Pocket Guide to the Cities of Southern France

8/3/2019 Pocket Guide to the Cities of Southern France

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> - ; ; : V(AR DEPARTMENT W ASH INGTON , D . C .Q: e

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POCKET GUIDE TOT H E C I T f E S O F S O U T H E R N

F R A N C E


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For use of Military Personn 1 only. Not to berepublished in whole or in part, without tMconsent of the lVal' Depa1'flnent

Prepared byARMY u",>FOR;lL\'!'IOY Bfu\NCH,

Th'TOR:i)IXI'lON L"O 'l!:DU(,NrTOY mvr ION A. S. F.,UN1l'ED S'T_\TE Anl\ty

ATTENTIONAbDuL the only thing in (his booklet that can be guaranteed i.the terrain. The .est of it i up t the fortunes or mi fortunes ofwar. Iuny of the town and citie .. de cribed here ha e been

bombed and shelled by us as we approached, and shelled by theenemy as he retreated. And m U I l Y of them will still show themarks of the destruction vi itec1upon them when these lands werebeing conquer d awl occupi d by the Germans.Th lHll't hi torical note an icity plans ccncerninz most of lh. I:'>towns ar correct as 01: the outbreak of the war. But the clinngesof war were still happening i . 1 1 many places when thi pocke guidewent to press.You may find that art treasnr s de. cribed an d located in the, epages have been looted or destroyed. and it mlly be year!' before

th se thut can be restored are sisrht to see again. On the oth r1 1 ! l 1 l C 1 . sum of them by a stl"Okf' of sood fortune, may be left intactlind you will be aula to enjoy them,

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And another thing.: if some of these towns should be declaredoff limits, you'll bypass them, of course. Perhaps later, they maybe open to you.Food and drink are discussed here, so that, as times graduallyreturn to normal, you may be guided in the tastes and customs ofthe country, But be sure that you are not encouraging a blackmarket or bringing hardshi p to the na tive ei ,> 1 liau population ITyou lake advantage of what the town or region has to offer. Youwill receive direction from the proper authority in this matter.Anyhow, so far us your military duties permit, ;;eeas much asyon can. You've got great chance to do now, major expansespaid, what would cost you a lot of your own money after the war,Take advantage of it.

IV

CONTENTSr- BorlDF..\UX

CANNES.

1 MONTE C A IU J O .11 N,CE ..

51

55

MARSEILLE

19 TOULON25 Tom.ousEl31 VICHY .39

596981

LllI[QGESLrox ..

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BOR.DEAUXThe first time you ever hem-d of BORDEAUX VIas probably when youWE're a kid and your dad was tellil1g about when he went to war.In World Will' IBordeaux was one of eight American base portsin Fruuee. The docks fit BAssENs neal' Bordeaux were constructedby the U. S . Army Engineers, Bassens was ulso the port whereLafayette embarked for Americu in 1771.The city uf Bordeaux is not directly 011 the sell us you mightthink when yon look at a map. It is nrore like New Orleans on thel\Iis, .:is",ippi, because the port is (iOmiles southeast from the At-lantic IIp tbe GmoNoE ESTU.IRY and Gd..RONNE RIVER By land,however, Bordenux is only 30 miles east from the Bay of Biscayacross the f la t M ID oe l ):E NT Ns ul. A. . Its population before the war,263..000. mad" it the fourt 11 brgest city ill Franoe.Evel'ybody knows what Bordeaux is famous for-wine.'I'beentrance to the Gironde EslnH.I'Yis about 450 miles fromPlymouth, the nearest big English port, At LE YERDON on POtNI'hl

DE GRAVE, the southern portal of the-estuary, is a monument com-VI


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memorutin rr the departure of Lafayette cl1ll'illg the Revolutionary\\Tar and the Iandin 0 of American soldiers in 1917.The charm 1 is narrow and difficult for large ships, Good an-chorage is plentiful. From L "'ITel"floll where the e. tuary is ix

miles wide, it taper inland providing a port and . pacious anchor-ag a PA llLA 80 miles up tream. A chain of islands extendsfor 15 mile" up rreum to the innermost point of the estuar wherethe aronne and the DOBDOONE rivers join,Bordeaux hi 1:2 miles from that ri ver junction and it is onlythree miles TU)'t her to Bussen and its two miles of wharvo: .The city of Bordeaux is built in a curve alonz the west bank

of the G U I ' O l m e . Quays and warehouses line the 5 1 1 1 ) 1 ' e for fourmiles. The-river here is about one-third of a mile wide. Acrossthe river is th e suburb of LA BASTillE which can be reach d bybridge 01' ferry'. The harbor can h:111(l1ethe Iargest seagoing ships, but smallercraft also carry the COIJlIll(,l'(' o r BOl'deal.1x lip tr 11m on the Gll-ronne and over the Lateral and Iidi Canals to th Mediterranean.Excursion reamers also ply the ri vel' iUUII1me'.Bordeaux has been a flourishing town since Roman times,

Then as BurcligaZa it" as a provincial capital. It endured the yoke2

Hurl devastation of Vuuduls. Visigoths, Franks, and Normans andits pro parity increased during I he English occupa tiou o r Guyeu1l0from 1154 to 1453. Liberties a corded to the town by the Enalishcrown increased its eomrnerce uud in 1451 when the French king.Charles ' " ' " I T raptured Bordeaux and attempted to restrictcivicliberties, the Bordela.i welcomed the En 0" 1sh with open arm 'whenthey retru-ned ill the battle of astillou ill 1 53.Later Lo lis XI encouraged the citizens by orgauiaing the par-liament of Guyenne and the Ul'l'1\,ER8ITY, Some of the 1l101111.nh~who came later were less far sighted. a result the Bordclaisrebelled ill 154 against the 'gabelle," a f rm of alt tax. Duringthe 18th century, commerce expanded greatly. Goverllors n.p-pointed by he crown spent H Jot of money beautifying the city.In 1 70 the 1 rench sroverument was transf rred to Bordeauxfrom Tout's when the Germans were approa , h i n z , Bordeauxagain became the seat of French government when Paris wasthreatened by the Gerr uns in Auzust 1914.Around the TownThe heart of modern Bordeaux is tile rLACI~DE LA COMl~D:r:m.

Aero s from the Place is the GIU D T:Iill.1Tllli buill in 1753- 0 and3


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restored in 1~ 'I, Itis one IIf till' lim' t (healers in Fr:lIll'c with aportico of 12 Corinth ian columns, Whell 1 1 1 1 " governmcn t retreatedto Bordeaux ill 1 70 it wus ill this theater that the National As-scmb Iy call vencd.The PONT DE BORDF.~\ x, also called the Pont 1e Pierre. for many

centuri~s was looked LIpO~l a~ the finest hridg ill th ~vorld. itwas bui ~tof "tone aud b l'lc k. 1 11 1 11)-21. It is ,1,10ya I'd, loug, 16yards WH]e aur] L'l'lISS( ,S the J'Ivel' ill 17 h ngl' ;ll'ches.j You ca 11 alsocross the Garoune 01'1"1' the l'Hihoad bridge 01' 011 ilw PONT TRe\);"BORDEo:R far downsl L'l'HHl frotu t he Pont de Bordeaux.The limit of old Bordeaux arc murkoi] b the Corms VI troa-

'RuGa. The old dly lid 1I0t extend in the other direction he,'011 1the PLACE DES QUINCONCJ'; , which was built on the site ouce ;){,l"U-pied by a castle. The square i t - ; 426 yards long HlJU;~6nyards wide.The south W( 'S! COr Il (' I' 1 Ir lilt' Place d{'~ Qu i!ll'OIl{'~'S upeus inr thePlace de In COllll'die.The two main shopping tl'{~Chi of Bordeaux are the OURS DU

CIT.APEAr-Rorml and (he RITE STE. CATIIERINE.One of the liveliest scenes in Bordeaux is the ~\.LLlh~s m, TOURNY

which you can reach easily i'1'OIn the PLACE DESQUlNCONCF:iO. DIeCOUl'S de Tourny leacliIJg out of the .L\llees runs jill 1I the PLACE4

(fA mETI.\. Here. duriuz the Terror, there used to be a suillotine rwhich lopped off the head. of more than 300 victims, IIf you are o r literary bent, you won't wuut to miss the chieftreasure of the Iihrary 011the RU E ! :L mLY n ex t door to the CHunCHOF :rOTRE DA~I.E. The library's hig attraction is a copy of theEs avs of Montnigne. The author him elf wrote ill the f otnoteand mnrsrinal comments. The Iibraiy also contains 200,000 bookand 3.940 unpublished manuscripts,The finest promenudein Borrlea 11K is the J.UIDIK PUBLIC laid outby the Marquis de 'I'ouruey. The Jardin includes an Enzlish parkand a well sto ked botanical garden with large hothouses. TheMtr BUM OF A'l'Un.AL HI TOllY here u d to be the old Hotel deL.i leferme.From the J::IrcUn Public you call leave by the outlrwest gatenear the museum anc1follow th e R m .; DU COLIS8E to th e PALAIS GAL-

