SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER 2012 NO. 4

Swim, don’t Ski!Swim, don’t Ski!

PainfullyPainfullyBeautifulBeautifulBolBol

Little BigLittle BigDrvenikDrvenik

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The Harbour in HelsinkiThe picture with the sailing boats has been taken in the Katajanokka harbour in Helsinki, Finland, in the end of Finnish summer. This harbor, which is situated in the east side of the central Helsinki, has had some good and bad times, once been place for an illegal sells of alcohol and prostitute. Nowadays this peaceful harbour is one of the most beautiful one in Helsinki, having old school markets next to it and also frequent cruise to Esto-nia and Sweden to get our beloved drinks even little bit cheaper than in Finland (eventhough the cruise itself cost already more than the drinks).

The Finns and the SeaFinnish coastline is 46 000 km long and we have more than 73 000 islands next to the coast. Dominant coast types consist only rock-and moraine shore, when sand beaches are rare. For us having a summer house next to lake or sea is essential! Hav-ing sauna, boat or a yacht, grill and place to swim is all what we need. That’s were we relax in the summer, and in the win-ter. Also there we can be more isolated than in the city (like you can be more iso-lated already when you live in Finland), of course gossiping about neighbors that are on the other islands or next to us on the shore, and then after couple of hours forgetting all these and jumping naked to the serene lake. That’s where all the wor-ries go away and we don’t need to care about anything anymore. Just me and my summerhouse on the shore.

REPORT NEWS

First Nordic Foreign Correspondent for The Port News

PORT NEWSPORT NEWS IN FINLAND IN FINLAND

Text & Photo byOona Lydia Kristiina Polvi

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Staying at sea you can make a choice

and take what you like: a Robinson way of

vacation in desert cove or a rich holiday

in some Dalmatian little town. Even in a

single day you can taste a bit of both.

Seka and Ivan Barač already for

years go out to sea for a period of one

hundred days. They sail with their seven

meters long boat, equipped as a summer

house and they anchor in some cove. So

Seka stays at boat like any good house-

wife and Ivan called Bare goes fi shing on

a small boat. For these hundred days they

supply the boat with 200-300 liters of wa-

ter and gasoline, twelve gas bottles for

refrigerators and cooking, only basic food

because they bake their own brad… The

last days of summer they spend in the

bay Lučice on the island of Brač.

PORT NEWS IN FINLAND

By Ana Gaspar

TRUE ROBINSONS

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This summer top destination for the tourists it is the coast around Makarska. Top of that candy is small town called

Baška Voda where in the season on each resi-dent there are fi ve tourists. Where did they fi t? Mainly, they rent a private accommoda-tions – of course – it’s much cheaper than hotels. But it’s interesting that most of them demanded expensive apartments whit water pools even if there are a little bit distant from the sea. Here are some amazing numbers. In the middle of the season in Split-Dalma-tia county every day there was a hundred thousand guests, half of that, fi fty thousand, are just people who visited The Makarska Riviera, and one fi fth of that are just people who visited Baška Voda – the town with normal population of 2,000, in the middle

Cote d’Azur of MakarskaCote d’Azur of M

Thousands of shellsMalacological museum in Makarska is very famous, and not just in Dalmatia. In the museum, thousands of diff erent sea shells are just waiting for you to see them. And not just them – plants in Bio-kovo area herbarium are also impatient for your attention.

Publisher:Port Authority of Split-Dalmatia County

For the publisher:Port Authority director Domagoj Maroević

Editor in chief:Domagoj MaroevićEditor:Mario Garber

Editorial concept and design:Garber media d.o.o.

Editorial staff:Domagoj Maroević, Ante Sanader, Mario Garber, Elizabeta Sonjara Garber, Goran Albini Kamanjo, Ana Gaspar, Leo Kuret, Branko Kirigin, Andrija Križančić, Jakša Fiamengo, Vinko Tranfić, Filip Zlatan Zoričić, Tomislav Akrap, Segor Garber (logo design)

Photos:Garber media d.o.o.

Translation into English:Sandra Vujnović, Segor Garber

Lector:Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

Prepress:Nenad Nazlić

Printed in:Split, Slobodna Dalmacija Print d.o.o.

COVER PHOTOS:Lučki vjesnik:MakarskaPort News: Rogač, Šolta

ISSN 1848-4689

of summer hosts 10,000! So, 50,000 tour-ists, 12,000 of them settled in hotels, 2,400 in camps and 34,000 in the private accom-modations. Baška Voda is the champion, and fi rst place next to it is, of course, Makarska whit great monument of Napoleon Bonapar-te, who developed way toward culture for ancient Makarska residents. That is some-thing that every tourist should see, especially French. Today even Napoleon would like to take a walk through beautiful narrow streets, picturesque squares and especially famous seafront. Of course, there is a few interesting happenings for all tourists, not just for Mr Bonaparte, like summer carnival, a lot of vari-ous concerts, famous festival of traditional Dalmatian music, diff erent Fishermans par-ties whit all types of funny games…

PORT NEWS HIT

Written by Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

Makarska Residents:Branko Roglić

Now for years Branko Ćićo Roglić has

the reputation of being a successful

business man but he is also known

as a man with strong endeavor of not being

only a dull collector of money. He loves life,

he is interested in everything and deals with

beautiful things like wine, books, perfumes,

yachts.

