PORTUGAL

Lisboa OverviewAt sunset, the scarlet glow cast over the Rio Tejo is matched by the ruby red shimmer inside your glass of vinho do porto. Welcome to Lisboa. A magnificent history has left its mark upon this ancient city: illustrious bronze figures stand proud in open plazas, Roman arches and columns inspire reverence in visitors, and a towering 12th-century castle keeps watch from atop one of the city’s infamous seven hills. Lisboa is quickly becoming one of the most talked-about capitals in Europe, driven by cutting-edge fashion, flourishing art and music scenes, and relentlessly enthusiastic nightlife. Graffiti adorns the time-worn walls of Bairro Alto and Santa Catarina, and at night the cobblestone sidewalks echo with the modern rhythms of local clubs. A monumental past may loom over every corner of the city, but Lisboa is thriving in the present. Immigrants and visitors from all around the world give Lisboa an international feel that is hard to come by anywhere else in Portugal. Crowds of unique people—street performers, break dancers, and peddlers of various sorts—line the streets of Baixa and Bairro Alto, giving the city its diverse and distinctive flavor. Complexity is not new to Lisboa. Half a dozen civilizations claim parenthood of the city, beginning with the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians. The Romans arrived in 205 BC and ruled for 600 years. Under Julius Caesar, Lisboa became one of the most important port cities in Lusitania, and in 1255, Lisboa was made the capital of Portugal. The city, along with the empire, reached its zenith at the end of the 15th century, when Portuguese navigators pioneered explorations of Asia, Africa, and South America during the Age of Discovery. A catastrophic earthquake on November 1, 1755 catalyzed the nation’s fall from glory—close to one-fifth of the population died, and two-thirds of Lisboa was destroyed in the resulting fires. Immediately, the Prime Minister Marquês de Pombal began a massive reconstruction effort, an overhaul that explains the contrast between the neat, grid-like layout of Baixa and the hilly mazes of surrounding areas. Twentieth-century Lisboa saw plenty

of change, as new technologies complemented the traditions of the past. Temples, castles, and cathedrals left behind by prior civilizations, juxtaposed with crowded plazas, buzzing cafes, and blaring discotecas,give Lisboa a life of its own.

PRAcTicAL infORmATiOn

TOURisT And finAnciAL seRvices Tourist Office: Palácio da Foz, Pr. dos Restauradores (Portugal line ☎213 46 63 07, Lisboa line ☎213 46 33 14). M: Restauradores. The largest tourist office, with info for all of Portugal. Open daily 9am-8pm. The Welcome Center, Pr. do Comércio (☎210 31 28 10), is the main office for the city. Sells tickets for sightseeing buses and the Lisboa Card, which includes transportation and entrance to most sights, as well as discounts at various shops, for a flat fee (1-day ☎15, 2-day ☎26, 3-day ☎32; children age 5-11 ☎8/13/16). English spoken. Open daily 9am-8pm. An airport branch (☎218 45 06 60) is by the airport entrance. English spoken. Open daily 7am-midnight. For info, check kiosks that read “Ask me about Lisboa” in Santa Apolónia, Belém, and other locations.

Budget Travel: Movijovem, R. Lúcio de Azevedo, 29 (☎707 23 32 33; www.pousadasjuventude.pt). M: São Sebastião. Make reservations at Hostelling International youth hostels all over Portugal. Open daily 9am-7pm.

Currency Exchange: Banks are open M-F 8:30am-3pm. Cota Câmbios, Pr. Dom Pedro IV, 41 (☎213 22 04 80). Open daily 8pm-10pm. Sells 2hr. phone cards to the US and European land lines for ☎5. Western Union inside for money transfers. The main post office, most banks, and travel agencies also change money. Exchanges line the streets of Baixa. Ask about fees first—they can be exorbitant.

LOcAL TRAnsPORTAiOn Lisboa and its surrounding areas have an efficient public transportation system with subways, buses, trams, and funiculars run by CARRIS (☎213 61 30 00; www.carris.pt), and therefore no suburb takes longer than 1hr. to reach. If you plan to stay in Lisboa for long, consider a passe turístico, good for unlimited travel on all CARRIS transports. Passes are available for one day (☎3.50). CARRIS booths, located in most network train stations and the busier metro stations (e.g., M: Restauradores), sell multi-day passes. (Open daily 6:30am-1pm.)

Buses: ☎1.35 within the city; pay on the bus. Exact change not required.

Metro: (☎213 50 01 00; www.metrolisboa.pt). ☎0.75 per ride, round-trip ☎1.40, unlimited daily use ticket ☎3.50, 10 tickets ☎9.85. You must purchase a rechargable card for ☎0.50 to use the subway. 4 lines, crossing downtown and business district. A red “M” marks metro stops. Trains run daily 6:30am-1am, though some stations close earlier.

Trams: ☎1.35. Many date from before WWI. Line #28 is great for sightseeing in Alfama and Mouraria (stop in Pr. do Comércio). Line #15 heads from Pr. do Comércio and Pr. da Figueira to Belém, Av. 24 de Julho, and Docas de Santo Amaro.

Funiculars: ☎1.35. Funiculars link the lower city with the residential areas in the hills. Elevador da Glória goes from Pr. dos Restauradores to Bairro Alto (3min., every 5min.).

Taxis: Rádio Táxis de Lisboa (☎218 11 90 00), Autocoope (☎217 93 27 56), and Teletáxis (☎218 11 11 00). Along Av. da Liberdade and Rossio. Luggage ☎1.60.

Car Rental: Agencies have offices at the airport, train stations, and downtown; ask for specific locations. Avis, Av. Marechal Craveiro Lopes, 2 (☎217 54 78 25; www.avis.com.pt); Budget, R. Castilho, 167B (☎213 86 05 16, fax 213 83 09 78; www.budgetportugal.com); Hertz, R. Castilho, 72A (☎213 81 24 30; www.hertz-europe.com).

TRAins Pre-Pay Your Way. Ask at the airport tourist office (☎218 45 06 60; open 7am-midnight) about the voucher program, which allows visitors to pre-pay for cab rides from the airport (M-F ☎15, Sa-Su ☎18).

Train service in and out of Lisboa routinely confuses newcomers, as there are three stations in Lisboa and one across the river in Barreiro, each serving different destinations. Buses, although more expensive and lacking toilets, are faster and more comfortable. The two train lines with service to Cascais and Sintra (and stops along the way) are most reliable. Contact Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses for further info. (☎808 20 82 08; www.cp.pt. Open daily 7am-11pm.)

Estação do Barreiro, across the Rio Tejo. Has southbound trains. Accessible by ferry from the Terreiro do Paço dock off Pr. do Comércio (30min., 2 per hr., ☎2.10). Trains go to Pinhal Novo (25min., every 25min., ☎1.25) and Setúbal (20min., every 40min., ☎1.75). To get to Évora and Lagos , take a train to Pinhal Novo station and transfer. From Pinhal Novo, trains go to Lagos (3hr., 5 per day 9:04am-8:04pm, ☎18) and Évora (1hr., 3 per day, ☎8.50).

Estação Cais do Sodré, just beyond the end of R. do Alecrim, a 5min. walk from Baixa. M: Cais do Sodré. Take the metro or bus #36, 45, or 91 from Pr. dos Restauradores or tram #28 from Estação Santa Apolónia. The station is across R. 24 de Julho, on the river side. To the monastery in Belém, take trains labeled “Cascais Todos” or “Oeiras,” which stop in: Belém (10min., 4 per hr. 5:30am-1:30am, ☎1.15); Cascais and Estoril (40min., 2 per hr. 5:30am-1:30am, ☎1.65); and the youth hostel in Oeiras (20min., 2 per hr. 5:30am-1:30am, ☎1.30).

Estação Rossio, M: Rossio or Restauradores. Travels west. Its destinations, Sintra and Queluz, can be reached using metro connections to other stations or the bus system. You can get off at M: Rossio and walk across the praça for 2 blocks until you see the station on your right. Alternatively, you can get off at M:Restauradores, and go down Av. da Liberdage, and the station will be on your right. The Estação de Sete Rios on the top fl. of M: Jardim Zoológico sends trains every 20min. to Queluz (☎1.20) and Sintra (☎1.65).

Estação Santa Apolónia, Av. Infante Dom Henrique. Runs the international, northern, and eastern lines. All trains stop at Estação Oriente (M: Oriente) by the Parque das Nações. The ticket office is open M-F 5:30am-1030pm and Sa-Su 6am-10:30pm. There is a currency exchange station and an information desk (English spoken). To go downtown, take bus #9, 46, or 59 to Pr. dos Restauradores. To: Aveiro (2☎hr., 16 per day 6am-9:30pm, ☎24-35); Braga (3☎hr.; 7am, 1:55, 4, 6:55pm; ☎21.50-30); Coimbra (2hr., 24 per day 6am-9:30pm, ☎15-20.15); Madrid (10hr., 10:05pm, ☎70); Porto (3-4hr., 20 per day 5:55am-7:55pm, ☎19.50-27).

By BUs

The bus station in Lisboa is close to the Jardim Zoológico metro stop, but it can be tricky to find. Once at the metro stop, follow the exit signs to Av. C. Bordalo Pinheiro. Exit the metro and go around the corner. Walk ahead 100m and then cross left in front of Sete Rios station. The stairs to the station are on the left.

Rede Expressos (☎707 223 344; www.rede-expressos.pt). To: Braga (5hr., 20 per day 7am-12:15am, ☎17.50); Castelo Branco (2-3hr., 13 per day 8am-10:30pm, ☎11.50); Coimbra (2hr., 25 per day 7am-12:15am, ☎12); Évora (2hr., 22 per day 7am-10:30pm, ☎11); Faro (4hr., 12 per day 7am-1am, ☎17.50); Lagos (4-5hr., 13 per day 7:30am-1am, ☎17.50-18);

Peniche (1-2hr., 11 per day 7am-10pm, ☎7.50); Portalegre (4hr., 10 per day 7:30am-8pm, ☎13); Porto (3-4hr., 19 per day 7am-12:15am, ☎16.50); Tavira (5hr., 10 per day 7am-1am, ☎17.50-18).

siGhTsWith 3000 years of history, Lisboa has acquired a fascinating aesthetic pedigree. Moorish azulejos (painted tiles) adorn the Alfama district; the 12th-century Sé cathedral maintains a tough Romanesque stone facade, contrasting with the elaborate Manueline monastery in Belém, which features excessive ornamentation reflective of Portugal’s glory during the Age of Discovery. The Neoclassical design of Praça do Comércio’s triumphal Roman arch marks a return to the simpler forms favored by the Marquês de Pombal’s post-earthquake rebuilding. But Lisboa’s beauty speaks of the present as well, from the sleek, modern Parque das Nações to the expressive, graffitied streets of Bairro Alto. Those planning to do a lot of sightseeing in a few days should consider purchasing the Welcome Center’s Lisboa Card for a flat fee . Museums and many sites are closed on Mondays and free on Sundays before 2pm.

BAixA

Although Baixa claims few historical sights, the lively pedestrian traffic and dramatic history surrounding the neighborhood’s three main praças make it a monument on its own. Beware Baixa’s softly cooing pigeons, well-trained by countless statues of distinguished leaders on which they’ve made their mark.

Around Rossio. Begin your tour of 18th-century history Lisboa at its heart: Rossio, or Praça Dom Pedro IV as it is more formally known. The city’s main square was once a cattle market, public execution stage, bullring, and carnival ground. Today, it is the fast-paced domain of tourists and ruthless local drivers circling Pedro’s enormous statue, and shadier characters by night. Another statue, this one of Gil Vicente, Portugal’s first great dramatist, peers from

atop the Teatro Nacional de Dona Maria II (easily recognized by its large, Parthenon-esque columns) at one end of the praça.

Around Praça Dos Restauradores. In Praça dos Restauradores, a giant obelisk celebrates Portugal’s hard-earned independence from Spain, achieved in 1640 after 60 years of Spanish rule. The obelisk stands by a bronze sculpture of the “Spirit of Independence,” a reminder of the centuries-old Spanish-Portuguese rivalry. The tourist office is housed at Palácio da Foz, and shops line the praça and C. da Glória, the hill that leads to Bairro Alto. Pr. dos Restauradores is also the start of Avenida da Liberdade, one of Lisboa’s most elegant promenades. Modeled after the boulevards of 19th-century Paris, this mile-long thoroughfare ends at Praça do Marquês de Pombal. There, an 18th-century statue of the Marquês still watches over the city he whipped into shape 250 years ago.

Around Praça Do Comércio. After the earthquake of 1755 leveled this section of Lisboa, the Marquês de Pombal designed the new streets to serve as a conduit for goods from the ports on the Rio Tejo to the city center. The grid formed perfect blocks, with streets designated for specific trades: sapateiros (shoemakers), douradores (gold workers), and bacalhoeiros (cod merchants) each had their own avenue. The roads lead to Praça do Comércio, on the banks of the Tejo. Today the praça, watched over by a 9400 lb. statue of Dom João I, serves as a tourist hub, providing a wide and inviting space between the Tejo’s many boats and the city’s buzzing crowds.

BAiRRO ALTO

Museu Arqueológico Do Carmo. Located under the fantasy-like skeletal arches of an old church destroyed in the catastrophic 1755 earthquake, this partially outdoor museum allows visitors to get up close to historical relics like a 16th-century coat of arms. Check out the two Peruvian mummies and the Egyptian sarcophagus inside. (On Largo do Carmo. Open M-Sa Oct.-Mar. 10am-6pm; Apr.-Feb. 10am-7pm. ☎2.50, students ☎1.50, under 14 free.)

Cemitério Dos Prazeres. At the cemetery, hundreds of small

family mausoleums are lined together, forming a genuine city of the dead. Many of these mini-buildings have broken doors or glass pane windows, allowing you to see inside (if you want to). Watch out, as some of the older ones have broken coffins. The easily-frightened may want to visit in the assuring light of day. (Pr. S. João Bosco. 213 96 15 11. Take tram #28 to the end of the line, in the opposite direction as you would for the castle. Open daily Oct.-Apr. 9am-4:30pm; May-Sept. 9am-5:30pm. ☎1.35.)

Elevador De Santa Justa. This historic elevator, built in 1902 inside a Gothic wrought-iron tower, once served as transportation up to Bairro Alto, but now takes tourists up 45m to the top. There is a small cafe where visitors can have a drink while enjoying a view of the city. Avoid the elevator on weekends—there’s a huge line. (Runs daily 7am-8:45pm. ☎2.80 round-trip.)

Basílica Da Estrela. Directly across from the Jardim da Estrela, the Basílica da Estrela dates back to 1796 and casts an imposing presence over the Praça. Its dome, poised behind a pair of tall belfries, towers over surrounding buildings to take its place in the Lisboa skyline. The desperate Dona Maria I promised God anything and everything if she were granted a son. When a baby boy was finally born, she built this church, and today, architecture aficionados are grateful. Ask to see the 10th-century nativity. (Pr. da Estrela. Accessible by metro or tram #28 from Pr. do Comércio. 213 96 09 15. Open daily 7:45am-8pm. Free.)

Igreja De São Roque. When the Catholic church brought Saint Roque’s bones and other relics to Lisboa from Spain in the 1500s, they had not intended to build a church in his name. But when the epidemic-inducing rodents terrorizing Lisboa miraculously vanished upon his arrival, Sr. Roque became a São (saint); a Jesuit church with all the bells and whistles of the era was quickly built in his honor. Inside, the Capela de São João Baptista (fourth from the left) blazes with agate, lapis lazuli, and precious metals. Considered a masterpiece of European art, the chapel caused a stir upon its installation in 1747 because it took three ships to transport the church from Rome, where it was built. The ceiling is covered by a magnificent painting portraying scenes from the life of Jesus. (Lg. Trindade Coelho. 213 23 53 80. Open daily 8:30am-5pm, holidays

8:30am-1pm.)

Parks. Across from the Basílica on Lg. da Estrela, the wide paths of the Jardim da Estrela wind through flocks of pigeons, happily quacking ducks, and lush flora. (M: Rato. With your back to the metro stop, follow R. Pedro Álvares Cabral, the 2nd road from the left in the traffic circle, for 10min. You can also take tram #28 from Barrio Alto. Open daily 6am-midnight.) More greenery awaits uphill along R. Dom Pedro V at the Parque Príncipe Real, which connects to the Jardim Botánico. For a good view, head to the Parque de São Pedro de Alcântara. The Castelo de São Jorge in Alfama occupies the cliff opposite the park, and Bairro Alto twinkles below.

sãO seBAsTiãO

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian. Perhaps Portugal’s biggest fan ever, native Armenian Calouste Gulbenkian was so charmed when he visited in 1942 that he stayed in the same hotel in Lisboa for 13 years, until his death in 1955. In his will, the millionaire left his extensive art collection (some of it purchased from the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia) to Portugal. The collection is divided into sections of ancient art—Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Mesopotamian, Islamic, and Oriental—and European pieces from the 15th to 20th centuries. Highlights include the Egyptian room, Rembrandts, Monets, Renoirs, Rodins, Manets, and a collection of ancient coins. (Av. Berna, 45A. M: São Sebastião. From the main entrance of El Corte Inglés, follow the main road, Av. Augusto Antonio de Aguiar, downhill until you see the sign for the “Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.” Take a right up the staircase, climb another set of stairs, and the Museu is across the parking lot. Bus #16, 26, 31, 46, 56. 217 82 30 00; www.gulbenkian.pt. Open Tu-Su 10am-5:45pm. ☎4, pass for both the Gulbenkian and the CAMJAP ☎7. 50% discount for students, teachers, and seniors everyday; free on Su.)

