgratedzestandjuiceof1/2lemon1/3cupvegetableoil2tbspcapers,drainedwellandfinelychopped

1bunchbabycarrots,peeled4babyfennel12spearsfineasparagus8babyzucchini10babyleeks2tbspchoppeddilltoserve

Poachingliquor21/2cupswhitewine1cupoliveoil2/3cuplemonjuice2bayleaves1/2onion2celerystalks1tspsalt

Tomakethemayonnaise.Placethegarlic,eggyolk,vinegar,mustard,saltandlemonjuiceinthebowlofafoodprocessor.Startblendingandthenveryslowlydribbleintheoiluntilyougetathickmayonnaise.Foldinthecapersandlemonzestandsetaside.

Washthevegetablesbutdon’ttrimthemtoomuchsoyouareleftwithsomeofthe stalk or leaves. Cut the vegetables lengthways into halves or quarters,depending on their size, trying to get similarly sized pieces. Very thinvegetables,likeasparagus,don’tneedtobecut.

Tomakethepoachingliquor.Place thewineinawidepanandboilfor2 to3minutes.Add all the other poaching liquor ingredients and bring to a simmer.Start thepoachingbyaddingthecarrotsandfennel to thepot.After3minutesaddtheasparagus,zucchiniandleeksandpoachforafurther3to4minutes.Atthispointthevegetablesshouldbecookedbutstillcrunchy.

Using tongs lift thevegetables from thepoaching liquor andontodeepplates.Spoonsome liquoraround thevegetables ifyou like.Before serving, topeachportionwith a dollop ofmayonnaise and sprinklewith dill.You can keep theremainingpoachingliquorinthefridgetouseagain.

SpicyMoroccancarrotsalad

Therearecountlessvariationsonthisgutsysalad,allincorporatingsweetspices,freshherbsandsomesortoflemonykick.MyversionisintenseandwillgowellasonecomponentinafeastofMiddleEasternsalads,orjusttoaccompanyfriedfish.Youcanserveitwarm,aswellascold,withFreekehPilafforinstance.

Serves4

2lbscarrots1/3cupoliveoil,plusextratofinish1mediumonion,finelychopped1tspsugar3garliccloves,crushed2mediumgreenchiles,finelychopped1greenonion,finelychopped1/8tspgroundcloves1/4 tsp ground ginger 1/2 tsp ground coriander 3/4 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp

sweetpaprika1tspgroundcumin1tbspwhitewinevinegar1tbspchoppedpreservedlemonsalt21/2 cups cilantro leaves, chopped, plus extra to garnish 1/2 cupGreekyogurt,

chilledPeel the carrots and cut them, depending on their size, into cylinders orsemicircles 1/2 inch thick; all the pieces should end up roughly the same size.Placeinalargesaucepanandcoverwithsaltedwater.Bringtotheboil,thenturndowntheheatandsimmerforabout10minutesoruntiltenderbutstillcrunchy.Draininacolanderandleavetodryout.

Heattheoilinalargepanandsautétheonionfor12minutesonamediumheatuntilsoftandslightlybrown.Addthecookedcarrotstotheonion,followedbyall theremainingingredients,apartfromthecilantroandyogurt.Removefromtheheat.Seasonliberallywithsalt,stirwellandleavetocool.

Before serving, stir in the cilantro, taste andadjust the seasoning if necessary.Serveinindividualbowlswithadollopofyogurt,adrizzleofoilandgarnishedwiththeextracilantro.

Beet,orangeandblackolivesalad

Themildsweetnessofbeetsoffersanidealbackgroundfortheintensityofsharporangeandsaltyolive,creatinganunusualyetdelicioussalad.UseGreekblackolivesofthedry,wrinkledvariety.Havingmaturedlongeronthetree,theyaresaltierandmore robust in flavor. Ifyouwish tokeep thesaladmoremildandfreshitalsotastesgreatwithouttheolives.ServewithSteamedRicewithHerbstocreatealightandhealthfulmeal.

Serves2generously

5smallor2largebeets2oranges1Treviso(redchicory)1/2smallredonion,thinlysliced3tbspchoppedparsley5tbspblackolives,pittedandhalved3tbspgrapeseedoil

1tsporangeflowerwater11/2tbspredwinevinegarsaltandblackpepper

Placethebeetsinapot,coverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Cookfor1to2hours,oruntiltender-whenyoustickasmallknifeintoeachbeetitshouldgoinsmoothly.Leavethebeetstocooldowninthewater.Oncecool,takethemoutandpeel.Cutinhalf,thencuteachhalfintowedgesthatare1inchthickattheirbase.Placethebeetsinamixingbowl.

Take theoranges anduse a small sharpknife to trimoff their tops andbases.Nowcutdownthesidesoftheoranges,followingtheirnaturalcurves,toremovethe skin and white pith. Over a small bowl remove the segments from theorangesbyslicingbetween themembranes.Transfer thesegmentsand juice tothebowlwiththebeets;discardthemembrane.

Cut theTrevisovertically into1-inch-thickslices.Break themup intoseparateleavesandaddtothesalad.

Finally,addtheremainingingredientsandtosseverythingtogethergently.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning,thenserve.

Roastedparsnipsandsweetpotatoeswithcapervinaigrette

Treatthisrecipeasablueprintforaninfinitenumberofroastvegetabledishes.The point here is to lighten up long-cooked veggieswith something crisp andfresh. You can use any of your favorite vegetables - rutabaga, potato, carrot,salsify,beet, cauliflower - andmanyother refreshingcombinationsat theend:choppedherbs such as basil ormint, grated lemonzest, harissapaste, crushedgarlicoramellowvinegar.

Serves4

4parsnips(11/2lbstotal)4mediumredonions2/3cupoliveoil4thymesprigs2rosemarysprigs1headgarlic,halvedhorizontallysaltandblackpepper2mediumsweetpotatoes(11/4lbstotal)30cherrytomatoes,halved

2tbsplemonjuice4tbspsmallcapers(roughlychoppediflarge)1/2tbspmaplesyrup1/2tspDijonmustard1tbsptoastedsesameseeds(optional)

Preheattheovento375°F.Peeltheparsnipsandcutintotwoorthreesegments,depending on their lengths. Then cut each piece lengthways into two or four.Youwantpieces roughly2 inches longand1/2-inchwide.Peel theonionsandcuteachintosixwedges.

Placetheparsnipsandonionsinalargemixingbowlandadd1/2cupoftheoliveoil,thethyme,rosemary,garlic,1teaspoonsaltandsomepepper.Mixwellandspreadoutinalargeroastingpan.Roastfor20minutes.

Whiletheparsnipsarecooking,trimbothendsofthesweetpotatoes.Cutthem(with their skins)widthways in half, then each half into sixwedges. Add thepotatoestothepanwiththeparsnipsandonionandstirwell.Returntotheoventoroastforafurther40to50minutes.

Whenall thevegetablesarecookedthroughandhave takenonagoldencolor,stir in the halved tomatoes. Roast for 10 minutes more. Meanwhile, whisktogetherthelemonjuice,capers,maplesyrup,mustard,remaining2tablespoonsoiland1/2teaspoonsalt.

Pourthedressingovertheroastedvegetablesassoonasyoutakethemoutoftheoven.Stirwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoning.Scatterthesesameseedsoverthevegetablesifusingandserveatthetableintheroastingpan.

Two-potatovindaloo

Here’sagreatrecipeyoucanmakeheapsofandkeepforafewdays.Itonlygetsbetter!Asalways,thickcoolyogurtwillmakeanexcellentcondiment.

Serves4

8cardamompods1tbspcuminseeds1tbspcorianderseeds1/2tspcloves1/4tspgroundturmeric1tspsweetpaprika1tspgroundcinnamon2tbspvegetableoil12shallots(about10ozintotal),chopped1/2tspbrownmustardseeds1/2tspfenugreekseeds25curryleaves2tbspchoppedfreshginger1freshredchile,finelychopped3ripetomatoes,peeledandroughlychopped1/4cupcidervinegar13/4cupswater1tbspsugarsalt21/2cupspeeledwaxypotatoes,cutinto1-inchdice2smallredbellpeppers,cut

into1-inchdice21/2 cupspeeledsweetpotatoes, cut into1-inchdicemintorcilantro leaves to

serve

Dry-roast thecardamompodsandcuminandcorianderseeds inasmall fryingpanovermediumheatuntil theybegin topop.Transfer toamortarandpestleand add the cloves. Work to a fine powder, removing and discarding thecardamom pods once the seeds are released. Add the turmeric, paprika andcinnamonandsetaside.

Heatuptheoilinalargeheavy-basedpot.Addtheshallotswiththemustardand

fenugreek seeds, and sauté on a medium-low heat for 8minutes, or until theshallotsbrown.Stirinthespicemix,curryleaves,gingerandchileandcookforafurther3minutes.Next,addthetomatoes,vinegar,water,sugarandsomesalt.Bringtotheboil,thenleavetosimmer,covered,for20minutes.

Add thepotatoesandbellpeppersandsimmerforanother20minutes.For thelaststage,addthesweetpotatoes.Makesureallthevegetablesarejustimmersedinthesauce(addmorewaterifneeded)andcontinuecooking,covered,forabout40minutes,oruntilthepotatoesaretender.

Remove the lid and leave to bubble away for about 10minutes to reduce andthickenthesauce.Servehot,withplainriceandgarnishedwithherbs.

Beet,yogurtandpreservedlemonrelish

Somewonderful beets are available in the summermonths: small, firm bulbs,soldwith the stalks and the leaves.Don’t throw out the leaves.Use them forsalads,orsautéwithalittleoliveoil,garlicandcarawayseedsandservewarmwithadollopofcrèmefraîche.Ifyoumanagetogetyoungbeetsyoumaywantto roast them in the oven, covered in foil, rather than boil them as describedbelow.Theyaremoreflavorfulthisway.

Thepreserved lemonrelishcanbeused in loadsofothercontexts.Trymixingwithcookedpotatotocreateasaladorservingalongsideoilyfish.

Serves4

2lbslargebeets4heapedtbspchoppeddill1smallredonion,verythinlysliced2/3cupGreekyogurt

Relish2yellowbellpeppers

3tbspoliveoil11/2tspcorianderseedsone14-ozcanchoppedplumtomatoes(withtheirjuices)2garliccloves,crushed1tspsugarsaltandblackpepper3tbspchoppedpreservedlemon2tbspeachchoppedparsleyandcilantro

Startbycookingthebeetswholeinplentyofboilingwaterfor1to2hours,oruntil theyare tender;checkbypiercingthemwithaknife.Allowthemtocooldowncompletelybeforeyoupeelthemandcutintowedges.

Tomaketherelish.Preheatthegrilltohigh.Useasmallknifetocutaroundthestems of the peppers; carefully pull out the stemswith the seeds and discard.Placethepeppersonagrillpanlinedwithfoilandgrillforupto30minutes,oruntil they are cooked inside and black on the outside, turning themover onceduringthecooking.Foldtheedgesofthefoiloverthepepperstoenclosethemcompletely,thenleavetocooldown.Peelthemandcutintostrips.

Pourtheoliveoil intoamediumsaucepan,heatupandfrythecorianderseedsfor 30 seconds.Add the tomatoes, garlic, sugar and some salt andpepper andsimmerfor15minutes.Addthepreservedlemonandcontinuesimmeringfor10minutes.Remove from theheat and stir in theherbsandyellowpepper strips.Allowtocooldowncompletely.

Whenyouarereadytofinishthesalad,transferthecoolbeetwedgestoamixingbowlandaddtherelish,dill,redonionandsomesaltandpepper.Stirwell,thentaste for seasoning. Just before you serve, add the yogurt and swirl it throughgently.Don’tstirtoomuch,soyougetawhiteandredmarbledeffectratherthanuniformpink.

Royalpotatosalad

JerseyRoyalpotatoesareattheirpeakinspringandearlysummer,whichisjust

aswellsincetheymakeastunningpicnicsalad.Thisoneisaposhed-upversionoftheordinaryspudsaladandit’sjustassatisfying.

Serves4-6

15quail’seggs1cuppetitepeas(frozen)13/4 lbs new potatoes, such as Jersey Royals, washed but not scrubbed 1 cup

basilleaves1/2cupparsleyleaves,plusalittleextrachoppedtogarnish1/3cuppinenuts1/2cupgratedParmesan(2oz)2garliccloves,crushed1cupoliveoil1/2tspwhitewinevinegarbunchofsorrel(ormint)leaves,finelyshreddedsaltandblackpepper

Placethequail’seggsinasaucepan,coverwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Simmer for between 30 seconds (soft-boiled) and 2 minutes (hard-boiled),dependingonhowyoulikethemcooked.Refreshincoldwater,thenpeel.

Blanch the peas in boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and refresh. Setaside.

In a separate pan of boilingwater, cook the potatoes for 15 to 20minutes, oruntiltheyaresoftbutnotfallingapart.

Whilethepotatoesarecookingplacethebasil,parsley,pinenuts,Parmesanandgarlicinafoodprocessorandblitztoapaste.Addtheoilandpulseuntilyougetarunnypesto.Pourintoalargebowl.

Drain thepotatoes, thencut in twoas soonasyoucanhandle them (theywillabsorbmoreflavorwhenhot).Addtothebowlandtosswiththepesto,vinegar,sorrelandpeas.Mixwell,evencrushingthepotatoesslightly,soalltheflavorsmix.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning;begenerouswithpepper.

Cuttheeggsinhalfandgentlyfoldintothesalad.Garnishwithchoppedparsley.

Surprisetatin

Fillingatartwithpotatoesisarealtreatforpotatolovers.Serveitwithagreensalad and you don’t need much else. You can use commercial sun-driedtomatoesinoiltosaveyourselfmakingtheoven-driedtomatoes.

Serves4

11/2 cups cherry tomatoes 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling over thetomatoesandforthepansaltandblackpepper

1lbnewpotatoes(skinson)1largeonion,thinlysliced3tbspsugar2tspbutter3oreganosprigs5ozagedgoatcheese,sliced1puffpastrysheet,rolledthinly

Preheattheovento275°F.Halvethetomatoesandplacethemskin-sidedownonabaking sheet.Drizzle over someolive oil and sprinklewith salt andpepper.Placeintheoventodryfor45minutes.

Meanwhile,cookthepotatoesinboilingsaltedwaterfor25minutes.Drainandletcool.Trimoffabitofthetopandbottomofeachpotato,thencutinto1-inch-thickdiscs.

Sautétheonionwiththeoilandsomesaltforabout10minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.

Onceyou’vepreparedall thevegetables,brusha9-inchcakepanwithoilandlinethebottomwithacircleofparchmentpaper.Inasmallpancookthesugarandbutteronahighheat,stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoon,togetasemi-darkcaramel.Pour thecaramelcarefully into thecakepanand tilt it tospreadthecaramelevenlyoverthebottom.Picktheoreganoleaves,tearandscatteron

thecaramel.

Lay the potato slices close together, cut-side down, on the bottomof the pan.Gentlypressonionandtomatoesintothegapsandsprinklegenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Spreadtheslicesofgoatcheeseevenlyoverthepotatoes.Cutapuffpastrydiscthatis1inchlargerindiameterthanthepan.Laythepastrylidoverthe tart filling and gently tuck the edges down around the potatoes inside thepan.(Atthisstageyoucanchillthetartforupto24hours.)Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake the tart for 25 minutes, then reduce thetemperatureto350°Fandcontinuebakingfor15minutes,oruntilthepastryisthoroughly cooked. Remove from the oven and let settle for 2 minutes only.Hold an inverted plate firmly on top of the pan and carefully but briskly turnthemovertogether,thenliftoffthepan.Servethetarthotorwarm.

JerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloil

Here’s a complex salad thatmakes awhole satisfyingmeal on its own. In itscenterthereisManouri,arichGreeksheep’scheesethatIuseoften.Ifyoucan’tgetit,usehalloumioranothersoftish,youngsheep’scheese.

Serves4

1lbJerusalemartichokesjuiceof2smalllemons4thymesprigs1tbspoliveoilsaltandblackpepper

Basiloil2cupsbasil(leavesandstalks)1/2cupflat-leafparsley(leavesandstalks)1garlicclove,peeledsalt2/3cupoliveoil

1/2cupoliveoil23/4cupscherrytomatoessalt14ozManouri cheese (orhalloumi), cut into1/2-inch-thick slices1Trevisoor

Belgianendive(redorwhitechicory),separatedintoleavesPreheat the oven to 425°F. Start with the artichokes. Squeeze the juice of 1lemonintoamediumbowlandaddabout21/4cupsofwater.Peeltheartichokeswith a vegetable peeler, slice them lengthways 3/8-inch thick and throwimmediatelyintotheacidulatedwatertopreventthemfromturningbrown.

Lift the artichokes from thewater into anovenproofdish.Add the thyme, thejuiceofthesecondlemon,3tablespoonswater,1tablespoonoliveoilandsomesalt and pepper.Mix everything together, then spread out the artichoke slices.Coverthedishwithfoilandputitintotheoventoroastfor40to45minutes,oruntiltheartichokesaretender.Takeoutoftheovenandkeepsomewherewarm.

Tomakethebasiloil.Putthebasil,parsley,garlicandapinchofsaltinafoodprocessorbowlandstartthemachine.Addtheoilinaslowtrickle.Whenitisallincorporatedyouwillhavearunnypaste.

Placealargefryingpanonhighheatandletitheatupwell.Add1tablespoonofthe oil and the tomatoes and char them quickly, shaking the pan to get evencoloring. After 3 to 4 minutes the tomatoes should be lightly blackened butretaintheirshape.Sprinklewithsalt,removefromthepanandaddthemtothecookedartichokes.

Whenyou are ready to serve,wipe cleanyour fryingpan andpour in enougholiveoiltocome2inchesupthesides.Setonamediumheatand,oncehot,frythe cheese slices for about 2minutes on each side, or until they turn a goodbrowncolor.Transfertopapertowels.

Arrange someendive leaveson servingdishes.Buildup the saladon topwithwarm cheese, Jerusalem artichokes, cherry tomatoes and more leaves. Finishwithadrizzleofbasiloilandserveatonce.

Sweetpotatowedgeswithlemongrasscrèmefraîche

Myright-handpersonwith thisbookwasClaudineBoulstridge.Claudine triedmost of the recipes diligently and came back with criticisms, insights andgeneral common-sensical observations. Despite her gracious nature I couldalwaysrelyonher to tellmeifsomethingI’dcomeupwithwasutterrubbish.To top it all, she is also very creative. This is one of her recipes and it’swonderful.

Serves4

3mediumsweetpotatoes(about2lbsintotal)4tbspoliveoil11/2tspgroundcoriander3/4tspfineseasalt1freshredchile,finelydiced1cupcilantro,leavespicked

Dippingsauce1/2lemongrassstalk3/4cupcrèmefraîchegratedzestandjuiceof2limes1inchfreshginger,peeledandgrated1/2tspfineseasaltPreheat the oven to 400°F.Wash the sweet potatoes but don’t peel them.Cuteachlengthwaysinhalf.Cutagainlengthwaysintoquartersandthenoncemoreinthesameway,soyouareleftintheendwitheightlongwedges.

Place them in a roasting pan that has been lined with parchment paper andbrushedlightlywithsomeoftheoliveoil.Brushthewedgeswiththeremainingoilandsprinklewithamixtureofthegroundcorianderandsalt.Roastforabout25minutes,oruntilthesweetpotatoistenderandgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandallowtocooldownalittle.(Thewedgescanbeeatenwarmoratroomtemperature.)Tomakethedippingsauce.Veryfinelychopthelemongrassorgrindfinelyinaspicegrinder.Whiskwithalloftheotheringredientsforthedippingsauceandsetaside.

When ready to serve, place thewedges on a large, flat serving dish. Sprinkle

withthedicedchileandcilantroleaves,andservewiththesauceontheside.

Parsnipdumplingsinbroth

OssiBurger,adearfriendwhoisfamousforherlavishmeals,alwayscomesupwith ingenious solutions for the one and only vegetarian in the bunch, herdaughter Noa. Ossi recently told me her trick for a deep-flavored vegetarianbroth - she adds prunes to it. I’m telling you, it works! You can keep thevegetables left over frommaking stock and serve themdeep-fried, or even astheyare,withmayonnaiseoraioli.

Serves4

Broth3tbspoliveoil3carrots,peeledandcutintosticks5celerystalks,cutintochunks1largeonion,quartered1/2celeriac,peeledandroughlychopped7garliccloves,peeled5thymesprigs2 small bunches of parsley, plus some chopped parsley to garnish 10 black

peppercorns3bayleaves8prunes

Dumplings1/2 lb russet potato (1 small), peeled and diced 11/2 cups peeled and diced

parsnips1garlicclove,peeled2tbspbutter1/2cupself-risingflour(seenote)1/3cupsemolina1eggsaltandwhitepepper

Tomake thebroth.Heatup theoliveoil ina largepot.Addall thevegetablesandgarlic and sauté for a fewminutesuntil they color lightly.Add theherbs,spices and prunes and cover with cold water. Simmer for up to 11/2 hours,skimmingthesurfaceandaddingmorewaterwhenneededsothatattheendof

thecookingyouareleftwithenoughliquidforfourportions.

Strain thebroth throughafinesieve intoacleanpan.Addsomeof thecarrotsandsomeceleryorceleriac,ifyoulike.Setasidereadyforreheating.

Tomakethedumplings.Cookthepotato,parsnipsandgarlicinplentyofboilingsaltedwateruntilsoft;drainwell.Wipedrythepaninwhichthevegetableswerecookedandputthembackinside.Addthebutterandsautéonmediumheatforafewminutestogetridoftheexcessmoisture.Whilehotmashthemwithapotatoricerormasher.Addtheflour,semolina,egg,andsomesaltandpepperandmixuntilincorporated.Chillfor30to60minutes,coveredwithplasticwrap.

Reheatthebrothandtasteforseasoning.Inanotherpan,bringsomesaltedwaterto a light simmer. Dip a teaspoon into the water and use it to spoon out thedumplingmixintothewater.Oncethedumplingscomeuptothesurface,leavetosimmerfor30seconds,thenremovefromthewaterwithaslottedspoon.

Ladle thehotbroth intobowls.Place thedumplings in thebroth,garnishwithparsleyandserveimmediately.

Note:Tomake self-rising flour, combine1 cup flour, 11/4 tsp bakingpowder,andapinchofsalt.

Seasonaltempura

Here’s the perfect solution for all your vegetables. This tempura isbreathtakinglydelicious.

Serves4

Dippingsauce6cardamompodsgratedzestandjuiceof4limes(about1/3cupjuice)

1freshgreenchile23/4cupscilantro(leavesandstalks)1tbspsugar4tbspsunfloweroil1/2tspsalt2tbspwater

About23/4 lbs (netweight) freshlypreparedvegetables (seemethod), such as:

Jerusalemartichoke,beet,broccoli,potato,sweetpotato,carrot,cauliflower,celeriac,babyleek,parsnip,kohlrabi,salsify,turnip1/2cupcornstarch,plusextra to coat the vegetables 1/2 cup self-rising flour 3/4 cup seltzer orsparklingwater2tspgrapeseedoil

1/4tspsaltchileflakestotaste3cupssunfloweroilfordeep-frying

Tomake the sauce. Break the cardamom pods using amortar and pestle andtransfertheseedstoafood-processorbowl.Discardthepods.Addtherestoftheingredientsandblitztogetasmooth,runnysauce.

Nextpreparethevegetables.Therearen’tanystrictrulesyoumustfollowbuttrytokeepthemchunkyandretainsomeofthenaturalshapeofthevegetablewherepossible-forexample,roundvegetablescutintothinwedgesandlongonesintobatonsorstrips.Hereareafewusefulsuggestions.Forcauliflowerandbroccoli,divide intomediumflorets; forbeets,peelandcut into1/8-inch-thickslicesorwedges;forpotatoesandsweetpotatoes,leavetheskinonandcutinto1/4-inch-thickslices;forJerusalemartichoke,carrot,parsnip,salsify,turnipandceleriac,peelandcut into3/8-inch-thicksticks,not tooperfect; forbaby leeks just trimoffthegreenends.

Before you start frying the vegetables, prepare a large plate lined with papertowels. Scatter some cornstarch for coating the vegetables on another plate.Placethebatteringredients-flour,cornstarch,sodawater,grapeseedoilandsalt-inabowlandwhiskwelltogetasmooth,runnymix.Addsomechileflakesforheat.

Pour thefryingoil intoamediumsaucepanandplaceonhighheat.Onceveryhot,turntheheatdowntomedium.Whenfryingthevegetables,theoilshouldbehotenoughsoyougetagoodsizzlebutnotsohotthattheyburn.

Deep-fryfourorfivepiecesofvegetableatatime.Takeeachpieceandtossitinthecornstarch.Shaketoremoveanyexcess,thendipinthebatter.Liftandshakeagain, thencarefullyput into theoil.As theyfry, turn thepiecesover tocolorevenly.Softvegetableslikeleekshouldtakeabout1minutetocook,harderoneslikebeets2minutesormore.Whenfrying,occasionallyremoveanyburntbitsthatfloatintheoil.Astheycook,transferthevegetablesontothepapertowelsandkeepwarm.

Whenallthevegetablesarecooked,servethematonce,withthedippingsauceontheside.

Sweetpotatocakes

WhenIwasastudentinTelAvivintheearly1990sIlivedinthetrendycenterof the city, aroundShenkinStreet, andused tohangabout in caféswithotherstudents who, just like me, talked about meaningful things with an air ofinnocentself-importance.Attheveryheartofthecenterwasasmallcafé,calledOrna andElla’s, that epitomized the scene; everyonewanted to be seen there.AndwhatsymbolizedOrnaandElla’swas their legendarysweetpotatocakes.Here’samodifiedversion.

Serves4

21/4lbspeeledsweetpotatoes,cutintolargechunksSauce

3tbspGreekyogurt3tbspsourcream2tbspoliveoil1tbsplemonjuice1tbspchoppedcilantrosaltandblackpepper

2tspsoysaucescant3/4cupall-purposeflour1tspsalt1/2tspsugar3tbspchoppedgreenonion1/2 tspfinelychoppedfreshredchile(ormore ifyouwant themhot)plentyof

butterforfrying

Steamthesweetpotatoesuntilcompletelysoft,thenleaveinacolandertodrainforatleastanhour.

Tomake the sauce.Whisk together all the sauce ingredients until smooth; setaside.

Once thesweetpotatoeshave lostmostof their liquid,place theminamixingbowl and add the rest of the ingredients (except the butter). Mix everythingtogether,preferablybyhand,untilthemixissmoothandeven;donotover-mix.Themixtureshouldbesticky;ifit’srunnyaddsomemoreflour.

Meltsomebutter inanon-stickfryingpan.Foreachcake,usea tablespoon toliftsomemixintothepanandflattenwiththebackofthespoontocreateanot-too-perfectdiscthatisroughly2inchesindiameterand3/8inchthick.Frythecakesonmediumheatforabout6minutesoneachside,oruntilyougetanicebrowncrust.Placeinbetweentwosheetsofpapertowelstosoakuptheexcessbutter.Servehotorwarm,withthesauceontheside.

FunnyOnions

Leekfritters

Myaunt,YonaAshkenazi,makesthemostheavenlyleekfritters,inspiredbyherlate husband Yaacov’s Turkish descent. I have to admit I haven’t eaten her

wonderful food for many years but these fritters in particular, and anotherversion made with spinach, remain distinct and sweet childhood memories. Ibelievemyleekfritterscomequiteclose.

Don’tbeputoffbythelonglistofingredients.Youarelikelytofindmanyoftheminyourkitchencupboard.Youalsodon’thavetomakethesauce.Asquirtoflemonorlimejuicewillsuffice.

Serves4

Sauce1/2cupGreekyogurt1/2cupsourcream2garliccloves,crushed2tbsplemonjuice3tbspoliveoil1/2tspsalt1/2cupparsleyleaves,chopped2cupscilantroleaves,chopped

3leeks(1lbintotal,trimmedweight)5shallots,finelychopped2/3cupoliveoil1freshredchile,seededandsliced1/2cupparsley(leavesandfinestalks),finely

chopped3/4tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcumin1/4tspgroundturmeric1/4tspgroundcinnamon1tspsugar1/2tspsalt1eggwhite3/4cupplus1tbspself-risingflour1tbspbakingpowder1egg2/3cupmilk41/2tbspunsaltedbutter,meltedTomakethesauce.Blitzalltheingredientstogetherinafoodprocessoruntilauniformgreen.Setasideforlater.

Cuttheleeksintoscant1-inch-thickslices;rinseanddraindry.Sautétheleeksandshallotsinapanwithhalftheoilonmediumheatforabout15minutes,oruntilsoft.Transfertoalargebowlandaddthechile,parsley,spices,sugarandsalt.Allowtocooldown.

Whisktheeggwhitetosoftpeaksandfolditintothevegetables.Inanotherbowlmix together the flour, baking powder, whole egg, milk and butter to form abatter.Gentlymixitintotheeggwhiteandvegetablemixture.

Put 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil in a large frying pan and place over amediumheat.Spoonabouthalf of thevegetablemixture into thepan tomakefourlargefritters.Frythemfor2to3minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenandcrisp. Remove to paper towels and keep warm. Continue making the fritters,addingmore oil as needed.You should end upwith about eight large fritters.Servewarm,withthesauceonthesideordrizzledover.

Caramelizedgarlictart

“I think this is the most delicious recipe in the world!” wrote Claudine aftertryingitoutforme.WhatelsecanIadd?

Serves8

13ozpuffpastry3mediumheadsofgarlic,clovesseparatedandpeeled1tbspoliveoil1tspbalsamicvinegar1cupwater3/4tbspsugar1tspchoppedrosemary1tspchoppedthyme,plusafewwholesprigstofinishsalt41/2 oz soft, creamy goat cheese (such as chèvre) 41/2 oz hard, mature goat

cheese(suchasgoatgouda)2eggs61/2tbspheavycream61/2tbspcrèmefraîcheblackpepper

Havereadyashallow,loose-bottomed,11-inchflutedtartpan.Rolloutthepuffpastry into a circle thatwill line the bottom and sides of the pan, plus a littleextra.Line thepanwith thepastry.Placea largecircleofwaxedpaperon thebottomandfillupwithpieweightsordriedbeans.Leavetorestinthefridgeforabout20minutes.

Preheattheovento350°F.Placethetartshellintheovenandblindbakefor20minutes.Removetheweightsandpaper,thenbakefor5to10minutesmore,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Setaside.Leavetheovenon.

While the tartshell isbaking,make thecaramelizedgarlic.Put thecloves inasmallsaucepanandcoverwithplentyofwater.Bringtoasimmerandblanchfor3minutes,thendrainwell.Drythesaucepan,returntheclovestoitandaddtheolive oil. Fry the garlic cloves on high heat for 2minutes. Add the balsamicvinegarandwaterandbringtotheboil,thensimmergentlyfor10minutes.Addthesugar,rosemary,choppedthymeand1/4 teaspoonsalt.Continuesimmeringonamediumflamefor10minutes,oruntilmostoftheliquidhasevaporatedand

thegarlicclovesarecoatedinadarkcaramelsyrup.Setaside.

Toassemblethetart,breakbothtypesofgoatcheeseintopiecesandscatter inthetartshell.Spoonthegarlicclovesandsyrupevenlyoverthecheese.Inajugwhisktogethertheeggs,cream,crèmefraîche,1/2teaspoonsaltandsomeblackpepper.Pour this custardover the tart filling to fill thegaps,making sure thatyoucanstillseethegarlicandcheeseoverthesurface.

Reducetheoventemperatureto325°Fandplacethetartinside.Bakefor35to45minutes,oruntilthetartfillinghassetandthetopisgoldenbrown.Removefrom theoven and leave to cool a little.Then takeout of pan, trim thepastryedge if needed, lay a few sprigs of thyme on top and serve warm (it reheatswell!)withacrispsalad.

Stuffedonions

This is anunusual yet delectablemain coursewhere the flavorful filling takescenterstage.Considercreatingavariationbyspooningoveralighttomatosaucebeforebakingandsprinklingwithcheesetowardtheend.ServetheonionswarmwithaLettuceSalad.Idesperatelyurgeyounottowastetheflavoredstockandonioncores;cookthemtogethertomakeabaseforaheartyonionsoup.

Serves4

butterforgreasingthedish21/4cupsvegetablestock11/2cupswhitewine4largeonions3smalltomatoes22/3cupsfreshwhitebreadcrumbs31/4ozfeta,crumbled11/3cupsparsleyleaves(looselypacked),finelychopped

3tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish2garliccloves,crushed3greenonions,thinlysliced3/4tspsaltblackpepper

Preheattheovento350°F.Havereadyasmallbutteredovenproofdish.

Place the stock and white wine in a medium saucepan and bring to the boil.Meanwhile, trim 1/4 inch off the top and bottom of the onions. Cut themlengthways in half and remove the brown skin. Gently remove most of theinsides (keep these for anotheruse), retaining twoor threeof theouter layers.Carefully separate the outer layers from each other and place them in thesimmeringstock,afewatatime.Cookfor3to4minutes,oruntil justtender.Drainwellandcoolslightly.Keepthestock.

Useacoarsecheesegratertogratethetomatoes(you’llbeleftwithmostoftheskin inyourhand;discard it).Place thegrated tomato ina largebowlandaddthe breadcrumbs, feta, parsley, olive oil, garlic, green onions, salt and somepepper.

Filleachonionlayergenerouslywithstuffing.Pullthesidestogethersoyouendup with a fat cigar shape. Place the stuffed onions, seam-side down, in thebuttereddishandpouroverabout1/3cupofthereservedstock,justtocoverthebottomof thedish.Bakefor45 to50minutes,oruntil theonionsaresoftandlightly colored and the stuffing is bubbling; add more stock if they drycompletely before the end of the cooking process. Drizzle with oil and servewarm.

Friedleeks

Thesharpandsweetpickledredpeppersusedherearethesortofthingyoucanalwayskeepinthefridge,readytoaddtosalads,roastedvegetablesorsalsasforfish.

Serves4asastarter

1redbellpepper6tbspsugar1cupwater61/2tbspcidervinegar10pinkpeppercorns1/2tspcorianderseeds3cardamompods,crushedsalt5mediumleeks3/4cupcrèmefraîche11/2tbspchoppedcapers2greenonions,slicedthinlyatan

angle,plusextratogarnish1tbsplemonjuice11/2tbspoliveoilwhitepepper2/3cupsunfloweroil1/2cuppanko1egg,beaten

Cleanthepepperandcut it into1/4-inch-thickstrips.Placeinasmallsaucepanandaddthesugar,water,vinegar,peppercorns,corianderseeds,cardamomandsome salt. Bring to the boil, then simmer for about 20 minutes, or until thepepperiscooked.Setasidetocooldown.

Meanwhile, remove and discard the hard green leaves from the leeks and cutthem into roughly 1-inch-long segments. Cook in boiling salted water for 15minutes,oruntilsemi-soft.Drainandletdry.

Whileyouwaitforthevegetables,stirtogetherthecrèmefraîche,capers,greenonions, lemon juice, olive oil and some salt and pepper. Taste and adjust theseasoning.

Heatupthesunfloweroilinamediumsaucepan.Placethepankoandeggintwosmallseparateplatesandseasonwithsalt.Takethecookedleeksandrollthemfirst in the egg and then inpanko to coat all over.Fry them in thehot oil forabout30secondsoneachside;dothisinafewbatchessoyoudon’tcrowdtheminthepan.Oncetheyareniceandgolden,transfertheleekstopapertowels.

Serveaboutfivechunksofhotleeksperportion,toppedwithagooddollopofthecrèmefraîchesauce.Liftthestripsofredpepperoutofthepan,shakeawaymost of the syrup and place them over the leeks (the coriander seeds andpeppercornsarefinetoo).Garnishwithgreenonionandserveatonce.

Blackpeppertofu

Youwilldefinitelysurpriseyourselfwith thisone. It isanextremelydeliciousdishthat’squickandstraight-forwardtomake,butlooksasifit’sbeenpreparedatatopChineserestaurant.Itisfiery,bothfromthechilesandtheblackpepper;you canmoderate this by reducing their quantity a little.However, thewholepointisspicinesssodon’tgotoofar.