Cote d’Azur of MakarskaMakarska He has a feeling how to recognize the proper man with something artistic in him-self. So his sailing crew is headed by Zlatan Filip Zoričić. In his youth he played for the famous Split football team Hajduk. The year 1971 was his turning point, so you can read in newspapers that he renovated the birth house of his idol Miko Tripalo…

Recently he proved that he is an eternal devotee of good hope: he accepted to sup-port The Makarska Chronicle, cult newspa-

pers of local provenance and global forces,

launched by Anđelko Erceg and on his

mission persisted Anđelko’s wife Maja Er-

ceg. Bravo, Ćićo! And here he is in his native

Makarska, deservedly enjoying with his wife

Vjeka.

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SAILING IN AS A MUST

HOW TO SAIL IN AND SAIL AWAY, THEN SAIL IN AN

SWIM, DON’T SKI!SWIM, DOThe sea is not for running, it’s for swimming. Even at the

slow motion experience. But you – you just swished bAdriatic sea. And you even paid for it. And paid it well. W

romantic, you ca

If you’re not sure how to roam the seas, maybe you should ask the two of us and our Betalina, the slowliest boat in

the Adriatic. This way nothing will slip past you. And even though Betalina knows very well what GPS, echo sounder or suchlike gadgets are, she fi nds out about the world on her own, through experience. Luckily enough, she still hasn’t decided to dive and check out the bottom. But what’s this old-fashioned story really about? Take a good look at yourselves and you’ll see... you’ve just swished past us on the sea as if we weren’t even there. We fi nally tried to put some sunscreen on when all of a sud-den a powerful wave hit the side of the boat and the thick substance shot out of the container and stayed glued to the side of the cockpit! The best ad for the sunscreen, believe me! We laughed our heads off , it was absolutely hilarious! You don’t get it, do you? You don’t under-stand what it’s like to wander around a bit, to sail away and enjoy the sea. You simply come to the coast and then swish over the sea as if you were skiing, so fastly that you hardly even touch the surface. The sea is for swimming, not for running. Even at the Olympics swimming compared to running is an enchanting slow motion experience. But you – you just swished by us like a Jadrolinija catamaran and skipped the entire Adriatic sea. And you even paid for it. And paid it well. Without getting any-thing in return. Be sensible! If you’re not ro-mantic, you can at least be rational. There’s no point in wasting all that time and money without taking a glance at Betalina that got stuck in some past romantic times. In short, speed down a bit, take your time, because time is all you have in this world! Try and just wonder around for a while, just swim. Don’t hurry skiing and swishing past. Otherwise you might miss about a billion precious drops which you so wildly waste on the imaginary trail of your status symbol. Status being merely a matter of perspective.

Tex and photo byElizabeta &

Mario Garber

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ND SAIL AWAY AGAIN, HOW TO SAVOUR THE SEA

SWIM, DON’T SKI!ON’T SKI!e Olympics swimming compared to running is an enchanting by us like a Jadrolinija catamaran and skipped the entire Without getting anything in return. Be sensible! If you’re not an at least be rational

KABAL

The Kabal point. The island of Hvar, the entrance to Stari Grad in an everlasting race with Issa over the award for the old-est town in Croatia. Everything starts with the ancient Greeks, you know, and Odysseus and Penelope. Sometimes it takes our Betalina as long as fi ve hoursto get from Split to Paiz. And when you pass the canal and the Ražanj lighthouse and come close to point Kabal nearer to Paiz, you can rest assured you’re getting near. There you can have a rest, catch a spider fi sh or two and have a light lunch and then proceed down the Stari Grad cove and you’re there.

ŠOLTA

This summer’s top destination is an is-land that the inhabitants of Split use when they want to ridicule someone: “May you end up on Šolta!”. But it’s quite the opposite, in fact. The island of Šolta is a choice, not a condemnation. While the open sea waves wash the southern side of the island, as if leafi ng through the most fascinating picture book you move from cove to cove, each unique in its own way, each deserving your atten-tion and respect, the quiet one, the deep or the scary one, the cruel one and the shallow one, the next is tame, then vast, the following is motherly protective, or the threatening one, and all other sorts, as you like it. There are three safe havens where you can sail in, Nečujam and Rogač on the north side and Masli-nica on the west side with islets in front of it and a brand new marina, the latest vogue this summer.

MAKARSKA

The Makarska Riviera with its little towns, such as Brela, Baška Voda, Baško Polje, Promajna, Krvavica, Bratuš, Tučepi and Podgora, all the way to Igrane and Drvenik, Zaostrog and Gradac, tightly packed between the sea and the Bio-kovo mountain chain towering above them, will witness a true tourist heat wave next summer. The project of Port authority for Split-Dalmatia county will provide Makarska with a breakwater which will protect the harbour from al-most any wind and make it possible for at least a hundred new boats and yachts to fi nd a secure mooring.