Centro De Arte Moderno. Though not as famous as its neighbor, this modern art museum promotes Portuguese talent from the late 19th century to the present. The center also places an emphasis on works originating from Portugal’s former colonies across the globe. Don’t miss the sculpture gardens that separate the two

museums. (R. Dr. Nicolau Bettencourt. M: São Sebastião. From the main entrance of El Corte Inglés, follow the steep Rua Marquês de Fronteira downhill, take a left before the palace, the Ministério do Exército; the Centro will be on your right about 200m farther. Bus #16, 26, 31, 46, 56. 217 82 30 00. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. ☎4. Students, teachers, and seniors get a 50% discount. Su free for general public.)

ALfAmA

Castelo De São Jorge. Built by the Moors in the 11th century, the castle was conquered by Don Alfonso Enriquez, first king of Portugal, then converted into a playground for the royal family between the 14th and 16th centuries. The towers and castle walls allow for a spectacular panoramic view of Lisboa and the Rio Tejo. (218 80 06 20; www.egeac.pt. Open daily Mar.-Oct. 9am-9pm; Nov.-Feb. 9am-6pm. ☎5, students ☎2.50, with Lisboa card ☎3.50, under 10 or over 65 free.)

Lower Alfama. The small white Igreja de Santo António was built in 1812 over the saint’s alleged birthplace. The construction was funded with money collected by the city’s children, who fashioned altars bearing saintly images to place on doorsteps. The custom is reenacted annually on June 13, the saint’s feast day and Lisboa’s biggest holiday, which draws out thousands and involves a debaucherous festival the night before. The church is located on R. da Alfândeo, which begins two blocks away from Pr. do Comércio and connects Baixa and lower Alfama. (Veer right when you see Igreja da Madalena in Lg. da Madalena on the right. Take R. de Santo António da Sé and follow the tram tracks. 218 86 91 45. Open daily 8am-7pm. Mass daily 11am, 5, and 7pm.) In the square beyond the church is the 12th-century Sé de Lisboa. The cathedral’s interior lacks the ornamentation of the city’s other churches, but its age and treasury make it an intriguing visit. (218 86 67 52. Open daily 9am-7pm except during mass, held Tu-Sa 6:30pm, Su 11:30am and 7pm. Free. Treasury open M-Sa 10am-5pm. ☎2.50, students ☎1.50. Cloister open daily May-Sept. 2-7pm; Oct.-Apr. M-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 2-6pm. ☎2.50, students ☎1.25.)

GRAçA Panteão Nacional. The National Pantheon was originally meant to be the Igreja da Santa Engrácia; the citizens of Graça started building the church in 1680 to honor their patron saint. Their ambitions outstripped their finances, however, and they abandoned the project before completing the dome, leaving a massive hole in the top. General Salazar’s military regime eventually took over construction, dedicating it as the National Pantheon, a burial ground for important statesmen, in 1966. In a twist of irony, when democracy was restored in 1975, the new government relocated the remains of prominent anti-Fascist opponents to the building and prohibited those who had worked with Salazar from entering. The dome juts out from among the other old buildings of Graça, providing an amazing view of Lisboa from the outdoor terrace. Highlights include the tombs of presidents as well as cenotaphs (honorary tombs for people buried elsewhere) for explorers. The Pantheon houses the remains of Amália Rodrigues, the queen of fado, and the cenotaphs of Vasco da Gama, the famous Portuguese explorer, and Luis de Camoes, the legendary poet of Portugal. (To reach the Panteão, take the #28 tram from R. Do Loreto or R. Garrett. 218 85 48 20 ; fax 218 85 48 39. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. ☎2.50, seniors ☎1.25. Free Su and holidays) Igreja And Mosteiro De São Vicente De Fora. Built between 1582 and 1629, the Igreja is dedicated to St. Vincent, Lisboa’s official patron saint, though Lisboa tends to celebrate its adopted patron saint, St. Antony, much more. Ask to see the sacristia (chapel) with its inlaid walls of Sintra marble and the Madre de Deus crib. (From the bottom of R. dos Correeiros in Baixa, take bus #12 or tram #28. You can also go to M: Santa Apolonia and walk upthill. 218 82 44 00. Open daily 10am-6pm except for mass. Mass Tu and F 9:30am, Sa-Su 10am. Free. Chapel open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. ☎2.) Feira Da Ladra. Every Tuesday and Saturday between the Panteão and Igreja de São Vicente, local vendors hit the streets in the early morning for the Graça “thieves market.” Merchants bring piles of goods, from Beatles paraphernalia to African sculptures, and passersby are encouraged to make an offer. Get steals on old wristwatches and cameras, dig through piles of jewelry, or admire handmade chandeliers and crucifixes. (Tu and Sa 8am-late afternoon.)

Museu Nacional Do Azulejo. Housed within the 16th-century Convento da Madre de Deus, this museum is devoted to the art of the azulejo (see Architecture, ). A Manueline doorway leads into a Baroque interior embellished with oil paintings and azulejos. Don’t miss the chorus room on the second floor, and notice the royal skulls on both sides of the room. (R. Madre de Deus, 4. East of Alfama in Xabregas. From Pr. do Comércio, just next to the giant arch, take bus #104 or 105. From M: Santa Apolonia cross the street and take bus #28 or 754. The museum is next to the Igreja Madre de Deus. 218 10 03 40; www.mnazulejo-ipmuseus.pt. Open Tu 2-6pm, W-Su 10am-6pm. Last entrance 5:30pm. ☎4; under 25, seniors, and teachers ☎2. Free Su before 2pm.)

AccOmmOdATiOns And cAmPinG Pensões and budget hotels abound in Lisboa, but room quality varies significantly—ask to see the room before paying. During the summer, expect to pay ☎20-30 for a single and ☎35-45 for a double, depending on amenities. You can usually find a room in the summer with little or no notice, but you may want to book in advance during mid-June for the Festa de Santo Antonio. In the low season (Oct.-Apr.), prices generally drop ☎5 or more, so try bargaining. Many establishments only have rooms with double beds, and charge per person. Backpacking hostels have only recently hit the Lisboa scene, with most opening their doors within the last year or two. Most are found in Bairro Alto, and are very similar in setup: mixed four- to eight-person dorms, shared bathrooms, a common living room, and free internet access. They do differ slightly in amenities, but most are comfortable and run ☎18-20 in the summer. Due to online booking, they fill up fast, so reserve ahead.

Several hotels can be found in the center of town on Av. da Liberdade, while cheaper pensões cluster in Baixa and Bairro Alto. Avoid those surrounding Rossio: while they’re very convenient, they’re usually around ☎10 more than the norm. Look around Baixa’s R. da Prata, R. dos Correiros, and R. do Ouro (R. de Aurea) for cheaper accommodations. Lodgings near Castelo de São Jorge are quieter and closer to the sights, but more difficult to reach. Be

careful at night, especially in the poorly-lit, winding streets of Alfama and in Bairro Alto. Bairro Alto is generally safe until the bars close at 4am, but it pays to be alert.

Camping is reasonably popular in Portugal, but campers can be prime targets for thieves. Stay at an enclosed campsite and ask ahead about security. There are 30 campgrounds within a 45min. radius of the capital. The most popular, Lisboa Camping, is inside the 900-acre parque florestal, and has a four-star rating. (217 62 82 00; www.lisboacamping.com. Adults ☎6, children under 12 ☎3, tents ☎6-7, cars ☎4. Prices are lower in winter. Bungalows available.)

dAy TRiPs fROm LisBOA

mAfRA

Mafrense buses run from Lisboa’s Campo Grande and stop in the square across from the palace (the “Mafra Convento” stop). Buses from Mafra serve Lisboa (1hr.; hourly M-F 5:26am-9:20pm, Sa 5:30am-8:44pm, Su and national holidays 6:23am-9:56pm; ☎3.40), Sintra (40 min; every hr. M-F 6:20am-7:35pm, Sa 7:30am-7:30am, Su 9:00am-7:30pm, ☎2.60),and Ericeira (20min.; every hr. M-F 7:36am-12:32am, Sa 7:36am-12:32pm, Su and national holidays 8:05am-12:33am; ☎1.70). Don’t take the train from Lisboa’s Estação Santa Apolónia unless you’re up for the 7km walk to Mafra; cabs are rare by the station. To return to Ericeira, walk down Terreiro de D. J. V and veer left. Continue down Av. 25 de Abril. The stop is on the right-hand side of the road about 50 ft. from the gas station.

Mafra is a tiny country village with an enormous claim to fame: the Palácio Nacional de Mafra . Built by Dom João V as a “hunting palace,” and made famous by Saramago’s Memorial do Convento, the building took 50,000 workers and 30 years to build. Its unusual monastery has its own hospital-chapel hybrid, where patients’ bed curtains were pulled back for mass. There is also the chilling Sala de Penitência (Penance Room), where the Franciscan monks performed self-flagellation—notice the four-sided cage for mad monks. The Sala do Trono (Throne Room), where the king gave his speeches, is covered with murals representing his eight ideal

virtues, starting with “perfectio” (perfection). The Sala da Caça (Hunting Room) is decorated with antlers and heads of all kinds—the chairs, the tables, and even the chandelier are all made of elk antlers. The most impressive space is the palatial biblioteca (library) containing 40,000 volumes from the 16th-18th centuries, many of which were bound by the monks. The monks were fastidious about the preservation of books, bringing a colony of bats into the library to eat insects and other would-be book vandals; a few bats still come out from the ancient bookshelves at night. (261 81 75 50. Open M and W-Su 10am-5pm, last entrance at 4:30pm. Daily 1hr. tours in English and Portuguese 11am and 2:30pm. ☎4, students and seniors ☎2.50, under 14 free; Su before 1:30pm free. Palácio tickets sold in the room to the left of the main palace steps. Basílica open daily 10am-1pm and 2-5pm. Free.) For a quality bargain meal, try the cozy, wood-adorned A Toca da Raposa, R. 1 de Dezembro, 2B. From the palace entrance, cross the street to the shops, go downhill on R. J. M. Costa one block, and turn right. Serves up a variety of fresh Portuguese dishes, though vegetarian options are limited. (261 81 51 22. Entrees ☎7-14. Open M-Su noon-2:30pm, W-Sa 7-9:30pm.) The tourist office is inside the palace compound, to the right of the large church entrance. In addition to maps, the office offers 10min. of free internet access. (261 81 71 70; www.cm-mafra.pt. Open daily 9:30am-1pm and 2:30-6pm.)

fesTivALsThose who love to mingle with locals will want to visit Lisboa in June. Open-air feiras —festivals of eating, drinking, live music, and dancing—fill the streets. After savoring farturas (huge Portuguese pastries whose name means “abundance”) and Sagres beer, join in traditional Portuguese dancing. On the night of June 12, the streets explode into song and dance in honor of St. Anthony during the Festa de Santo António. Banners are strung between streetlights and confetti falls in buckets during a parade along Av. da Liberdade. Young crowds pack the streets of Alfama and the neighborhood of Santa Catarina, and grilled sardinhas (sardines) and ginja (wild cherry liqueur) are sold everywhere. Lisboa also has a number of commercial feiras. From late May to early June, bookworms burrow

for three weeks in the outdoor Feira do Livro in Parque Eduardo VII, behind Pr. Marquês de Pombal. The Feira Internacional de Lisboa occurs every few months in the Parque das Nações; in July and August, the Feira de Mar de Cascais and Feira de Artesanato de Estoril (celebrating famous Portuguese pottery) take place near the casino. Year-round feiras include the Feira de Oeiras (sells antiques on the fourth Sunday of each month) and the Feira de Carcanelos (sells clothes Th 8am-2pm) in Rato. Packrats should catch the Feira da Ladra, a large flea market, whose name literally means “thieves’ fair” (don’t be surprised if your stolen watch turns up there). It’s held behind Igreja de São Vicente de Fora in Graça (Tu 7am-1pm and Sa 7am-3pm; take tram #28, ☎1.30).

BeyOnd LisBOA

cAscAis

Cascais is a beautiful beach town, serene during the low-season, and brimming with vacationers in the summer. Surfers and beach lovers will find everything they need in this tight-knit community.

Transportation. Trains from Lisboa’s Estação Cais do Sodré (213 42 48 93; M: Cais do Sodré) head to Cascais (30min., 3 per hr. 5:30am-1:30am, ☎1.65). Scott URB has a bus terminal in downtown Cascais, to the left side of the blue glass tower of the shopping center behind the train station. Buses #418 (40min., every 50min. 6:30am-7:50pm) and the more scenic #403 via Cabo da Roca (60-80min.; every 75min. M-Sa 6:30am-8:40pm, Su 9:10am-8:40pm) go from Cascais to Sintra for ☎3.35. To visit Praia de Guincho, a popular windsurfing beach considered by many to be best on the coast, take the circular route bus #405/415 to the Guincho stop (22min., every 1-2hr. 7:15am-7:40pm, ☎2.60).

Practical Information. To get to the tourist office, Av. dos Combatentes de Grande Guerra, 25, exit the train station through the ticket office and look for the McDonald’s arches across Lg. da Estação. To the right of McDonald’s is Av. Valbom; the office is a yellow building with “turismo” in big letters at the end of the street. The staff has English, Spanish, French, German, and Russian

speakers. (214 86 82 04. Open in summer M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-6pm; in winter M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-6pm.)

Accommodations And Food. Sleeping in Cascais; most stay in Lisboa or at nearby Oeiras, which has a pousada da juventude (HI youth hostel). If you do stay, the best place to crash is Cascais Beach Hostel, R. da Vista Alegre, 10, located five blocks away from the beach, and relatively well-located. Green co-ed dorms with 4-8 beds are very clean. Offers shared kitchen, free internet, luxurious common room with TV, swimming pool, and sunbathing deck. (309 90 64 21; www.cascaisbeachostel.com. Dorms Apr. 15-Nov. 15 ☎20; Nov. 16-Apr. 14 ☎18; doubles ☎49, with bath ☎69. Cash only.)

There are several restaurants on Av. dos Combatentes de Grande Guerra. The best is Restaurante Dom Manolo, R. Dra. Iracy Doile, 9A. Located 1 block from the train station, it serves up Japanese favorites to go. (214 86 74 28. Rolls ☎5-10. Sushi/sashimi boxes ☎7-16. Open daily noon-9pm. Cash only.)

Outdoor Activities And Entertainment. Praia da Ribeira, Praia da Rainha, and Praia da Conceição are especially popular with sunbathers. To reach Praia da Ribeira, take a right upon leaving the tourist office and walk down Av. dos Combatentes de Grande Guerra until you see the water. Facing the water, Praia da Rainha and Praia da Conceição are to your left. Or take advantage of the free bike rentals offered at two kiosks in Cascais (one is in front of the train station, by the McDonald’s, the other is in the parking lot of the Cidadela fortress, up Av. dos Carlos I). With a passport or driver’s license and your hotel information, and you can use the bikes from 8am to 6:30pm. Ride along the coast (to your right if facing the water) and check out the Boca de Inferno (Mouth of Hell), a stunning open cave where the crashing waves supposedly whisper the devil’s words. Go on a rainy day to really hear the cave roar. (About 1km outside Cascais, a 20min. walk up Av. Rei Humberto de Itália.) Devilry of a different sort starts as the sun sets, as nightlife picks up on Largo Luís de Camões, the main pedestrian square.

eRiceiRA

Ericeira is a pleasant fishing village whose white sand beaches were the departure point of Dom Manuel II, the last king of Portugal, when he was exiled in 1910. Restaurants, bars, and white-washed houses stand on the edge of a cliff that overlooks the Atlantic.

Transportation And Practical Information. Mafrense buses run from Lisboa’s Campo Grande; the bus for Ericeira leaves from the middle platform at the left-most part of the waiting area (70min., every hr. 6:30am-11:40pm, ☎4.70). Get off at the bus station. Buses run from Ericeira to Lisboa (70min.; every hr. M-F 5:10am-8:18pm, Sa 5:10am-8:20pm, Su 5:58am-9:33pm; ☎5.10) via Mafra (25min., ☎1.60) and to Sintra (50min., ☎1.80). To get to the tourist office, R. Dr. Eduardo Burnay, 46, from the bus station, cross the road (EN 247-2), turn left, and walk uphill. At the top of the hill, follow the signs for the Centro and go right on R. Prudêncio Franco da Trindade. Go straight downhill until Pr. da República; the tourist office is at the opposite end of the square. (261 86 31 22. Open M-F 10am-1pm and 2:30-6:30pm, Sa 10am-1pm and 3-10pm, Su 10am-1pm and 3-7pm.)

