PERSIAN SCENES

By E. M.

11'<1/1 (Persia) IWII suffued from her situatioll 011 tIlt l'fO~lI'roodll ofEuro~. A"ia. and Africa. Since time im:memoriul Bite has fallen again ami aga'inu'llder the control of o'i/litide invaderll. • tnrtillg with. the AS,yyrio,n4 alld the Medu,f1 long list of her conql4erorll 'TIlochell down to tlltl Sovielit and the Briti,h of today.H o'We~'er. there have always bull period" oj indepelldence ill belwUIl. One of themost i"'portallt of thue. the fllU /figllijieallee of wJ.iel& only fldllre gellerntioll" ofPeraian" will appreciate. WOII the tl< Illy years ",nder Ih.e powerful and able Reza~Mh Pahlevi. whQ Iwd bull ill cOlltrol of tIle Ira"iall GOI'eTlIll'ent 8illee /92/. Veryrleverly. he pll/yed off "V08COlIJ and LOlidoli. the tu'O orcheltemiu of 1rnll's 'illde1J611d.tllee. a9ai'lllll each alMr; ulld. folloll'ill9 the example of his grc"t lleiyhtKJr KemolAlfllllrA·. I,e cJul1Iged hi8 people with exlTlIordinury spUd i"to a IIIod r/l "'1tion.

Thi" promi8ing de~loplllelli came 10 a B"ddell eud whell Greal Rrilaill U/ldthe US. R concluded Iheir alli<llu:e Oil Jllly /2, /94/. This parado.·i 'ul fllliuliUdestroyed Ihe ba"is uf the 8hol&'s foreigl~ 11Olicy. UI~ ,·bly,ut 28, British aud ."·ovietIroops Cl'oslled the 1m'lIia'll border lII,der tIle prete..:t e!{ (m alleged dallgcr from aUerma.1l .'""'fth (,'Ollt1ll11." (.4 t th£/t tilite thue were 560 Oerma,Iut, illc/mlillg wQrnelllind chi!drcli. in th~'l'hole of / ran.) Un Seplember )(j the 'hnll 'Ims fQTCcd to,,"dimte ill favor of hi•• yoltng HOI/, ,,'llO halJ become a pllppet i,. tl,e IlfllldlJ of thei,IlXlderif. ".hile Ihe Slwh had to [wee Ihe rotmtry for "\[a'Uritilts. (U,lmor MS itt"at he i.. "I prelJellt lil'illg 011 tlte islal/d of St. lIelella.) 011 S6'pletll~r /7, Te/~ra,,,,

tIl ClIp itll I uJ Imll. '0"'8 oceupi£fl by Allylo.Soviet troops, (md by CJtrilltlfUJ" theIr,,"iall (,'0' rlll/iellt "iglled a treflty in 'chich Orellt B'riloill and the 'oviet Unt011,,"'re given <It/fhorily 0' r IrOIl's roi/uYI!f1, TOOdlJ, ri~rs, telegmphlJ, alld tel6phunu,"Ihe righl 10 lIlaintllitl Iroops tl'llUCIJeT 'htly wi h "lid ill tmNmited ulIlllber. and thright 10 eellsor "II 11 IVB drclliated ill ].r,,,,." Thlla, for the sa~'e uf her slrategiclocatioll and her wealth ill oil, Iran /11,111 become nit Anglo.Sovi t province.

Yet 1rcm iH 8tm there. The ".tn still 'r;/Ju ill a cloudless sky over l'erlwpolis;II,rol'Os oj belie-1HtT1I still crowd the mo..qllu of Isjahem and QII/I~" flint the tlC"rnal trvthof 1ran'lJ ZOTOOlJfer, tI,e first of the grellt leaCMrs of mankilld, i, still alive--'/ulmely.fllal Ihe jorceA of good lIIld crill/re jiylltilllJ wei, other 011 the carlh allli Ihal Ihe forcesof yood slwil win i'l the ewl.-K.JJ.