Stomorska

Feast on a sailing ship in the port of Makarska

It’s been long since Bol put his pebbled tongue out to the world, declared a holy war to the world, to global tourism, to wid-

er audiences! And spectators are left speech-less, breathless, in awe and amazement, so much so that it hurts because the word Bol actually means pain in Croatian. Bol is the true Croatian Oscar winning tourist destina-tion. The American Los Angeles Times rec-ognized it as one of the 40 most appealing destinations of the world. This spectacular pebbled beach, where the only constant thing is its change by the touch of winds and waves, sent Bol into the outer space. It is a true challenge to fi nd out its true charms and beauties because it is quite a typical Mediterranean town, a dense cluster of stone houses at the foot of the steep and unapproachable cliff s on the southern side of the island of Brač and where the highest peak with Bolska kruna and Vidova gora at 778 me-ters above sea level, this metaphorical roof of the Adriatic Sea, plunges fi ercefully down at an angle of nearly 90°, meandering like a snake between almost horizontally scattered vineyards. There are 1500 regular inhabitants in Bol which get swamped by the hords of tourists in the summer.

This spectacular pebbled beach, where the only constant thing is its change by the touch of winds and waves, sent

Bol into the outer space

AN EXCEPTIONAL PRICE The touristically insightful ones who were able to spot a tiny fl ash of the splendid future of their Bol in the world’s eyes claimed that this beauty wasn’t put there merely to break the record in quantity but to raise the qual-ity of the off er. Today everyone understands perfectly clear what it means when the Bol municipality principal Tihomir Marinković says Bol will soon be the sole privilege of those tourists who are able to pay the high price for the exceptional. – By the summer of 2014 Bol is going to turn into something quite diff erent. Albeit a small town, with the accomodation, catering and nautical off er it will resemble quite a big-ger, better place. The expansion of the har-bour and the construction of an additional one which will cater for the needs of nautical tourism are going to launch Bol to the still unconquered ground. At long last, the con-ditions will be met for the expansion of the

touristic pretensions of Bol in the direction of quality and not quantity. The Port Authority for the County, the chief port development investor and initia-tor in Split-Dalmatia County, initiated the Bol port construction project to meet the cur-rent touristic market demands. For the whole world would love to come to Bol. But how, if not even a random guest’s boat can’t fi nd a mooring? It’s exactly the intimacy and warmth of Bol that make it so enchanting, the sea on the one side, on the other Brač as a mountain towering over it, the highest mountain in the whole of the Adriatic. However, the question why this small town still hasn’t got a proper breakwater has been waiting to be asked for decades now. – We’re fi nally quite sure that better times are just around the corner. The plan for the construction and expansion of the Bol port

THE TOWN OF BOL IS BUILDING A BREAKWATER WITH 180 NEW BERTHS

PAINFULLY BEAUTIFULPAINFULLY BE

FUTURE PROJECTS PLANNED BY THE PORT AUT

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Bol

will develop through three stages – says Mr Tihomir Marinković. The new marina will have to be open for everyone. The new breakwater will protect the Bol port with its 180 berths, and all up until now almost no-body could moor in to stay.

180 BERTHS However, Mr Marinković is objective: – It doesn’t make much sense to be unre-alistic. If we manage to fi nish the paper and project work, by the year 2014 we could be ready for the new 180 moorings. The end of 2012 is coming near and our project will be doomed if we don’t pull up our sleeves next year. What matters is the right timing. Apart from the main breakwater which will help the existing small port develop into a safe haven, Bol will be given a series of other benefi ts. At the centre of the port there will be a gas station and the 30 metre long breakwater will protect the harbour from all kinds of winds, especially those dangerous ones like mistral, tramontane and the west winds. From the centre of the port 25 metres westward Bol will be expanded with a row of new berths for small cruise ships and excur-sion boats. – That’s the story of quality, says Mr Marinković. – We don’t need any of those huge cruisers because we couldn’t possi-

bly fi nd enough place for all those people. Mini-cruisers carrying 30 to 50 passengers and going on weekly cruises are our thing. Our clientele will be well off , and at the same time we will unburden the port which is overcrowded.

THE EXCLUSIVE STATUS This is a new breakthrough for Bol which has been waiting for years to come closer to the guests’ objective needs. Bol will be a place for the rich and for yachts, boats and sailboats that are looking for a place to relax, without asking for the price. – Of course an investment like this will entail bigger economic results. For the time being our off er comprises caff es, disco clubs that are open late into the night, restaurants for a wider clientele. At the moment we are achieving good results, and its been like that for years, but now we are making a leap for-ward, in fact we’re at a historical crossroads because Bol will not be available to every-one. Bol is a choice destination. The guests themselves will choose it. Bol has to reach an exclusive status, and in fact it has been that way for decades now.The project is quite complex and for now we’re talking about an investment worth around 80 million kunas but there is no de-tailed design for it yet. There will be a com-petition, and Bol wll surely play the role of a real tourist attraction.

PAINFULLY BEAUTIFULEAUTIFUL

THORITY FOR SPLIT-DALMATIA COUNTY

Written by Mario Garber

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Zlatni rat

View of the port of Bol

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Makarska and all of its partners are looking forward for the breakwa-ter to be constructed. And who are

these partners? Sumartin, the port of Selca on the southeastern tip of the island of Brač, could grow to be pretty much like Supe-tar which is almost a part of Split, given its strong “polyphonic” connections to Split. Not only does Sumartin have the potential of becoming a frequently visited port that connects the island of Brač to the parts of Dalmatia south of Split, but it can also grow into a mega-Sumartin where one sails in or-der to get faster to Bol not only from the Ma-karska riviera and the Dalmatian South but also from the Croatian northern parts, in fact from all over Europe.