Accommodations And Food. You might have trouble finding a cheap room in summer; check with the tourist office for a list of rooms in private homes. Hospedaria Pedra Dura, Rua Dr. Eduardo Burnay, 28, has eight renovated rooms with private baths, impeccable decor, and great location. Warm colors adorn the beds and rugs of each room. Facing the tourist office, go up the road on the right-hand side. (261 86 21 62. Doubles Sept. 1-June 15 ☎30-35; June 15-July 15 ☎40; July 15-Aug. 31 ☎50. Reservations recommended in the summer. MC/V.) The cheapest option is Hospedaria Bernardo, R. Prudêncio Franco da Trindade, 11, a hotel-style residencial with amenities. Each has TV, table, and chairs. (261 86 23 78; hospedariabernardo@iol.pt. Residencial singles ☎25-30; doubles ☎35-40; triples ☎40-45. Prices drop ☎5-10 Sept.-May. Reservations recommended in Aug.) Seafood restaurants and bars can be found along R. Dr. Eduardo Burnay, which runs south from Pr. da República.

Outdoor Activities And Nightlife. Beachgoers quickly find their way to nearby Praia do Norte (a.k.a. Praia do Algodio), a long beach in the northern part of the port, and Praia do Sul in the south.

Experienced surfers head past Praia do Norte, however, to the more pristine Praia de São Sebastião, Praia da Ribeira d’Ilhas (site of a former World Surfing Championship), or Praia dos Coxos (Crippled Beach) beyond Ribeira d’Ilhas. There are several shops in town that give surfing lessons and rent out boards. If you’ve never surfed, contact licensed NaOnda Surfschool, whose teachers are lifelong surfers and speak English. It’s a 2km walk from Ericeira; head left from the port. (916 00 90 04; www.ericeirasurf.com. Lessons 2hr. per day for 3 days ☎59, children ☎39. Prices include wetsuit and board rental. Private lessons ☎25 per hr., max. 3 people. Board ☎15 per day, wetsuit ☎7 per day. Open daily 10am-6pm.) For an adrenaline rush on land, call Tres Ondas, for guided mountain bike rides. (261 81 98 38. ☎30 for bike, helmet, and 3hr. tour. Max. 4 people. Rides depart at post office on R. Prudêncio Franco da Trindade. Rides Tu-F 4:30pm, Sa 10am.)

Ericeira is home to the second-oldest discoteca in Portugal, O Ouriço, R. Capitão João Lopes, 9, right next to the cliff. This beachfront club, whose name means “hedgehog,” opened in 1960 and still packs in locals every night. (261 86 21 38. Open F-Sa 11pm-6am.)

sinTRA

Deep in the misty Serra mountains lies the enchanting city of Sintra, home to ancient castles, fairy-tale palaces, and verdant gardens. For centuries, sultans, kings, and wealthy noblemen were drawn by the area’s haunting beauty, and they left a trail of opulence and grandeur behind them. Today, Sintra is Portugal’s dreamland. Tourists from around the world explore the mysterious city, eager to absorb every detail and uncover every secret.

TRANSPORTATION

Horse-drawn Carriages: Sintratur, Largo Rainha D. Amélia (219 24 12 38; www.sintratur.com). Fixed routes or pay by the hr. Carriages, drivers, and horses for hire wait in the Praça da República. To Quinta da Regaleira and back (30min., ☎30) or Monserrate and back, including a 30min. stop on the grounds for a quick picnic (1hr., ☎70). Prices are for up to 4 people per

ride. Carriages available daily Apr.-Sept. 10am-6pm.

Trains: Estação de Caminhos de Ferro, Av. Dr. Miguel Bombarda (219 23 26 05). To Estação Sete Rios in Lisboa (40min., daily every 20min. 5:06am-12:56am, ☎1.65). From the train station, take the subway to downtown Lisboa.

Buses: ScottURB buses (214 69 91 25; www.scotturb.com), on Av. Dr. Miguel Bombarda. Buses run to Cascais (#417; 40min., every hr. M-F 6:30am-9:15pm, Sa 7:20am-7:50 pm, Su 8:10am-7:50pm, ☎3.25; or #403 Via Cabo da Roca; every hr. M-Sa 6:35am-8:40pm, Su 9:10am-8:40pm). Mafrense buses, 500m up the street away from Vila on Av. Dr. D. Cambournac, go to Ericeira (50min., daily every hr. 7:15am-8:25pm, ☎2.60).

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Situated in the mountains 25km northwest of Lisboa and 12km north of Cascais, Sintra has three main neighborhoods. Excursions to the area by bus or train begin in the modern Estefânia, where several banks and budget accommodations can be found. São Pedro de Sintra, farther uphill, has more shops and municipal offices. Sintra, famous for its heart, Sintra-Vila, better known as the Historic Center and home to most of the town’s fantastic sights. The 15min. walk from Estefânia is scattered with statues and fountains like bread crumbs for sight-hungry tourists. To get to the Historic Center, take a left out of the train station onto Av. Dr. M. Bombarda and follow it for 150m. At the intersection, take the curving road to the left, Volta do Duche, which passes the Parque da Liberdade and leads to the edge of the Historic Center, where shops begin to appear again. Stay to the right, and the Palácio Nacional de Sintra should be visible on the right. The tourist office is straight ahead. Sintra is navigable by foot, but a few sights lie outside (and uphill from) the town center. The ScottURB bus #434 sells day tickets to most of these sights (☎4). Pay on the bus, which departs from in front of the main train station (every 15min. 9:35am-7:05pm) and stops in the Historic Centre. From there, the bus will head to the Castelo dos Mouros and then Palácio da Pena. On the way back down the mountain, the bus stops in front of the Museu Brinquedo (Toy

Museum).

Tourist Office: Pr. da República, 23 (219 23 11 57; fax 210 23 87 87), in the Historic Center. Open daily June-Sept. 9am-8pm; Oct.-May 9am-7pm. Branch in the train station (219 24 16 23) with the same hours. English, French, and Spanish spoken.

Police: Guarda Nacional Republicana, R. João de Deus, 6 (219 24 78 50), next to the train station.

Pharmacy: Pharmazul, Av. Dr. Miguel Bombarda, 37 (}/fax 219 24 38 77). Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10:30am-7:30pm, Su 10am-2pm.

Medical Services: Centro de Saúde, R. Dr. Alfredo Costa, 34, 1st fl. (219 23 62 00). Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa-Su and holidays 10am-7pm.

Internet Access: Sabot, R. Dr. Alfredo Costa, 74 (219 23 08 02), across the street from the main train station, to the right of the Chinese restaurant. ☎1 per 15min., ☎1.60 per 30min., ☎2.50 per hr. CD burning ☎1.80 (CD included). Open M-Sa 1pm-midnight, Su 7pm-midnight.

Post Office: Pr. da República, 26 (219 10 67 91). Open M-F 9:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-6pm. Postal Code: 2710.

Save Your Stamps. Many post offices in Portugal sell pre-stamped postcards for international postage, saving you up to ☎0.75 per card.

ACCOMMODATIONS

In Sintra, you can stay at the oldest hotel in Iberia or in an 19th-century palace, but grandeur is matched by price. Most hotels in Sintra are more expensive than in nearby towns or Lisboa, a 45min. train ride away. For those on a budget, the central tourist office

has a list of private accommodations, but prices are similar to the residenciais (singles ☎25-60; doubles ☎40-70).

2 Squared Hostel, R. João de Deus, 68 (219 24 61 60). The best budget accommodation in Sintra, this hostel also has a cafe downstairs. Brightly painted rooms are spacious and open, though some face the train station and can be loud. 30min. free internet access and Wi-Fi. Private lockers in each room. Reserve ahead by phone. English spoken. Dorms ☎15; double with shared bath ☎20. Cash only.

Casa de Hóspedes Dona Maria Parreirinha, R. João de Deus, 12/14 (219 23 24 90; www.dmariaparreirinha.com). Exit the train station and go left around the tracks. Azulejo -decorated hallways, immaculate tile floors, and cable TV. Most rooms have private baths. Free parking available. Some English spoken. Singles ☎30, with bath ☎35; doubles ☎35/40; triples ☎45; quints ☎70. ☎5-10 less in winter. Cash only.

Monte da Lua, Av. Miguel Bombarda, 51 (219 24 10 29). Across the street from the train station. Excellent location. Offers rooms with heat, TV, and telephone. Singles ☎25, with private bath ☎30; high-season doubles ☎40, low-season ☎35. Cash only.

FOOD

Pastelarias and restaurants crowd the end of Rua João de Deus and Avenida Heliodoro Salgado. In the old town, Rua das Padarias (near the Palácio Nacional ) is lined with lunch spots. On the second and fourth Sundays of every month, take bus #433 from the train station to São Pedro (15min.) for the Feira de São Pedro, which features local cuisine, music, clothes, flowers, and antiques.

Café da Villa, Calçada do Pelourinho, 8 (967 09 13 96), in the main square in front of the Palácio Nacional. Decorated with colorful flags and paintings of famous faces, like the Dalai Lama’s. Offers internationally themed meals (☎8-15), which include 3 courses and a drink. Great late-night hangout. Open daily noon-2am. AmEx/MC/V.

Restaurante Parreirinha, Rua João de Deus, 43 (219 23 12

07), behind the train station. A welcome change from the dark, antiquated café-bars of the city. Stainless-steel appliances, a flat-screen TV, and cinnamon-colored tablecloths make for a modern vibe. Variety of fish and wine. Daily special ☎6.50. Entrees ☎7-10. No vegetarian entrees. Open M-Su 10am-4pm and 7-10pm. MC/V.

Restaurante Apeadeiro, Av. Miguel Bombarda, 3A (219 23 18 05). From the flag on the wall to the futebol (soccer ball) over the bar, this is a classic Portuguese cafe. Entrees ☎7-13. Open M-W and F-Su 11am-3pm and 7-10pm. AmEx/MC/V.

SIGHTS

Quinta Da Regaleira. A UNESCO World Heritage sight, this turret-studded palace was built in the early 1900s by Brazilian Antonio Monteira and flamboyant Italian architect Luigi Manini. Quinta’s gardens, wells, grottoes, and towers form one of the oldest occult gardens of Europe, a true dreamland in fairy tale Sintra. Its design follows mythological and historical themes, rendered in a fascinating amalgam of Manueline (Portuguese late-Gothic) and Renaissance styles. The Poço Iniciatico (Initiation Well) was inspired by the secret rituals performed by the famous Knights Templar. Beneath the castle you can explore a fantastic tunnel system. (To get to the Quinta da Regaleira, turn right out of the tourist office and follow R. Consiglieri Pedroso as it turns into Rua M. E. F. Navarro, a 15min. walk. 219 10 66 50. Open daily Oct. and Feb.-Apr. 10am-6:30pm, last entrance 6pm; Apr.-Sept. 10am-8pm, last entrance 7pm; Nov.-Jan. 10am-5:30pm, last entrance 5pm. Unguided visits ☎6, students and seniors ☎4. Guided tours at 10:30, 11am, noon, 2:30, 3:30pm; ☎10, students and seniors ☎8.)

Palácio Da Pena. Built in the 1840s by Prince Ferdinand of Bavaria, husband of Portugal’s Dona Maria II, this royal retreat embraces romantic and fantastic styles with meticulous detail. The prince, nostalgic for his native country, rebuilt and embellished the ruined monastery with the assistance of a Prussian engineer, combining the artistic heritages of Germany and Portugal. The result is magical: a colorful Bavarian castle decorated with Arabic minarets, Gothic turrets, Manueline windows, and a Renaissance dome. (Bus #434 runs to the palace from outside the tourist office every 15min. All-

day bus pass ☎4. 219 10 53 40; www.parquesdesintra.pt. The area surrounding the palace, Parque da Pena, is open daily June-Aug. 9:30am-8pm, Sept.-May 9am-7pm. ☎7.50, children and seniors ☎5.50. Palacio admission Sept.-Apr. ☎8, children and seniors ☎6. May-Aug. ☎11, children and seniors ☎9. Open daily 9:45 am-5:30pm. Tickets for both attractions are sold until 1hr. before closing. Guided tours in English, Portuguese, and Spanish; ☎5, ☎3.50 per person for groups of 10 or more.)

Castelo Dos Mouros. Built in the 8th century by the Moors, this ancient castle rests on the slopes of the Serra mountains. It was abandoned during the Moorish retreat to the south in 1147, but Dom Fernando II made some much-needed repairs in the 19th century. On a clear day, a long, steep climb up the walls will be rewarded with unmatched views of the Ribatejo plains and the clashing natural rock formations and manmade walls. (1km below the Palácio da Pena. Bus #434 departs from outside the tourist office and stops at the castle. All-day bus pass ☎4. 219 23 73 00; www.parquesdasintra.pt. Open daily June-Sept. 9am-8pm, last entrance 7pm; Oct.-May 10am-6pm, last entrance 5pm. ☎5, seniors and under 17 ☎3, family price for 2 children and 2 adults ☎12. Guided tours ☎5, ☎3.50 per person for groups of 10 or more.)

Monserrate. Located 4km from the center of Sintra, Monserrate is well worth a visit for those staying in town for more than a day. This sprawling estate is known for its quiet botanical gardens shaded by towering sequoias and tropical ferns. The garden has more than 3500 species of plants, and its lawn is watered by the oldest irrigation system in Portugal. The Moghul-style mansion, with its burnt-orange roof modeled on Brunelleschi’s Dome in Florence, is a classic example of Portuguese Romanticism. Designed by the English architect John T. Knowles in 1858, the estate became a refuge for eccentric English aristocrat William Beckford following scandals regarding his homosexual affairs. (To get to Monserrate, catch the small green train/roofless bus line, Linha de Monserrate, 214 66 26 03, beside the Palácio Nacional in Pr. da República. 20 min., every hr., ☎6 round trip. Monserrate 219 23 73 00 or 10 78 06. Open daily summer 10am-1pm, 2pm-7pm; winter 10:30am-1pm, 2pm-5pm. Last entrance 30min. before closing. ☎5, children and seniors ☎3, families of 2 adults and 2 children ☎12. Guided tours ☎5,

☎3.50 for groups of 10 or more.)

Palácio Nacional De Sintra. The palace, also known as the Paço Real or Palácio da Vila, dominates Pr. da República. Once a summer residence for Moorish sultans and their harems, the Palácio da Vila was taken over by the Portuguese following the Muslim defeat. The conquest is illustrated in the paintings of Portuguese noblemen gunning down Moorish soldiers. The palace and gardens were built in two stages: Dom João I built the main structure in the 15th century, and Dom Manuel I made it home to the best collection of azulejos (glazed tiles) in the world a century later. The palace has over 20 rooms, including the azulejo -covered Sala dos Árabes and the gilded Sala dos Brasões. Some of the palace’s greatest treasures are overhead: look up at the ceiling to see the royal coat of arms surrounded by the armorial bearings of 72 noble families, elaborately painted animals, and various other artistic flourishes. The palace is marked by a bird theme: doves symbolizing the Holy Spirit line the walls of the Capela, swans grace the Sala dos Cisnes, and on the ceiling of the Sala das Pegas magpies representing ladies-in-waiting hold a piece of paper proclaiming D. João I’s motto— “por bem,” or “for good.” (Lg. da Rainha Dona Amélia. 219 10 68 40; www.ippar.pt. Open M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-5:30pm. Last entrance 5pm. ☎5, seniors and students ☎2.50; Su and holidays before 2pm free.)

seTúBAL

There’s no question about it, Setúbal is a city of the sea—you can smell it in the air and see it on the menus. But unlike the coastal developments in the Algarve, Setúbal leaves travelers with more options than just beaches and bacalhau (cod). The wild dolphin population in the Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado offers a relaxing opportunity to commune with some of Mother Nature’s perkiest creatures. If you’re fleeing from campy tourist traps in a quest to discover the real Portugal, Setúbal will more than oblige, with central city squares full of traditional lojas (shops), cobblestone streets, and statues of Portuguese statesmen. Though the trip from

Lisboa is lengthy, Setúbal takes no more than a day or two to visit, and it makes a good base for daytrips.

TRANSPORTATION

Trains: leave from Estação Praça de Quebedo, which can be reached conveniently from the city center, Estação de Setúbal (265 52 68 45), in Pr. do Brasil (a 10min. walk down the same street) and Estação do Barreiro (50min., 2 per hr. 5am-noon, ☎1.60), where you transfer to a boat to get to Lisboa.

Buses: leave from Av. 5 de Outubro, 44 (265 52 50 51). From the tourist office, walk up R. Santa Maria to Av. 5 de Outubro and turn left; the station is about 2 blocks down on the right, in the building with “Rodoviária” written vertically down the front. Buses go to: Évora (2hr.; 10:25am, 5:10pm; ☎10); Faro (4hr., 3:05pm, ☎15.80); Lisboa’s Praça de Espanha (1hr., 17 per day 6:55am-10pm, ☎5.20); Sesimbra (45min., 9 per day 7:20am-8pm, ☎2.60).

Ferries: Transado, Doca do Comércio (265 23 51 01), off Av. Luísa Todi at the waterfront’s end, sends ferries to Tróia (15min.; every 30min.; ☎1.15, ages 5-10 ☎0.55, under 5 free).

