Tajikistan Tourism Product Portfolio

for International Travel Trade

Developed on behalf of the Central Asia Invest Project

Strengthening Tourism Business Intermediary Organizations for Sustainable Economic Development in Tajikistan

This project is funded by the European Union (Central Asia Invest Program)

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Introduction Tajikistan – an undiscovered and exciting tourist destination Tajikistan, located in the heart of Asia, is currently developing its tourist infrastructure to make available to the international market its wealth of unspoilt natural beauty, its ancient history and the unrivalled hospitality of its people. Independent since the break-up of the Soviet Union in 1991, Tajikistan is poor in natural resources but rich in tourist attractions: it offers extraordinary opportunities for adventure and eco-cultural tourism with untouched landscapes, archaeological treasures and attractive itineraries for walking and trekking with charming homestays along the way. Tajikistan was marked by conflict in the immediate post-Soviet period but is today one of the most stable and secure countries in Central Asia.

A number of hotels of international standard have recently opened in the capital Dushanbe and elsewhere, and local tour operators are actively seeking partners in developed countries for organising tours. Tajikistan is represented at the ITB Berlin 2010. Turkish Airlines, Baltic Air and Somon Air fly from European airports to Dushanbe; there are also connections from Moscow and St. Petersburg. The visa regime has recently been liberalised for tourists.

Sharing borders with Afghanistan in the south, Uzbekistan in the west, Kyrgyzstan in the north and China in the east, 93% of Tajikistan’s territory is mountainous, and more than half is over 3,000m; it includes three of the highest mountains in the world: Ismoil Somoni Peak (7,495m), Ibn Sina Peak (also known as Lenin Peak - 7,135m) and Korzhenevskaya Peak (7,105m). The two principal ranges, the Pamirs and the Alay Mountains, give rise to many beautiful streams, rivers and lakes. The longest mountain glacier in the world, the Fedchenko, is in the Pamirs.

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Since time immemorial, the territory of Tajikistan has been a cross-roads for the passage of the many different peoples that occupied and controlled Central Asia. Cimmerian and Scythian tribes, several Persian dynasties, Macedonian/Greek armies under Alexander the Great, Parthians, Bactrians, Kushans, Huns, Hephtalites, Mongol hordes, Nestorian Christians, Arabs, Russians, even British - all left their mark on the region. Tajikistan was on several of the itineraries called collectively the Silk Road and was also the theatre of the closing episodes of Anglo-British imperial rivalry known as the Great Game. The Tajiks are an Indo-European people and their language and culture have their roots in Persian civilisation. Many of the most famous poets, philosophers and scientists of the Persian language from Central Asia (Khorasan, Bukhara, Samarkand, Balkh and other locations) are claimed by Tajiks as their own: Abu Abdullah Jafar ibn Mohammad Rudaki (858-941), Hakim Abu'l-Qasim Firdawsi (935-1020), Abu Rayhan Muhammad ibn Ahmad Biruni (973-1048), Abu Ali Sina (c. 980-1037 - known in the West as Avicenna), Nasir Khusraw (1004-1088), Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Balkhi (1207-1273 - known in the West as Rumi). Tajikistan’s literacy rate of 99.5% is one of the highest in the world. With funding from the European Union, the European Centre for Ecological and Agricultural Tourism (ECEAT) is supporting two community-based tourism projects in the Pamirs in the east and the Zerafshan valley in the north. The support includes training and basic equipment for service providers such as tour operators and homestays, and websites and information centres for tourists. The projects emphasise sustainability and ecological awareness. Several tour operators from these regions will be at ITB Berlin 2010. With a view to facilitating contacts with partners in developed countries, ECEAT has prepared on the following pages a “generic” product portfolio describing some of the most attractive tours being offered by the Tajik tour operators in the Pamirs and Zerafshan.

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Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION 2

TAJIKISTAN – AN UNDISCOVERED AND EXCITING TOURIST DESTINATION 2

TAJIKISTAN COUNTRY PROFILE 5

1. TAJIKISTAN AND THE PAMIRS 8

1.1 INTRODUCTION 8 1.2 ITINERARIES IN THE PAMIRS 10 1.3 OVERVIEW OF ITINERARIES IN THE PAMIRS AND MAP 12 1.4 DESCRIPTION OF ITINERARIES IN THE PAMIRS 14 1) DAY TOURS FROM KHOROG 14 2) SHORT AFGHAN TOUR (3-7 DAYS) 17 3) MODULAR TOURS TO ISHKASHIM AND THE WAKHAN (2-6 DAYS) 18 4) WAKHAN CIRCUIT TOURS 22 5) BARTANG VALLEY (VARIOUS OPTIONS FROM 2 TO 10 DAYS) 25 6) LAKE SAREZ (5 DAYS) 26 7) GLACIER TREK (6 DAYS) 27 8) HIGH PLATEAU YURT TOURS FROM MURGHAB 28

2. TAJIKISTAN AND ZERAFSHAN 32

2.1 INTRODUCTION 32 2.2 ITINERARIES IN ZERAFSHAN 34 2.3 OVERVIEW OF ITINERARIES IN ZERAFSHAN AND MAP 35 2.4 DESCRIPTION OF ITINERARIES IN ZERAFSHAN 37 1) DUSHANBE - CITY TOUR & DAY TRIPS 37 2) PENJIKENT - CITY TOURS AND DAY TRIPS 39 3) ISKANDERKUL LAKE 42 4) YAGNOB VALLEY 45 5) UPPER ZERAFSHAN & KUSHISTONE MASTСHOH 48 FANN MOUNTAINS 51 6) SEVEN LAKES (VARIOUS OPTIONS FROM 2 - 5 DAYS) 51 7) KULIKALON AND ALAUDDIN LAKES 53 8) NORTHERN TAJIKISTAN & THE SILK ROAD CITIES 56

3. PROFILES OF TAJIK INCOMING AGENTS 57

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Tajikistan Country Profile Full name: Tajikistan Capital city: Dushanbe Largest city: Dushanbe (pop. 580,800) Official Language: Tajik (Russian is also widely used) National languages: Uzbek, Farsi, Kyrgyz, Parya, Pashto, Sanglechi-Ishkashimi,

Shughni, Wakhi, Yagnobi, Yazgulyam Population: 7, 211, 884 million Religions: Sunni Muslim 85%, Shi'a Muslim 5%, other 10% Government: Republic Currency: Somoni (TJS) Exchange rate: €1 = 2.45 (TJS) Climate: Subtropical, and semiarid, with some desert areas. The

summers are hot and winters are mild; semiarid to polar in Pamir Mountains. South Western lowlands 23° to 30° C in July, Eastern Pamirs 5°- 10°C in July and -15° to -20°C in January

International Airport: Dushanbe Airport in Dushanbe Passport/Visa: Only citizens of Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Belarus

do not need a visa to travel to Tajikistan. Foreign citizens have to apply to the nearest embassy or consulate for a visa. Passport valid for at least three months longer than the validity of the requested visa is required by all foreign nationals. A letter of invitation verified by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Tajikistan is no longer required from an inviting party. Countries where Tajikistan has diplomatic representation currently include Austria, China (PR), Germany, Iran and Turkey.

Diseases: Malaria (All areas <2,000 m (<6,562 ft), hepatitis A, rabies,

poliomyelitis and tick-borne encephalitis. Vaccinations are highly recommended before travelling.

Time zone: GMT + 5 Safety: Relatively safe, however, there is a general threat from

terrorism in Tajikistan. Attacks could be indiscriminate, including in places frequented by expatriates and foreign travellers.

Hotel: In Dushanbe, there are a small number of large hotels. Most

are ex-Soviet era and tend to be over priced and in poor condition. There are a couple of newly built hotels offering western standards of accommodation for around from $70 to $220 per room. There are home stays in the Pamir region, around Murgab, for around $10 per person per night you get a comfortable bed in a family home. The facilities are basic, i.e. no running water and an outside toilet, but guests can expect comfortable clean rooms, good local food, and a very warm welcome.

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Food and drinks: A typical Tajikistan meal is a sumptuous affair with appetizers and soups, exquisite preparations of meat and specially cooked rice. Many indigenous soups are also prepared in Tajikistan. Tea is the most common drink among the inhabitants of Tajikistan, although many restaurants also serve wine, beer and vodka.

Hospitals: There are hospitals, clinics and health centres throughout the country.

Emergency numbers: 02 - Police

03 – Ambulance When to go: The best time to travel to Tajikistan is in autumn (September to November) and spring (April to June). Hence, one should visit the place at this time. If one wants to participate in the Navrus festival, then they should visit Tajikistan in March. If Pamirs is the key attraction of Tourism in Tajikistan, then the only convenient time is September. Infrastructure: Airport: The country has 59 airports, 14 having paved concourses, though not all are operational due to lack of maintenance. The largest airports are in Dushanbe, Khudzhand, and Kulob. Tajikistan airlines fly extensively to and from several national and international destinations from its hub at Dushanbe Airport. It flies to and from Europe, China, Middle East, Russia, East and South West Asia. Turkish Airlines flies to Dushanbe from Istanbul twice a week. Somon Air is now flying once a week to and from Dubai, and everyday to and from Moscow with a small modern fleet of Boeing 737-800 and 737-400 aircraft. On 2 June, 2009 air Baltic commenced twice-weekly flights to Dushanbe from Riga. Somon Air are IATA registered Flights in Tajikistan may be cancelled at short notice or substantially delayed. Overloading on local flights is not uncommon. Road network: a network of 13,000 kilometers (8,100 miles) of roads, mostly paved—though not in the best of conditions—covers large parts of the country. Despite the extensive road system, however, there is only 1 road linking Dushanbe with Khudzhand, the second biggest city in the country, which is located in the northern Leninabad region. Because climatic conditions often make this land route unusable, plans are underway to build the 13-kilometer (8.1-mile) Anzob tunnel. Some parts of the roads may be seasonally impassable. During the winter (October to March), three of the four main roads from the capital and the southwest of the country (east to Khorog via Khalaikum, northeast to Osh via the Garm valley, and north to Khojand via the Anzob Pass and Ayni) are all closed by snow. The only way of reaching these areas is through Uzbekistan. The road between Osh (in Kyrgyzstan) and Khorog is kept open all year and traverses one of the most beautiful and unspoilt regions in the world; the Pamir Mountains. Recent political and economic troubles have meant that road maintenance has been widely neglected.

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Bus: there are services between the major towns when the roads are open. In the south, buses go to Kurgan-Tyrube and Kulyab and as far down as Pyanj and Ayvadaz. Buses to the east reach only around 100km (60 miles), as far as Komsomolabad. Information on timetables and fares can be found at the bus station or autovokzal. Taxi: these and chauffeur-driven cars for hire can be found in all major towns. Many are unlicensed and travellers are advised to agree a fare in advance. Officially marked taxis are safe, but sharing with strangers should be avoided. As many of the street names have changed since independence, it is also advisable to ascertain both the old and the new street names when asking directions. Car hire: self-drive car hire is currently not available. Other transportation: there are only three railway lines in Tajikistan: one leading south from Dushanbe through Kurgan-Tyube and Shaartuz to the Uzbek/Afghan border at Termez; one that leads due south from Dushanbe, through Kurgan-Tyube to Tugul on the Afghan border; and one in the northern region which runs from Samarkand, through Khojand to the Fergana Valley. A branch from Kulyab to Kurgan-Tyube is currently under construction. Tourist Attractions: Tajikistan offers the tourists opportunities for alpine mountaineering, rock climbing, hiking, horse or camel riding, adventure sports, historical exploration, cultural experiences or simply relaxing among dramatic mountains and lakes. Additionally, it has much to offer especially to the independent traveller in search of remote locations and unusual cultural experiences. Most enticing for the mountaineer are the three giants of the Pamirs that the country is well known for: Peak Somoni, Peak Lenin and Peak Korzhenevskaya. For alpine climbing, high level walking tours and lakeland scenery on the Fann mountains, just across the border from Samarkand, are especially popular.

The populated valleys have a rich history. In former times, Tajikistan was at the crossroads of Asia and four major Silk Road routes passed through the Pamir and Fann mountains. There is evidence of the Sogdian (Zoroastrian) civilisation, as well as Buddhist, Hindu and Christian remains. More recently, the country's Islamic history has produced some fine examples of Central Asian Islamic art and architecture. And of course the Soviet period of the 20th century has left its mark in architecture, art such as the huge statue of Lenin overlooking the city of Khujand, and engineering achievements like Nurek Hydroelectric Dam (the tallest artificial dam in the world). Current Market: Receipts are driven mostly by domestic business tourists’ spending, which accounts for the bulk of tourism expenditure in Tajikistan. There is also an increase in international tourists.

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1. Tajikistan and the Pamirs

1.1 Introduction

The Pamirs, located principally in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) in eastern Tajikistan, are one of the highest mountain ranges in the world, containing peaks over 7000m. The territory comprises a large high plateau area (Murghab district in the east) and several deep valleys running west into the Panj river (in antiquity known as the Oxus; in local languages “panj” means “five” and the name Panj is said to come from the fact that the five main Pamir valleys feed into it). GBAO shares frontiers with China in the east, Kyrgyzstan in the north and Afghanistan in the west and south. The Pamirs from the air The region is inaccessible to road traffic for as much as six months in winter, and was considered during the Soviet period as a strategic border area to which special permission was required for travel. It is therefore very much “virgin territory” for tourism, with little relevant infrastructure. As such, it combines extraordinary attractions for adventure and eco-tourism with untouched high-altitude landscapes and many opportunities for walking and trekking. The Pamirs were on one of the southern branches of the Silk Road and possess fortresses and other monuments bearing witness to the traffic of goods and ideas (petroglyphs, Buddhist monasteries, shrines and caravanserais). The “Great Game” was played in the Pamirs. The population of GBAO comprises a minority of ethnic Kyrgyz on the high plateau (originally nomadic but today mainly sedentary) and several ancient Iranian ethnic groups occupying the valleys and lower lying areas: their hospitality is legendary, as is their love of music and dancing. During the Soviet period, because of their isolation, Pamiris were able to preserve their religion and culture while benefiting from the remarkable social achievements of the USSR (99% literacy and universal health care). They practice a very tolerant form of Islam. As a result of community-based tourism projects implemented by the Aga Khan Development Network and the French NGO ACTED and funded by the governments of Switzerland, Canada, the European Union and other international agencies such as The Christensen Fund, a very basic infrastructure combining a tourist information centre, homestays, trained guides and handicraft production has been put in place and a number of hotels and local tour operators have started business. The aim of the projects currently being implemented is to increase rural livelihoods – village organisations are supported and part of the fees received by homestay owners are returned to a village fund. A few inbound tour operators in Europe (Switzerland, France, Germany and others) have begun to offer the Pamirs as part of their catalogue. The region is currently attractive mainly to tourists willing to accept a certain amount of discomfort in search of exceptional experiences.