MARKO OŽIĆ BEBEK’S OPTIMISM When the highway connects Makarska to Split, Šibenik, Zadar and Zagreb, along with Dubrovnik to the south and the Montenegro border, then it will, along with Supetar and Sumartin, become a much wanted port. The chief of Selca Ivica Škrpaca talks about this in our Port News explaining that, it is not the Sumartin port that, opposed to the general erroneous impression, has been closed due to the wind; it is Makarska that has been closed. Of course one could think diff erently. How-ever, it is Makarska that is one of the least protected ports. It has been marked that way even in the nautical charts. That’s why the yachtsmen avoid it, especially if they are not experienced professionals. And yet, this summer as well Makarska is fi lled by excur-sion boats, speedboats and yachts. However, it is common knowledge it could be even more loaded than it already is. However, lebićada, or garbinada as it is commonly called, the western summer winds, be it daily or during a storm, can cause

The construction of the Makarska breakwater the port will be protected from most of the dangerous winds

A BREAKWATER FOR A NEW MAKARSKAA BREAKWATER FOR A For years Makarska has been marked in nautical maps as an extremely dangerous port. The

construction of a 217 metre long breakwater will make the yachtsmen rush to Makarska which will soon become a completely diff erent town

great problems because the port in Makar-ska is completely unsheltered for this wind. The construction of the breakwater will cre-ate the safety conditions in this port in all sorts of weather. The Port authority for the County and its director Domagoj Maroević have launched a series of projects, initiatives and investments, including the project of a big breakwater with 110 moorings which is a huge operation. The story of the breakwater in Makarska has been a topic of discussion for at least 30 years. The same is with the hall which has been a topic for centuries, so to speak, and the project was being then relo-cated back and forth, but the hall seems to be impossible to get – says Marko Ožić Be-bek wittily. The point is, the breakwater for Makar-ska has always been the most important question and of course that such an impor-tant question will raise disagreements, but there’s also an additional problem – how to fi nd the means. The breakwater gives a wholy new status to Makarska in the world of yachtsmen and seamen, including the tourist aspect. These were the arguments of the Port authority of Split-Dalmatia County for an investment into a project which would thoroughly protect the port and upgrade its capacity with 110 new berths.

YACHT AND SAILBOAT ELITE When this new Makarska arises, there will no longer be those inveterate untrust-ing yachtsmen. A mooring in Makarska is a link to the world in all directions and in ev-ery way, for tourism, for the population, ex-istence and economy not only for Makarska but for everyone who will gravitate to it. – This big turn-around will be enough – says Marko Ožić Bebek. – We will no longer be marked on maps as a dangerously un-safe port. The eastern part of the port is ex-

tremely exposed to the winds and the waves which makes the port unappealing to the yachtsmen. Since we are a tourist-oriented town, this is a big disadvantage. All bigger yachts and excursion boats will be much saf-er in Makarska. Since Makarska is sustained by the catering business, we have to under-stand that a whole new era in the history of this town is on the way. Up until now in our catering business we have been oriented to-wards cafes and disco-clubs, mostly outdoor for larger gatherings because in the summer Makarska becomes a real tourism metropo-lis. The breakwater construction is thought to overwhelm Makarska with hords of nautical tourists, and the elite fl eet of yachts and sail-boats in the Makarska port is a guarantee for a better visit to the restaurants in Makarska. – Makarska is about to witness a real boom because all the caterers will adapt to the new clientele with exclusive restaurants. This is going to be a huge step forward for Makarska in economic terms. In the end, it will make living much calmer for the towns-people, with less noise and more profi t – says Ožić Bebek. Makarska as it is today cannot sell more than 100 kilograms of lobster, there are no such tourists, but both quantity and quality of tourism in Makarska will rise with the con-struction of the breakwater. – However, we’ll have to wait and see – says Ožić Bebek. – It will take time to fi nalize everything. The beginning of construction is impossible to expect before the end of the next year, which means that we could see the new Makarska in the summer of 2014 at best. At this moment we still don’t have the design. The Port authority is our big support but the overall procedure will be known only after the end of the try-out.

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A BREAKWATER FOR A NEW MAKARSKANEW MAKARSKAWritten by Andrija Križančić

A PROJECT BY THE NEMICO COMPANY

The author of the breakwater project in Makarska is Neno Mikulandra, an architect from Split with his company NEMICO and subcontractors. – Makarska decided to build the break-water three years ago, and everything started moving forward when the Port authority of the Split-Dalmatia county decided to fully support the project. And this is a good thing because, as you will see, with this new breakwater Makarska will be a completely diff erent town. According to the design, the break-water stretches along the eastern side of the Makarska port. Although it seems to be a completely closed bay, it is in fact completely open southward, and the biggest part of it is exposed to big waves and strong winds like tramontane, mis-tral and bura. – With this new breakwater the port will be completely protected – says Mi-kulandra. – It’s important to say that this will be a great piece of news for the yachtsmen, and we have also found the solution for the users of communal moorings not to be at a loss, both in the town port and in the port of the club “Arbun”. The breakwater will be a real attrac-tion, 217 metres long and turning to-wards the breakwater at the length of 80 metres. There will be 110 moorings for larger sailboats and yachts, and on the outer side of the breakwater there will be a beach and several spots for sun-bathing. Mikulandra highlights the im-portance of the fact that the new break-water will cause a boom for Makarska in the sense of the economic justifi cation and a step forward in the off er for tour-ists. – We made sure that the project kept a record of every ferry and boat that came to Makarska – says Mikulandra. – This will also be a gain for Makarska in the aesthetic sense. The plan is to tile the promenade with stone tiles 10 cm thick, along with the overall decor of the promenade.