Taxi: Rádio Táxi (265 23 33 34) is at Av. Luísa Todi and by the bus and train stations.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Setúbal’s main artery is Avenida Luísa Todi, a wide boulevard parallel to the Rio Sado. Farther inland from Luísa Todi is Avenida 5 de Outubro, and between the two major roads lies a dense district of shops and restaurants centered around the Praça de Bocage. Avenida da Portela runs perpendicular to Av. 5 de Outubro, past the train and bus stations.

Tourist Office: Posto de Turismo da Costa Azul, on Tr. Frei Gaspar, just off Av. Luísa Todi near Lg. da Misericórdia (265 53 91 20). English, French, and Spanish spoken. Open May-Sept. M-Su 9:30am-7pm, M and Sa the office closes 12:30pm-3pm. Oct.-Apr. open M-Sa 9:30am-6pm. M and Sa closes 12:30-2pm.

There is another municipal branch at R. Santa Maria, 2-4.

Currency Exchange: Banks line Av. Luísa Todi. (All open M-F 8:30am-3pm.) Agência de Cambios Central, Av. Luísa Todi, 226 (265 54 80 40) has currency exchange. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm.

Police: Station at Av. Luísa Todi, 350 (265 52 20 22).

Pharmacy: Farmácia Normal do Sul, Pr. de Bocage, 135 (265 52 84 50; open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-7pm).

Hospital: São Bernardo, R. Camilo Castelo Branco (265 54 90 00).

Laundromat: Lavanderia Donini, R. Oliveira Martins, 17 (265 52 71 54). Open M-F 9am-1pm and 3-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm. ☎2.25 per kg.

Internet Access: Cybertody, R. São Cristóvão, 7 (265 22 12 54). Follow the sign for Residencial Bocage off Av. Luísa Todi. It’s in the building in front of the Residencial on the 2nd fl. ☎1.65 per hr. Open M-F 10:30am-11pm, Sa-Su 2:30pm-11pm.

Post Office: at Ctt Correios, Praça de Bocage (213 55 35 05). Open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-6pm. Postal Code: 2900.

ACCOMMODATIONS

There are a few good pensões along Av. Luísa Todi and near Pr. de Bocage, or ask at either tourist office for a list of available quartos in private houses.

Pousada da Juventude de Setúbal (HI), Lg. José Afonso (265 53 44 31; fax 53 29 63). Facing the river, walk right on Av. Luísa Todi until you reach a large plaza on the left with a salmon-colored building in the center. Cut in front of the building to the parking lot; the pousada is the building ahead with the 2-story glass tower. The pousada has clean, cozy rooms, a common room with TV, and a friendly multilingual staff. Provides 30min free internet access. Reception 8am-noon and 6pm-midnight. Check-out noon. 4-person dorms ☎9; doubles ☎18, with bath ☎22. HI discount 15%. V.

Residencial Bocage, R. São Cristóvão, 14 (265 54 30 80), off Av. Luísa Todi, has fully loaded suites without fully loaded prices. Conveniently located near the main avenue and several cafes. Recently renovated rooms include bath, phone, TV, A/C, and breakfast. The front desk staff is helpful and friendly. Jan.-Mar. singles ☎29, doubles ☎40; Apr.-July ☎37/45; Aug. ☎38/50; Sept. ☎37/45; Oct.-Dec. ☎29/40. AmEx/MC/V.

Pensão O Cantinho, Beco do Carmo, 1-9 (265 52 38 99), is in an alley off Av. Luísa Todi behind Lg. do Carmo, near the police station. Spacious rooms above the restaurant have private baths and are among the cheapest in town. Reserve ahead in summer. Singles ☎10-15; doubles ☎20. Cash only.

FOOD

Seafood places line Av. Luísa Todi, up the street from Doca do Comércio; watch as they cut and fry your fish on sidewalk grills. You can also head to the Barrio das Fontanhas at the end of Av. Luisa Todi, an area frequented by locals.

Duarte Dos Frangos, Av. Luísa Todi, 285 (265 52 26 03), across the plaza from the youth hostel. Chatty locals and a friendly staff makes the place warm and welcoming. Ask for a meia of pork portuguesa (☎6). Fish and meat entrees ☎5.50-14. Open daily noon-3pm and 7-10pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Novo 10, Av. Luísa Todi, 422-426, is one of the best seafood restaurants around. Try Setubal’s famed specialty, choco frito. Additionally, the beef (☎8-12) is among the best in town. Open daily noon-2pm, 7pm-2am. AmEx/MC/V.

Cais 56, Av. Luisa Todi 56, (265 23 84 75). A great hangout with good pizza and choco frito (☎6) . Open M-Tu, Th-Su 12pm-3pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm.

SIGHTS AND FESTIVALS

The town’s most impressive sight, the 16th-century Forte de São Filipe, sits just outside the city. Designed by Italian engineer Filipe Terzi, the fortress was built in 1582 during the Spanish occupation of Portugal and took almost 20 years to finish. The star-shaped fortress is now a luxury pousada, but anyone is free to explore it. During the last week of July and first week of August, the Feira de Santiago, held in Lg. José Afonso, brings a carnival, folk music, and enormous outdoor market to Setúbal. The fair is accompanied by Portuguese bullfighting at Pr. dos Touros by the train station. Setúbal’s best beaches are Praia Figueirinha and Praia Galapos (buses run from the main station to Figueirinha, 20min., round-trip ☎2.80). Vertigem Azul, Edificio Marina Deck Rua Praia da Saude, 11D-Loja 10, near the fisherman harbor (265 23 80 00; www.vertigemazul.com), offers dolphin-watching daytrips (☎30, children ☎20) in addition to kayaking, snorkeling, and jeep tours (approx. ☎15 per hr.). Planeta Terra, Praça General Luís Domingues, 9, rents street, hybrid, and mountain bikes from ☎8 per day. (919 47 18 71; www.planetaterra.pt. Delivery available. Reserve ahead.)

Algarve And Alentejo OverviewThe Algarve and the Alentejo form a striking contrast. The Alentejo’s small villages, seemingly stuck in another time, provide an escape from the Algarve’s heavily touristed beaches and wild nightlife. Nearly 3000hr. of annual sunshine have transformed the Algarve from a fishermen’s backwater town into one of Europe’s favorite vacation spots. In July and August, visitors mob its resorts, packing bars and discos from sunset until long after sunrise. Still, the Algarve isn’t all about excess. The region between Faro and the Spanish border remains relatively untouched, and, to the west of Lagos, towering cliffs shelter pristine beaches. Life slows down even more as you enter the Alentejo, where arid plains punctuated by olive trees, two-toned cork trees, and fields of wheat and sunflowers stretch to the horizon in a display of endless shades of yellow. This vast region appeals to those in search of relaxation, history, and plenty of wine. The Algarve and Alentejo provide visitors with the best of both worlds.

HIGHLIGHTS OF ALGARVE AND ALENTEJOSpelunk among the grottoes and sea cliffs of Lagos .

Channel the spirit of Prince Henry the Navigator at his outpost in Sagres .

Feel it in your bones at Évora’s Capela dos Ossos .

Storm the walls of the 13th-century castle in Marvão .

AlgarveBehold the Algarve: a land where happy campers come to bask in the sun. Off the sands, the geometric designs and minaret-style chimneys of Algarve’s old houses reveal a strong Arab influence. While regional crafts specialize in basket-weaving, the Algarve’s most perfect craft is its delicious seafood—local favorites include flavorful sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines) and the creamy caldeirada (seafood chowder). Almonds and figs also make their way into most regional cooking, especially in divine desserts like figos cheios. In the winter, the resorts empty and wildlife of a different sort arrives, as roughly one-third of Europe’s flamingos migrate to the wetlands surrounding Olhão.

LAGOs

Lagos (pop. 17,500) has a way of making visitors want to stay forever; just ask any one of city’s expatriate bartenders, surf guides, or restaurant owners. As the Algarve’s capital for almost 200 years, Lagos launched many of the caravels that brought Portugal power and fortune in the 15th and 16th centuries. Today, the city is immersed in another, equally profitable golden age—tourism. While the 20-somethings recuperate from the previous night, the 40-plus crowd comes out in the morning and lingers until dinner time, perusing storefronts, taking dolphin tours, and relaxing in the sunny plazas.

To reach Lagos from northern Portugal, you must go through Lisboa; trips originating in the east generally transfer in Faro.

Trains: (282 76 29 87), over the footbridge and behind the marina. To: Beja (4hr.; 8:19am, 12:19pm; ☎9.80/17.30); Évora (5hr.; 8:19am, 12:19pm; ☎14.50/21.60) via Faro; Lisboa (3-4hr., 7 per day 6:11am-6:12pm, ☎15.50); Silves (40min., 1:39pm,

☎1.70); Vila Real de Santo António (3hr., 7 per day 7:03am-7:04pm, ☎6.50) via Faro.

Buses: The EVA bus station (282 76 29 44), off Av. dos Descobrimentos, is just before R. Porta de Portugal (when walking into town) and across the channel from the footbridge to the marina and train station. To: Albufeira (13hr., 6 per day 7am-5:15pm, ☎5); Faro (2hr., 6 per day 7am-5:15pm, ☎5.35); Lisboa (5hr., 6 per day 5:30am-6:15pm, ☎19); Sagres (1hr., 16 per day 7:15am-8:30pm, ☎3.40); Sines (2-4hr.; 3:20pm, 4:30pm;☎12.30/6.70).

Taxis: Lagos Central Taxi (282 76 24 69). 24hr. service to Lagos and environs.

Car Rental: 21+ for cars, 16+ for mopeds.

Auto Jardim, Travessa do Ferro de Engomar (282 76 94 86; www.auto-jardim.com). Cars from ☎91.50 per 3 days, without tax or insurance. Open 8:30am-1pm and 2:30-7pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Luzcar Rent-a-Car, Lg. Portas de Portugal, 10 (282 76 10 16; www.luzcar.com). July-Sept. cars from ☎200 per week including tax and insurance; Apr.-June and Oct. ☎150; Nov.-Mar. ☎130. Baby seat and roof rack included. AmEx/D/MC/V.

Motorent, R. Victor Costa Silva, 8B (282 76 97 16). Rents bikes (☎20 per 3 days, ☎37), scooters (☎63 per 3 days, ☎120), and motorcycles (☎55-110 per 3 days, ☎100-320). 18+, 25+ for motorcycles; license required. AmEx/MC/V.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Running the length of the channel, Avenida dos Descobrimentos carries traffic to and from Lagos. From the train station, walk through the marina and cross the pedestrian suspension bridge; turn left onto Av. dos Descobrimentos. From the bus station, walk straight until Av. dos Descobrimentos and turn right. Praça Gil Eanes is the center of the old town and extends into Lg. Marquêz

de Pombal, where the tourist office is located. Follow R. Silva Lopes to R. General Alberto da Silveira to reach the grotto-lined beach of Praia Dona Ana.

Tourist Office: Municipal (282 76 41 11), on Lg. Marquêz de Pombal. Open M-Sa 10am-6 pm. Open daily in summer 10am-7pm, in winter 10am-6pm.

Currency Exchange: Cotacâmbios, Pr. Gil Eanes,

11 (282 76 44 52).

English-Language Bookstore: The Owl Story, Marreiros Neto, 67 (282 79 22 89). Large selection of secondhand English novels and travel guides. Comfy chairs available for clients. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-2pm.

Library: R. Dr. Julio Dantas. Open Sept.-July Tu-W and F 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, Sa 10am-1pm. Free internet access upstairs.

Laundromat: Lavanderia Míele, Av. dos Descobrimentos, 27 (282 76 39 69). Wash and dry ☎7 per 5kg. Open M-F 9am-1pm and 3-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Some youth hostels and apartments have a laundry service, usually ☎2-5 per load.

Police: R. General Alberto da Silveira (282 76 29 30).

Pharmacy: Farmácia Silva, R. 25 de Abril, 9 (282 76 28 59). Ask at any pharmacy for a pamphlet listing the hours and locations of all the pharmacies in Lagos.

Medical Services: Hospital Distrital de Lagos, R. Castelo dos Governadores (282 77 01 00).

Internet Access: Snack Bar Ganha Pouco, 1st right after the footbridge coming from the bus station. Internet access and munchies. ☎2.50 per hr.; ☎0.50 per fax. Open M-Sa 8am-7:30pm, Su 9am-7:30pm. Several bars in Lagos have computers; check along R. Lançarote de Freitas. Free access also found in the library and the Cultural Center lobby, just minutes down from all the listed hostels. Open daily 1pm-midnight.

Post Office: R. da Porta de Portugal (282 77 02 50), between

Pr. Gil Eanes and the river. Fax ☎4.25 pers. Open M-F 9am-6pm. Postal Code: 8600.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND CAMPING

In July and August, budget spots fill quickly; reserve more than a week in advance. Some places, like the Rising Cock, set aside a limited number of last-minute rooms. Locals trying to rent rooms in their homes will probably greet you at the station or in the streets. Though these rooms may be a little out of the way, they can be the best deals in town at ☎10-15 per person in summer.

Pousada da Juventude de Lagos (HI), R. Lançarote de Freitas, 50 (282 76 19 70. July-Aug; book through Movijovem at 217 23 21 00). Social staff and lodgers congregate in the courtyard and barhop at night. Kitchen and TV room with billiards and foosball. Breakfast included. Internet ☎1 per 15 min. From mid-June to mid-Sept. dorms ☎16; doubles with bath ☎43. From mid-Sept. to mid-June ☎11/32. Cash only.

Rising Cock, Travessa do Forno, 14 (968 75 87 85; www.risingcock.com). Legendary among backpackers and spring-breakers. Youthful, gregarious atmosphere. Mrs. Ribeiro, referred to by guests as “Mama,” makes breakfast (included). Upstairs patio, kitchen, huge common room with big-screen TV, DVD library, and free internet access and Wi-Fi. Co-ed rooms with lockers; most have baths. Reserve ahead. Prices vary by season. In summer mixed dorms ☎22-25. AmEx/MC/V.

The Monkey House, R. Gil da Vicente, 23. (282 76 03 89; www.themonkeyhouse.eu). Not quite a zoo. 4-room dorms and clean, tiled bathrooms open into a spacious common room with big-screen TV, terrace, kitchen, and free internet. Mountain-bike rental ☎10 per day. Laundry ☎5. Breakfast included in the One Fat Monkey Diner (next door). Call for bus/train station pickups. ☎22-25. AmEx/MC/V.

Camping Trindade (282 76 38 93), just outside town. Follow Av. dos Descobrimentos toward Sagres. ☎3.50 per person; ☎4.50 per tent; ☎4.80 per car.

FOOD

The cheapest dining options in Lagos are the local indoor produce market on Av. dos Descobrimentos and Supermercado São Roque, R. da Porta de Portugal, 61 (282 76 28 55; open July-Sept. M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 9am-7pm; Oct.-June M-F 9am-7:30pm, Sa 9am-7pm). Eateries on R. de Silva Lopes and R. 25 de Abril tend to be more expensive.

Casa Rosa, R. do Ferrador, 22 (282 18 02 38). The friendly staff at this Australian/American restaurant will engage the daring in an intense game of Connect Four. Various vegetarian options. Entrees ☎5-7.50. All-you-can-eat spaghetti or vegetarian bolognese ☎5 daily. The strawberry daiquiris (☎4.50) are a sweet start or finish to any meal. Free internet access for diners. Open daily 5pm-midnight.

A Forja, R. dos Ferreiros, 17 (282 76 85 88). Few traditional Portuguese restaurants exist in Lagos but locals swear by A Forja, known affectionately as “Blue Door.” Serves Algarvian seafood; look for a placard outside listing specials, like the tremendous plate of pato (duck). Entrees ☎7-15. Open daily noon-3pm and 6:30-10pm. Cash only.

Mediterraneo, R. Senhora da Graça, 2 (282 18 31 00). Mediterranean and Thai cuisine, including enticing tapas (☎2-7.50). Great seafood, and some of the town’s most enticing options for vegetarians. Salads ☎6-8. Pizza ☎7-8. Entrees ☎8.50-14.50. Open Tu-Sa 7pm-late. Cash only.

Mullen’s, R. Cândido dos Reis, 86 (963 50 16 58). A unique combination of great Portuguese and international cuisine, stereotypical Irish pub atmosphere, and live jazz. Try the duck in orange sauce and the spicy frango grelhado (grilled chicken). Live music Tu. Tapas ☎2.50-6. Entrees ☎8-14. Beer ☎3.50. Mixed drinks ☎5. Restaurant open daily 6-10:30pm; bar open daily 11pm-2am.

Nah Nah Bah, Travessa do Forno, 11. Owner personally prepares dishes and chats with customers nightly. Try The

Nah Nah Bird (seasoned with Algarvian spices, fresh oranges, and strawberries) with the “legendary” Nah Nah chips (☎8.50). Reggae beats (sometimes with live DJ) and cabana-feel keep the relaxed vibe alive well into the night. Entrees ☎6.50-10. Open 6pm-late.