Serves4

13/4lbsfirmtofuvegetableoilforfryingcornstarchtodustthetofu11tbspbutter12 small shallots (12 oz in total), thinly sliced 8 fresh red chiles (fairlymild

ones),thinlysliced12garliccloves,crushed3tbspchoppedfreshginger3tbspsweetsoysauce(kecapmanis)3tbsplightsoysauce4tspdarksoysauce2tbspsugar5 tbsp coarsely crushed black peppercorns (use amortar and pestle or a spice

grinder)16smallandthingreenonions,cutinto11/4-inchsegmentsStartwiththetofu.Pourenoughoil intoa largefryingpanorwoktocome1/4inchupthesidesandheat.Cutthetofuintolargecubes,about1x1inch.Tosstheminsomecornstarchandshakeofftheexcess,thenaddtothehotoil.(You’llneedtofrythetofupiecesinafewbatchessotheydon’tstewinthepan.)Fry,turning themaround as yougo, until they are golden all over andhave a thincrust.Astheyarecooked,transferthemontopapertowels.

Remove theoil andany sediment from thepan, thenput thebutter inside andmeltit.Addtheshallots,chiles,garlicandginger.Sautéonlowtomediumheatfor about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the ingredients have turnedshinyandaretotallysoft.Next,addthesoysaucesandsugarandstir,thenaddthecrushedblackpepper.

Addthe tofu towarmitup in thesauceforaboutaminute.Finally,stir in the

greenonions.Servehot,withsteamedrice.

Garlicsoupandharissa

Thissoupissweetlydeliciousandrelativelyeasytoprepare,ifyoudon’tmindabit of garlic peeling. The harissa adds work but you could substitute a goodcommercialvariety.Still, thisonemakesafantasticcondimenttokeepinyourfridgeandaddtoroastedeggplant,vegetablestewsandmanyriceandcouscousdishes.

Serves4

Harissa1redbellpepper1/4tspcorianderseeds1/4tspcuminseeds1/4tspcarawayseeds1/2tbspoliveoil

1smallredonion,roughlychopped3garliccloves,roughlychopped2medium-hotfreshredchiles,seededandroughlychopped1/2tbsptomatopaste

2tbsplemonjuice2to3tspcoarseseasalt

4mediumshallots,finelychopped3celerystalks,finelydiced3tbspbutter2tbspoliveoil25mediumgarliccloves,finelysliced2tspchoppedfreshginger1tspfinelychoppedthyme1cupwhitewinegenerouspinchofsaffronthreads4bayleaves1 quart good-quality vegetable stock 1/2 tsp coarse sea salt 4 tbsp roughly

choppedparsleyroughlychoppedcilantroGreekyogurt(optional)

Tomaketheharissa.Preheatthegrilltohigh,thengrillthebellpepperfor15to20minutes,oruntilblackenedallover.Transfertoabowl,coveritwithplastic

wrapandallowtocool.Thenpeelthepepperanddiscarditsseeds.

Place a frying pan on lowheat and lightly dry-roast the coriander, cumin andcarawayseedsfor2minutes.Removethemtoamortaranduseapestletogrindtoapowder.

Addtheoliveoiltothefryingpanandheat,thenfrytheonion,garlicandchilesonmediumheatfor6to8minutes,toadarksmokycolor.Coolslightly,thentipinto a blender or a food processor. Add the remaining harissa ingredients,including the grilled pepper and ground spices, and blitz together to make apaste.Setaside.

Gentlyfrytheshallotsandcelerywiththebutterandoilforabout10minutes,oruntilsoftandtranslucent.Addthegarlicandcookforafurther5minutes.Stirinthegingerandthyme.Pourinthewineandleavetosimmerforafewminutes,thenaddthesaffron,bayleaves,stockandsalt.Simmerforabout10minutes.

Removethebayleavesandaddtheparsley.Blitzwithanimmersionblender(orregular blender) or a food processor.Do not blend to a complete purée; keepsomebitsofvegetablefortexture.

Dividethesoupamongshallowbowls.Swirlinsomeharissaandsprinklewithchoppedcilantro.FinishwithadollopofGreekyogurt,ifyoulike.

Mushrooms

Mushroomragoutwithpoachedduckegg

Hereismyidealsolaceforagloomywinternight,evenwithouttheeggifyouwanttokeepitsimpler.Ifyoucangetfreshporcini(alsocalledceps),available

during the autumnmonths, grab themwith both hands and use as part of themixedfreshmushroomshere.

Serves4

1/2ozdriedporcinimushrooms21/2cupswater11/4lbsmixedfreshmushrooms(wildorcultivated)3/4lbsourdoughbread,crustsremoved61/2tbspoliveoil2garliccloves,crushed

1mediumonion,sliced1mediumcarrot,peeledandsliced3celerystalks,sliced1/2cupwhitewine3thymesprigssalt4duckeggsvinegarforpoaching1/2cupsourcream2tbspchoppedtarragon2tbspchoppedparsleyblackpeppertruffleoil(oroliveoilifyouprefer)

Before you start, put the dried porcini to soak in 1 cup of the water for 30minutes.Brushyourfreshmushroomstoremoveanysoil,thencutuplargeonesor divide into clusters so youhave a selectionofwholemushrooms and largechunks.Preheattheovento400°F.

Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes. Toss themwith 2 tablespoons of the oil, thegarlicandsalt.Spreadoutonabakingsheetandtoastintheovenfor15minutes,oruntilbrown.

Next,pour1tablespoonofoilintoamedium-sizedheavypanandheatwellovermedium-high heat. Add some of the fresh mushrooms and leave for 1 to 2minutes,withoutstirring.Don’tcrowdthemushroomsin thepan.Oncelightlybrowned,turnthemovertocookforanotherminute.Removefromthepanandcontinuewithmorebatches,addingoilasneeded.Onceallthemushroomshavebeen removed from the pan, add another tablespoon of oil and throw in the

onion,carrotandcelery.Sautéonmediumheatfor5minutes,withoutbrowning.Addthewineandletitbubbleawayforaminute.

Lift theporcinioutof thesoaking liquid,squeezingout theexcess liquid.Addthe soaking liquid to the pan, leaving behind any grit in the bowl. Add theremaining11/2cupsofwater,thethymeandalittlesalt,thensimmergentlyforabout 20minutes, or until you are leftwith about 1 cup of liquid. Strain thisstockanddiscardthevegetables;returnthestocktothepanandsetitaside.

Topoachtheeggs,fillashallowsaucepanwithenoughwaterforawholeeggtocookin.Addasplashofvinegarandbringtoarapidboil.Carefullybreakaneggintoasmallcupandgentlypour it intotheboilingwater.Immediatelyremovethepanfromtheheatandsetitaside.After6minutestheeggshouldbepoachedtoperfection.Liftitoutofthepanandintoabowlofwarmwater.Oncealltheeggsaredone,drythemonpapertowels.

While you are poaching the final egg, heat up the stock and add all themushrooms, the sour cream, most of the chopped herbs (reserving some togarnish)andsaltandpepper to taste.Assoonas themushroomsarehot,placeaboutfourcroutonsineachservingdishandtopwithmushrooms.Addanegg,theremainingherbs,adrizzleoftruffleoilandsomeblackpepper.

Bánhxèo

In2007IvisitedHanoiwithmyfriend,AlexMeitlis,andfoundmyselfsquattinginthedingiestoffamily-runstreetkitchens,experiencingthebestfoodI’veevertasted.Thefreshnessofthevegetablesandherbswasmind-blowing.

Here’s a vegetarian adaptation of a traditional Vietnamese pancake, normallyconsistingof fattyporkandprawns. Iaddedsweetsoy to thedippingsauce tomakeupforomittingtheubiquitousVietnamesefishsauce,nuocmam.

Serves4

11/3cupsriceflour1smallegg1/2tspsalt1tspgroundturmeric13/4cupscannedcoconutmilkalittlebitofsunfloweroil

Sauce21/2tbsplimejuice11/2tbsptoastedsesameoil1tbspbrownsugar1tbspricewinevinegar1tbspsweetsoysauce(kecapmanis)2tspgratedfreshginger1freshredchile,finelychopped1garlicclove,crushed1/2tspsaltFilling1largecarrot,peeled1daikonradish,peeled4greenonions1freshgreenchile11/2cupssnowpeas1cuplooselypackedcilantroleaves2/3cuplooselypackedThaibasilleaves1/4cuplooselypackedmintleaves1cupmungbeansprouts1cupenokimushrooms

Blend the rice flour, egg, salt and turmeric in a large bowl. Slowly add thecoconut milk, whisking well to avoid any lumps. You want to get a thinnishpancakebatterwith theconsistencyof lightcream.Addmorecoconutmilkorwater,ifnecessary(youmayneedtoaddsomemorelater,whenyouarecookingthepancakes,becausethebattertendstothicken).Setasidetorest.

Tomakethesauce.Justwhisktogetheralltheingredients,adjustingtheamountofchiletoyourliking.

Tomakethefilling.Shredthecarrotanddaikonthinly.Slicethegreenonionsonanangle,andcut thegreenchileandsnowpeas into long, thinstrips.Pick theherbleaves.Setallthepreparedvegetablesandherbsasidewiththesproutsandmushrooms.

Whenyouarereadytoservethepancakes,heatupalargenon-stickfryingpanthat is roughly9 inches indiameter,making sure itdoesn’tget extremelyhot.Addatinyamountofsunfloweroil.

Pourinaboutone-quarterofthebatterandswirlaroundtocoatthebottomofthepan.Theedgesofthepancakecanbethinnerthanthecenterandturncrisp,oritcan all have the same thickness like a regular pancake.Once the underside isgoldenbrown,turnthepancakeoverandcooktheotherside.Removefromthepanandkeepwarmwhileyoumaketheotherthreepancakes.

Placeawarmpancakeoneachservingplateandpilevegetablesandherbsoveronehalfofit.Drizzlethevegetableswithsomesauceandfoldtheotherhalfofthe pancake over them. Spoon some more sauce on top and serve, with anyremainingsauceontheside.

StuffedportobellowithmeltingTaleggio

I can easily imagine someonewriting a Ph.D. thesis on different cheeses andhowtheymelt.Hereareafewofmymodestobservations:youngvarieties,suchasfontinaormozzarella,meltatarelativelylowtemperatureandthereforedon’t“break” but stay creamy and smooth; other, more mature cheeses, such asGruyèreandsomecheddars,arewonderfullypungentbuttendtosplitandturngritty. This is why I often choose Taleggio, a wonderfully soft cow’s milkvarietyfromnorthernItaly.Ithasthestrongaromaofamaturecheeseandmeltsevenlyandsmoothly.

Serves4asastarter

4largeportobellos(oranothersimilarmushroom),stalksremoved6tbspoliveoil

saltandblackpepper1smallonion,finelydiced1celerystalk,finelydiced2cupsfinelychoppedsun-driedtomatoes2garliccloves,crushed1/2cupgratedParmesan1tbspchoppedtarragonleaves4tbspcoarselyshreddedbasilleaves31/2ozTaleggio,slicedPreheattheovento350°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Placethemushrooms, stalk-sideup,on thebaking sheet anddrizzleover a littleoil andsomesaltandpepper.Putintotheovenandroastforabout15minutes,oruntilthemushroomsbegintosoften.

Meanwhile,heatup2 tablespoonsof theoil ina sautépan,add theonionandceleryandcookonlowheatfor5to10minutes,oruntilthevegetablesaresoftbut not brown; stir every few minutes during cooking. Add the sun-driedtomatoesandgarlicandcookforafewmoreminutes.Removefromtheheatandleavetocooldown.

Once cool, add the Parmesan, tarragon and half the basil to the mixture and

seasonwithpepper. (Youcanadda littlebitof saltbutnot toomuchbecauseTaleggioisverysalty.)PileupthefillingonthewholemushroomsandtopwiththeTaleggioslices.Returntotheovenandcookforabout10minutes,oruntilthecheesemeltsandthemushroomsaretender.

Transferthemushroomstoservingplatesanddrizzlewithoil.Garnishwiththeremainingbasilandserverightaway,withagreensalad.

Marinatedmushroomswithwalnutandtahiniyogurt

Thisdishcanworkinendlesscontexts:withafewelegantendiveleavesstirredthrough,itwillmakeasubstantialvegetarianmaincourse;asitisyoucanputitin a Tupperware container and take it on a picnic; or offer it alongside othersaladsaspartofasmartspringbuffet.

Shimeji are the clustered small mushrooms that you often get in “exotic”selections.

Serves4

1/3cupoliveoil1tbspwhitewinevinegar1tbspmaplesyrupjuiceof2mediumlemonssaltandblackpepper3cupsslicedbuttonmushrooms2cupsbeechmushrooms,largebaseremoved1/2cupGreekyogurt21/2tbsptahini1smallgarlicclove,crushed3cupsshelledfavabeans(frozenorfresh)2/3cupwalnuts,toastedandroughly

chopped1/2tspgroundcumin1tbspchoppeddill1tbspchoppedoregano

Startbymarinatingthemushrooms.Whisktogethertheoliveoil,vinegar,maplesyrup,halfthelemonjuice,about1/2teaspoonsaltandsomeblackpepper.Pourthisoverthemixedmushroomsinalargebowlandtosswell,makingsureallthemushroomsarecoated.Leavethemtomarinateforanhour.

While you wait, mix together in a small bowl the yogurt, tahini, garlic,remaininglemonjuiceand1/2teaspoonsalt.Useaforkorasmallwhisktowhipeverything together toa lightpaste. (Youcanrefrigerate thissauce forup toaday.)Next,pourplentyofboilingwateroverthefavabeansinabowlandleavefora

minute,thendrainwellandleavetocooldown.Nowsqueezeeachbeangentlytoremovetheskinanddiscardit (ifyoudon’tmindtheskinyoucanskipthisstage).

Addthebeans,walnutsandcumintothemarinatedmushroomsandstirtomix.Tasteandadjust theseasoning.Serve themushrooms insmallbowlsorplates,eachportiontoppedwithadollopofthicktahinisauceandsprinkledwithherbs.

Mushroomlasagne

IttooktheaidofCook’sIllustrated,amagazineforfoodnerdslikeme,toenableme tocrack thesecret foraperfectcheesy lasagne.Serve thiswithanarugulaandtomatosalad.

Serves6-8

11/4ozdriedporcinimushrooms13/4cupslukewarmwater5tbspunsaltedbutter1tbspthymeleaves13/4lbsmixedfreshmushrooms,slicediflarge2tbspchoppedtarragon4tbspchoppedparsleysaltandwhitepepper5tbspunsaltedbutter1smallshallot,choppedscant1/2cupall-purposeflour21/3cupsmilk13flozricotta1largeegg5ozfeta,crumbled6ozGruyère,grated1lbdriedspinachlasagne5ozfontinacheese(ormozzarella),grated1/2cupgratedParmesanPreheattheovento350°F.Covertheporciniwiththelukewarmwaterandleavetosoakfor5minutes.Draininasievesetoverabowl,squeezingthemushroomstoremovealltheliquid;reservetheliquid.

Meltthebutterinalargeheavy-basedsaucepan.Whenfoamingaddthethyme,porciniandfreshmushrooms.Cookfor4minutes,oruntilthemushroomshavesoftenedandexudedsomeoftheirliquid,stirringoccasionally.Offtheheat,stirin the tarragon, parsley and some salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl and setaside.

Usethesamepantomakeabéchamel.Putthebutterandshallotinthepanandcookonmediumheat foraboutaminute.Addtheflourandcontinuecooking,stirring constantly, for 2minutes; themixwill turn into a paste but shouldn’tcolormuch.Graduallywhiskinthemilkandporcinisoakingliquid,leavinganygrit in the bowl. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and continue whisking until boiling.Simmeronlowheat,stirringconstantly,forabout10minutes,oruntilthesauceisthickish.Removefromtheheat.

Inasmallbowlmixtogether thericottaandegg, thenfold in3 tablespoonsofthe béchamel and the feta.Add theGruyère to the remaining béchamel in thepanandstirwelltogetyourmainsauce.

Pourboilingwateroverthelasagnenoodles(dothisafewatatimesotheydon’tsticktogether)andsoakfor2minutes;removeanddrythemonateatowel.

To assemble the lasagne, pour one-fifth of the sauce over the bottom of anovenproofdishthatisabout10x14inches.Coverwithlasagnenoodles.Spreadone-quarterofthericottamixontop,scatteroverone-quarterofthemushroomsandsprinklewithone-quarterofthefontina.Makethreemorelayersinthesameway,thenfinishwithalayerofpastacoveredwithsauce.

SprinkletheParmesanontopandcoverlooselywithfoil(don’tlayitdirectlyonthesurfaceof the lasagne).Bakefor40minutes,oruntil thesauceisbubblingaroundthesides.Liftoffthefoilandbakeforafurther10minutes,oruntilthetopturnsgolden.Removefromtheovenandleavetorestfor10minutesbeforeserving.

Wildmushroomparcel

Cooking in a parcel, albeit a tad old-fashioned, is actually both simple andexciting. There is always an element of suspensewhen diners open their ownlittle packet to a whiff of aromatic steam. Loads of herbs and tender babyvegetablesaretheperfectingredientsforthismethod,asaremanykindsoffish.

Serve themushroomswith abowlof steamedwhite rice sprinkledwith saltedandtoastedpinenutsorpumpkinseeds.

Serves4

31/2 cups mixed wild mushrooms 31/2 cups baby button mushrooms 5 babypotatoes,cooked(skinon)

4garliccloves,crushed8tbspchoppedchervil4tbspchoppedtarragon4tbspoliveoil8tbspheavycream2tbspRicard,Pernodorotheranise-flavoredliquorsaltandblackpepper

Preheattheovento400°F.Cutfoursquaresheetsofparchmentpaper14incheslongandwide.

Wipethemushroomscleanusingawetclothoralittlebrush.Leavethemwholeorcutthemintolargepieces,dependingontheirsize.Cutthepotatoesinto3/8-inch-thickslices.

Inalargebowl,gentlytosstogetheralloftheingredientsusingyourhands.Takecarenottobreakthemushrooms.Tasteandadjusttheamountofsaltandpepper.

Divide the mix between the paper sheets. Lift the edges and scrunch themtogether to create tight bundles, then secure with ovenproof string. Lift theparcelsontoabakingsheet.

Place in the oven to cook for 17 minutes. Take out and leave to settle for 1

minute. Serve the parcels sealed, allowing the diners to open them upthemselves.

ZucchiniandOtherSquashes

Halloweensoufflés

TointroducethisdishIrepriseafamoussupermarket’sslogan:“Trysomethingscarytoday.”ByscaryImeanasoufflé,whichissomanypeople’sno-gozone.

I’vecalledthemHalloweensoufflésastheyaremadewithpumpkin.It’sbestnottouseoneofthosehugepumpkinsdestinedtobejack-o’-lanternsastheirfleshcanbewatery.

The soufflé base mixture, minus the egg whites, can be prepared a day inadvance and kept in the fridge. Just bring it back to room temperature beforefinishing the recipe. These soufflés look particularly striking in shallow soupbowls.Ifyouhaveanovenproofset,tryusingthem.

Serves6inramekinsasastarter,or4insoupbowls

one3/4-lbpumpkin(skinon)oliveoil3/4tspsoftbrownsugarsalt1/4 cup whole hazelnuts (skin on) 4 tbsp unsalted butter; 2 tbsp, melted, for

greasing21/2tbspall-purposeflour1cupplus1tbspmilk5eggs,separated,plusoneeggwhite1/4tspchileflakes1tbspchoppedmarjoram21/2ozstronggoatcheese,grated1/3cupsourcream2tbspchoppedchives

Preheat the oven to 350°F.Depending on the size of the pumpkin, cut it intoquarters or eighths. Scoop out and discard the seeds and fibers. Place thepumpkin pieces skin-side down in a shallow roasting tin.Drizzle over a littleoliveoilandsprinklewith thebrownsugarand1/2 teaspoonsalt.Roast for45minutes,oruntilthefleshistender.Leavetocoolforawhile,thenscoopouttheflesh and blitz it to a purée or mash well. You need exactly 41/4 oz for thesoufflés.

Turnuptheovento400°Fandplaceabakingsheetonthetopshelf.Thiswillhelpwiththerisingwhenthesoufflésaresetonit.Puttheramekinsorbowlsinthefridgetochillwell.

Blitz the hazelnuts in a blender or food processor until powdery. Brush the

chilledramekinsgenerouslywiththemeltedbutter,thenputinthehazelnutsandturn the dishes to coat the bottom and sides. Tip out the excess nuts and setaside.

Meltthe2tbspbutterinalargesaucepanoveramediumheat.Stirintheflourand cook for aminute.Gradually add themilk, stirringwith awooden spoonuntilthesauceisthickandstartstobubble.Inalargebowlmixtogetherthe41/4ozpumpkin,eggyolks,chileflakes,marjoram,goatcheeseand3/4teaspoonsalt.Addthesauceandstiruntilsmooth.

Place the eggwhites in a large, clean, stainless steel or glass bowl andwhiskuntiltheyarestiffbutnotdry.Addalittleoftheeggwhitestothepumpkinbaseandstir to loosen, thenfold in theremainingeggwhiteswitha large,stainlesssteelspoon,takingcaretoretainasmuchairaspossible.

Filltheramekinsorbowlsupto3/8inchfromthetop.Placethesoufflésintheoven,ontheheatedbakingsheet,andbakefor10to14minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandrisenwell.

While they are in the oven, mix the sour cream with the chives. Serve thesoufflésatonce,withthesourcreamontheside.

Roastedbutternutsquashwithsweetspices,limeandgreenchile

ThisdishisthemostrefreshingwayIcanthinkoftostartameal.

Serves4-6

2limesMaldonseasalt4tablespoonsoliveoil1mediumbutternutsquash(about2lbs)2tbspcardamompods

1tspgroundallspice1/2cupGreekyogurt21/2tbsptahini1tbsplimejuice1greenchile,thinlysliced2/3cuppickedcilantroleaves

Preheattheovento400°F.Trimoffthelimes’topsandbasesusingasmallsharpknife.Standeachlimeonachoppingboardandcutdownthesidesofthefruit,followingitsnaturalcurves,toremovetheskinandwhitepith.Quarterthelimesfrom top tobottom,andcuteachquarter into thin slices, about1/8 inch thick.Placetheminasmallbowl,sprinklewithalittlesalt,drizzlewith1tablespoonoftheoliveoil,stirandsetaside.

Next, cut the squash in half lengthways, scoop out the seeds and discard.Cuteachhalf, top tobottom, into3/8-inch-thickslicesand lay themoutona largebakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaper.

Placethecardamompodsinamortarandworkwithapestletogettheseedsoutofthepods.Discardthepodsandworktheseedstoaroughpowder.Transfertoasmallbowl,add theallspiceand theremaining3 tablespoonsofoil,stirwelland brush thismixture over the butternut slices. Sprinkle over a little salt andplaceintheovenfor15minutesoruntiltenderwhentestedwiththepointofaknife.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.Peelofftheskin,orleaveonifyouprefer.

Meanwhile,whisktogethertheyogurt,tahini,limejuice,2tablespoonsofwaterand a pinchof salt.The sauce should be thick but runny enough to pour; addmorewaterifnecessary.

Toserve,arrangethecooledbutternutslicesonaservingplatteranddrizzlewiththeyogurtsauce.Spoonoverthelimeslicesandtheirjuicesandscatterthechileslicesoverthetop.Garnishwiththecilantroandserve.

“Mixedgrill”withparsleyoil

Char-grillingseasonalvegetablesthewayweoftendoatOttolenghimakesthemtastealmostmeatyduetothestrongaromasofsmokeandthemanyburntbits.Ijust love it. You don’t have to stick to my choice of vegetables. There arecountless alternatives, such as asparagus, rutabaga, carrot, cauliflower, daikon,beetsandsoon.

Chooseasoftcheesethatwon’tdisintegrateormeltonthegrill,suchasGreekmanouriorCypriotanari(handleitwithcare).TheyareavailablefromMiddleEastern grocers (see Dates and Turkish Sheep’s Cheese, . Alternatively, usehalloumi,buteatitwhileit’sstillwarm,beforeitturnsrubbery.

Serves4generously

Parsleyoil3/4cupflat-leafparsley(leavesandsoftstalks)1/3cupoliveoil2garliccloves,crushed11/2tbsplemonjuicesaltandblackpepper

1mediumzucchini1kohlrabi1 small eggplant (or 1/2medium) 41/2 ozManouri or anari cheese 3 to 4 tbsp

oliveoil

Tomaketheparsleyoil.Blitztheparsleyinafoodprocessorwiththeoil,garlic,lemonjuiceandsomesaltandpepper.Youwillgetabrightgreen,runnysauce.Setitaside.

Place a heavy ridged griddle pan on a high heat and leave it until very hot.Preheattheovento375°F.

Cut the zucchini on a slight angle into 3/8-inch-thick slices. Peel the kohlrabiwithasharpknife;cutlengthwaysinhalf, theninto3/8-inch-thickslices.Slice

the eggplant 1/4 inch thick. Slice the cheese 1/4 inch thick. Keeping all theingredientsseparate,tosstheminalittlebitofoliveoil(theeggplantwillneedmuchmoreoilasitreadilysoaksitup)andsprinklewithsalt.

Char-grill thevegetablesandcheese, inbatches,until just tenderandwithnicecharmarksonbothsides-theywilltakebetween1minute(thezucchini)and6minutes(theeggplant).Usetongsandaspatulatoturnthem.Whendoneremovethemtoamixingbowl,keepingthecheeseseparate.Transfertheeggplanttothehotoventofinishcookingthrough,5to10minutesmore.

Pour theparsleyoilover thehotvegetablesandstirgently, then let themcooldowncompletelyoruntilwarm.

Before serving, taste and adjust the seasoning. Spread the vegetables and thecheeseonaplatterandserve.

Stuffedzucchini

This is a bastardized version of a Turkish original. Serve it cold, just abovefridgetemperature,withgoat’s-milkyogurt.

Serves6asastarter

1mediumonion,finelychopped1tbspoliveoil2/3cupshort-grainrice2tbspcurrants1tbsppinenuts2tbspchoppedparsley,plusextratogarnish1/2tspdriedmint1/2tspgroundallspice1/4tspgroundcinnamon1/4tspground

cloves3tbsplemonjuice3mediumzucchini3/4cupboilingwater11/2tbspsugar

saltandblackpepper

Sauté the onion in the oil until softened. Add the rice, currants, pine nuts,parsley,mint,spicesandhalfthelemonjuice.Continuecookingonlowheatfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.

Halve the zucchini lengthways along the center and use a spoon to scoop outsomeofthefleshtomake“boats.”Placetheminashallowsaucepanthatislargeenoughtoaccommodatethemsidebyside.Fillthemwiththericestuffing.Pourthe boiling water, remaining lemon juice, sugar and some salt around thezucchini.Theliquidshouldnotcomeashighasthefilling.

Simmer,covered,for30to40minutes,bastingthefillingoccasionallywiththecookingjuices.Thezucchiniarereadywhenthericeisaldenteandalmostallthejuiceshaveevaporated.Allowtocooldowncompletelybeforerefrigerating.Garnishwithchoppedparsleywhenserving.

Zucchiniandhazelnutsalad

Freshhazelnutsarewonderfullysweetandjuicy.Theyhaveashortseason,frommid-AugustuntilOctober,butareworthusingforthissaladifyoucangetthem.Try them first and decide for yourself whether you want to roast them as Idescribe,orkeepfresh.Withorwithouthazelnuts,thismakesthemostluxurioussummerstarter.

Serves4

1/3cupshelledhazelnuts7smallzucchini(13/4lbsintotal)4tbspoliveoilsaltandblackpepper

1tspbalsamicvinegar11/4cupsmixedgreenandpurplebasilleaves3oztop-qualityParmesan,broken

uporverythinlysliced2tsphazelnutoil

Preheattheovento300°F.Scatterthehazelnutsoverabakingsheetandroastfor12to15minutes,oruntilnicelybrowned.Letthemcooldownbeforechoppingroughlyorjustcrushinglightlywiththesideofalargeknife.

Placearidgedgriddlepanonahighheatandleaveitthereuntilit’salmostred-hot-atleast5minutes.

Meanwhile,trimtheendsofthezucchiniandcutthemonanangleinto3/8-inch-thickslices.Placetheminabowlandtosswithhalftheoliveoilandsomesaltandpepper.Placetheslicesinthehotgrillpanandchar-grillforabout2minutesoneachside; turn themoverusing tongs.Youwant togetdistinctcharmarkswithoutcookingthezucchinithrough.Transfertoamixingbowl,pouroverthebalsamicvinegar,tosstogetherandsetaside.

Oncethezucchinihavecooleddown,addtheremainingoliveoil,thebasilandhazelnuts.Mixlightly,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningaccordingly.Transferthe salad to a flat plate, incorporating the Parmesan, and drizzle over thehazelnutoil.

Crustedpumpkinwedgeswithsourcream

Youcanusemostvarietiesofpumpkinforthesesatisfyingwedges.ServewithGreenGazpachotomakealightandhealthy-feelingsupper.TheywillalsomakeaperfectveggiemaincourseforChristmasasthecrustisabitlikestuffing.

Serves4

11/2 lbs pumpkin (skin on) 1/2 cup grated Parmesan 3 tbsp dried whitebreadcrumbs

6tbspfinelychoppedparsley21/2tspfinelychoppedthymegratedzestof2largelemons2garliccloves,crushedsaltandwhitepepper1/4cupoliveoil1/2cupsourcream1tbspchoppeddill

Preheat the oven to 375°F.Cut the pumpkin into 3/8-inch-thick slices and laythemflat,cut-sidedown,onabakingsheetthathasbeenlinedwithparchmentpaper.

Mix together ina smallbowl theParmesan,breadcrumbs,parsley, thyme,halfthe lemon zest, the garlic, a tiny amount of salt (remember, the Parmesan issalty)andsomepepper.

Brush the pumpkin generouslywith olive oil and sprinklewith the crustmix,makingsuretheslicesarecoveredwithanice,thickcoating.Gentlypatthemixdownalittle.

Placethepanintheovenandroastforabout30minutes,oruntilthepumpkinistender: stick a little knife in one wedge to make sure it has softened and iscookedthrough.Ifthetoppingstartstodarkentoomuchduringcooking,coverlooselywithfoil.

Mix the sour creamwith the dill and some salt andpepper. Serve thewedgeswarm,sprinkledwiththeremaininglemonzest,withthesourcreamontheside.

Tamara’sratatouille

AlthoughIcall thisratatouille thenamedoesn’tdoitanyjustice,as this is themostmagnificentlydeliciousdish,nothinglikethedrabpileoflimpzucchiniI’dnormallyassociatewith thename.Iwasgiven therecipebyTamaraMeitlis,afriendandawisecookwhowouldtellyou-andIcan’tagreemorehere-togetallyourvegprepdonebeforeyoustartcooking.Ialsoadviseyoutofollowtheinstructionsclosely;overcookingthevegetablesisexactlythepointhere.

Serves4

7tbspsunfloweroil2smallonions,cutinto11/4-inchdice4garliccloves,sliced1/2freshgreenchile,thinlysliced2smallredpeppers,cutinto11/4-inchdice1/2

small butternut squash, peeled and cut into 11/4-inch dice 1 small parsnip,peeledandcutinto11/4-inchdice1cupFrenchbeans,trimmed

1mediumzucchini,cutinto11/4-inchdice1/2largeeggplant,peeledandcutinto11/4-inchdice1 small potato, peeled and cut into11/4-inchdice2mediumtomatoes,peeledandchopped

1/2tbspsugar1tbsptomatopastesaltandblackpepper1cupwaterchoppedcilantrotogarnish(optional)

Pourtwo-thirdsoftheoilintoalargeheavycasseroledishorapotandplaceonamedium-highheat.Addtheonionsandfryfor5minutes,stirringoccasionally.Next,stirinthegarlic,chileandredpeppersandfryforanother5minutes.Addthesquashandparsnipandcontinuefryingfor5minutes.

Usingaslottedspoon,liftthevegetablesoutofthepotandintoamediumbowl,leavingasmuchoftheoilinthepotaspossible.Topthisupwiththeremainingoil. Add the French beans, zucchini and eggplant to the hot oil and fry for 5minutes,stirringoccasionally.

Return the contents of the bowl to the pot. Add the potato, tomatoes, sugar,tomatopasteandplentyofsaltandpepper.Stirwell,thenpourinthewater,orjustenoughtohalf-cover thevegetables.Coverwitha lidand leave tosimmergentlyfor30minutes.Tastethevegetablesandaddmoresaltandpepper,ifyoulike.

Finally, preheat the oven to 400°F. Use a slotted spoon to gently lift thevegetablesfromthepotandintoalarge,deeproastingpantomakealayerabout11/4 inches thick.Pour the liquidover thevegetables andplace in theoven tocookfor30minutes.Atthispointallthevegetablesshouldbeverysoftandmostoftheliquidevaporated.Garnishwithcilanro,ifyoulike,andserve.

Peppers

Multi-vegetablepaella

AllmySpanishingredients,andlotsofotherdeliciouswonders,IgetatasmallSpanish supermarket, Garcia, on Portobello Road. This is a proper piece of

Spain incentralLondon,notonlyfor theproducebutalsofor the typical laid-backattitude. Ican’tbesurebutI think they takeasiesta in themiddleof theday.Calasparrariceandothergood-qualitySpanishproductscanbeboughtfromLaTienda.comintheUnitedStates.

Serves2generously

3tbspoliveoil1/2Spanishonion,finelychopped1smallredbellpepper,cutintostrips1small

yellow bell pepper, cut into strips 1/2 fennel bulb, cut into strips 2 garliccloves,crushed

2bayleaves1/4 tsp smoked paprika 1/2 tsp ground turmeric 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper 1 cup

Calasparra rice (or another short-grain paella rice) 61/2 tbsp good-qualitysherry1tspsaffronthreads

salt2cupsboilingvegetablestock3/4cupshelledfavabeans(freshorfrozen)12plumtomatoes,halved5 small grilled artichokes in oil from a jar, drained and quartered 15 pitted

kalamataolives,crushedorhalved2tbsproughlychoppedparsley4lemonwedges

Heatuptheoliveoilinapaellapan,oralargeshallowskillet,andgentlyfrytheonion for 5minutes. Add the bell peppers and fennel and continue to fry onmediumheat forabout6minutes,oruntil softandgolden.Add thegarlicandcookfor1minutemore.

Add the bay leaves, paprika, turmeric and cayenne to the vegetables and stirwell. Then add the rice and stir thoroughly for 2 minutes before adding thesherryandsaffron.Boildownforaminute,thenaddthestockand1/3teaspoonsalt. Reduce the heat to the minimum and simmer very gently for about 20minutes,oruntilmostoftheliquidhasbeenabsorbedbytherice.Donotcoverthepananddon’tstirthericeduringthecooking.

Meanwhile,pourplentyofboilingwateroverthefavabeansinabowlandleave

foraminute, thendrainwelland leave tocooldown.Nowsqueezeeachbeangentlytoremovetheskinanddiscardit.

Remove the paella pan from the heat. Taste and addmore salt if needed butwithout stirring the rice andvegetablesmuch.Scatter the tomatoes, artichokesandfavabeansoverthericeandcoverthepantightlywithfoil.Leavetorestfor10minutes.

Takeoffthefoil.Scattertheolivesontopofthepaellaandsprinklewithparsley.Servewithwedgesoflemon.

Marinatedpeppersaladwithpecorino

Crusty bread is essential to soakup the sweet dressing left after finishing thissalad. Serve as a starter, followed by a main course of Mushroom and HerbPolenta.

Serves2asastarter

1redbellpepper,quartered1yellowbellpepper,quartered4tbspoliveoilsalt1tbspbalsamicvinegar1tbspwater1/2tspmuscovadosugar2thymesprigs1garlicclove,thinlyslicedblackpepper2tbspflat-leafparsley,leavespicked2/3cupbasilleaves1cupwatercress2ozmaturepecorino,shaved1tbspdrainedcapers

Preheattheovento375°F.Tossthepepperswith1tablespoonoftheoilandalittlesalt.Scatterinaroastingpanandroastfor35minutes,oruntiltheysoftenandtakeonsomecolor.Removetoabowlandcoveritwithplasticwrap.Oncecooledtoroomtemperature,peelthepeppersandcutintothickstrips.