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Flights to the Tajik capital Dushanbe originate in Riga (Baltic Air), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines) and Frankfurt (Somon Air); Dushanbe can also be reached from St. Petersburg and Moscow. Access to Khorog, the capital of the Tajik Pamirs is by small plane (Yak 40 or Antonov); all flights originate in Dushanbe and are only operated when there is no cloud cover. The alternative road journey takes approximately 14 hours in a 4x4 and offers en route spectacular views of the Panj river and of high mountain passes. The road journey can be broken with attractive homestays in a relaxing natural environment. There is a developed road network throughout the Tajik Pamirs, extending up to the furthest villages at the head of the valleys and on the high plateau; it was built during the Soviet period and has not been much maintained since independence in 1991 (N.B. the “Pamir Highway” between the Pamirs and Kyrgyzstan was actually started in the 19th century during the “Great Game”). Access to sites and sights is therefore easy, although roads are bumpy and dusty. The isolation of the region is a risk factor in case of serious illness or accident but the Pamirs are untouched by unrest in neighbouring regions. There are no accurate statistics on numbers of tourists visiting the Pamirs. A recent statement by the Deputy Chairman of the Tajik State Committee for Youth, Sports and Tourism claims that 16,000 tourists visited Tajikistan in 2008, of which 3,000 visited GBAO. The potential is much higher. Tourism in the Pamirs is far from self-sustaining and is as yet a fragile flower, but one that is destined to grow in importance as one of the only available sources of long-term sustainable income for the local population.

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1.2 Itineraries in the Pamirs The itineraries proposed below are for combined jeep/hiking tours. Specially tailored (and more arduous) trekking tours, with qualified guides, incorporating various destinations described below are easily organised on request (see maps in the Annex and list of trekking routes and details on www.pamirs.org/trekking.htm). Longer hikes can be organised within some of the itineraries described below, with tented accommodation in lieu of Homestays according to visitors’ wishes. In all village locations, traditional musical entertainment can be organised with local musicians and dancers on request. N.B. In the Pamirs “a cup of tea” (Yak piula choy) is understood to mean a sit-down meal.

An informal musical gathering “Yak piula hoy” - Photo Surat Toimastov

A musical picnic in the botanical garden

The itineraries assume arrival from Dushanbe by air (tickets can be arranged). Road travel from Dushanbe can also be organised, with one or two interesting overnight stays and sightseeing en route. Given the uncertainty about flights in adverse weather conditions, the road option may be preferred by some tour organisers (add 2 or 3 days to the itineraries described below). All the tours described below, since they include overnight stays in local homes, provide exceptional opportunities for getting to know the people of the Pamirs and their culture, traditions, legends, music and religion.

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Note on traditional Pamiri houses: One of the most important repositories of the culture of the Pamirs is the traditional Pamiri house, locally known as ‘Chid’. The symbolism of specific structural features of the Pamiri house goes back over two and a half thousand years. It is the symbol of the universe and also the place of private prayer and worship for Pamiri Ismailis (the Ismailis have as yet no mosques in Gorno-Badakhshan) and embodies elements of ancient Aryan philosophy – including Zoroastrianism – many of which have since been assimilated into Pamiri Ismaili tradition. What to the untrained eye looks like a very basic – even primitive – structure, is, for the people who live in it, rich in religious and philosophical meaning. For more information see: www.pamirs.org/pamiri%20house.htm.

Interior of traditional Pamir house

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1.3 Overview of itineraries in the Pamirs and map

Number of tour

(* see map, page 13) Name of itinerary Number of

days Page

number 1a) Town Tour Day tour 14 1b)* Shrines Tour Day tour 15 1c) Day tour 15 1d)* Afghan Impressions Day tour 15 1e)* Garm Chashma Day tour 16 1f)* Bogev Day tour 16 2)* Short Afghan Tour 3 – 7 days 17 3)* Ishkashim and the Wakhan 2 – 6 days 18

4a)* Wakhan – Shokhdara 7 – 8 days 22 4b)* Wakhan – Bulunkul – Yeshilkul 8 days 23 4c)* Wakhan – Pamir Highway – Murghab 9 days 23 4d)* Wakhan – Great Pamir - Murghab 9 days 24 5)* Bartang Valley 2 – 10 days 25 6)* Lake Sarez 5 days 26 7)* Glacier Trek 6 days 27 8a) Jailoo Tour 2 – 5 days 28 8b)* Karakul 2 days 28 8c)* Tokhtamish – Shaymak Day tour 29 8d)* Shorkul - Rangkul Day tour 30 8e) Madyan - Elisu Day tour 31

1.4 Description of itineraries in the Pamirs 1) Day Tours from Khorog

1a) Town Tour – comprising: Bazaar – see how Khorog families do their shopping, talk with traders

Afghan trader at Khorog Afghan market Afghan Market– Every Saturday Afghan traders are permitted to cross the bridge across the Panj river carrying their wares to a specially created customs-free zone – everything from used auto parts to colourful fabrics and traditional herbal remedies. Buy an Afghan hat, talk to the traders and learn about life in Afghan Badakhshan.

Khorog Regional Museum – with explanations of the history of the Pamir region from the Stone Age and Silk Road to the Great Game and the Soviet Union; see the piano carried on foot from Osh by 20 bearers for the daughter of the Russian Commander in 1914. Photo Khorog Museum

Picnic in the Khorog Botanical Garden, second highest in the world, with its museum and displays. Khorog Park – recently redesigned Tea with a Khorog family Optional:

- Site of Aga Khan University Campus with explanation of University’s aims and academic programme

- Visit to Aga Khan Lycée – first private school in Tajikistan – during term time participate in English-language cross-cultural discussion with students

- Visit to a Khalifa (religious leader) for discussion - Visit to a musician’s home for a concert and dancing - Visit to Mountain Societies Development Support Programme for discussion of

development programmes in the Pamirs.

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1b) Shrines tour – with explanations by religious leaders; picnic and tea in traditional Pamiri house: Tem – Imam Zainulabiddin (third Ismaili Imam); Porshinev – Piri Shoh Nasir with holy spring and statue of Nasr Khusraw (approx. 1004-1077), who is recognised as one of the great poets of the Persian language and an important Muslim philosopher – in the Ismaili community of Central Asia he is revered as a saint and the founder of Ismailism in the Pamirs; Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadoni; Gumbazi Pir Sayyid Farrukhshoh with superb calligraphic decoration on the ceiling; Sumbi Duldul, named after Hazrat Ali’s horse who is reputed to have left a footprint here.

Shrine Gumbazi Pir Sayyid Farrukhshoh

Nasr Khusraw in Porshinev village 1c) Accompanied Walks – There are several attractive and easy hikes in and near to Khorog. Day excursions with picnic and guide can be organised (e.g. the Shrines Tour above can be done as a walking tour). 1d) Afghan impressions: Guided walking Tour from Khorog across the bridge to Afghanistan and up to the historical site of Kala-i Bar Panj (“Fortress of the upper Panj”), the residence of the rulers of ancient Badakhshan – picnic on the site with views of Khorog, Porshinev and the Panj. A guide will explain the historical background to the site. The round trip is approx. 20km. In 1880, the pundit and holy man Mukhtar Shah was here spying for the British and described the fortress then: “Passing for half a mile through the cultivation and hamlets of Bar Panjah village (200 houses) to the right and left I reached the fort of that name with a garden before the entrance to the right. This fort, situated on the left bank of a branch of the Panjah, which river here splits up into three channels, enclosing low forest-covered islands, is an oblong 400 paces east and west and 300 north and south. The walls are more than 20 yards high and 6 yards in thickness, with a rampart and parapets for the protection of the defenders. The wall towards the river is built on a rock rising out of the water. The bastions, eight in number, are, as usual, placed at the corners and intermediately. There is a spring of water in the fort. Behind the fort is a large garden, also well-fortified and well-supplied with all sorts of fruit.”

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1e) Garm Chashma – Bathe in the legendary hot spring with reputed magical healing properties. Garm Chashma is located about 35 kilometres south of Khorog up a picturesque side valley from the Panj. Visit shrine to Hazrat Ali. Travel by jeep – Picnic at the hot spring, tea on the way back with a family in a traditional Pamiri house. 1f) Bogev fire temples, ruins of medieval Kafirkala fortress and Mushkilkusho shrine – ten kilometres from Khorog by jeep, picnic at the site and tea in a traditional Pamiri house (option hike)

Bogev fire temple (Photo Peter Burgess)

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2) Short Afghan Tour (3-7 days) This trip takes the visitor high above the river Panj to the beautiful deep blue Shiva Lake (“Kol-i Shewa – 3,110m) and over the mountains on paths worn by local nomads since time immemorial to Ishkashim, where the Panj is crossed again into Tajikistan.

Sheva Lake, Afghan Badakhshan John Wood (explorer of Zorkul in 1838 – see below) and Dr. Albert Regel (the Russian explorer who was here in 1882) recorded the beauty and size of the lake. Ole Olufsen, leader of a Danish expedition in 1888-9, noted that the lake was believed by the local people to be full of sea-horses, that “come out of the water to graze, and then pair with the horses in the fields, and this crossing is said to be very good for the breed. To venture out on these lakes is death, as the sea-monsters would immediately pull one down into the deep.” This isolated mountain area has so far been untouched by security problems. The trip can be undertaken by jeep or on horseback. Homestays are available, but camping is an option.

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3) Modular Tours to Ishkashim and the Wakhan (2-6 days) All these tours are modular in the sense that they can be extended from the preceding tour on the list. All offer spectacular views across the Panj river to Afghanistan and the snow-clad peaks of the Hindu Kush; historical and archaeological sites will be explained by qualified guides. 3a) 2 day tour:

Day 1 – to Ishkashim via Garm Chashma (as above under day tours from Khorog) – Overnight in nearby homestay. Panj river near Ishkashim

Day 2 – visit: ruins of Silk Road Caravanserai in Nut; Kakhkaha fortress, named after the legendary leader of the Siahposh (“black robed”) people (now living in Nuristan in Afghanistan), who is reputed to have ruled the Wakhan region in pre-Islamic times; the oldest parts of the fortress are actually dated to the Kushan period (first to third centuries BCE);

Kakhkaha fortress in Namadgut village

Ostoni Shohi Mardon shrine in Namadgut, with fine carving on the doors and the five stone balls with which, according to local legend, Ali juggled when defeating Kakhkaha.

Interior of shrine Ostoni Shohi Mardon

Return to Khorog. Tea in traditional Pamiri house. Option: Afghan market: every Saturday except in Winter and early Spring (or on official holidays) local inhabitants are permitted to cross the bridge across the Panj to an island in mid-stream where Afghan traders offer their wares, as in Khorog (see above 1a).

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3b) 3 day tour: as above. Day 2 – i) Hike to visit Petroglyphs in Darshay – some dating back to the Kushan period, others with Islamic inscriptions.

Petroglyphs in Darshay and Langar (Photos Vatani Alidodov)

ii) Visit shrine Shoh Isomuddin in Ptup village with a fine garden filled with old twisted sacred trees. The shrine is dedicated to Shoh Hasan Medina who is believed to be one of the first Ismaili envoys who preached to and converted the local people. Shrine Shoh Isomuddin in Ptup

iii) Visit the vast fortress complex Zamr-i-atish-parast (Fortress of fire worshippers) near Yamchun village, also attributed by legend to Kakhkaha. Parts of this fortress date to the Graeco-Bactrian and Kushan periods (3rd to 1st centuries BCE) – other parts are early mediaeval.

Zamr-i-atish-parast (Fortress of fire worshippers) near Yamchun

iv) Bibi Fotima hot spring in Yamchun, believed by the local people to improve female fertility Overnight in nearby home stay. Day 3 – return to Khorog, with tea in traditional Pamiri house.

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3c) 4 day tour: as above. Day 3 – visit: i) Museum in Yamg village in the residence of the astronomer and scholar Sufi Muboraki Vakhoni (1839-1930). The museum houses his manuscripts and exhibits a collection of traditional tools, musical instruments and clothes and is a very fine example of a traditional Pamiri house with superb carved pillars and beams. Just outside the museum is the solar calendar used by Sufi Muboraki for determining the start of the Navruz (Spring) festival.

Skylight in Yamg museum

Entrance to Yamg museum

Stupa in Vrang

ii) Vrang village: Buddhist stupa and shrine/museum Osorkhonai Abdullo Ansori, dedicated to the mystic and Sufi poet Abdullo Ansori, who lived in the 11th century CE. Overnight in nearby homestay. Day 4 – return to Khorog, with tea in traditional Pamiri house.

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3d) 5 day tour: as above. Day 4 – Travel to the village of Langar and hike to see pre-historic Petroglyphs. Visit shrine Mazori Shoh Kambari Oftob, meaning literally ‘Holy Place of the Master of the Sun’, which would suggest that, like many other holy places in the Wakhan, it was revered already in pre-Islamic times. Overnight in nearby homestay. Bactrian camels are bred near Langar and camel trekking can be organised.

Shrine Mazori Shoh Kambari Oftob Day 5 – Return to Khorog, stopping en route in Zong village for hike to visit site of Vishimkala fortress (‘Silk Fortress’ in the Wakhi language, also known by its corresponding Tajik name of Abreshimkala) dating from the medieval period. According to legend, the fortress was once covered entirely in silk.

Vishimkala fortress in Zong

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4) Wakhan Circuit Tours 4a) Wakhan - Shokhdara (7 - 8 days) As 5-day Wakhan tour, visit Vishimkala on Day 4 and Day 5 – travel from Langar up the beautiful Pamir river to the Pamir Highway (look out for Bactrian camels en route) and into the upper Shokhdara valley. Overnight in homestay in Jawshangoz village.

Pamir river Bactrian camels on Pamir river Karl Marx Peak Day 6 – hike southtowards the Mats Pass with spectacular views of Karl Marx Peak (6,723m) and Engels Peak (6,510m). Return to Jawshangoz. Horses are also available. Day 7 – return to Khorog, visiting fortresses in Deruj (late Kushan period, 2nd-3rd centuries CE), Shashbuvad (19th century CE) and Roshtkala (7th century CE) and shrine of Sayyid Jalol Bukhori in Tavdem village. Tea in traditional Pamiri house.