Breakwater in Makarska, a dead new

look of the town, the vision of the

designer Neno Mikulandra

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Edo Šegvić, architect and author of the preliminary architectural design of the new Obala svete Terezije (St. Theresa Waterfront) in Rogač on the island of Šolta

An important segment of the Rogač port, constantly a possi-ble traffic bottleneck, is about to be expanded with a two-way road with a pedestrian zone to facilitate access to the ferry port. The existing 4 metre wide road will become a 5,5 metre wide two-way road with a 2 metre wide pedestrian sidewalk as a kind of a promenade by the sea, and a row of specially designed stone fence elements will separate and protect the

pedestrians from the traffic

Rogač is about to be given new looks with a new port. According to the con-tract between the Šolta municipality

and Prostor-Split and in agreement with the Port Authority of the Split-Dalmatia county, the preliminary architectural design of the new look of Obala svete Terezije (St. Theresa Waterfront) in Rogač on the island of Šolta will include the redesign of the total of 1000 square metres of coast in Rogač. An important segment of the Rogač port, constantly a possible traffi c bottleneck, is about to be expanded with a two-way road with a pedestrian zone to facilitate access to the ferry port. The existing 4 metre wide road will become a 5,5 metre wide two-way road with a 2 metre wide pedestrian sidewalk as a kind of a promenade by the sea, and a row of specially designed stone fence elements will separate and protect the pedestrians from the traffi c.

At the point where the expanded water-front meets the eastern pier a fl ag pole will be put up, a mast for the fl ag on a wide stone pedestal and a round stone column. At the bottom of the bay there is yet an-other narrow road by the churchyard stone fence, and the sea in this part is so shallow that the grass grows from the shallows. This part is also going to be redesigned. Apart from the expansion of the road and the side-walk, at the bottom of the bay a sort of a park will fi nd its place, a nice and cozy place with carob trees and benches on one side and a great sea view on the other. There will also be a fresh water fountain made of stone and

resembling one of the traditional containers for drawing water from a well. The existing part with the boat winch will be improved in order to facilitate the process of taking the boats out of the sea. The south-ern side of the Rogač bay will also be done up with the waterfront or riva fully equipped

ROGAČ AND ITS NEW ATTIREROGAČ AND ITSport news look The island of Šolta, waterfront in Rogač

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ROGAČ AND ITS NEW ATTIRES NEW ATTIRE

for the mooring of boats, electricity and wa-ter outlets included. This particular part of the Rogač riva is going to be done up with the stone blocks of suitable thickness and a special surface treatment. The unique atmosphere of the new Rogač riva will be enhanced by a row of modern street lights.

When a ship docks in Rogač

Beach in Rogač

COAST CHALLENGE

LITTLE BIG DRVENIKLITTLE BIG D

Written by Andrija Križančić

It’s easy for you to be Robinson Crusoe and cheer with all your might that Veli and Mali Drvenik never taste the blessing of run-

ning water, electricity, roads, ferries, mobile phones, internet, a forest of aerials, traffi c lights, signals... And all that for you to have a few weeks’ rest in an unkempt or nobly un-touched scenery.

For you it’s just a fl ert. Both with Veli and Mali Drvenik. And what are they supposed to do for the rest of the autumn, winter and spring days, waiting for you to be their short-time witness of the fact that his – “au-

A special pier for ferries in Trogir for the islands of Veli Drvenik and Mali Drvenik is going to be built a er the project by the company Obala

Mali Drvenik and Veli Drvenik are no longer a Robinson’s paradise, and it’s quite likely that soon enough even cruise ships will head that way. The ferry port and harbour Trogir-Soline are a

necessity for both the local people and the tourists

tochtonous untouched nature” is indeed a real heaven on Earth and better than the internet. Surely it can’t remain like that tomorrow, and the day after... All such islands will slowly become part of the system. There’s no doubt that very soon Veli and Mali Drvenik might become one of the most popular destina-tions for sailing in on all kinds of boats.

PORT TROGIR-SOLINE Ferries for Veli and Mali Drvenik still belong to the generation of smaller passenger boats and their appearance and the overall image

refl ect the close and romantic relationship with the age of smaller boats and ferryboat-oldtimers whose value increases thanks to nostalgia. At the intersection where the two eras meet it’s easy to predict that one day there’ll even be cruisers sailing towards the two Drveniks. And because of that the exact place in Trogir where the ferry to Drvenik and back will dock is not insignifi cant. Due to the construction of the new marina between Trogir and Seget Donji the ferries to Drvenik had to be relo-cated to the beginning of the riva in Trogir where they of course shouldn’t be: they get in the way of passers-by and are far from traffi c. That’s how the project of the ferry pier at the new location of Soline, west to the city centre and riva in Trogir, and bordering with the municipality of Seget came to life. “Obala”, a fi rm from Split that specialized in marine projects under its manager, architect Ivica Galasso, enveloped a thorough and important project that would result in the ferry pier, that is a port open for public trans-portation Trogir-Soline. Apart from a ferry pier the project includes the construction of a part of the port for communal berths. In this way the existing improvised berths will be put in order. The project also includes safety on the docks and berths which stretch for 300 metres. The project also includes a traffi c regula-tion plan in the future Trogir-Soline port, along with the accompanying buildings.