Whisk together 2 tablespoons of the oil, the balsamic vinegar, water, sugar,thyme, garlic, and some salt andpepper.Pour this over the peppers and leaveasideforatleastanhour,orovernightinthefridge.

Toassemblethesaladtosstogethertheherbs,watercress,drainedpepperstrips,pecorinoandcapers.Addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoiland1tablespoon(ormoreifyoulike)ofthemarinade.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasneeded.

Veryfulltart

AfantasticMediterraneanfeast,fulltothebrimwithroastedvegetables.

Serves4-6

1redbellpepper1yellowbellpepperabout6tbspoliveoil1mediumeggplant,cutinto2-inchdicesaltandblackpepper1smallsweetpotato,peeledandcutinto1-inchdice1smallzucchini,cutinto1-

inchdice2mediumonions,thinlysliced2bayleaves11ozpiecrustdough8thymesprigs,leavespicked1/3cupricotta41/4ozfeta7cherrytomatoes,halved2mediumeggs1cupheavycream

Preheattheovento450°F.Useasmallserratedknifetocutaroundthestemofthepeppersandliftitoutalongwiththeseeds.Shakethepepperstoremoveallthe remaining seeds; discard the stems and seeds. Place the two peppers in asmallovenproofdish,drizzlewithalittleoilandputonthetopshelfintheoven.

Mix the eggplant in a bowlwith 4 tablespoons of olive oil and some salt andpepper.Spreadinalargebakingpanandplaceintheovenontheshelfbeneaththepeppers.

After12minutesaddthesweetpotatodicetotheeggplantpanandstirgently.Returntotheoventoroastforanother12minutes.Thenaddthezucchinitothepan,stirandroastforafurther10to12minutes.Atthispointthepeppersshouldbebrownandtherestofthevegetablescooked.Removeallfromtheovenandreducethetemperatureto325°F.Coverthepepperswithfoilandcool,thenpeel

andtearroughlyintostrips.

Heat2tablespoonsofoliveoilinafryingpanonmediumheat.Sautétheonionswiththebayleavesandsomesaltfor25minutes,stirringoccasionally,untiltheyturnbrown,softandsweet.Removefromtheheat,discardthebayleavesandsetaside.

Lightlygreasea9-inchloose-bottomedtartpan.Rolloutthepiecrustdoughtoacircleroughly1/8inchthickandlargeenoughtolinethepan,plusextratohangovertherim.Carefullylinethepanwiththedough,pressingitintothecornersand leaving theexcesshangingover the topedge.Line thedoughwitha largesheet of parchmentpaper and fill itwithpieweights or driedbeans.Bake thecrustfor30minutes.Carefullyremovethepaperwiththeweights,thenbakefor10to15minutesmore,oruntilitturnsgoldenbrown.Removeandallowtocoolalittle.

Scatter thecookedonionover thebottomof thecrustand topwith the roastedvegetables,arrangingthemevenly.Scatterhalfthethymeleavesover.Next,dotthevegwithsmallchunksofbothcheesesandthenwiththetomatohalves,cut-sideup.

Whisktheeggsandcreaminasmallbowlwithsomesaltandpepper.Carefullypour thismixinto the tart; the toplayerof tomatoesandcheeseshouldremainexposed.Scatter theremainingthymeover the top.Place in theovenandbakefor35to45minutes,oruntilthefillingsetsandturnsgolden.Removeandallowtorestforatleast10minutesbeforereleasingthetartfromthepanandserving.

Scrambledsmokyduckeggsonsourdough

Thisbrilliantbrunchgrub reliesonchipotles - smoke-dried jalapeñopeppers -whichgive out a terrific smoky flavor that iswarm, earthy andnot too spicy.ThisMexicanstaplewilladddepthandpungency toall stew-typedishes.Youcanfindthematpenzeys.comandotheronlinesuppliersofchiles.

Serves4

4driedchipotlepeppers4thickslicessourdoughbreadlightlysaltedbutter2tbspoliveoil4garliccloves,sliced4greenonions,cutinto3/4-inch-longpieces4plumtomatoes,roughlychopped6duckeggs1tspMaldonseasaltblackpepperbunchofcilantroleaves,roughlychopped4heapedtbspsourcream

First,placethedriedchipotlesinabowl,coverwithboilingwaterandleavetosoakfor15minutes.Thendrain,chopintoroughchunksandsetaside.

Preheat the grill to high. Place the sourdough bread slices under the grill andtoastwellonbothsides.Spreadbuttergenerouslyonthetoastsandleavethemsomewherewarm.

Heatuptheoliveoilinalargefryingpan.Addthegarlicandgreenonionsandcook lightly on medium-high heat. When they begin to turn golden, add thechoppedtomatoesandchipotlesandcookforafurther1to2minutes.

Breaktheeggsintoabowlandbeatlightlywithafork,addingthesaltandsomepepper.Pourtheeggsintothefryingpanandcookfor20to30seconds,stirringconstantlytocreaterunnyscrambledeggs.

Put the toasts on serving plates, spoon the eggs on top and sprinkle over thecilantro.Serveimmediately,withthesourcreamontoporontheside.

Shakshuka

In a tiny alley inold Jaffa there’s a little restaurant serving food to customerssittingoutside at shared shabby tables.Theplace is heaving around lunchtimeand everybody,moreor less, is eating the same thing.Theplace is calledDr.Shakshuka, after its signature dish, and this is, obviously, what everybody’stuckinginto.

Shakshuka is aNorthAfrican dishwithmany variations. Some add preservedlemon, others feta and different herbs and spices. It is my ideal brunch fare!Cookandserveitinindividualpans,ifyouhavethem,orinoneverylargeone.Chunkywhitebreadonthesideisamust.

Serves4generously

1/2tspcuminseeds3/4cuplightoliveoilorvegetableoil2largeonions,sliced2redbellpeppers,cutinto3/4-inchstrips2yellowbellpeppers,cutinto3/4-inch

strips4tspmuscovadosugar2bayleaves6thymesprigs,leavespickedandchopped2tbspchoppedparsley2tbspchoppedcilantro,plusextratogarnish6ripetomatoes,roughlychopped1/2tspsaffronthreadspinchofcayennepeppersaltandblackpepperupto11/8cupswater8eggs

Inaverylargepandry-roastthecuminseedsonhighheatfor2minutes.Addtheoil andonions and sauté for 5minutes.Add thepeppers, sugar andherbs andcontinuecookingonhighheatfor5to10minutestogetanicecolor.

Addthetomatoes,saffron,cayenneandsomesaltandpepper.Reducetheheattolowandcookfor15minutes.Duringthecookingkeepaddingwatersothatthemixhasapastasauceconsistency.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.Itshouldbepotentandflavorful.(Youcanpreparethismixwellinadvance.)Remove the bay leaves, then divide the pepper mix among four deep fryingpans, each large enough to take a generous individual portion. Place them onmediumheattowarmup,thenmaketwogapsinthepeppermixineachpanandcarefullybreakaneggintoeachgap.Sprinklewithsaltandcoverthepanswithlids.Cookonavery(!)gentleheatfor10to12minutes,oruntiltheeggsarejustset.Sprinklewithcilantroandserve.

Brassicas

BroccoliandGorgonzolapie

Soon after I published this recipe, an annoyedGuardian reader sent a lettergrumblingabouttheamountoffatinthepie.Hiscommentsomehowmanaged

tounsettlemynormally-very-good-tempered self. Iguess itwas themoralistictone of the reproach, a condescending attempt by someone who, I suspect,doesn’treallylikefoodtotellotherswhattoeat.

Isay,enjoythispiefully!Isuggestservingitwarmoratroomtemperaturewithasimplesaladoftomatoandredonion,lightlydressedwithgarlic,oliveoilandwhitewinevinegar.

Serves6

1lbpuffpastry2broccoliheads(11/2lbsintotal),cutintoflorets2tbspbutter3to4leeks,trimmedandthinlysliced2/3cupheavycream1/3cupwater1/3cupchoppedchives1/3cupchoppedtarragon3tbspgrainymustard1tspsaltblackpepper7ozGorgonzola,cutintomediumchunks1egg,beaten

Preheattheovento400°F.Rollouttwo-thirdsofthepastryintoacirclethatis1/8inchthickandlargeenoughtolinea10-inchloose-bottomedtartpan.Linethe pan and trim off the excess pastry. Roll out the remaining pastry into athinnerdisc, largeenoughtocoverthesurfaceofthepie,andlayitonaplate.Placebothshellandlidinthefreezerfor10minutes.

Line thepastrywithparchmentpaperandfill itwithbakingbeans.Bakeblindfor 15 to 20 minutes, or until light brown. Remove the paper and beans andreturntotheoventobakeforabout5minutes,oruntilthebottomoftheshellisgolden.Leavetocooldown.

Whilethetartshellisbaking,preparethefilling.Cookthebroccolifloretsina

large pan of boiling water for about 2 minutes, or until tender but still firm.Draininacolander,rinsewellwithcoldwaterandleavetodry.

Meltthebutterinapanandfrytheleeksongentleheatfor10to15minutes,oruntilsoftbutnotcolored.Addthecream,water,chives,tarragon,mustard,saltandsomeblackpepper.Stirwellandremovefromtheheat.

Toassemble,spreadtheleekmixtureoverthebottomofthepastrycase.Scatterthebroccoliontopandgentlypressintotheleekmix.DotwiththeGorgonzola.Brushtherimofthetartcasewiththebeateneggandplacethepastrylidoverthefilling.Pressdownfirmlyaroundtheedgetoattachthelidtothecase.Trimoffanyofthelidthathangsovertheedge.

Glazethelidwithbeateneggandbakeforabout30minutes,oruntilthepastryisgoldenbrown.Allowtocoolalittlebeforeremovingfromthepan.

Broccoliniandsweetsesamesalad

Ingennogoma-ae,Japanesegreenbeanswithgroundsesameandmiso,isatruedelicacy.Iparticularlylikeitwhenblacksesameseedsareused;theygiveitanextra-luxuriouslook.TheJapanesedishistheinspirationforthissalad,althoughI must admit the use of tahini is a move no Japanese would ever dream ofmaking.ServedwiththeQuinoaSaladwithDriedPersianLimethisdishwouldmakeawonderfulsupper.

Serves4

Sauce4tbsptahini21/2tbspwater1smallgarlicclove,crushed1/2tsptamari1/2tbsphoney3/4tbspcidervinegar11/2tbspmirinpinchofsalt

3/4 lb (31/2 cups)broccoliniorpurple sproutingbroccoli 3/4 cupgreenbeans2

cupssnowpeas1tbsppeanutoil11/2cupscilantroleaves3tbsptoastedsesameseeds1tspnigellaseeds

To make the sauce.Whisk together all the ingredients in a bowl (reduce theamountofhoneyifyoudon’tlikeittoorich).Thesauceshouldbesmoothandthick but with a pourable consistency, so adjust the amount of water asnecessary.Tasteandaddmoresalt,ifyoulike.

Trim off any leaves from the broccolini. If the stalks are thick cut themlengthwaysintotwoorfour,soyouareleftwithlongandthinnerstalks,similarinsizetothegreenbeans.Trimoff thestalkendsofthebeansandsnowpeas,keepingthemseparate.

Bringamediumpanofunsaltedwatertotheboil.Blanchthegreenbeansfor3to5minutes,oruntiljusttenderbutstillcrunchy.Liftintoacolanderandrefreshunderrunningcoldwater;drainanddrywellwithateatowel.Inthesamewaterblanch thesnowpeasfor2minutes; refresh,drainanddry.Repeat theprocesswiththebroccoli,blanchingitfor2to3minutes.

Mixall thevegetables together inabowlwith theoil.Youcannowserve thesalad in two ways. For one, stir most of the cilantro leaves and sesame andnigellaseedsinwiththevegetablesandpileuponaservingdish;pourthesauceon topand finishwith the remainingcilantroandseeds.Alternatively,pile thevegetables on a serving plate, dottingwith cilantro leaves and sprinklingwithseedsasyougo;servethesauceinabowlontheside.

Stuffedcabbage

ThiscomfortingmaincoursemakesuseofacombinationcommontoArabandTurkish cuisines - it mixes rice and little vermicelli noodles to create anattractivetexturethatislightanddelicate.

Serves4

2tbspunsaltedbutter11/2ozvermicellinoodles(notthericevariety)7/8cupbasmatirice11/4cupswatersalt1mediumwhitecabbage1/3cuppinenuts,toastedandroughlychopped3/4cupricotta1/4cupgratedParmesan3tbspchoppedmint4tbspchoppedparsley,plusextratofinish3garliccloves,crushedblackpepper1cupdrywhitewine

6tbspvegetablestock11/2tbspsugar4tbspoliveoil

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over amediumheat.Break the vermicelliwithyourhandsinto3/4-inch-longpiecesandaddthemtothepan.Stirasyoufrythemfor1to2minutes.Takecare!Theycanburninasecond.Assoonasthenoodlesstartturninggoldenaddthericeandstirwell.Thenaddthewaterand1/2teaspoonsaltandbringto theboil.Turntheheatdownto theminimum,coverandcookfor20minutes.Removefromtheheatandleavetositfor10minutesbeforeremovingthelidandallowingtocooldownabit.

Whilethericeiscooking,cutthecabbageverticallyinhalf.Peelofftheleavesandblanchtheminboilingwaterfor6to8minutes,oruntilsemisoft.Youmayneed to do this in a few batches, depending on the size of your pan.(Alternatively, trimoff thebaseof thecabbage, thenput itwhole intoapotofboiling water; gradually remove the outer leaves as they cook.) Refresh theleavesundercoldrunningwater,drainandpatdry.

Preheattheovento350°F.Tothecookedriceaddthepinenuts,ricotta,halftheParmesan, theherbs, garlic and salt andpepper to taste;mixwellwith a fork.Use the cooked cabbage leaves tomake parcels ofwhatever size you choose,eachonecontainingagenerousamountof the rice filling.Alternatively,makerolls by placing some rice filling at the base of a rectangular-shaped piece ofcabbageandthenrollingitup;don’tworrythatthesidesremainopen.

Arrangethecabbageparcelsclosetogetherinanovenproofdish(ifyoucan’tfillup the dish completely use cabbage trimmings to fill in the gaps). Whisktogetherthewine,stock,sugar,oliveoilandplentyofsaltandpepper.Pourthisover the cabbage parcels and put the dish in the oven. Bake for about 40minutes, or until almost all the liquid is gone. Sprinkle with the remainingParmesan,returntotheovenandbakeforafurther10minutesforthecheesetomelt and turn golden. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 5minutesbeforeserving.

Smokyfrittata

Scamorza affumicata is an Italian cheese that melts fantastically well. Oftenlabelled “smoked mozzarella,” it is highly effective in adding depth andpungencytovegetariandishes.

Serves4-6

1smallcauliflower,cutintomediumflorets6eggs4tbspcrèmefraîche2tbspDijonmustard2tspsweetsmokedpaprika3tbspfinelychoppedchives5ozsmokedscamorza,grated(includingtheskinforextraflavor)2ozmature

Cheddar,gratedsaltandblackpepper2tbspoliveoil

Simmer the cauliflower in a large pan of boiling saltedwater for only 4 to 5minutes,oruntilsemi-cooked.Drainanddry.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Break the eggs into a large bowl. Add the crèmefraîche,mustardandpaprika andwhiskwell,making sure the eggsandcrèmefraîchearethoroughlyblended.Nowstirinthechivesandthree-quartersofthecheeses,andseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.

Heat up the olive oil in a large ovenproof frying pan. Fry the cauliflower forabout5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownononeside.Pourovertheeggmixtureanduseaforktospreadthecauliflowerevenlyinthepan.Cookonmediumheatforabout5minutes.

Scattertheremainingcheesesontop,thencarefullytransferthepantotheoven.Cookfor10to12minutes,oruntilthefrittataisset.

Removefromtheovenandletrestfor2to3minutesbeforecuttingintowedges.Eatimmediately,withapepperygreensalad.

Purplesproutingbroccoliwithricenoodles

Yes,there’salonglistofingredientshere,butIamreadytobeextra-kindandallow you to adapt the recipe, to use commercial Thai curry paste instead ofhavingtoschlepandgetalltheindividualitems.This“dry”variationofagreencurrymakesoneofthemostsatisfyingsupperdishesforthelatewinterandearlymonthsofspring.

Serves6

Spicepaste3/4-inch piece of galangal (or fresh ginger), peeled and chopped 11/2 medium

freshgreenchiles,seededandroughlychopped11/2lemongrassstalks,outerlayerandtoughendsremoved,roughlychopped1garlicclove,crushed

1/2shallot,roughlychopped3/4tbspcorianderseeds,finelyground1/2tspcuminseeds, finely ground grated zest and juice of 1/2 lime 1 small bunch ofcilantro(withstalksandroots)

2tbspvegetableoil

11/4lbspurplesproutingbroccoliorbroccolini1redonion,finelychopped1tbspvegetableoilsalt1tsppalmsugar7kaffirlimeleaves13/4cupscoconutmilk1lbwidericenoodles(orricesticks)4tbsptoastedsesameoil3tbsplimejuice,plusextratofinish2tbspshreddedbasilorcilantro

Tomake the spicepaste.Place all the ingredients in the small bowlof a foodprocessorandblendtoapaste.Youmightneedtostoponceortwicetoscrapethemixturebackdownfromthesidesofthebowloraddalittleextralimejuiceoroil.Keepthepasteontheside.

Trimanyleavesfromthebroccolianddivideintolargeflorets.

Sauté theonionwith theoil inamediumsaucepanfor2 to3minutes,oruntiltranslucent. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add 1teaspoonsalt, thepalmsugar, lime leavesandcoconutmilk.Bring to theboil,thenturndowntheheatandsimmergentlyfor5minutes.

Bring twomediumsaucepansof saltedwater to theboil. Inone,cook the ricenoodlesfor3to6minutes(checktheinstructionsonthepacket)andintheothercookthebroccolifor1to2minutes.Drainboth.Rinsethenoodlesbrieflyunderhotwateranddrainwell,thentosswith3tablespoonsofthesesameoilandthelime juice; seasongenerouslywithsalt.Drizzle the restof thesesameoiloverthebroccoliandsprinklewithapinchofsalt.

Dividethenoodlesamongwarmedwidebowlsandtopwiththewarmbroccoli.Spoon3to4tablespoonsofthesauceperportionoverandaroundthebroccoli,andfinishwiththebasilorcilantroandasquirtoflimejuice.

Cabbageandkohlrabisalad

Peoplealwaysaskmewhattodowithkohlrabi,anoftenunwantedchildintheorganicvegetablebox.Itseemstoohealthful,tooweird,tooGerman!Inactualfact,thisisawonderfulvegetable.Whenmixedwithrootvegetablesyoucanuseitingratins;youcanshallow-fryitinoliveoilandservewithgarlicandchives;andyoucanaddittoanAsianstir-fry.

But in thissaladI thinkIhavefoundtheabsolutebestuseforakohlrabi. It iswonderfullyfresh-tasting,withagoodlemonykickandsomesharpsweetness.Youmayendupgoinglookingforkohlrabi,anditisn’tveryeasytofind.Servethesaladalongsiderichmaincourses,suchasVeryFullTart.

Serves4

1mediumor1/2largekohlrabi1/2whitecabbage(8to9oz)largebunchofdill,roughlychopped(6heapedtbsp)

1cupdriedwholesourcherriesgratedzestof1lemon6tbsplemonjuice1/4cupoliveoil1garlicclove,crushedsaltandwhitepepper2cupsalfalfasprouts

Peelthekohlrabiandcutintothickmatchsticksthatareabout1/4inchwideand2incheslong.Cutthecabbageinto1/4-inch-thickstrips.

Putalltheingredients,apartfromthealfalfasprouts,inalargemixingbowl.Useyourhandstomassageeverythingtogetherforaboutaminutesotheflavorsmixandthelemoncansoftenthecabbageandcherries.Letthesaladsitforabout10minutes.

Addmostofthealfalfasproutsandmixwellagainwithyourhands.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning;youneedafairamountofsalttocounteractthelemon.

Useyourhandsagaintoliftthesaladoutofthemixingbowlandintoaservingbowl,leavingmostofthejuicesbehind.Garnishwiththeremainingsproutsandserveatonce.

Sweetwinterslaw

This saladwill bring color toyourwinter dinner table and livenup anymeal.You can leave out the caramelized macadamias, if you like, or use roastedpeanutsinstead.ConsiderservingtheslawwithChardCakesorroastchicken.

Serves6

Dressing61/2tbsplimejuice1lemongrassstalk,choppedintosmallpieces3tbspmaplesyrup2tbsptoastedsesameoil1tspsoysauce1/4tspchileflakes4tbsplightoliveoilorsunfloweroil

11/4cupsmacadamianuts2tspbutter2tbspsugar1/2tspsalt

1/2 tsp chile flakes 7 inner leaves of Savoy cabbage (6 oz in total), finelyshredded

1/2redcabbage(10oz),finelyshredded1mango,cutintothinstrips1papaya,cutintostrips1freshredchile,seededandfinelysliced1/4cupmint,leavespickedandroughlychopped11/2cupscilantro,leavespicked

androughlychoppedTo make the dressing. Place all the ingredients, except the oil, in a smallsaucepan and reduce over high heat for 5 to 10 minutes, or until thick andsyrupy.Removefromtheheat.Oncecooleddown,strainthesauceintoabowlandaddtheoil.Putasideforlater.

Placethemacadamiasinafryingpanovermediumheatanddry-roastforafewminutes,stirringoccasionally,untiltheyarelightlycoloredonallsides.Addthebutter.When it hasmelted add the sugar, salt and chile flakes.Use awoodenspoon to stir constantly to coat the nuts in the sugar as it caramelizes.Watchcarefullyasitwillonlytake1to2minutesandthesugarcanburnquickly.Turnoutontoasheetofparchmentpaper.Coolthenuts,thenroughlychopthem.

Place the shredded cabbages in a largemixingbowlwith the rest of the saladingredients,includingthenuts.Addthedressingandtosstogether.Tasteandaddmoresaltifyouneedto,thenserve.

SavoycabbageandParmesanrindsoup

Thisrecipeisabitofasolution-whattodowithalltheParmesanrindsleftaftergrating.Inrestaurantsyougetloads,soit’scommontousethemforsoupsandsauces. At home, you can collect the skins over time and keep them in thefreezer.Ifyoudon’thaveenoughyoucanalwaysaddmoregratedParmesan.

Serves4

6tbspoliveoil1largeonion,sliced1garlicclove,crushed1/2tspcarawayseeds,plusextratogarnish1mediumsavoycabbage1mediumpotato,peeledanddiced5cupsvegetablestock3ozParmesanrinds,plusabout1/3cupgratedParmesan(optional)coarsesea

salt1/2mildfreshredchile,seededandthinlyslicedHeat4tablespoonsoftheoilinalargepanandsautétheoniononmediumheatfor about 5minutes, or until soft butwithoutmuch color.Add the garlic andcarawayseedsandcookforafurther2minutes.

Remove four of the outer leaves from the cabbage, shred them finely and putasideforlater.Shredtherestofthecabbageleavesroughlyandaddthemtotheonions togetherwith the potato. Continue frying, stirring regularly, for 2 to 3minutes.

Add enough stock just to cover the vegetables and bring to the boil.Add theParmesanrind, thenreduce theheatandsimmerforabout10minutes,oruntilthepotatoistender.RemoveanddiscardtheParmesanrind.Tastethesoupandseasonwithsalt.

Removethesaucepanfromtheheatandallowthesouptocooldownforafewminutes.Then,usingan immersionblenderoraregularblender,blitz thesoup

roughly.Addmorestockifyouthinkitistoothick.Adjusttheseasoning.Keephot.

Heatuptheremaining2tablespoonsofoilinafryingpanandsautéthereservedshreddedcabbagewiththechileandabitofsaltfor3to4minutes,oruntilthecabbagesoftensbutstillretainsitsvibrantgreen.

Ladle thehotsoup intoservingbowls.Add theoptionalgratedParmesan.Topgenerouslywithshreddedcabbageandfinishwithafewcarawayseeds.

Brusselssproutsandtofu

Thoughunorthodox,here’sprobablyoneofthebestthingsyoucandowiththeoldBrussels.Thedelicioussweetsaucelendsvibrancytothedishandmakesitutterlyaddictive.Servewithhotsteamedrice.

Serves4

2tbspsweetchilesauce11/2tbspsoysauce3tbsptoastedsesameoil1tspricevinegar1tbspmaplesyrup5ozfirmtofu1lbBrusselssproutsabout3/4cupsunfloweroilsalt1cupslicedgreenonions1/2 small fresh red chile, deseeded and finely chopped 11/2 cups shiitake

mushrooms,halvedorquartered1cupcilantroleaves1tbsptoastedsesameseeds(optional)

Whisktogetherinabowlthechileandsoysauces,2tablespoonsofthesesameoil, the vinegar andmaple syrup.Cut the tofu block into 3/8-inch-thick slicesand theneachslice into twosquarishpieces.Gentlystir into themarinadeand

setaside.

Trimthebasesoffthesproutsandcuteachfromtoptobottomintothreethickslices.Takealargenonstickpan,add4tablespoonsofthesunfloweroilandheatupwell.Throw inhalf the sproutswith a little salt and cookonhighheat forabout2minutes.Don’tstirmuch.Youwantthesproutstoalmostburninafewplaces and cook through but remain crunchy.Remove to a bowl.Repeatwithmoreoil,saltandtherestofthesprouts.Removeallthesproutsfromthepan.

Add2moretablespoonsofsunfloweroiltothepan,heatupandsautéthegreenonions,chileandmushroomsfor1to2minutes.Transfertothesproutsbowl.

Leave the pan on high heat.Use tongs to lift half of the tofu pieces from themarinadeandgentlylaytheminthepan(becarefulastheoilwillspit!),spacingthemapartandinonelayer.Reducetheflametomediumandcookfor2minutesoneach side,oruntil theyget anicecaramelizedcolor.Transfer to the sproutbowlandrepeatwiththerestofthetofu.

Once all the tofu is cooked, remove the pan from the heat and return all thecookedingredientstoit.Addtheremainingtofumarinadeandhalfthecilantroleaves. Toss everything together and allow to cool down slightly in the pan.Tasteandaddsalt,ifneeded.Stirintheremainingsesameoil(plusextra,ifyoulike).Servewarm,butnothot,garnishedwiththesesameseeds,ifusing,andtherestofthecilantro.

Saffroncauliflower

In thesummerof2009Iwasaskedby themakersof theFoodProgrammeonBBCRadio4 tohostahalf-hourshowonasubjectofmychoice.Bizarrely, Iended up doing a program about cauliflower, trying to show how this veg isunjustifiablylosingitspopularityinrecentyears,particularlytobroccoli.Iknowthat there’snothingobviously sexyabout cauliflower towarrant star status. Infact, it seems - on the face of it - somehow dull and dreary. But aswewereworkingontheshowIrealizedthatthisisn’treallythecase,thatcaulifloweris

actuallywonderfullyversatile,muchmoresothanbroccoli.BothSamiTamimi,Ottolenghi’s executive head chef, and I agreed that it is one of those singularvegetables,likepotatooreggplant,thatcantakeonbigflavorswithoutlosingitsownuniquecharacter.

Here’soneexample.Serveitaspartofamezzeselectionorasasidedishwithlentilsorfish.Toupgrade,drizzlewithtahinisauce.

Serves4asasidedish

11/2tspsaffron1/3cupboilingwater1mediumcauliflower,dividedintomediumflorets1largeredonion,sliced2/3cupgoldenraisins(iftheyareverydrysoaktheminwaterforafewminutes,

then drain) 1/2 cup good-quality green olives, pitted and cut lengthways inhalf4tbspoliveoil

2bayleavessaltandblackpepper4tbsproughlychoppedparsley

Preheattheovento400°F.Putthesaffronstrandsinasmallbowlandpourovertheboilingwater.Leavetoinfuseforaminute,thenpourthesaffronandwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheremainingingredients,excepttheparsley,andmixeverythingtogetherwellwithyourhands.

Transfer themix toamediumovenproofdish,coverwithfoilandplace in theoven.Cookfor40to45minutes,oruntilthecaulifloweristenderbutstillabitfirm,notsoft.Halfwaythroughthecookingtimeremovethedishfromtheovenandstirwell,thencoveragainandreturntobake.

Oncethecaulifloweriscooked,takeitoutoftheoven,removethefoilandallowto cool down slightly before stirring in the parsley. Taste and adjust theseasoning,thenservewarmoratroomtemperature.

TheMightyEggplant

Eggplantwithbuttermilksauce

I can’t think of a more rustically elegant (is that a contradiction in terms?)starter.Servewithsomerobustwhitebreadorpitaandyouare,literally,infood

heaven.Intherecipeyou’llfindSamiTamimi’stechniqueforgettingtheseedsoutofthepomegranate,whichIamafraidisnowaverywell-knownsecret.

Serves4asastarter

2largeandlongeggplants1/3cupoliveoil11/2tsplemonthymeleaves,plusafewwholesprigstogarnishMaldonseasalt

andblackpepper1pomegranate1tspza’atar

Sauce9tbspbuttermilk1/2 cupGreekyogurt 11/2 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle to finish 1 small garlic

clove,crushedpinchofsalt

Preheattheovento200°F.Cuttheeggplantsinhalflengthways,cuttingstraightthroughthegreenstalk(thestalkisforthelook;don’teatit).Useasmallsharpknife tomake three or four parallel incisions in the cut side of each eggplanthalf,without cutting through to the skin.Repeat at a 45-degree angle to get adiamond-shapedpattern.

Place theeggplanthalves,cut-sideup,onabakingsheet linedwithparchmentpaper.Brushthemwitholiveoil-keeponbrushinguntilalloftheoilhasbeenabsorbedbytheflesh.Sprinklewiththelemonthymeleavesandsomesaltandpepper. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, at which point the flesh should be soft,flavorful and nicely browned.Remove from the oven and allow to cool downcompletely.

Whiletheeggplantsareintheoven,cutthepomegranateintotwohorizontally.Holdonehalfoverabowl,withthecutsideagainstyourpalm,andusethebackof awooden spoon or a rolling pin to gently knock on the pomegranate skin.Continue beating with increasing power until the seeds start coming outnaturallyandfallingthroughyourfingersintothebowl.Onceallarethere,sift

throughtheseedstoremoveanybitsofwhiteskinormembrane.

Tomake the sauce.Whisk together allof the ingredients.Taste for seasoning,thenkeepcolduntilneeded.

To serve, spoon plenty of buttermilk sauce over the eggplant halves withoutcoveringthestalks.Sprinkleza’atarandplentyofpomegranateseedsontopandgarnishwithlemonthyme.Finishwithadrizzleofoliveoil.

Sobanoodleswitheggplantandmango

Thisdishhasbecomemymother’sultimatecook-to-impressfare.Andsheisnottheonlyone,asIhavebeeninformedbymanyreaders.Itistherefreshingnatureof the cold buckwheat noodles the sweet sharpness of the dressing and themuskinessofmangothatmakeitsopleasing.Servethisasasubstantialstarterorturnitintoalightmaincoursebyaddingsomefriedfirmtofu.

Serves6

1/2cupricevinegar3tbspsugar1/2tspsalt2garliccloves,crushed1/2freshredchile,finelychopped1tsptoastedsesameoilgratedzestandjuiceof1lime1cupsunfloweroil2eggplants,cutinto3/4-inchdice8to9ozsobanoodles1 largeripemango,cut into3/8-inchdiceor into1/4-inch-thickstrips12/3cup

basilleaves,chopped(ifyoucangetsomeuseThaibasil,butmuchlessofit)21/2cupscilantroleaves,chopped1/2redonion,verythinlysliced

Inasmallsaucepangentlywarmthevinegar,sugarandsaltforupto1minute,justuntilthesugardissolves.Removefromtheheatandaddthegarlic,chileandsesameoil.Allowtocool,thenaddthelimezestandjuice.

Heatupthesunfloweroilinalargepanandshallow-frytheeggplantinthreeorfourbatches.Oncegoldenbrown remove toacolander, sprinkle liberallywithsaltandleavetheretodrain.

Cook thenoodles inplentyofboiling saltedwater, stirringoccasionally.Theyshould take5 to8minutes tobecome tenderbutstillaldente.Drainandrinsewell under running cold water. Shake off as much of the excess water aspossible,thenleavetodryonadishtowel.

Inamixingbowltossthenoodleswiththedressing,mango,eggplant,halfoftheherbsandtheonion.Youcannowleavethisasidefor1to2hours.Whenready

toserveaddtherestoftheherbsandmixwell,thenpileonaplateorinabowl.

Eggplanttricolore(andmore)

I hope all Italianswill be able to forgiveme for this - the sacrilegious use ofcilantroinaveryItaliandish.Infact,andIsaysoquietly,almostinawhisper,itworksmarvellouslywell.AndI’dgoevenfurtherintoverydangerousterritoryby suggesting, God forbid, that fresh cilantro could fit perfectly in traditionalItaliancuisine.That’sit,I’vesaidit.Nowfeelfreetosubstitutegoodoldbasilforthecilantro.

Serves4

3mediumeggplantsoliveoilMaldonseasaltandblackpepper1yellowbellpepper,cutinto3/8-inchdice10cherrytomatoes,quartered1tbspredwinevinegar31/2 tbsp capers, plus 1 tbsp of the caper brine 5 oz top-quality buffalo

mozzarella1cuppickedcorianderleaves

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut the eggplants widthways into 3/4-inch-thickslices.Placetheslicesonabakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaper.Brushthemgenerously on both sideswith plenty of oil and sprinklewith salt and pepper.Roastintheovenfor25to30minutes,oruntiltheeggplantsaresoftandgoldenbrown.Allowtocooldown.

Mix together the bell pepper, tomatoes, vinegar, capers and brine, and 2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Setaside forat least30minutes (themixcanbekeptrefrigeratedforseveraldays;theflavorswilldeepenovertime).

To serve, arrange the eggplant slices, slightly overlapping, on a serving dish.Breakthemozzarellaintolargechunksandscatterontop.Spoonovertheyellowpeppersalsaandfinishwiththecilantro.

Broiledvegetablesoup

Theprocessofbroiling thevegetablesbeforecooking themtogethergives thissoupaprofounddepthofflavor.Itkeepswellsodoubleitanditwillsustainyoukindly.

Serves4

3mediumeggplants2redbellpeppers,stemsremovedwithseeds3mediumtomatoes2redonions,finelydiced2tbspoliveoil3/4cupbasilleaves,torn4oreganosprigs,leavespicked10garliccloves,peeled1qtvegetablestocksaltandblackpepper4cupsfreshlycookedlimabeans(cannedarealsookay)4tbspGreekyogurtor

4lemonquarters

Preheatthebroilertohigh.Lineasmallbakingpanwithfoil.Pricktheeggplantsin a few places with a small pointy knife and place in the pan. Broil for 30minutes.

Place thebellpeppers inanother small foil-linedbakingpanunder thebroiler,nexttotheeggplants.Turntheeggplantsoverwithtongs.Broilfor15minutes,turningthepeppersoveronceduringthistime.Don’tworryiftheeggplantskinbeginstocrackandcharorifthepeppersstartgoingblack.

Place the whole tomatoes in a small pan, underneath the other vegetables.Continuebroilingthevegetablesfor15minutes.Thenremovethemallfromthebroiler.Cover thepepperswith foil and leave to cooldown;once theycanbehandled,peelthemandtearthefleshintopieces.Cutalongslitineacheggplantandscoopoutthesoftflesh,avoidingmostoftheburntskin;roughlychopthefleshandsetaside.

Whilethevegetablesarebroiling,puttheonionsandoliveoilinalargepotandfryonlowheatforabout20minutes,oruntiltheonionsaresoftandgolden.

Add the eggplant flesh, peppers, tomatoes, half the basil, the oregano leaves,garlic,stockandsomesaltandpepper.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerthesoupfor15minutes.