Shrine of Sayyid Jalol Bukhori

Deruj fortress

Optional additional day hiking above the Shokhdara river with overnight in Tusion village.

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4b) Wakhan – Bulunkul - Yeshilkul (8 days) As 5-day Wakhan tour, visit Vishimkala on Day 4 and Day 5 – travel from Langar up the beautiful Pamir river to the Pamir Highway and to Bulunkul village for overnight stay. Days 6 and 7 – visit Bulunkul lake and hike around spectacular Yeshilkul lake (it means green lake and lives up to its name) with Scythian burial grounds and Chinese caravanserai.

Bulunkul Caravanserai in Sumantash Yeshilkul Photo Surat Toimastov Day 8 – return to Khorog down the Pamir Highway, with stop in Bogev (see 1f above) and tea in traditional Pamiri house. 4c) Wakhan - Pamir Highway - Murghab (9 days) This and the next trip are especially suited to visitors continuing to Osh and Kyrgyzstan, e.g. with return air flight from Bishkek – road transport to Osh can be organised as well as flights Osh-Bishkek) As 8-day Wakhan-Bulunkul-Yashilkul tour, and Day 8 – Bulunkul to Murghab – overnight in yurt. Day 9 – to Osh (427km) or return to Khorog (311km) Optional: the itinerary can be shortened by 2 days (days 6 and 7) by excluding the visit to Bulunkul and Yeshilkul and travelling from Langar to Alichur on day 5 – overnight in yurt in Alichur.

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4d) Wakhan - Great Pamir - Murghab (9 days) As 6-day Wakhan tour, visit Vishimkala on Day 5 and Day 6 – travel from Langar up the beautiful Pamir river and through the checkpoint at Khargush to Zorkul lake (the first non-local visitor was Captain John Wood in 1838 and the lake used to be called Wood’s Lake or Lake Victoria by British Great Game players) and to the hunting camp at Jarty Gumbez for hot spring bath and overnight stay.

Zorkul Great Pamir to Bendersky Pass Istyk River near Jarty Gumbez

Day 7 – hiking around Jarty Gumbez with guide from hunting camp who will show visitors the Scythian burial grounds and (if possible) flocks of Marco Polo sheep (Ovis Poli) on the distant hillsides

Day 8 – travel to Murghab for overnight yurt stay Day 9 – continue to Osh (427km) or return to Khorog (311km)

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5) Bartang Valley (various options from 2 to 10 days) The valley of the Bartang river is one of the most picturesque in the Pamirs (Bartang means “narrow passage” and its people are among the most hospitable, keeping alive many of the old Pamiri traditions.

Yapshorv village (Bartang)

Bartang near Yemts village

Rasuj village (Bartang) The valley is long (158 km to the last village, Ghudara) and there are many homestays in traditional Pamiri houses on the way. Both jeep and hiking tours can be organised, or a combination of both. A Bartang tour can be combined with the Sarez tour (see below). N.B. This trip and the Sarez tour are best undertaken in late spring, early summer or autumn, as the road along the river is often flooded in the hottest months.

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6) Lake Sarez (5 days)

The sapphire-coloured Lake Sarez was formed in 1911 by the blocking of the Murghab river by a massive landslide, provoked by an earthquake. Sarez is the name of the village that lies submerged at its bottom. (N.B. This itinerary requires adequate physical fitness). Day 1 - Drive from Khorog up the Bartang valley to the spectacularly located village of Barchadev approx. 130km from Khorog). Overnight stay in a traditional Pamiri house. Day 2 – Sarez is reached in six to eight hours after a fairly steep climb (16km – height difference approx. 800m – Sarez is at 3,339m) up a well-constructed path. Camping.

Lake Sarez (Photo Misha Romanyuk)

Day 3 – Walking and trekking near the lake (a boat trip can be organised). Camping.

Barchadev village

Day 4 – Return to Barchadev. Overnight stay in a traditional Pamiri house. Day 5 – Return to Khorog – tea in a traditional Pamiri house. Visit shrines in Bardara, Bassid and Vomar.

Carvings in shrine in Bardara village

The tour can be extended on the return journey by one or more overnight stays in the pretty villages en route to Khorog.

Shrine in Bassid

Exterior of shrine in Bardara

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7) Glacier Trek (6 days)

The Pamirs contain, of course, many glaciers, among which the Fedchenko Glacier, the longest mountain glacier in the world (77km – 270 km²). Willi Rickmer Rickmers, one of the pioneers of European skiing, who traversed several of them in 1913 and again in 1928 as leader of an official German-Soviet expedition, linked the distinctive nature of the Pamirs to their glacial formation. “The glaciers of the Pamirs have certain distinctive features. We owe to the climate the wonderful preservation of those elementary geomorphological shapes and signs of glaciation which, in the Alps, are scoured by the rain and overgrown with vegetation. In the Pamirs, rivers have sawn sharp-edged canyons into sediments without carrying away the walls. …. The Pamirs occupy a place in the line of transformations between desert and luxuriant jungle. They are sensitive and react quickly, whereas the Alpine glaciers are sluggish, and their tongues have longer in which to melt. Without the glaciers on the Roof of the World, there would not have been empires in Turkestan.” Ascent to the Fedchenko and other high mountain glaciers requires much experience, preparation, and specialised equipment. At the end of the Vanch valley, however, there is a relatively accessible if arduous trekking route to glaciers below the Fedchenko. N.B. Glacier trekking is always dangerous and this trip must only be undertaken with qualified mountain guides who know the route well. Day 1 – Drive from Khorog to Poi Mazor, last village in the Vanch valley. Visit reputed grave of Hazrat Ali. Homestay. Day 2 – Drive to end of jeepable road beyond Poi Mazor and trek to the snout of the Bears (Medvezhiy) glacier; this gives you a superb view up the steep Russian Geographical Society (Geograficheskogo Obshchestva) glacier, down which, it is said, Soviet mountaineers used to ski after visiting the Fedchenko glacier) with Peak Garmo (6,595m) at its head. Camping. Poi Mazor

Day 3 – Trek along and across the moraine-covered snout of the Bears glacier, wading through its icy stream, across the snout of the Abdulkhagor glacier and steep climb up the lateral moraine / ablation valley (3,500m). Nice views of surrounding peaks. Trek across moraine to Abdulkhagor Glacier. Camping.

Bears Glacier Photo Markus Hauser Day 4 – Trek in and out of the ablation valley – tremendous views down and across the plunging, steep crevassed section of the Abdulkhagor glacier, free of moraine, with smaller feeder glaciers coming in (4,400 metres). Begin descent to Poi Mazor. Camping. Day 5 – Return to Vanch valley. Overnight in traditional Pamiri house. Peak Garmo Day 6 – Return to Khorog - tea in a traditional Pamiri house.

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8) High Plateau Yurt Tours from Murghab

Murghab (“river of birds” - 3,650m) is the main town of the Eastern Pamirs and the centre of the district known also as Murghab. The majority of the population are of Kyrgyz ethnic extraction and until the 1950s led an essentially nomadic way of life. Due to a decrease in numbers of livestock at the end of the Soviet period, the population has become sedentary and fewer migrate to yurt encampments with their livestock in the summer. The tours listed below all begin in Murghab. They are also “modular” in the sense that they can be combined with, for example, tours 5c (Wakhan-Pamir Highway-Murghab) and 5d (Wakhan-Great Pamir-Pamir Highway-Murghab) above. For those visitors who wish to concentrate on the “high plateau experience” these tours can be planned as a combination tour, with Murghab as the primary destination (either from Osh in Kyrgyzstan or from Dushanbe via Khorog) and starting point for all these tours. Day tours can be extended for hiking according to the wishes of visitors. Mountain bikes can be rented in Murghab as another option. 8a) Jailoo tour (2 - 5 days) Tours of the high summer pastures (‘jailoo’ in the Kyrgyz language), combining yurt accommodation and participation in the life of the herders (most own sheep, goats, yak and cattle), can be organised at variable lengths according to visitors’ wishes. Camel trekking is also available.

Yurt side valley near Murghab Yurt interior Preparing the yak for milking 8b) Karakul (2 days) This tour is best undertaken either on the way out of the Pamirs, or on the way in, in which case only one day need be planned. The impressive high plateau road to Karakul follows the Akbaital river – in places the desert terrain resembles a moonscape (it was once on the bottom of the ocean).

Pamir Highway North of Murghab Pool on Pamir Highway Akbaital River

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Travel is by jeep and the round trip Murghab-Karakul-Murghab (total 270km) requires two days due to the poor condition of the surface on much of the Pamir Highway. The village of Karakul has several yurt stays and homestays.

Karakul looking south Karakul is a spectacularly beautiful lake. Despite its name (“Black Lake”), for most of the year the cloudless skies and pure air (3,923m) give it a translucent azure colour. Enjoy the views from different points around the lake – follow in the footsteps of the great Russian scientist, naturalist and explorer Nicolai Severtsov, who was here in 1878 and brought back 20,000 plant specimens, 60 mammals, 350 birds and 20 fish.

Drawings from Nicolai Severtsov’s collections (Pamir Archive – Markus Hauser)

At the northern end of the lake, at a place known as Kara-Art, a track turns off west to pre-historic geoglyphs and Saka graves, located about 500m from the turnoff. 8c) Tokhtamish - Shaymak (day tour) From Murghab town, at the junction of the Akbaital and Aksu rivers – where the river becomes the Murghab – a road branches off the Pamir Highway to the east, leading past the village of Kona-Kurghan with its interesting graveyard, up the Aksu valley (“White river”) to Tokhtamish and Shaymak (approx. 250km round trip). Travel is by jeep and the road leads first in the direction of the border crossing to China at the Kulma Pass (not open for tourist traffic at the time of writing) and then follows the fence protecting the no-mans-land border area as far as Shaymak. The road offers views of the peak of Mustagh Ata (“Father of the Ice”, 7,546m) in the Tashkurgan Autonomous County in China on the other side of the Sarikol range. It also passes several attractive lakes and ancient burial grounds. Some are of pre-historic Scythian origin. A small homestay is available in Shaymak.

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Ruins of a caravanserai Kyzylgorum lake View of Mustagh Ata the road to Shaymak from Tokhtamishon

8d) Shorkul - Rangkul (day tour)

Some 19km north of Murghab town on the Pamir Highway, a road leads east to the beautiful iridescent lakes of Shorkul and Rangkul. Travel is by jeep, but the short distance to Rangkul (65km) and the pure scenery make this also an attractive hiking route. There are yurt stays and homestays in the village of Rangkul. Camel trekking can be organised from here.

Shorkul Rangkul

Opposite Shorkul there are ancient Kyrgyz graves and a large rock outcrop known locally as Chiragh Tash (‘lamp rock’) from the light that supposedly shines from inside a cave on the eastern side some fifty metres from the ground. According to legend, the light comes from the eye of a dragon guarding a treasure in the cave (the entrance to the cave resembles an eye). Two Great Game players, Ney Elias (1885) and Francis Younghusband (1891) were here and recorded the legend. From Rangkul there are views of the peak of Mustagh Ata (“Father of the Ice”, 7,546m) in the Tashkurgan Autonomous County in China on the other side of the Sarikol range. Chiragh Tash

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8e) Madyan-Elisu (day tour) At the southern entrance to Murghab town a road leads west along the Murghab river to Madyan and, up a side valley, to the hot spring Elisu. The valley on the way to Madyan benefits from a micro-climate that is significantly warmer than the rest of Murghab district and the land supports some grain crops and lush pasture. A yurt stay and homestay are available at the hot spring.

Views along the road to Madyan

All photos © Robert Middleton www.pamirs.org unless otherwise indicated

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Poppies field

2. Tajikistan and Zerafshan

2.1 Introduction The Zerafshan Valley is part of the Soghd Region of Tajikistan. The valley is situated in Central Tajikistan, between the Turkestan Mountains to the north & Zerafshan Range to the south. The Yagnob & Fandarya Rivers lie to the east, with the Marguzor Lakes Valley to the west. The region has approximately 300,000 inhabitants in 259 villages across 24 communities. The local economy is mostly agricultural, but in common with the rest of Tajikistan, a large proportion of the local economy is dependent on migrant remittances. Penjikent, situated in the far west, close to the border with Uzbekistan, is the largest town in the Region and provides an ideal starting point for travelling in the Zerafshan Valley. The climate of the Zerafshan valley is continental and semi-arid. Winters are usually relatively mild but have plenty of snow. During the main tourist season from May to October, the weather is dry and stable, making the region safe and enjoyable for trekking and mountaineering at this time. The unspoilt environment attracts nature-lovers. In many places, the traveller will meet with the same impressions as Marco Polo did on his journey along this part of the Silk Road 750 years ago. The most popular treks in the Zerafshan Valley connect the alpine lakes of the Fann mountains. Hiking can range from short 1 or 2 day treks, suitable for all levels including families with children, up to 2 weeks crossing the whole range. In addition to the appeal for soft activity tourism, there are also some facilities for mountaineering and alpinism which has re-emerged as a popular activity in recent years. There is a network of tarmac roads throughout most of the region and access to all main tourism attractions is easy. Mountain roads leading to more remote villages and communities can be accessed by 4 wheel drive vehicles. In addition to the lakes and mountains with appeal to outdoor enthusiasts, Zerafshan is home to historical and cultural sites. Close to Penjikent is Sarazm, the most ancient settlement in Central Asia. Sarazm (sari zamin) –

“beginning of the world” is more than 5500 years old and is considered to be the birthplace of Tajik civilization. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Samarqand is only 60km away, making the Zerafshan Valley well suited to combined tours of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.