SIGHTS AND BEACHES

The few sights that Lagos has to offer can be seen on a lazy afternoon walk back from the beach. The Forte da Ponta da Bandeira, a 17th-century fortress with maritime exhibitions and tiled chapel, overlooks the marina. It is the site of Lagos’s traditional Banho 29 (Bath 29) festivities; in ancient times, locals traveled to the waters of Lagos and purified themselves in the sea at midnight on August 29. The date has been transformed to an annual celebratory rave. (282 76 14 10. Open Tu-Su 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5pm. ☎2, students ☎1, under 13 free.) Also near the waterfront is the former Mercado dos Escravos (slave market). Legend has it that the first sale of African slaves in Portugal took place here in 1444. It is currently an art gallery, although one wall bears the arms of the 17th-century Marquis de Nisa. The second floor housed the Lagos Customs Office until 1820. One block from Pr. Infante Dom Henrique is Igreja de Santo António. The church is home to a museum containing artifacts ranging from the Neolithic age to the present, along with a magnificient guilded vault and retablo mayor. (Open Tu-Su 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5pm. ☎2.20; seniors, students, and under 18 ☎1.)

Lagos’s beaches are undeniably seductive. A 4km blanket of flat, smooth sands (crowded in summer but bare in the sunny low season) lines the well-known Meia Praia, across the river from town. To get there, hop on the quick ferry near Pr. Infante Dom Henrique (☎0.50). For plunging cliffs and smaller coves, follow Av. dos Descobrimentos toward Sagres to Praia de Pinhão (20min.). Five minutes farther down the coast lies Praia Dona Ana, with sculpted ochre cliffs and grottoes that appear on half of all Algarve postcards.

WATER ACTIVITIES

If you’re up for more than lounging, Lagos offers a wide variety of watersports, from scuba diving to surfing to (booze) cruising. For grotto boat tours, stroll the various companies on Av. dos Descobrimentos, on the marina side. Most tours last 45min. and start from ☎10. Bom Dia offers a 2hr. tour for ☎17-21.

The Booze Cruise (969 41 11 31). A 4hr. afternoon boat ride around Lagos’s coast. You’re certain to get vertigo, whether from looking up at the dizzying heights of the cliffs or the all-you-can-drink bar. Not for those looking for a tour—anchor drops about an hour in. ☎35, all inclusive. Booking available through The Rising Cock and Joe’s Garage.

Algarve Dolphins, Marina de Lagos, 10 (282 76 46 70; www.bomdia-boattrips.com). 1hr. of dolphin-watching in the ocean in high-speed rescue boats. Tours leave from the Lagos Marina. ☎30, ☎35 for guaranteed sightings.

Surf Experience, R. dos Ferreiros, 21 (282 76 19 43; www.surf-experience.com). 1- to 2-week surfing trips with lessons, transportation, and accommodations in a Lagos surf house. All levels welcome. Daytrips when space available. Board and wetsuit rental ☎75/114. Apr.-Nov. 1 week with board ☎525, 2 weeks ☎881; Dec.-Mar. ☎473/836.

NIGHTLIFE

Lagos’s young crowd flocks from the beaches to the bars as the sun dips below the horizon. In town, the area between Praça Gil Eanes and Praça Luis de Camões is filled with cafes. Rua Cândido dos Reis, Rua do Ferrador, and the intersection of Rua 25 de Abril, Rua de Silva Lopes, and Rua Soeiro da Costa are the bar and club scene mecca. The streets get busy around 10pm, and serious pedestrian traffic hits at midnight. Bars boast an abundance of drink specials.

Inside Out Bar, R. Cândido dos Reis, 119 (www.insideoutbar.com). Inside Out is an insomniac’s dream come true; things don’t pick up until a little after 2am, when most of the other bars close. The house specialty is the barely legal Fishbowl (☎25), mixed by feisty bartenders. Outfitted with a pool table, an

extensive drink menu, and entertaining staff, it’s a shame this bar ever has to close. Beer ☎3-4.50. Shots ☎3-3.50. Mixed drinks ☎5-6.50. Open daily 8pm-4am.

Zanzi-bar, R. 25 de Abril, 93. Another “2 o’clock” stop, Zanzi-bar is always packed. The back room has a few tables for a more intimate setting. Scan the crowd for waiters and waitresses from local restaurants. Beer ☎3. Shots ☎2.50-3. Try house specials such as the morangsca (with fresh strawberries, 0.5L ☎8, 1L ☎15), sangria (☎5/9), frozen margarita (☎9/18), and kamikazi (☎9/12.50). Open daily 7pm-4am.

The Red Eye, R. Cândido dos Reis, 63. Brits and Aussies flood in around midnight for the classic rock, cheap liquor, and casual pool games. Mostly a pickup scene. Free shot with 1st drink. Beer ☎2-3. Mixed drinks ☎3.50-5. Shots ☎2.50. Jug of sangria ☎10. Happy hour with ☎5 2-pint mixed drinks 8-10pm. Open daily 8pm-2am.

Açores Bar, R. Sra. da Graça, 12. A Portuguese twist on the mainly Anglophone-run bar scene, owned by a couple from the Açores. Multi-level bar allows for more breathing room than most surrounding establishments can claim, although the population explodes around 1am. Reggae music nightly. ☎8 for L of sangria. Open daily 6pm-2am.

dAyTRiP fROm LAGOs

PRAiA dA ROchA

To reach Praia da Rocha from Lagos, take the bus to Portimão (40min., 10 per day 6:11am-8:19pm, ☎3.75) and get off at the Praia da Rocha stop.

A short jaunt from Lagos, locals and tourists agree that Praia da Rocha is the best beach that the Algarve has to offer. With vast expanses of big surf, red cliffs, and secluded coves, Praia da Rocha’s reputation is well deserved, and the crowds attest to this fact. The tourist office at the end of R. Tomás Cabrieira offers maps and lists of accommodations and restaurants. (282 41 91 32. Open May-Sept.

daily 9:30-7pm; Oct.-Apr. M-F 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-12:30pm.)

sAGRes

Marooned atop a windy plateau at the southwesternmost point in Europe, Sagres (pop. 3000) was considered the end of the world for centuries and its name (“Sacrum” or “Sacred Place”) bears witness to that mystical impact as world’s end. It was here that Prince Henry’s famous school of navigation organized exploratory voyages to the far reaches of the globe. While large tour groups and upscale vacationers are discouraged by its desolate location and relative lack of recreation, Sagres’s picturesque beaches, friendly locals, and lively nightlife make it a perfect destination for travelers in search of a stress-free day. Sagres, with access to both southern and western coasts, is rapidly becoming one of Europe’s prime surfing grounds.

Transportation And Practical Information. EVA buses (282 76 29 44) run from Lagos (1hr.; 14 per day M-F 6:10am-7:35pm, Sa 9 per day 6:10am-7:10pm, Su 7 per day 7:15am-7:10pm; ☎3.40). Buses also run to Lisboa (5hr., July-Sept. daily 4pm, ☎18). When arriving in Sagres use the tourist office on Av. Comandante Matoso as a signpost for when to get off. Schedules are posted to the left of the tourist office door. The office offers practical and recreational pamphlets in English, including maps, regional information, and suggestions for golfing and enjoying the surf. (808 78 12 12; www.visitalgarve.pt. Open Tu-Sa 9:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm.) The police are in Vila do Bispo (282 63 91 12). Other local services include: banks and ATMs along Av. Comandante Matoso and across from the post office and at the supermarket; a pharmacy all the way down on R. Comandante Matoso, at the corner of R. Jaime Conde (282 62 48 50; open M-F 9am-2pm and 3-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm and 5-7pm, Su 11am-1pm and 5-7pm); and a post office on the right-hand side of Av. Comandante Matoso as you walk toward Praia da Baleeira (707 26 26 26; open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm). Freeride Surfcamp, or Casa Azul, with a blue-tiled hub on Pr. da República, offers surf lessons and

packages from €45 per day (including free pickup from Lagos bus and train stations) for surfers of all levels. (282 62 42 45; www.freeridesurfcamp.com). Other bookings are available at Surf Planet, Est. Nacional, 268 (282 62 48 15; www.surfplanet-pt.com; from ☎45 per day; open M and Th-Su 9am-8pm, W 9a,-7:30pm; AmEx/MC/V) and Sagres Natura, R. Mestre Antonio Galhardo (282 62 40 72; www.sagresnatura.com; from ☎45 per day; open daily 9:30am-8pm, AmEx/MC/V). Bike rentals at Surf Planet (☎5/10/15 for 1/4/8hr.) and Sagres Natura (☎15 per day). Free internet at Água Salgada and neighbor O Dromedário (see Entertainment, ).

Accommodations And Camping. Finding a bed in Sagres is not hard; windows everywhere display multilingual signs advertising rooms. Singles and doubles range ☎20-30 and triples ☎30-40, with lower rates in winter. Use caution if considering offers at the bus station; prices tend to run a little higher than those on Av. Comandate Matoso, and rooms could be outside the main city. To stay within city limits, try Atalaia Apartamentos, on R. Patrão António Faustino, just off the main drag. The spacious beach-themed rooms match the blue and yellow painted tiles adorning the hallway. The apartments boast full kitchen, bath, living room, and terrace. (282 62 46 81. Prices vary; call ahead.) The shop owner at Oceanus, R. Comandante Matoso near the pharmacy, offers clean, colorful and mostly spacious rooms with complete bath above the store. (282 62 45 58. Small singles ☎20; doubles ☎25; triples ☎30. Larger rooms ☎30/35/40. Reception open daily 9am-8pm.) Sagres strictly forbids open-air camping due to its strong winds. Campers can get their fix at Orbitur Campground, 2.5km toward Cabo de São Vicente, just off ER 268 and about a 25min. walk to the lesser-known Praia do Belixe. (282 62 43 71. Reception 8am-10pm. June-Aug. ☎4.30 per person; ☎4.60 per tent; ☎3.80 per car. Sept.-May prices ☎0.20 less.)

Food. For groceries, try Alisuper, a supermarket on R. Comandante Matoso. (282 62 44 87. Open daily 9am-8pm.) O Dromedário Bistro, on R. Comandante Matoso, is a Moroccan-inspired haven with an extensive bar, constant stream of American pop/rock, and free internet (ask the bartender for the code). Try the hearty crepes (☎2.40-5.30), colorful salads (☎3.90-6.80), inventive sandwiches (☎2.10-

6.70), and fresh fruit juices and shakes (☎2-3.50). The bar is a hot nightspot, especially on Karaoke Thursdays. (282 62 42 19; www.dromedariosagres.com. Restaurant open daily 10am-midnight. Bar open daily in summer until 3am; in winter until 2am.) The colorful, minimalist decor of Com Alma Caffé, right across Atalaia Apartamentos, is inviting. (282 62 48 56. Pasta and pizza ☎6.80-9.30. Beer ☎1-2.60. Mixed drinks ☎3.50-5.)

Sights And Beaches. Near town, the Fortaleza de Sagres divides the famed Ponta de Sagres that grips both coasts of the jutting peninsula with its far-reaching walls. The fort, once home to Prince Henry the Navigator, is an integral part of every visit to Sagres, if only for its sweeping ocean views. (Open daily May-Sept. 9:30am-8pm; Oct.-Apr. 9:30am-5:30pm. Closed May 1 and Dec. 25. ☎3, under 25 or retired ☎1.50. Youth cardholders ☎1.20. Free 30min. guided tours at noon, 4, 5pm. Max. 20 people. Meet near compass.) Several swimmer-friendly beaches fringe the peninsula, the most prominent of which is Mareta, at the bottom of the road from the town center. Craggy rock formations bookend this sandy crescent. Mareta is popular for its length and isolation, but this beach is not immune to Sagres’s infamous wind. Less than a mile up the coast from Praia da Baleeira is Praia de Martinhal, widely acclaimed for its windsurfing. Less windy Praia da Belixe is located 3km outside of town on the way to Cabo de São Vicente.

Entertainment. With the last traces of sunlight snuffed out, rock music and crowds fill the lively Rosa dos Ventos in Pr. da República. (282 62 44 80. Beer ☎1-2. Mixed drinks ☎3-5. Famous sangria ☎6.50. Happy hour 5-8pm, sangria ☎4. Open M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-2am.) Another hot spot is Água Salgada, on R. Comandante Matoso, pulsing with mixes spun by a live DJ. Free Wi-Fi and PC access, card games, and foosball provide entertainment off the dance floor. (282 62 42 97. Beer from ☎1.70. Mixed drinks ☎5. Shots ☎2. Sandwiches, pizza, and salads available. Open June-Aug. daily 10am-4am. Sept.-May M abd W-Su 10am-4am.) Next door is O Dromedário (see Food, ), where trendy young locals let loose. A projector screen plays surf movies while the DJ keeps the party moving with the likes of Lynyrd Skynyrd and REM. (282 62 42 97. Beer ☎1.70-4. Daiquiris and coladas ☎4.50-7. Open in summer daily 10pm-3am; in winter Th and

Su 10am-2am, F-Sa 10am-4am.)

ALBUfeiRA

Sandwiched between two hills, Albufeira’s landscape is covered in sprawling hotel and condominium developments—get moving early if you want to avoid the madding crowd. The lively international nightlife includes such stellar (impersonation) performances as The Rolling Stones and Neil Diamond. But don’t let the hype and glamor of Swedish hotels and English pubs scare you off; you are in the Algarve, and that means fabulous beach space. Soak it up, especially since your hotel is most likely only a 5min. walk from the shore.

Transportation. EVA buses (10min., every hr. 7:05am-8:20pm, ☎1.90) connect the train station (289 57 26 91) and bus station (289 58 97 55) to the town center 6km away. Trains to: Faro (1hr., 8 per day 7:17am-11:10pm, ☎2.35); Lagos (1hr., 8 per day 7:38am-9:17pm, ☎3.85); Lisboa (3-5hr., 5-7 per day 6:06am-6:28pm, ☎17); Olhão (1hr.; M-F 9 per day 7:17am-10:31pm, Sa-Su 6-7 per day 8:13am-10:31pm; ☎2.75); Vila Real de Santo António (1-2hr., 7-9 per day 8:13am-10:31pm, ☎6.30). The EVA bus station is in nearby Caliços. Buses head to Faro (40min., 7 per day 7:05am-6:35pm, ☎4.20), Lagos (1hr., 6 per day 8:50am-6:25pm, ☎5), and Lisboa (6 per day M-F 7:05am-7:50pm, ☎19). To get between the train or bus stations and the center of town, you can call Táxi Rádio (298 58 32 30).

Orientation And Practical Information. Albufeira spreads along the Atlantic, with R. Latino Coelho, R. Bernardino Sousa, and R. da Bateria bordering the coast. R. 5 de Outubro and Av. da Liberdade run perpendicular to the ocean and separate the town’s busy cafe- and bar-filled section to the east from the slightly calmer area to the west. From the new bus station, it is at least a 25min. trek to the town center. Take the blue or green line (not the 40min. city-sweeping red, or vermelha, line) of the Giro city bus from the station to Av. da Liberdade (every 20min. 9am-8pm, ☎1.10). To reach the tourist office, R. 5 de Outubro, 8, follow Av. da Liberdade downhill to Tr. 5 de Outubro and take a right. Turn left when this small

street intersects R. 5 de Outubro. The staff offers maps and info on watersports, fishing, and scuba diving. (289 58 52 79. Open M-F 9:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm.) Local services include: banks, surrounding the tourist hub Lg. Eng. Duarte Pacheco; police (289 58 33 10) on Av. 25 de Abril; Farmácia Piedade (289 51 22 54) on R. João de Deus, open daily until 7:30pm with listings of on-call pharmacies; and Centro de Saúde in nearby Caliços (289 59 84 00). Internet access can be found in the Shopping Center California, R. Cândido dos Reis, 1. (289 00 15 33. ☎1.50 per 30min. Open daily 10am-midnight.) The town’s only English-language bookstore is Julie’s Secondhand Book Shop, R. Igreja Nova, 6, which gives a small refund if you bring the book back. (965 12 94 82. Open M-F 10am-4pm, Sa 10am-1pm. The post office is next to the tourist office on R. 5 de Outubro. (289 58 08 70. Open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 2-6pm.) Postal Code: 8200.

Accommodations. Most lodgings in Albufeira are booked solid by package tours from late June through mid-September. To find a room, head to R. Cemitério Velho, R. do Saco, R. Igreja Nova, and R. Igreja Velha; looking expectantly at anyone around and saying “Quartos?” will automatically start the process. Some of the rooms can be far away from the city center—make sure to see the room before agreeing on anything, settle on a price, and get a receipt for your stay. Pensão Dianamar, R. Latino Coelho, 36, is close to the beach and has a charming courtyard, kitchen, TV lounge, and bright, white rooms with bath. (289 58 78 01. Breakfast included. July-Sept. singles ☎50; doubles ☎60-65; triples ☎75. Sept.-Oct and Apr.-June. ☎40/50-55/65.) Open-air camping is illegal, but travelers can pay for Parque de Campismo de Albufeira, 2km outside town on the road to nearby Ferreiras, boasts a moat, three swimming pools, a playground, restaurant, tennis courts, supermarket, and a dance club. From the bus station, take the red (vermelha) line and get off at the fourth stop. (289 58 76 29; www.campingalbufeira.net. May 16-Sept. ☎5.20 per person; ☎4.70 per car; ☎5.30 per tent. Oct.-May 15 50% discount. AmEx/MC/V.)