Blitz until smooth using an immersion blender, or a regular blender. Add thebeansandmixwell.Reheatthesoup,thentasteforseasoning.Servehot,toppedwithadollopofGreekyogurt(orwithlemon)andtheremainingbasil.

Lentilswithbroiledeggplant

A most delicious main course for any occasion, formal or casual. After therecipeappearedintheGuardianIreceivedtwoanxiouslettersfromreaderswhohadexperiencedmini-explosionsintheirkitchen.Apparently-andIdidn’tknowitthen-insomecaseseggplantsunderthebroilercanexplodewithathunderousboom, the flesh spouting everywhere, rather than deflate gradually as the skinburnsandbreaks.Isincerelyapologizetoallwhohadthisexperience.Sopleasemakesuretopiercetheeggplants!

Serves4

2mediumeggplants2tbsptop-qualityredwinevinegarsaltandblackpepper1 cup small dark lentils (such as Puy or Castelluccio), rinsed 3 small carrots,

peeled2celerystalks1bayleaf3thymesprigs1/2whiteonion3tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish12cherrytomatoes,halved

1/3tspbrownsugar1 tbspeachroughlychoppedparsley,cilantroanddill2 tbspcrèmefraîche(or

naturalyogurt,ifyouprefer)Tocooktheeggplantsonagasstovetop,whichisthemosteffectiveway,startbyliningtheareaaroundtheburnerswithfoiltoprotectthem.Puttheeggplantsdirectly on two moderate flames and roast for 12 to 15 minutes, turningfrequentlywithmetal tongs, until the flesh is soft and smoky and the skin isburntallover.Keepaneyeonthemthewholetimesotheydon’tcatchfire.Foran electric stove, pierce the eggplantswith a sharp knife in a few places. Putthemonafoil-linedtrayandplacedirectlyunderahotbroilerfor1hour,turningthemafewtimes.Theeggplantsneedtodeflatecompletelyandtheirskinshouldburnandbreak.

Remove the eggplants from the heat. If you used an oven broiler, change theoventoitsnormalsetting.Heattheovento275°F.Cutaslitdownthecenteroftheeggplants and scoopout the flesh intoa colander, avoiding theblack skin.Leave todrainforat least15minutesandonly thenseasonwithplentyofsaltandpepperand1/2tablespoonofthevinegar.

Whiletheeggplantsarebroiling,placethelentilsinamediumsaucepan.Cutonecarrotandhalfacelerystalkintolargechunksandthrowthemin.Addthebayleaf,thymeandonion,coverwithplentyofwaterandbringtotheboil.Simmeronalowheatforupto25minutes,oruntilthelentilsaretender,skimmingawaythe froth from the surface from time to time. Drain in a sieve. Remove anddiscardthecarrot,celery,bayleaf,thymeandonionandtransferthelentilstoamixing bowl. Add the rest of the vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil andplentyofsaltandpepper;stirandsetasidesomewherewarm.

Cut the remaining carrot and celery into 3/8-inch dice and mix with thetomatoes, the remaining oil, the sugar and some salt. Spread in an ovenproofdishandcookintheovenforabout20minutes,oruntilthecarrotistenderbutstillfirm.

Addthecookedvegetables to thewarmlentils, followedby thechoppedherbsand stir gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the lentils onto serving

plates.Pilesomeeggplantinthecenterofeachportionandtopitwithadollopofcrèmefraîcheoryogurt.Finishwithatrickleofoil.

Eggplantcroquettes

Myfascinationwith croquettes startedwhen Iwas living inAmsterdam,morethanadecadeago.AsIwasoftennotsober,forallsortsofreasons,Imanagedtofallinlovewithanationalperversion:warmandcheesygreaseballsthatcameoutofavendingmachine.Iassureyouthatyou’llbeabletoenjoymycroquetteswith amuch clearer conscience. Serve them as a nibble or a starter.You cansubstituteamuchsimplerwedgeoflemonfortheaioli,ifyouprefer.

Serves6

4mediumeggplants2mediumrussetpotatoes,cooked,peeledandsmashed1largeegg,beaten5ozfeta,crumbled3tbspgratedParmesan1/2tspsaltblackpepperabout13/4cupsdriedwhitebreadcrumbs

Tarragonaioli(optional)1eggyolk1smallgarlicclove,crushed11/2 tbsp lemon juice 1/4 tsp salt 1/4 cup grapeseedoil 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tbsp

choppedtarragon

sunfloweroilforfrying

First, burn theeggplants.When theeggplants are cool,makea slit alongeacheggplantanduseaspoontoscoopouttheflesh;trytoavoidtheblackskin.Placein a colander anddiscard the rest.Leave to drain for 30minutes to get rid ofsomeoftheliquid.Oncedrained,youshouldhaveroughly11/4lbsofeggplantflesh.

Placetheeggplantfleshinalargebowl.Addthepotatoes,egg,feta,Parmesan,saltandsomepepper.Bringeverythingtogethergentlywithafork;youwanttokeepthemixquiterough.Addabouthalfofthebreadcrumbs,justenoughsothemixissufficientlysolidtoholditsshapebutisstillalittlesticky.

Removethemixfromthebowlanddivideitintofour.Rolleachportionintoathick sausage that is about 1 inch in diameter. Sprinkle the remainingbreadcrumbs on your work surface and roll the sausages in them so they arecompletely coated.Transfer to a tray and leave to firmup in the fridge for atleast20minutes.

Tomake the aioli. Place the egg yolk, garlic, lemon juice and salt in a foodprocessor.Turnthemachineonandaddtheoils,oneaftertheother,inaslow,steadystream.Whentheaioli iscreamyandthicklikemayonnaise, fold in thetarragon.Keepinthefridge.

To cook the croquettes, cut each sausage into 21/4-inch-long barrel-shapedpieces;youshouldendupwithabout20pieces.Pourenough fryingoil intoafrying pan to come about 3/4 inch up the sides. Heat up the oil, then fry thecroquettes in small batches for about 3 minutes, turning them over to colorevenly.Makesuretheoilisalwayshotbutnotsohotthatitburnsthecroquettes.

Transfertopapertowelstodrain.Servehot.

Burnteggplantwithtahini

Thiscanbeapotentdiporcondimentthatyoucanservewithrawvegetablesorto accompany lamb or fish. Or, with the optional chunks of cucumber andtomato, it can be a gloriously refreshing summer salad that exudes MiddleEasternaromas.Youchoose.

Serves2-4

1largeeggplant1/3cuptahinipaste1/4cupwater2tsppomegranatemolasses1tbsplemonjuice1garlicclove,crushed3tbspchoppedparsleysaltandblackpepper3minicucumbers(6to7ozintotal,optional)3/4cupcherrytomatoes(optional)seedsfrom1/2largepomegranatealittleolive

oiltofinish

First,burntheeggplant.Whencoolenoughtohandlescoopoutthefleshintoacolander,avoidingtheblackenedskin.Leavetodrainforatleast30minutes.

Choptheeggplantfleshroughlyandtransfertoamediummixingbowl.Addthetahini,water,pomegranatemolasses, lemonjuice,garlic,parsleyandsomesaltandpepper;mixwellwithawhisk.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning,addingmoregarlic, lemonjuiceormolasses ifneeded.Youwant thesalad tohavearobustsour/slightlysweetflavor.

Ifyouwanttoaddcucumberandtomatoes,cutthecucumberslengthwaysinhalfandtheneachhalflengthwaysintwo.Cuteachquarterinto3/8-inch-longpieces.Halvethetomatoes.Stirthemandthecucumberintotheeggplantmix.

Toserve,spreadoverashallowdish,scatterthepomegranateseedsontopand

drizzlewithoil.

Tomatoes

Marinatedbuffalomozzarellaandtomato

This is probably one of the simplest yet finest starters you can offer. There’sonlyonecatch-youringredients.IwouldditchtheideaatonceifIcouldn’tget

aripesummerytomato,juicyandsweetlyintense,atomatothathasneverseenafridgeorachilledtruck,onlysoilandsun.Youcanactuallygetsuchtomatoesifyoulookhardenough.ThebesttomatoIeverhadwashomegrowninthevillageofMonarola in theCinqueTerre, northern Italy. I’ll never forget it.You alsoneedatop-qualitybuffalomozzarella.Servethiswithgoodcrustywhitebread.

Serves4asastarter

Marinade1/2tspfennelseedsgratedzestof1lemon15basilleaves,shredded2tspchoppedoregano2tspbest-qualityextravirginoliveoil,plusextratofinish2tspgrapeseedoil1garlicclove,crushed1/2tspMaldonseasaltblackpepper

8to9ozbuffalomozzarella2ripemediumtomatoes(red,yellowormixed)To make the marinade. Scatter the fennel seeds in a small frying pan overmedium heat and dry-roast until they begin to pop. Transfer to a mortar andpestleandcrush roughly.Place thecrushedseeds ina smallbowlandadd theremainingmarinadeingredients.

Breakthemozzarellaroughlywithyourhands.Smearitwiththemarinadeandsetasidefor15to30minutes.

To serve, cut the tomatoes into wedges and plate along with the marinatedmozzarella.Drizzlewithextraoliveoilandserve.

Quinoaandgrilledsourdoughsalad

This summerybread salad isn’tmuch short of awholemeal. I have taken thetraditionalArabfattoush,changedthebreadandbulkeditupwithquinoa,whichistheonlygrainIdaretouseinthissaladasit’sverylightanddelicate.Alotrestshereonthepoortomato.Ifyourtomatoesaresweetandjuicyyoumaynotneed asmuch dressing to perk themup. If they are “dry” and bland youmaywant to add a bit more. Leave the prepared salad to sit a little so the breadcroutonscansoftenup-unlessyouwantthemmega-crunchy.

Serves4

1/4cupquinoa4slicessourdoughbread1/3cupoliveoil,plusextratobrushthebreadsalt4ripemediumtomatoes3smallcucumbers,unpeeled1/2smallredonion,verythinlysliced4tbspchoppedcilantro11/2tbspchoppedmint2tbspchoppedparsley1tbsplemonjuice3/4tbspredwinevinegar2smallgarliccloves,crushedblackpepper

Preheattheovento350°F.Placethequinoainasaucepanofboilingwaterandcookfor9minutes,oruntiltender.Draininafinesieve,rinseundercoldwaterandleavetodry.

Brushthebreadwithalittlebitofoliveoilandsprinklewithsomesalt.Laytheslices on a baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, turning them overhalfway through.Thebreadshouldbecompletelydryandcrisp.Removefromtheovenandallowtocooldown,thenbreakbyhandintodifferent-sizedpieces.

Cut the tomatoes into roughly 3/4-inchdiceandput in amixingbowl.Cut thecucumbers into similar-size pieces and add to the tomatoes. Add all theremaining ingredients, including the quinoa and croutons, and stir gently until

everythingismixedwelltogether.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.

Tomato,semolinaandcilantrosoup

Straightforward comfort food atmy dad’s homewas simply cooked semolinawithbutterandParmesan.IwaslookingforasoupcontainingsemolinawhenIcameacrossa recipeby thefamousIsraelichef,RafiCohen,whoseMoroccangrandmother made a semolina-based soup (as did my Italian grandmother).Here’smyvariationonhistheme.

Serves6

3tbspoliveoil1mediumonion,finelychopped1celerystalk,roughlychopped2tspgroundcoriander2tspgroundcumin11/2tspsweetpaprika2tspfinelychoppedthyme31/2cupscilantroleaves,roughlychopped2tbsptomatopaste5 medium tomatoes (1 lb in total), peeled and finely chopped salt and black

pepperabout61/2cupswater11/2tbspsugar1cupsemolina11/2tbsplemonjuice(optional)3tbspGreekyogurt(optional)

Heatuptheoliveoilinamediumpot.Addtheonion,celery,groundcoriander,groundcumin,paprika, thymeandhalf thechoppedcilantro.Sautéonmediumheat until the onion is golden and soft. Add the tomato paste and stir for aminute.Add the tomatoesandsomesaltandpepper,andcook fora fewmoreminutes. Add the water and sugar and bring to the boil, then simmer for 20minutes.

Next, add the semolina to the simmering soup in a slow stream as youwhiskvigorously. Keep on cooking for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to avoidlumps (don’t worry if you do get some after all; they will turn into littledumplingswithanappealingtexture).

Beforeserving,addmorewaterifthesoupistoothickforyourliking.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepperandthelemonjuice,ifneeded.Ladleintobowls,spoonyogurtontop,ifyoulike,andgarnishwiththeremainingchoppedcilantro.

Tomatoparty

Thepurposeof thissalad is tomakeuseofasmanyaspossibleof the infinitetypesoftomatoesthatareavailablenow.SomeIcookalittle,othersmore,andsome I leave completely raw, tomaximize the “tomatoey” effectwith diverseflavors and textures. Choose whatever tomato selection you can get; the onebelowisjustasuggestion.

Instead of the Sardinian fregola (available from kalustyans.com), you can useArabmograbiah(fromMiddleEasterngrocers)orIsraelicouscous.Orjustleaveoutthefregolaanddoublethequantityofcouscous.

Serves4

3/4cupcouscoussaltoliveoil2/3cupboilingwater1cupfregola3mediumvine-ripenedtomatoes,quartered3/4tspbrownsugarblackpepper1tspbalsamicvinegar1cupyellowcherrytomatoes,halved2tbsproughlychoppedoregano2tbsproughlychoppedtarragon3tbsproughlychoppedmint1garlicclove,crushed1smallgreentomato,cutintothinwedges3/4cupredcherrytomatoes,halvedPreheattheovento325°F.Putthecouscousinabowlwithapinchofsaltandadrizzleofoil.Pourover theboilingwater, stirandcover thebowlwithplasticwrap.Setasidefor12minutes,thenremovetheplasticwrap,separatethegrainswithaforkandleavetocool.

Placethefregolainapanofboilingsaltedwaterandsimmerfor18minutes,oruntilaldente.Draininacolanderandrinseundercoldrunningwater.Leavetodrycompletely.

Meanwhile,spreadthequarteredvinetomatoesoverhalfofalargebakingpanand sprinkle with the sugar and some salt and pepper. Drizzle the balsamicvinegar and some oil over the top. Place in the oven.After about 20minutesremovefromtheovenandincreasethetemperatureto400°F.Ontheemptysideofthebakingpan,spreadtheyellowtomatoes.Seasonthemwithsaltandpepperanddrizzleoversomeoil.Returntotheovenandroastfor12minutes.Removethetomatoesandallowtocooldown.

Mix together the couscous and fregola in a large bowl.Add the herbs, garlic,cooked tomatoes with all their juices, the green tomato and cherry tomatoes.Verygentlymixtogetherusingyourhands.Tasteforseasoning:youmightneedtoaddsalt,pepperandsomeoliveoil.

Quesadillas

Whileallthemeat-eatersarescoffingsmokyjointsofthis,thatortheother,trythisMexicansandwichasavegetarianbarbecuedish.

Serves4

Blackbeanpaste11/2cupscookedblackbeans(cannedarefine)1tspgroundcoriander1/2tspgroundcumin1/4tspcayennepepper1bunchcilantro(leavesandstalks,

about1oz),choppedjuiceof1lime1/4tspsaltSalsa1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced 1/2 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 green onions,

thinlysliced5mediumtomatoes,diced1garlicclove,crushed1mildfreshredchile,finelydiced1 bunch of cilantro (leaves and stalks, about 1 oz), finely chopped, plus extra

leavestogarnish3/4tspsaltjuiceof1/2lime2ripemediumavocados,diced

8smalltortillas(preferablycorn)3/4cupsourcream41/2ozgood-qualitysharpCheddar,grated6tbspdrainedand

roughlychoppedpickledjalapeñosTomaketheblackbeanpaste.Placealltheingredientsinafoodprocessorandquicklypulseuntilaroughpastehasformed.

Makethesalsa.Firstsoaktheredonioninthevinegarinalargebowlforafewminutes.Thenaddalloftheotheringredientsandstirwell.

Preparethebarbecue,orheataridgedgriddlepan.

Take one of the tortillas and spread with 2 tablespoons of the bean paste,creatingalargecircleinthecenterbutleavingabout3/4inchclearallaroundat

theedge.Overonehalfofthebeancirclespreadatablespoonofsourcream,asprinkle of Cheddar, a tablespoon of salsa and some jalapeños. Fold over theothertortillahalf.

Tocook,gentlyplacethequesadillasonthebarbecue,oroneatatimeonthehotgriddlepan.Leavefor2to3minutes,thenturnandcookfor2to3minutesontheotherside.Thefillingshouldbewarmandthetortillanicelycharred.

Cuteachtortilla intotwoatanangleandtransfer toaservingdish.Spoonanyremainingsalsaalongsideandgarnishwithcilantroleaves.

Herb-stuffedtomatoes

This Provençal-style starter is quick to prepare. Serve it with a little salad ofseasonalleavesandafewbrokenpiecesofrobustgoatcheese.

Serves4asasmallstarter

4mediumtomatoes(ripebutfirm)salt1largeonion,finelychopped2garliccloves,finelychopped12wrinklyblackolives,pittedandroughlychopped2tbspoliveoil1/4cuppanko2tbspchoppedoregano3tbspchoppedparsley1tbspchoppedmint11/2tbspchoppedcapersblackpepper

Preheattheovento325°F.Trimoffabout3/8inchfromthetopofeachtomatoanddiscard.Usealittlespoonoramelonballertoremovetheseedsandmostoftheflesh,leavingacleanshell.Lightlysalttheinsideofthetomatoesandplaceupsidedowninacolander,todrainoffsomemoisture.

Meanwhile,puttheonion,garlic,olivesand1tablespoonoftheoilinamediumpan and cook on lowheat for 5 to 6minutes, to soften the onion completely.Remove from the heat and stir in the panko, herbs, capers and some pepper.Tasteandaddsalt,ifyoulike.

Wipetheinsidesofthetomatoeswithapapertowel,thenfillthemupwiththeherb stuffing,pressingdownverygently asyougo.Youwant anicedomeofstuffingontop.

Place the tomatoes in a greased ovenproof dish and drizzle lightly with theremainingoil.Bakefor35to45minutes,oruntilthetomatoessoften.Servehotorwarm.

Leaves,CookedandRaw

Bakedeggswithyogurtandchile

Here’smyideaofcomfortfoodandaperfectSundaybrunchtreat.Itisinspiredbyçılbır,whichisTurkishpoachedeggswithyogurt.Itcallsforkırmızıbiber,acommonTurkishspicemadefromcrushedchilesthathavebeenrubbedwithoiland often roasted. TheTurks use it as a general condiment and also add it tomeltedbutter togivethefinal touchtomanydishes.Kırmızıbiberhasasweetaroma and can vary in spiciness. You can get it from Turkish grocers orkalustyans.com. Alternatively, use plain chile flakes mixed with some sweetpaprika.

Serves2

3/4lb(about14cups)arugula2tbspoliveoilsalt4eggs3/4cupGreekyogurt1garlicclove,crushed4tbspunsaltedbutter1/2tspkırmızıbiber6sageleaves,shredded

Preheattheovento300°F.Placethearugulaandoilinalargepan,addsomesaltandsautéonamediumheatforabout5minutes,oruntil thearugulawiltsandmostoftheliquidhasevaporated.

Transfer to a small ovenproof dish and make four deep indentations in thearugula.Carefullybreakan egg into eachhollow, takingcarenot tobreak theyolk.Placeintheoventocookfor10to15minutes,oruntiltheeggwhitesareset. (Alternatively, divide the arugula into small pans and cook two eggs ineach.)

Whiletheeggsareintheoven,mixtheyogurtwiththegarlicandapinchofsalt.Stirwellandsetaside;donotchill.

Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepan.Addthekırmızıbiberandapinchofsaltandfryfor1to2minutes,oruntilthebutterstartstofoamandturnsanicegolden-red.Addthesageandcookforafewmoreseconds.Removefromtheheat.

Oncetheeggsarecookedtakethemoutoftheoven.Spoontheyogurtoverthecenter, and pour the hot chile butter over the yogurt and eggs. Serveimmediately.

Chardandsaffronomelettes

Anybodywho’sbeenfollowingmywritingcouldn’thelpnoticinghowmuchIcarry on about chard. These wonderful leaves belong to the same family asbeets.Whenpickedsmalltheymakeagreatcontributiontoleafysalads,bothinflavorandwiththeirmagnificentredhue.Butitisthelarge,maturedeep-greenleaves-withstalksrangingfromwhite,toyellow,toredandorange-thatIlovesomuch.TheyareinseasonfromJunetoAugust,andhaveasharpandearthyflavor,nottoodominantbutperfectlyrecognizable.

Bothchardstalksandleavesareedible,althoughthestalksnormallytakeabitlongertocook.InmostcasesIslicethestalksthinlyandtheleavesabitwider,thenthrowthestalksintoapanandsautéorblanchfor3minutesbeforeaddingthe leavesandcookingthrough.Here, though,Istart themoff togetheras theyarecookedforalongtimeanyway.

Serves4

1/2lb(1medium)waxypotato,peeledandcutinto3/8-inchdice1cupwaterpinchofsaffronthreads3/4lbSwisschard(stalksandleaves),shreddedsaltandpepper2tbsplemonjuice1garlicclove,crushed5eggs1/4cupmilk2/3cupchoppedherbs(tarragon,dill,parsley)vegetableoil1/2cupcrèmefraîche,coldPutthepotatoes,waterandsaffroninalargepanandbringtotheboil.Simmerfor4minutes,thenaddthechardandsomesaltandpepper.Continuecooking,covered, for10 to15minutes,oruntil thepotato is soft.Drainoutanyexcessliquidthatisleftinthepan.Offtheheat,addthelemonjuiceandgarlic.Leavetocool.

Whisk together well the eggs, milk, herbs and some salt and pepper. Pour 1teaspoonofoilintoahot,9-inchnonstickfryingpan,thenuseone-quarteroftheeggmix tomake a thin round omelette. Transfer to paper towels.Make threemoreomelettesinthesameway.Leavetocooldown.

Dividethecoldcrèmefraîcheamongtheomelettes,spreadingitoveronehalfofeach.Tastethechardmixandadjusttheseasoning,thenspreadgenerouslyoverthecrèmefraîche.Foldeachomeletteover inhalf, thenfoldagain togetafanshape.Allowthechardmixtoshowattheopenside.Arrangetheomelettesinalightlyoiledovenproofdishoronabakingsheet.(Keepinthefridgeifmakingahead.)Whenreadytoserve,preheattheovento325°F.Placetheomelettesintheovenfor5to8minutes,oruntilhot.Serveatonce.

Lettucesalad

Itisessentialforeverygoodcooktohaveasolidlettucesaladuptheirsleeve,agood in-between course to cleanse the palate and lighten the spirits. This oneshoulddothetrick;italsomakesforagoodstarter.

Iamnotveryfondofsun-dried tomatoes,particularlynotforsalads- theyareharsh,bothinflavorandtexture-butIlovesemi-driedtomatoes.Youcanmakethem yourself and store in olive oil for quite some time, or buy one of thecommercial varieties that go by funny names such as “sun-blushed” or “sun-kissed.”

Serves4

Dressing1garlicclove,crushed11/2tbsplemonjuice11/2tbspoliveoil1tbspgrapeseedoil

saltandblackpepper

1headofbutterlettuce,leavesseparated1/2headofcurlylettuce,leavesseparated1headofradicchio,leavesseparated3greenonions,greenandwhiteparts,slicedthinlyonasharpangle20radishes,

trimmedandcutinto1/8-inch-thickslices2cupssemi-driedtomatoes,wholeorroughlytorn2tbspcapers,wholeifsmallorveryroughlychopped

To make the dressing. In a small bowl whisk together the ingredients, beingquitegenerouswiththesaltandpepper.

Washthelettuceleaves,drywellandkeepwholeortearintolargepieces.Placein a large mixing bowl and add the radicchio, green onions, radishes andtomatoes.

Justbeforeserving,pourthedressingoverthesaladandtossgently.Transfertoalargemixingbowlandsprinklethecapersoverthetop.

Swisschard,chickpeaandtamarindstew

Ialwayswanttoaddsharpnesstoslow-cooked,stewy-typedishes,somethingtobreak down the heavy seriousness of the dish and introduce a little refreshingedge to it - a bit of humor even. The Italians invented gremolata - choppedgarlic,parsleyandlemonzest-whichtheyusetofinishoffthefamousossobucoallamilanese.Here, though, I don’t reallyneed this kindof thing as I includeheapsofsharpnessinthedishfromthestart,intheformoftamarindandchard.Still,Ican’tresistthetemptationofalittlelemonjuiceattheend,justincase;some chile flakes will also give it a kick if you want to add them. This is aperfectmaincourseforwhenitgetsabitcloudy.

Serves4

4tbspseedlesstamarindpulp1lbSwisschard(stalksandleaves),cutinto3/8-inchslices11/2tspcorianderseeds1mediumonion,thinlysliced2tspcarawayseeds11/2tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish1tsptomatopasteone14-ozcanchoppedplumtomatoes,withtheirjuices11/2cupswater11/2tbspsugar21/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (or a 14-oz can, drained) salt and black

pepperjuiceof1lemon1cupGreekyogurt(optional)generoushandfulofcilantroleaves13/4cupsshort-grainrice11/2tbspbutter3cupswater

Startbywhiskingthetamarindwithabout3tablespoonsofwarmwateruntilitdissolvesintoapaste.Setaside.

Bring a medium pot of salted water to the boil and blanch the chard for 2minutes.Draininacolander.

Dry-roastthecorianderseedsinasmallpanovermediumheat,thengrindtoapowderwithamortarandpestle.

Next,puttheonion,carawayseedsandoliveoilinalargeheavypanandsautéonmediumheatforabout10minutes,oruntiltheonionissoftandgolden.Addthe tomato paste and stir as you cook it for about a minute. Add the cannedtomatoes, water, sugar, chickpeas, ground coriander, chard and some salt andpepper.

Strain the tamarindwater throughasmallsieveinto thepan.Bringto theboil,thencoverwithalidandleavetosimmerforabout30minutes.Whenready,thedishshouldhavetheconsistencyofa thicksoup.Youcanadjust thiseitherbyaddingmorewaterorsimmeringuncoveredsotheexcessliquidcanevaporate.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepperifneeded.

Whilethestewiscooking,puttherice,butterandabitofsaltinamediumpanandsetonamediumheat.Stir tocoat the ricewithbutter.Add thewaterandbringtotheboil,thencoverthepanwithatight-fittinglidandleavetosimmeronalowflamefor15to20minutes.Removefromtheheatandleavecoveredfor5minutes.

When ready to serve, spoon the rice into shallow soupbowls, creatinga largecraterinthecenter.Addthelemonjuicetothestewandstir,thenputaladleortwointo themiddleof therice ineachbowl.Spoonyogurtontop, ifyoulike.Drizzlewithoilandfinishwithplentyofcilantroleaves.

Chardcakeswithsorrelsauce

The cheese I use in these splendid cakes is kashkaval, of which there aredifferentregionalvarietiesallovertheBalkans.ThereisalsoanItalianversioncalled caciocavallo.Kashkaval is normallymade from sheep’smilk and has atangyyetnutty flavor.Youcanget it fromAraborTurkishgrocers.Chooseastrong and less industrialized variety. If you can’t get it, replace withmature

pecorino.

Youdon’tnecessarilyhavetomakethesauceasthecakesworkperfectlywellaccompaniedwithjustawedgeoflemon.Still,ifyouchoosetomakeit(andIcan’trecommenditenough)you’llbeable tokeepit in thefridgeforadayortwo and serve it with a million other things - roasted root vegetables, heartylentils,redmeatandoilyfish.

Serves4asastarter

Sauce3cupssorrelleaves,washed1/2cupGreekyogurt1garlicclove,crushed2tbspoliveoil1/2tspDijonmustardsalt

11/4lbsSwisschard1/3cuppinenuts1tbspoliveoil4ozkashkavalcheese,coarselygrated1egg6tbspdriedwhitebreadcrumbs1/4tspsaltblackpepperhalf-and-halfvegetableoilandoliveoilforfrying

Tomakethesauce.Placealltheingredientsinafoodprocessororablenderandblitz toa finebright-greensauce.Tasteandadjust theamountofsalt.Keep inthefridgeuntilneeded.

Cut thewoodywhite stalks from the green chard leaves.Bring a large panofwatertotheboil.Addthestalksandsimmerfor4minutes.Thenaddtheleaves,stir and continue simmering for 3minutes.Drain the chard and allow to cooldown slightly.Oncecool enough tohandle, squeeze asmuchwateroutof thechardaspossible.Youneedtousebothhandsandbequiteforceful todothis.Next,choptheleavesandstalksroughlyandputinamixingbowl.

Ina smallpan fry thepinenuts in the tablespoonofoliveoil for1minute,oruntillightbrown(watchout;theydarkeninseconds).Addthenutsandoiltothechard, followedby the cheese, egg,breadcrumbs, salt and somepepper. If themixisverysoftandstickyyoumightneedtoaddmorecrumbs.

Pourenoughfryingoilintoafryingpantocome1/4inchupthesides.Shapethechardmix into eight patties that are roughly2 inches in diameter and58 inchthick.Frythemforabout3minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrown.Transferontopapertowelstoabsorbtheoil.Servewarmoratroomtemperature,withthesauceontheside.

Greenpancakeswithlimebutter

ThisrecipebroughtlotsofcomplimentsroundmywayafterIfirstpublisheditin2008.Iguessthesepancakesaresocomfortingtheysomehowtakeyoubackto your childhood, when the joy of textures and flavors is still pure andunadulterated.Brunchistheidealmealforthem,servedwithasaladofseasonalleavesandpossiblyalsoasliceoffreshlygrilledhalloumiorapieceofsmokedfish.

Somelimebutterwillprobablybeleftover.Keepitinthefridgeandthensmearitoverabakedsweetpotato.

Serves3-4

Limebutter8tbsp(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperaturegratedzestof1lime11/2tbsplimejuice1/4tspsalt1/2tspwhitepepper1tbspchoppedcilantro1/2garlicclove,finelychopped1/4tspchileflakes1/2 lb (about 8 cups) spinach, washed 3/4 cup self-rising flour 1 tbsp baking

powder

1egg4tbspunsaltedbutter,melted1/2tspsalt1tspgroundcumin2/3cupmilk6mediumgreenonions,finelysliced2freshgreenchiles,thinlysliced1eggwhiteoliveoilforfrying

Tomake the lime butter. Put the butter in amedium bowl and beat it with awoodenspoonuntil it turnssoftandcreamy.Stir in therestof the ingredients.Tipontoasheetofplasticwrapandrollintoasausageshape.Twisttheendsofthewraptosealtheflavoredbutter.Chilluntilfirm.

Wiltthespinachinapanwithasplashofwater.Draininasieveand,whencool,squeezehardwithyourhandstoremoveasmuchmoistureaspossible.Roughlychopandputaside.

Puttheflour,bakingpowder,wholeegg,meltedbutter,salt,cuminandmilkinalargemixing bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the green onions, chiles andspinachandmixwithafork.Whisktheeggwhitetosoftpeaksandgentlyfolditintothebatter.

Pourasmallamountofoliveoilintoaheavyfryingpanandplaceonmedium-highheat.Foreachpancake,ladle2tablespoonsofbatterintothepanandpressdowngently.Youshouldgetsmallishpancakes,about3inchesindiameterand3/8 inchthick.Cookforabout2minutesoneachside,oruntilyougetagoodgolden-greencolor.Transfer topaper towelsandkeepwarm.Continuemakingpancakes,addingoiltothepanasneeded,untilthebatterisusedup.

Toserve,pileupthreewarmpancakesperpersonandplaceasliceofflavoredbutterontoptomelt.

Watercress,pistachioandorangeblossomsalad

Iwouldeitherstartamealorenditwiththissalad.Itisanidealpalate-cleanserwith its robust yet refreshingherb flavors.Or, you could serve it to balance along-cookedorrichmaincourse,suchastheSmokyfrittata.Anotherideaistoadd spoonfuls of buffalo ricotta to transform the salad into amore substantialstarter.

It is essential to dress the salad as you serve it and not a second earlier: thedelicate herbs wilt in an instant when they come in contact with the acidicdressing.

Serves4

Dressing4tbspoliveoil11/2tbsplemonjuice(ormoreifyoulikeitverysour)1tsporange-flowerwater

saltandblackpepper31/2cupswatercress,thickstalksremovedscant1cupbasilleaves11/2cupscilantroleaves1/4cupdill1/4 cup tarragon leaves 1/3 cup shelled unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted and

coarselycrushedTo make the dressing. In a little bowl whisk together all of the dressingingredients.

Placethewatercressandherbsinalargemixingbowlandsetasideuntilyouarereadytoservethesalad(youcanleavetheminthefridgeinanairtightcontainerforafewhours).

Just before serving, pour the dressing and the pistachios over the leaves, tossgentlyandserveimmediately.

Egg,spinachandpecorinopizza

Thisstartedoffasatakeonmanakish,aLevantineflatbreadtoppedwithza’atarandoftenalsocontaininghalloumi-stylecheeseormincedlamb.Myversionisso far removed from the original that it doesn’t warrant the use of the name.Still, the za’atar and sumac give this “pizza” an earthyMiddle Eastern kick,reminiscentofthearomascomingfrombreadstallsinEastJerusalem.

You’llprobablyfinditdifficulttofitthesixindividualpizzasintoyourovenallatonce:you’dneedthreebakingsheetslargeenoughtotaketwopizzaseach.Ifyou haven’t got them, bake the individual pizzas in batches or make threedouble-sizedpizzas.

Serves6(makes6individualpizzas)

21/2 tspdriedyeast13/4cups tepidwater (nohotter than86°F)51/2cupswhitebreadflour,plusextrafordusting11/4tspsalt

1/3cupoliveoil2lbsspinach,washed1lbpecorino,grated11/2tbspsumac11/2tbspza’atarcoarsesaltandblackpepper6eggs

Dissolve the yeast in thewater.Add to the flour togetherwith the salt and 2tablespoonsoftheoliveoil.Kneadbyhandorinaheavyelectricmixerfor8to10minutes,addingalittlebitmoreflourifthedoughissticky;itshouldbecomesmoothandsilky.Brushalargebowlwithabitofoil,putthedoughinsideandcoverwithawettowel.Leavetoriseinawarmishplacefor1to2hours,oruntilthedoughdoublesinsize.

Whenready,dividethedoughintosixsimilarlysizedpieces.Usearollingpintoroll each into a disc that is roughly 1/4 inch thick and 7 inches in diameter.Transfertobakingsheetsdustedwithabitofflourandleavetoriseagaininawarmplaceforabout30minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wilt the spinach in a large saucepan with 4tablespoonsoftheoliveoil.Allowtocooldown,thensqueezeoutalltheliquidfromthespinach.

Scatterthecheeseevenlyoverthepizzabasesandspreadthespinachoverthis,making a slightwell in the center to break the egg into later on. Sprinkle thesumac, za’atar andblackpepperon top.Drizzle about11/2 teaspoonsoliveoilovereachpizza.

Bakefor12to15minutes,oruntil thecrust turnsanicebrown.Removefromtheovenandquicklybreakawholeeggintothecenterofeachpizza.Useaforkto spread thewhite around, keeping the yolkwhole. Sprinklewith coarse saltandreturntotheoventobakefor5minutes,orjustuntilthewhitessetbuttheyolksarestillrunny.Serveatonce.

CaramelizedendivewithGruyère

WhenIfirstpublishedthisrecipeintheGuardianin2007IusedTaleggioandwas perfectly happywith it. Still, when I tried the dish again for this book Idecided to double-check which cheese variety worked best. Taleggio was awinner for its creaminess and its ability to penetrate in between the endiveleaves.But I choseGruyère in theendbecause itspiquant flavorworksbetterwith the endive’s bitterness. You can now make your choice. Another, lesscheesyoptionisraclette,whichwasborntomelt.

Serves4

1tbspoliveoil11/2tbspbutter1/2tspsugarsalt4endives,cutinhalflengthways2tspthymeleaves,finelychopped7ozGruyère,sliced

11/2tspfreshbreadcrumbsblackpepper

Preheattheovento375°F.Placeaheavy,flatpanonmediumheat.Addtheoil,butter,sugarandapinchofsalt,andallowtoheatup.