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Donkeys are a popular vehicle during trekking tours

Eighth local tour operators, based in Zerafshan, are members of the Zerafshan Tourism Board www.zerafshan.info. The tour operators are developing an increasingly exciting range of products to suit discerning European travellers. In addition to trekking, there are jeep tours following great adventurers of the past. From the Legendary journeys of Alexander the Great, exploring the life and works of Rudaki, travelling the Silk Road and into the playing fields of the Great Game and to hear the language of Persian Kings surviving from millennia ago in remote mountain valleys. There are options for horse riding, boating, fishing, cycling, local cookery lessons, visits with local musicians and craft producers, tasting the freshest local honey from the local bee keepers. Community based tourism in the region is being developed by Zerafshan Tourism Development Association. It involves people in tourism development, and aims to improve the well-being of the local communities – to reduce poverty, create new jobs, and at the same time conserve the fragile environment of the region as well as preserve the cultural heritage. A network of 17 homestays has been created and supported close to major attractions in the region. There is

opportunity to meet with local people and experience Tajikistan’s traditional way of life. Tour packages are offered making full use of local service providers. The ZTDA has a tourist information centre in Penjikent and runs a craft shop to support production of locally produced products for sale to tourists (www.ztda-tourism.tj). In general standards of comfort and service suit only more “adventure seeking” visitors. Rural homestays and guesthouses offer basic, traditional style accommodation. Toilets are generally the “hole in the floor” variety. In larger towns there are former Soviet style tourist hotels, offering modern services, including satellite television and internet connections. In Dushanbe international 5-Star accommodation is available.

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2.2 Itineraries in Zerafshan The following itineraries and excursions are a sample of the interesting places and many routes available to visitors to the region. They are intended to inspire and encourage visitors to find the highlights of Tajikistan and perhaps venture to previously unthought-of destinations. Using either Dushanbe or Penjikent as a base it is possible to make several short excursions returning back to the city each night. This option is recommended for visitors requiring higher levels of service than could be offered in more remote areas. For those looking to explore further and experience more of Tajikistan, there are modular jeep and trekking tours lasting from 2 to 9 days. All of these tours can be fitted together to suit your interests and specific requirements. Some routes are circular and others are journeys which can be made in either direction. Most tours have a shorter and extended version. The start and end point of each tour is listed with details of all other tours which could easily begin from this point. Joining 2 or more tours together will enable you to travel from North to South of the region and combine cultural experiences with adventures in the mountains. Tailor-made packages are available combining aspects of all itineraries. The Fann Mountains offer spectacular and surprisingly accessible trekking. Trekking lasting from 5 to 20 days is available but we have not gone into more detail here. Details of all tour operators offering such services can be found on our website at www.zerafshan.info. 2 classic Fann Mountain Tours are listed to whet your walking appetite. In addition the Fann Mountains are a fabulous compact arena for alpinists and mountain climbers, with 11 peaks above 5000m within easy reach.

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2.3 Overview of itineraries in Zerafshan and map

Number of tour

(* see map, page 36) Name of itinerary Number of

days Page

number 1)* Dushanbe City Tour & Day Trips Day tours 37 1a) ½ Day Behzod National History

Museum ½ Day 37

1b) ½ Day Gurminj Museum of Musical Instruments & Shashmakom Performance

½ Day 37

1c) ½ Day National Museum of Antiquities & Botanical Gardens

½ Day 37

1d) 1 Day Hissor Fortress Day tour 38 1e) 1 Day Varzob Trek with Picnic Lunch Day tour 38 2)* Penjikent – City Tours and Day Trips Day tours 39 2a) ½ Day Town Tour ½ Day 39 2b) ½ Day Ancient Sarazm ½ Day 40 2c) 1 Day Literary & Architecture Day tour 40 2d) 1 Day Seven Lakes with Picnic Lunch Day tour 41 3)* Iskanderkul Lake 2 – 6 days 42 3a) Iskanderkul 2 days 43 3b) Iskanderkul Cycling 3 days 43 3c) Trekking from Iskanderkul to Artuch

Base Camp 6 days 44

4)* Yagnob Valley 2 – 7 days 45 4a) Yagnob Experience 2 days 45 4b) Short Yagnob Valley Trek Margheb to

Kirionte 5 days 46

4c) Through Yagnob Valley Trek to Upper Zerafshan, or begin in Veshab for reverse route

7 days 47

5)* Upper Zerafshan & Kushistone Mastchoh

1 – 7 days 48

5a) Veshab 1 or 2 days 48 5b) Kushistone Mastchoh and Zerafshan

Glacier 5 or 6 days 49

5c) Upper Zerafshan to Yagnob Valley 7 days 50 6)* Seven Lakes 2 – 5 days 51 7)* Kulikalon and Alauddin Lakes 3 – 6 days 53 7a) Artuch - Alp Base Camp 3 days 53 7b) Artuch Alp Base Camp to Sarvoda 4 or 5 days 54 7c) Trekking Alauddin Circuit 5 days 55 7d) Alauddin to Iskanderkul Lake 6 days 55 8)* Northern Tajikistan & Silk Road Cities 2 or more days 56

2.4 Description of itineraries in Zerafshan

1) Dushanbe - City Tour & Day Trips Most international flights to Tajikistan arrive in Dushanbe and visitors will normally spend at least one night here. It’s a relaxed city with wide streets and many parks and trees retaining the ambiance intended by the original city planners in the 1920s – wide, tree-lined boulevards with elegant buildings painted in white and pastel colours. Modern Dushanbe was built around the railway station, which brought a branch of the Turk-Sib railway here in 1929. The current terminal building (built in the 1960s) is fronted with stained glass windows depicting enthusiastic Communist workers in the bold colours of the Socialist Realist style. An experienced tour guide helps to bring the city to life explaining the history and features of the buildings, monuments & parks. 1a) ½ Day Behzod National History Museum Starting at the Railway station, where a statue of the 20th century Tajik writer Sadriddin Aini sits facing the Behzod National History Museum we begin our tour. The museum houses extensive exhibits of natural history, ethnography and archaeology, highlights include a lovely minbar (mosque pulpit) and mihrab (niche marking the direction of Mecca). Leaving the museum we take a relaxed stroll to Freedom Square. The statue of Lenin which stood here in the Soviet era was quietly moved to Central Park, and it is now the founder of the Persian Samanid dynasty, Ismoil Somoni, who looks down at passers-by. We continue through the Central Park exploring the commercial centre of Dushanbe on foot. Finish the tour with a traditional lunch in the elaborately decorated grand Tea House “Rohat” 1b) ½ Day Gurminj Museum of Musical Instruments & Shashmakom Performance The Museum of musical instruments, better known as the Gurminj Museum, was established in 1990 by Gurminj Zavqibekov (1929-2003), National artist of Tajikistan, laureate of the Rudaki state prize. There are about 100 musical instruments in the Museum collection mostly representing the Pamiri and Badakhshani musical tradition but also including many musical instruments presented to the Museum. The Museum also contains a small collection of household goods, utensils and national garments. There is an opportunity to organize a performance of Tajik traditional classic music – Shashmakom (meaning “six tones” in Tajik). 1c) ½ Day National Museum of Antiquities & Botanical Gardens The Museum of National Antiquities is the best in the country. It features exhibits focusing on the Greco-Bactrian sites of Takht-i-Sangin (including a small ivory image of Alexander the Great) and Kobadiyan, plus original Sogdian murals and statues from the excavations of Ancient Penjikent. The highlight is the largest sleeping Buddha in Central Asia, the 14m long “Buddha in Nirvana” of Adjina-Tepe, excavated in 1966. Leaving the museum we walk north where our tour includes the Park of Rudaki with a view of the President’s Residence and the botanical gardens where you can see examples of regional Tajik homes.

Kok gumbaz mosque in Istaravshan

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1d) 1 Day Hissor Fortress The remains of the 18thcentury Hissor Fortress lie just above the flat valley to the west of Dushanbe. Hissor was the capital of Eastern Bukhara province and was occupied by the representative of the Emir, Ibrahim Beg until 1924, when it was destroyed in a rearguard action by the Red Army against the Basmachi. The gate towers are all that remain; however, a short climb to the top of the Citadel is rewarded with a panoramic view of the Hissor valley, ringed by mountains. The fortress faces a market square ringed by a caravanserai and two madrasahs, one of which is now a fine ethnographic museum. Other important buildings on the site include the

16th century Mausoleum of Makhtum Azam, the Masjid-i-Sangin (“Stone Mosque”) and the natural spring Chashma-i-Mohiyon.

1e) 1 Day Varzob Trek with Picnic Lunch Varzob Gorge is a beautiful alpine mountain region within easy driving distance of Dushanbe. The main road north out of Dushanbe follows the route of the rushing Varzob River for about 70 km, before climbing steeply to Anzob Pass. Some of the highlights include Guzgarf Waterfall and the Sioma River Valley. There are also natural thermal springs at Khoja Obi Garm. Varzob is perfect for walking and there are many scenic spots to stop for a relaxed lunch of fresh local produce.

Hisor fortress

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A scene from a traditional folklore show

2) Penjikent - City Tours and Day Trips

Penjikent is the gateway to the Fann Mountains and is the largest town in the picturesque Zerafshan Valley, located close to the border with Uzbekistan, just 65km from Samarqand. Modern Penjikent is one of the most important political, economic and cultural centres of Tajikistan. As long as 6000 years ago the ancient inhabitants of this region, the Sarazmians, began city building, manufacturing and trading. From the 6th – 8th centuries CE it was the most important cultural and artistic centre of Sogd. In addition to these day trips, Penjikent makes an ideal starting point for all the longer itineraries listed. All tours can include a visit to a local Tea House (Chaikhana), and dining on traditional Penjikent Plov 2a) ½ Day Town Tour

Ancient Penjikent – Excavations and Museum Bazaar Mosque & Madrasah of Olim-dodkho (XVIc) The ancient Sogdian City of Penjikent (5th-8th centuries) was sacked by the Arabs and buried for centuries. It was rediscovered in the mid-twentieth century and excavations continue today. It was a superbly fortified well-organized city with a ruler's palace, two temples of the fire worshipping Zoroastrians, markets, rich dwelling houses decorated with numerous paintings, wooden and clay

statues of ancient gods. Original frescoes from the excavations can be found in the town Museum. To the west is the Citadel, whose last inhabitant was the last Sogdian King, Devastich. From the site there are stunning views across the new town, which has grown up just 1.5km from the ancient town. The town is also home to a charming walled traditional Bazaar, bustling and full of the sights and sounds of local traders. Directly opposite is the town's largest Mosque. The fine arched Mihrab, indicating the direction of Mecca, is set in the western wall. Every Friday 1500 worshippers congregate here for "Namozi Jum’a" – "Friday prayers".

Ruins of fire-worshippers temple in Ancient Penjikent excavations

Carpet weaving in Shing village

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2b) ½ Day Ancient Sarazm Excavations of Ancient Sarazm Republican History and Regional Study

Museum, named after A. Rudaki 15km to the west of Penjikent is another important archaeological site, Sarazm, the oldest known settlement in Central Asia, with finds dating from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages (4th- 2nd centuries BCE). The site includes houses and a fire temple with a circular altar imitating solar rays. A large 25m diameter grave from the 4th century BC had several tombs including the grave of a wealthy

woman, now known as the ”Queen of Sarazm”. The excavations of Ancient Sarazm are currently under consideration to become the 1st UNESCO World Heritage site in Tajikistan. Many artefacts from Sarazm are on display in The Republican History and Regional Study Museum named after A. Rudaki. The museum was specially commissioned and built in 1958 in honour of the 1100th anniversary of the poet Abuabdulloh Rudaki, the founder of Tajik-Persian classical literature.

2c) 1 Day Literary & Architecture Mausoleum of Muhammad Bashoro (XI c.) in Mazar-i Sharif

village Museum of Loik Sherali Rudaki Mausoleum in Panjrud To the east of Penjikent, in the village of Mazar-i Sharif, is the 11th century Mausoleum of Muhammad Bashoro, the famous Islamic scholar who died here in 866 CE. The mosque features an unusual central wooden pillar and a Chila-Khona (“forty-day room”), where holy men could isolate themselves for 40 days to read and meditate on the Qu'ran. Close to the mausoleum is the Museum of Loik Sherali, a famous local poet of the 20th Century. The village is home to an elaborately decorated traditional teahouse. The Tajik-Persian classical poet Rudaki also came from a village near Penjikent. He was born in Panjrud, and although he spent much of his life in Samarqand in Bukhara, he returned here to die. His mausoleum is in an attractive garden in his home village.

Historical museum in Penjikent

Traditional chaikhana (tea house) in Panjrud village

Mausoleum gates

Mausoleum of Rudaki

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2d) 1 Day Seven Lakes with Picnic Lunch There are places in every country of the world which make the country famous by their beauty and uniqueness. The natural miracle “Seven Lakes” is one of such places and is one of the most attractive places in Tajikistan. The Seven Lakes flow one into other and at the same time have different colours, shapes and sizes. Drive to the third of the Seven Lakes, Hushyor, meaning “vivacious”. Enjoy an invigorating short trek in the fresh mountain air, around the second and third lakes before enjoying a lakeside picnic lunch of fresh local produce.

Tovassang pass

Monument to the first heroic woman-pilot in Penjikent

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3) Iskanderkul Lake

2 hours from Dushanbe or 4 hours from Penjikent by road lies the legendary Iskanderkul Lake, one of the most picturesque mountain lakes in Central Asia. The deep blue glacial waters of the lake are ringed by the high peaks of the Fann Mountains. At 1295m it is the highest lake in the mountains and also the deepest, reaching depths of 72m. As well as being a place of stunning natural beauty, many legends about Alexander the Great cling to this place. Local legend declares that Alexander's armies passed through these mountains on their way to conquer Samarqand. Some

say that the Sogdian leader Spitamen was pursued to his death near here. Other tales tell of the ghostly figure of Alexander's battle horse Bucephalus galloping across the surface on moonlight nights. Fed by the Sarytag, Hazormech and Serima Rivers, the water flows out to the Iskander-Darya River, which plunges dramatically down a 38m waterfall. A platform allows spectators to stand right above the thunderous torrent. The narrow road leads round the lake to Panjchashma, which means five springs. Here there is a summer pavilion and resting place and an enclosure of wild Ptarmigan. Walking around the lake there are excellent viewing points of both Iskanderkul and the nearby “Snake” Lake. A diversity of wildlife inhabits the vicinity of the lake, though the lake itself is devoid of life. The entire lake and surrounding area is a Wildlife Preserve. Close to Savador, just before the merger of the Yagnoba with the Iskander-Darya you can observe a rare natural phenomenon - underground coal fires. Smouldering underground for centuries, the burning hard coal has produced gases, reaching three hundred degrees. The walls of caves in this area are covered with crystals of sulfur and ammonia, and the soil near the cracks is so hot that it is possible to roast meat, bake cakes or boil tea on the stones.