PERSEPOLISi~(

?;--~ LAMES licked at the'PM lIa C!I of tall flutedcolumns, smoke curled

r OVCI' the S\llUptuOU!Istone sculptures andblackened the giantstnil'wa,vs. Shouts ofdrunke~ incendjarics,t,hoir m err y m a kin gspurred on by the

taunts of the COlu·tesan Thais, echoedthrough the forest of a hundred pillars inthe audience hall of the last Darius. Looterswere rollicking their la,reweU hours inPersopolis. When Alexander the Greatand his troops withdrew, a blackenedshell Wag all that remained of Persia.'sglorious capital. Charred timbers fromrools and beams, the a, hes of the wooden

fumitme too ponderous to be carriedaway, the dust of adobe brick and crum­bled walls, all Rpread a merciful blanket ofdebris over one of the foremost capitalsof all time and tho glory that ha.d beenPersia. The kingdom of Xerxes andDa.rius was no more. For more thantwenty-two centuries the dust from thesun-haked valley of Mervda.'5ht wa,s tosweep unheeded over this lost city.Even its name wa.s forgotten. Not untilthe twentieth (:entury was this exquisitetreasure of ancient art to be unearthed.

Late in the afternoon we reachedPerscpolis, the HCity of the Persians.'As the long rRY of the setting SUll gildedthe staircase carvings, showing the bas­reliefs in clear outline as sharp R,ndfresh-looking as though chiseled yester-

IHI

X~CENTURY

PERSEPOLISthe Glory that

was Persia

:\ 1"'11' lall ""IIIIIII\.~ 0-\ illc'a:--:f IlIn.~. thill ~11:ldc,\\:--:

"1',,1' t III' I'<l~"" III' t IlI'irLtll"ll IIPi!.,dtl",r~

'1'111' Ii II,!!'" 11I:tIl'1I1:ld,· platform in L'f'r"f'!,()lio~ "n Il'hieh ~t"lId tll(' p:tIIl('Po'; "f Ihrill'; :tlltl \".1'''''-:111111'- f"I'f'U'I'Illllld III,' I'f"'(ln,~tl'll('t(·d 1~:lI:':Ill.."~,la"p, 11\ til(' h"..!,gl"'lllIti IIII' I'llin" "f th" <llldj"I""

:: ..... ,1111

X~CENTURY

h''l(!III''1I1 fr"l1l t Ii(' ~l'I

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fill 1ll""IIIt". 1111 "~;l1l1',J" ofI't'r~ial\ iilt· 1I1,,"al('

PERSIAN SCENES 286

day, we mounted t.he grand flight of stepsleading to the top level of the terraceoverlooking the open plain. On thisenor.mous man-made platform of stone,hewn £rom the foothills close by, hadonce stood many palaces. A few tallcolumns still remained, casting long, thinshadows over the bases of their fa, lienneighbors; the stone debris still held atrace of grandeur in it.~ fluted lines.

As the rubbish of destruction andtime is slowly being 'wept from the vastterrace, it has at last become possible toreconstruct an authentic groulld plan.Only now can Ol1e begin to see thearchitectural outline of those magnificentgroups of palaces, audience balls, harems,and other buildings, lost for so manycenturies. One of the most importantfinds was the two superb sets of double~tairways leading to the audience hall ofX('fXc~, and tho gllte to the pa.lace area.In a ff'W dllV tht' excavators' dis{'oYeriesalmost dm;hled the yolume of suchancient l)ersian RI"t known up to thattime.

We found ho pitality for the night innone other than the harem palace of thefirst Darius. One of the better pre. ervedof the ancient structures, it ha,. beenrebuilt a.8 hea.dqua.rters for the staff ofcxcavators. 'Ye were given an iJUpres-iva glimpse into the pa. t when we

leamed that orne of the blocks of stone

that had to be replaced weighed twentytons.

Gathered around the crackling log firein the entrance ha.ll that night, thescientists told us of some of the detailsconnected with their work. Every ounceof earth removed had to be thoroughlysifted for priceless small relics of aU arts.Otherwise beads, bits of gold and jewelry,pottery, and pieces of bronze might bereburied forever in the giant dump heap.

Workers had been recruited from vil­lages scattered throughout the valleys,and had to be directed by foremen whomthe European !'taft' had trained withspecial care. The workers themselveshad no umlerstlUllling of what aU thisdigging was fur, nor did they realizethat they were helping to recO\'cr theirown national history. The Shah of Iran,however, wa~ aware of the work's im­portance. He once called upon thedirector and after an inspection tour,thanked him for "doing a work of civiliza­tion."