Placetheendivehalves,cut-sidedown,inthepan.Donotmovethemfor3to5minutes, or until they turn deep golden. (You might need to do this in twobatchesastheendivesneedspace.)Removefromtheheat.Transfertheendivehalves to a small ovenproof dish, arranging them cut-side up, close together.Sprinklewithhalfthethyme.Placetheslicesofcheeseontopandsprinklewiththerestofthethyme.

Placeintheoventobakefor8to12minutes,oruntilthecheesestartstobubble.Removefromtheoven.Sprinklewiththebreadcrumbsandsomeblackpepper.Return to the oven, increase the temperature to 400°F and bake for 5 to 7minutes,oruntilthebreadcrumbsbrown.Servehot.

Grapeleaf,herbandyogurtpie

Whenever Iwalk into a bookshop I findmyself in the cookery sectionwithinseconds;it’sanurgeIcan’tcontrol.OnarecentvisittoasecondhandbookshopinHay-on-Wye,thecapitalofbookshops,Icameacrossarealtreasure,ClassicTurkishCookerybyGhillieBaan,publishedin1995.Thisbookoffersafantasticintroductiontooneof theworld’smostaccomplishedcuisinesandit ispackedfull of recipes you just know youmust try. It is there that I came across thisunusual savory cake originating from the Turkish part of Cyprus. It makes asubstantialsnackoralightstarter.ServewithBurntEggplantwithTahini.

Serves4

20to25grapeleaves(freshorfromajar)4shallots,finelychopped4tbspoliveoil11/2tbspunsaltedbutter,melted1cupGreekyogurt,plusextratoserve

21/2tbsppinenuts,lightlytoasted1/2tbspfinelychoppedtarragon2tbspfinelychoppedparsley

3tbspfinelychoppeddill4tbspfinelychoppedmintgratedzestof1lemon1tbsplemonjuicesaltandblackpepper1/2cupriceflour3tbspdriedbreadcrumbs(preferablypanko)

Preheattheovento375°F.Placethegrapeleavesinashallowbowl,coverwithboilingwaterandleavefor10minutes.Thenremovetheleavesfromthewateranddrythemwellwithateatowel.Usescissorstotrimoffanddiscardthebitofhardstalkatthebaseofeachleaf.

Sauté the shallots in1 tablespoonof theoil for about8minutes,oruntil lightbrown.Leavetocooldown.

Takea roundandshallowovenproofdish that is roughly8 inches indiameter,andcoveritsbottomandsideswithgrapeleaves,slightlyoverlappingthemandallowingtheleavestohangovertherimofthedish.Mixthemeltedbutterwith2 tablespoonsofoliveoil;useabout two-thirdsof this togenerouslybrush theleavesliningthedish.

Mixtogetherinabowltheshallots,yogurt,pinenuts,choppedherbsandlemonzestandjuice,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Thenaddthericeflourandmixwelluntilyougetahomogenouspaste.Spreadthispasteevenlyinthebakingdish.

Foldtheoverhanginggrapeleavesbackoverthetopofthefillingsotheycoverthe edges, then cover the filling completely with the remaining grape leaves.Brushwith the rest of the butter andoilmix.Finally, scatter the breadcrumbsoverthetopanddrizzleovertheremaining1tablespoonoliveoil.

Bake for 40 minutes, or until the leaves crisp up and the breadcrumbs turn

goldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandleavetorestforatleast10minutes.Cut intowedges and servewarmish or at room temperature,with a dollop offreshyogurt.

NuttyendivewithRoquefort

Youreallyneedtogetyourhandsdirtyhere.Theflavoredcrèmefraîchehastocover every bit of endive leaf in order to flavor it properly, because endive’sfresh,wateryandslightlybitternatureasksforalotofrichdressing.OntopofthatIaddbutter-toastednuts,awelcomeadditiontoalmostanysalad,tomakethisatrulysumptuousstarter.

A note about Roquefort and other European cheeses: as a general rule, mostcontinental cheeses use rennet, a cluster of enzymes taken from animals’stomachsthatcausesmilktocoagulateandeventuallyformintocheese.Britishcheeses tend to be based on vegetarian alternatives to rennet. Here, as in allrecipeswithcheese,Iencourageastrictvegetariantocheckthoroughlywhetherthevarietyiscompletelyvegetarianand,ifnot,tolookforalternatives;thesecanoftenbefoundonline.

Serves4asastarter

13/4 oz Roquefort or another strong blue cheese 3/4 cup crème fraîche whitepepper

1/3cuproughlychoppedpinenuts1/3cuproughlychoppedwalnuts1tspbuttersalt2endivesafewleavesofradicchio,Trevisoorbabychard

Grate the Roquefort on a coarse grater and place in a bowl with the crèmefraîche and some white pepper. Use a whisk to mix thoroughly to a thickmixture.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.

Inahotfryingpanlightlytoastthenutswiththebutterandpinchofsalt.Keepshakingthepantogetanevengoldencoloronallthenuts.Leavetocool.

Trim thebaseof theendivesandpickoff theouter leaves.Trimabitmore toremovemoreleavesuntilyougettothecore.Usingyourhands,smeareachleafwithplentyof theRoquefortmix.Formbundlesof six to eight leavespressedtogether,eachleafpartlyencasedinalargerone.

Lineaservingdishwithsomeredleaves.Placeafewbundlesofendiveontop,stackingthemorleaningthemstandingagainsteachother.Sprinklegenerouslywiththetoastednutsandserve.

Bittersweetsalad

I don’t usually celebrate Valentine’s Day. This is due to cowardly cynicism,combinedwith a firmbelief that you cannot just create amomentous intimateoccasion,especiallywhenmillionsofothercouplesaretryingtodoexactlythesame.Itjustfeelsabitclaustrophobic.Butifyoutwistedmyarmandforcedmeto,IguessIwouldchoosethissaladtocelebratetheday,representingthemorerealisticflavorsoflove:bitterandsweet.

The themehere is red.For thissaladI’dgooutofmyway tofindanexcitingcombinationofredleavesandherbs.Ilovethelong,twistedredleavesofsomevarieties of radicchio di Treviso. Red orach, purple basil, red amaranth andbull’sblood(red)chardarealsostunningleaves.Sometinysproutingvarieties,

suchasradishorpurplebasil,willalsoaddcharacter.

Serves2(ofcourse)

2bloodoranges(orplainoranges)bloodorangejuiceasneeded11/4tbsplemonjuice1/4cupmaplesyrupcoarseseasalt1/2tsporange-flowerwater1/2smallradicchio1smallTreviso,leavesseparated1tbspoliveoilblackpepperhandfulofsmallredleaves3/4cupgood-qualityricotta2tbsppinenuts,toastedseedsfrom1smallpomegranate

Takeeachof thebloodorangesin turnanduseasmallsharpknife tosliceoffthe top and base. Now cut down the side of the orange, following its naturalcurve,toremovetheskinandwhitepith.Overasmallbowl,cutinbetweenthemembranes to remove the individual segments into the bowl. Squeeze all thejuicefromthemembraneandskinintoasmallsaucepan.

Makeup the juice in thepan to7 tbspwithextrabloodorange juice.Add thelemonjuice,maplesyrupandapinchofsaltandbringtoalightsimmer.Leavetoreducefor20to25minutes,oruntilyouareleftwithabout3tablespoonsofthicksyrup.Strainitthroughafinesieveandallowtocooldown,thenstirintheorange-flowerwater.

Pullaparttheradicchioleavesandtearthemroughlyintolargepieces.Putintoamixing bowl. Add the Treviso leaves, oil and some salt and pepper, and tossgently.Dividethesaladleavesbetweentwoservingplates.Dotwiththeorangesegments, small red leaves and spoonfuls of ricotta, building the salad up.Drizzlewiththeorangesyrupandfinishwithpinenutsandpomegranateseeds.

GreenThings

Cucumbersaladwithsmashedgarlicandginger

Ihaveaterriblehabitofaddingyogurtorsourcreamtoalmostanythingthat’sbeen cooking for a long time, has got a lot of heat, is slightly greasy or just

seems a bit heavy tome. Terrible - because I know not everyone is keen onaddingdairyproducts left, rightandcenter,particularlynot toaperfectlynicedishofpulses,aspicyvegetablesteworaroastedcutofleanmeat.Sohere’saperfectalternative,adishshoutingfreshness thatwouldgowellwithplentyofheartydishes.TryitwithSweetPotatoCakesorwithCoconutRicewithSambalandOkra.

Serves4-6asacondimentorasidedish

Dressing3tbspricewinevinegar2tspsugar2tbspsunfloweroil2tsptoastedsesameoil

1smallredonion,verythinlysliced11/2inchesfreshginger,peeledandsliced1tspMaldonseasalt2largegarliccloves,peeled4small(or8mini)cucumbers(11/4lbs),peeled1tbsptoastedsesameseeds3tbspchoppedcilantro

Tomakethedressing.Whisktogetherall thedressingingredientsinamediummixingbowl.

Addtheslicedredonion,mixwellandleaveasidetomarinateforaboutanhour.

Placethegingerandsaltinamortarandpoundwellwithapestle.Addthegarlicandcontinuepoundinguntilitisalsowellcrushedandbrokenintopieces(stoppounding before it disintegrates into a paste). Use a spatula to scrape thecontentsofthemortarintothebowlwiththeonionanddressing.Stirtogether.

Cut thecucumbers lengthways inhalf, thencuteachhalfonanangle into1/4-inch-thickslices.Addthecucumbertothebowl,followedbythesesameseedsandcilantro.Stirwellandleavetositfor10minutes.

Before serving, stir the salad again, tip out some of the liquid that hasaccumulatedatthebottomofthebowlandadjusttheseasoning.

Lemonyglobeartichokes

This is amajestic dish, perfect for startingoff a light summer’s supper.Eat itwarmoratroomtemperature,onitsownorwithsomegoodmayonnaise.

Serves4

4mediumglobeartichokes4lemons,halved3/4cupdill,finelychopped1/2cuptarragon(leavesandstalks),finelychopped

1/2cupparsley(leavesandstalks),finelychopped1onion,finelychoppedsaltandblackpepper6tbspoliveoil13/4cupsgreenpeas(freshorfrozen)1/2tspsugar1garlicclove,crushed

Trimofftheartichokestalksclosetothebase,sothatlatertheycansitflatinthepan.Tearoffanddiscardthethickouterleaves,thenuseasmallsharpknifetotrimandtidythebase.Cuteachartichokeverticallyinhalf.Removeanddiscardthehairychokeandsomeoftheinternalpurpleleaves,tocreateacavityintheheartoftheartichoke.Ruballthecutsurfacesimmediatelywiththejuiceofonelemonandplaceinabowlofcoldwater.

Mix the chopped herbs and onion with plenty of salt and pepper. Drain theartichokesandstuffthecavityineachhalfwiththeherbmixsothatitisfullbutlevelled.Keeptheexcessstuffing.Reshapeeachartichokeandusestringtotiethehalvesbacktogetherclosely.

Stand the four reconstructed artichokes in a saucepan just big enough to holdthem close together.Add the juice of two lemons, the squeezed lemon halvesandplentyofsalt.Fillwithwateralmosttocovertheartichokes,leavingthetop1/4inchoutofthewater.Simmeronlowheatfor20to35minutes,makingsuretheartichokebottomsarealwaysimmersedinwater(keepthepancoverediftheartichokesarenottoobig;otherwisetopupwithwaterduringthecooking).To

checkiftheyaredone,stickinaknifeatthebase.Theartichokeheartshouldbesoftthroughout.Gentlylifttheartichokesfromthepanandleavetodrainfor5minutes.

Meanwhile,sautétheremainingstuffingwith4tablespoonsoftheoliveoilforabout3minutes.Addthepeas,sugar,garlicand5tablespoonsoftheartichokecookingliquid.Cookfor2minutesmore,thentasteandaddsaltandpepperasneeded.Addthejuiceoftheremaininglemon(ormoreifyoulike).

Transfer thewarmartichokes to servingplates and remove the string.Pile thelemonypeasontop,drizzlegenerouslywithoilandserve.

Asparagus,fennelandbeetswithverjus

Verjus,orverjuice,isasourjuicemadefromunripegrapes.ItwasverypopularinmedievaltimesandisstillusedformakingsaucesinafewtraditionalFrenchdishes. I was reminded of it by Ramael Scully, the former evening chef ofOttolenghi in Islington.Scully trainedas a chef inAustralia,whereverjushasbeenregainingpopularity in recentyearsasanalternative tovinegar insaucesand dressings, mainly thanks to the food writer Maggie Beer. Here, reducedverjus,withitssweetnessandmildacidity,workswonderswithrawvegetables.

Serves4asastarter

4minibeets(about1/4lb)11/3cupsverjus4tbspgrapeseedoilsaltandblackpepper4to5ozfreshpencil-thinasparagus,ornormalasparagus1/2 large fennelbulb (1/4 lb),halvedvertically1/4cuppinenuts, toasted1 tbsp

dillleavestogarnish

Preheattheovento400°F.Trimmostofthestalkfromthebeets,leavingalittleat the topof eachbeet for the look.Put them into anovenproofdish, cover itwithfoilandbakeforabout45minutes,oruntil thebeetsarecookedthrough.Remove from the oven and leave to cool down before cutting into halves orquarters(youmaywanttopeelthemiftheskinistough).

Pour the verjus into a small saucepan, bring to a light simmer and leave it toreduce to about 3 tablespoons. Transfer to a mixing bowl and allow to cooldown,thenwhiskinthegrapeseedoilandsaltandpeppertotaste.Putaside.

Ifusingnormalasparagus,cutthespearsonasharpangleintolongandverythinslices,oruseapotatopeelertomake“shavings.”Placethefennelhalfcut-sidedownonamandolinandshaveintopaper-thinslices.Thesliceswillhaveahandshape.

To assemble, arrange the vegetables on small serving plates. Scatter the pinenutsontopanddrizzleoverthedressing.Garnishwithdillandserve.

Caramelizedfennelwithgoatcheese

Goat’s curd, a light cheesemade from goat’s milk, is known for its soft andcreamy, yet not terribly unctuous, texture and for itswonderful freshness. It’shardtoget,though.You’llwanttoaskaroundatyourlocalfarmers’marketoragoodcheeseshop.

Still, there is no need to get despondent if you can’t find it. There is anabundanceofyoungand freshgoatcheeses thatwilldo the trickequallywell.MyfavoriteisCaprinifreschi,fromPiedmontinItaly.

Serves4

4smallfennelbulbs31/2tbspunsaltedbutter3tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish2tbspsugar1tspfennelseedscoarseseasaltandblackpepper1garlicclove,crushed3/4 cup roughly chopped dill (leaves and stalks) 5 oz young and creamy goat

cheesegratedzestof1lemon

Startbypreparingthefennelbulbs.Firsttakeofftheleafyfrondsandkeepthemfor thegarnish.Then sliceoff someof the rootpart and removeany toughorbrown outer layers, making sure the base still holds everything together. Cuteachbulblengthwaysinto1/2-inch-thickslices.

Melthalfthebutterwithhalftheoilinalargefryingpanplacedoverhighheat.Whenthebutterstartstofoamaddalayerofslicedfennel.Donotovercrowdthepananddon’tturnthefenneloverorstiritaroundinthepanuntilonesidehasbecomelightgolden,whichwilltakeabout2minutes.Thenturntheslicesoverusing tongs and cook for a further 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the pan.Continuewiththerestofthefennel,usinguptheremainingbutterandoil.

Onceall the fennelhasbeen seared, add the sugar, fennel seedsandplentyofsaltandpeppertothepan.Fryfor30seconds,thenreturnallthefennelslicestothepanandcaramelizethemgentlyfor1to2minutes(theyneedtoremainfirminsidesojustallowthemtobecoatedinthemeltingsugarandseeds).Removethefennelfromthepanandleavetocooldownonaplate.

Toserve,tossthefennelinabowlwiththegarlicanddill.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.Arrange on a serving plate and dotwith spoonfuls of goat cheese.Finish with a drizzle of oil and a scattering of lemon zest. Garnish with thefennelfronds.Serveatroomtemperature.

Globeartichokeswithcrushedfavabeans

My grandmother, Luciana Ottolenghi, formerly Cohen, who’s had a hugeinfluence on my taste buds and on my dad’s cooking, was born to a Jewishfamily fromRome. In this recipe I payhomage to thewayRoman Jews cooktheir artichokes, deep-frying them in olive oil, although I take it in a totallydifferentdirection.

Serves2asastarter

13/4cupsshelledfavabeans(freshorfrozen)1smallgarlicclove,crushedgood-qualityextra-virginoliveoil11/2tspMaldonseasaltblackpepper2to3globeartichokes,dependingonsizejuiceof3lemons,plus2extralemonhalvestoserve1egg,beaten3tbsppanko3tbspchoppedmint2tbspchoppeddill

Startwith the favabeans.Bringa saucepanofwater to theboil.Throw in thebeansandblanchfor3minutes.Drain,refreshundercoldwaterandleaveinthecolander to dry. Once cool and dry, remove the outer skins of the beans bypressingeachgentlybetweenyourthumbandforefinger.Discardtheskins.

Put the shelled beans into the bowl of a food processor. Add the garlic, 4tablespoonsoliveoil,1/2teaspoonofthesaltandsomeblackpepper,andcrushthebeansroughly ina fewpulses (youcanalsodo thisbyhandusinga fork).Makesureyoudon’tprocessthemintoapurée.Setaside.

Topreparetheartichokes,cutoffmostofthestalkandpulloffthetoughouterleaves.Onceyou reach the softer, pale leaves, take a sharp serratedknife andtrimoff the topsoyouare leftwith thebaseonly.Scrape itcleanwitha littlesharpknife,removinganyremainingtoughleavesandthehairychoke.Youcannowcuttheresultingheartsinhalforleavethemwhole.Rubthemalloverwith

thejuiceofoneofthelemonsandplaceinabowlofcoldwater.Addthejuiceofanotherlemonandallthesqueezedlemonhalves.

Bringamediumsaucepanofwater to theboil.Carefullydrop in theartichokeheartsandsimmerfor7to10minutes,oruntilaknifewillpiercethemeasily.Drainwellanddryonadishtowel.Placetheartichokeheartsinabowlwiththebeaten egg and mix well. Spread the panko on a plate and season with 1teaspoonsalt.Lifttheartichokesfromthebowlwithaforkandintothepanko.Coattheminthecrumbs.

Pourenougholiveoilintoasmallsaucepantocome11/4inchesupthesidesandheatupuntilalmostsmoking.Addacoupleofartichokesatatimetothehotoiland fry for about 4 minutes, or until golden, turning them to color evenly.Transfertoaplatelinedwithpapertowelsandsprinklewithalittlesalt.

Stir thechoppedherbsandthe juiceof the third lemoninto thecrushedbeans.Spoonsomeovereachservingplate.Placeoneor twoartichokepieceson topandspoonmorecrushedbeansontoporaround.Finishwithadrizzleofoliveoilandservewithalemonhalf.

Artichokegratin

I am all for frozen vegetables, especially when used for hearty, long-cookeddisheslikethisone.Here,inparticular,you’llsaveyourselftonsofworkifyoucan get a couple of bags of frozen artichoke hearts, without sacrificingmuchflavor.ServethegratinwithLettuceSalad.

Serves4-6

13/4 lbs frozen artichoke hearts, thawed, or about 20 medium-sized globeartichokesgratedzestandjuiceof4largelemons

2mediumonions,thinlysliced1/4cupoliveoilsaltandblackpepper3tbspchoppedthyme6tbspchoppedparsley

Béchamel4tbspunsaltedbutter1/3cupplus1tbspall-purposeflour1cupwater1cupmilk3/4tspsalt

3/4cupricotta6tbspgratedParmesan

Ifusingfreshartichokes,preparethemfirst.Useyourhandstopulloffthehardouter leaves until you reach the centerwith its small softer leaves.Rub aboutone-thirdof the lemon juiceon theartichokesasyouclean them.Useasmall,sharpserratedknifetotrimoffalltheleaves,thenscrapeawaythehairychokefromthecenter.Discardtheleavesandchoke.

Cut the artichoke hearts (freshly prepared or frozen) into 1/4-inch-thick slices.Putatonceintoapotwithplentyofwaterandallthelemonjuice(youmayhave

used some already when cleaning the fresh artichokes; add whatever is left).Bring to the boil and simmer for about 5minutes, or until the artichokes aretender(thefrozenoneswon’ttakeaslongasthefresh).Drain.

Whiletheartichokesarecooking,puttheonionsinapanwiththeoliveoilandsome salt and pepper. Cook on medium heat for about 10 minutes, or untilgolden, stirring occasionally.Add the onions and oil to the cooked artichokestogetherwith the lemonzest, thymeandparsley.Stirgently tomix.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepper,ifyoulike.Setaside.

Preheattheovento375°F.

Tomake thebéchamel.Melt thebutter inasmallsaucepan.Addtheflourandcookonmediumheat,stirringall thetime,forabout2minutes.Makesurethemix doesn’t brown much. Mix the water and milk and slowly add to thesaucepanasyouwhisk.Addthesaltandkeeponcookingandwhiskingonlowheatforabout10minutes,oruntilthesauceisthickandcreamy.

Gently mix together the artichokes and béchamel, then pour into a smallovenproof dish that’s been lightly greased with oil. Make small holes in theartichokemixandintoeachdropabout1teaspoonfulofricotta.Coverthedishwithfoilandbakefor30minutes.

Remove the foil and scatter the Parmesan over the top. Increase the oventemperature to 400°F. Continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes, or until theParmesanturnsgoldenbrownandthebéchamelisbubblingaway.Removefromtheovenandservehotorwarm.

Okrawithtomato,lemonandcilantro

Here’s a secret ingredient I pick up from the freezer of aLebanesemarket inLondon: tiny Egyptian okra, perfectly firm, packed with flavor. Almost asimportant,itcomesalreadytrimmed.

Serves4

4tbspoliveoil11/2tspcorianderseeds1mediumonion,thinlysliced2redbellpeppers,cutinto3/8-inch-widestrips1mildfreshredchile,seededandchopped3/4cupchoppedparsleyleaves3/4cupchoppedcilantroleaves2largetomatoes,

chopped(or13/4cupscanned)3/4cupwater1tspsweetpaprika2tspsugarsalt4cupsokra(freshorfrozen)3tbspfinelychoppedskinofpreservedlemon30pittedblackolives,eachcutinhalf11/2tbsplemonjuice1tbspshreddedmint

Preheattheovento400°F.Heatup2tablespoonsoftheoilinalargesaucepan.Addthecorianderseedsandonionandsautéonmediumheatfor10minutes,oruntiltheonionsoftenswithoutcoloring.Addtheredpeppers,chile,parsleyandhalfthechoppedcilantro.Cookandstirforafurther5minutes.

Next,addthetomatoes,water,paprika,sugarandsalttotaste.Leavetosimmer,covered, for 15 minutes. Remove the lid and continue cooking for about 5minutes,oruntilthesauceisthickandhaslostmostoftheexcessliquid.

Whilemakingthetomatosauce,preparetheokra(incaseyoucouldn’tgetanyofthepreparedfrozenvariety).Takeasmallpointyknifeandcarefullyremovethe stemend; try not to cut very low, keeping the endof the stem to seal themain body of the fruit so the seeds are not exposed. Mix the okra with theremaining 2 tablespoons of oil and some salt and spread over a roasting pan.Roastfor15to20minutes,oruntiljusttenderbutstillfirm.

Add the cooked okra to the tomato sauce. Stir gently, also mixing in thepreserved lemon,olives andhalf of the remaining choppedcilantro.Taste andadjusttheseasoning.

Youcanservethedishwarmwithsteamedbulgurwheatorcouscous,orleavetocooldownandserveat roomtemperaturewithbreadandothermezze. Inbothcases,mixinthelemonjuicejustbeforeservingandgarnishwiththeremainingcilantroandthemint.

Greengazpacho

There are amillion recipes around for gazpacho,which is by farmy favoritecoldsoup.Thisone,agreenvariation,islooselybasedontarator,acoldyogurtandcucumbersoupfromtheBalkans.Aproperfree-standingblenderworksbestherebutanimmersionblendercouldalsobeused.

Serves6

Croutons2thickslicessourdoughbread4tbspoliveoilsalt

2celerystalks(includingtheleaves)2smallgreenbellpeppers,seeded6minicucumbers(11/4lbs),peeled3slicesstalewhitebread,crustsremoved1freshgreenchile(orlessifyoudon’twantittoohot)4garliccloves1tspsugar11/2cupswalnuts,lightlytoasted6cupsbabyspinach1cupbasilleaves2tbspchoppedparsley4tbspsherryvinegar1cupoliveoil3tbspGreekyogurtabout2cupswater9ozicecubes2tspsalt

whitepepper

Tomake the croutons. Preheat the oven to 375°F.Cut the bread into 3/4-inchcubesandtossthemwiththeoilandabitofsalt.Spreadonabakingsheetandbakeforabout10minutes,oruntilthecroutonsturngoldenandcrisp.Removefromtheovenandallowtocooldown.

Roughlychopthecelery,bellpeppers,cucumbers,bread,chileandgarlic.Placein a blender and add the sugar, walnuts, spinach, basil, parsley, vinegar, oil,yogurt,most of thewater, half the ice cubes, the salt and somewhite pepper.Blitz the soup until smooth.Addmorewater, if needed, to get your preferredconsistency.Tastethesoupandadjusttheseasoning.

Lastly, add the remaining ice and pulse once or twice, just to crush it a little.Serveatonce,withthecroutons.

Asparagusmimosa

This traditional way with asparagus is probablymy favorite. It is simple andtherefore relies on the quality of the asparagus itselfmore than anything else.Seeifyoucangetthespearsfromafarmers’marketortheshopatafarmwheretheyhavebeenfreshlypicked.Roughlychoppedtarragonsprinkledontopwillmakeagoodaddition.

Serves4asastarter

2eggs2bunchesofmediumasparagus2tbspgood-qualityoliveoil2tspsmallcapers,drained1tspMaldonseasaltblackpepper

Gentlyplaceyoureggsinasaucepanofboilingwaterandsimmerfor9minutes.Removetheeggsfromthepanandimmersetheminalargebowlofcoldwater.After a few minutes, take them out of the water and leave to cool downcompletely.Peeltheeggsandgratethemonacoarsecheesegrater.

Bendtheasparagusuntilthetoughbottomendssnapoff;discardtheends.Placethespearsinalargepotofboilingwaterandcookfor3minutes,oruntiltender.Itmaytakeslightlylongeriftheyarethick.

Drain and, while still warm but not hot, divide among four serving plates.Drizzle the oil over the asparagus and sprinklewith the capers, salt and somepepper.Topwiththegratedegg,stayingclosetothecenterofthestalkssothatthetipsandbasesremainvisible.

Char-grilledasparagus

Hereasparagusspearsaresimplycookedonaridgedgriddlepan.Thefactthatthey are not boiled means that they keep more of their original flavor. Thetexture,though,isslightlymoresinewythanwhenboilingorsteaming.Isuggestusingamildfeta,nottoosalty,oranothertypeofmildsheep’scheesefromtheBalkans.Servewarm,asastarter,oraspartofamezzespread.

Serves4

2bunchesofasparagus2tbspgrapeseedoil,plusextratofinish1tspMaldonseasaltblackpepper8 thin slices good-quality feta (21/2 oz in total), or a few spoonfuls of ricotta

gratedzestof1lemon

Snap off the tough ends of the asparagus and discard. Toss the spears in thegrapeseedoilandsprinklewiththesaltandsomepepper.Laytheasparagusinahotgriddlepan,placingthemperpendiculartotheridgesofthepan.Cookfor6to9minutes,turningoccasionally,oruntiljustaldenteandlightlycharred.

Arrangetheasparagusonfourservingplates.Addtheslicesoffetaanddrizzlesomegrapeseedoilontopandaroundtheplate.Finishwiththelemonzestandabitofblackpepper.

Asparagusvichyssoise

Myloveforcoldsoupscomesfrommyparents.WhenIwasachildmymotherusedtomakethemostrefreshinggazpachoforus,toalleviatethedryheatoftheJerusalem summer. It was marvelous - a little sweet, a little sour and totallylight.WhenIrecentlyshutmyselfupatmyparents’house,tofinallygetonwithalltherecipeintrosforthisbook,myfathermadeoneofhisgloriouscreations:acoldcreamysoupofpotato,freshlypickedbasil,cucumberchunksandloadsofgoat’smilkyogurtfromtheneighboringgoatfarm.IamafraidIcan’treplicatethisinLondon.

The ideal time for makingmy cold soup is toward the end of the asparagusseason,intheearlysummer,whenthespearsareoftenthickandwoodyandnotgoodenoughtoeatastheyare.Servewithcrustybreaddippedinoliveoil.

Serves4

1mediumpotato2mediumleeks1lbasparagus11/2tbspunsaltedbutter21/2cupsgood-qualityvegetablestock1tspsugarsaltandwhitepepper3tbspheavycream6tbspGreekyogurtgratedzestof1/2lemonPeelthepotatoanddiceroughly.Chopoffanddiscardthetoughgreenendsoftheleeks.Cutthroughthepalecenter,thenwashandsliceroughly.Trimoffanddiscardthewoodybaseoftheasparagus.Cutallbutthreeofthespearsinto3/4-inchpieces,keepingthetipsseparate.Reservewholespears.

Placethevegetables,exceptfortheasparagustips,withthebutterinamediumsaucepanandsautéonmediumheatforabout4minutes;makesuretheydon’ttake on any color.Cover the vegetableswith the stock and add the sugar andsome salt and white pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, for 40minutes.Attheendofthistimeaddtheasparagustipsandcontinuecookingfor

10minutes.

Oncedone,blitzthesoupwellinablenderuntilverysmooth.Gentlyfoldinthecreamandhalf theyogurt.Allow the soup to come to room temperature, thenchill.

Whilethesoupiscoolingdown,bringapanofwatertotheboilandblanchthereservedasparagusfor2minutes;drainandrefreshunderplentyofcoldwater.Shred.

Pourthecoldsoupintobowls.Spoonadollopofyogurtontopofeachandswirlwiththetipofaskewer.Placetheshreddedasparagusinthecenterandgarnishwithlemonzest.

Meegoreng

AlloverMalaysiaaprofusionofstreetfoodisservedinbigopen-aircomplexes.Thedifferentstallspreparecheap,cheerfulandincrediblydeliciousdishesfromMalay,ChineseorIndiancuisines.Sinceeverythingissotemptingyouoftenendupwithatablestillpiledwithdelicaciesandnostomachcapacity.Theattractionof this type of dining is that it is both fresh and complex. Many dishes arepreparedfromrawinfrontofyoureyes,usinggreatingredients,whichmakesitfar superior tomanyWestern solutions for fast food. I was guided through arecentMalaysianadventurebyHelenGohandheraffectionatefamily,theLees,whohavetaughtmemanyculinarysecrets.

ThisMalaydishtakesonlyafewminutestomake(onceyouhavealittlebitofprepoutoftheway)andisuniqueinitsmanylayersanddepthofflavors.Ifyouwant to servemore than two people you’ll need to start again with a secondbatch,becausedoublequantitieswillbetoomuchforonewok.

Serves2

2tbsppeanutoil1/2onion,diced8ozfirmtofu,cutinto3/8-inch-thickstrips4ozgreenbeans,trimmedandcutinhalfatanangle4ozchoisum(orbokchoy),cutintolargechunks(bothleavesandstalks)11oz

fresheggnoodles11/2tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcumin2tspsambaloelek(oranothersavorychilepaste),plusextratoserve2tspthick

soysauce2tsplightsoysauce1tbspwater2ozMungbeansproutshandfulofshreddediceberglettuce1tbspcrisp-friedshallotslemonwedgestoserve

Setawokoralargepanonhighheat.Oncehot,addtheoilandthentheonion,andcookforabout1minutetosoftenabit.AddthetofuandFrenchbeansandcookfor2to3minutestogivethetofuabitofcolor.Stirgentlyasyoucook,tryingnottobreakupthetofu.

Next,addthechoisum.Whenitwiltsaddthenoodlesandcarefullyspreadtheminthewokusingtongsorlargechopsticks.Youwantthenoodlestogetalotofheat,almost tofry.Mixgently,cooking thenoodlesforabout2minutes.Nowadd the spices, sambal oelek, soy sauces, water and bean sprouts and tosscarefully.Cookforaboutaminute,oruntilthenoodlesaresemisoft.

Whenready, topwith lettuce, transfer toservingbowlsandsprinklewithcrispshallots.Ontheside,servelemonwedgesandasmallbowlofextrasambalolek.

Sobanoodleswithwakame

In2009ItravelledtoTokyowiththesolepurposeofeating.IhavealwayslikedJapanese foodbut this time Iwasblownaway,completely takenoverby foodandby the fact that the Japanese, like no other culture that I knowof, areallfoodies.Itwasfantasticbeinginthecompanyofsomanywho,justlikeme,arewilling to lineupfor thebestspongecake in theworld, thefinestsliceof rawfish or the greatest soba noodles. The latter I tasted, along with dozens ofbusinessmen in fancy suits, atYabusoba, an unassuming restaurant in the oldneighborhoodofKanda.

Sobanoodles,madeofbuckwheat,areoftenservedcoldwithaflavorfuldippingsauce.Wakameisaseavegetablewithamildsaltyflavorandaslurpytexture.Othervarietiesofseaweedcanbeusedassubstituteshere.Or,ifoceanflavorisnotyourthing,replacewiththinlyslicedradishes.

Serves4-6

2largecucumbers(skinon)2tspsalt11ozsobanoodlesone2-ozpackagewakame

Sauce2tbspricevinegargratedzestof2limes1/4cuplimejuice1tbspgratedfreshginger2freshredchiles,finelychopped(orlessifyoudon’tlikeittoohot)1tbsppalm

sugar2tbsptoastedsesameoil2tbsppeanutoil1tbspsweetchilesauce1garlicclove,crushed3/4tspsalt

1/2cuptoastedsesameseeds2cupscilantroleaves,roughlychopped3/4 cup mint leaves, roughly chopped 11/3 cups radish sprouts, plus extra to

garnish

Shred the cucumbers using a mandolin or the shredding blade in a foodprocessor.Placethethinstripsinacolander,sprinklewiththesaltandstirwell,thenleavetodrainforatleast30minutes.

Put the noodles in a pan of boilingwater and cook for 4 to 5minutes, or asinstructedon thepacket.Drainand rinse in a streamof coldwater to stop thecooking.Leavetodry.

Soak thewakame inwarmwater for about 10minutes, or until it softens up;drain. Remove the tough “stalks” and discard. Cut or tear the rest into largepiecesandputintoalargemixingbowl.Addthecookednoodlesandcucumbertothewakame.

Tomakethesauce.Whisktogetherallofthesauceingredients.

Addtothenoodlemix.Stirgently,thenaddthesesameseeds,cilantro,mintandsprouts.Stirwellagainandtaste-youwantasweetishtartflavorwithakick.Ifneeded,addmoresalt,vinegarorsugar.

Toserve,pilethenoodlesinservingbowlsandgarnishwithradishsprouts.

GreenBeans

Mixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovage

Thisisawonderfullyaromaticdishthatusesanabundanceofspices,resultinginacurry-likedelicacy.Itcanbeservedwarmwithamixofbasmatiandwildrice

oratroomtemperatureasasidedish.

Lovagelookslikeflat-leafparsleybuttasteslikeintensecelery.Useitsparinglyand you’ll find it adds tons of character to salads, lentil dishes and creamysauces.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofit,substitutewithcilantroortarragon.

Serves4

3tbspoliveoil1mediumonion,finelychopped2garliccloves,chopped2tsptomatopaste1/2 tsp ground cumin 1/2 tsp ground turmeric 1/2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp

groundginger1tspgroundcardamompinchofgroundclovessaltandblackpepperone14-ozcanchoppedtomatoes(withtheirjuices)1tspsugar11/2cupssugarsnappeas,halvedatanangle1cuplargestringbeans,slicedat

anangle13/4cupsshelledfavabeans(freshorfrozen)2tbspchoppedlovage

Heatup theoil in a largepanandadd theonion.Sautéonmediumheat for3minutes,stirringfrequently;addthegarlicandcookfor1moreminute.Nowaddthe tomato paste, spices and some salt and pepper and keep on cooking andstirringforanotherminute.