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Ivica Galasso

LITTLE BIG DRVENIKDRVENIK The newly planned pier is designed for fer-ries such as “Hanibal Lucić” that now meet the need for the traffi c for the islands of Drvenik Veli and Drvenik Mali. This part of the coast is exposed to the south wind and mistral so everything necessary for the safe stop for ferries and other boats was planned with great care and consideration.

FERRIES AND BOATS In the part of the harbour with the com-munal berths fi ve moles will be changed for smaller boats, along with a promenade and the accompanying facilities which will be adjusted to the needs of the ferry pier and the communal berths. This refers specifi cally to the parking lot and the access to the ferry, the boarding and so on. The days when ferry lines with Veli and Mali Drvenik were a rare treasure are long gone now. Galasso’s “Obala” follows life’s footsteps, in the times when Stari Grad on the island of Hvar needs to be prepared to accept the cruise ships, or when the people of the won-derful islands from Trogir to Vinišće have to be enabled to have a safe connection to the coast.

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Ferry pier project outside Trogir “Grand Canal”

Scenes from Little and Big Drvenik

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September 9, Our Lady of Prizidnica

Slatine on the Island of Čiovo

The festivity of Our Lady of Prizidnica it is on Sunday, September 9. It is a traditional cel-ebration which gather all residents of Slatine but not only them. It is always interesting walk to church, only to enjoy or take a bath on the beach below it, imagine now during the celebration! The church was built by Juraj Stoidražić on 1546, in the desert, on the cliff s above the sea. There was a monastery until 1852.

When the Saints Go Marching When the Saints Go inPučišća

Čiovo, Our Lady of Prizidnica

Marina in Gradac

Kaštel Kambelovac

September 30, Saint Jeronim

Pučišća, Kaštel Gomilica

Patron saint of all Dalmatians is Saint Je-ronim, Jere. Residents of Split especially like the little church dedicated to Saint Jere on Marjan hill, near the cave where, by legend, the saint lived (in the fourth century). But the special celebrations are in Pučišća on the is-land of Brač and in Kaštel Gomilica. Saint Jere is their protector. There is no card of Pučišća without the beautiful bell tower of their cathedral (built on 1576). St. Jere lived in Bethlehem for 34 his last years and he died on 420. He is best known for the monumental work “Vulgata”, transla-tion of the Bible from Greek into Latin.

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When the Saints Go Marching Marching ininSeptember 29, Saint Michael

(Mihovil)

Gradac, Kaštel Kambelovac

Saint Michael is the patron of Gradac in Makarska Riviera and of Kaštel Kambelovac nearby Split. Who wouldn’t want such a pa-tron, an archangel with sword in hand!? On the day of celebration it is always crowded in Gradac, in the church of Saint Michael and, of course, around the medieval church on the hillside of Kozjak above Kaštela. Saint Michael is protector of police and army, paratroopers, fi ghter pilots and radi-ologists. October 2, Saint Stephen

(Stjepan)

Hvar

Saint Stephen The First, pope of the third century (he died on 257 in Rome) is the pa-tron of the town Hvar on the island of Hvar. On their patron day Hvar residents put on festivals and it is offi cially all around. Hvar cathedral is, of course, dedicated to Saint Stephen and built on thirteenth century in the main town square. In cathedral are kept the bones of the other Hvar protector – Saint Prosper.

Hvar, Križna luka

Kaštel Gomilica

Written by Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

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It’s end of the summer so we decided to leave the islands and take a tour around coast/land parts of Dalmatia. On the coast

parts of Dalmatia the season lasts longer than on the islands but we visited a few tra-ditional restaurants that work in the winter also. If tourists could smell and taste both food and ambient that residents enjoy in quite, cold days and nights they will be jeal-ous as hell!

Feet in the sea First of three places that our gastro guru liked the most on his journey was restau-rant „Frenky“ in Seget Donji. That’s beautiful small coast village that you’ll fi nd next to Tro-gir on the west side of town. More precisely, when you’re going out of town there is no more than few minutes driving until you’re there! Than, all you have to do is park the car and level down on foot for few more minutes to the bottom of the cove and you will fi nd „Frenky“, the restaurant where you can take a seat on the table and check menu while dip-ping your feet in the sea. If you’re so lucky and you are travelling on the boat, you could tied it for the table from which you’re eating the

DALMATIA ON THE PLATEGORAN ALBINI KAMANJO, CULINARY EXPERT WHO HAS COOKED FOR PRESIDENTS AND PRIME MINISTERS OF CROATIA

Eating is a MustEating is aGastro expert travelled through Dalmatia searching for you for the fi nest restaurants. He is

like a dinner or lunch skipper who is guiding you through special fl avours

dinner… restaurant is really beautiful, there are two pools with sea water for lobsters and shells. Fish that is served there is caught in the sea in front of the restaurant, and behind it there’s big fi eld with vegetables and fruits, that must be one domestic healthy meal!