LIEN. The Palais is the ruin of a 3rd century Roman amphithea-ter. The tructure wa badly damaged during tile Revolution.The Palais Gallien got it name from the Emperor Gullienus whodied in 268. He was supposed to have founded the amphitheater.Tuel'e are severnl churehes all(tcalhellrah; ill Bordeaux thatought [0 be worth your while. R T . '8(.'}1IN, neal' the Pubis Galliel).s


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i a church buill nil the sire of :111 earlier cathedral. Parts of rh ebuildinz date from the 13th to 1 'th .(' ituries. eros from thepa iou square occupied by St. ' 'mill is the llOTEL DEVII.J,E. Iwas built between 1771- 1, but wu destroyed by fire. Itwu - re-tared in 1 66. The building 'cl'n'cl as the mperial Palace in1 0 31111 the roya 1 residence in 1 16.One of the best Gothic churches ill onthern France i the C..i.TllE-

ORAL OF T, ANDRE, You CHn reach it from the Pont de Bordeauxby the COUl'S YiC!Ol '-HLlgO. Auorher Goth ic edifice is the churchof T. :'Ib:CHEL. It is near tile rivet' a little abov the P011t deBordeaux. The bell tower 0 1 ' 1 : ' 1 . Michel is 360 feet high, th hiah-e tin. outhern Franc. The spire W


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m trying to decide which wines were and which were not entitledto the use of that name. On Febl'uiny 18. 1911, :I national lnwwas passed which said that the only wines which can be sold us"Bordeaux wine" are those made from grapes gathered within theGmoNDE D.F.:PL\BT':I1ENT.The Gironde Department is an area named after rlie GiroudeEstuary, E(>fol'e the '\Y!ll' the Department was tlU'ning out rucrethan 84.000,000 gallons of Wale a year-s-all of it :'Bol'cleallx wine,"The best Bordeaux wines are made from the vineyards of It pur-ticulurly good estate, and they are always sold under the nauie oftheir native estate. If von want to order the finest of all Bordes uxwines, here are a few of them: Chfitea 1 1Lafite, Ch l i teml )'h rga UK "Chateau Latour, Chateau Haut Brion. Chateau Ausoue, andChateau Yqllem.The better class of Bordeaux wine is hidden away ill a cfl~k rill'three or more years before it is bottled, After that: the longer itis in the bottle, the bettel' everyone ,...'ll tell rOll it is,Borden ux wines are bottled either "at the cha tean' in Ie cellarsof the estate where the wine is made) 01' "at Bordeaux" by the Bor-

lleuux merchants, 01' ill any part of the world by the dealers whoimport their wines ill casks and boule it themselves,8


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CANNES

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CANNESIf you should happen to elm" some cInty in or manage to vi it,A -NE , you U be le i king aru,tUl 1 ill 011 of the olde t and mo. taristocratic resorts along: the entire Riviera, For 110 yearCarine has been a fa iiouuble vacation 'pot -for generations (,f, in-ope's wealthiest people. The city is 5 mile east of Marseilleand 17 mil soutb.w t of Nice.The orisrins of unu is go back to the Greek. and the Romansbu even as hit as 1'163no one would have been able to predictthat it would one day be the fnshionable gatherlllJ"-place it hash~c(Jfile. "In that year the British novelist Tobius mullett 'visited. CunneS'and des .ribed it as "a Iittle fishinz town ag1' ably itual don the beach of the ea. The real discoverer' of Cannes wus

r Lord Brouzham Lord Chane llor of England in 1 34 an 1it cameabout by chance, He was on his WHy to Nice, then belonging 10ar inia, ar d he was refused 11rrnissi n to Cl"()SS the fro tierbecause of a small epidemic of chol Ill. He d cided t Iwait atCannes, fell f l' its natural beauty, and built himself a ilia there.TIll brought the village into noti e, The people of Cnnues know

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what Lord Brourrlram did i'01' their city. They erected a ta ueto hi" memory ill the .(> the bare cell in which the Man in the ron Mask" was 00-pri oned by Louis XIV Tor 11 y~ars, Nobody has ever been ableto establi h who the masked prisoner was, but there are plentyof theories. Some of them are that he wa the twin brother of

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LOllis XI . the illegitimate son of Louis XIV, or th > son of live rCromwell. Inany case, his mask was not iron at all, but silk orvelvet.You may finrl the smaller iland .T. HONOIlAT, even more Inter-esting. The convent 011 this island was founded in no by , aintHonoratus and legend 11a. it that one of his arly m nks wa aintPatrick, the same 'aint Patrick who later drove the snakes out ofIreland.On the south C O n t of t. Ballarat i an old co. tl e built. in1088,which was once fortified to protect the people who lived there frompirates.

Antibes Not FarAwayAbout half way between Canne and ~ ic is th maller resortcity of A:r.."I'IBE. The prewar population of Canne year-roundresid nts was about 50 000. while that of Antibes was about 14,000.

The town wa formerly fortified but all the ramparts except ldFORT CA llR .B have been demolished,Antibes lies betw en two Iittle bay 01'1 the Gulf of 1 ice and onthe west side of CAPD ANTIBE a two-mile-long peninsula. Its r -sort areas were always considered less expensive than those of14

Cannes u.ud Nice. The name Antib s comes from the word Anti-polis, uieaninz "facinu the city" ( f Ti , e). The community wasfound (l about 340 B. C.Autibe harbor is protected by a IIlO]e620 yard: long. The capeis crossed by the ...ISE.t.--roE ALBERT-PRE'IOER. 01 1 the BOULEVARDNOTRE-DA1l'IE is Lx GARO PE. a 246-foot hill with an ancient chapeland liuhthou e which is famou Tor its view.:rot far from CUllIH:'S a mil inland in the opposite directionfrom Antibes, is FREJUS. This town of about 9,000 was the navaltronghold of the Caesars in Ronuui days. Although rubs .an.dBarbary corsairs raided the old Roman at' enal and reduced It; toruin ther are irill '0111e evidence of the ancient camp. A.rtLong1them are coa tal ra IIrpurt ,;\11 amphitheater. and an aqueduct.Two-mile. ea t of Fl'ejus i T . RAPHAEL, the point of Napoleon sarri val on return f1'OI11 EO",Vpt in 1799 and his point of depart mefor Elba in 1814.Orange grmr grow near ~an~H~~in ight of :-;llO'~'-C~lPP('ipeaks,.aud there are malty acres of oliv t ree. The prm ripnl product

of the urea, hO\I'e\,~I" is flowers for the production of pedtUl1e inthe 30-0 Id perfume factories of GRAS E 12 miles from Canne .lS


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Where Perfume Is Big Business}lost of the 20,000 population of Grasse 11Sed to be working ill

the perf LUll distilleries 01' caring fol' the 62.000 acres of violetsjonquil) roses, mignon t te, jasmine. tuberoses, and carnation.The old section of Grn se i a tangle of winding teep tre t pl'ilC-tically uuclnmsed from the 1 th century, but modern Gra e hasits cusi no w ih gaiui fig rooms, j hen tel', and restaurant. The mainc.:1.'1l1. ' 1 ' i~th e Pn01il~N"\DE nu COUIl ..Grasse is the birthplace of Jean Honol'e Frngouaul, 18lh cen-tury painter. and il l the B O O LE \'. \R D F R A G QN .l RDi s a mu e um con-ta ininsr soiu of ills original work.Hi. torian: 1011't ugre on the origins of Gras e. Some say it

wa~ found -d hy Cl';lSSLl in the 1 t -entury B. C .. and others claimit 'V;I:-; settled by a colony of nrdinian Jews ill the 6th .entury.In uny case, it rose to ornmer ial importance enrlv, was a 'kedby the arucens in the 9th century and became ;1]1 independent('Ollll1lUI10 ill the 12th century.~\..lthough Grasse rs some' mile' inlnn.l. yon get a good "i0\T ofthe :0:1';1 from the Promenade du Cours, The hospital in the

BIlOI,F:V.\RD Vreron Hrmo has three ea rIy works hy Rubens. Thebusiest. street ill town is the B LE\,.\RD'o JE -D~-B.\LL()N which16

hcgill ' at the casino


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CARCASSONNErake it from those who know about such things, you call ramblethe lenzth and brea th of Europe and you'll never find anotherexample of D1 dieval fortification that can touch the 15th-century-old CITE DE C,1J~CASSONXE. Iti alma t perfectly preserved as alikeness of the fortified Iife of the Middle Ages.There's a town there, too, of about 35,000 population. but itsthe massiv 011 fort res on til hill that take' vour yeo ometime

in the 5th centurv the Visigoth took ovel' ti e olef Roman s ttle-ment called 0arcaso aad fortified its stra tegic height which com-mand