Next,addthetomatoes,sugarandall thepeasandbeans.Stir tomix.Bringtotheboil, thencoverandsimmergentlyfor15 to20minutes,oruntil thesugarsnapsarecookedthroughbutarestillcrunchy.Tasteandaddsaltandpepperasyoulike.Stirinthelovagejustbeforeservingwarmorcooled.

Favabeanburgers

When this recipe first appeared in theGuardian I didn’tmention skinning thefava beans. This time I have done so because I decided to make the burgerssmoother andmore refined. I have to admit that the skinning does add a fairamountofwork,probably30minutes,butIbelievetheupgradeisworthit.Ididsavesometime,though,byleavingoutasourcreamandlemonsaucefromtheoriginal.Ifyouinsist,servewiththecondimentfortheSweetPotatoCakes.

Serves4

3/4 tsp cumin seeds 3/4 tsp coriander seeds 3/4 tsp fennel seeds 1/2 lb (about 6cups)spinach3tbspoliveoil

1 lb (about3 cups) shelled favabeans (freshor frozen) 3/4 lbpotatoes,peeledandroughlydiced1/2 freshgreenchile,seededandfinelychopped2garliccloves,crushed

1/4tspgroundturmericsaltandblackpepper3tbspchoppedcilantro6tbspdriedbreadcrumbs1egg1/2cupsunfloweroil4lemonwedges

Putthewholeseedsinapananddry-roastoverhighheatfor3to4minutes,oruntiltheystartreleasingtheiraromas.Grindtoapowderinamortarandpestleandleaveaside.

Wilt the spinach in a hot pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.When coolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutanyliquid,thenchoproughlyandsetaside.

Blanch the fava beans in boiling water for about a minute; drain and refreshundercoldrunningwater.Oncecoolenoughtohandle,removeanddiscardtheskins.

Cookthepotatoes inboilingwaterforabout15minutes,oruntil tender.Drain

and tip into a large mixing bowl. Immediately add the skinned fava beans,crushed seeds, chile,garlic, turmeric, remaining2 tablespoonsofoliveoil andsomesaltandpepper.Useapotatomashertomashitalluproughly;don’tworryif some beans are not totally crushed. Next, add the wilted spinach, choppedcilantroandbreadcrumbs.Tastetochecktheseasoning.Lastly,mixintheegg.

Wetyourhandsandshape themix into fatpatties thatare roughly2 inches indiameterand3/4inchthick.Chillthemforatleasthalfanhour.

Tocook,heatupthesunfloweroilandfrytheburgersonhighheatfor5minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrown.Servewarm,withthelemonwedges.

Gado-gado

Gado-gadoisbestdescribedasaverysubstantialsalad.Youdon’tneedanythingelse with it. A visit to an Asian grocer is essential for getting all the rightingredients,butsomecreativesubstituteswouldprobablyalsowork.Thesataysauceisalittleworkbutit’swortheverybitoftheeffort.Useitformarinatingwhitemeatortofu,orjustspoonoverhotriceorricenoodles.

Serves4

Sataysauce4garliccloves,peeled1lemongrassstalk,roughlychopped21/2 tbsp sambal oelek (Indonesian crushed chile paste) 2 small pieces of

galangal(orpeeledfreshginger)4mediumshallots,peeled1/3cupvegetableoil3/4tbspsalt7tbspsugar1/2tbspsweetpaprika2tbspthicktamarindwater(tamarindpulpwhiskedwitha

littlewaterandstrained)11/2cupsroastedunsaltedpeanuts13/4cupswater1cupcoconutmilk

1tspgroundturmeric2mediumpotatoes,peeledandcutintowedges

1/2mediumcabbage,cutintochunks1cupbeansprouts1/2cupgreenbeans,trimmed1/2mediumcucumber,thicklysliced4hard-boiled

eggs,quartered4 oz firm tofu, cut into 3/8-inch-thick slices cassava chips (or something else

crunchylikedeep-friedcroutonsorwontonskins)3tbspcilantroleavescrisp-friedshallots

To make the satay sauce. Use a small food processor to blitz the garlic,lemongrass,sambaloelek,galangalandshallotsintoahomogenouspaste.Addalittlebitofthevegetableoil,ifneeded,tobringeverythingtogether.

Heatuptheremainingoil inamediumsaucepan.Addthepasteandcookonagentleheatfor40to50minutes,oruntiltheoilstartsseparatingfromthepaste.Stir regularly.Once ready, combine the salt, sugar andpaprika and add to thespicepaste.Alsoaddthetamarindwater.Cookfor10minutesmore.

While thepaste iscooking, take thepeanutsandcrush themroughly ina foodprocessor; they should be chunkier than ground almonds. Put the peanuts andwater into a small saucepan and simmer on lowheat for 20 to 25minutes, oruntilthemixturethickensandmostofthewaterhasevaporated.Addthepeanuts(pluswater)tothecookedspicepaste,stirinthecoconutmilkandthere’syoursataysauce.Keepitsomewherewarm.

Havereadytwopotsofboilingwater;addtheturmerictooneofthem.Cookthepotatoesintheturmericwateruntiltender,thendrain.Intheotherpotblanchthecabbage for 1 minute; remove, and blanch the bean sprouts for 30 seconds.Removethose,thenblanchthegreenbeansfor4minutesanddrain(noneedtorefresh).Keepthesevegetableswarm.

Takea largecommunal servingplateandpileupall thevegetables,eggs, tofuand most of the chips. Generously spoon warm satay sauce on top (you’llprobablyhaveafairbitleftover;youcankeepitinthefridgeforafewdays),thensprinklewiththeremainingchips,thecilantroandcrispshallotsifyoulike.Servewarmish.

Greenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragon

Thissalad-offeringagoodbalanceofcleanfreshnessfromthebeanswiththepunchycomplexityoftheherbsandspices-worksinplentyofcontexts.TryitnexttoTwo-PotatoVindaloo,alongwithFriedLimaBeanswithFeta,SorrelandSumac,orasasidedishwithgrilledlambchops.

Serves4

11/4 cups greenbeans, trimmed21/4 cups snowpeas, trimmed13/4 cups greenpeas (freshor frozen)2 tspcorianderseeds, roughlycrushedwithamortarandpestle1tspmustardseeds

3tbspoliveoil1tspnigellaseeds1/2 small red onion, finely chopped 1 mild fresh red chile, seeded and finely

diced1garlicclove,crushedgratedzestof1lemon2tbspchoppedtarragoncoarseseasalt1cupbabychardleaves(optional)

Fillamediumsaucepanwithcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Blanchthegreenbeans for 4minutes, then immediately lift them out of the pan and into icedwatertorefresh.Drainanddry.

Bring a fresh pan ofwater to the boil and blanch the snowpeas for 1minuteonly.Refresh,drainanddry.Usethesameboilingwatertoblanchthepeasfor20seconds.Refresh,drainanddry.Combinethebeans,snowpeasandpeasinalargemixingbowl.

Putthecorianderseeds,mustardseedsandoilinasmallsaucepanandheatup.When theseedsbegin topop,pour thecontentsof thepanover thebeansandpeas.Toss together, then add the nigella seeds, redonion, chile, garlic, lemonzestandtarragon.Mixwellandseasonwithsalttotaste.

Justbeforeserving,gentlyfoldthechardleaves,ifusing,inwiththebeansandpeas,andspoonthesaladontoplatesorintobowls.

Warmglassnoodlesandedamame

Untilrecentlyedamame,whicharesimilartofavabeansbutharderandnuttier,were only available in Japanese restaurants. Now, with their health benefitscelebratedeverywhere(theyarefullofprotein,omega-3fattyacids,vitaminAand more), these young soybeans are widely available, whether frozen andshelled,cookedorraw.

Edamame fit well in most salads and in warm dishes. This one makes arefreshing lightmeal. You can upgrade it by adding fried tofu and/or roastedpeanuts.

Serves4

7ozglass(cellophane)noodles

Sauce2tbspgratedgalangalorfreshgingerjuiceof4limes3tbsppeanutoil2tbsppalmsugar2tspseedlesstamarindpulporpaste1tsptamari1tspfineseasalt

2tbspsunfloweroil3garliccloves,crushed21/2 cups shelledcookededamame3greenonions, thinly sliced (including the

greenparts)1freshredchile,finelychopped3tbspchoppedcilantro,plusafewwholeleavestogarnish3tbspshreddedfresh

mint3tbspsesameseeds,toastedsalt(optional)

Soakthenoodlesinabowlofhotwaterforabout5minutes,oruntilsoft(don’t

leavetheminthewaterfortoolongortheywillgetsoggy).Drainandleavetodry.

Tomakethesauce.Inasmallbowlwhisktogetherallofthesauceingredientsandsetaside.

Heatthesunfloweroilinalargefryingpanorawokandaddthegarlic.Whenitstarts to turn golden, remove the pan from the heat and add the sauce andnoodles. Gently stir together, then add most of the edamame and the greenonions,chile,cilantroandmint.Stireverythingtogetherwhileyoureturnthepantotheheatforafewseconds,justtowarmthrough.Tasteandseasonwithsalt,ifyoulike.

Pile up on a large platter or in a shallowbowl and scatter over the remainingedamameandthesesameseeds.Garnishwithcilantroleavesandserve.Youcanalsoservethisdishatroomtemperature,adjustingtheseasoningwhenitiscool.

Hotyogurtandfavabeansoup

IcameupwiththissoupwhenaskedtocontributeaseasonalrecipetotheRoyalHorticulturalSociety’s flowershowatHamptonCourtPalace. It involvesabitofworkbuttheresultis,quitefittingly,majestic.

Serves4

6tbspgood-qualityoliveoil1mediumonion,quartered4celerystalks,quartered1largecarrot,peeledandcutinto1-inchchunks5thymesprigs2bayleaves1/2cupflat-leafparsley11/2quartswater31/4cupsshelledfavabeans(freshor

frozen)1/3cuplong-grainricesaltandwhitepepper2cupsGreekyogurt2garliccloves,crushed1egg3tbsproughlychoppeddill3tbsproughlychoppedchervilgratedzestandjuiceof1lemon(optional)

Pour2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilintoalargepot.Heatuptheoilandaddtheonion,celeryandcarrot.Sautéonmediumheatforabout5minutes;youwanttosoften up the vegetables without browning them. Next, add the thyme, bayleavesandparsleyandcoverwith thewater.Bring to theboil, thenreduce theheat,coverandsimmergentlyfor30minutes.

While the stock is cooking, get on with the arduous bit - preparing the favabeans.Bringasaucepanofwatertotheboil.Throwinthebeansandsimmerforjust1minute.Drain,thenrefreshthebeansunderrunningcoldwatertostopthecooking.Next,removetheskinsbygentlypressingwithyourfingersagainstthesidesofeachbean,causingthesoftbeantopopout;discardtheskins.

Whenthestockisready,passitthroughasieveintoamediumsaucepan;discardthevegetablesandflavoringsinthesieve.Addthericetothestock.Bringtotheboil,thensimmer,covered,for20minutes.Nowaddhalftheskinnedfavabeansandsomesaltandpepperanduseanimmersionblender(oraregularblender)toblitzthesoupuntilitiscompletelysmooth.

Whisk together the yogurt, garlic and egg in a large heatproof bowl. Add aladlefulofthehotsoupandwhisktogether.Continuegraduallyaddingthesoupuntil you’ve mixed in at least half of it. (It is important to do this slowly,otherwisetheyogurtmightsplitduetothedifferenceintemperatures.)Pourthetemperedyogurtintothepancontainingtherestofthesoup.Placeitonmedium heat and warm up the soup while stirring constantly.Make sure thesoupdoesn’tboil!Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepper,ifyoulike.

Ladle the soup into four shallowbowls anddrop in the remaining favabeans.Garnish generously with dill, chervil and lemon zest, and drizzle with theremaining4 tablespoonsoliveoil (this is important),plussomelemonjuice, ifyoulike.

Pulses

Puylentilgalettes

Thesemayseemabitoutdated,reminiscentoftheoldvol-au-vents,butallgoodthingseventuallymakeacomebackandIamsurethismodernizedversionwill

score you many points on the imaginative-host scale. The lentils are alsodeliciousontheirown,withoutthepuffbase.

Youcanskipthetoastingandgrindingoftheseeds,ifyouprefer,anduseready-groundspicesinstead;justhalvethequantity.

Serves4

1cupPuylentils2bayleaves2tspcuminseeds2tspcorianderseeds5tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish1mediumonion,roughlychopped2garliccloves,crushed11/4cupsGreekyogurt2cupsbabyspinachleaves3tbspchoppedcilantro3tbspchoppedmintjuiceof1lemonsaltandblackpepper14ozbest-qualitypuffpastry1egg,beaten

Cook the lentils in a quart of boiling water with the bay leaves for 20 to 30minutes,oruntilthoroughlycooked.Draininasieveandsetaside.

Inasmallfryingpanovermediumheat,dry-roastthecuminandcorianderseedsfor2minutes,oruntil thearomasarereleased.Grind themusingamortarandpestle.

Heat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinasmallpanandfrytheoniongentlyfor6to8minutes,oruntilgoldenandverysoft.Addthegroundspicesandgarlicandcookfor2moreminutes.Mix thiswith the lentilsandsetaside tocooldown.Oncecool,stirintheyogurt,spinach,herbs,lemonjuiceandremainingoliveoil.Tasteandaddsaltandpepper.

Rolloutthepuffpastry11/4inchesthickandcutoutfourcirclesabout3inchesindiameter.Placeonabakingsheetandrefrigeratefor30minutes.Preheattheovento400°F.

Brush the pastrywith the beaten egg and bake for 10 to 15minutes, or untilgoldenontopandunderneath.Allowtocoolslightly.

Toserve,placethepastrydiscsinthemiddleoffourservingplates.Pileupthelentils high on top so you can just see the edge of the pastry. Finish with adrizzleofoliveoil.

Hummuswithful

WhenIaminIsraelIoftengotoAbuHassaninJaffa,atinyeaterywherethereisanendlesslineofArabsandJewsstandingatthedooraroundlunchtime.ItisoneofthoseuniqueplacesIlovesomuch,specializinginonethinganddoingittoabsoluteperfection.AbuHassanmakesoneofthebesthummusintheworld.Served warm with ful, which is a hearty paste of dried fava beans, this is apopular breakfast or lunch dish among Lebanese, Palestinians, Syrians andIsraelis. Served with warm pita, raw onion and hard-boiled egg, it isn’t thelightestaffair,butit’scompletelydelicious.Forasimplerexperience,makeonlythehummusandserveitwarmorchilled(itcanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2days).

Serves6

21/2 cups dried chickpeas 11/2 tbsp baking soda 11/4 cups tahini paste 3 tbsplemonjuice

6garliccloves,crushedsalt

Ful11/2cupsdriedfavabeans1/3cupoliveoil1/3cuplemonjuice1tbspgroundcumin4garliccloves,crushed1tspsalt

1/3cupoliveoil1/3cuplemonjuice1tspsweetpaprika6tbsproughlychoppedparsley(optional)3eggs,hard-boiledandquartered1mediumonion,cutinto6wedges(optional)

Soakthechickpeasandfavabeansovernight.Placethemintwoseparatebowls

andcoverwithdoubletheirvolumeofcoldwater.Add1tablespoonbakingsodatothechickpeas.Setbothaside.Thenextday,drainandrinseboth.

Place the soaked chickpeas and remaining baking soda in amedium saucepanandcoverwithdoubletheirvolumeofcoldwater.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerverygently for2 to3hours, oruntil totally soft andeasy tomush.Addmorewaterduringcookingifnecessary,tokeepthemimmersed.Drainthem,retainingthecookingliquid.

Transfer thewarmchickpeastoafoodprocessor,reservingafewtogarnishattheend,andadd the tahini, lemon juice,garlicand1 teaspoonsalt.Blitz foraminute or two until totally smooth.Add some of the cooking liquid and blitzagain.Youwant themixture tobeverysoft,almost runny,but justholding itsshape.Tasteandaddmoresaltifyoulike.Keepwarm.

Tomake the ful. Place the fava beans in amedium saucepan and coverwithdoubletheirvolumeofwater.Simmergentlyforabout3hours(theymaytakelonger),addingmorewaterifnecessary.Bytheendofthecookingtime,hardlyanyliquidshouldbeleftinthepan(drainitoutifneeded)andthebeansshouldhave begun to disintegrate, or will do so easily when crushed with a fork.Removefromtheheatandaddtheoliveoil,lemonjuice,cumin,garlicandsalt.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.

Toserve,spreadthewarmhummusinsmallindividualplates.Spoonthefulinthecenteranddrizzletheoliveoilandlemonjuiceontopandaround.Sprinklewithpaprika,garnishwiththereservedchickpeas,plentyofparsley,ifusing,andserveeggandonionontheside.

ChickpeasautéwithGreekyogurt

Thisisaquickandsimpledishthatisnicebothwarmandatroomtemperature.Whenchardisn’tinseasontryacombinationofspinachandarugula(youwon’tneedtoblanchthem)andsprinklewithsumacorgroundPersianlime.

Serves4

3/4lb(8cups)Swisschard1/3cupoliveoil,plusextratofinish4mediumcarrots,peeledandcutinto3/8-inchdice1tspcarawayseeds11/2cupsfreshlycookedchickpeas(cannedarefinetoo)1garlicclove,crushed1tbspchoppedmint1tbspchoppedcilantro1tbsplemonjuicesaltandblackpepper1/2cupGreekyogurt1tbspoliveoil

Separatethechardstalksfromtheleaves.Blanchthestalksinplentyofboilingsaltedwaterfor3minutes.Addtheleavesandcontinuecookingfor2minutes,thendraineverything.Refreshundercoldrunningwaterandsqueezedry, thenchoproughly.

Heatup theoliveoil in a large,heavy saucepan.Add thecarrots andcarawayseedsandsautéfor5minutesonmediumheat.Addthechardandchickpeasandcontinue cooking for 6 minutes. Now add the garlic, herbs, lemon juice andsomesaltandpepper.Removefromtheheatandcooldowna little.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.

Toserve,mix together theyogurt,oliveoilandsomesaltandpepper.Pile thevegetablesonservingdishesandspoontheyogurtontop.Sprinklewithfreshlygroundpepperanddrizzleovermoreoliveoil.

Friedlimabeanswithfeta,sorrelandsumac

I knew something was achieved when I recently spotted sumac in the spicesection ofmy local supermarket.Who had even heard of sumac, or za’atar, acoupleofyearsago?Although I can’t take full credit for it, this is a first steptoward introducing a new exciting spice to the home cook andmy answer toskeptics who often ask me why I use all these exotic ingredients that areimpossibletofind.Justincaseyoudon’tlivenearme,youcangetbothza’atarandsumacfromMiddleEasternshops,orbuythemonlinefrompenzeys.com.Ifyoucan’tfindsorrel,usespinachanddoubletheamountoflemonjuice.

Serves4

1lbdriedlimabeans2tbspbakingsoda11/2tbspbutter4tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish8greenonions,slicedlengthwaysintolongstrips1garlicclove,crushed2freshredchiles,thinlysliced(optional)5cupssorrel,cutinto3/4-inchstrips,plusextraverythinlyslicedtofinish1/2tsp

salt11/2tbsplemonjuice5ozfeta,crumbled2tspsumachandfulofchoppedsoftherbssuchasdillorchervil

Place the limabeans ina largebowlandaddtwice theirvolumeofcoldwaterandthebakingsoda.Leavetosoakovernight.

Thefollowingday,drainthebeans,placeinalargepanandcoverwithplentyoffreshwater.Bringtotheboilandboilforatleast30minutes,oruntilsofttothebitebutnotdisintegrating.Theycouldtakeoveranhourtocook,dependingonsize and freshness.Addmorewater during cooking if necessary.When ready,drainthebeans.

Next, youwant to lightly fry them.Youmay need to do this in three or fourbatches,dependingonthesizeofyourpan.Takesomeofthebutterandoilandheat up well. Add enough beans to cover the bottom of the pan and fry onmedium-high heat for 1 to 2minutes on each side, or until the skin is goldenbrownandblistered.Removetoalargebowlandcontinuewithanotherbatchofbutter,oilandbeans.

When cooking the final batch, as soon as the beans are almost done, add thegreen onions, garlic, chiles, if using, and sorrel and sauté for about aminute.Thenaddtherestofthebeanstothepan,removefromtheheatandseasonwiththesalt.Allowthebeanstocooldowncompletelyoruntiljustwarmish.

Tastethebeansforseasoning,drizzlesomelemonjuiceontop,thenscatterwithfeta,asprinklingofsumac,choppedherbsandsomethinlyslicedsorrel.Finishwithadrizzleofoliveoil.

Celeriacandlentilswithhazelnutandmint

Celeriac isprobablymy favorite root. It isdelicate,yetverynutty,andhasanelegantoilysmoothness.Likeallgoodvegetables,itismarveloussimplywithabitofoliveoil.Hereitworkswiththelentilsandnutstocreateaheartyautumnmaincourse.Serveitwarm,witharadish,cucumberanddillsaladdressedwithsourcreamandoliveoil.Orallowittocooldown,thentakeittoworkforlunchoronapicnic.

Serves4

1/3cupwholehazelnuts(skinon)1cupPuylentils3cupswater2bayleaves4thymesprigs1smallceleriac(11/2lbs),peeledandcutinto3/8-inchchips4tbspoliveoil3tbsphazelnutoil3tbspgood-qualityredwinevinegarsaltandblackpepper4tbspchoppedmint

Preheat the oven to 275°F. Scatter the hazelnuts on a small baking sheet androastintheovenfor15minutes.Letthemcooldown,thenchoproughly.

Combinethelentils,water,bayleavesandthymeinasmallsaucepan.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerfor15to20minutes,oruntilaldente.Draininasieve.

Meanwhile,inaseparatesaucepan,cooktheceleriacinplentyofboilingsaltedwaterfor8to12minutes,oruntiljusttender.Drain.

Inalargebowlmixthehotlentils(iftheyhavecooleddowntheywon’tsoakupalltheflavors)withtheoliveoil,2tablespoonsofthehazelnutoil,thevinegar,plentyofsaltandsomeblackpepper.Addtheceleriacandstirwell.Tasteand

adjusttheseasoning.

To serve right away, stir in half the mint and half the hazelnuts. Pile onto aservingdishorinabowlanddrizzletheremaininghazelnutoilontop.Garnishwiththerestofthemintandhazelnuts.

To serve cold, wait for the lentils and celeriac to cool down before finallyadjustingtheseasoningandpossiblyaddingsomemorevinegar,ifyoulike.Addhazelnutoil,mintandnutsinthesamewayaswhenservinghot.

Chickpea,tomatoandbreadsoup

Here’s a take on the Tuscan ribollita. Somewhere between a soup and avegetablestew,itisawarmingandfillingmealinabowlafterwhichyoudon’tneedmuch-maybejustalittlepillowtorestyourheadon.Youcanreduceorincreasetheamountofliquidtoachieveyourperfectconsistency.

Serves4-6

1largeonion,sliced1mediumfennelbulb,slicedabout1/2cupoliveoil1largecarrot,peeled,cutlengthwaysinhalfandsliced3celerystalks,sliced1tbsptomatopaste1cupwhitewineone14-ozcanItalianplumtomatoes1tbspchoppedoregano2tbspchoppedparsley1tbspthymeleaves2bayleaves2tspsugar41/2cupsvegetablestocksaltandblackpepper2largeslicesstalesourdoughbread(crustremoved)21/2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (canned are fine too) 4 tbsp basil pesto

(boughtorfreshlymade)handfulofshreddedbasilleavestoserve(optional)

Preheattheovento350°F.Placetheonionandfennelinalargesaucepan,add3tablespoonsof theoilandsautéonmediumheat forabout4minutes.Add thecarrot and celery and continue cooking for 4 minutes, just to soften thevegetables,stirringoccasionally.Stirinthetomatopasteandstirasyoucookfor1minute.Addthewineandletitbubbleawayforaminuteortwo.

Next,addthecannedtomatoeswiththeirjuices,theherbs,sugar,vegetablestockand some salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then cover and leave to simmer

gentlyforabout30minutes.

Whileyouwait,breakthebreadintoroughchunkswithyourhands.Tosswith2tablespoonsoil and some salt and scatter in a roastingpan.Bake for about10minutes,oruntilthoroughlydry.Removefromtheovenandsetaside.

About10minutesbeforeyouwant to serve the soup,place thechickpeas inabowlandcrushthemalittlewithapotatomasherortheendofarollingpin;youwant some to be leftwhole.Add them to the soup and leave to simmer for afurther5minutes.Nextadd the toastedbread,stirwellandcookforanother5minutes.Tastethesoupandaddsaltandpepperliberally.

Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Spoon some pesto in the center, drizzle withplentyofoliveoilandfinishwithagenerousamountoffreshlyshreddedbasil,ifyoulike.

Greenlentils,asparagusandwatercress

WhenthisrecipewasfirstpublishedIusedyoungpecorinocheeseinitsoasnotto outdo the asparagus. I have since realized that fresh asparagus actuallywithstands quite a lot and can impart its flavor over pretty gutsy dishes. Aflavorfulsheep’scheeseisidealwiththeearthylentils.

Serves4generously

1cupgreenlentils4cupswatercress(thickstalksremoved)2/3cupparsley2/3cuplightoliveoil1tbspredwinevinegar1garlicclove,peeledsaltandblackpepper1largebunchthinasparagusspears31/2 oz semi-mature pecorino (or one of the more full-bodied varieties of

Manchego),brokenintochunkswalnutoiltofinish(optional)4lemonwedges

Wash the lentils in cold water, then place in a saucepanwith plenty of freshwaterandbring to theboil.Simmerfor15minutes,oruntil the lentilsare justcookedbuthaven’tstartedtodisintegrate.

While the lentils are cooking, put half the watercress, the parsley, olive oil,vinegar, garlic and some salt and pepper into a food processor. Blitz untilsmooth.Pourintoabowl.

Assoonasthelentilsarecookeddrainthemwellandmixthem,whilestillhot,withthewatercressdressing.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning;youwillprobablyneedmoresalt.

Cooktheasparagusinsimmeringsaltedwaterfor2to3minutes;drain.Cutthe

spearsintoroughly21/2-inch-longsegments.

Youcanservethesaladwarmoratroomtemperature.Tosstogetherthelentils,asparagus andmost of the remainingwatercress.Addpieces of cheese as youplate thesalad.Drizzlewithwalnutoil, ifusing,andgarnishwith thereservedwatercress.Servewithwedgesoflemon.

Spicedredlentilswithcucumberyogurt

Myfriendandcolleague,HelenGoh,isabitoffoodencyclopedia.Iamalwaysastounded by how much she knows and how effortlessly she accesses herknowledge.After suggesting that I try this dish,which she hadn’t cooked foryears,Helenwentontorapidlyrecitethelonglistofingredientsandquantitiesasifshewerereadingfromhernotes.Shedidn’tmissasingleitem!

Serves2-4

1cupsplitredlentils11/2cupswater1bunchcilantro(31/2cups),plusextraleavestogarnish1smallonion,peeled21/2inchespeeledfreshginger3garliccloves,peeled1mildfreshgreenchile11/2tspblackmustardseeds4tbspsunfloweroil11/2tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcumin1/2tspgroundturmeric1/4tspsweetpaprika10curryleaves13/4cupspeeledchoppedtomatoes(freshorcanned)2tspsugar1/4tspfenugreek(optional)pinchofasafetida(optional)salt3/4 cupGreekyogurt 3/4 cup finelydicedcucumber11/2 tbspoliveoil1/3cup

unsaltedbutter11/2tbsplimejuiceWashthelentilsunderplentyofrunningcoldwater,thensoakinthe11/2cupsofwaterfor30minutes.

Cutthecilantrobunchsomewherearounditscentertogetaleafytophalfandastalkandroothalf.Chopuptheleavesroughly;setaside.Placethestalkendsinafoodprocessorbowlandadd theonion,ginger,garlicandchile-all roughlybroken. Pulse a few times to chop up everythingwithout turning them into apaste.

Putthemustardseedsinaheavypotandsetonmediumheat.Whentheybegintopop, add the choppedonionmix and the sunfloweroil.Reduceheat to lowand cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes. Add the ground coriander, cumin,turmeric, paprika and curry leaves, and continue cooking and stirring for 5minutes.

Next,addthelentilsandtheirsoakingwater,thetomatoes,sugar,fenugreek,andasafetida, if using, and some salt.Cover and simmer for about 30minutes, oruntilthelentilsarefullycooked.

Meanwhile,whisktogethertheyogurt,cucumber,oliveoilandsomesalt.

Stir thebutter, limejuiceandchoppedcilantroleavesintothelentils; tasteandseasongenerouslywithsalt.Divideamongbowls,spoontheyogurtontopandgarnishwithcilantroleaves.

CastellucciolentilswithtomatoesandGorgonzola

CastellucciolentilsfromUmbriaaretinybrownishjewelswithadelicateflavorandawonderfullytendertexture.LikePuylentils,theydon’tdisintegrateinthecooking,whichmakes themideal forsalads.Youcanget themfromItalianorgourmetmarkets,orusePuyinstead.Thissubstantialdish,whichisbesteatenatroom temperature, can be served on its own or with steamed seasonal greenssuchasbroccoliniorbabyfennel.

Serves4

Oven-driedtomatoes5plumtomatoes8thymesprigs1tbspoliveoil2tbspbalsamicvinegarsalt

1smallredonion,verythinlysliced1tbspgood-qualityredwinevinegar1tspMaldonseasalt11/3cupsCastellucciolentils3tbspoliveoil1garlicclove,crushedblackpepper3tbspchoppedchervilorparsley3tbspchoppedchives4tbspchoppeddill3ozmildGorgonzola,crumbled

To make the oven-dried tomatoes. Preheat the oven to 275°F. Quarter thetomatoes vertically and place skin-side down on a baking sheet lined withparchment paper. Arrange the thyme sprigs on top of them. Drizzle over theoliveoilandbalsamicvinegarandsprinklewithsomesalt.Roastfor11/2hours,oruntilsemi-dried.Discardthethymeandallowtocooldownslightly.

Meanwhile, place the redonion in amediumbowl, pourover thevinegar andsprinklewiththeseasalt.Stir,thenleaveforafewminutessotheonionsoftensabit.

Place the lentils in a pan of boilingwater (thewater should come 11/4 inchesabovethelentils)andcookfor20to30minutes,oruntiltender.Drainwellinasieveand,whilestillwarm,addtotheslicedonion.Alsoaddtheoliveoil,garlicandsomeblackpepper.Stirtomixandleaveasidetocooldown.Oncecool,addtheherbsandgentlymixtogether.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.

Toserve,pileupthelentilsonalargeplateorbowl,integratingtheGorgonzola

andtomatoesasyoubuildupthepile.Drizzlethetomatocookingjuicesontopandserve.

Socca

OnavisittosouthernFrancemypartner,Karl,andIweretakentoGraindeSel,aminuterestaurant inthevillageofCogolin,runbyaninspiringcouple,Anneand PhilippeAudibert.Among other brilliant dishesmade from local producethat Philippe buys daily in the local market, I was served a variation on therenowned pissaladière. Instead of the normal dough base, Philippe used soccabatter, a speciality ofNicemade from chickpea flour,water and olive oil.Hewasgenerousenoughtogivemetherecipe.

Serves4

2cupscherrytomatoes,halved51/2 tbsp olive oil, plusmore for drizzling 13/4 lbswhite onions, cut into thin

rings2tbspthymeleavessaltandblackpepper1/2tspwhitewinevinegar13/4cupschickpeaflour2cupswater2eggwhitescrèmefraîchetoserve

Preheat theoven to275°F.Spread the tomatoescut-sideupona smallbakingpanandsprinklethemwithsomesaltandpepperandadrizzleofoil.Roastfor25minutes,oruntilsemi-cooked.Theyarenotsupposedtodryoutcompletely.

Meanwhile,heatup4tablespoonsoliveoilinalargefryingpan.Addtheonions,thyme and some salt and pepper and cook on high heat, stirring, for about aminute. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 20minutes, stirringoccasionally.Youwanttheonionscompletelysoft,sweetandgoldenbrown,butnotverydark.Attheend,stirinthevinegar,thentasteandadjusttheseasoning.

Whenyoutakethetomatoesoutoftheoven,increasethetemperatureto325°F.

Put the chickpea flour,water, 11/2 tablespoons olive oil, 3/4 teaspoon salt andsomepepper in a bowl.Mixwellwith a handwhisk until the batter is totally

homogenous.Inaseparatebowlwhisktheeggwhites tosoftpeaksandgentlyfoldintothebatter.

Linetwobakingsheetswithparchmentpaperandbrushthepaperwithalittlebitofoil;setontheside.Thentakeasmallnonstickfryingpan,roughly6 inchesdiameterat itsbase,andbrush itwith thesmallestamountofoliveoil.Putonhighheatforacoupleofminutes,thenreduceheattomedium-highandpourinone-quarter of the socca batter. It should be about scant 1/4 inch thick. Afterabout2minutesairbubbleswillappearonthesurfaceandthepancakewillhaveset on its base. Use an offset spatula to release its edges from the pan, thencarefully lift and turn it over. Cook for another minute. Transfer to the linedbakingsheet.Repeatwiththerestofthebatter.Whenallthepancakeshavebeenmade,placeintheovenfor5minutes.

To serve, spread the onion over the pancakes; they should be totally covered.Arrangetomatohalvesontop.Placeintheoventowarmupforabout4minutes.Servewarm,withcrèmefraîcheontheside.

Grains

Avocado,quinoaandfavabeansalad

Asimplesaladforaspringbrunch.Serveitwithgoodbreadandthat’sit.

Serves6

1cupquinoa1lb(3cups)shelledfavabeans(freshorfrozen)2mediumlemons2smallripeavocados2garliccloves,crushed2bunchesbreakfastradishes,halvedlengthways1cuppurpleradishcress(orsmallpurplebasilleaves)1tbspgroundcumin1/3cupoliveoil1/4tspchileflakessaltandblackpepper

Placethequinoainasaucepanwithplentyofwater,bringtotheboilandsimmerfor9minutes.Draininafinesieve,rinseundercoldwaterandleavetodry.

Throw the fava beans into a pan of boilingwater, bring back to the boil andimmediatelydraininacolander.Refreshwithcoldwaterandleavetodry.Thengentlypresseachbeanwithyourfingerstoremovetheskins;discardthese.

Takethelemonsanduseasmallsharpknifetosliceoffthetopandbase.Standeach one on a chopping board and cut down the sides, following the naturalcurve, to remove the skin and white pith. Over a large mixing bowl, cut inbetween the membranes to release the individual segments into the bowl.Squeezethejuicefromthemembraneintothebowlwiththesegments.

Peelandstonetheavocados.Slicethinly,thenaddtothebowlandtosstocoverinthelemonjuice.Oncethequinoaisdry,transferittothebowl.Addthefavabeans,garlic,radishes,halftheradishcress,thecumin,oliveoil,chileflakesandsomesaltandpepper.Tossverygently,withoutbreakingtheavocado.Tasteandadd more salt and pepper, if you wish. Plate and garnish with the remainingcress.

Coconutricewithsambalandokra

Breakfast is the one meal in the day when cultural boundaries aren’t easilycrossed - even themost experimental and daring of eaters revert towhat theyknowandlike,which is theirmom’scooking.MyfriendHelenGoh,whowasbroughtupinMalaysia,findsitexcruciatinglydifficult tohaveanythinginthemorningbutthenationalbreakfastgrub,nasilemak.Nothingelseturnsheron.Mydishis inspiredbynasi lemak.Idareyoutoserveitforbreakfast!Andbewarned:itisveryhot.

Crisp-friedshallotsareavailable fromAsiangrocers.Youcanalsomake themyourself,orsubstitutedriedonionflakes.