Food. For fresh produce and seafood, check out the mercado municipal. Follow R. Paul Harris from the main bus station and

take a right onto Es. Vale Pedras. (Open Tu-Su 8am-1pm, Th offers most variety.) R. 5 de Outubro offers ample options with many inexpensive, fast eateries. Alternatively, O Zuca, R. Latino Coelho, 14. This Havana-inspired cafe doubles as a bar at night and serves a variety of tapas (☎2-5) against a backdrop of Cuban and reggae beats. (915 47 42 45. Sandwiches ☎2-4. Meat dishes ☎4-7. Open daily 11am-2pm and 6pm-2am. AmEx/MC/V.) For a cozy and classy spot farther from the bustle, head to Augusto’s, Av. de Liberdade, 81, which offers meat and fish (☎9-15) and specialty (☎30) Algarvian dishes. (289 51 57 38. Open daily 6pm-midnight. MC/V.)

Beaches. The constant stream of tourists that flows into Albufeira empties into the city’s spectacular spread of beaches, ranging from the popular Galé and São Rafael (4-8km toward Lagos) to the chic local favorite Falésia (10km toward Faro), both accessible by car, taxi, or bus. Check the tourist office for seasonal schedules. To get to the centrally located Inatel beach from the main square, Lg. Eng. Duarte Pacheco, follow Av. 25 de Abril to its end and continue down R. Gago Coutinho until you hit sand. Beautiful, but packed, Praia de Albufeira awaits through the gate to the tourist office

Entertainment. Bars and restaurants line all the town’s streets, but all you really need to do for a great night out is head for R. Cândido dos Reis where the young, lively crowd hangs out. Locals recommend Atrium Bar, R. Cândido dos Reis, 7, especially for no-holds-barred karaoke. (289 58 91 16. Karaoke nightly 9pm-4am. Beer ☎2.50. Mixed drinks ☎6-7.50. Light food served until 11pm. Open daily 6pm-4am.) Bubha Bar, Tr. Cândido dos Reis, 3, offers a large dance floor and lounge, opening right onto the town square. At midnight, an intimate rooftop bar with chill-out music and spaces for hip-hop beats and popular Spanish rock opens up. (289 51 42 60. Open daily 7pm-late.) Classic Bar, R. Cândido dos Reis, 10, is a rocking spot with elaborately concocted drinks and a largely anglophone clientele. (289 51 20 75. Beer ☎2-3. Mixed drinks ☎5-7.50. Open daily June-Sept. noon-4am; Oct.-May noon-midnight.)

fARO

Step off the bus in Faro (pop. 42,000), and you’ll find yourself in the shadow of McDonald’s arches and a run-of-the-mill chain sandwich shop. Don’t let these sights discourage you, however; a few blocks down, the street spills out into a square overlooking a tightly packed marina, the lifeline of the city for centuries. Visitors can take advantage of a pedestrian shopping district, museums of all sorts, a quiet historical neighborhood in the cidade velha (old city), and beaches on the estuary’s island.

TRANSPORTATION

Flights: Aeroporto de Faro (289 80 08 00, flight info 80 08 01; www.ana.pt/portal/page/portal/ana/aeroporto_faro), 4km west of the city, has car rental, tourist info booth, bank, police station, and post office. Open daily 10am-midnight. Buses #14 and 16 run there from opposite the bus station (20min.; M-F 18 per day 7am-8:40pm, Sa-Su and holidays 12 per day 8am-7:30pm; ☎1.65).

Trains: Lg. da Estação (808 20 82 08), from the bus station, exit left and walk 4min. Not to be confused with a secondary station in Faro 2km away. Free internet access available at 2 kiosks. To: Albufeira (30min., 5 per day 6:45am-6:05pm, ☎2.35); Beja (2hr.; M-F 3 per day 9:10am-3:32pm, Sa-Su 9:10am, 2:10pm; ☎15.35); Évora (4-6hr.; M-F and Su 3-4 per day 6:45am-4:04pm, Sa 6:45, 9:10am; ☎19.80); Lagos (1hr., 9 per day 7:12am-8:11pm, ☎6.15).

Buses: EVA, Av. da República (289 89 97 00. Open M-F 6am-11pm, Sa-Su 7am-11pm). To: Albufeira (1hr.; M-F 15 per day 6:30am-7:15pm, Sa-Su 9 per day 7:20am-6:45pm; ☎4.20); Beja (3hr., 5 per day 8:30am-5pm, ☎12.70); Huelva (3hr.; 8:20am, 3:35pm; ☎12); Lagos (2hr., 7 per day 8am-5:30pm, ☎5.35); Olhão (20min., 13 per day 7:35am-7:50pm, ☎1.75); Vila Real de Santo António (1hr., 9 per day 7:15am-6:20pm, ☎5). EVA also provides long-distance service to Braga (8hr., 9 per day 5:30am-1:30am, ☎27) and Porto (7hr., 6-13 per day 5:30am-1:30am, ☎26) via Lisboa (4hr., 9 per day, ☎18-19; 5% ISIC discount).

Taxis: Táxis Rotáxi (289 89 57 95). Taxis gather near Jardim Manuel Bívar (by the tourist office) and at the bus and train stations.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Faro’s center nestles against the Doca de Recreio, a marina lined with luxurious ships and bordered by the Jardim Manuel Bívar and Praça Dr. Francisco Gomes. The lively, walkable shopping district is tucked between Pr. Ferreira de Almeda and R. da Misericórdia, near the entrance to the old city. From the train or bus stations, turn right and follow Av. da República toward the harbor. Enter the cidade velha, with its ancient walls and cathedral, through the Arco da Vila, a stone passageway next to the tourist office on the far side of the garden bordering Pr. Dr. Francisco Gomes.

Tourist Office: R. da Misericórdia, 8 (289 80 36 04; www.visitalgarve.pt). From the bus or train station, turn right down Av. da República along the harbor, then left at the garden. English and French spoken. Website has guides for download. Open daily June-Sept. 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-7pm; Oct.-May 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm. Regional office, Av. 5 de Outubro, 18-20 (289 80 04 00). Open M-F 9am-7pm.

Currency Exchange: Cotacâmbios, R. Dr. Francisco Gomes, 26 (289 82 57 35). Open daily June-Sept. 9am-8pm; Oct.-May 9am-7pm.

Luggage Storage: ☎1.50 per bag per day at the bus station (look for the sign next to the ticket counter). Open 9am-1pm and 4-7pm.

Laundromat: Sólimpa, R. Batista Lopes, 30 (289 82 29 81). Wash and dry ☎7 for 4kg, ☎1.75 per additional kg. Open M-F 9am-1pm and 3-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm.

Police: R. Polícia da Segurança Pública (289 89 98 99).

Pharmacy: Farmácia Caminé, R. Dr. F. Gomes, 14 (289 82 22 77). Open M-F 9am-10pm, Sa 9am-10pm.

Hospital: R. Leão Penedo (289 89 11 00), just north of town across from the old soccer stadium. Centro de Saúde (289 83 03 00). Open daily 8am-8pm.

Internet Access: Free at the Instituto Português de Juventude, next to the youth hostel (289 89 18 20). Max. 30min. Open M-F 9am-8pm.

Post Office: Lg. do Carmo (289 89 25 90), across from Igreja do Carmo. Open M-F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm. Postal Code: 8000.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Lodgings surround the bus and train stations as well as the pedestrian streets of R. Vasco de Gama, R. de Santo Antonio, and R. Conselheiro Bivar. Most of the low-end budget pensões are plain but adequate.

Pousada da Juventude (HI), R. Polícia de Segurança Pública, PSP (289 82 65 21; faro@movijovem.pt). A 15min. walk from the bus station. Take Dr. F. Gomes, which becomes R. de San António. Take a right on R. Bemardo Passos, which becomes R. PSP. Basic, but the best value in town. Rooftop patio and TV common room. Basic, industrial-style interior and shared bathrooms. Breakfast included. July-Aug. dorms ☎13; doubles ☎28, with bath ☎38. Sept.-June ☎9/22/25. AmEx/MC/V.

Pensão Emilia, R. Reitor Teixeira Guedes, 21 (289 80 19 62). Tiled facade, big windows, and dark wood lend the pension Old World charm. Oct.-June singles ☎15; doubles ☎25; triples ☎40. July ☎20/40/45. Call ahead to verify prices. Cash only.

Pizzerias and sandwich shops abound along Rua Conselheiro Bívar and Praça Dr. Francisco Gomes, but be wary of overpriced fast food. The true Faro flavor comes out a few blocks from the shopping district, where you’ll find restaurants that cater to local families. At the market in Lg. Dr. Francisco Sá Cameiro, fishermen peddle the day’s catches. (Open daily 7am-3pm.) Always a quick, cheap option, the Alisuper grocery store, Lg. de Carmo, is to the right when facing the church. (289 82 49 20. Open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm, Su 9am-1pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Restaurante São Domingos, R. da Trindade, 10. Serving local fish and meat dishes, this small restaurant is recommended and

frequented by locals. Entrees ☎5.50-9. Bottle of house wine ☎4. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 7-10pm. Cash only.

O Ribatejano, R. São Luis, 32A (289 81 21 10; www.ribatejano.net). A rarity in carnivorous Portugal. Chef whips up protein-conscious vegetarian platters delicious enough to rival classic fare. Entrees ☎6-13. Open daily noon-3pm and 7-11pm. Cash only.

SIGHTS

Faro’s Vila-Adentro, a medley of ornate churches and museums punctuated by shops selling local handicrafts and houses of multi-generational families, is an uncorrupted haven for those looking for a slice of the Old World. As you walk through the Arco da Vila, look to the right to see the city’s only remaining Moorish door. At the end of a sweltering day, seek refuge in the Jardim Alameda João de Deus, next door to the Pousada da Juventude, where you can relax under lush tropical greenery. (Minigolf ☎0.27. Open daily 8am-8pm.)

Capela Dos Ossos. The Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones) in the courtyard of the Igreja de Nossa Senhora was built to commemorate the monks who were formerly buried behind the church. Brace yourself; the walls and ceiling were constructed with over 1245 skulls and countless other bones. (Lg. do Carmo. 289 82 44 90. Open May-Sept. M-F 10am-1pm and 3-6pm, Sa 10am-1pm; Oct.-Apr. M-F 10am-1pm and 3-5pm, Sa 10am-1pm. Su mass 8:30am. Chapel ☎1, church free.)

Catedral (Sé). A narrow road climbs up from the Arco da Vila to a square lined with orange trees and blindingly white buildings, home to Faro’s cathedral, a compilation of Roman, Moorish, and Catholic architecture. The tower is easy to climb and provides a fantastic vantage point of the town’s seascape and landscape peppered with stork nests. The small museum displays a limited selection of religious artifacts, but Sr. Zacariah, who is often found by the cathedral’s gate, will tell you the church’s history more comprehensively than any museum. (Open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-1pm. Museum ☎3.)

Cemitério Dos Judeus. One of a few Jewish cemeteries left in Europe, this cemetery is dedicated to the memory of the courageous Dr. Aristides de Sousa Mendes, who helped Jews escape the Nazis. The scattered marble gravestones were restored in 1952 and serve as symbols of one community’s long, often painful, history. (R. Leão Penedo, between the hospital and the soccer stadium. A 20min. walk from the tourist office. Cemetery and small museum open M-F 9:30am-12:30pm. Free.)

BEACHES AND NIGHTLIFE

Faro’s sandy beach, Praia de Faro, hides on an islet off the coast with the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa on one side. Take bus #16 from the bus station, the stop in front of the tourist office, or under the blue bus sign near Pousada da Juventude. From Faro, you can also explore Portugal’s southernmost point, the beautiful Ilha Deserta; boats leave from Faro’s central pier. (www.ilha-deserta.com. 30min.; 4 per day 10am-4:15pm, last return from the island at 6pm; ☎7.) Sidewalk cafes crowd the pedestrian walkways off the garden in the town center, and several bars liven R. Conselheiro Bívar and its side streets in July and August (the bar scene is pretty dead for the rest of the year).

OLhãO

Olhão (ol-YOWN, pop. 31,000), though it blatantly caters to tourism, takes pride in its status as the largest, most productive fishing port in the Algarve. The port stretches along the coast, paralleled by a strip of pork and fish restaurants nearly as long and twice as welcoming. Buildings are peeling and historical sights are few, but the region’s natural beauty, friendly locals, bird sanctuary, and necklace of unspoiled islands make the port town worth a trip.

Transportation. The train station is on Av. dos Combatentes da Grande Guerra, one block from Av. da República. (289 70 53 78. Open daily 6am-8pm.) Trains run to Faro (10min., 9-16 per day 6:37am-9:40pm, ☎1), Tavira (30min., 6-16 per day 8:16am-12:04am, ☎1.61), and Vila Real de Santo António (1hr., 10-11 per day 8:45am-12:33am, ☎3.01). The bus station is on R. General Humberto Delgado, one block from Av. da República. (289 70 21 57. Open M-F 7am-

7:30pm, Sa 7:05am-12:40pm and 1:30-6:30pm, Su and holidays 7:45am-12:40pm and 1:30-6:30pm.) EVA buses run to Faro (20min., 13 per day 7:35am-7:50pm, ☎1.75) Tavira (40min., 11 per day 8:15am-8:30pm, ☎2.40), and Vila Real de Santo António (1hr., 9 per day 8:55am-8pm, ☎3.90).

Orientation And Practical Information. To reach the tourist office from the train station, turn left onto Av. dos Combatentes da Grande Guerra and take a right onto Avenida da República past the Palácio da Justiça (5min.). From the bus station, turn right down R. General Humberto Delgado and then take another right onto Av. da República. Once on Av. da República, go straight until you reach Olhão’s main church. Here, Av. da República splits into three streets—take the middle path, R. do Comércio, which turns into a pedestrian street. Continue as far as possible, following the street right as it turns into R. da Lagoa. After a block, the street becomes a little plaza, Lg. Sebastião Martins Mestre, and the tourist office (#8A in the plaza) is directly opposite the Câmara Municipal. Its English-speaking staff has maps and ferry schedules. (289 71 39 36. Open M-F 9:30am-1pm and 2-5:30pm.) Internet access is at Olhão Internet at the end of R. Téofilo Braga. (289 70 10 40. max. 30min. Open M-F 10am-10pm, Sa 10am-8pm.) Lavanderia Olhanese, R. Téofilo Braga, 54, across from Pensão Bela Vista, does laundry for ☎2 per kg, with a 4kg minimum. (289 70 26 41. Open M-F 9am-1pm and 3-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm.) Other services include: police, R. 5 de Outobro, 178 (289 71 07 70); local Centro de Saúde, off R. Antero Nobre (289 70 02 60; open daily 8am-8pm); Farmácia Rocha, R. do Comércio, 120 (289 70 30 85), with a list of all of Olhão’s pharmacies, their numbers, and their hours; and the post office at Av. da República, 17 (289 70 06 00; open M-F 9am-7:30pm, Sa 9am-1pm and 3-7pm). Postal Code: 8700.

Accommodations And Food. To live like a king on a pauper’s budget, head to Pensão Bicuar, R. Vasco de Gama, 5, which has dark wood furnishings, chairs upholstered in red velvet, a kitchen, and a terrace with a magnificent view. From the tourist office, retrace back to R. do Comércio. (289 71 48 16; www.pension-bicuar.net. Reception 9am-midnight. Singles ☎30,with bath ☎35;

doubles ☎40/45, with small child ☎48; triples ☎55; quads ☎65. Discount for longer stays. Cash only.) Olhão’s year-round campground is the Parque de Campismo dos Bancários do Sul e Ilhas, off the highway outside of town. (289 70 03 00; www.sbsi.pt.) The town market is housed in two red brick buildings adjacent to the city gardens on R. 5 de Outobro, along the river near Pr. Patrão J. Lopes. (Open daily 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm.) Many eateries on Av. 5 de Outubro, including Restaurante O Bote, Av. 5 de Outubro, 122, serve the daily catch fresh off the boat. Although meat is offered, seafood is the star here—try the traditional entrees (☎5.75-11), like the scabbard fish. (289 72 11 83. Open M-Sa 11am-4pm and 7pm-midnight. Cash only.)

dAyTRiPs fROm OLhãO

iLhAs ARmOnA, cULATRA, And fAROL

Ferries go to Armona (30min.; July-Aug. 13 per day M-F 7:30am-8pm, Sa-Su 8am-8pm; Sept and June. M-F 9 per day 7:40am-7:30pm, Sa-Su 11 per day 8am-7:30pm; Oct.-May 3 per day 8:30am-5pm; last return July-Aug. 8:30pm, June 8pm; ☎2.90). Another fleet serves Culatra (45min.; June-Aug. every 2hr. 7am-7:30pm; Sept.-May 4 per day 7am-6:30pm; last return June-Aug. 8pm; ☎2.90) and Farol (1hr.; June-Aug. every 2hr. 7am-7:30pm; Sept.-May 4 per day 7am-6:30pm; last return June-Aug. 8:20pm; ☎3.50).