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milking goats 01' washinz clothe b f re the doors of hovels et inthe rock battlements of old medieval towers. The treet of the011 town are narrow and de olute a contrast to th f th' VlLLE.BA . E 01' Lower Town which orew np later an 1 ha handsome.modern buildings in its 13th century lanes and streets.The Au ~p River fim'rS between the e two very different town.lila ill.ake up Carcas anne. The VilJe Basse stretche alone thelo',"-l:ymg l~ft bank. On the opposite bank rises the solitary hill

bi-i tling w~t~l,the towers of the CiM. As restored by Viollet-le-Due the Cite IS regarded as one of the architectural marvels ofFrance and it is a sure stopping place for archaeologists, artistand touri ts. 'T!1er HIbegiJllrill~ of the Lower Town was a popular uprising

azainst French rule 11 1 1240. All the town around the Cite wasburned to the ground and buildinz was forbid len 0]] that id ofhe rive r again , ev 11 year later ettlers were allowed to makea community 011 the low ground on the left bank., J: o,", , 'aclays. C;~cassomle still has a reputation :for an old clothindu tr)' which IS, almost extinct. The city is an important winemarket and the vineyard almost solid for 60 miles to the citv ofDeziel's, are the chief source of prosperity. The CANAL 0 'llOI20

pa es Carcassonne and give transportation to its wine produce,Lanning Ru n leather dre Ring, manufactured farm tools cork bar-rels, an preserv d frurts. The anal du Midi tonne t at Ton-louse w itl; til' Lateral Canal of the GnO! ue O'hrinrr wat L'W. yaccess from Bordeaux to the Me Iiterranean.That famou French delicacy, 7uit6de fois g ~ ' { U J . ta tily preparedgoo '6 liver, is plentiful in the 6 part u are game pie of otherwater-fowl. Duck", awl sreese like this section of the Aude,The main business street of Cureas onne is the RU E DE GEORGESCLEl'!:tENCEAU which runs from the railroad tut ion pas thechurch of NOTRE-D.\]llll-DES-CAJlM"E to the PLACE 'ARXOT, thehead of the city's life.N ar the intersection of the Rue de Clemenceau with the Ruedu Qnatre-Septembl'e is th 1~th century church of ST. VI"'CENTwith an oetazonal lower where you can climb 24 st p and havea first class view at tbe Cit' and the ude Valley. here i amuseum all Ih BOULEv ..umD Mrr f f i . E . II. long snit i painting.You should plan to ' 1 " ; it the Cite 'eady in the morning when thestained glass windows catch the best light. Itis possible that thehotel OlWC operated there is again available rot' meals 01' an over-night stop. There hns never been uny i-esu-icrion on cameras at21


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the Cite so vou'll hnve a chance to shoot examples of the develop-ment of military fortification from the 5th to the 14th century.The double belt of walls is defended by 52 round and sqnaretowers. The large t opening in almo t a mile of outer wall is theN"AItBON),"E A'n. Once lines of knights in armor and proce sionslIf royalty marched from the Ville Basse acrr s the eizht arches ofthe 13th century bridge and through the liiarbonne Gat ThePQR'rE n'AuDE opening westward on the side of the river, j avail-:11)1eif you're wulkiuc only. The Narbonne Gllte admits vehicles.The inner wall 1200 yards 10nO' and the outer wall, 1,640yards,are separated by a zone u ually ubont yards wiele. This space be-tween "was called lires and wa. used by the knizhts for outdoorports and jousting matches.In the south part of the Cite is the former cathedral of, T-NAZAIBE, reb lilt from all older structure from th 11th to 14thcenturies, then restored again nft er 1?40. Before YOll leave youshould also make an inspection inside the castle within the walls.It was built about 1125. 'fake it glJOrllook a it and consider thefact that it was used as a barracks by the French Army until 1920.

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LIMOGES

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LTh'10GES received its name from n Gallic tribe W110 used to live onemile down the Viennc. Whell the Rouians came, they built a townastride the river where the PONT T-1V1.utTIAL stands today.When German barbm-iuu hit Limoges they found the inhabi-tants all walled 1]P ill II fort which stood where the cathedralT. EnE 'NE: is now located.uint Iurtinl brought Christianity to this place. His name is

venerated by the devout citizens. The most prominent church inLimoges, 8'r-MiclIEL-DE-Li NS. is 'on ecrated to r u m . HuH thchildren of Limoges are LHUH'd' lurtinl" after him. The saint'sbead an 1 other r ,Ii, ' II1'1' k pt in the church. n abbey sto d onthe same spot in tl\C 10th century, but the present church dalefrom the lith century.There are many other Cathol ic churches in Limczes: a110f themwith their distinctive Romauesque, Gothic und Rsnaissance arch-itectural eahnes. Any "padre' call point these out to you. Ifyou don t- have this information already, Gotllic design meanshigh, pointed arches. 't!!eI roofs, flyillO' bitt!' sses, windows large in

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proportion to the wull space aml lavish use of lacelike, ornamentalc!ll'ying, Ron14M,~q!le is oldel' (before Ole 12th century), In thisstyle, arches us round instead of pointed, Romanesqne churchesare more compactly and IDOl'e plainly built than Gothic. Renais-sance is a later fashion than either Gothic 01' Romanesque, but ismore like the latter) since it was characteristic of the Renaissanceto get back to the simple, comparatively unadorned style of theGl'eeks and Romans, Better visit the ..esnit fathers at the LYcElEGAy-LuSSAc, neal' the PLACE JOURDAN i n Limoges; perhaps they canpoint out to you these designs in one of the many churches roundabout. All over France, you'll see churches, You might as wellstart to Ienrn their fine points while you are in Limoges,\vIli]e you are sitting in a side-walk cafe in the PrACE .JoURDAN,or its neighbor, the PL.\CE DE LA RKPUBUQUE, sipping a light ,. ..ine,you may get the idea that you would like to l'ellutill there forever.This would not be all unnatural thought, for Limoges is likeable,Only 90000 people 'cqulllly distant from Paris, Bordeaux andMnrseilles ; in a climate cool and fresh; among people with a goodFrench accent and, a quaint patoi all their own-here is a niceout-of-the-way place with a fair-sounding name ..

But :I f you'll get off your chair and meander through the narrow.winding streets, your eye, if it 15 already curious, and your French,if it is courageous) will :UfOI'd you more adventures,Home o f Tha.t P o rc e'la .inPorcelain pottery, fol ' example, is the whole show in this town-s-and always has been, There i~ a factory out beyond G A R E DES

BiNKDIGTL'rS; before the war it was guarded like a UHUUtiOnsplant so valuable are the trade secrets in the arts of porcelainmanufacture and its associated art, enameling, If you don't haveany luck there. you cnn try a hundred other places,Limoges has produced its own special enamel, Artistic designsin white paint OJ} a blue-painted background (sounds simpleenongh, but it's tricky) is the general meaning of "Limogesenamel."The most famous enamelers (bnailleu1's) of Limoges lived aslong ago L tS the 15th century, Leonard Limousin and l l i s descend-nnts were famous craftsmen j another family, the Penicauds, alsowon renown for themselves anti for Limoges lit this work. Youcan see samples in the MUSEE ~'u>lUEN Dtrsnoucaa.

600,4.38---1-'1--526

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Whil you have the name Limon in in mind. you mirrht like toknew what it means in relation to ur word for a swank car. Iteems there is a connection, but it's wayward, like all words inany lang-uno-e.In olden times, the region around Limoges was known asLitlwusin. ~he wor~ meant, originally a long shepherd clank.Eventually, its meaning was extended to describe a closed auto-mobile .Another fine art which Frenchmen call Ol'!ev1'e9'ie-toolinO' withgold, so to speak, is an old pecialty in Limoges. There s :: storyabout the .fan~ily'Masb~ITeaux expert je\~-elel's:they had coreportat the Tuzle'l"le8 InPans at the request of Henry IV. Those werehe day when royalty scouted the land: cape for artists and craft -men. Rura~ towns like Limoge \~r usually the 10."e1'. Thebest porcelain vases, he be t enamel work and the best zold en-gravin!!S-aTI were whisked away to Paris. bA final word, perhaps di appointing, is that Limozes is not awine .countl':y. Th~ ground underneath is granite, and this typeof soil provides china-clay I01' porcelain, rather than good soilfur gntpes.

.But. the people of Limoges are prosperous enough to importwme from nearby regions like Bordeaux, if neces Rry. As amatter of fact, there used to be 35 distilleries of fine liqueurs illLimoges.And before you leave be mre to vi. it the RUE DE LA B UCHEJU]!;where. eve~'Ybutcher is. n~ne 1 Mali] vaud, Thls is the trange talley 1Il Limog s. Iti [ammed with butcher shops which havebeen there ince the 10th century.