Over 20,000 clay tl\blets inscribed withcuneiform characters, another amazingfind of t ht':"e twentieth-century excava­tors, nuty prove to contain the archivesof that mighty ca.pital which arose asthe fruit of the Persian conquests. afterthe whole We tern civilized world hadbeen subjugated in l'xactly twenty-fiveyears.

ISFAH~~

Faintly at first. then more distinctly,the sound of a hundred tinkling bellsreached us through the darknes:; andmingled with our dreams. The ~un WM

shining through the morning mist whenwe woko to a dream world of echoingcamel bells. All night long, ploddingcaravans had passed our window. Withthe approach of daylight the camelslifted their weary feet more quickly andthe brass bells tied around their necksjangled more hopefully, for the night sjourney was over and a day of rest awaitedthem in the golden city of ] fahan.

As we stepped into the radiance of theearly. moming, we saw the last of the

caravans vanishing down the trcc-Iinedavenue, theil' brown, dusty, hair-coveredhides blending perfectly with the sunlitshimmering ha.ze. The trecs wcr'e goldenwith autumn, and through tho mistemerged tho bluo tiled dome of .an oldmosque, its outline ha.Jf melting into theazure sky overhead.

Slowly we mado our way to tho heartof this fairyland, the magnificent plazaof Maidan-i-Shah. Within the short dis­tance of 560 yards we fOlmd concentratedall the splendors of the Arabian Nights.From the balcony of a four-storied gate­way--once the entrance to a. Shah'spalace--we could look out over the long

286 THE XXt.h CENTURY

plaza and imagine the amber-colored dustwhioh once rose in clouds from underthe hoofs of furiously racing polo ponies.From this balcony the Shah had watchedthis favorite game of the Persians. Nowthe flying dust was peacefully imprisonedby shrubberies and flower beds and alittle lake.

The hist.ory of Isfaha,n can be tracedback some five thousand years, but thecity we saw stretched out before us waawhat remained of its most flourishingperiod of four centuries ago. Shah Abbasthe Great, who chose Isfahan as hisplace of residence, brought the city tothe flower of its existence. Baths,mosques, colleges, bazaars, caravanserais,palaces, gardens, avenues, fountains, andcascades: such were the result of hisattention and encouragement. For twohundred years, until it was cut down bythe invading Afghans at the beginningof the eighteenth century, beautiful Is­fahan blossomed as a center of culture.It never recovered from this blow to itsprosperity, and even now we could seeentire sections of the city abandonedand desolate, inhabited only by rovingdogs. Although the life had gone out ofthat once proud city, it still preservedthe shell of its former beauty, and itspnblio buildings were still open for allto admire.

The smaUer of the two mosques facingthe Maidan plaza gave us a first breath­taking glimpee of Persian tile work.The entire interior of the dome wasinlaid with enameled tile mosaic, set inunglazed brick and forming with itsintricate design the tail of a peacock.Dark blue, bright turquoise, golden yel­low, black, and white tiles were inter­woven into delicate yet sweeping patterns.Imagine a fragile enameled filigree boxmagnified to the size of a cathedral.

Across th., square, in the larger ShahMosque, still more elaborate loveliness

was to be found. In order that the frontf&9ade could face the plaza while theinterior courtyards and domed ohambermust face Mecca, a very inte~

architecture had been evolved. Arch­ways, elaborate tile designs, squinches,and other devices so carried away one'seye that one was turned round andreorientated without being aware of thechange in direction.

Courtyard opened upon courtyard, thestill waters in their fountains reflectingthe alabaster walls and shining blue ofminaret and dome. Arched galleries ledus from one huge chamber to the next.There were no other ornaments than thebeautiful mosaic tiles. No statues, paint­ings, or wall hangings, no altar, ohoir, orloft to distract the eye from the tiledesigns. The Mohammedan mosquesdiffer in this respect from most Christianchurches. The buildings speak for them­selves.

In an inner chamber we came uponan ancient ox plodding up and down thegrooves of a steep incline deep under­neath the mosque. With each journeya contraption to which the ox was fastenedraised and lowered a squelching leatherbag into a weU. This provided a con­stant trickle of fresh running water forthe various courtyard pools.