Long expanses of uncrowded, sandy beach and a glistening blue-green surf surround the islands off Olhão’s coast. Ilhas Armona and Culatra, the two major islands, and then Farol, trailing the far end of Culatra, are convenient daytrips from Olhão. Armona’s and Farol’s cottages house mostly vacationers, while Culatra remains a fishermen’s village. Farol is easily the most beautiful of the islands, but none of the three has the volume of tourists seen in other sections of the Algarve. The islands and sandbars just offshore

fence off the Atlantic, creating the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, an important 80km lagoon and wetland habitat home to an impressive variety of sea creatures and bird life. During the winter, roughly one-third of Europe’s flamingo population can be found here. If you’d like to roost in Armona, head to Camping Orbitur, on the central path 5min. from the dock, best for a family or group of friends willing to exchange the 30min. ferry for a late-morning sleep-in. (289 71 41 73. July-Aug. 4-night min. stay; Sept.-June 2-night min. stay. 4-person bungalow in summer ☎43-56; in winter ☎30-41. Cash only.) While in Armona, check out the international Restaurante Santo António, at the entrance to the beach 15min. from the dock, down the central path. It’s renowned for its specialty: grilled chocos (large squid) caught right off the island’s coast. (289 70 65 49. Meals ☎8-11. Open Apr. 15-Sept. 15 9am-11pm. Cash only.)

QUinTA de mARim

Only local buses stop within walking distance of Quinta de Marim. Rodoviária buses go to the town of Marim but will leave you stranded on the highway, far from the park. Local CircuitOlhão buses drop you at “Parque de Campismo,” and then it’s a 3min. walk over the train tracks to the park’s main gates. Take the green line from the bus station or across from the gardens near the church on Av. 5 de Outubro (10min.; M-F 13 per day 7:15am-7:15pm, Sa 6 per day 8:15am-1:15pm; ☎0.80). To get back to Olhão, take the yellow line, which stops across the street from the green line in front of the campground (10min.; M-F 13 per day 8:30am-8:30pm, Sa 7 per day 8:30am-2:30pm; ☎0.80). Reception/front gate open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-6pm (289 70 02 10). Visitors center open M-F 9am-12:30 and 2-5:30pm. ☎1.50 per person, students and under 18 ☎1.

A serene, isolated escape to nature, Quinta de Marim was created in 1987 as a representative sample of the larger Ria Formosa Natural Park. An internationally recognized protected wetland, the park provides a haven for many endangered birds and fish. On the 3km walking trail, you’ll find salt marshes, sand dunes, fields, and pine forests as well as paths through blooming rhododendron bushes. The park, originally created for conservation and educational

purposes, is now suffering from governmental neglect; funds are being diverted to other projects. The bird specialists, however, are not deterred by the decrease in funding. The hospital is still fully functional and, though prolonged human contact tames the birds and is detrimental to their redistribution, the doctors gladly oblige eager visitors looking for a more hands-on experience. Visitors can also play with the two champion Portuguese water dogs in the park’s kennel. (Open M-F 11am-1pm and 2-4pm.)

AlentejoVast golden plains dotted with giant stone castles and tiny red-roofed villages cover the region between the Tagus and the Algarve. A sharp contrast to the commotion of Lisboa or the wilds of the Algarve, the Alentejo graces travelers with a more stately, historical setting. Évora, Elvas, and other remarkably well-preserved towns lie in the Alto Alentejo, while Beja remains the only major town on the seemingly endless Baixo Alentejo plain. The region is known primarily for its cork; more than two-thirds of the world’s supply comes from here, and the local villages specialize in cork handicrafts. The area is best in the spring; fiery temperatures can turn the Alentejo into an oven in summer.

ÉvORA

Évora (pop. 55,000) is the capital and largest city of the Alentejo region, with a wall-enclosed old city of palaces, churches, and Roman ruins at its center. The city is also famous for its unusual medieval approach to recycling (see Capela dos Ossos, ). Across the city, mock burials decorate the sidewalks in lieu of benches. During the school year, university students enliven the town, especially during the Queima das Fitas (Burning of the Ribbons), a week-long graduation celebration the last week of May with live music, dancing, and drunken merriment. The town remains surprisingly active in the summer, despite the absence of students and the locals’ inclinations to vacation on the coast.

TRANSPORTATION

Trains: Lg. da Estação de CP, at Av. dos Combatentes de Grande Guerra (266 70 21 25 or 808 20 82 08; www.cp.pt). Service to: Beja (1hr., 5 per day 6:22am-6:44pm, ☎6.40-11.40), Faro (5hr.; 6:22am, 12:44pm; ☎12.80-19.80), and Lisboa (2hr., 3 per day 6:44am-6:44pm, ☎11.10).

Buses: Av. São Sebastião (266 76 94 10), 300m outside the town wall. More frequent schedules than trains. Buses go to: Beja (1hr., 7 per day 8:45am-8pm, ☎7); Braga (8-10hr.; M-Sa 8 per day 6am-8:45pm, Su 9 per day 6am-9:30pm; ☎20) via Porto (6-8hr., 6 per day 8:30am-8pm, ☎16); Castelo Branco (2-3hr., 6 per day 6am-5pm, ☎11.90); Elvas (1hr.; 12:15, 1:45, 5pm; ☎9.50); Faro (4hr.; 8:45am, 2:30, 5:15pm; ☎13.50); Lisboa (2hr., 9 per day 7am-8pm, ☎10.80); Portalegre (1hr.; 10:25am, 2, 5:15pm; ☎10); Setúbal (1hr.; 8:30, 10:15am, 2pm; ☎8.70).

Taxis: 266 73 47 34. 24hr. taxis wait in Pr. do Giraldo and Pr. do Sertorio.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

To reach Praça do Giraldo from the bus station (15min. walk), turn right up Av. São Sebastião, keeping the small white wall to the right, and continue straight when it turns into R. Serpa Pinto at the city wall. Follow this road into Pr. do Giraldo, the center of the city. All major sights are a short walk from this square. No direct bus connects the train station to the center of town. By foot, go up Av. Dr. Baronha and continue straight as it turns into R. da República at the city wall. To avoid either walk, hail a taxi (☎3).

Tourist Office: Pr. do Giraldo, 73 (266 77 70 71; www.cm-evora.pt/guiaturistico). Staff speaks English, French, and Spanish and provides maps, lists of restaurants, and public phones. Self-guided audio tours of the city ☎2, due back before 5:30pm. Wheelchair-accessible. Open daily May-Oct. 9am-7pm; Nov.-Apr. 9am-6pm.

Currency Exchange: 24hr. ATM outside the tourist office. Several banks line Pr. do Giraldo, all open M-F 8:30am-3pm.

Police: R. Francisco Soares Lusitano (266 70 20 22).

Pharmacy: Farmácia Galeno, R. da República, 34 (266 70 32 77). Open M-F 9am-1pm and 3-7pm.

Hospital: Hospital do Espírito Santo, Lg. Senhor Jesus da Pobreza (266 74 01 00 or 266 75 84 24), near city wall and the intersection with R. Dr. Augusto Eduardo Nunes.

Internet Access: CyberCenter, R. dos Mercadores, 42 (266 74 69 23). 20 high-speed computers. ☎1.50 per hr. Open M-F 10:30am-11pm, Sa-Su 2-10pm. Bar Oficin@, R. Moeda, 27 (266 70 73 12). Only 1 computer, so expect to wait. ☎0.50 per 10min., ☎2.50 per hour. Open Tu-F 8pm-2am, Sa 9pm-2am.

Post Office: R. de Olivença (266 74 54 80; fax 74 54 86). Poste Restante and fax. Open M-F 8:30am-6pm. Main office on Largo Portas de Moura (266 74 98 40). Postal Code: 7999.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND CAMPING

Most accommodations cluster on side streets off Pr. do Giraldo and are well advertised. They’re crowded in the summer, especially during graduation in May and the Feira de São João, the June celebration of Évora’s patron saint. Private quartos, about ☎25-30 per double, are pleasant summer alternatives to the crowded pensões; check with the tourist office for listings.

Casa dos Teles, R. Romão Ramalho, 27 (266 70 24 53, casadosteles@planetaelix.pt). 1 block off Pr. do Giraldo. The friendly dog gives this 200-year-old private home a welcoming feel. Spacious, private rooms are decorated with pictures from around town. All with TV, 4 rooms with A/C. The top room serves as a double, triple, or quint with private bath and fridge. Reserve ahead. June-Sept. singles ☎20-25; doubles ☎30-35, with bath ☎40; triple/quad ☎40. Oct.-May ☎5 less. Cash only.

Casa Palma, R. Bernardo Matos, 29A (266 70 35 60). Located right off Pr. da República. The house is over 100 years old and looks like an antiques market. Its grandmotherly owner keeps it in excellent shape and charges reasonable prices for petite rooms on the top floor. She’ll meet you at the door every time you return, as well. All rooms have TV, some a small balcony. Singles ☎20-25; doubles ☎30-35. Cash only.

Pensão Residencial Giraldo, R. dos Mercadores, 27 (266 70 58 33). Spacious, comfortable rooms have TV and carpeting. Clean rooms with A/C make for a refuge from the streets outside. Reserve ahead. In summer singles ☎30, with bath ☎35; doubles ☎35/45; triples ☎55. In winter ☎5-15 less. Cash only.

FOOD

Restaurants are scattered near Pr. do Giraldo, especially along Rua dos Mercadores and the small streets off Rua 5 de Outubro, but many are tourist-oriented; to find inexpensive local favorites, wander away from the center and the main sights. The market, near Pr. da República, sells crafts and regional goods as well as cheese and produce. (Open Tu-Su 7am-1pm.)

Condestável, R. Diogo Câo, 3 (266 70 20 08; www.softline.pt/residencial-diana). Cheap, simple, but delicious. Enjoy a two-course meal with soup, fish or meat, drink and coffee for ☎5.90-7. Also nice for a drink at night. Open daily 8am-midnight. MC/V.

Pane & Vino, R. Diogo Cão, 22 (266 74 69 60). This popular corner restaurant’s classic, thin-crust pizzas are too good to be missed. Pizzas and pasta ☎6-9. Open Tu-Su noon-3pm and 7-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.

D. Miguel, Trav. de Cavella ( 266 74 14 42) The cheapest Portuguese meal you can find in Évora. The food has a homemade feel with several meat and fish options. Entrees ☎5-7. Open M-F 8am-10pm. Cash only.

SIGHTS

Capela Dos Ossos. Few places on earth rival the Capela dos Ossos in spookiness. The “Chapel of Bones” warmly welcomes visitors: “ Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos ” (“We bones that are here are waiting for yours”). In order to provide a hallowed space to reflect on the profundity of life and death, three Franciscan monks built this chapel from the remains of over 5000 anonymous bodies buried in surrounding churches. The walls are covered in neatly piled bones and skulls, while the three founders lie enclosed in stone sarcophagi. For thrills and chills, check out the preserved corpse hanging from one of the chapel’s walls, then go give Mom a call: legend has it that the body is a son cursed by his mother for disobedience and cruelty. (Pr. 1 de Maio. Follow R. da República from Pr. do Giraldo, then take a right into Pr. 1 de Maio; next to the Convento de São Francisco to the right of the church steps. 266 70

45 21. Open M-Sa May-Sept. 9am-12:50pm and 2:30-5:45pm; Oct.-Apr. 9am-12:50pm and 2:30-5:15pm. Last entrance 5min. before closing. An audio tour plays in several languages inside the chapel. ☎1.50, students ☎1, ☎0.50 more for camera use—well worth it.)

Basílica Catedral. Built during the 12th century, the Basílica Catedral, also known as the Sé, looms over Évora with its two giant asymmetrical towers like a mad scientist’s castle. Inside, however, its ornate carvings and splendid architecture are similar to those of other European cathedrals. Climb the cloisters’ stairs to see the view of Évora from the terrace or tour the Museu de Arte Sacra, which displays religious ornaments and sculptures from the 17th and 18th centuries. (From the center of Pr. do Giraldo, head to the end of R. 5 de Outubro. Cathedral open M 9am-12:45pm and 2-4:45pm, Tu-Su 9am-4:45pm. Cloisters open daily 9am-noon and 2-4:30pm. Museum open Tu-Su in summer 9am-4:30pm; in winter 9am-12:30pm and 2-4:30pm. Cloisters and museum ☎3, students ☎2.50; cloisters and cathedral ☎1.50, cathedral only ☎1.)

Templo Romano. Enormous and well-preserved columns of an ancient Roman temple sit in a spacious square at the highest point of the city, perpetual reminders of Évora’s long history. The small temple was built in the AD first century from local granite but walled up in the Middle Ages and used as a slaughter house. It is widely believed, despite scarce historical evidence, that the small temple was built in honor of the goddess Diana.

Igreja De São João De Evangelista And Palácio De Duques De Cadaval. Also known as the Convento dos Loíos, the Igreja faces the Templo Romano. The church and ducal palace are owned by the Cadaval family, who restored the buildings with their personal fortunes in 1957-58. The interior of the church is covered with dazzling azulejos, and a beautiful cloister with an outdoor cafe is open to tourists. The main part of the convent is now used as a luxury pousada for guests looking for a unique overnight experience. (Lg. Conde do Vila Flor. Spring-fall Tu-Su open 10am-12:30pm and 2-6pm; winter 10am-12:30pm and 2-5pm. ☎3, ☎5 for church and next-door exhibition hall.)

NIGHTLIFE

Évora’s nightlife is fueled largely by the students from the university, who fill the bars after midnight and then move on to the clubs. Wednesday nights are student nights at most establishments, so expect larger crowds. The cafes in Pr. do Giraldo are great for socializing and stay busy until around midnight. The infamous Praxis, R. Valdevinos, is the only nightclub in town, boasting four different bars and two floors for dancing. (266 70 81 77. Beer ☎1.50. Mixed drinks ☎4-6. Min. consumption ☎7 for men, ☎5 for women. Open W-Su until 6am.) A warehouse-like bar/cafe, Café de Cidade, R. das Alca Carias, 1, swarms with local crowds. (266 78 51 63. Open M-Sa 11am-2am. AmEx/MC/V.)

eLvAs

Elvas (pop. 25,000) is located 13km from the Spanish border and is surrounded by fields of vineyards and olive trees. The quiet, hilly town has an inviting main square and narrow, steep cobblestone streets leading to the fortified city walls. To walk into the old portion of town is to find a lost time capsule: the traditional architecture is straight out of the 19th century. The city pulses with the vibe of a border town; mixed conversations of Portuguese and Spanish, affectionately referred to by locals as Portanhol, fills the streets. Elvas’s main sight, the Aqueduto da Amoreira, clearly visible from many kilometers away, marks the entrance to the town. Begun in 1498 and not finished until 1622, the colossal structure is Europe’s largest aqueduct—its 843 arches extend almost 8km. The castelo, above Pr. da República, has a pleasant view of the aqueduct and the infinite rows of olive trees on the horizon; a stairwell to the right of the entrance leads up to the castle walls. (Castle open M-F 9:30am-1pm and 2:30-5:30pm. ☎1.50, ages 14-25 and seniors ☎0.75, under 14 free.) The Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Assunção, better known as the antiga Sé, in Pr. da República, was designed by Francisco de Arruda, who was also the mind behind the great aqueduct. The Igreja features 17th-century azulejos. (268 62 59 97. Open M-F 10am-12:30pm and 3-6pm. Mass Su 6pm. Free.)