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LYONLYON, with II, population of O\1e-1' a half million, is the second cityof industrial importance in France.. It was founded by the Gaulsas Lugduriltnl and was an important place even when Caesar tookit over and wrote his travel book. In fact, a couple of the nativesof the town were the Emperors Mareus Aurelius and Claudius.Nero. Trajan, and Hadrian liked the city as a vacation spot.Lyon was sacked by the Huns and tl1e Visigorhs ,,10 destroyedmuch of the Roman construction, In the 8th century it was cap-tared by the Saracens. but Chaelemagne took over later and thecity spent a fairly quiet 1.1iddle Ages. The introduction of thesilk industry from Italy, 111Hl('1' Fl'i1.11Cis I, increased the wealthand industrial prestige. The Jncquard loom, which increased pro-duction, was invented by a native Joseph Jacqmnd. The greatLOllis Pasteur entered the picture during the last century whenthe silkworms upon which the entire industry depends began to beravaged by some strange disease. Pasteur was called in and, al-though he had never seen n silkworm before, within three monthshad found a way to prevent the disease.

so 31

the anne and from which you may be able to see Mon Blanc,


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Industrial and Art Exhibits Are FamousThe MUSEE HTSTORIQUE DES TIs s is really something. Everytype and kind of fabric or woven material from the fir t knowntuff is displayed there, together with the method, whether b~'

33

A~ide from being the leading ilk manufacture center in thewOl:1d, ~yon is the headquarters for one of the la rzest bankingC.hUUlS illFrance: .Lyon manufactures hats, boots jewelry andliqueur. In addition, there are dveworks foundries rrlass-works.. .. '0 (; ,pott~ne, alllel'le~, brewerie , chemical plants, and printing es-tablishments. Lymg at the junction of he RHONE and the SAONJ!lriver, both !lavirrable:(lnd on the highways and railways whichconnect Paris, Marseille and Bordeaux wit.h witaerland andItaly. it handles 01' manufactures m allY of the products goingbetween these points.The central section, lYlllg on the point of land between therivel' , contains the bu ine ~ (1itrict, a ll the east bank of the

Rhone i. the modern indu trial uburb 0 LA GUrLLOTIERE, Tbeancient mediaeval town rise from the west bank OT the !lQne outhe, eep lopes of FOunvUmE hill.The older section is made up of narrow, crooked streets which~cl up the hill between crowded buildings. au this slopeIS the CATHEDRAL,OF. T. JORN a Gothic edifice of the 12th century.Farther up the hill is the CHUROH OF oTREDAME. This i a. mod-ern building, but it i built on the site o f the FOI"Ulm Vetu$ whichwa erected by Trajan, Beside it is a. tower which is 680 feet above32

100 miles awav, if the weather i rizht, On the other side ofFourviere i the church of T. lRENAlWS. It, to l is a mo larntru ture, but it is built over Itcrypt reputed to ha e been the sceneof th ma acre of 19,000 Christian in202 A. D. by order of Sep-timiu 'everns.Low l'down on the opposite bank of the Sao])e is the 6th centurychurch of the ABBEY OF .A.INAY. Beneath the sacris y , and extend-ing beneath the bed of the river. are the 1ightless and airles dun-geoll in which early martyrs l1 ed to wait their fate.The HflTEL DE VILLE is considered one of the finest buildings ofit kind in all France. It face the PLACE DE TERREAUX. It twocentral courts are divided by an arcade. The main ar,;ude feu-hues an quasti-ian statue of Henry IV. In the vestibule youwill find a pair of sculptur d gronp by the Costou brothers. Onegroup repr ents the Rh(m and th oth r represents the aone.

hand 01' by machine, of weaving u eel in fabrication, The exhibit Ernest Meissonier (1815-D1) and Fiene Puvis de Cha.vannes


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starts with ancient Egyptian cloth and comes on down throughthe cen uris to show the earliest ilk and the later method ofweaving figures into the fabric. Tapestries are displayed, too.So are various kinds of carpet. In short, nearly anything thatcan bp woven is shown to you there, The 1 1 1 ' 1 1 . w J e occupie the sec-ond floor of the PALAI8 DU COllrMERCE ET DE BOURSE in the RUE DELA R6:l'UBLIQUE. The Pulni i an impo ing building 011 whosesteps President Carnot 'YU as. assinnted in 1894,during the LYOllexhibition.Opposite the Hotel de Ville i the PALAI DES .AllTS. a lnt'ge build-ing which was built in the 11th and 18th centuries as the Bene-dictine convent of St. Pierre. This museum contains or containeda really line collection of paintings and statues. and interestino

ancient relics. In th.is Iast 'ategory you will find antique coins 1111dmedals, and the Olaudian. Tables which record the ounces ion madehy the Emperor Claudius in 48 . . A . . D., admitting Roman citizeusof Gaul to senatorial rights. Also in the antique collection aremetal and glass work, enamel Ipottery, and goldsmiths' work.Among the paintings you will find examples 01 Lhe work of twolocal artists who established large reputations :for themselves,34

(1824-9 ). There are also pictures by such masters as Prnd'honDelacroix, Courbet, Millet Greuze Palma Vecchio, Ruben, Peru-gino, Tintoretto Andrea del Sart ,and)nH ny nth 1'5.The spacious PLACE BELLEooun is a public square 310 metres longancl200 metres wide. It is l1PpO se d to b one of the finest squarein Europe. Planted with che tnut trees part of it i laid out ingardens urroundmg fountains. An equestrian statue of LouisXIV occupies the can tel'. The statue .is the masterpiece ofFt'etlGl'ic Lemar Ia native of Lyons, and was erected in 1825. Thebuildings at the west and east ends were bnilt, by order of apoleonto replace those destroyed during the ReYulution.The town lihrnry is one of the largest and most interesting inPrance. It conf ains ncarlv half u million volumes which cover 14kilom tre of shelves. Which i a lut of book. However, therear many ancient manu cript from the Mic111e Ages . The e man-uscript are colorfully illuminat d. The library also containsscm of the most precious editions of the works of the Lyoneseprinters whose names have been famous in the history of typog-raphy since 1743.

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The P.\ .RODE LA TETE D'OR is situated on th e R ho ne river. Theprincipal enbrauce is through a finewrought iron gate. This beau-tiful park contains zoological and botanical gardens as well asplea ant walks among the trees. At the northeast end of the lakethere i a chalet where refreshment may be obtained.The Grand TMatr wa built inthe 1820's on the PLACEDELACO~dDIE. t has recently been completely redecorated and n re-volving stage, designed by Girane, has been built in. This theatreis used mostly for operatic productions. Movie theatres m ay befound all over town.Ifbilliards interest you the SAILE RA:htEAU features one of thefine t billiard rooms in France. And there used to be a seasonof pretty ood horse racinz at the GRAND CHAMPs. But if youprefer golf try the Lyon Golf Club at MONTLOUIS.

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MARSEILLEYou probably never heard of the "Battle ong of the Rhine Army."but .if anyone hums LA MARSEILL,\J~E, you'll spark because it's oneof the be t known pi ces of music in th world.You won't have to be around Marse:iJle long to understand howits name g t tied onto the French national anthem and stuck, eventhough the f'oug wa written in the city of trn hourrr, 400 milesaway. Rouget de Lisle. a French captain of engineers, scratchedit off overnight in .t: \.pril1792 and he called it the Battle Song ofthe Rhine AImy.But the Mur: eillni&-ilie hot-headed. liberty-loving people ofMarseille+started inging de Li le s words and music and whentroops from the city headed for Paris during the French R voln-tiou they shouted the ong with such enthusiasm and intensity thatit has been known ever ufter as La Iar Illui e.That episode is an example of the earnestness which has madeMarseille not only one of the world s most persistent battlers forindivirlua.l freedom but the great pst commercial port on the Med-iterranean and the second city of France.

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base and Ind ian, .A..u~trali!ln,and African troops passed through.


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Don't be rubbed the wrung way if the Mal' sillais seem to bemore hot-h aded and touchy than other F'reuchmen. They are afiery lot proud of their city, and they've been scrapping for itsince 600 B. C.Before this war Marseille had a population of almost a millionand a tradition of seagoinO"commerce dating back to when the citywas a Greek outpost and the rival of CUl'tlraue on the trade routesof the M diterranean. Even the name, Marseille come fromthe old Greek jf(J~8alia. Wan; knocked the city around for sev-eral hundred yeaL'Sand it Wi\. conquered once by Juliu Caesarin 49 B. C. Alter the Roman Empire went on the kids all thenearby powers tried to srrab oft' Marse1lle-the Goths Burgun-dian , and Frank. In 735 the aracens stormed inand de troyedall the ancient mon uments which were sti 11 left and about 200year later it feU under domination of the Counts of that part ofFrance known u Provence, The cit.y wa annexed to Francepropel' in 1481 but still battled on for its ancient liberties righton through the French Revolution and to his day. The plagueswept Marseille several times. The WOL~t year was 1720-21 when40,000 victims were carted off to common burying grounds, Dur-ing World Wat' I part of the harbor was set aside Tor a British41)

After the armistice an American embarkation por wa set upin Marseille. ,A city with a history like that is ~ound to h~ve trong convic-tions on both po1itics and econoll:IlCS, . Marseille s Olum}b'l'e deOOmlJ'YW1'Ce, for in .tnnce was ol"gamze~1 m 1650, and tl~~ CIty cele-brated its 250 th birthduy clear back m 1 99, A lot. of Import~ntthings you'll see around Marseille l ire the~'ebecause of the OIU/mo.rede (lommeraet the toek Exchange 15miles of docks, the 4Y2-mlleROVE TUNNEL, and the huge ~L\RIG ~ " N E air base.Marseille bemm to make its mark in modern commerce afterthe expansion ~f France into colonies in NOl'Lh Africa. and theop ning of the 'uez Canal in 1869. .From a 70-acre inlet theport of Marseille has been constructed into a 500-l lC1'e deep-w~tel'ancbornze where ships of all nations of the world Cl1.ne~] .heiolthe war. 31-mil jetty protects ~e harbor. o~lhl1mng 10separate basins/If you're out for e~erclse an.d the Jl.1P.",!II'. agree-abl .fhe j tty makes a spectacular hike. It rises sometime 95feet

above the sea. .The ROYE is the big .....st mnrit irne tmmel in the world. Marseilleis 25 miles from the Rhone, the most important French river41

f lowinz into tile' Mediterra nean : bur thi. tunnel makes it po. iblefor boat to trav I all the wav hom Marseille over inland water- look the ame now. The !usi di uiaut led and shipped Itway a lotof equip ment , and bui II submarine pens. Marsei lie u ed to b