Saritag can be used as an overnight stop or as the start or end point of many classic Fann Mountain Trekking Routes, including our longer Seven Lakes and Artuch Itineraries

Iskanderkul lake

Turtles on Iskanderkul shore

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3a) Iskanderkul (2 Days ) Day 1: Ayni or Dushanbe ~ Iskanderkul ~ Saritag By road to Iskanderkul. A picnic lunch and exploring the flora and fauna around the lake, where 169 different varieties of birds have been recorded. A short 9km to the village of Saritag. Overnight: Choice of 3 local homestays in Saritag Day 2: Saritag ~ Iskanderkul After a delicious breakfast of fresh local produce our hosts in Saritag share their fascinating local knowledge of traditional mountain plants and flowers. Spend the morning exploring and relaxing in the fresh mountain air. After lunch trek back to Iskanderkul and then drive to Ayni or Dushanbe or a short drive to Margheb to start one of our Yagnob Itineraries.

3b) Iskanderkul Cycling (3 Days) Day 1: Ayni or Dushanbe to Iskanderkul By road to Sarvoda. Stop to visit the amazing natural coal fires burning underground. From Sarvoda cycling 24km to Iskanderkul Lake. Overnight: Tents by the lakeside Day 2: Iskanderkul Lake ~ Saritag A relaxing morning followed by a short 9km hike to the ancient village of Saritag Overnight: Enjoy traditional Tajik hospitality in a village homestay. Day 3: Saritag ~ Dushanbe Trek back to Iskanderkul 9km, where our bikes are waiting. Continue cycling 24km to Sarvoda or if you prefer by Jeep back to Dushanbe or Ayni.

Iskanderkul is a popular staging point for many classic trekking routes in the Fann Mountains. Too complex to cover in detail here, more information on planning such trips is available from our website at www.zerafshan.info. Easy to Moderate Trekking through the mountains. Not technically difficult but strenuous at times. Fully supported by experienced mountain guides and crew. Overnight in tents, luggage carried by donkey and handlers.

Iskanderkul lake shore Camping

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3c) Trekking from Iskanderkul to Artuch Base Camp (6 days) Day 1: Saritag Canyon ~ Sugurkhona (2600m) After breakfast, trek through Saritag Canyon to the foot of Dugdon Pass. This part of our tour passes through deep canyons covered in a tangle of a Juniper and low bushes of dog rose and iris. You are sure to see many marmots here since Sugurkhona means “Marmot Colony”. There are many other small mammals, birds and medicinal herbs and plants to be seen. Day 2: Sugurkhona ~ Dugdon Pass (3810m) ~ Sarikhodan (2400m)

Dugdon Pass is the longest and highest pass of our tour. From here you can enjoy a spectacular panorama of the snow-covered Fann Mountains. These peaks are Pushnova (4637m), Dugdon (4896m), Sarikhodan (4679m). Picnic lunch on the pass. After crossing Archamaidon Valley we will stop at the camp of Sarikhodan (2400m).

Day 3: Sarikhodon ~ Duobai Sarimat (1800m) Trek through the beautiful canyon of Archamaidon. Unexpected meetings with local shepherds are possible, and perhaps an opportunity to sample local yoghurt and fruit. Overnight in the Duobai Sarimat at the place where the rivers of Archamaidon and Duoba merge. Day 5: Sarimat ~ Guytan Village (2400m) Continue trek through the Archamaidon Valley. We will visit the villages on the way and introduce you to the life of the inhabitants. Day 6: Guytan Pass ~ Chukurak Lake (2600m) ~ Artuch Alp Base Camp Over the Guytan Pass to Chukurak Lake – trek around the lake. Overnight: Alp Base Camp, Artuch.

Amazing view to “Hat of Alexander” mountain

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4) Yagnob Valley The Yagnob River is a part of the Zeravshan river basin. It is 130 km long and belongs administratively to Ayni district of Sughd region. The river originates in a high-mountain valley of the same name situated between the Southern slope of the Zeravshan range and Northern slope of the Hissar range. (http://www.yagnob.org/). In the first millennium BCE, Sogd (Sogdiana or Sogdia) was a centre of a developed ancient civilization with high levels of culture, arts and crafts.

In the 8th century, the troops of the Arab Caliphate invaded Central Asia, and with fire and sword

spread a new religion – Islam. The Sogdians escaped to this inaccessible mountain gorge. At the eastern edge of the Zerafshan Valley, it is still possible to hear the Sogdian tongue being spoken. This was the language of the Persian kings – the language of Roxanne, the wife of Alexander the Great. In the 1970s, many inhabitants of the higher territories of the Zarafshan Valley were resettled to undeveloped lands of the present Ganchi, Zafarabad and Matcha districts. Among this population there were also Yagnobian people. But in the 1990’s, after Tajikistan gained independence, many began returning back to their own villages. Today there are Yagnobis living in 14 of the 22 villages remaining in the valley. The villages are located at a height of 2500 – 3000m. Here they have been striving to preserve their culture and traditions, including elements of their ancestors’ fire worshipping Sogdian religion, Zoroastrianism. Yagnob Valley Tours combine walking in some of the least frequented mountains of Central Asia with an opportunity to see this almost extinct culture and hear a language that echoes from thousands of years ago. 4a) Yagnob Experience (2 Days)

Margheb (1700m) means “green, blossoming place” in the Sogdian language. Here, as soon as snow cover vanishes from the earth, green immediately appears, a colourful emerald carpet from rich mountain grass and plants. In Margheb there is a chance to experience the traditional life of mountain villagers. One of the most stunning sites is a kilometre-high rock, which soars above the village, called Zaminkaror, or “Holder of the Earth”.

Activities: Visit of the local farm, which houses more than 150 yak; Introduction to tobacco producing and traditional methods of butter making; Hike to the summer pastures.

Overnight: Traditional home stay. Enjoy the warm hospitality of your local hosts

Margheb can be visited for an overnight stay or used as a starting or ending point for longer Yagnob treks.

Private cornfield of yagnobis

Yagnobian village

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4b) Short Yagnob Valley Trek Margheb to Kirionte (5 Days) Day 1 in Margheb Day 2 Margheb – Bidev – Shovita (1850m) Bidev is 22 km from Margheb. The hike leads west along the Yagnob Gorge, to Shovita.

Hiking features: Above the Yagnob River (16km; 5hrs; altitude difference -300m). The hike is not technically

difficult, but the hiker should be in good physical condition. Porterage is provided. Overnight: Camping Day 3 Shovita – Kirionte Hike to the heart of Yagnob Gorge – the settlements of Pscon and Naumetcan. The central part of the Yagnob area is divided into four smaller parts: Soyaru – “in a shadow”, Aftobru – “on a sun side”, Kul river valley and Pskon. The most amazing fact is that the people living in these four parts speak different dialects of the Yagnob language.

The walls of the Yagnobi houses are made out of bond-stones. The houses are built very tight to each other having a common roof for storing hay. Ceilings are borne by wooden beams. The stove is an obligatory attribute of the each room in the house. The traditional house of Yagnobis is very low and has a small aperture instead of windows. It is divided into MUR – the room, where the stove (inkir in Sogdians or tandir in Tajik) for baking bread is placed. The ceiling in this room has one hole to let the smoke come out;

KANNA – the room for processing and storing the milk products; PISTIK – the room for other storage, and a small corridor. According to historical accounts, the Sogdians - ancestors of the Yagnobis, were excellent farmers. Today, their descendants manage to grow wheat at an altitude of 3000m. Activities:

Visit of a traditional Yagnobi house in Pskon; Visit of the school in Kirionte

Hiking features: Above the Yagnob River, (12km; approx 5 – 6hrs; altitude difference -400m). The hike is not technically difficult, but the hiker should be in good physical condition. Porterage can be provided. Overnight: Camping closed to Kirionte village Day 4 Trekking Kirionte - Shovita Day 5 Trekking/driving Shovita – Margheb

Farmhouses in a yagnobi village

Traditional Yagnobi house

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4c) Through Yagnob Valley Trek to Upper Zerafshan (7 Days) or begin in Veshab for reverse route

The highest pass of the Yagnob Valley is the Samarqand pass (5082m). This itinerary offers a splendid view over the Rost Pass, at 4020m. Marmots are the most frequently met friends among the Yagnob fauna. You may even be lucky enough to see the snow leopard (uncia uncia), the rarest animal of the Gorge. Days 1 – 3 as above Day 4 Kirionte - Dehkalon We continue to ascend to upper side of the Valley leaving the Yagnobi villages behind and enjoying wild unexplored nature. Overnight camp. (18km; 5 hours; altitude difference +700m). Day 5 Dehkalon (3100m) - Over Rost Pass Ascent through small glaciers to one of the highest passes in the Hissar Range (4020 m). Camp at the alpine zone at the foothills of Zerafshan range (12km; 7 hours, +120m, -820m Day 6 Foothills of Zerafshan Range - Saripool Walking with the good paths down from the upper lakes to the village of Saripool. Wildlife is abundant particularly birds, including large lammergeier and eagles. (12km; 5hrs; -1250m) Day 7 Saripool – Khadishahr – Veshab Descent to Khadishahr. (10km; 4 hours; -600m). Transfer by vehicle to Veshab

Veshab can be visited for an overnight stay or used as a starting or ending point for longer Yagnob Treks, Kushistone Mastchoh and Zerafshan Glacier Treks.

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5) Upper Zerafshan & Kushistone Mastсhoh Kuhistone Mastchoh (“mountainous Mastchoh”) is a unique historical district of Tajikistan located in the upper Zerafshan Valley, which runs due east of Ayni for 200km. This remote region is hidden between two mountain ranges – Zerafshan in the south and Turkestan in the north. Zerafshan means “golden river” in Tajik. The local people are strongly dependent on agriculture and the river provides its inhabitants with the most precious resource – water. Kuhistone Mastchoh is the junction of the Alay, Turkestan and Zerafshan

ranges, at a height of 4500m. The 25km long Zerafshan Glacier, source of the Zerafshan River, is located at the junction of the Turkestan and Zerafshan ranges.

Before the Soviet period, the Fann Mountains area was surrounded by three principalities: Magian, Falgar with the centre in Varzi Minor (today Aini), and Mastchoh. The Mastchoh principality was the most isolated and well defended. A chain of forts was constructed starting in Obburdon up to the east of Mastchoh. This region was one of the last to succumb to the Soviet army. The rich culture and traditions of this region are fascinating to visitors. The upper Zerafshan is famous for its poets and singers. The Tajik traditional art of singing Shashmakom (meaning “six tones” in Tajik) has

its roots in this region. In every village you can find poets composing “baits” - short poetical verses. You may have a chance to attend a travelling music contest, which are much loved by local people.

5a) Veshab (1 or 2 Days) Veshab is a very old Tajik Village where the inhabitants have preserved old traditions in their everyday life till this day. The houses here are built on top of each other, a creative solution for survival in such a mountainous area. Activities:

Visit of Mausoleum of Shamsiddin Tebrezi, a famous scientist, philosopher and Islamic theologian who lived in Veshab.

Short walk to orchards, an old mill and traditional houses, one of which contains a museum of local plant species.

5 km hike to summer pasture. Shashmakom performance by local music teacher and his students.

Overnight: Traditional home stays in Veshab

Veshab can be used as an overnight stay or as the start or end point of longer treks in Upper Zerafshan & to the Zerafshan Glacier, the long Yagnob Valley Trek.

Oasis surrounded by high mountains near to Veshab village

Poppies in Tabaspin gorge

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5b) Kushistone Mastchoh and Zerafshan Glacier (5 or 6 Days)

Day 1 Aini – Veshab (48 km by car) Spend the day in Veshab, as above and overnight in home stay. Day 2 Veshab – Obburdon – Hadishahr – Langar (62 km by car) Obburdon was one of many forts built by local beks of the Mastchoh region in the 18th century and offers a beautiful view over the valley. Coming from Yagnob valley on foot, it is possible to join the tour at Hadishahr. Hadishahr Village, which is located 10 km from Obburdon, is the birthplace of the Tajik poet Yusuf Vafo.

Activity: Visit of small museums close to the Obburdon Fortress, Recitation by villagers of the poetry of Yusuf Vafo.

Overnight: at traditional home stay of Kholov Fuzaili in Langar Day 2 Alternative (a) From Langar Trek to Tabaspin Gorge (20 km) The car will drop you on the highest point, where the hike will start. Hike features: Moderate hiking for up to 7 hours. Participants should be used to walking and have at least average fitness levels. Overnight: camping Day 3 Langar – Madrushkat - Sabag (62 km by car)

Madrushkat is a centre of the eastern part of Kuhistone Mastchoh. The small weather forecast station survives from the 1940’s. It is now a museum, which displays rarities from pre-war times, unfortunately it no longer works to predict the weather. We predict fair weather for the rest of our trip!

On the road to remote villages of Mastchoh

Veshab village and its incredible architecture

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On the way to Sabag a short trek to Tabushn leads to a beautiful waterfall. At Sabag, there is a Sabag-sai - a mountain spring. On the rocks near the spring there are some petroglyphs - engravings of animals and people, geometrical forms, symbols as well as some Islamic inscriptions from a later period. It is possible to take a 7km hike to the shrine of Khoja Ibrahim in the gorge of the La Gargif Sai. Overnight: at traditional houses in Sabag. Day 4 Sabag – Paldorak – Dehavz On another side of the River is Paldorak village. Here one can visit the remains of the old fortress. In Dehavz there is the shrine of Abu-Muso Ashgari, which receives every year hundreds of pilgrims. Abu Muso Ashgari was a scientist who collected and recorded the Prophet’s sayings and is held in high respect among all Muslims of the world. A further 7 km by car, and then we hike 15 km to the foot of Zerafshan Glacier, where the “golden” river begins its journey. Day 5 Dehavz - Langar Day 6 Langar – Ayni or Dushanbe

5c) Upper Zerafshan to Yagnob Valley (7 Days) This is the reverse of the 7 Day Yagnob Valley Itinerary.

Departing Langar, it is possible to begin any of the Dushanbe, Iskanderkul or Yagnob Tours. Departing early, after an overnight stay it is possible to begin Fann Mountains, Penjikent and Northern Tours.

Unexplored nature of Tabaspin gorge

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Fann Mountains The renowned Fann Mountains with many glacier-fed rivers, waterfalls and lakes, offer some of the best trekking opportunities in Central Asia. They are an alpine arena of outstanding beauty and character. For decades virtually unknown to the western world, the “Fanski Gori” ranked amongst the popular mountain destinations in the Soviet Union – on a par with the Caucasus and the Pamirs. Their lush alpine meadows, juniper forests and dozens of turquoise lakes embedded in an ocean of snow-capped peaks indeed make the area a paradise for hiking and alpinism.