António Mocisso e Garcia Coelho, R. Aires Varela, 15, is one of the most reasonably priced accommodations in town. From the tourist

office, take a right out of the praça and then the first left; go left at the end of the street and reception is on the right. The small rooms have TV, A/C, fridge, desk, and private baths. Reservations are recommended June-September. (268 62 21 26. Breakfast included. Check-in after noon. Singles ☎20; doubles ☎30; triples ☎40; quads ☎50. Cash only.) For camping, the Parque de Campismo is ideal. From the bus station, follow the road that leads toward the aqueduct until the park’s sign. (268 62 89 97. Reception daily 8am-11pm. ☎3.50 per person; ☎3.50 per car; ☎5 per tent. Cash only.) Fresh fish, fruit, and vegetables abound at the mercado municipal on Av. de São Domingos. (Open M-Sa 7am-1pm.) O Lagar, R. Nova da Vedoria, 7, is considered by many the best restaurant in Elvas. The bacalhau, bife, and espetada à Lagar, a succulent layering of veal steak with cheese and ham in between, are recommended. (966 03 89 95. Entrees ☎6.50-13.50. Open M-W and F-Su noon-4pm and 7-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Taxis (268 62 22 87 or 266 73 06 90) provide the only transportation to town (☎5). The bus station (268 62 28 75), at the entrance of the city, is the best option, with buses going to: Castelo Branco (4hr.; 1, 4:30pm; ☎17.50) via Estremoz; Évora (1hr.; 6:40, 8:30am, 6:30pm; ☎10.50); Faro (6hr., 6:40am, ☎18.50); Lisboa (3hr., 8 per day 6:40am-6:30pm, ☎15); Portalegre (1hr.; 7am, 1, 4:30pm; ☎12.40). Some buses stop at the entrance of town, others leave you at the bus station. To get downtown, exit through the stairs and go right until the rotary, then take a right and you will see the entrance to the walls of the city. The tourist office is in Praça da República. From the city’s entrance, take a right and go through Lg. da Misericórdia; continue up to R. da Cadeia and after a series of fountains take a left into Pr. da República—the office is on the right after a 5min. walk. (268 62 22 36. Open May-Oct. M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm; Nov.-Apr. M-F 9am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm.) The Banco Espírito Santo is in Pr. da República, in front of the tourist office, and has a 24hr. ATM (268 63 92 40; open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm). Other local services include: police, R. André Gonçalves (268 63 94 70), Farmácia Moutta, directly behind the tourist office (268 62 21 50; open daily 9am-1pm and 3-7pm), and Hospital de Santa Luzia,

Estrada Nacional, 4 (268 63 76 00). Centro da Juventude on Praça da Republica provides free internet access for up to 30min., but the limit is only enforced if people are waiting. (268 62 30 90. Open M-F 9am-7pm.) Another option is Espaço Internet, on the road behind Centro da Juventude off the Praça. (268 62 30 90.) The tourist office offers 5min. of free internet access. The post office, Lg. da Misericórdia, 1, is one block behind the tourist office to your right. (268 63 90 33. Open M-F 9am-6pm.) Postal Code: 7350.

mARvãO

This Portuguese candidate for UNESCO World Heritage status is one of the Alentejo’s best-kept secrets. The ancient walled town of Marvão (pop. 185) floats like an island over the vast expanse of the Alentejo plains; in fact, it is the highest town in Portugal. The hills and meadows of the Parque Natural de São Mamede only add to the village’s appeal. Almost all of the town’s whitewashed houses are enclosed by walls that have protected the village for nearly 700 years—before the walls’ construction, Marvão was repeatedly seized. Marvão’s noteworthy 13th-century castelo, atop the ridge at the west end of town, contains a museum of archaic weaponry, but the real highlight is the breathtaking view of the Alentejo’s arid plains. Remnants dating as far back as the Paleolithic era are on display at the Museu Municipal, near the castle in the Igreja de Santa Maria. (245 90 91 32. Open daily 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm. ☎1, students ☎0.75.) From Elvas, take the train to Portalegre (50min.; 5:26am, 2:31pm; ☎3.10) or a bus from Castelo Branco (1hr.; 10:45am, 2:15pm; ☎10) or from Évora (1hr.; 1:30, 5:15, 5:30pm; ☎11) and then a bus from Portalegre to Marvão (50min.; M-F 10:30am, 5:10, 5:35pm; returning at 7am and 1:10pm; ☎2.60-3.40). The bus will drop you off outside the town wall. Enter through a gate and walk up R. Cima until you see the stone whipping post in Pr. Pelourinho. From here, R. Espírito Santo leads toward the castelo and the tourist office. (245 90 91 31. Open daily 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30 pm.)

BejA

The stunning landscape alone—seemingly endless stretches of burnt grass punctuated by olive trees, vineyards, cattle, and half-stripped cork trees—makes it worth traveling to Beja (pop. 35,000). The town’s winding cobblestone streets bear the footprints of the likes of Julius Caesar and Arab poet Al-Mu’Tamid. Beja has grown into a small, modern town relatively untouched by tourism and still steeped in tradition; the sounds of late-afternoon bocce games echo through the squares. Though Beja can be seen in a day, it is a convenient base for a tour of the villages nearby and can serve as a calm hiatus from the hurried rhythm of traveling.

Transportation. Trains run from the station (284 32 61 35), outside the historical center on Lg. da Estação, to Évora (1hr., 7 per day 6:22am-6:44pm, ☎8.40), Faro (3hr.; 8:53am, 1:55pm; ☎8.50) via Funcheira, and Lisboa (2-3hr., 5 per day 8:10am-7:10pm, ☎8.60). Timetables and destinations can be found on the schedules opposite the ticket window. The bus station (284 31 36 20; open M-F 6:30am-8:30pm, Su 7:30am-8:30pm) is on R. Cidade de São Paulo, across from Av. do Brasil. Most attendants speak English. Buses go to: Faro (3hr., 3 per day 10:10am-7pm, ☎12.70); Lagos via Albufeira (3hr., 3:30pm, ☎13.20); Lisboa (3hr., 6 per day 7:45am-3pm, ☎12.75) via Évora (3hr., 4 per day 6:45am-6pm, ☎5.75-7.50); Portoalegre (5hr., 3 per day 11:30am-6pm, ☎7.70-12.70); Serpa (35min., 7 per day 6:50am-6:20pm, ☎2.88); Sines via Santiago de Cacém (3hr., 4:20pm, ☎6.05).

Orientation And Practical Information. The tourist office, R. Capitão J.F. de Sousa, 25, provides free internet access, comprehensive city and regional maps (also available at most tourist stops in the city), and information pamphlets about Beja and other nearby villages. To get to the tourist office from the train station, take a left out of the station and then a right onto the main road, Lg. da Estação. At the rotary, go straight up R. Pedro Victor and straight again up R. Frei Manuel do Cenáculo. Continue uphill onto R. D. Nuno Álvares Pereira with the park (Jardim Gago Coutinho e S. Cabral) on your left. Take a right at the rotary onto R. Portas de

Mertola and a left onto R. de Mertola. Turn right onto the pedestrian street R. J.F. de Sousa; the tourist office is about 200m up the street on the right. (284 31 19 13. Open M-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-6pm.) Local services include: banks (open M-F 8am-3pm); ATMs near the bus station and by the tourist office; luggage storage at the bus station on weekdays (☎1.50 per day); laundry at Lavanderia Baldeira, R. Dr. Brito Camacho, 11 (284 32 99 57; open M-F 9:30am-1pm and 3-7pm, Sa 9:30am-1pm); police on R. D. Nuno Álvares Pereira (284 32 20 22 or 32 20 23), a 2min. walk from the tourist office across R. Portas de Mertola; taxis, with hubs at the bus station and Lg. Conde de Boavista; several pharmacies in the historical center, including Farmácia J.A. Pacheco, R. Capitão J.F. de Sousa (284 32 25 01; open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 9am-1pm). Free internet can be found at the Instituto Português da Juventude (284 31 49 00; open M-F 9am-8pm), next to the Pousada de Juventude de Beja on R. Professor Janeiro Acabado, as well as at the library, on R. Luís de Camões. (284 31 19 00. Open M 2:30-11pm, Tu-F 9:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-11pm, Sa 2:30-8pm). To get to the post office, Lg. dos Correios, take a left from the tourist office and a right onto R. Infantaria. Poste Restante and fax are available. (284 32 21 11. Open M-F 8:30am-6:30pm.) Postal Code: 7800.

Accommodations And Camping. Most accommodations are located within a few blocks of the tourist office or the bus station, like the Pousada de Juventude de Beja (HI), R. Professor Janeiro Acabado. From the front of the bus station, turn left at the rotunda on R. Cidade de São Paulo, then right on R. Professor Janeiro Acabado; the hostel is on the left. The government-run inn boasts impeccably clean rooms with lockable cabinets, a laundry room, and a kitchen. Doubles, quads, and six-person rooms are available. (284 32 54 58. Breakfast included. Reception 8am-midnight. July-Aug. dorms ☎11; doubles with bath ☎26.) Marked by a two-story vine of fuschia flowers, the three-star Residencial Bejense, R. Capitão J.F. de Sousa, 57, is just steps from the tourist office. On the other side of a stunning doorway, 24 spotless individually themed rooms await, all with marble bathrooms, TVs, phones, A/C, and tiny balconies. (284 31 15 70; www.residencialbejense.com. Breakfast included. Singles ☎32; doubles ☎45, with 3rd bed ☎55. AmEx/MC/V.) The Parque

de Campismo Municipal de Beja, Av. Vasco da Gama, offers the security of an enclosed campground and modern amenities such as free showers, bathrooms, cheap electricity (☎1.75), and a bar. (284 31 19 11. Reception 8am-11pm. Oct.-Apr. ☎1.75 per person; ☎1.20 per tent; May-Sept. ☎2.75/1.85. 10% discount with student ID and up to 25% discount for extended stays.)

Food. The Mercado 25 de Abril, in Lg. do St. Amaro next to the castle at the end of town, has a small selection of local produce. (Open M-Sa 6am-1:30pm.) Head to the Casa de Pasto O Saiote, R. de Biscainha, 6, for filling portions of no-frills, classic Alentejano fare amid locals. Leaving the tourist office, turn left and walk nearly to the end of the block; R. de Biscainha is a small side street on the right. Try the carne de porco à l’Alentejana (pieces of pork in a light, buttery sauce) and some of the local wine. (284 32 92 89. Entrees ☎5-7.50. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7-10pm. MC/V.) For a quick, greasy, and delicious bite of chicken or for one of the deepest baskets of fries in Portugal (☎2), pop by Restaurante O Frangote, R. Professor Bento de Jesus Caraça, 4, is a self-serve, cafeteria-style cafe that features creative offerings, including tofu de fricassé and “bacalhau” com natas, a meatless take on the traditional codfish plate. (284 32 02 67. Open M-Th 9am-8pm, F 9am-5:30pm.)

Sights. At the center of the historic area lies the Convento de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, at Lg. de Conceição. Take a right from the tourist office and walk down Pr. Diogo Fernandes de Beja. Go right on R. Dr. Brito Camacho, through Lg. de São João to Lg. da Conceição; the convent is on the right. The convent is known in French and Portuguese literary circles as the site of an illicit love affair between Sister Mariana Alcoforado and Noël Bouton, a French Marquis who enlisted to reorganize the Portuguese army in 1665. The romance is chronicled in the 1669 book Cartas Portuguesas (Portuguese Letters), widely considered a fictional work, though a 2007 book by Myriam Cyr attempted to reassert the authenticity of these five letters of lust and betrayal. (284 32 33 51. Open Tu-F 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5:15pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-12:30pm. ☎2, students ☎1, Su free. Closed on holidays. Ticket includes the Museu Regional de Beja, on the 2nd fl. of the convent.) One block downhill from the Convento-Museu is the 13th-century Igreja de Santa Maria

da Feira, Lg. de Santa Maria. Briefly transformed into a mosque during the Moorish invasion, the church houses heavyset columns that divide three naves. The sobering altars display elaborate talha dourada carvings, while the retable within the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament features Renaissance paintings of the Last Supper. (Open daily for mass 6-6:30pm and Su noon. Free.) Take a right out of the Igreja, cross Lg. de Santa Maria, and take R. Dr. Aresta Branco until you see the Castelo de Beja, founded by the Celts as a fortified village around 40 BC and later transformed into a Roman fortress. The surrounding ramparts, turrets, and single tower are all that remain. (Closed for renovations through 2009.)

sines

Tiny Sines (pop. 16,000) is a seaside town steeped in Portuguese tradition. Its port, which inspired native son Vasco da Gama, remains the lifeline of the city, providing a source of fresh seafood for the local restaurants. Sines is also making a name for itself with its renowned World Music Festival (in late July) and its new Arts Center. From the unmistakably salty air to the impossibly narrow cobblestone streets and the bronze Da Gama overlooking the Atlantic, Sines offers an authentic Portuguese maritime experience.

Transportation. The bus station, R. Julio Gomes da Silva (269 63 22 68; free public toilets; open M-F 7am-1pm and 3-6:30pm, Sa-Su 7:45-11am and 3-6pm), is an easily missed small, green, shed-like office with “Rodoviária Alentejo” written on it. Plan ahead, since most trips out of Sines involve multiple transfers and departures are infrequent. Buses are the only way in and out of town and go to: Beja (3hr., M-F 8:20am, ☎6.05) via Santiago de Cacém; Lagos (3hr., 10:15am, ☎12.30); Lisboa (2hr.; schedules vary, roughly 3 per day 5:30am-10:30am; ☎12.50); Setúbal (2hr.; 3, 6pm; ☎11.50).

Orientation And Practical Information. Everything in Sines centers on the castle and its surroundings. A few shops line R. Serpa Pinto and R. Francisco Luís Lopes, both pedestrian walkways a block away from the castle. The tourist office is located right next to the castle, at the corner of R. Teófilo Braga, and offers pamphlets, maps, and other essential information in Portuguese, French, and

English. From the bus station, go through Pr. da República, take R. Marquês de Pombal, and go straight until Lg. Afonso Albuquerque; there, take a left and go straight until you reach the castle. (269 63 44 72. Open daily 10am-1pm and 2-6pm.) Local services include: banks and ATMs around Pr. da República and the castle; police, Av. General Humberto Delgado (269 63 22 54 or 269 63 66 11); hospital (Centro de Saúde), R. Julio Gomes da Silva, across from the bus station (269 63 21 72); laundry at Lavanderia Varanda, R. Francisco Luís Lopes, 47, (269 63 23 88; open M-F 9am-1pm and 3-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm); Farmácia Atlântico, on Pr. da República (269 63 00 10; open M-F 9am-1pm and 3-7pm). The library is found in the Centro de Arte de Sines, R. Cándido dos Reis, 49, and offers free internet access. From the castle, take R. Teófilo Braga and turn right at Pr. Tomás Ribeiro. Head for the two modern buildings made of pink granite at the end of the street. (269 86 00 80. Open M 2-8pm, Tu-F 10am-8pm.) Public internet access is also available at the post office in Pr. Tomás Ribeiro. (Open M-F 9am-6pm.) Postal Code: 7520.

Accommodations. As word has gotten out about Sines’s charm, truly affordable accommodations have become scarcer. Most accommodations in Sines take advantage of the limited tourist season, upping prices by an average of 10% during July and early August. Less than a block away from the castle is Pensão Carvalho, R. Gago Coutinho, 27. Guests buzzing into the pensão and should take note of the 1am curfew. Ask to use the second-floor terrace for a coastal panorama; the view itself is worth the cost of the stay. (269 63 20 19. Singles ☎22, with bath ☎32; doubles ☎35/42. Prices slightly lower Sept.-May. Cash only.) Though a pricier option, Residencial Veleiro, R. Sacadura Cabral, 19A, offers sea views from 12 of its 14 rooms, each of which is equipped with full bath and balcony. (269 63 47 51; www.residencialveleiro.com. Breakfast included. June-Aug. singles ☎70 doubles ☎75. Sept.-May ☎55/65. MC/V.)

Food. Sines offers both typical Alentejano meat-based dishes and an excellent variety of freshly caught seafood. Strict vegetarians beware: you may have to survive on dessert, fruit, and wine during your stay. Churrasqueira Regional, R. António Aleixo, 18, serves excellent grilled cuisine, churrasco (gently grilled meat) style. Be

prepared to wait around 40min. for the delicious frango assado (roast chicken; ☎5.50) and reward your patience with a slice of the revered chorlote, a four-layer chocolate mousse cake soaked in rum and topped with whipped cream. (269 08 70 95. Open M-Sa noon-3pm.) Tucked away from the city center, Restaurante A Nau, R. Marquês de Pombal, 103B, is a pleasant place to dine alongside local families and seasoned travelers at one of five extra-long picnic tables. Try the grilled sardines—if you don’t mind dealing with bones (or fish heads)—and don’t miss the true steal: the prato do dia (☎7.50), which includes an entree, bread, a bottle of wine, and espresso. Outdoor seating and takeout available. (269 08 76 51. Open daily 11am-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.) Underneath the wall of the castle is the ever-popular Ponto d’Encontro (Point of Encounter), Lg. do Poeta Bocage, 3. Going back and forth between courtyard benches and the spacious two-tiered interior, its young clientele indulge in tapas, crepes (☎4.50-6), and fish and meat dishes. (269 08 68 14. Beer ☎1. Mixed drinks ☎3. Entrees ☎8-9. Open daily noon-3am.)

Sights. Famous Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama was born in the keep of the Castelo de Sines, but the arresting stature of the castelo gives way to a deserted courtyard. Don’t let this discourage you; if you cross the courtyard to the right wall and climb the ramparts, you will be rewarded with a breathtaking ocean panorama. (Open daily 10am-noon and 2-6pm. Free.) Turn the corner to find the Igreja Matriz, a 14th-century church that was rebuilt during the 18th century. Outside, a bronze Vasco gazes over the open seas. (Open daily 9am-6pm. Summer mass M-Sa 6:30, 7pm, Su 9:30, 11am; winter M-Sa 6:30pm, Su 9:30, 11am.) A recent addition to Sines, the Centro de Artes de Sines, located on R. Cândido dos Reis, 49, holds rotating exhibitions and houses the municipal library. It is the only truly modern architecture in town and is worth a visit, if just for its unusual granite and glass composition. (269 86 00 80; www.centrodeartesdesines.com.pt. Open daily 2-8pm.) Praia Sines, also known as Praia Vasco da Gama, stretches along Av. Vasco da Gama. Lifeguard, bathrooms, and beach bar make for comfortable seaside excursions. The beach’s soft sand and indigo waters are undeniably beautiful; still, Sines is a port, and debris and refuse from ships and nearby fisheries collect near the beach wall.