Still dazzled by the profuse designsand intricate color patterns, it was arelief to turn into the dark, labyrinthinepaths of the ba.zaar, a beehive of com­merce and craftmanahip. Three miles oftunnel stretched back from the square.Oyer worn, dusty brick pavements, newcarpets were laid out for the p&886rs-byto tread to smoothness, and fountainswere spaced at frequent intervals.Children, men, women, and donkeyscrowded the alleys in a continuous pro­0068ion. Life went on with its normalroutine, even in the faded shell of afairy city.

TEHERAN

A dinner party given by an ambassadorin Teheran broke up unusually early oneevening. His guests (among them Mr.

Furoghi, who as Prime Minister was tohead the first three cabinets after theAnglo-Soviet invasion) were anxious to

PERSIAN SCENES ~81

aU /ld an affair t,hat the whole citv wastalking about: the reopening of n.' nightcluo. In Europe, the floor show whichwa.s prc:,onted would have appeared onlyin a ,,('('ond-rate cabal'et,; but in Teheranit WIt" heartily applauded. Shut off 8S

they weI' frolll 11I04 of the amuscmcotsof iarg European cit.il's, foreigners andIranians alike welcomed till'.; event. Thisattempt at model'nization was just onemore indication of thl' tr('nd in thiscapital of a country thrre timcs the izeof France.

'Ve came acro ign;: of expansionwherever we turned in Teheran. Thenewly widened and asphalted Rtl-eetsteemed with automobiles. tnrcks. amibusses. An opera house had almostl>e'en completed. The House of Parlia­ml:'llt. was finish('d. There wa.... a rare­cou with up-to-rlate stands and a

royal pa\-ilion. Xcw quare had boonlaid out. urroundNl by governmentbuilding which bore pseudoantiquefa9ades copied from the palaces at Per­sepolis. The columns were adorned withbulls' and lions' head. These faqadessymboli.zed the fact that, although Iranhad emerged into the modern world. shedid not forget her past.' In the avalancheof new Western impre ions thrust uponthe lranian~, thi reminder of oldentime acted as an anchor.

E\'(~n th(' new tcxtil factory we visitedwa. huilt in thi.. ps<'udoantique stylewith. of course, some modern touches.The window arrangement, for oxample.allowed a lot of sunlight to enter in thewinter and none at aU in the hot sum­mer; and a specially constructed doubleroof helped to keep out the he.at. Withinth('.'\6 modern walls the am'it'nt art of

288 'fHE XXth CENTURY

cloth-making had also been brought upto date. The machines for some of thestages of manufacture were perfected insuch a manuel' that litUe boys couldwork them.

Another sign of the times was evidentin the IranilLn women themsclves. Theywalked the street~ of Teheran as freelyIl8 their European si ters, and theydressed in the same fashion. Banishedwere the long, black, all-conceali.ng robesand the horsehair visors which once hidthe wearer's face. Bani hed, tha.t is tolSay, for the women who wished to enjoytheir new freedom of movement. Therewere stilI quite a few womon who realizedthat the old costume had a charm of itsown, and who did not wi~h to give upan ability which had been developedto a fine art during preceding generations:that of flirting with visor and blackhood.

The drivel' of the car we had hired totake us across Iran gave liS an insightinto yet another adventurous phase oflran'lS awakening. His aim in life, hesaid, was to become a truck driver.Trucks playa vital pa,rt in Ira,n's trans-

portation, because even though the coast­to-coast (Persian Gulf to Caspian Sea)railway was finished, it was not sufficientfor the noods of this vast country.Through mountain passes avalanchedwith winter snows, over deserts burningin summer heat, through streams aJldrivers and sometime' through seas ofmud, over still more treacherous newgra,vel, the intrepid driver must manip­ulate his truck. Until recently robbersplayed a part in the dangel·s. Eventoday, armed guards stand on watch onevery hiJltop overlooking the highwa,y .

What a far cry this Teheran of todaywas from that unimportant little city ofsun-dried brick houses which clusteredalong a meandering river when bfa-hallhad been the leading metropolis. Thencame the Afghan invasion, which broughtruin to han and de. troyed this humblecity as woll. Not until the end of theeighteenth century did it quicken againto life, gaining gra.dually in strength andimportance as the residence of a newdynasty. Under the rule of Reza ShahPahJevi it was going through It vigorousperiod of expansion.