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wu v to alais, on the En


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out. a lot of good hiding places fo1' the underground,After centuries of destruetion by invaders, with the handiworkof the Nazis us a climax, it is no wonder that Marseille one ofthe oldest cities of Western Europe, has few classical or u~edievnlrem ains .of,any importance. The famous Marsei i!ais poet Mel,),almost hit It on the head when he said, "There are onlv two monu-ments here, but they are magnificent :. the sea and the ~sky,,,The oldest structure in the cily is the blackened stone A DB EY O FST . VIOTOR. just of!' the BOULEVARD DE LA COIIDEnIE. Fortifiedtowers of tIle old church remain, dating hack to the 13th century.011e of the hugest churches built during the 1800's is the Roman-~yza.ntin~ Cathedral 0 : SAINTE-1IIAllIE-l'I LI..mURE. Everybody callsIt La ill (lJOI' fol' short, The cathedral is 011 a terrace northwest ofOld Town. It.was built between 1852 and 1893. The main sec-tion is 45 Q feet long with several domes) one of them 200 feet hisrh,Inside you might still find a plaque commemorating the Britishkilled in World War I. .The main, intersection of town is at the COUBS ST. LOUIS, wherethe CANEBIErol crosses the OOWl'S Belsuace-Rue de Rom: The

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Fifth Avenue IS to New York and the Champs Elysees is toParis. They are so proud 0 : then' ('main drag" I;hat they'll tenyon "If Paris had a Canehiere, then it would be a little Marseille .."The name of the boulevard comes from an old Greek word mean-ing !(hemp." Itseems this fine-looking thoroughfare used to benothing more than a footpath through a hemp field.{If the g~rmal~s haven.'t destroyed 01' dismantled it for scrap iron,you ' il.want to climb up into the tOWI'I'll of the PONT ThANSBORDEUR.I' This Isn bridge spanning the Old Harbor, built in 1905. The

towers on . either end are 282 feet high, and you. used to be ableto climb up a stairway to a height of 243~feet to take a look forone franc. The north tower had an ele-;;atol ' which would costyou 1% francs to ride up and a half-franc to ride down. Therewas a small eating place in the north tower also.This 'I'rnnsbordeur Bridge is not like any other bridge you eversaw. It' it's still in operation you'll see passengers and vehiclesborne across the harbor entrance only a few feet above the wateron a platform suspended by long cables from a power-carrier roll-ing on a track more than 200 feet above you, II; is 870 feet fromshore to shore.

45

Another good view of the harbor is from the Paosrs ADE PlERRE- Ifyou're interested in old coins. you'll want to wander into thPUBLIO LIBRA Ryan the OOU1'8 Julien. not fa]' from the Bouleuord.


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PUGET Gardens. From there you look northwest !ICl'O~ the 01


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EGUES joined by a 300-yanllneakwllte.r to form what is called thePORT 'ou li'RIOUL. _ A _ third Frroul island nearby is the hist.orie ISLED'IF. There, in a 16th century chateau, dangerous erimina.ls polit-ical prisoners, and spies have been held through hundreds ~ryear8)and it was in fl. dungeon of the C HlT EA U D 'lF tlULt the Gunt 01Monte Cristo Dumas fictional hero, spent his youth in irnprisen-ment. Visit~rs to the chateau have beeuknown to ig:nUl'C thedungeons whet'S rea] life prisoners rotted, asking all the -mrlle tosee the cell of Edmund Dantes, the story-hook count,Before t]16 war Marseille was noted for several rare food special-t ies, but under German occupation it 'was believed to be tbeworst-fed city in France, This was largely because sen foods hav'ealwaysboonthe main item ill Ma rseille 's diet H]]d the Nazis would not per-mit the city'!:; fishermen to take their boats beyond the easilyguarded port.SOo]] all those famous fish dishes which the gourmets ased toenjoy in the cafes of t]lf> Ctnebiel'P I'IIH.1 Comichl> Road s'buld beret Inning. The most renowned of :1] IMarseille delicacies ii . calledbooilloboisee. H vour chef can serve it, you'll see hirn throwtogether 10 to 15 kinds of fish and crustaceans, then ada lQlutoes,

48

and saffron.Some other favorite orders in the fanciest restaurants along theCanebiere are bt '(Jmdade, a cod-fish stew: 80WP d e p oi ss on a soupmade of fish that has beP:llpounded and pushed through a strainer;:1nd(J),oU, a.mayonnaise with garlic. The best things to drink. withmixtures like this are a a . y & i f ; and p ic p ou J . . . .Shortly the waterfront hawkers ought to be hack at their oldstands, just as at Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco. They'll hebehind their big signs reading J i" 'u its d e Me7'--Fr~it of the Sen-with aJI kinds of shellfish, shrimps, and crabs WhICh you can buyand eat like popcorn.Ailel' having been inMarseille for quite a spell, if you rind youstill can 't make head 01: tail (rf what the citizens are saying to you,don't take it too hard. It's a special French dialect.The Murseillais are as individualistic as their Ianguage, and no-body has been able to knock them loose from the be1i~f that l,hey arefree men and their own masters. When a bullfight IS held m Mar-seillo=against the law=-spaotntors ones coughed Llp enough moneyin excess of the price of admission so that the promoters of theevent were able to pay the fine,

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MONTE CARLOs o

MONTE CARLOThere is very little_hance that you will, ee t he r 0.1MONTE OARLOduring your stay in outhern France. You win probahly neverget the chance to enter the Casino. It probably W:0l1 ' t be open.N vertheles , there is much more to Monte Carlo than just thgl'eat O'ambl1l1O'ouse. The PnrNC'IPAT,lTY OF fONACO, which COUl-prises three town. -MONTE CARLO, LA COND_U1Th'E. and MONACO--preads over a hill.Vwedge of lund eight mile' quare. It. shel-tered from northern winds by a high wall of rnouutaius, and hasa two-mile frontage on the blue LroUlUAN SEA. 'I'he climate thereis said (0b th e 1 1 e 5 t . in the- entire Mediterranean al'(~a---{\benignblend of bright still and balmy rlir that stirs the goorl-to-be-alivefeeling.Monaco has a fascinating history. From DGto 17D5itwas an in-dependent principality. Then when the French i-evolut.iou dis-p 'se sed the reigning Prince, it was added to France. The prin-cipality was placed under the protection of the Kingdom of a r-dinia in1815 by the 'I'reuty of Vienna,

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ill1911 a COil titutional government war established providing01' a National Council ] t cl by a universal mal vote. Itwas picture of aaily tinte 1buildiuss set in green gard n.


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d emed that the Prine should divide authority with a council ofate and t1le National Council, The law of Monaco weI'S basedon the French coIe, but Monaco had it own flag and isued itown postag stamps.At one time you could have enjoy d .hnrming bathina beachesa mountainous


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Of course, you could probably never cenvince your CO to srivyou pennia rion to spend an entire season at the Casino, so y~ll'dprobably want only a.one-clay ticket-if the pla e is open.Th re used to be admission rees to ther plne s rn the Casinotoo. For instanee, i,co, ts five ii'anes to enter the Atrium andreuding room ifrom 10 to 20 francs to the concert room; and be-tween 30 to 40 frm c for the theater. TIler} there was a chm-zeof one franc for checking Y01.1rap. to~ au will f h , l d a 'portin,!!; Club (marked", .") west of theCasino, opposite the post oille(', It is a new buildinz :fa inc zar-~ : b' b b'iens 0 remarkable beantj' with many palm fL ' es in 1ull view.The La Fe 'ta sports grounds of the Monte Carlo ountry Club isclose by and it has 20tenn iscourts, two equasb-rncket courts, swim-ming baths, restaurant and a clubhouse.,~t one tim chane was king at the Casino. But if you plan to

VIS.It, Monte Carlo for games of c.hnnce ~ow, you may be disap-po~nled. .c evel'tlleles , ItWIll be interesting to see the place andgam a first -hand 1"llO~Iedgeof It SUIT nuding there. The peoplemrry have many stone to LeUyou.S4