Above Krilo What an adventure! I was driving by the coast from Split to south. Like always, one vil-lage took more of my attention than other. Krilo Jesenice, nice little village on the coast maybe 25 minutes driving from Split. That is unbelievable how many old sailing ships are there, one sail after another, beautiful! It’s just strange how, this time, the story was on the other side of the road, little bit uphill, where there’s just few families living in old and amazingly beautiful stone houses. Hid-den between many houses is one special. It was a restaurant about 30 years ago, it was great and famous, but now, it’s closed, sorry, it’s not working any more. But! It will be, and it will work in one very special way. Oh, let’s start again. To fi nd that magic place you need to pass Krilo Jesenice, after two minutes you are in Sumpetar, the village where you have

Tavern is prepared, Krilo Jesenice, the old

village

Eating is a Musta Must

to turn left and go uphill until you see the church (that will also take just few minutes) you have to go further by the road on the left side of the church and drive another 300 meters where stands a small chapel. That is the place to park your car and go upstairs for about 20 meters and you found the Dal-matian traditional restaurant „Kamanjo“ that will in near future work on some strange ways. The owner who opened the restaurant 30 years ago is Goran Albini, your guide on these pages.

With food in restaurant That restaurant is closed a long time ago, now there lives my son Bartul Albini Ka-manjo Junior who, like his father, is a great cook! But, he likes a special type of nutrition full of vegetables and seeds, so, it’s not a nor-mal cuisine for a restaurant. And he got an idea that he could repair the old house a little bit, make it nice, clean and beautiful – same like many years ago – and open it for people, of course. It’s just one thing… people could bring their own food, fi sh that they caught or vegetables they pick in the backyard of the restaurant in Bartul’s fi eld. So, people will come with food that they want to eat and the cook will cook it for them. Very simple, nicer than dinner at home and cheaper than in normal restaurant. Isn’t it great!

Turn towards Biokovo If you’re travelling far in the south, don’t forget this advice. Believe me, turn left to-wards Biokovo cause Opačak is waiting for you! “Opačak” is a restaurant in Tučepi Gornji. From the terrace you have the most beauti-ful view in the world! You can see Pelješac, Hvar and Brač, islands not very far away… When we’re talking about food, restaurant “Opačak” off ers you all traditional foods. Do-mestic, home grown and very healthy food. While eating, you can enjoy in Dalmatian tra-ditional music. Restaurant “Opačak” can be proud for being three years in a row one of 30 best restaurants on the Adriatic coast ac-cording to tourist guides.

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Seget Donji

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Palagruža had been inhabited long be-fore the famous lighthouse was built. This has been proven by the archaeo-

logical fi ndings from the Greek and Ro-man period, not to mention the prehistory. Among other things, a glass has been found that dates back in the year 520 A.D. and has the grafi tti inscription of Diomedes’ name and the image of a seated bearded god in the nude. This is the primary material evi-dence of the god Diomedes’ worship in the Adriatic. Mr Kirigin emphasizes the fact that Palagruža is the island of Diomedes. The jour-neys of Diomedes, one of the most famous Greek heroes, are not as known in detail after the Trojan war as are Odysseus’ (or Ulysses, as he was known in Roman myths), but what is known is that he, persecuted by Aphrodite’s vengeance, had sailed the Adriatic. He died when a very old man, according to one of the stories he was killed by our Il-lyrian ancestors – the natives. The archaeo-logical fi ndings and a careful study of the writings prove that Diomedes died and was buried on Palagruža and not on the Italian Tremiti islands with the island of San Nicola on which Diomedes’ grave has been marked recently.

THE RACES OF THE

FISHING BOAT FALKUŠA Diomedes had been worshipped on Palagruža a whole century before the inhab-itants of the Aegean island of Paros founded Faros, today Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, the fi rst urban settlement on the Croatian soil. For purposes of comparison, sailing from Gargano to Palagruža lasted for six hours, and it took six hours to sail from Komiža to Palagruža as well. With no wind for the sails, the people of Komiža used to row for fi fteen hours to get to Palagruža. The fi shermen of Komiža would yearly salt between 56 and 112 tons of fi sh. In or-der for each fi sherman to have equal starting odds, a regatta of a sort would be organized. The fi shermen in their boats, the traditional gajetas, would line up before the Kaštel (cita-del) on the Komiža waterfront and start their journey towards Palagruža at the sound of the Kaštel canon at 7 A.M. The fastest boat to sail those 40 miles to Palagruža would get to choose a better fi shing spot. Sardines in the summer, lobsters in the winter. This was the practice until 1936. In order to be able to sail and fi sh out

on the open sea, the Komiža fi shermen took a regular gajeta and readjusted it into a falkuša, a boat perfect for fi shing on the high seas. The more fi sh was caught, the more falkas would be added, a special con-struction which would be put on the sides of the boat in order to increase the transport capacity. Ther eused to be up to a hundred groups of fi shermen around Palagruža but there were never any quarrels, indeed they would help each other out and everyone re-spected a high moral code. Thats the origin of the saying: “Whatever Palagruža�gave, it took back”. A record catch of a gajeta was one by the owner Jovanino Marinković Dero who caught and salted 40 tons of sardines in 1909. In the sixteenth century a thousand sardines could be sold for 1 golden ducat or cekin (the Croatian word for zecchino, the golden ducat from the Venetian mint), and had Dero lived back then, he would have earned 800 ducats. In those times a Venetian aristocratic family’s yearly income was around 60 ducats so it is fairly easy to imagine what a wealthy man Dero could have become. But he did not. The Palagruža fi sh made only the noblemen and the government rich, never the fi shermen.