IZAD KHAST

The ouly break in the monotony ofthe barren isolation of Iran's high plateauwas to come across the cl'l1mbling remainsof some vilJage, l.L camvanserai, 01' a bitof green along a stream. Deserted orinhabited - all villages bore the sameoutward appearance, a dilapidated andoften half-ruined high outer wall, mudtowers at the foul' comers, and a smallgateway. Not until one was inside thewall could one discover whether or notthe village was stiU inhabited. Wherethe mud houses had not been repairedfrom year to year, they quickly dis­integrated into their original state of dl'ydust. The sturdily built outer wallsresisted the ravages of time somewhatbetter. Frequently there would be noth­ing but dry camel-thorn bushes andmounds of dirt inside an imposing wall.Perhaps the water upply had dried upand the entire viJiage had imply packed

up and wandered off to a beHer site.Perha ps the sbjfting sands on thesemuch-cxposed regions of the plains hadrendered cultivation difficult or evenimpossible.

Jagged mountains, their rocky :Iopesva,rying in color from green, yellow, buff,and rose to deep orange and henna, wereheaped all along the horizon, sceming tomove with us across the Iranian plateau.All oil had long since been washed away,exposiIlg their gaunt, rocky ribs whichran in topsy-turvy, jigsaw patterns. Likeat sea, one was always aware of the skyand the cloud formations overhead wbenone crossed this desert-like land. Atsunset, the blue of the sky would giveway to lavender in the east and a trans­lucent yellow in the west. A narrowstrip of darker blue would graduallypush the lavender deeper into the yellow,

,--lalllt· <lj" I{,·z;, ~h"h ""Id",'iill tli,' III<ld"1'1i "it," ,d' '1''''1('1':'11

Modern Iran

and

,

her

:!~!1

IHI

~CENIUR~

Founder

Iralli"l1 lalld~(';l"(" I rall'~ lifl'lirH'~. 1i,,1' I'o"d~, "I'(' 1I0W gll"l'd~'d a!!"ill~t anlled rol)l)('r~ I,y IOllkllutIi III IS""; 1'lIil! 1111 ""t'ry liill! "I' ()\'('r1I1<1killg t Ii" highway

:.! ~ III

IHI

X~~ENIURY

Persia Gives

\Va y to I ran

had 1\ ItIl~I "" li!;I' 1\

1Il"di,·\",tI 1"11"11 ~tral1d.

"tI IlIid"t n'alll III a dry1"""1'1'

The lJld l't'l'~ill pI·t·killg1hn '"gh h!:'1' fill).!l'I''' lit

1hl":' nell"

PERSIAN SCENES . ell

until finally aU WM swallowed by the8tarlit vEllvety dl1.rknc8S.

From a distance, Izad Khast, nearIsfahan. had looked like all the otherplateau villages, with its crumbling waHs,mud houses, barren landscape, and inthe background the ever-present rainbow­colored mountains framing the picture.But upon drawing closer we could seethat in reality one part of the village wasperched on a high rock with a deepintervening ravine eparnting it {romthe rest of the countryside. like amedieval town stranded midstream in adry river.

A narrow, shaky log bridge connectedthe rock town with the smsll village ontht> "mainland.' Surrounded by a horde

of beggars and with half the viU. atour heels, we crossed over and exploredita one crooked street, erawling- alongcraoking walls to peek out over tbeledge, down, down, to the submergedrocky vaUey below, A mosque stillclung perilously to the very edge, ·pnehalf of its dome long since coUaPfJed anddangerous-looking cracks crisscr088ing itswalls. Little boys threw pebbles .downthe deep. rock-lined well for our bJmefit;ml\ny second" passed before we coul~

hell I' them striking bottom. Even inmore prosperous days the water 8upplymlllolt have been a problem,

Today there arc no villagers living ·onthis rock island. They prefer their lesspicturesque bill. safer new /lIud huts onthe mainland.

QUM

(lm .\rlllenian ehauffeur did his bestt,o l1i'''Ullr!f' u" frolll ~oing into the cityof QUill. It Wlti; it dil't,.v place. he said.The food was not to be tr'lI$ted. There\Va nothing to 8<"C but the nODle. whichone could look at pt.'rfectly well fromthe highway. The real reason, of cow-se,WllS that his Christian ha.ir stood on endat the thought of entering tillS sacredMohammedan city, second only toMeshed as a hotbed of religious fanaticism.