The area offers excellent treks of varying difficulty ranging from a few hours to a few weeks in length. They will lead you along unspoilt rivers and lakes where shepherds graze their flocks and up to spectacular passes overseeing a world of rock and ice. The Fann Mountains are unique in terms of their microclimate too. Featuring extraordinarily stable weather and very low precipitation throughout the summer months, the area is among the safest alpine destinations worldwide in terms of reliably good weather. The best time for visiting is May-October for trekking. 6) Seven Lakes (various options from 2 - 5 days)

The Seven Lakes, the longest chain of lakes in Tajikistan, are one of the most attractive destinations in the region. Tours can be with jeep or combined jeep/hiking. A five-day adventure trek can be organised to the Artuch base camp (2200m), comprising high passes, rugged and pure natural scenery, colourful canyons and crystal clear streams (donkey porterage and overnight in tents). From Penjikent the first lake is 40km, by car a little over 2 hours. In the remarkable village of Shing which was partly destroyed in 1990s by mud slides, there is accommodation in local homestays. Further on your way you will see the very conservative religious village of Rashnai Poyon. Villagers follow very old rules and traditions and children are often sent to the madrasah rather than local schools. Starting from this village don’t be surprised when meeting women, that they turn away

and wait until you pass by. After breakfast you will have time to explore the village and taste mountain honey, which is made in Shing village. A little way from the village the 1st lake is Mijgon, “Eyelash”.

View from Tavassang pass

Nofin lake

Marguzor lake

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Through a small pass behind Mijgon is the the 2nd lake Soya, “Shadow” and nearby 3rd lake, Hushyor, “Vivacious”. At the top of a winding path lies the 4th and longest of the all Seven lakes – Nofin “Central” Lake. On the shore of the lake there is a small village with the same name – here there are homestays. Above the river is the beautiful village of Padrud – meaning “village on the river”. Almost all the houses are located under the foot of a mountain and in the shadow of big rocks. Here is one homestay very close to the river and sitting in a small pavilion you

can enjoy the noise and freshness of the river. Crossing Padrud village you will see the 5th lake: Khurdak, meaning “small” in Tajik. The 6th and biggest of the lakes, Marguzor, is considered to be the most beautiful one. On its shores there are several villages. The 7th lake is called Hazorchashma which means “thousand springs,” probably because its water comes from many small rivers and springs. Hazorchashma is the most peaceful lake in the area, because no villages are located next to it. Overnight: Traditional Homestay

River above Padrud village

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7) Kulikalon and Alauddin Lakes Resting high in the mountains surrounding the Zerafshan Valley of Tajikistan, Artuch Base Camp offers a comfortable place to relax in the fresh mountain air. From Artuch visitors can explore the famous lakes and mountains of the Fann Mountains. For nature lovers there is much to see and explore. In the Fann Mountains alone, over 40 lakes in all shades of shimmering blue. Surrounded by the high snow capped peaks including Chimtarga Peak, at 5494m it dominates the skyline, contrasting with the lush valleys

below. At Artuch you can explore and discover it all. Or simply rest and relax, swim or soak up the beauty all around.

7a) Artuch - Alp Base Camp (3 Days)

Day 1: Penjikent to Artuch Base Camp By 4 wheel drive vehicle from Penjikent into the heart of the Fann mountains. Stopping at the village of Mazar-i-Sharif, is the XIth Century Mausoleum of Muhammad Bashoro. Close to the mausoleum is the Museum of Loik Sherali, a famous 20th century local poet. The village has an elaborately decorated traditional teahouse.

Overnight: Private cottages or shared bunk rooms in Alp Base Camp Day 2: Chukurak Lake Short trek to Chukurak Lake (2455 m) and Ziyorat Lake. There are options for swimming, fishing & boating, or relaxing in the camp. This evenings meal will be the Traditional “Food of Kings”. Today we will share with you, our famous recipe and you can learn to prepare “Oshi Palov” and join in with cooking in the traditional way. Overnight: Private cottages or shared bunk rooms in Alp Base Camp Day 3: Artuch to Penjikent

Artuch can be visited for an overnight stay or as a base for trekking in the Fann Mountains, Kulikalon and Alauddin Lakes. The range of routes is vast and we have included just a few of the most popular treks. more information is available on www.zerafshan.info

Alauddin lake

Kuli kalon lakes

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7b) Artuch Alp Base Camp to Sarvoda (4 or 5 Days) Day 1: As above Day 2: Artuch Base Camp To Kulikalon Lakes (10km; +700m; 5hrs)

Trek up the Urej River valley to the upper of two dams (2-3 hours), on the other side of which is turquoise necklace of 14 Kulikalon Lakes framed in jagged ridges and summits over 5000m: known as the Kulikalon Wall.

Overnight: Tents by the lake shore Day 3: Trek over Alauddin Pass to Alauddin Lake (7km; + 950m; - 740m; 6hrs) Steep trek through alpine meadows to Alauddin Pass (3,860m). On the way up we see vultures and eagles hovering in the blue sky. We enjoy a birds-eye view of Dushaha Lake and the entire Kulikalon Lake system. Down in the valley bottom we see the blue speck of Alauddin Lake (in fact, one of two major lakes) varying in colour from lilac to deep turquoise and providing a stunning contrast against the backdrop of the Chimtarga peak (5489m). Overnight: tents, option of overnight in traditional homestay is available

Optional Day 4: Alauddin Lake to Mutnoe Lake (3540m). We steadily climb up the narrow and rather short U-shaped Alauddin valley and go round Mutnoe (“Muddy”) Lake, with its night reflection of the stars.

Overnight: Tents Day 5: Mutnoe to Sarvoda to Penjikent Descend from Mutnoe to Alauddin Lake: from here it is a short descent to the road, where our transport is waiting to transfer us back to Penjikent

From Sarvoda crossroad where this tour ends it is possible to return to Penjikent or begin any of the itineraries

Alpine meadow

Towards Chimtarga peak

Homestay in Alauddin lakes area

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7c) Trekking Alauddin Circuit (5 Days) Day 1 – 3 As above

Day 4: Laudan Pass to Kulikalon Returning to Kulikalon through an alternative pass where we stop for lunch before descending to the lakes. The water here is warmer and you might be tempted to swim in one of the lakes here. Overnight: In tents

Day 5: Kulikalon – Chukurak – Artuch Base Camp

Descend to the Chukurak Lakes (2600m) whose waters are coloured by tiny crustaceans. From here we continue a short distance down the valley to Artuch Base Camp. Overnight: Private cottages or shared bunk rooms in Alp Base Camp

7d) Alauddin to Iskanderkul Lake (6 Days)

This is the reverse of the Longer Iskanderkul Lake Trek 3c.

Alauddin lakes

Summer pasture

Alauddin lakes

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8) Northern Tajikistan & the Silk Road Cities

All transport by road, accommodation in hotel or guest houses.

Tajikistan Day 1: Penjikent to Khujand – formerly Alexandria Eskhata.

Local Museum Archeological Museum Local bazaar (Panjshanbe) Mausoleum of Sheikh Musleheddin

Standing at the entrance to the Fergana Valley on the banks of the Sir Darya River, Khujand is the 2nd largest city in Tajikistan. Alexander the Great founded a Greek settlement near the site of today's Khujand in 329 BC called the city of Alexandria Eskhata or "Alexandria The Furthest" - modern Khujand. It formed a bastion for the Greek settlers against the Scythian tribes to the north of the Syr Darya, which the Greeks called the Jaxartes. It became a major staging point on the northern Silk Road. Many of the medieval citadels and mosques have survived, making Khujand an extremely attractive city. Day 2: Istaravshan

Mug Tepa Hill Kakh Kakha Fortress Hazrati Shoh Mausoleum Kuk Gumbaz Mosque

Though close to Khujand, (80 km/1.5 hrs) Istarafshan is quite different in character from its neighbour. A well preserved old town it forms a maze of small alleys that wind through neighbourhoods of shady, mud-walled Central Asian homesteads. Sights include the fifteenth century Kuk Gumbaz Mosque, the Hafz-i-Sangin Mosque and the eighteenth century Hazrat-i-Shah Mosque and mausoleum complex. Istaravshan is also a handicrafts center, known for its woodcutting. Visit an 'ustokhana' or artisans' workshop.

Uzbekistan Tours can be extended to take in Samarqand, Bukhara, Khiva and Tashkent.

Fortress in Khujand

Hazrati Shoh mausoleum in Istaravshan

Traditional hand made dolls and souvenirs

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3. Profiles of Tajik incoming agents Alpines and tourism center Artuch LLC Artuch Mountaineering & tourist base covering an area of 50 hectares, in the heart of Fann Mountains, welcomes all visitors to our unique mountain region in Central Asia. Resting high in the mountains, which surround the Zerafshan Valley of Tajikistan, from Artuch visitors can explore over 40 lakes and mountains of the Fann Mountains. Surrounded by the high snow capped peaks including Chimtarga Peak at altitude of 5494m which dominates the skyline. At Artuch you can explore and discover it all. Or simply rest and relax, swim or enjoy the beauty all around. There are also options for boating, fishing and even horse back riding organized by Artuch. We provide a comfortable base for trekkers, with a choice of 2 bedroom cottages with private bathrooms, or modest 4 & 6 bunk rooms. In addition to services for mountaineers and mountain visitors Artuch offers a range of services and tours throughout Tajikistan. The tours combine stunning mountain scenery and fresh mountain air with an opportunity to meet with local communities that live here in the mountains, and to learn about the ancient traditions and cultures of this exotic and interesting country. Products and services All our tours are offered as tailor made packages and can be adjusted to suit the needs of the individual traveler or a group. Tours can be combined with other tours or additional excursions and trips. All tours are available from May until October. High Peaks of Fann Mountains: Trekking Through Chimtarga Pass 9 Days This moderate to challenging trekking tour takes us through Chimtarga Pass - the highest pass in the Fann Mountains at an altitude of 4700m. Tour includes transfers from Dushanbe. Overnight accommodation is provided in Artuch Base Camp. This is followed by an acclimatization trip to Chukurak Lake and then we then begin our 7 days trekking trip up to the Icy Mutnoe Lake and through the amazing Chimtarga Pass. Before arriving back in Artuch you will be able to enjoy our last night together with a celebration meal. Alauddin Lakes: Trekking 5 days Departure is from Artuch to Kuli Kalon Lake. Stopping for a swim is possible if the water is warm. We continue to Du Shakha Lake where we stay overnight in tents. Next day our trek takes us to Alauddin Lake, then returns by the peaceful route past Chukarak Lake. Return to the Basecamp and enjoy the traditional food of kings, where you might learn our secret recipe for Plov. Includes 3 nights camping and 2 nights in block rooms at Artuch. Short excursions and Optional Activities Swimming, boating and fishing Trekking Horse Riding Visits to rural village Transport Artuch provides transport services to and from the camp and to all points throughout Tajikistan. Transport includes 2 x large Bus Trucks for up to 25 people, 4 x 4 Minibuses suitable for up to 10 people, comfortable 4 x 4 vehicles for 3 or 4 people.

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Accommodation 3 levels of accommodation are offered at Artuch and in addition space for 15 tents in beautiful places near the river. Accommodation comprises comfortable private cottages each with 2 double rooms and one bathroom. In addition there are block rooms for either 4 or six people. Other services include dining room for 80 people, a banquet room for 30 people, a beer bar, herbal tea room, 24 hour shop - a minimarket. Equipment rental and support services Artuch has an extensive warehouse of equipment for rental to visitors, including tents, sleeping bags and backpacks. Services of all camp staff are available including cooks, guides, interpreters & donkey handlers and all support staff. Visa support A new simplified Visa application process has been introduced. Tajikistan is now one of the Central Asian countries where visas can be obtained in most simple and straight forward way. Prices and time for issuing at oversees consular offices have been standardized and simplified. Some countries do not need a Visa Support Letter (VSL) when applying for a visa. All other nationals need a VSL from a local travel agency that will be sent by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to the consulate processing the visa request. If required we can supply Visa Support Letter according to your request. In addition, nationals of 80 countries are able to obtain tourist visas at some points of entry, including Dushanbe International Airport. If we are meeting visitors at the airport we are able to offer support for this process. Support to alpinists Artuch provides radio telephones, detailed maps of Fan mountains, description of all ascents of surrounding peaks. This is a compact area which is fantastic for alpinists and mountaineering groups and Artuch are expert in providing all support services required by groups from 2 – 200 people. Guides and Instructors can be arranged. Contact details Muzafarov Abulkosim 85.Rudaki Street, Penjikent, 735500,Sogd Region, Tajikistan T: (8 992) 92 773 74 89, (8992) 3475 5 66 61 Fax: (+992) 3475 5 66 61 Email: artuch@bk.ru, kasim_muzafarov@mail.ru, atb.artuch@gmail.com www.zerafshan.info, www.artuch.tj, www.fany.ru, artuch.gallery.ru

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Durakhshi Sughd OLR Tourism company “Durakhshi Sughd” provides a wide variety of services such as:

Trekking in The Fan Mountains and in the Pamirs Services of guides – interpreters, rent of transport Active weekends and picnics in Shing Valley and Varzob Tours along Pamir Highway Hunting in rivers and lakes of Tajikistan, Visa and visa support

Durakshi Sughd is working in all areas of tourism in Tajikistan. The company offers services to those looking for active holidays and adventurous tours. We will organize traditional journeys such as: trekking, rafting, ascent on peaks of Fan – Pamir ranges, biking, mountaineering, rock climbing, cave exploration and horseback riding along the Great Silk Road. We have more than 45 – 50 attractive routes of different levels of difficulty for all kinds of special tourism. Our guests will quickly get acquainted with life of local people, their customs and traditions during travel. Tours are generally available from May until October. City tours and some excursions can be arranged throughout the year. Products and services “Durakhshi Sughd” guarantees the best service for tourists: arrival and departure transfers, transfers to sites, accommodation in hotels, reservation of air and railway tickets, excursion programme in each city, services of guides, instructors, conductors, interpreters in English, German, French. We will also provide you with all the necessary equipment for special tours, transportation by bus, microbus and auto car. Visa support A new simplified Visa application process has been introduced. Tajikistan is now one of the Central Asian countries where visas can be obtained in most simple and straight forward way. Prices and time for issuing at oversees consular offices have been standardized and simplified. Some countries do not need a Visa Support Letter (VSL) when applying for a visa. All other nationals need a VSL from a local travel agency that will be sent by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to the consulate processing the visa request. If required we can supply Visa Support Letter according to your request. In addition, nationals of 80 countries are able to obtain tourist visas at some points of entry, including Dushanbe International Airport. If we are meeting visitors at the airport we are able to offer support for this process. Contact details Kujov Kholmahmad 14/18 M.Sheralizoda (Fedina), Dushanbe, Penjikent, 735500, Sogd Region, Tajikistan T: (8 10 992 23475) 5 45 09, (8 10 992) 93 409 46 45 Fax: (8 10 992 23475) 5 45 09 Email: itour-penj@mail.ru www.zerafshan.info