N I C EFor many years past, the whole idea and purpose of NICE hasbeen the amusement of vacationists, tourist and wealthy playboys.The whole set-up was made for it: J!.hny hotel lrestaurants, bars,cabarets, pigeon-shooting arrangements, and a handsome casinoon the pier. The principal manufactures included perfumedistilled spirits, silk, soap, confectionery, straw lints "heel chairs,pianclas and tobacco. The climate i considered favorable 01'chest complaints. "out, asthma, and catarrh. Operas balletsfencing, flying; horse hicycle, and auto rncing ; swimming d31H.\-iug-nll were available.The famous carnival, held durinz the 12 days preceding Lenteach year involved mu: ked balls, battle ..of flower. confetti-throw-ing, tinworks, showgirls frOID Paris, and plenty of noi 'e.A PAST GLIM PSEIt is doubtful if you will find Nice quite so gay these days) nor1U1S it always been so. Founded about 2,000 years ago by Greeksfrom Marseille, it became a bu y trading station. By the 14~h

5S

esntury the maritime trenzth of Nice had rea hed sufficient pro-


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portions to give the Barbary Pirates pause intheir gtmeral depre-dations on all Mediterranean shipping. The 16th century wa arugged hundred years for the citizens of Nice. Pestilence andfamine raged, and the fortified city wa attacked and pillaged byFrancis Iand Barbaro sa,In 1626 the port wn declared open to all nations. Nearly ahundr d years later the French besieged the citadel and demol-ished the ramparts. In 1713, t he Treaty of Utrecht returned thecity to the ounts of Sav y nnd ew Town wa built, From1744 to 1148 tl e Fr nch IIud S I ani h wer asnin in po session.Fl'OU then on, it was tos ed back and forth several times, at la tremaining with France niter a treaty ill 1800.In1940 Nice was about as far away 11 people could get fromthe NaIDs and still stay ill France, Re uge flooded the city,only to find that Italy had declared war, and under the terms oftle Axis armistice, the city found itself in the Italian zone ofo ut ation, By 1941 Nice had revi ed some of its lost O"n. iety,but in 1942, after the Allied occupation of North Africa~ the warwas once more brought, clo e. The German emphasized the mil i-tary tatus 0 : the city anti gl'e11tlystrength ned its deen es, Like

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most Riviera towns, Nice began to run short of staple food Ibecause only vegetables and fruits were locally grown.


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AROUND THE TOWNPrewar Nice reported a populaUon of nearly 250 000. swelled

by many thou ands of visitors during tht> winter touris season.The Old Town the most interesting part of the city, lie betweenthe RIVER PAII1A.ON, the old 5th century castle and the sea. The11al"I'OW streets appear more Italian than French.The much IUI'germodern town has spacious promenade on the

sea front. the most popular being the 150 foot wide PROMENAI>EDEs ANGLAIS, and handsome, palm-lined streets with attractiveshops and Iuxnrions hotels. On the hill above are opulent pri-vate villas and more hotels. The A''ENlJE DE Ll VICTOIRE leadpast th~ impo ing :l1odern Gothic DUROR OF OTREDAME throughthe bu. ie pn 1 1 . of town to the Casino.

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TOULONTOULON will be best remembered from this war as the port wherethe French scuttled their fleet when the Germans overran ~outhernFran i11 November 1942 but the city has a long lu tOl'?, aFrance' most. powerful 11


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basin i< ; called the l)ETITE ruDE, and the outer harbor is theGRANDE RADE. Bomb-proof moles 1370 yard long form a break-water b tween the smaller port and th roadst ead. Even in peace-time you co lIl11'1 carry a cam ra in the surrounding bill .Toulon was called T'elouio by the ancient Greeks and Telo.llartiue by th Romans. During (he middle age. it wa of DOimpor ance becau it wa: too remote from the e tabli heel traderoutes, It modern growth is due entirely to it naval importance.The aracens sacked the city il l 1) and it was captured twiceby harles V before Henry IV ordered lortification erected at theend of the 16th century. The defenses were then strengthenedby Louis; IV nnd III1707 a combined attack by an Au strian andurdini!lll army and the Enzli hand Du ch fleet was successfully

beaten off.Durinz the Fr nch Revolution, Toulon citizens who were loyalto the crOWD turned the port over to the Engli 11fleet uncle!' Vis-count Roo L For 16 week aft r that Hood battl d to hold off 11ig by th R volutionury At'my and finally had to withdraw I'llHeel. Thi wa: the battle in which a 23-yeul'-olU artillery officerle 1 the capture of the major forts eoinrnandina tbe roadstead com-60 61

pe~ling: the British J'~t)"eat. TIl youllg officer was promoted to In spite of the changes Llla~ the G:l'man ol:CUl~atiOl~ aml.All,ied


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brigadier-general. HIs name was Napoleon Bonapal"le.After the AJJied landiuzs ill North Africa in November 1942

Toulon pl! sed f1"0111 the Vichy administration of UnoccupiedFrance to actual Nuzi control. ince then the harbor hus servedas II erruan Tl-hont nest.Toulou 's arse.ni lls norma lly gave employment to a luge per-

centaze of t~e CIty s p()pu1! ll~on. Itwas a co mcpolitan galheril1gplace, especially popular with Russians, Before tI10 war therewere band concerts and an ail' of gaiety, The QUAl DE 'nONSTADTwas tlu'ollgc~l T il the .e~e.nings, but there were 110 fa. Ilion paradesand no CHr'lIIvu 1 festiviti as at l'Tice and Cannes and few whocame to Toulon were there for pleasure alone.T~le cit! hall. its Parisian shops, however, and sidewalk cafes and

motion pI 'tUl'e .h(?use. Th(' ~'()nlcdie Fruncaise Oftl'll played illjhe theater ubsidized by the city, and an occasional opera reachedthe. stage." Toulon a] 0Imd its own Little Thea 'I" known as ' TheChirnn '~). al~d tbougl~ th~ atmosphere was largely in keeping withnrIva~ discipline, the fashionable restaurants, casino art galleriesand library were full, '62

bombings hav brouzhr about 11 1 the C I t y , you'll" III enJoy climbingup into the Old TU\Yll with its narrow 18th. century streets gr~lIpedabout the harbor. The R E D'jc\LGER leading to the harbor is thebusiest street in the Old Town. Between the Rue d'Alger and theCOlJRS Lm YEITE i s S ' rE -M , \nm-1 \1d . J'EURE , t h remains of u cathe-dral built in the 11th and Izth centuries. The ARIilllNAL I\fARITIl'tIEwhich you 11walk into if you go we t on the Quai J Cr nstadt, wil lprobably be of]' limits. In peacetime it "a never open toforeigners.Besides Ste-Merie-Mni ure, other chief buildingsto look for int118 city are the CHURcn OF ST-LoUls the NAVAL Al\TIJ M1LIT.\RYHOsP1TAL. the NAVAL SCHOOL OF MEDICINE and the SCHOOL OFHYDROGRAPHY.Th BOULEVARD DE S'fBA BOURG crosses the entire breadth of Tou-lon east to west, p,lS. ing the CASINO and the GRAND 'l'Hi,lTRE, A11111 um is al 0 on the Bonl vard de trasbourg which con ain allexhibit of ship model and collection of coins,Inthe old days a . daily market stretched tor a half milealonz theCOURS I..F.AYETI'E. The street was clo ed to all vahicular trafficuntil noon. There housewive came to bargain for fruit and f low-

63

er fish and fowl, meats and vegetables. You will still . e ailors bauxite are taken from the hill north of the city, Toulon imports


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':Ul~d>ring aro~lDdin this ection snatching off a brenkfn t of 1 ' "Lfruit topv.ed ":llh stl'?ng coffee from It nearby bist ro., In no( dUl'll1g a siege of Toulon a hip's cannon threw (L ballm.o the wall of No..87 Co~J' Lafayette. That cannonball alway:(h~w flock of tourists before the W1H. f the Germans haven'tpried the ball out and shipI?ed ithome :1'01' a souvenir you'll prob-ably ee flocks of yonr buddies around No. 87 I lO ' ' ' ' .Fl'(1JU the Caul's Lafay'tte you csu reach lhe old cathedral TE-

!.1ARIE-M._'\,JEtJREy way of the RUE E~nLE-ZoLA. The ancientstructure was enlarged and strengthened by a heavy facude in the17t.h cen~ll'~ and the tower wa added in the 18th centurv.The principal eating place , in Toulon wer along the Boulevardd tmsbo1l1:g,and tlie Quai droll. til It. Dm-ing some ea all.

you ~ould V1S1t the racetrack at LAoouuRAN, two miles eas ofthe city ..1.U~hol~gl~tJ:eI~~n'alinstallntions have squeezed Toulon s com-mercial fnCJli~les into one small part of the east end of the harbor.t l~e port CIU:l'les on a fair tl'El~~ in 11O!'IDHltimes, Toulon hip.wine, coal J:imbel' salt figs, raisins, almonds, oranges. cloth cork,soup and OIls. Al~o, out of thi. port the . S. used to receive