Until a very few years ago, a foreignerri ked his skin if he entered Qum, ande\'en now he may not enter the mosquepmp.. r·. But one could get close to itscc'ntel' without ha,rm. '-Ve ate a goodIUllch. too. It was served on an openbalcony overlooking the piau, rightoppo;,;ite t,he entl'ance to the forbiddenmosque.

We could wllt('h the mullahs walkingto and from the holy shrine, tht~ir brightlyhennaed beard contrasting with theirwhite and green turbans. The shininggolden dome of Qum's mosque, visiblefor miles before one reaches the town.had for centuries drawn thousands ofpilgrims to the place every year-in facte\'cr since it had been rebuilt after itsdestruction at the command of Tamel'laneduring his relentless marc.h on Baghdad,

We could fool generations of unspokenrescntment at the presence of our infidelsci \-'cs so close to tills holy of holies. butnevertheless we took advantage of onemore sign of tht'se modern times.

A;.: a fir;.:t step towards gradually lessen­ing the fanatical seclusion of this proudsanctual'y, a mw,eum had been openedin its very hea,rt. Undor the direction­and prowction-of a policeman, we hadto walk stealthily all the way around theedifice to a back entrance, where a manin European clotbes greeted us; introduc­ing himself as the director. The smell ofda,mp pia tel' still hung over the rooms,and prized possessions were lying aboutin dignified disorder. Enough had beenarrlUlgcd on freshly painted shelves, how­ever, to give us all idea of the magnificentsplendor in the mosque's treasure coffers:silken rugs. priceless tiles Hud mosaics,brass and silver filigree oil lamps, pot­tery. embroiderit's, and jewels.

Through a grilled window in the thickmuseum wall one could look out upon aninner courtyard of the mosque. Veiledwomen clustered close to the grill,silently pushing a.nd shoving to getfirst-row peeks. Others, less interestedin the ways of the world, were kneelingon the pavement, murmuring their

292 THE XXt.h CENTURY

praye.re with bowed heads. A ohanting ofvoicee could be heard through the m888ivewalle from the interior of the mosque.In two small rooms, still closer to theheart of the forbidden interior, lay the88J'Copbagi of two Persian rulers. Thewallil of these rooms were covered withfaded frescoes. These rooms had notbeen remade into a museum: they werethe originaJ burial rooms thelll.8e1ves, opennow to public eyes for the first time.Here one was separated only by a grillediron door from the great entrance hall ofthe mosque. People were walking &01'088

the carpeted floors to the shrine. Severalsoldiers stood grouped in the corridorbeyond the grill. They had been calledto protect us in case a riot should start.However, no one molested us; only thecurious eyes of the black-robed women

at the window followed our ev('ry move­ment.

When the guest book was brought tobe signed, we saw that we were the firstWesterners to have visited the museum.Our names written in their Latin scriptlooked very insignificant next to the sweep­ing Persian lettering of previous visitors.

Gradually the people of Qum mustaccustom themselves to the sight offoreigners and dusty automobiles heavywith luggage nosing their way down thenarrow streets. This museum was aclever move on the part of the Shah inhis relentless effort to modernize hispeople. Perhaps when next we returnwe can enter the mosque itself just 88

now one enters unnoticed the mosques ofIsfa.han and Teheran.

artificial 9fands

The first artificial hand known to us was that of the Germanknight Glitz von Berlichingen, which was made in 1509. It is amasterpiece of wrought workand was COlUltructed by a brilliant mechanio.In every detail it is a copy of the human right hand, the joints beingreplaced by hinges with cogged edges. Iron catches hook into thC86cogs. thereby holding the iron fingers in whatever position they havebeen placed by the left hand. A button on the side of the artificialhand releases this system of catches.

Since then, artificial limbs have been produced after every war.After the Napoleonic Wars, the Berlin dentist Peter Ballif was thefirst to construct an artificial hand which W88 joined to the shoulderby bandages and could be flexed by movements of the shoulder. Greatstrides were made during and after the first World War, but it is onlyin quite recent times that the surgeon has contributed his skill to thatof the orthopedist and the engineer. It is now possible to make useof the muscles in tho remaining stump to help move the artificial hand.The famous Berlin surgeon Professor Ss.uerbruch has recently showncases of people who were able by means of their artificial hand to pickup a mateh from the floor with a pair of tweezers.