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Orient Adventure LLC By choosing Orient Adventure, you are making a great choice for your journey in Tajikistan. We offer the highest available standards of the service. The accommodation is provided in comfortable tourist hotels, rural home stays, mountain camps or under canvas. Fresh local dishes will be prepared to your taste. Our guests leave with unforgettable memories and experiences of the people and places of Tajikistan. The company:

- organizes accommodation for tourists;

- organizes the excursion services in the cities of the republic;

- gives experienced mountain instructors and guides-interpreters;

- organizes visa support in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan;

- offers trekking, horseback riding tours, rock climbing;

- arranges transfers and transport services throughout Tajikistan. Among tourists and alpinists the most popular are the routes in Fan Mountains. The Fans are situated between Gissar and Zerafshan mountain ranges from Kishtutdarya to Fondarya. We also have routs to Pamir, visits to Bibi Fatima in hot springs, mausoleum and reconstructed house of Sufi Muborak Kadam, visit to the stone which was used as sundial 700 years ago, view of Karl Marks (6722m) and excursion to Zhamg. Products and services All our tours are offered as tailor made packages and can be adjusted to suit the needs of the individual traveler or a group. Tours can be combined with other tours or additional excursions and trips. All tours are available from May until October. Pearls of Fan Mountains, trekking 6 Days Trekking tour through the magnificent snow capped peaks of the Fan Mountains. The route is dotted with the famous lakes, collectively known as the Pearls of the Fan Mountains. Overnight is in tents or rural home stays, according to your preference. Combining exhilarating walking, with an opportunity to meet rural communities. Circular route from Penjikent town includes services of local guides, donkey handlers and cooks. Walking 6 – 7 hours per day, this tour is suitable for all active adults. Group size from 4 – 16 people. Old Sogdian Roads, trekking 7 Days Trekking through the beautiful high peaks of Western Tajikistan. This was the cradle of Central Asian civilization. Following the footsteps of ancient Sogdian people little has changed in these mountains since then. The panoramas are breathtaking here. Combined with visits to local museums and historical sites, enabling visitors to explore the art and culture of this fascinating ancient place. 7 Days. Suitable for moderately active people. Group size from 4 – 16 people. 7 Lakes, short trekking trip 3 Days Short trekking trip to one of the Highlights of Tajikistan. Each lake has its own character and colour. This short trip takes visitors from Penjikent through the Darakhtisurkh Canyon to Lake Hazorchashma, the 7th lake. Overnight is in tents in the mountains. All of our trekking tours include services of experienced mountain guides, donkey handlers and cooks. Accommodation in tents and all meals provided. Gentle trekking but basic fitness level is required. Groups from 4 – 30 people.

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Tajik Splendour, combined historical and nature tour 14 nights Popular tour from Dushanbe through the spectacular natural beauty of Tajikistan to the Ancient city of Samarkand, in Uzbekistan. Meeting with colourful local communities and discovering the warmth and renowned hospitality, visits to famous historical and cultural sites, including the site of the huge 14m Buddah in Nirvanah. This trip combines some gentle trekking with city tours and excursions which present the real highlights of the region. Group size from 2 – 30 people. Includes services of guides and all meals and accommodation. Transport Orient Adventure Offers rent of vehicles, transfers and picking up from Dushanbe International Airport and all points of entry to and from Tajikistan. Accommodation Orient Adventure can organize your accommodation in comfortable tourist hotels, guest houses, rural home stays and camping. According to your budget and requirements, our accommodation partners offer the highest available standards of the service. Visa support A new simplified Visa application process has been introduced. Tajikistan is now one of the Central Asian countries where visas can be obtained in most simple and straight forward way. Prices and time for issuing at oversees consular offices have been standardized and simplified. Some countries do not need a Visa Support Letter (VSL) when applying for a visa. All other nationals need a VSL from a local travel agency that will be sent by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to the consulate processing the visa request. If required we can supply Visa Support Letter according to your request. In addition, nationals of 80 countries are able to obtain tourist visas at some points of entry, including Dushanbe International Airport. If we are meeting visitors at the airport we are able to offer support for this process. Contact details Hamrokulov Olimkul 30 D. Boborajabov 38, Penjikent, 735500, Sogd Region, Tajikistan T: (8 992) 92 721 37 70, (8 992) (8 9923475) 5 58 17 www.zerafshan.info

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Pamir Travel LLC Tour agency "Pamir Travel Ltd" began in 1992, and since then has enjoyed fame and popularity as one of the best tour operators in Central Asia. Tajikistan, located in the heart of Central Asia, is surrounded by Uzbekistan, Kirghizstan, Afghanistan and China. Travel with us on the wide space of Central Asia, and also back in time along the routes of the Great Silk Road. Visit ancient and historical cities of Penjikent, Khujand, Istiravshan, Isfara, Hissar, Kabadian, Pamir, Vakhan, Ishkashim, Vrang, and Zong. Our routes pass from sun dried deserts up to high, snow covered peaks, which you will find in the wonderful mountainous country Tajikistan. Our company "Pamir Travel Ltd" organizes many different fascinating tours and services throughout Tajikistan and Central Asia. We are experts in aspects of travel, transport, transfers, visa support, airline tickets, accommodation, excursions and trekking. Including horse and camel riding, rafting, expeditions, climbing, jeep tours, adventure and activity holidays, historical and cultural tours. Our experienced local guides will ensure that your trip is filled with happy lasting memories of your time in Central Asia. Pamir Travel - your reliable partner in Tajikistan. Products and services All mountain activities are available from May to October. Other tours can be scheduled throughout the year. Tours are tailor made to suit your requirements, below are a sample of some of our most popular trips, which can be combined or adjusted as required. Cycling in the Fan Mountains: bike trekking 14 days/15 nights Unique cycling in some of the Central Asia’s most spectacular mountain sceneries. Mostly on tarmac roads with very little traffic. We will visit two countries and experience the ancient culture and heritage of both Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, including a visit to Samarkand. Expert guides have a lot of knowledge about local birds and wildlife and the many wonderful sights that are best experienced by bicycle. Group size: 2 – 20 people. Accommodation in hotels, home stays and tents. Sogdian Roads: jeep tour 3 or 4 days Beginning from Jartepo border crossing you arrive from Uzbekistan where Pamir Travel’s friendly guides will be to greet you. The short tour includes visits to the most ancient sites in Tajikistan, here in the cradle of Central Asian Civilization. It includes also visits to Penjikent and Khujand. The tour can return to Samarkand or continue with a flight to Dushanbe. Group size: 1 – 25 people. Accommodation in hotels and local guest houses. The Road of Alexander the Great: nights tour 15 days/14 nights Beginning in Tashkent in Uzbekistan, this tour offers hiking in the stunning mountain scenery including a visit to the Legendary Iskandurkul Lake. Following in Alexander’s footsteps we visit Ancient cities of Samarkand, Khujand and Istaravshan. Accommodation is mixture of guest houses, home stays and camping in the mountains. This is an active tour with some moderate levels of trekking suitable for regular walkers. A mountain bus will be used for the transport. Chukurak Glacier & Chimtarga Pass 15 days/14 nights This tour offers moderate to challenging trekking in the high peaks of the Fan Mountains. This is some of most spectacular and exhilarating trekking in Central Asia. Including day excursions to Chukurak Glacier at Energy Peak (5100m). Overnight stays will be in tents and local home stays. Our tour includes visits to the Legendary Iskandurkul Lake and ends with sightseeing tour to the Ancient city of Samarkand before heading to Tashkent. Group size 1 – 15 people.

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Pamir Highway 9 days/8 nights The tour begins with a spectacular flight through (not over!) the mountains from Dushanbe to Khorog, capital of the Mountainous Badakhshan Autonomous Region. From Khorog we take a 4WD vehicle through the stunning sights of the Pamir Highway, over the Ak-Baital Pass (at altitude of 4,650m, one of the highest stretches of road in the world). This tour follows the route from Khorog to Murgab, which was once the Shugnon branch of the ancient Silk Road. Accomodation in Traditional Pamir homestays. Group size from 1 – 25 people. Day Treks – with Picnic Lunch Pamir Travel offers relaxed mountain and lake side day trekking trips including picnic lunches in the most memorable scenic spots in Tajikistan. These excursions are perfect alone or combined with cultural and historical tours. Day treks are available from Penjikent, Dushanbe, Khujand and Pamirs. Including Seven Lakes, Iskandurkul, Varzob Gorge, Hissor and Gouzgarf Waterfall, including hot springs. Group size from 1 – 20 people. Seven Lakes: short tour 4 days /4 nights Arriving from Samarkand to Penjikent we visit the ancient sites and Museums of Penjikent before setting for gentle trekking in the fresh mountain air of the famous Fan Mountains. Camping is located close to Kulikalon Lake, where it is possible to stop and swim. Trekking past Mutnoe and Aloudin Lakes. Overnight stays in mountain camp Artuch. Group size from 2 – 20 people. Visa support A new simplified Visa application process has been introduced. Tajikistan is now one of the Central Asian countries where visas can be obtained in most simple and straight forward way. Prices and time for issuing at oversees consular offices have been standardized and simplified. Some countries do not need a Visa Support Letter (VSL) when applying for a visa. All other nationals need a VSL from a local travel agency that will be sent by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to the consulate processing the visa request. If required we can supply Visa Support Letter according to your request. In addition, nationals of 80 countries are able to obtain tourist visas at some points of entry, including Dushanbe International Airport. If we are meeting visitors at the airport we are able to offer support for this process. Transport Pamir travel has a large fleet of vehicles and experienced drivers suitable for traveling in mountain roads and can arrange transport and transfer services from all points in Central Asia. Accommodation Pamir Travel has its own home stay in Penjikent town where we can accommodate 14 people. In addition through our reliable accommodation partners we offer overnight stays in comfortable tourist hotels in large towns including Dushanbe, Khujand & Khorog and we can arrange your stay in guest houses or in traditional home stays throughout Tajikistan. According to your budget and requirements we have a range of accommodation services available. Contact details Hasanov Sadullo 735500, Penjikent, Tajikistan T: (8 992 37) 224 09 06, (8 992) 771 86 46 Email: sadullo@mail.ru www.travel-pamir.com

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Zerafshan Tourism Development Association The Zerafshan Tourism Development Association (ZTDA) is a new public community based organisation in Tajikistan created in March 2008. ZTDA aims to develop sustainable tourism in the region, adapted to local society, culture and the fragile environment. Today, ZTDA represents the interests of its members who provide tourist services ranging from accommodation in traditional home stays to transportation and mountain guides. As ZTDA is promoting community-based tourism and eco-tourism in particular, we pay attention to the ecological aspects by creating relevant tour packages and capacity building activities – we have also initiated ecological actions at the community level. The usual ZTDA tour is a combination of walking/hiking/trekking in the natural environment, combined with exploring the local culture and traditions. All the services, included in the tour package, are delivered by local services providers in an environmentally friendly way. In conducting the tour, guides, drivers and other services providers pay attention to the ecology. We also provide our tourists with some ecological, cultural and social tips for their travel, enabling them not only to find easily a common language with local people, but also to help to conserve the natural environment and the local cultural heritage. We are convinced that the best way to explore a local culture is to experience the way of life of the people from within the community, by staying at traditional home stays, exploring the village, enjoying folklore shows organised by villagers, getting to know old techniques of handicraft production, and visiting holy places and archaeological sites with the villagers. Our tours are for the tourists of all age groups: seniors, youth, as well as families with children. Products and services Seven beauties of shing: introduction to local traditions, hiking in the nature, visiting of archeological sites 3 days The tour begins with the visit of archeological places in Penjikent: Aincient Penjikent, Sarazm – the most aincient inhabit in Central Asia. Then the tour goes to the valley of Shing river, where you can see the beauty of seven lakes, situated in the valley. By staying in the local guesthouses for the night you can learn the traditions and culture of the valley’s inhabitants. The cradle of Zerafshan: trekking, introduction to local culture and traditions 5 days The 5 day tour will take you to the upper Zerafshan Valley, which runs east of Ayni for 200km. We will visit the Millennium village Veshab where inhabitants have preserved old traditions in their everyday life to this day. You will be introduced to the unique history of this remote district and explore its spectacular nature on short hikes. Pearls of Zerafshan: visit of Tajik historical places, hiking in the nature, introduction to local traditions 6 days Joining us on this tour will give you an opportunity to explore unique sceneries of the virgin nature, beauty of snow tops, blue mountain rivers and lakes of Zerafshan Valley. The tour will start in the capital of Tajikistan and go over Anzob pass to the Zerafshan Valley. In the Zerafshan Valley you will see the Lake of Alexander, the chain of four lakes called Alauddin lakes and the chain of Kuli Kalon lakes. We will visit Istarafshan – one of the most ancient cities in Tajikistan, which has been identified with Cyropolis sacked by Alexander. Alauddin lakes: hiking in the nature, introduction to local traditions and culture 4 days Tourists of this route will be in the most beautiful places of Allaudin lakes. The walk starts from Marguzar village and continues till the guesthouse that is situated at the three passes.