Serves4

Sambal5freshredchiles(1ozintotal),seeded5driedredchiles(1/8ozintotal),seeded20babyshallots(4ozintotal),peeled1garlicclove,peeled1/2tspsalt1/2cupvegetableoil2tbspwater1tbspthicktamarindwater(seedlesstamarindpulpwhiskedwithalittlewater,

thenstrained)1tbspsugar

Rice12/3cupsbasmatirice1/2tspsalt3/4cupcoconutmilk11/2cupswater6kaffirlimeleaves(optional)6thinslicesoffreshginger

11/4lbs(6cups)okra,trimmed2tbspcrisp-friedshallotslargehandfulofroughlychoppedcilantro2limes,halved

Tomakethesambal.Placethefreshanddriedchiles,shallots,garlicandsaltinafoodprocessorandadd2tablespoonsoftheoilandthewater.Blitzforaboutaminute,oruntilyougetafinepaste(thiscanalsobemadeusingamortarandpestlebutwithouttheliquids;addtheseonceyouhaveapaste).

Setawokoralargeheavyfryingpanonhighheat.Oncehot,addtheremainingoilandheatupwell.Nowaddthechilepasteandstir.Reducetheheatatoncetoavoid burning and cook on a low simmer, stirring frequently, for 5 to 10minutes,oruntilyougetabeautifuldark-redoilypaste.Offtheheat,stirinthetamarindwaterandsugar.Setaside.

Tomaketherice.Washthericewellunderplentyofcoldrunningwater.Drainwellandputintoamediumsaucepan.Heatthericeupalittle,thenaddthesalt,coconutmilk,water, limeleavesandginger.Stirandbringto theboil.Reducetheheattoaminimum,coverandleavetosimmerfor12minutes.Removefromtheheatandleave,covered,for10minutes.Beforeserving,fluffupthericewithafork.

While the rice is cookingbringamediumpanofwater to theboil.Throw theokraintotheboilingwaterandcookfor2to3minutesonly,soitremainsfirm.Drain,rinseundercoldrunningwaterandleavetodry.

Whenyouarereadytoserve,reheatthesambalinitspan.Addtheokraandstirjusttowarmitup(don’tcookitanymore).Spoonsomericeintoeachservingbowl or plate.Topwith okra and sambal, and sprinklewith fried shallots andchopped cilantro. Place a lime half on the side of each bowl and encourageeverybodytosqueezeitsjuiceliberallyontop.

Lemonandeggplantrisotto

Thecrucialcomponentinthisdishisthestock,whichwillmakeorbreakit.Youcanquicklymakeonebycoveringsomearomaticvegetablesandherbs(carrot,celery, onion, bay leaf, parsley, garlic, lemongrass, fennel, thyme, etc.) withwaterandsimmeringforhalfanhour.LookattheParsnipDumplingsinBroth

foralengthierversion.Unlikesomeotherrisotti,thisonefeelslightasafeather-oralmost.

Serves4

2mediumeggplants1/2cupplus1tbspoliveoilcoarseseasalt1mediumonion,finelychopped2garliccloves,crushed7ozgood-qualityrisottorice1/2cupwhitewine31/4cupshotvegetablestockgratedzestof1lemon2tbsplemonjuice11/2 tbsp butter 1/2 cup grated Parmesan (about 2 oz) (or anothermature hard

cheese)blackpepper1/2cupshreddedbasilleavesStart by burning one of the eggplants.Once ready, remove from the heat andmakea longcut through theeggplant.Scoopout the soft fleshwhileavoidingtheskin.Discardtheskin.Chopthefleshroughlyandsetaside.

Cut theother eggplant into 1/2-inchdice.Heatup1/3cupof theoliveoil in afryingpanandfrytheeggplantdiceinbatchesuntilgoldenandcrisp.Transfertoacolanderandsprinklewithsalt.Leavetocool.

Put the onion and remaining oil in a heavy pan and fry slowly until soft andtranslucent.Add thegarlic and cook for a further3minutes.Turnup theheatandaddtherice,stirringtocoatitintheoil.Fryfor2to3minutes.Addthewine(itshouldhiss)andcookfor2to3minutes,oruntilnearlyevaporated.Turntheheatdowntomedium.

Nowstartaddingthehotstocktotherice,aladlefulatatime,waitinguntileachadditionhasbeenfullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenextandstirringallthetime.Whenallthestockhasbeenadded,removethepanfromtheheat.Addhalfthelemonzest, thelemonjuice,grilledeggplant,butter,mostof theParmesanand3/4teaspoonsalt.Stirwell,thencoverandsetasidefor5minutes.Tasteandaddmoresalt,ifyoulike,plussomeblackpepper.

To serve, spoon the risotto into shallow bowls and sprinkle with the dicedeggplant,theremainingParmesan,thebasilandtherestofthelemonzest.

Farroandroastedpeppersalad

Ifirsttriedfarrowhenmyfriendandex-colleague,NirFeller,cookedwithitatOttolenghi inNottingHill. InitiallyIwasn’tquitesoldonit; it just tastedabittoo “healthy” for my liking. Since then, though, I have grown to appreciatefarro’snuttyaromaanditsrobusttexturethatgoessowellwithintenseflavors.

FarroistheItaliannameforanoldwheatvarietysimilarto,orpossiblyeventhesame as, emmer or spelt. It can be eaten by some people who are normallyintolerantofwheat.Itissoldinafewforms-whole,semi-pearledandpearled-andtheoneyouusewilldeterminethecookingtime,whichisanywherefrom15minutestoanhour.Whendoneitshouldbetenderbutretainarealbite.GetitinItalian or well-stocked supermarkets. Alternatively, use pearled spelt or pearlbarley.

Serves4asastarter

Dressingjuiceof1mediumlemon3tbspoliveoil1tbsphoney1/4 tsp ground allspice 1/4 tsp smoked paprika, plus extra to garnish 1/2 garlic

clove,crushed1/4tspfineseasalt3/4cupfarro2redbellpeppers10pittedblackolives,quarteredlengthways1tbspchoppedfreshoreganoorpickedthymeleaves3greenonions,thinlysliced4ozfeta,crumbled

Tomakethedressing.Whisktogetheralltheingredientsinabowlandsetaside.

Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Addfarroandsimmeruntiljusttender.Draininasieve,rinseundercoldwaterandsetaside.

Preheatagrillpan tohigh.Usea small, sharpknife tocutaround the stemofeachbellpepperand lift itoutwith theseedsattached.Put thepepperson thegrillpanandgrill,turningthemeverynowandthen,untiltheyaretotallyblackontheoutside;thiswilltake30minutesormore.Whenready,removethepanfromtheheatandcoveritwithfoil.Oncethepeppersarecoolenoughtohandle,remove and discard the skin. Tear them by hand into roughly 3/8-inch-wideslices.

Place the cooked farro in a large mixing bowl and add the peppers, olives,oreganoor thyme,greenonionsandmostof thefeta, reservingsometofinish.Pouroverthedressingandgentlymixeverythingtogether.Tasteandaddmoresaltifyoulike.

Toserve,pileupthesaladonaplateorinabowlandfinishwiththereservedfetaandasprinkleofpaprika.

Steamedricewithherbs(or,actually,herbswithrice)

ThisIranianrice,calledsabzipolo,isnormallyservedwithfishbutworkswellwithalmostanythingelseandalsoonitsownwithjustacondiment.Insteadofthe yogurt and cream condiment you can serve tzatziki or a sweetish tomatosauce(seeOkrawithTomato,LemonandCilantro,withorwithouttheokra).

ThemethodIdescribeisveryparticularbutit isessentialyousticktoit togetincredibly light and fluffy steamed rice. There are also heaps of herbs here,reversing the usual proportions of herbs to the rest, which gives the rice itsdistinctearthyaroma.Buyyourherbsfromagreengrocerorfarmers’market,oryou’ll need dozens of the minuscule supermarket-size bunches. Although Ialwaysprefermanualchoppingofherbs,youcansaveyourmusclesbyusingafoodprocessorinthiscase.

Serves4asasidedish

11/4cupsbasmatirice2tspsalt1/2cupfinelychoppedgreenonion2cupsfinelychoppeddill2cupsfinelychoppedparsley(leavesandfinestalks)6cupsfinelychoppedcilantro(leavesandstalks)3tbspgrapeseedoranothervegetableoil1smallpotato,peeledandverythinlysliced3tbspwater1cupGreekyogurt1/2cupsourcream2tbspoliveoil

Placethericeinasieveandrinsethoroughlyunderrunningwater.Transfertoabowlandfillupwithenoughwatertocome3/8inchabovetherice.Addthesaltandstir.Leavetosoakfor1to2hours.

Take a large heavy pot and pour in the rice and its soaking liquid.Addmorefreshwater-aboutanother3cups-tocoverthericewell.Setonhighheatandbringtotheboil.Simmerforonlyaminuteorso,thenaddthegreenonionsandall theherbsandstir.Simmer foranother1 to2minutes,oruntil the rice justlosessomeofitshardnessbutisdefinitelynotcookedyet.Draininasieveandsetaside.

Rinseanddrythepot.Pourin2tablespoonsoftheoilandheatitovermediumheat. Carefully arrange the potato slices, slightly overlapping, in the pan. Frythem, without stirring, for about 2minutes, just to get a little color. Removefromtheheatandallowtocooldown.

Drizzle 2 tablespoons of thewater over the potatoes, then start filling the potwith the rice.Do it gradually, using a large spoon, buildingup the rice into aproper heap on top of the potatoes and making sure as little rice as possibletouchesthesidesofthepot.

Usethehandleofawoodenspoontomakefivedeepholesintherice,oneinthecenterandfouraroundit,all thewaydowntothepotatoes.Turnthehandletocarefully increase thediameterofeach“chimney” toabout1/2 inch; thesewillassistthesteaming.

Nowdrizzlethericewiththeremaining1tablespooneachofgrapeseedoilandwater.Coverwithatight-fittinglidandleaveonhighheatforaminuteortwo,just toheatup.Reduce theheat to lowandcook for20minutes.Turnoff theheat and leave the rice, covered, to keep on steaming on the residual heat foranother 20 minutes (if you have an electric stove, remove the pan from theburnertoawarmplaceforthelast10minutes).

Mixtheyogurtwiththesourcream.Foldintheoliveoilwithoutincorporatingitfully.Serveoverornexttotherice.

Yogurtflatbreadswithbarleyandmushrooms

Thisisawonderfullysoothingdishduetothesmoothtexturesofthemushroomsandbarley.Asamazingastheflatbreadsare,youdon’thavetomakethemifyouareshortoftime.Riceorcouscouswillbefinealternatives.

Serves6asastarter

Flatbreads1cupplus2tspwhole-wheatflour11/2tspbakingpowder1/2tspsalt3/4cupGreekyogurt3tbspchoppedfreshcilantro4tbspclarifiedbutter(oramixtureofmeltedbutterandvegetableoil)MushroomRagout1/2 cuppearl barley 3/4 ozdriedporcinimushrooms 3/4 cup lukewarmwater4

cupsmixedshiitakeandbuttonmushrooms,halved2tbspoliveoil5tbspbutter2thymesprigs1garlicclove,crushed1/2cupwhitewinesaltandblackpepper2tbspchoppedparsley,plusextratogarnish1/2tbspfinelychoppedpreservedlemon1tbsplemonjuice

6tbspGreekyogurt

Tomaketheflatbreads.Combinealltheingredients,apartfromthebutter,inabowlanduseyourhandstomixthemtogethertoadrydough;addmoreflourifneeded. Knead the dough for a minute or so, until it is smooth and uniform.Wrapitinplasticwrapandchillforatleastanhour.

Tomakethemushroomragout.Rinsethebarleywithcoldwater,thenplaceinamedium saucepan and coverwith plenty of freshwater. Simmer for 30 to 35minutes,oruntilaldente.

Place theporcini in abowl andcoverwith lukewarmwater; set aside.Put thefreshmushrooms in a heavypanwith the oil overmedium-highheat, half thebutter and the thyme, and sauté for 4minutes, stirring occasionally.Once themushroomshavesoftened,addthegarlicandwineandallowtobubbleawayforabout5minutes.

Next, add the porcini and their soaking liquid, leaving behind any grit in thebowl, plus some salt and pepper. Simmer on low heat for about 10 minutes.Finally, stir in the remaining butter with the parsley, preserved lemon, lemonjuiceandcookedbarley.Youwillnowhaveaflavorfulmushroomstewwithathicksauce.Addmorewaterifneededandtasteforseasoning.Setaside;reheatbeforeserving.

Whenreadytomaketheflatbreads,divideyourdoughintosixpieces.Rollintoballs, then flatten themwith a rolling pin into round discs about 1 inch thick.Heatsomeclarifiedbutterinanonstickpanandfrytheflatbreads,oneatatime,onmediumheat forabout2minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrown.Addmorebutterasyouneeditandkeeptheflatbreadswarmastheyarecooked.

Toserve, foldeachwarmflatbread inhalfor intoquartersand topwithwarmragout,aspoonfulofyogurtandasprinkleofparsley.

Barleyandpomegranatesalad

You’ll be surprised by how simple this salad is to make, considering howspectacular it tastes. I can almost promise that it is going to become a dailyaffair!ItwillgowellwithFriedLeeksaswellasmanyfattycutsofmeat.

Serves4

1cuppearlbarley6celerystalks(leavespickedandreserved),cutintosmalldice1/4cupoliveoil

3tbspsherryvinegar2smallgarliccloves,crushed2/3tspgroundallspicesaltandblackpepper3tbspchoppeddill3tbspchoppedparsleyseedsfrom2largepomegranates

Rinse the barleywith coldwater, thenplace in amedium saucepan and coverwithplentyoffreshwater.Simmerfor30to35minutes,oruntiltenderbutstillwithabite.

Drain the barley and transfer to a mixing bowl.While it is still hot, add thecelery, olive oil, vinegar, garlic, allspice and some salt and pepper. Stir, thenleavetocooldowncompletely.

Oncecool,addtheherbs,celeryleavesandpomegranateseedsandmixin.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningtoyourliking,thenserve.

Kısır

ThisismytakeonaclassicTurkishdishthatresonateswithvariationsallovertheLevant.Serveitwithbutterlettuceleavesaspartofamezzeselection.

Serves4

2largeonions,finelychopped6tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish2tbsptomatopaste4mediumtomatoes,peeledandchopped1/2cupwater1cupmediumbulgurwheat11/2tsppomegranatemolasses1tbsplemonjuice6tbspchoppedparsley3greenonions,finelyshredded,plusextratofinish2freshgreenchiles,seededandfinelychopped2garliccloves,crushed1tspgroundcuminsaltandblackpepperseedsfrom1mediumpomegranatehandfulofmintleaves,somewholeandsomeroughlyshredded

Placetheonionsandoliveoilinalargepanandsautéonmediumheatforabout5minutes, or until translucent. Add the tomato paste and stir with a woodenspoonfor2minutes.Addthetomatoesandsimmeronlowheatforafurther4minutes.Nowaddthewaterandbringtotheboil.Removeimmediatelyfromtheheatandstirinthebulgur.

Next,addthemolasses,lemonjuice,parsley,greenonions,chiles,garlic,cuminandsomesaltandpepper.Stirwell,thenleaveasideuntilthedishreachesroomtemperature or is just lukewarm. Taste it and adjust the seasoning; it willprobablyneedplentyofsalt.

Spoon the kısır onto serving dishes and flatten it out roughly with a spoon,creatingawave-likepatternonthesurface.Scatterpomegranateseedsallover,drizzlewithoilandfinishwithmintandgreenonion.

Cardamomricewithpoachedeggsandyogurt

This is what you should cook on a late Sunday morning to really spoil yourfamily. I can’t get enough of it. Additions will be welcomed: consider peas,greenbeans,friedonions,butteredsunflowerseedsandevengoldenraisins.

Serves4

4tbsppeanutoil,plusextratofinish2mediumonions,finelychopped4garliccloves,crushed6freshcurryleaves8cardamompods2tspcorianderseeds2tspgroundturmeric2freshgreenchiles,thinlyslicedcoarseseasalt2cupsbasmatirice3cupsplus2tbspwater1tbspwhitewinevinegar8mediumeggs11/3cupsparsleyleaves,chopped5cupscilantroleaves,chopped6tbsplimejuice8tbspGreekyogurtblackpepper

Preheattheovento350°F.Startwiththerice.Heatupthepeanutoilinalarge,heavy,ovenproofsaucepanforwhichyouhaveatight-fittinglid.Addtheonionsandgarlicandsautéonlowheatfor8minutes.Addthecurryleaves,cardamom,corianderseeds, turmeric,chilesand1teaspoonsalt.Continuetocookandstirfor4minutesonmediumheat.

Addthericeandstir tocoatintheoil.Addthewater(itshouldcome3/8inchabove the rice). Cover the pan and put it into the oven. Cook for about 25minutes. By this point the rice should be totally cooked. When you check,removethelidverybrieflysoyoudon’t loseall thesteaminthepan.Removethepanfromtheoven,keepingitcovered,andsetitasidesomewherewarm.

Fillashallowsaucepanwithenoughwaterforawholeeggtocookin.Addthevinegar and bring to a rapid boil. Carefully break each egg into a cup, thengently pour into the boilingwater. Immediately remove the pan from the heatandsetitaside.Afterabout4minutestheeggshouldbepoachedtoperfection.Using a slotted spoon carefully transfer the poached egg to a bowl of warmwater to keep it from cooling down.Once all the eggs are done, dry themonpapertowels.

Whenyou are nearly finished poaching the eggs, stir the parsley, cilantro andlimejuiceintothericeandfluffitupwithafork.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning.

Dividethericeamongindividualservingbowlsandspoonyogurtontop.Placetwo eggs on each portion, drizzle some oil on top and sprinkle with salt andpepper.

Freekehpilaf

We normally enjoy grains once they have matured and dried, but there is awidespread culinary tradition of consuming green, semi-mature grains, whichtaste grassier and are more nutritious than the dried version. Throughout theMiddleEastitiscommontoprocessyoungandgreendurumwheatintofreekeh.Thisisdonebyliterallyburningthewheatheadinordertoscorchthechaffandthustoassistremovingthegrain.Theresultislightlycharredgreengrainswithawonderfulsmokyaroma,whichareoftenusedlikericeorbulgurwheat.Freekehisn’teasytofindbutyoushouldcomeacrossitinMiddleEasterngroceryshops.Oryoucanusebulgurasasubstitute,inwhichcasereducethecookingtimeby10minutesandleavetostandaswiththefreekeh.

Thekeytothisdishisgoodstockwithalotofflavor.AsArabsnormallycookfreekehinchickenormuttonstock,Isuggestreducingagoodvegetablestockbyhalftointensifyit.

Serves2-4

2mediumonions,thinlysliced2tbspbutter1tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish1cupfreekeh(orbulgurwheat)1/4 tspgroundcinnamon1/4 tspgroundallspice11/4cupsgood-qualityreduced

vegetablestocksaltandblackpepper1/2cupGreekyogurt11/2tsplemonjuice1/2garlicclove,crushed1/8cupfinely

choppedparsley,plusextratogarnish1/8cupfinelychoppedmint2/3cupfinelychoppedcilantro2tbsppinenuts,toastedandroughlybroken

Placetheonions,butterandoliveoilinalargeheavypotandsautéonamediumheat, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20minutes, or until the onion is soft andbrown.

Meanwhile,soak the freekeh incoldwater for5minutes.Drain inasieveandrinsewellundercoldrunningwater.Drainwell.

Add the freekehandspices to theonions, followedby thestockandsomesaltand pepper. Stirwell. Bring to the boil, then cover, reduce the heat to a bareminimumand leave to simmer for 15minutes.Remove thepan from theheatandleaveitcoveredfor5minutes.Finally,removethelidandleavethepilaftocooldownalittle,aboutanother5minutes.

Whileyouwait,mixtheyogurtwiththelemonjuice,garlicandsomesalt.

Stir the herbs into the warm (not hot) pilaf. Taste and adjust the seasoning.Spoon onto serving dishes and top each portion with a generous dollop ofyogurt.Sprinklewithpinenutsandparsleyandfinishwithatrickleofoliveoil.

Itamar’sbulgurpilaf

Fulloflittlesurprises-wholepinkpeppercorns,currants,corianderseeds-thisis one of themost comforting dishes I’ve come across.You can serve itwithLeek Fritters and their sauce to create a light meal from heaven, or next toSmoky Frittata with someGreek yogurt on the side. Amillion thank-yous toItamarSrulovich.

Serves4-6

about6tbspoliveoil4smallwhiteonions,thinlysliced3redbellpeppers,cutintothinstrips21/2tbsptomatopaste1tbspsugar2tsppinkpeppercorns2tbspcorianderseeds2/3cupcurrants1cupmediumbulgurwheat13/4cupswatersaltandblackpepperhandfulofchoppedchives

Heat up the oliveoil in a largepot and sauté theonions andpeppers togetherovermedium-highheatfor12to15minutes,oruntiltheysoftenupcompletely.

Next,add the tomatopaste,sugar,spicesandcurrantsandstirasyoucookforabout2minutes.Addthebulgur,water,andsomesaltandpepper.Stir tomix,then bring to the boil.As soon as thewater boils, cover the potwith a tight-fittinglid,removefromtheheatandleavetositforatleast20minutes.

Finally,fluffupthebulgurwithaforkandstirinthechives.Ifthepilafseemsdry,addalittlemoreoliveoil.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning;it’slikelytoneedmoresaltandpepper.Servewarm.

Mangoandcoconutricesalad

Everybody knows now that the undisputed king of mangoes is the IndianAlphonso.Itisintenselysweetandhasanunbeatableperfumedaroma.I’dgoasfarassayingthatyouhaven’ttastedarealmangountilyou’vetriedanAlphonso(andnobodyispayingmeforthis).Theseason,though,isveryshort-mid-ApriltotheendofMay-sotrytopreparethissaladthen.

Serves4

2/3cupjasmineorbasmatirice1tspunsaltedbuttersalt1/2cupwater1cuplooselypackedThaibasil1cupCamargueredrice1redbellpepper,thinlysliced2tbspmintleaves,roughlychopped2/3cupcilantroleaves,roughlychopped2greenonions,thinlysliced1freshredchile,seededandfinelychoppedgratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1largemangoor2smallerones,cutroughlyinto1-inchdice1/2cuproastedsaltedpeanuts,roughlychopped2/3cupflakedcoconut2tbsppeanutoil3/4cupcrisp-friedshallots(homemadeorbought,optional)Startbycookingtherice.Putthejasminericeandbutterinasmallsaucepanandplaceonamediumheat.Addalittlesalt,thewaterandhalftheThaibasil(keeptheleavesattachedtothestalk).Bringtotheboil,thencoverandcookonaslowsimmerfor15to20minutes.Removeanddiscardthebasil.Spreadoutthericeonaflattraytocooldown.

Cooktheredriceinplentyofboilingwater(asyouwouldcookpastabutwithnosalt)for20minutes,oruntilitiscookedthrough.Drainandspreadonatraytocooldown.

Pickofftheleavesoftheremainingbasilandchopthemuproughly.Placethemin a large mixing bowl. Add the jasmine and red rice together with all theremainingingredients,apartfromtheshallots,andstirjusttomix;donotstirtoomuch or the mango pieces will disintegrate. Taste and adjust the seasoning.Transferthesaladintoservingbowlsandgarnishwithcrisp-friedshallots,ifyoulike.

QuinoasaladwithdriedPersianlime

I recently started using a new addictive substance - the small dried limes (orlemons) that appearwidely in Iranian cooking.They add a fantastic sharpnessanduniqueperfumedaromatostewsandmarinades.Forlong-cookedwetdishesyoujustthrowonein,lightlyperforated,anditwillimpartitsflavortothewholedish. In thissalad, though,Iuse it inpowderedform.Unfortunately this isnotsimple toachievebecause the limesare rockhard. Ifyouhavea spicegrinderyoushouldbefine;however,afoodprocessorwillstruggleandgiveyousomepowderthatyou’llthenneedtosieve.Youcanbuythelimesinpowderformbutthisisnotaspotentaswhatyoumakeyourself.Youcanfinddriedlimesonlineatkalustyans.comandfrommostMiddleEasternandNorthAfricanshops.

Serves4-6

2mediumsweetpotatoes(about12ozeach)7tbspoliveoilsaltandblackpepper1cupmixedbasmatiandwildrice1cupquinoa4garliccloves,thinlysliced3tbspshreddedsageleaves3tbsproughlychoppedoregano2tbspgrounddriedPersianlime6tbspshreddedmint4greenonions(greenpartsonly),thinlysliced,plusextratofinish1tsplemon

juice

6ozfeta,crumbled

Preheattheovento400°F.Peelthesweetpotatoesandcutthemintoroughly1-inchdice.Spreadinabakingpanlinedwithparchmentpaper,drizzleoverhalfthe oil and sprinklewith salt and pepper.Roast for 20 to 25minutes, or untiltender.

Meanwhile, cook the basmati andwild rice as instructed on the packet; drain.Placethequinoainapanwithplentyofboilingwaterandsimmerfor9minutes;draininafinesieve.Whendry(butstillwarm),transferthericeandquinoatoalargemixingbowl.

Pourtheremainingoilintoasmallfryingpantoheatup,thenfrythegarlicforabout30seconds,oruntil it turns lightgolden.Add thesageandoreganoandstirasyoufryforaboutaminute;watchtobesurethattheherbsorgarlicdon’tburn.Pourthecontentsofthepanoverthericeandquinoa.

Next,addtheroastedsweetpotatowithitsoil.Addthelimepowder,mint,greenonions, lemon juice, feta, and some salt and pepper. Toss everything togethergently,beingcarefulnottomushupthesweetpotatoandfeta.Tasteandadjustthe seasoning. Serve warmish, or at room temperature, garnished with greenonions.

Pasta,Polenta,Couscous

Lemonandgoatcheeseravioli

Thetrade-offforhavingtomakeyourownpastahereisthatthere’snosaucetolabor over. The combination of melting cheese, grapeseed oil and pink

peppercorns is delicate yet clearly present and satisfying. Choose a relativelysoftandquitemildgoatcheese.

Serves4asastarter

Pastadough3tbspoliveoil3mediumeggs111/2oz(about23/4cups)“00”pastaflour,plusextraforrolling1/4 tspground

turmericgratedzestof3lemonssemolina

Filling11ozsoftgoatcheese1/3tspMaldonseasaltpinchofchileflakesblackpepper1eggwhite,beaten

2tsppinkpeppercorns,finelycrushed1tspchoppedtarragongratedzestof1lemongrapeseedoillemonjuice(optional)

To make the pasta dough. Whisk together the oil and eggs. Put the flour,turmeric and lemon zest in a food processor, add the oil and eggmixture andblendtoacrumblydough.Itmightrequireextraflouroroil.Oncethedoughhascometogetherandissmooth(youmayneedtoworkitalittlebyhand),divideitinto four thick, rectangular blocks.Wrap them in plasticwrap and chill for atleast30minutes,orupto2days.

Lightlydustaworksurfacewithflour.Takeonepieceofdoughandflattenitonthe floured surface with a rolling pin. Set your pasta machine to the widestsetting and pass the dough through. Repeat, narrowing the setting by a notcheachtime,untilyougettothelowestsetting.Wheneachsheetisrolled,keepit

underamoisttowelsoitdoesn’tdryout.

Tomakethefilling.Combinethefillingingredients,apartfromtheeggwhite,inabowlandcrushtogetherwithafork.

Useapastrycutterortherimofaglasstostampoutroughly3-inchdiscsfromthepastasheets.Toshapeeachraviolo,brushadiscwithalittleeggwhiteandplaceaheapedteaspoonoffillinginitscenter.Placeanotherpastadiscontop.Dipyourfingersinflour,thengentlypressoutanyairasyousealtheedgesofthe two discs together. You should end up with a pillow-shaped centersurrounded by an edge that is just under 3/8 inchwide. Seal the sides of theedges together firmlyuntilyoucan’tseeaseamwhere the twodiscsmeet.Astheyaremade,placetheraviolionadishtowelortraysprinkledwithsemolina.Leavetodryfor10to15minutes.(Youcannowcoverthetraywithplasticwrapandkeeptheravioliinthefridgeforaday.)Whenreadytocook,bringalargepanofsaltedwatertotheboil.Cookthepastafor2to3minutes,oruntilaldente.Drainanddivideamongfourplates.Sprinklewithpinkpeppercorns, tarragonandlemonzest.Drizzlegrapeseedoilover theravioliandaroundthem,sprinklewithextrasaltandasquirtof lemonjuice, ifyoulike,andserveatonce.

Crunchypappardelle

Iusepanko,thecrispJapanesebreadcrumbs,toaddtexturetothiscreamypasta.The sauce dries out easily so I add some of the pasta’s cooking liquid beforeserving;makesureitisquiterunny.

Serves2

1/4cupoliveoil31/2cupsbuttonmushrooms,halved7tbspwhitewine1bayleaf3thymesprigs,leavespickedandchopped1/2tspsugar2/3cupheavycreamsaltandblackpeppergratedzestof1lemon1garlicclove,crushed3tbspchoppedparsley3tbsppanko1bunchbroccolini9ozdriedpappardelle

Bringalargepotofsaltedwaterandasmallpotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Heatthe olive oil over medium-high heat in a large saucepan and sauté themushroomsuntiltheystarttakingoncolor,stirringoccasionally.Addthewine,bayleaf,thymeandsugar.Bringtotheboilandreducetheliquidbytwo-thirds.Add the creamand stir tomix.Taste andaddplentyof salt andpepper.Keepwarm.

Mixtogetherthelemonzest,garlicandparsley.Inapanovermediumheat,toastthepankountilgolden,stirringoccasionally.

Pickany leaves from thebroccolini, thencut into21/2-inch-longpieces (stalksand florets). If the stalks are thick, cut them along the center in half or intoquarters.Blanchinthesmallpotofboilingwaterfor2minutesanddrain.

Addthepastatothelargepotofboilingwater.Whenthepastaisjustready,addthebroccolinitothecreamsaucetoreheat.Drainthepappardelle,keepingsomeofthecookingliquid,andstirwiththecreamsauce;addhalfoftheparsleymix.Ifthesauceseemsdry,addsomeofthereservedcookingliquid.

Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl. Stir the rest of the parsleymix into thepankoandsprinklegenerouslyoverthepappardelle,thenserveimmediately.

Pastaandfriedzucchinisalad

Iputtogooduseheremygrandmother’sfriedzucchini,hersignaturePassoverdish.Theyareasbeautifulontheirownastheyareinthissalad,whichmakesideal picnic grub. The pasta I’ve used is strozzapreti, which literally means“priestchoker”!Feelfreetosubstituteanotherinterestingshortpastashape.

Serves4

2/3cupsunfloweroil3mediumzucchini,cut into1/4-inch-thickslices11/2 tbsp redwinevinegar3/4

cupfrozenedamame2cupsbasilleaves,shreddedcoarsely1/4cupparsleyleaves1/3cupoliveoilsaltandblackpepper9ozstrozzapretiorpennegratedzestof1lemon11/2tbspsmallcapers7ozbuffalomozzarella,tornbyhandintochunks

Bringalargepotofsaltedwater toaboil.Heat thesunfloweroil inamediumsaucepan over medium-high heat. Fry the zucchini slices in a few batches,makingsureyoudon’tcrowdthem,for3minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownonbothsides; turn themover onceonly.As they are cooked, transfer to a colander todrain.Tipthezucchinislicesintoabowl,pouroverthevinegarandstir,thensetaside.

Blanchtheedamamefor3minutesinboilingwater;drain,refreshunderrunningcoldwaterandsetasidetodry.

Combinehalf thebasil,allof theparsleyandtheoliveoil inafoodprocessor,addingabitofsaltandpepper.Blitztoasmoothsauce.

Cook the pasta until al dente; drain and rinse under a stream of cold water.Returntothepaninwhichitwascooked.

Pourthezucchiniandtheirjuicesoverthepasta.Addtheedamame,basilsauce,lemon zest, capers andmozzarella. Stir gently together, then taste and seasonwithplentyofsaltandpepper.Beforeserving,stirintheremainingbasil.

Greencouscous

Agood-looking and evenbetter tasting side salad. It has strong flavors and isextremely healthful but still feels light and comforting. Serve itwith PoachedBaby Vegetables or with fish. Adding some feta will make it a bit moresubstantial.

Serves4

1cupcouscous3/4cupboilingwaterorvegetablestock1smallonion,thinlysliced1tbspoliveoil1/4tspsalt1/4tspgroundcuminHerbpaste1/3cupchoppedparsley1cupchoppedcilantro2tbspchoppedtarragon2tbspchoppeddill2tbspchoppedmint6tbspoliveoil

1/2cupunsaltedpistachios, toastedandroughlychopped3greenonions,finely

sliced1freshgreenchile,finelysliced11/4cuparugulaleaves,choppedPlace the couscous in a large bowl and coverwith the boilingwater or stock.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandleavefor10minutes.

Meanwhile, fry the onion in the olive oil on medium heat until golden and

completelysoft.Addthesaltandcuminandmixwell.Leavetocoolslightly.

Tomake theherbpaste.Placeall the ingredients ina foodprocessorandblitzuntilsmooth.

Addtheherbpastetothecouscousandmixeverythingtogetherwellwithaforkto fluff it up. Now add the cooked onion, the pistachios, green onions, greenchileandarugulaandgentlymix.Serveatroomtemperature.

Saffrontagliatellewithspicedbutter

Counterintuitive as this combination of pasta withMoroccan-style buttermayseem, it is absolutely delicious and I am sure that once tried you’ll keep oncomingbacktoit.Insteadofhomemadeyoucangoforagoodvarietyofdriedpastaandaddadecentpinchofsaffronthreadstothecookingwater.

Serves4

2tspsaffronthreads4tbspboilingwater4mediumeggs4tbspoliveoil151/2oz(31/2cups)“00”pastaflour,plusextraforrolling1tspgroundturmeric

Spicedbutter1cup(2sticks)butter4tbspoliveoil8shallots,finelychopped1tspgroundginger1tspsweetpaprika1tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcinnamon1tspcayennepepper1/2tspchileflakes1/2tspgroundturmeric1tspsaltblackpepper

2/3cuppinenuts,toastedandroughlychopped4tbsproughlychoppedmint4tbsproughlychoppedparsley

Placethesaffroninasmallbowlwiththeboilingwaterandleavetoinfuseforatleast10minutes.Thenaddtheeggsandoilandbeattomix.Placetheflourandturmericinthebowlofafoodprocessorandaddthesaffronmix.Blenduntilacrumblydoughisformed.Youmayneedalittlemoreoilorflourtoadjustthe

doughtotherequiredconsistency-neitherstickynorverydry.

Lightly dust your surfacewith flour, tip out the dough and knead into a ball.Workfora fewminutes,addingmoreflour ifyouneed,until itbecomessilkysoft.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandchillfor30minutes,oruptoaday.

Divide thedough into twopieces.Keeponewellcovered.Usinga rollingpin,flatten theotherpiece intoa thinrectangle.Set thepastamachine to itswidestsetting and pass the dough through. Continue rolling the pasta, narrowing thesettingbyanotcheverytime,untilyougettothelowestsetting.

Foldupthepastasheettwicealongitslength,sprinklingsomeflourbetweenthelayers.Usealargeknifetocutlongstripsthatare3/4inchwide.Hangthemonthebackofachairtodryfor10minutes.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.

Tomakethespicedbutter.Placethebutterandoilinafryingpanandcooktheshallots gently for about 10minutes, or until they soften and the butter turnsslightlybrown.Nowaddallthespices,thesaltandsomepepper.Removefromtheheatandkeepwarm.

Cookthetagliatellefor2to3minutes,oruntilaldente.Drainandreturntothesaucepan.Pourthespicedbutteroverthepastaandstirwell,thendivideamongfourplates.Sprinklewiththepinenutsandchoppedherbsandserve.

Theultimatewintercouscous

Someonecomplained to theGuardian about the long listof ingredients in thisrecipe.ButIknewitwasasuccesswhenafriendspotteditonthemenu(withaduecredit)oftheSunandDoves,acoolandartypubinCamberwell.