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corn wood, coal. hemp and salt provisions. Iext to the naval ba 'Coperations however, the city' bigge t industries ar hip buill-1nO' fi hinz and -.;ins growing. Toulon i still not 1 for purpled); attained from murex which i plentiful in the naighbormgsea. oon you should be able to take ,1 . pleasure. boat ricle from theQuai de Cronstadt to several nearby pcints of interest. Among thesuburban bathing beaches which can he.reached by boat is TAMARlS.Itwa there that George Sand turned out most of her well knownwritinzs and it was the home of one of the w rld foremo twoman compo ers, Ce .il Chaminade. The sc 11 e of orne ofJoseph Conrad's last works was laid in the vicinity of Toulon,Interesting Spots in the Surrounding CountryAbout 10 miles west of Toulon ate the remains of a prehi toricsettlement called GORGES DOLLIOULE.. Aboye the gorge you cometo the village of E vi:N OS. T here on a 1,312-foot volcanic moundare an old castle !U1da modern fort. A pectacular errated sand-

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stone rock to the right of the gorg i. known as the GRE DETE-A mE.

par e woods to a riug rising to the summit of Cap icie, Thereat 1181 feet i the pilgrimage chapel of NOTlUl-D ~lE-DE-BoN 11:-


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, ot ~ar from the Gorges d Ollioules you can make an interestinz~l:1et:'lP ,to th HUTELLERIE DE J,A AIN'l'E-R\U],!E. The Hotellerirt elf 1 Itu,uted on th almost treeles west side of a t ny plateau,The other 5](1e of ~hesame 11i1]is covel:ed by a state forest of oaks,b~eches~.mal?les limes y ,YS and hollies, There are many foot-path ~ ith SIgn post~ all through the forest so you can 't get lost,E,'el'Y. now ~11c1 then 111 a small clearing in the trees, you will cometo a little 1 r.th cent.tHY wayside chapel. At the eil'st. end of thefore t you climb It limestone ridge to reach the SAINTE-BAmrE or"I;I~]y Cu:ve. ' . The cave is et into the perpendicular wall of aclifl. ItI called' Holy ave" because of an Id story relatinzthat ~hecave ~vasonce the Iwelling of St, Mary Macrdalene, Theeave I . an allCl~nt place of pilgrimaO"e, and yotl probably won t be!t1o~)e if y ou clll~b the rock staircu e to the mouth of the cav rn.In ide the cave IS a co~rl spring, Over the centur-ies the cave hasbeel: converted into a l'lchly decorated chapel.Ifyo .u ?ave ~ da:y to spare, there is a ste~Ullel ' 01' tram hip to CAPrCt;Iil,dll?h will gn:e you It hort COUl' e In the geography of thissection of the .M"echerra nea J] coast, You will climb tlu-ouzh ab66

GARDE, and beyoud the chapel is a ruined tower. From till pointon a clear day you should be able to.' e all the way from he Toul nroadstead along the coast to the Des d'Hyeres on the ea t and theneighborhood of Marseille 011 the west.The city of BriBE, a COll1JDUJlity of about 20,000 is the oldeswinter resort 011 the )letlitel'l'anean. Before the war it was al-way filled with British visitor from .November to February,The climate .is slightly milder here than at Toulon, but the townis insufficiently protected again t the mistral. Ifyou can arrangeto drop in at Hyeres in early summer, you'll be able to bite intosome o f the finest strawberries il l the world.

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TOULOUSE


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The city of Toulouse is ODe of (h e chief centers of trade litera-ture and jut in southern Franc. Ifyour arrival in this sectionof the country is from Boaonatrx or ii 'om somewhere in northernFrance, the first thing you will notice is the strange soundingRoman dialed of the people here, This i the COl 'net' of Francewhich long ago became 1010'


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The Canal du Midi, orirrinall . called the Canal du Lanzuedoc1\"3 built by apriv~lte cjtiz~n between IGGGancl16 1. Puut"Riquetof Bezier pH~d 11 000,000 francs all of his OW11 pocket for thewaterway which connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediter-ranean Sea with the aid of the Garonne. The canal bezins at thePOIlT DE L'El\IUOUCHOllE here in 'I0 ulouse and runs 150 l1~iles to theEtal1g de Thall) a small inland sea by the town of Aade on the11edi terrn nean. t:I'Fht' calla] i f ' ; 3:3.:feetwide at the bottom and 65 feet at the surface,ItIS 6Y 2 feet deep, t one point the canal climbs a hill by meansof locks. You pass thl'o~gh 17 locks to climb 205 feet th~m to goback down on the other SIde n drop of 6:20feet, von pas throuzh~m~~~. . t:IThe double,row of trees which ]illes the cann l makes nice scen-ery, but t.hat l:~u'twby they wer planted the!'!'. The trees act asa p~'otecbye windbreak against the easonal mistral which mightea lly blow all the water out or the canal. These oak, pine, cy-pres! and plane trees make the cunal one of the most beautifulwaterways in France.

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is no lisewiring for your divinJ! suit b ause C ear back in lOG B. C.a Toulouse city official got the 'am idea. He drained the poo!and npI)J'opl'iatetl the money. Later when he was defeated il l bat-tle by Gallic tribes everyone aid he ~ot just what he deserved.nder early centuries of Ruman rule, Toulouse was known asTolosa. _ A _ t tha t time it \TUS H vcrv unimportant place, ix orseven mile - east of the mn in part of the city, up on the heights,people are still find illg fragments of an old earthen wall markingthe site of the old Roman settlement. Coins found at the ampot date back to the 2d century B, ,The city s modern history b gan about 7 when Charlemaanedecid d his son ought to he a king and set him up a ' !e ruler ofAquitaine, i\'ith Tonlou as hi chief city. From the 11th . n-tury the oreate 1l()l'(l. in sout hem France were the ounts ofToulouse. After the middle of the 12th century, the people ofToulouse began trying to free th rn: elves from oppre ion byfeudal overlords. It took two hundred years, but in 1443 theparliament of Toulouse was established. It was f01' Lanquedoc-whnt the p


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l'~1icea bull~)J1 lie altar of Jupiter. He was martyred by beillg(led to the tall of h bull and dl'ugge ithrough the streets,It'W_a in T ulouse thul, Adam mith In 1 7 6 4 0 began to write abook 'Illorder to pnss awny the t imc." The book was ",Vealth ofNation .' ahnndbook of political economy that became a cla sic,The old section of Toulouse is bull t a111101,1ntirely of red brick.Prewar tourists almost ttlways placed Toulouse thi I 'd only to Parisa lid ROIIPll as one of the most in ensting cities in France.The oeinl and municipal center of Toulouse is the PLACE m rGUI'roLE on the RUE LAFAYE'l"I'K The Oapito1e, 01' HOtel de Villewas na~11eclafter the enpitouls, That wus what magistrate wercalled 11 1 th 1 tli -entury. Iural paintings within the apitolare t)~ework, of ~(Jlll()l.l earl ists, The outh wing of the apitolecontain the Municipal Theater.Ifyou walk north from the Place du apitole OIl he RU E ocrTAUR, you pass the 14th century church of NOTR.E-DAlIt:E-O -TAUR.~Iti j the spot where t., atuminus is supposed to have heeutied to the bull, 'I'he Rue de 'ram ends at the PL.-\Ol,':l'- 'ERlnNwhere the most fatuous sisrht in Tuulouse is located.72

feet in its largest dimensions, Inside the church i, the tomb ofSt. Saturninus, It rests naturally. on bronze bulls.Across the street from th church is the Mu BE ST-RAYMOND.It is part of an old colleae of the ame name. Beside a good col-Iection of archaeological and ethnographical exhibits, there arerooms conta illing Chinese, Japanese, and . - I . .fricnn curi 0 i ties anda collection of 5,000 rare corns.Toulouse has many rich mansions o r the 10th and 17th cen-turies. The best of these are the Horer, BERNUY and the HOTEL

D A,Sl'lZA-T. Jean de Beruuys was a punish merchant who guar-anteed It 2,000,000 franc ransom for the return O T Francis I afterthe battle of Pavia in 1525. He built his mansion betw en 1509and 1534:. t is now part of the LY'e orprepuratory chool, andcontuin the Toulouse town library.The HOTEL D' S!illZ"\T E'I DE L:E:MENCE-ISAUR"E was pre ented toToulouse in 1 95 for lhe u e of the learned societies of the city.Itwas designed about 1555 for Pierre d'A.ssezat. a merchant andmagistrate of Toulouse. Itis 110W the seat of the Ac.mEWE DESScn:NCES, INSCIUJ.>TIONR ET BELLES-LETrREs and the AC.~DIDllE DE

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LI~tiISL.\l'TO a' well as the \CADEJ\HE Dr,' JEUX-F'LORAUX, probablyth okle t literary so '-jety in Europe. AccordinO' to tradition la t tim s t lie bridges of r. Michel an 1 t. Pierre) one above andone below Pont euf, were washed out was in June 1875. Pont


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Clemence Isaure, a uoble dame of Toulouse, left a legacy to theAcademic de Jeux-Flol'HllX which enabled t i l > college to increasethe number of gold and ilver flowers it gave away each year asawards to writers. Histoi inns now clain that lemellce a Ill'wn a purely legendary fizure, Even 0, if you look ill th arcadeof he court at the Hotel d' ssezat, you will see a tatue of lC11l-ence Lsaure.You will find the Hotel d As ezuL near the intersection of RU EDEL 'E HAPJ?E and the RUE DE ~1ETZ, The Hotel Bemuy is on the