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Trekking tour The Golden Fans: trekking over the passes in fan mountains 11 days The route of this tour begins in the eastern part and ends in the western side of Fan Mountains. We will visit Ancient Penjikent and afterwards will go to alley of the Shing river. In our trekking we have to pass several of passes: Tovasang (3307m), Munora (3500m), Archamaidon and Dugdon (3812m). Hat of Alexander: hiking in the nature, introduction to the history of the region and to local traditions 4 days The route of this tour goes through east side of Fan Mountains. Throughout the route you have the chance to enjoy the beautiful nature of Iskandarkul lake. You will go around the legendary mount called “The hat of Alexander the Great”. You will be on Maslihat Teppa, where once the elderly people got together and discussed different issues of the village. Contact details Manuchehr Bakoev Hofizi Sherozi 47, 735500, Penjikent, Sogd Province, Tajiksitan T: (+992 3475) 5 63 39 Email: tic_panjakent@yahoo.de,info@ztda-tourism.tj www.ztda-tourism.tj

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Zurmich LLC Since 2006 Zurmich has specialized in trekking and mountain tours, including some of the most spectacular trekking in Central Asia, in the Fan Mountains of Tajikistan. With our knowledgeable, highly experienced local guides we offer trekking for all outdoor enthusiasts, hikers and trekkers. We will visit mountain villages and rural communities and have overnight stays in local home stays or tents. Enjoy walking in fresh mountain air, surrounded by high peaks and spectacular scenery. Our tours are:

accompanied by fully certified guides, speaking French, German or English; available from May to October; groups size is from 2 – 15 people; the luggage is carried by donkeys.

Zurmich promotes environmental awareness and protection of our cultural heritage and wonderful natural environment. Staff and guides are local people and accommodation is in local home stays. Our sustainability policy means we work closely with communities, to ensure visitors enjoy a wonderful experience in Tajikistan which provides maximum benefit to local people. In addition to trekking we offer short tours and road trips throughout Tajikistan, including the Pamirs traveling through canyons and over high mountain passes along the Afghan – Tajik border. Our trips include familiarization with local customs and traditions, visits to museums, cultural sites and fascinating ancient places. Products and services All our tours are tailor made to suit your requirements and can be combined or adapted to the needs. All include full board accommodation either in home stays or tents and include the services of experienced mountain guides, cooks and donkeys with handlers for transportation of luggage. Suitable for moderately active people who are used to walking. Trekking is not difficult but can be strenuous at times. Walking is usually 5 – 7 hours per day. Gold of Zerafshan Trekking 8 Days – 7 Nights Apart from the mountains, perhaps the most striking feature of Tajikistan is the riotous rainbow of colours. Lakes in every tone of blue, orchards, forests and flowers in vibrant shades and of course the people always dressed as brightly as their surroundings. We begin in the capital city Dushanbe with an introduction to the fascinating history of Tajikistan. Then we set off for the fresh air, crystal clear waters and snow capped mountains. By following the legendary footsteps of Alexander the Great, this tour includes a visit to Iskanderkul Lake. Pearls of Fann Mountains Trekking 9 Days Begining in Dushanbe or Penjikent our trekking takes us to the multicoloured lakes of the Fann Mountains. We will pass through the summer pastures with a chance to meet shepherds living there. We will go through high mountain passes surrounded by the high peaks of an altitude over 5000m. We will camp in tents and enjoy picnic lunches along the way. Stopping at Marguzor, Mutnaya, Alouddin, Kuli Kalon and Chukurak and Archamaidon Lake. Moderate trekking suitable for active walkers. Jeep tour at the Northern Tajikistan 11 days – 10 nights You will be introduced to the unique history of Northern Tajikistan, Ancient Sogdian which is associated with the Great Alexander who founded here the city of Alexandria – Askhatta and explore its spectacular nature. Accommodation is in national home stays where you will be surprised by Tajik hospitality and enjoy our national food. The tour is offered to see the ancient Mosques, Historical Fortress which reflects ancient and modern history of Tajikistan in Dushanbe and Sogd province.

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The New Silk Road of Tajikistan 14 day – 13 nights Tajikistan is trying to be in communication system of word market and for reaching this aim the new highway is being built which gives access to the Great Karokurum Highway going from China, Pakistan, India and Indian Ocean. The modern Silk Road of nowadays. Tour begins in Dushanbe and ends in Kyrgyzstan. Crossing this itinerary along Tajik – Afghan border you can see from sultry Sourth to Coldest peak of Mountain. A Tour for adventurers and Marco Polo of nowadays. Short Treks in Fann Mountains 6 days – 5 nights The beauty of the Fan Mountains is easily accessible even in a short trip. Overnight stays in tents at an altitude of 1000m till 3800m above sea level trough passes, excursion around most beautiful lakes of Alloudin and Kuli Kalon and peaks covered by junipers. Unforgettable meetings with local shepherds and spectacular sunset and sunrise, picnic in the high mountains, familiarization to villagers of mountain villages. Visa support A new simplified Visa application process has been introduced. Tajikistan is now one of the Central Asian countries where visas can be obtained in most simple and straight forward way. Prices and time for issuing at oversees consular offices have been standardized and simplified. Some countries do not need a Visa Support Letter (VSL) when applying for a visa. All other nationals need a VSL from a local travel agency that will be sent by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to the consulate processing the visa request. If required we can supply Visa Support Letter according to your request. In addition, nationals of 80 countries are able to obtain tourist visas at some points of entry, including Dushanbe International Airport. If we are meeting visitors at the airport we are able to offer support for this process. Transport LLC “Zurmich” has its own minibus (mountain) which can carry 10 people comfortably. In addition, we can offer 4 x 4 vehicles: Mitsubishi for 5 people, Chevrolet for people, Toyota for 4 people and provide drivers with more than 10 years driving experience in mountain roads. Drivers are Russian speaking. Accommodation LLC “Zurmich” has its own home stay in Penjikent town where we can accommodate 12 people. Zurmich can book an accommodation in Tourist Hotels in large towns including Dushanbe, Khujand & Khorog. In addition we can arrange your stay in guest houses or in traditional homestays, throughout Tajikistan. According to your budget and requirements we have a range of accommodation services available. Contact details Nizomov Nasriddin 24.Bakoli Street, Penjikent, 735500,Tajikistan T: (+992) 92 759 91 23, (+992) 3475 5 45 43 Fax: (+992) 3475 5 45 43 Email: zurnach@mail.ru www.zerafshan.info

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Pamirs Tourism Adventure, Ltd. Pamirs Tourism Adventure is a tour operator company located in the Pamir mountainous areas administratively known as Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) as part of the Republic of Tajikistan. This mountainous area contains 8 long routes via spectacular sceneries of wild, virgin nature with views to high sky-scraping mountains, such as Peak Karl Marx, and Engels, Hindukush mountain ranges and Mustagh-Ata Peak in Pakistan and China. We are specialized in providing a variety of tourism services such as transportation, food and lodging, home stays along the route, mountain trekking, horse-ridding and experienced English and German speaking guides for various areas in GBAO. In addition we give visa support for our clients wishing to visit the area and also obtain GBAO permits for this mountainous area where there are some restrictions.

Our advantage compared to other tourist organizations operating in the country is that we are based right in the destination and support our clients on the spot. The company serves all categories of tourists depending on their interests and requirements. We provide our services starting from May till the end of October, when it is the best season for visiting places with various complexities in different locations of this mountainous area.

Pamirs Tourism Adventure always receives good feedback from the clients. Products and services Jeep Tours Jeep tours on the Pamir Highway or along the Wakhan Corridor, visiting historical sites and staying in family homes in villages, is the choice of most tourists visiting the Pamirs for the first time. Jeep Tours can be combined with hiking and trekking. Hikes and Treks We organize moderate one-day hikes or challenging adventurous several-day treks, according to the wishes of the clients: the valley of the Vanj is wide and green; Yazgulem, more sparsely inhabited, is narrower and more rugged; the Fedchenko glacier can be reached from the top of both valleys; the Bartang valley offers the most varied scenery in the Pamirs. Stays in villages This will give you a new perception of the meaning of some common-place terms such as “happiness”, “poverty”, “hope” and “faith”. Contact details 736 000, Khorog, Tajikistan T: +992 93 500 99 47, +992 91 948 99 47 Email: pamirstourism@yahoo.com www.pamirs-tourism.org

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Pamir Silk Tour Company The Pamir Silk Tour Company has been providing high-quality professional services to tourists in Central Asia since 1997. We organize many different fascinating tours in Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan and China, tailored to the specific needs of tour operators and individual tourists: Our Services include:

- Mountain itineraries and trekking; - Adventure tours in the Pamirs and ecotourism; - Mountaineering in the Fan mountains and the Pamirs; - Treks in Great Pamir (Tajikistan) and Little Pamir (Afghanistan); - Combined tours Tajik and Afghan Pamirs; - Trek to the famous Wakhan corridor & Great & Little Pamir in Afganistan; - Ecotours to Jisev valley (Bartang); - Expeditions to high mountains of the Pamirs: Somoni (formerly Communism), Korjanevsky,

Lenin, Patkhor, Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels; - Tours in Penjikent and the Fann mountings; - Ethnographic and cultural visits throughout Central Asia; - Rafting on high mountain rivers: Murghab, Ghunt, Shakhdara & Bartang; - Jeep tours along the famous Silk Road; - Mountain Bike tours; - Wildlife observation (e.g. Marco Polo sheep) and photography; - Bird watching; - Horse-back trekking; - Camel trekking; - Helicopter excursions.

Our company has more then seven employees with good experience in the tourism sphere. The manager has a certificate “Management in Tourism” and has 26 year experience in this sphere. Most of our clients are from Europe and Russian (different ages, only 10% of them are families). Products and services Through The Pamir /Dushanbe-Darvaz (via Khaburrubat pass)-Bartang-Jizev-Ravmed-Kudara-Kara kul-Murgab-Yashil kul-Langar-Ishkashim-Khorog-Darvaz –Dushanbe (via Kulyab region) This tour is specially developed for acquaintance with the basic sites located on highways of the Pamir. Also short two-day track to one of the most beautiful valleys of Badakhshan is included. Tour starts and finishes in Dushanbe. During this tour tourists will learn about the history of the country and traditional music, dance, cooking, handicrafts etc. of the Pamirs and the local community of Tajikistan. Tourist will participate in discussions with local people and learn life of the hi mountain village (situated at an altitude of 3938 m). Trek to famous Sarez Lake 15 days, period for tours: June-September, number of tourists per group: 1-15 people Tour includes moving along a pedestrian track for 10 days. Some sites of a track demand big efforts and require tourists to be in a good health and physical condition. From Dushanbe to Osh Kyrgyzstan During this tour tourists will learn about the history and traditional music, dance, cooking, handicrafts etc. of the Pamirs and the local community of Tajikistan. Tourist will participate in discussions with local people and learn life of the hi mountain village (situated at an altitude of 3938 m).

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Tajik & Afghan Pamirs The tour start in Tajik and will continue to Afghan Badakhshan. During this tour tourist will experience the life of the local communities, living in both sides of the Pamirs in Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Photo Safari in Tajikistan The tour starts in the North part of Tajikistan from old Penjekent city and will finish in Kyrgyzstan. Soft rafting in Murgab river The Blow eyes of Pamir This tour will pass by 7 most beautiful lakes of the Pamirs. Expedition to peak Somony Contact details Shagarf Mullo-Abdol 1, Azizbek Street, 734000, Khorog, Tajikistan Email: info@pamirsilk.travel, pst_pamirs@yahoo.com www.pamirsilk.travel

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Tour de Pamir The "Tour de Pamir" ("TDP") organizes tourist excursion service for national and foreign tourists to the main attraction of the Pamirs. The office of the "TDP" is situated in Khorog, in the Republic of Tajikistan. "TDP" offers an opportunity to visit one of the most interesting mountain districts of our planet – the Pamirs (Tajikistan). Gorno - Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO, Pamir) in the Republic of Tajikistan – it is one of the highest uplands of the world. The mountains occupy 98 % of all territory of the region. The average height of the mountains is 5-6km, and highest peak is 7495m - I.Somoni's Peak (in the past - Communism peak). From year to year our highlands become more and more popular among the tourists, who appreciate visiting colorful places, the abundance of wild animals, vegetation and numerous hills. Products and services “TDP” provides tours where the tourists can see and enjoy the high-mountainous nature, can ascent the mountains and enjoy the wonderful views, can visit health resorts in the mountains and other exotic places like ancient architectural monuments, fortresses and sacred places. The “TDP” organizes both walking and automobile excursions. The “TDP” offers hunting of marmots, partridges, foxes, mountain goats and rams (arkhar). The “TDP” provides its customers with meals during all the tours. Also the necessary equipment, guides – interpreters, drivers and maps are provided. According to the requests of the customers it is possible to do a tailor-made tour. Contact details Fayzullobekov Ergash Rahmatov str.29.Khorog, 736100, GBAO,Tajikistan T: 00992935007557 Email: tourdepamir@yahoo.com www.pecta.tj

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Ajam Tour LLC Travel agency “Ajam Tour” is the company for which the opinion of each client is very important. We do not work for the sake of profit, our main purpose is the satisfaction of the customers that have chosen us. Located in Dushanbe, we offer various tours to all directions of Tajikistan from north to south, from east to west. Also, with our excursion tours you have an opportunity to get acquainted with rich culture, language and life of the Tajik people. For many tourists, it is the country which attracts with the ancient history and languages that have remained here. You will be surprised also with the landscapes of the wild nature, which our hospitable country is generously presenting. The best hotels, restaurants and other entertaining complexes are waiting for fans of convenience and comfort. And for the those, wishing to gain some more extreme experience, we have prepared special tours: climbing, rock-climbing and Mountain Rivers. This will give you enough adrenaline and positive experience that you will not forget in all your life.

We have the certificate of touristic activity given by the Committee of Youth, Sport & Tourism of Tajikistan. Our tours can be realized in any time of season, they are proper for all category of people (woman, man, couples, elder people, youth, children, scientists, historians, groups, students. etc.)

Our services: Booking of hotels; Cottage Rent; Registration of invitations; Translation of documents and certification.

Our company is engaged in translation of documents in seven languages (English, German, French, Japanese, Chinese, Russian, Tajik, Persian, Dari) on various subjects. Also we certify all necessary documents translated into foreign languages. Products and services We offer various tours to historical places of Tajikistan which basically lie on the Great Silk Road. Jeep Tour to Pamir 13 days / 12 nights Discover Pamir This trip covers the most interesting places of the mountains and the country itself. Stunning mountains, spectacular road on Tajik-Afghan border and drive along the ancient Silk Road. Arid plateaus of high Pamir, meetings with hospitable inhabitants in summer pastures and remote villages. Observe many different geographical sceneries and landscapes and listen to local music. Guiding services are offered by company guides, fluently speaking English and many other foreign languages. Maximum group size: 12 people. Contact details: Asadbek Shikorbekov 64 S.Sherozi Av., Dushanbe, 734043, Republic of Tajikistan T: (+992) 48 700 69 07, 93 534 35 53 www.ajamtour.com