Palagruža is the Island of Diomedes. His journeys are not as known in detail as are Odys-Palagruža is the Island of Diomedes. His journeys are not as known in detail as are Odys-

seus’ (or Ulysses, as he was known in Roman myths), but what is known is that he, perse-seus’ (or Ulysses, as he was known in Roman myths), but what is known is that he, perse-

cuted by Aphrodite’s vengeance, had sailed the Adriatic. The archaeological fi ndings and cuted by Aphrodite’s vengeance, had sailed the Adriatic. The archaeological fi ndings and

a careful study of the writings prove that Diomedes died and was buried on Palagruža and a careful study of the writings prove that Diomedes died and was buried on Palagruža and

not on the Italian Tremiti islands (Isole Tremiti, an archipelago in the Adriatic Sea, north of not on the Italian Tremiti islands (Isole Tremiti, an archipelago in the Adriatic Sea, north of

the Gargano Peninsula).the Gargano Peninsula).

Branko Kirigin, a noted architect from Split, author of the book Palagruža – the Island of Branko Kirigin, a noted architect from Split, author of the book Palagruža – the Island of

Diomedes, for Port News supplementDiomedes, for Port News supplement

ON THE OCCASION OF PUBLISHING A UNIQUE BOOK ON PALAGRUŽA, BY AUTHOR BRANKO KIRIGIN, PhD (2)

PORT NEWS SUPPLEMENT

“Whatever Palagruža Gave,“Whatever Palagruža Gave It Took Back”

Magnifi cently pebble beach on Palagruža

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WITH HIS PANTS DOWNWhat’s interesting is that this is a small island but there are so many toponyms, as much as 80 on Vela (big) Palagruža, 40 on Mala (small) Palagruža, and 10 on Galijula, the southern-most point of the Adriatic. Each place, each spot had to be named because there was no other way to describe or fi nd a particular fi shing point in the age before the compass or GPS. The name Palagruža originates in the Greek word pelagos (open sea), the etymol-ogy of the name for the shallows Pupak (na-vel) is obvious, but there are also points like Mondefust, Pulentino, Konfi n, Salamandrija... Pol Forane got its name after an accident in which fi shermen from Hvar died when a huge cliff collapsed and fell on them, pos-sibly because of an earthquake, just as they were about to sit down and dine. Only a young boy survived because he had been sent to fetch water from Salamandrija. After that the people of Hvar handed Palagruža to the Komiža inhabitants. At Pol Klobuk (klo-buk = hat), not far from Pol Forane, a cliff fell and killed Centoto Mardešić Foka as he was about to “lower his pants” (go to the toi-let). Pol kriz (križ = cross) is a stone cross put up in memory of an unfortunate fi sherman from Vis who had been thrown into the sea by a powerful gust of jugo (southern wind) and was never found. Indeed, it seems that noone of those who died on Palagruža died of natural causes. And a lot of people died, just as the depths hide many wrecks of ships sunk in the sea around Palagruža. Pope Alexander III (the one who put down the cornerstone for Notre Dame in Paris) set out on a journey with numerous entourage and a fl eet of 13 galleys from Ven-ice to Vieste, a small town on Gargano, and got to Palagruža on March 9, 1177. Due to bad weather some of the ships had to sail back and the remaining ones were stuck on Palagruža. Toponyms like Popina njiva (Pope’s fi elds), Popin brig (Pope’s hill), and

Pol popino (under the Pope or Pope’s prop-erty) on Mala Palagruža serve as a memento of this 12th century event.

A GUIDE MARK, A NATIONAL

PARK The life on the Adriatic started, of course, in prehistory, but it was the Greeks who marked the beginning of historical signifi -cance of the Adriatic. On the 480 mile long journey from Korfu to Adria Palagruža has al-ways been halfway from both as a fi rm guide mark for sailors, explorers and pirates. Both Adriatic coasts can be seen from Palagruža; 220 diff erent kinds of plants grow there, and its sea is the home for 321 sorts of algae. It deserves to become a national park and a place where the international scientifi c and research centre, The Lighthouse of Science about the Mediterranean, will be founded. We join Mr Branko Kirigin in the wish that Palagruža becomes what it deserves.

THE LONGEST WAR One of the longest lasting confron-tations in these parts was the one be-tween the independent fi shermen who used the traditional cast nets and those who used bottom trawls, and these were fi shing for the noblemen. The bottom trawls were more profi table and thus favoured by the noblemen who banned the use of regular nets by law and even introduced cruel penalties for disobedi-ence of that law. This fi shermen’s war lasted for centuries and there were some casualties. The war fi nally ended in 1808 when the Austrian provediteur general for Dalmatia Vincenzo Dandolo let the fi shermen of Komiža freely fi sh for sardines with their cast nets, but only around the islands of Palagruža and Svetac (where bottom trawls could not be used anyway).

“Whatever Palagruža Gave,e, It Took Back” It Took Back”

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Sensations of Central DalmatiaSenKaštel Gomilica Stomorska

Vis, Kut

Komiža

Maslinica

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For this We Have no WordSensations of Central Dalmatiansations of Central Dalmatia

Hvar

Rogač

Vis, sailing boat to Green cawe

Omiš