RUE GAMBE'I' l' .. \ n t far from the PORT DE LA DAUH.iDE.LA Darrn .....E, a c1n11'('11ebuilt in the 18th century, i on the siteof a allo- oman building which was covered ,...ill! mosaics on a

background of gold. Our friend Clemence I aure, who Witn vel' suppo ed to ha ve liv d in the firs place is buried mder Ihal tar aecordina to local tradition.Toulouse i so close to the Pyrenees that the GUl'0l111e is still arapid stream as it passes the cily. In the history of the town,many bridges have be 1 1 swept away, The three bridges 'which110W spun th riv r however have stood for almost 100yenrs. The74

Neuf is a stone bridge of seven arches builtbetween 1543 and 1614.The rnzina river bas never been able to budd it.t:> The city' main museum of fine arts j,on old Augustllllun C011-vent on th I UE o'AL ACE-LoRRAI~E. I wa buil betwe n 1309-41,but was modified in the 16th an i17th centuries, Ithas iome of thebest O'alIel'iesof pub) ting and cu lpture in southern France,AJthough Toulouse .is heavy on the art Ride, it is also he prin-ripul comm reial and industrial c nter of Languedoc. There youcan r . important market for horses. wiue, graill flowers, leather,oil and farm produce. Below the t. Miche) bridge is one ofFrance's several national tobacco factories, Before the war thisfactory employed between 1500 fwd 2,000 people.There are numerous theater ill Toulouse and in fay there areusually ru ring lay for the horse at LA (JEpri:m;, If OU arthel'e in th fall. don't be tartled at 0 1 ight of little kills play-IDO' :ugby football in the vacant lots. Rugby for orne rea on orother has become very popular 111 ToUJOll e although it i play~dvery little anywhere else in Frunce. In season, there are bigmatches at th TArlE TOULQUSJAN.

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In the line of food Toulouse lias one 01' two specialties, Pale.sTru.[es are the local variation of the pates de foie (J'I'ta; that you JOllS cures brought abou by n . spring ill (he Grotto. For yearspecial trains have run from all parts of France bringing passen-


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m us t 1 1av e eaten already no matter where you have heeu 'in Fraw'c,Oaesouie Touloueios is another rnvol'ite itei Ion the menno Itisa full meal of soup mad with potatoes and lima beans, pods andall. Ifyou want to make a hit with Some little Toulousiennebuy her a fistful of violets. 'Lourdes IsW ithin E asy R eachAnyone who is as '10.'(' a . Toulon e hould make an effOlt to zetover to Lotmos , the mo. t renown cl pilgrim resort in th Catholicworld. Itwas nt Lourdes that Bernndellt' Soubirons, a 14-year-old pea an t shephe1'C~es. declared that the Virgin Mm',\' nppearcdto her several times Il1 the GROTTO DE 1\lASi;LIBIRLLE 011 the bank ofthe GA.VE. That was all FeUl'UlIl 'Y 11 1858. For several year,'

Berna~lett ~vasscoff d ut by her townspeople allrl m any repre-eutative. of the church but finally h r visions were uulhentica t eeland the Pope authorized t he cult or ur Lady of Lout-des, A~anctuaTY was erecte~l ,IIt the Grotto, Pilgiin I. flocked in, first~1'OIll nearby communities, then from a11parts of Frunee, and nowfrom all over the world. Everyone ha heard reports of miracu-76

ger, to Lourdes,The birr organized p.ilgl'imHgp!,; nsna lly take place between theend of _A pril and middle uf 0 tob r. Within the f ur week'between the middle of Auzust and the middle of epternber about1~0,000visitors had been corning eyery year until the time of thewar. The average year brought about 600.000 visitors to a citywhose home population is about 10,000.You ar probably acquainted wit 11dcta il of the story of Lourdeseither from th moving picture "~ong of Bernadette' or FranzWeriel' nov 1 from vhich the pietur was made.Historically, Lourdes was import t1l11 long before Bernadettreligious experiences. ~\.]th{jugh the earliest origins ure uncertain,the city wa already Iamous as u fUl'tress ill the ! o l t l t century. III1360 the English got Lourdes from the Fl'ench by treaty then lostit back 10 the French ill a war in 1406. From th r ign 01' LouisXIV to the beginning of th 19th century the castle of Lourd swas used as a state prison.Lourdes is divided into an old HUUnew town by the river, G.WED Pxu. Two bridzes connect the old quarter and the newer

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section. From both bridges there are l'mHls leading to the Grotto,The old quarter on the right bank surrounds a scarped rock onwhich stands the old fortress and castle, relics of the Llth century.For an excellent view of the eutire town and area of pilgrimageyou cu n take u cable ear to the PIG DE ,In. located about 1.! l l~i. lesfrom the Lourdes station. After you sret out of the car you cJlIllh


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From Pont euf a broad esplannde leads past the Breron Cal-vary. Thi is a crucifix 40 feet high chiseled from Brittanygranite. TheEsPL.\N.\DEDE Plm Et;SHh. ends at Ihc Grott o. Allalong the road. hawk 1'.'lwv> little tn lls where they will try tosell YOli "objects of pi sty." "The Grotto itself is a recess Hi feet deep aud 16 feet "ide closedin with a raili np:. On n rock high above is a statue of tho Virgiuas Bernadette described her, wearing a while roue with It bluescarf, The walls of the Grotto a1'1' black from t,L_p ruoke ofcandles, You will see ciutclies ha n gi n IX from the walis. A. djoin -ing the GroUl) is the fiJ'HcululIs Spring whose waters hre drunkand bathed in by the pilgrims. Th priug i uow shut ill by awall with Laps,Ifyou nrc goina to the Grotto with II large gl"onp of strangersand the citizens of LOU1 'd s have not already warned you, thenrC Il 1C111bc r th is : look out for pickpockets,Over in the olr] tOWIl if you ask around, most a IlJ'OIll' cun sho\\'you where Bernadette oubirous used to live.78

another eirrht 01' 10 minutes to the top of the peak, 3115 feet high.In other caves around Lourdes. people nrc till finding pre-hi toric remains. The GnOTrE DES Sri.LuGUES and the GROTn: DTILo pare 110W part of a reQ'ular sid trip. In the Grott dn Loup,modern times have added a spectacular a peer to antiquity- hestalagmites rising out of the floors of the chamber are all lightedby electricity,Building mat rials u d for many mile. around ha ve been takenfrom marble and slate quarries of Lourdes for centuries.AstOlli!>b ina cures hn VB been reported from Lourdes throughoutthe I n t 100 years) but busine men have taken a reali tic viewof the miracles of the Grotto. .J : ot far from where B rnadetteexperienced her visions are a larue abri, 01' shelter, several convents,

all asylum for the aged, all orphanage, the great HOS.FlCE T-FMIand a new ho pitul with all modern m dical contrivances.11 fact, Lourdes touay is as well known throuzhout France asu medicalcenter as it is for its miraculous cures.

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VICHY


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80

Long before VICHY became the grim capital of occupied France. in1940 the 011 Romans 'were flocking there to bathe in and drink thewat r 1 " m the 40 spring which give out with hot 01' cool waterwith varying alkaline contents. The waters wer thouzht to Lo beneficial ill the treatment of several affliction and disorderthat as much as 2,500,000 gallons were bottled and exported all-nually. orne of t he salt. in the waters were even evaporated outand made int o tablets. But apparently most of the health-givingqlla lities dep nded upon the fact Ih n t l11 chief constituent of thebeneficial waters i hi arbonnt of odn.The town, of some 19,000inhabi ants, was chiefly a spa or water-ing place, The bathing establishment was founded in 1820, butif YOLL only want to drink the waters you can go to the spring palace.There is al 0 a CASINO, and a theater. OW PARK, by the Casino, isa pleasant place, too but if you really want a fine walk, try thepromenade alung the bank. of the Allier, This promenade 'followsthe river border oi the NE W PAllK.

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I; is quite possible that the fashionable collaborat ionists, withthe .Petniu-Laval government, hav In'! t Vichy in zood repair,The covered walk in the Old Park leads 1 . . 0 the Casino behind MEMORANDA


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which is the litt le PABa DB L'HoPIT_\L whose arcades shelteredthe better shU1)S. At the .north (,lid of the park is ilia H.\LL DESSOURC~ where the 'waters of four of the chief $Pl-lllgS may be drunk,The EV.BLI AEl\rENTTHERMAL has buildinzs on both sides of theRUE LUC.AS, These buildings house the bnths of various sorts andtemporatures.Between the New Park and th RUE DU MAMCHAL-FoCH is theold part of Vichy. Here you will find the 15lh century CHUTtCII OFST, BLd.lS.E and severa 1 interesting 15th and 16th century houses,To the west of the church is the 15th century clock lower.

FONDREN LIBRARYS o u th e rn M e t h o d is t U n l V B r t l t yn L rfEXAS

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M EM ORANDA M EM ORANDA


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MEMORANDA-"-- - - '--,--


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.:iii:)!QW. .!'"~

I~'") 1.., ~" " ~Ii - -~I- L '- ,-,-


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Documents

Pocket Guide to the Cities of Southern France