Serves4,orevenmore

2mediumcarrots,peeledandcutinto3/4-inchchunks2mediumparsnips,peeledandcutinto3/4-inchchunks8shallots,peeled

2cinnamonsticks4staranise3bayleaves5tbspoliveoilsalt1/2 tsp ground ginger 1/4 tsp ground turmeric 1/4 tsp hot paprika 1/4 tsp chile

flakes21/2cupscubedpumpkinorbutternutsquash(froma10ozsquash)1/2cup dried apricots, roughly chopped 1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshlycooked)

11/2cupschickpeacookingliquidand/orwater1cupcouscouslargepinchofsaffron1cupboilingvegetablestock3tbspbutter,brokenintopieces2tbspharissa1ozpreservedlemon,finelychopped2cupscilantroleaves

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a largeovenproofdish.Addthecinnamonsticks,staranise,bayleaves,4tablespoonsoftheoil,3/4teaspoonsaltandalltheotherspicesandmixwell.Placeintheovenandcookfor15minutes.

Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35minutes, bywhich time the vegetables should have softenedwhile retaining abite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking liquid

and/orwater.Returntotheovenandcookforafurther10minutes,oruntilhot.

About15minutesbefore thevegetables are ready,put the couscous in a largeheatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron and 1/2teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the bowlwithplasticwrapandleaveforabout10minutes.Thenaddthebutterandfluffupthecouscouswithaforkuntilthebuttermeltsin.Coveragainandleavesomewherewarm.

To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa andpreserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon thevegetablesontothecenterofthecouscous.Finishwithplentyofcilantroleaves.

Mushroomandherbpolenta

Whencookingpolentamyfatheralwaysmakesmuchmorethanheneeds.Halfofitheservesrightawayintherunnystate,likeamash,withaflavorfulsauce.Theresthespreadsontoanoiledsurfaceandallowstoset.Thenextdayhecutsout chunks, fries them in olive oil and serves with a chunky vegetable salad(tomato, cucumber, romaine lettuce)dressed lightlywith redwinevinegarandolive oil. The dish here uses soft polenta, but you may want to double thequantitytofollowmyfather’sidea.

Notethattherearetwotypesofpolentameal(orcornmeal)available-aquickorinstantvariety and the traditional, slow-cookingone.Formostpurposes I findthatthequickpolentaisgoodenough.Eitheronecanbeusedforthisdish.

Serves2

4tbspoliveoil4cupsmixedmushrooms,verylargeoneshalved2garliccloves,crushed1tablespoonchoppedtarragon1tablespoonchoppedthyme1tablespoontruffleoilsaltandblackpepper21/4cupsvegetablestock1/2cuppolenta(instantortraditional)3ozParmesan,

grated21/2tbspbutter1teaspoonfinelychoppedrosemary1tablespoonchoppedchervil4ozTaleggio(rindremoved),cutinto3/8-inchslices

Heathalf theoliveoil ina large fryingpanovermedium-highheat.Oncehot,addhalfof themushroomsandfry fora fewminutes,oruntil justcooked; trynot to move them much so you get golden-brown patches on their surface.Removefromthepan,andrepeatwiththerestofthemushroomsandoil.Offtheheat, return all themushrooms to the pan and add the garlic, tarragon, thyme,truffleoilandsomesaltandpepper.Keepwarm.

Bringthestocktotheboilinasaucepan.Slowlystirinthepolenta,thenreducetheheattotheminimumandcook,stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoon.Thepolentaisreadywhenitleavesthesidesofthepanbutisstillrunny.Ifyouareusing instant polenta this shouldn’t takemore than 5minutes;with traditionalpolenta it could takeup to50minutes (if it seems todryout, add somemorestockorwaterbutjustenoughtokeepitatathickporridgeconsistency).

Preheat the broiler. When the polenta is ready, stir in the Parmesan, butter,rosemaryandhalf thechervil.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Spread thepolentaoveraheatproofdishandtopwiththeTaleggio.Placeunderthebroileruntilthecheesebubbles.Remove,topwiththemushroomsandtheirjuices,andreturntothe broiler for aminute towarm up. Serve hot, garnishedwith the remainingchervil.

Sweetcornpolenta

Polentamadefromfreshcornisalmostlikebabyfood,butinagoodsense.Itissmooth,sweetandsoothing,abit likeachunkysavoryporridge.It ismyidealheartwarming supper meal. Just keep in mind that it is nothing like regularpolentamadefromcornmeal-itissofterandnotassubstantial.

Thisdish isavariationonarecipeby twoinspiringIsraeli foodwriters,HaimCohenandEliLandau.

Serves4

Eggplantsauce2/3cupvegetableoil1mediumeggplant,cutinto3/4-inchdice2tsptomatopaste1/4cupwhitewine1cupchoppedpeeledtomatoes(freshorcanned)61/2tbspwater1/4tspsalt1/4tspsugar1tbspchoppedoregano

Polenta6earsofcorn21/4cupswater3tbspbutter,diced7ozfeta,crumbled1/4tspsaltblackpepper

Tomake the eggplant sauce. Heat up the oil in a large saucepan and fry theeggplantonmediumheatforabout15minutes,oruntilnicelybrown.Drainoffasmuchoilasyoucananddiscardit.Addthetomatopastetothepanandstirwiththeeggplant.Cookfor2minutes,thenaddthewineandcookfor1minute.Addthechoppedtomatoes,water,salt,sugarandoreganoandcookforafurther5minutestogetadeep-flavoredsauce.Setaside;warmitupwhenneeded.

Tomakethepolenta.Removetheleavesand“silk”fromeachearofcorn,thenchopoffthepointedtopandstalk.Standeachearuprightonitsbaseanduseasharpknifetoshaveoffthekernels.Youwanttohave11/4lbsofkernels.

Placethekernelsinamediumsaucepanandcoverthemwiththewater.Cookfor12minutes on a low simmer.Use a slotted spoon to lift the kernels from thewater and into a food processor; reserve the cooking liquid. Process them forquiteafewminutes,tobreakasmuchofthekernelcaseaspossible.Addsomeofthecookingliquidifthemixturebecomestoodrytoprocess.

Now return the cornpaste to the panwith the cooking liquid and cook,whilestirring, on low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the mixture thickens to amashedpotatoconsistency.Foldinthebutter,thefeta,saltandsomepepperandcookforafurther2minutes.Tasteandaddmoresaltifneeded.

Dividethepolentaamongshallowbowlsandspoonsomewarmeggplantsauceinthecenter.

FruitwithCheese

Figswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigrette

Fresh figsareavailable in summerand thenmakeanother short appearance inautumn.When they are good they are amazing, a word I use way too often,

althoughinthiscaseItotallystandbehindit.Theunctuoussweetnessofafreshfig,combinedwithitsripe-richtexture,isunbeatable.InIsraelandPalestinefigtreesaretobefoundeverywhere,andpickingthefruitandeatingitstraightoffthe tree is a childhood experience I am afraid I can’t replicate in the UnitedKingdom.Still,IcanbuygoodFrenchorItalianfigs,adayortwoold,fromLaFromagerie in London. Good figs are heavy and slightly squidgy and have anoticeablesweetsmell;theyoftentendtocrackattheirbase.Sticktothoseandyou’llbefine.Butnomatterwhatyoudo,don’tbuyunder-ripesupermarketfigsthathavebeencargoedherefromtheendsoftheworld.Useaveryyoungandcreamygoatcheese(seeCaramelizedFennelwithGoatCheese,page172).

Serves4

1shallot,finelychopped1/2tspDijonmustard2tsppomegranatemolassessaltandblackpepper3tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish11/2cupsarugula3/4cupmixedpurpleandgreenbasilleaves8ripefigs,atroom

temperature21/2ozyoungandcreamygoatcheesePlace the shallot,mustard and pomegranatemolasses in amedium bowl.Addsomesaltandpepperandwhiskvigorouslyasyouslowlypourintheoliveoil.Youareaimingforahomogenousdressing.

Add most of the arugula and basil leaves to the dressing, reserving some tofinish the salad, and toss gently. Lift the dressed leaves onto a large servingplate,spreadingthemouttolineit.

Cut the figs vertically into quarters and arrangeover the leaves.Next, dot thefigsandleaveswithteaspoonfulsofcheese.Scatter thereservedleavesontop,drizzlewithextraoilandseasonwithsomesaltandpepper.

Goatcheesesouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeaches

Back in the 1990s I was the pastry chef at Launceston Place, a restaurant inLondon that was regularly haunted by politicians, English nobility and, mostnotably,byPrincessDiana.Inthosedays-andhowdatedthisseemsnow-theyhadadeliciousdouble-bakedgoatcheese soufflé starter. Itnevercameoff themenuandhadalsobecomearegularfeatureinmanyotherrestaurants.Theonlyvariation allowedwas the sweet seasonal condiment that camewith it.This ismylittletributetothemandto‘90sfood.

Serves6-10,dependingonthesizeofyourramekins

Poachedpeaches2/3cupwater2/3cupwhitewine3/4 cup sugar 1/2 tspblackpeppercorns 1/2 vanillapod, split and seeds scraped

out2to3mediumpeaches,peeled

5tbspunsaltedbutteratroomtemperature,plusextratobrushtheramekins1/2

cupgroundhazelnuts1cupplus2tbspmilk1bayleaf1/2onion,studdedwithafewcloves1/3cupall-purposeflour6ozhardgoatcheese(skinremoved),brokenintopieces5eggs,separated,plus

1eggwhite1/3tspsalt3tbspheavycreampersoufflé,ifreheating

Tomakethepoachedpeaches.Putalltheingredientsinamediumsaucepan(thepeachesmaynotbetotallycoveredwithliquid;thisisfine).Bringtoasimmerandcookgently,covered,forabout15minutes,turningthepeachesoveronce.Theyneedtobesoftbutshouldn’tdisintegrate.Leavethemtocooldowninthejuices.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put a large roasting pan inside and pour into it

enoughboilingwatertocome3/4inchupitssides.Takeindividualramekinsandbrush their sides andbottomswith soft butter. Spoon in groundhazelnuts andturntheramekinstocoat theinsideevenly.Removeanyexcessnutsandplacetheramekinsinthefridge.

Inasmallsaucepancombinethemilk,bayleafandonion.Bringtotheboil,thensetaside.Takeamediumsaucepan,setonmediumheatandmeltthebutter.Addtheflourasyoustirwithawoodenspoonandcookwhilestirringfor2minutes.Discardthebayleafandonionandgraduallyaddthemilktothebuttermixasyoustir.Continuecookingandstirringfor3minutesasthemixturethickens.Offtheheat,stirinthecheese,thentheyolksandsalt.Transfertoamixingbowl.

Inaseparatebowlwhisktheeggwhitestosoftpeaks,thengentlyfoldthemintothecheesemix.Divideamongtheramekins,fillingthemalmosttothebrim.Setthemcarefully in the panofwater in the oven.Bake for 10 to 12minutes, oruntilgoldenbrownandrisen.Youcannowservethesoufflésdirectlyfromtheoven.

Alternatively, turn off the oven and leave the soufflés inside for 10 minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenandallowthesoufflés tocooldowninit.Nowrunaknife around the insideof the ramekinsand takeout the soufflés.Place,bottom side up, on a baking sheet linedwith parchment paper (you can leavethemthere,covered,forupto4hours).

Whenreadytoserve,preheattheovento325°F.Drizzleabout3tablespoonsofcreamovereachsoufflé.Place thebakingsheet in theovenandwarmupwellfor about 8 minutes. Serve each soufflé with a few slices of peach (not toomany!)drizzledwithalittlejuice.

QuinceandsweetGorgonzolasalad

DuringacookingclassIgaveatLeith’safewyearsagoawomancameuptomeandsaid:“I’vegota tree fullofquinces inmygardenbut Idon’tdoanythingwith them. I am scared of quince.”She’s not alone.The daunting thing aboutquinceisthepreparation.Althoughithastheinnocentlookof,say,anappleora

pear,itisrockhardandrequireslongcookingbeforebecomingedible.

Still,onceyou’vegotridofyourquinceaversionandtriedpreparingityourself,you’llbeamazedbythetransformationitgoesthrough,fromanunyielding,dull,off-white,hardmassintoamagnificentredfruitwithasoft,perfumedflesh.Youcanthenuseitinplentyofcontexts:indessertsorsalads,ortoaccompanyfattyandrichmeatssuchaslamb,gameorpork.

Anyquincesyrupleftaftermakingthissalad(picturedonpages276to277)youcanwarmupandpourovervanillaicecream.

Serves4asastarter

13/4cupswater11/2cupssugar15blackpeppercorns4stripsoforangezest2bayleavesjuiceof1/2lemon3/4cupredwine2mediumquinces1tspgrainymustard2tspcidervinegar4tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinishsaltandblackpepper21/2 cupsmixed leaves (such asmizuna, dandelion,watercress or radicchio di

Treviso)4to5ozsweetGorgonzolascant1/2cupshelledunsaltedpistachios, lightly toasted,somewholeandsome

roughlychoppedPreheat theoven to275°F.Takeamedium-sizedheavypan thatcango in theoven and forwhich you have a tight-fitting lid. Place inside thewater, sugar,peppercorns,orangezest,bayleaves,lemonjuiceandredwine.Setonthestoveand bring to a light simmer.As soon as the sugar dissolves, remove from theheat.

Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to peel the quinces; keep the skin.With aheavyknife,cutthefruitverticallyintoquartersandremovethecore;keepthistoo. Cut each quarter into two segments. Place the quince segments, plus theskins and cores, in the sugar syrup.Cover the pan and put it into the oven to

cookforabout2hours.Afterthistimethequinceshouldbecompletelytender.Removefromtheovenandleavetocool,uncovered.

Whisk together until smooth the mustard, vinegar, oil, 4 tablespoons of thequincecookingliquid,1/2teaspoonsaltandagoodgrindofblackpepper.

Tofinishthesalad,placesomesaladleavesonfourservingplates.Arrangefourquincesegmentsperportionandsomehand-brokenpiecesofGorgonzolaontheleaves. Try to build the salad up. Place a fewmore leaves on top. Spoon thedressingoverandscatteroverthepistachios.Finishwithalightdrizzleofoliveoil.Alternatively,arrangesimilarlyinalarge,centralmixingbowlandbringtothetable.

Pearcrostini

MydadalwaysquotesanoldTuscansayingthatwasoftenusedinconversationbetweenalandownerandthesupervisoroftheland:Alcontadinononfarsapere

quanto è buono il formaggio con le pere. The beautiful Italian melodyunfortunately doesn’t carry through to the English translation: To the peasantdarenottellhowpearswithcheesetastesowell.

As well as revealing something about the class structure in the Italiancountrysideandabouttheexistentialanxietiesofthelandowners,thephrasealsomakes a much less explosive, but still profound, truth about the sublimecombination of pear and cheese, particularly the Grandes Dames of Italiancheese,Parmesanandpecorino.

HereIgoforgoatcheese,whichisjustasgoodwithpearwhenchosenwell.Itshouldbeanartisanaloneandfullofflavor.Youalsoneedpearsthatarefirm,yet sweet and slightly tart. Super-ripe pears, as much as I love them, willovercookandturnmushy.

Serves4generously

1/4cuppinenuts5tbspoliveoil,plusextratofinish1garlicclove,peeledsaltandblackpepper4largeslicessourdoughbread,cut11/2inchesthick3semi-ripepears(unpeeled)2tspsugar2tsplemonjuice4to5ozgood-qualitygoatcheesepickedchervilleavestogarnish

Preheattheovento400°F.Placethepinenuts,4tablespoonsoftheoliveoil,thegarlic,apinchofsaltandsomeblackpepperinthebowlofafoodprocessorandwork to a coarse and wet paste. Use a brush to apply to one side of everysourdoughslice.Laythebreadslicesonabakingsheetandbakefor10minutes,oruntillightlycolored.Removeandallowtocoolslightly.

Whilethebreadisintheoven,preparethepears.Standeachpearonachoppingboardanduseasharpknife to trimoffavery thin layerof theskinfromeachside.Thencuteachpearlengthwaysintofourthickslices.Removethecorewith

thetipofaknife.Placetheslicesinabowlwiththeremaining1tablespoonofoil,thesugar,lemonjuiceandapinchofsalt.Tossgently.

Takearidgedgriddlepanandplaceonahighheatuntilpipinghot.Laythepearslicesgentlyinthepanandleaveforaboutaminuteoneachside,justtomakecharmarks.Turncarefullyandthenremovewithtongs,tryingnottobreakthepears.

To assemble the crostini, slice the cheese thinly and arrange over the toasts,alongside thepears.Youwant tobeable toseebothclearly, soallow them tooverlapandrestoneachothertocreateheight.Placethecrostiniintheovenfor3to4minutes,justtowarmupandforthecheesetopartlymelt.Removefromtheoven.

Garnishthecrostiniwiththepickedchervilleaves,drizzlewithoilandsprinklewithfreshlygroundblackpepper.Servehotorwarm.

DatesandTurkishsheep’scheese

Turkishgrocersandsupermarkets- therearemanyof themdottedaroundEastandNortheastLondon-offerabountifulselectionoffreshandflavorfulproducethat you can never find in a normal supermarket. The vegetables are usuallyburstingwithflavor,andyoucanalsogetsomefantasticfreshbreadsandmanydriedproductsfromallovertheBalkans.

IgototheTurkishFoodCenterinDalston,nearOttolenghiinIslington,fortheirwonderful cheeses. There are, literally, dozens of varieties on offer - mostlywhiteyoungcheesesinbrine.Theyareavailablefromthecheesecounter,wheretheyfloatinwonderfullymurkywatersthatkeepthemfreshandmoist,butalsoin jars, plastic wraps, vacuum-packed and even cans. Think feta, halloumi orricotta and then extend the range of flavors and textures tenfold. Some arecreamyandlight,otherssaltyandcrumbly.Someyoucansliceandfry,othersspreadlikecreamcheese.Thebest,Ifind,arethesheep’smilkcheeses.Asktotastefromthecounterorjustgamblewiththepre-packedvarieties.Youcan’tgofarwrong.

Serves4asastarter

11/2tbspwholealmonds(skinon)6largeMedjooldates(5ozintotal)21/2 cups arugula 4 to 5 oz lightly salted Turkish sheep’s cheese (or buffalo

ricottaorbuffalomozzarella),brokenorcutintopiecesafewleavesofdill3/4cupmixedpurpleandgreenbasilleaves,andredchardleaves3tbspoliveoil11/2tsppomegranatemolassessaltandblackpepper

Preheattheovento300°F.Spreadthealmondsinasmallbakingpanandroastthemfor8to10minutes,oruntil theyturnanicebrowninside.Removefromtheovenandleavetocooldown.

Halve thedates lengthwaysandremoveanddiscard thepit.Cuteachhalf intofourtosixlongslices.

Spreadthearugulaoverthebottomofeachservingdish.Ontop,buildupdates,

cheese, dill, basil and red chard, making sure you can clearly see all fourelements.

Mixtogetherwelltheoliveoil,pomegranatemolassesandsomesaltandpepper,anddrizzleoverthesalad.Roughlychopthealmonds,sprinkleontopandserve.

Watermelonandfeta

Thisyoumusteatonthebeach,oratleastoutdoors,onahotday,withthesun’srays unobstructed. It reminds me of hot sweaty nights on the seafront in TelAviv, when everyone is out enjoying beer, loud music and often a heatedconversation.Thesweetjuicinessofthewatermelonandthecrumblysaltinessofthe feta give this salad all its character. So make sure you choose the bestpossibleofboth(forothersaltycheesesyoucanusehere,seeDatesandTurkishSheep’sCheese,page280).

Serves4

10ozfeta41/2 cups large chunks ofwatermelon 3/4 cupbasil leaves 1/2 small red onion,

verythinlysliced(optional)oliveoil

Slice the feta into large but thin pieces, or just break it by hand into roughchunks.

Arrangealltheingredients,excepttheoliveoil,onaplatter,mixingthemupalittle.Drizzleoversomeoilandserveatonce.

Indexaioli,tarragonapricots,ultimatewintercouscousartichokes

globe,withcrushedfavabeansgratinlemonyglobemulti-vegetablepaella

arugulabakedeggswithyogurtandchiledatesandTurkishsheep’scheesefigswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigrettegreencouscous

asparaguschar-grilledfennel,beetsand,withverjusgreenlentils,watercressandmimosapoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaisevichyssoise

avocadossalad,quinoa,favabeanandsalsa

Bánhxèobarley

andpomegranatesaladyogurtflatbreadswithmushroomsand

basilfigswithgoatcheese,pomegranatevinaigrette,andoil

beans see also black beans; chickpeas; edamame; fava beans; lima beansbroccoliniandsweetsesamesaladgado-gadogreenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragon

meegorengmixed,withmanyspicesandlovageTamara’sratatouille

Béchamelbeets

asparagus,fenneland,withverjusrelish,yogurt,preservedlemonandsalad,orange,blackoliveand

blackbeanspastequesadillas

breadmushroomragoutwithpoachedduckeggpearcrostiniquinoaandgrilledsourdoughsaladscrambledsmokyduckeggsonsourdoughsoup,chickpea,tomatoandyogurtflatbreadswithbarleyandmushrooms

broccoliandGorgonzolapiepurplesprouting,withricenoodles

broccolinicrunchypappardelleandsweetsesamesaladBrusselssproutsandtofu

bulgarkısırpilaf,Itamar’s

burgers,favabeanbutter

limespiced

buttermilksauce,eggplantwith

cabbagegado-gadoandkohlrabisalad

Savoy,andParmesanrindsoupstuffedsweetwinterslaw

capersmayonnaisevinaigrette

cardamomricewithpoachedeggsandyogurtcarrots

poachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaisesalad,spicyMoroccan

cauliflowersaffronsmokyfrittata

celeriacandlentilswithhazelnutandmintparsnipdumplingsinbroth

chardseeSwisschardCheddar

quesadillassmokyfrittata

cheeseseeindividualcheesescherries

cabbageandkohlrabisaladchickpeas

hummuswithfulsautéwithGreekyogurtsoccasoup,tomato,breadandstew,Swisschard,tamarindandultimatewintercouscous

choisummeegorengcilantro

cardamomricewithpoachedeggsandyogurtherbpasteokrawithtomato,lemonandsobanoodleswithwakamesoup,tomato,semolinaand

steamedricewithherbsultimatewintercouscous

coconutandcoconutmilkBánhxèopurplesproutingbroccoliwithricenoodlesriceandmangosaladricewithsambalandokrasataysauce

cornpolenta,sweetcouscous

greentomatopartyultimatewinter

crostini,pearcucumbers

burnteggplantwithtahinigado-gadogreengazpachoquinoaandgrilledsourdoughsaladsaladwithsmashedgarlicandgingersobanoodleswithwakameyogurt,spicedredlentilswith

datesandTurkishsheep’scheeseduckeggs

poached,mushroomragoutwithscrambledsmoky,onsourdough

dumplings,parsnip,inbroth

edamamepastaandfriedzucchinisaladwarmglassnoodlesand

eggplantbroiledvegetablesoupburnt,withtahiniwithbuttermilksaucecroquettes

grilled,lentilswithandlemonrisotto“mixedgrill”withparsleyoilsaucesobanoodleswithmangoandTamara’sratatouilletricolore(andmore)(MORE)veryfulltart-(MORE)

eggsseealsoduckeggsasparagusmimosabaked,withyogurtandchilechardandsaffronomelettesgado-gadogoatcheesesouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeachHalloweensouffléspizza,spinach,pecorinoandpoached,cardamomricewithyogurtandroyalpotatosaladshakshukasmokyfrittata

endivecaramelized,withGruyèreJerusalemartichokeswithmanouriandbasiloilnutty,withRoquefort

farroandroastedpeppersaladfavabeans

burgerscrushed,globeartichokeswithandhotyogurtsouphummuswithfulmarinatedmushroomswithwalnutandtahiniyogurtmixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovagemulti-vegetablepaellasalad,avocado,quinoaand

fennelasparagus,beetsand,withverjus

caramelized,withgoatcheesechickpea,tomatoandbreadsoupmulti-vegetablepaellapoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaise

fetachar-grilledasparaguseggplantcroquettesfarroandroastedpeppersaladfriedlimabeanswithsorrel,sumacandmushroomlasagnequinoasaladwithdriedPersianlimestuffedonionssweetcornpolentaveryfulltart-(MORE)watermelonand

figswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigrettefontina,mushroomlasagnefreekehpilaffrittata,smokyfritters,leekful,hummuswith

gado-gadogalettes,Puylentilgarlic

souptart,caramelized

gazpacho,greengoatcheese

caramelizedfennelwithcaramelizedgarlictartfigswithbasil,pomegranatevinaigretteandHalloweensoufflésandlemonraviolipearcrostinisouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeachessurprisetatin

GorgonzolaandbroccolipieCastellucciolentilswithtomatoesandsweet,andquincesalad

grapeleaf,herbandyogurtpieGruyère

caramelizedendivewithmushroomlasagne

Halloweensoufflésharissahazelnuts

celeriacandlentilswithmintandgoatcheesesouffléswithvanilla-poachedpeachesHalloweensoufflésandzucchinisalad

hummuswithful

JerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloil

kashkavalcheese,chardcakeswithsorrelsaucekısırkohlrabi

andcabbagesalad“mixedgrill”withparsleyoil

lasagne,mushroomleeks

asparagusvichyssoisebroccoliandGorgonzolapiefriedfritterspoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaise

lemonsandeggplantrisotto

andgoatcheeseraviolilemonyglobeartichokesrelish,preserved

lentilsCastelluccio,withtomatoesandGorgonzolaceleriacand,withhazelnutandmintgalettes,Puygreen,asparagusandwatercresswithgrilledeggplantspicedred,withcucumberyogurt

lettucesaladlimabeans

broiledvegetablesoupfried,withfeta,sorrelandsumac

limesbutterdriedPersian,quinoasaladwithroastedbutternutsquashwithsweetspices,greenchileand

macadamianuts,sweetwinterslawmangoes

andcoconutricesaladsobanoodleswitheggplantandsweetwinterslaw

ManouriJerusalemartichokeswithbasiloiland“mixedgrill”withparsleyoil

mayonnaise,capermeegoreng“mixedgrill”withparsleyoilMoroccancarrotsalad,spicymozzarella,buffalo

eggplanttricolore(andmore)(MORE)marinated,andtomatopastaandfriedzucchinisalad

mushroomsBánhxèo

brusselssproutsandtofucrunchypappardelleandherbpolentalasagnemarinated,withwalnutandtahiniyogurtparcel,wildragoutwithpoachedduckeggstuffedportobellowithmeltingTaleggioyogurtflatbreadswithbarleyand

noodlesseepastaandnoodles

oils

basilparsley

okracoconutricewithsambalandwithtomato,lemonandcilantro

olivesherb-stuffedtomatoesmulti-vegetablepaellaokrawithtomato,lemonandcilantrosaffroncauliflowersalad,beet,orangeand

omelettes,chardandsaffrononions,stuffedoranges

bittersweetsaladsalad,beet,blackoliveand

paella,multi-vegetablepancakes

Bánhxèogreen,withlimebuttersocca

papayas,sweetwinterslawParmesan

crustedpumpkinwedgeswithsourcreamlemonandeggplantrisottomushroomandherbpolentamushroomlasagnerindandSavoycabbagesouproyalpotatosaladstuffedcabbagestuffedportobellowithmeltingTaleggiozucchiniandhazelnutsalad

parsleyoilparsnips

dumplingsinbrothandsweetpotatoes,roasted,withcapervinaigretteTamara’sratatouilleultimatewintercouscous

pastaandnoodlesseealsocouscouscrunchypappardelleandfriedzucchinisaladlemonandgoatcheeseraviolimeegorengmushroomlasagnepurplesproutingbroccoliwithricenoodlessaffrontagliatellewithspicedbuttersobanoodleswitheggplantandmangosobanoodleswithwakamestuffedcabbagewarmglassnoodlesandedamame

peaches,vanilla-poached,goatcheesesouffléswithpeanuts

mangoandcoconutricesaladsataysauce

pearcrostinipeas

Bánhxèobroccoliniandsweetsesamesaladgreenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragonlemonyglobeartichokes

mixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovageroyalpotatosalad

pecorinogreenlentils,asparagusandwatercressmarinatedpeppersaladwithpizza,egg,spinachand

peppersbroiledvegetablesoupeggplanttricolore(andmore)(MORE)greengazpachoharissaItamar’sbulgarpilafmulti-vegetablepaellapreservedlemonrelishroasted,andfarrosaladsalad,marinated,withpecorinoshakshukaTamara’sratatouilletwo-potatovindalooveryfulltart-(MORE)

piesbroccoliandGorgonzolagrapeleaf,herbandyogurt

pilaffreekehItamar’sbulgar

pistachiosgreencouscousquinceandsweetGorgonzolasaladwatercress,pistachioandorangeblossomsalad

pizza,egg,spinachandpecorinopolenta

mushroomandherbsweetcorn

pomegranatesandbarleysaladbittersweetsalad

burnteggplantwithtahinieggplantwithbuttermilksaucekısır239

potatoesasparagusvichyssoiseeggplantcroquettesfavabeanburgersgado-gadoparsnipdumplingsinbrothsalad,royalSavoycabbageandParmesanrindsoupsurpriseTatinTamara’sratatouillevindaloo,two-wildmushroomparcel

puffpastrybroccoliandGorgonzolapiecaramelizedgarlictartPuylentilgalettessurprisetatin

pumpkinHalloweensoufflésultimatewintercouscouswedges,crusted,withsourcream

quesadillasquinceandsweetGorgonzolasaladquinoa

andgrilledsourdoughsaladsalad,avocado,favabeanandsaladwithdriedPersianlime

radicchio

bittersweetsaladlettucesalad

radishesavocado,quinoaandfavabeansalad

lettucesaladratatouille,Tamara’sravioli,lemonandgoatcheeserelish,preservedlemonrice

cardamom,withpoachedeggsandyogurtcoconut,andmangosaladcoconut,withsambalandokrahotyogurtandfavabeansouplemonandeggplantrisottomulti-vegetablepaellaquinoasaladwithdriedPersianlimesteamed,withherbsstuffedcabbagestuffedzucchiniSwisschard,chickpeaandtamarindstew

ricottabittersweetsaladgratinmushroomlasagnestuffedcabbageveryfulltart-(MORE)

risotto,lemonandeggplantRoquefort,nuttyendivewith

saffron

cauliflowertagliatellewithspicedbutter

saladsavocado,quinoaandfavabeanbarleyandpomegranatebeet,orangeandblackolivebittersweetbroccoliniandsweetsesamecabbageandkohlrabicucumber,withsmashedgarlicandgingerdatesandTurkishsheep’scheese

farroandroastedpepperfigswithbasil,goatcheeseandpomegranatevinaigrettegado-gadogreenbean,withmustardseedsandtarragongreenlentils,asparagusandwatercresslettucemangoandcoconutricemarinatedpepper,withpecorinopastaandfriedzucchiniquinceandsweetGorgonzolaquinoa,withdriedPersianlimequinoaandgrilledsourdoughroyalpotatospicyMoroccancarrotsweetwinterslawwatercress,pistachioandorangeblossomzucchiniandhazelnut

salsasambalsataysaucesauces

Béchamelbuttermilkeggplantsalsasataysorrel

scamorza,smokyfrittatashakshukaslaw,sweetwintersobanoodles

witheggplantandmangowithwakame

soccasorrel

friedlimabeanswithfeta,sumacandsauce

soufflésgoatcheese,withvanilla-poachedpeachesHalloween

soupsasparagusvichyssoisebroiledvegetablechickpea,tomatoandbreadgarlicgreengazpachohotyogurtandfavabeanSavoycabbageandParmesanrindtomato,semolinaandcilantro

spinachfavabeanburgersgreengazpachogreenpancakeswithlimebutterpizza,egg,pecorinoandPuylentilgalettes

sproutsBánhxèocabbageandkohlrabisaladgado-gadomeegorengsobanoodleswithwakame

squashseealsozucchiniroastedbutternut,withsweetspices,limeandgreenchileultimatewintercouscous

surpriseTatinsweetpotatoes

cakesquinoasaladwithdriedPersianlimeroastedparsnipsand,withcapervinaigrettetwo-potatovindalooveryfulltart-(MORE)wedgeswithlemongrasscrèmefraîche

Swisschardcakeswithsorrelsauce

chickpeasautéwithGreekyogurtgreenbeansaladwithmustardseedsandtarragonandsaffronomelettesstew,chickpea,tamarindand

Taleggio

melting,stuffedportobellowithmushroomandherbpolenta

tamarind,Swisschardandchickpeastewtarragonaiolitarts

caramelizedgarlicsurpriseTatinveryfull-(MORE)

tempura,seasonaltofu

blackpepperBrusselssproutsandgado-gadomeegoreng

tomatoesbroiledvegetablesoupburnteggplantwithtahiniCastellucciolentilswithGorgonzolaandeggplantsauceeggplanttricolore(andmore)(MORE)herb-stuffedJerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloilkısır239lentilswithgrilledeggplantlettucesaladmarinatedbuffalomozzarellaandmixedbeanswithmanyspicesandlovagemulti-vegetablepaellaokrawithlemon,cilantroandoven-driedparty

preservedlemonrelishquinoaandgrilledsourdoughsaladroastedparsnipsandsweetpotatoeswithcapervinaigrettesalsascrambledsmokyduckeggsonsourdoughshakshukasoccasoup,chickpea,breadandsoup,semolina,cilantroandspicedredlentilswithcucumberyogurtstuffedonionssurpriseTatinSwisschard,chickpeaandtamarindstewTamara’sratatouilletwo-potatovindaloo

tortillas,quesadillasTreviso

beet,orangeandblackolivesaladbittersweetsaladJerusalemartichokeswithManouriandbasiloil

Turkishsheep’scheeseanddates

vegetablesseealsoindividualvegetables“mixedgrill”withparsleyoil

paella,multi-poachedbaby,withcapermayonnaiseseasonaltempurasoup,broiled

vegetarianism-(MORE)vichyssoise,asparagusvindaloo,two-potato

wakame,sobanoodleswithwalnuts

greengazpachomarinatedmushroomswithtahiniyogurtand

nuttyendivewithRoquefortwatercress

greenlentils,asparagusandmarinatedpeppersaladwithpecorinosalad,pistachio,orangeblossomand

watermelonandfeta

yogurtbakedeggswithchileandcardamomricewithpoachedeggsandchickpeasautéwithcucumber,spicedredlentilswitheggplantwithbuttermilksauceflatbreadswithbarleyandmushroomshot,andfavabeansouppie,grapeleaf,herbandPuylentilgalettesrelish,beet,preservedlemonandroastedbutternutsquashwithsweetspices,limeandgreenchilesorrelsaucesteamedricewithherbstahini,marinatedmushroomswithwalnutand

zucchini

fried,andpastasaladandhazelnutsalad“mixedgrill”withparsleyoilpoachedbabyvegetableswithcapermayonnaisestuffedTamara’sratatouilleveryfulltart-(MORE)

AcknowledgmentsIwouldliketothankthosewhotookpartinthemakingofthisbook:KarlAllenforhislove,forliftingmeoutofcreativeimpassesandforhiswillingnesstoeatmyexperiments;NoamBarandCorneliaStaeublifortheday-to-daysupportandreal interest in the details; Sarah Lavelle for the patience and brilliant spirit;Felicity Rubinstein for seeing things through in a charming way; JonathanLovekin and David Eldridge for a graceful, collaborative spirit; ClaudineBoulstridge for trying out the recipes, cooking them for the camera andmuchmore;SamiTamimiandHelenGohfor theirfriendshipandconstantstreamofculinary ideas; Lindy Wiffen and Gerry Ure from Ceramica Blue for thegeneroussupplyofdishesfortheshoots.

I would also like to thank Ruth and Michael Ottolenghi, Tirza and DanielFlorentin,AlexMeitlis,ShacharArgov,LingcheeAng,KerenMargalit,YoramEver-Hadani, Alison Quinn, Bob Granleese, Merope Mills, Fiona MacIntyre,CareySmith,EdGriffiths,NormaMacmillan,BasiaMurphy,SaritPacker,EttiMordo,ColleenMurphy,ItamarSrulovichandTamaraMeitlis.

First published in the United States of America in 2011 by Chronicle BooksLLC.FirstpublishedintheUnitedKingdomin2010byEburyPress.

Textcopyright©2010byYotamOttolenghi.Photographscopyright©2010byJonathanLovekin.Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataavailable.

ISBN978-1-4521-0970-1

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SanFrancisco,California94107www.chroniclebooks.com