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Welcomes you to
Co Founder International Association of Canine Professionals
IACP Member of the Year Internationally 2010 Inducted into the Hall of Fame 2011
PUPPY CLASS HOMEWORK
Mary Mazzeri © 2006
Kindergarten Class Syllabus Week One
1. AKC S.T.A.R. Program
2. Housebreaking & Crate Training
3. Drag line-getting Connected
4. Jumping Up & Yielding
5. Management & Relational Skills
6. Wait! In the Crate/At the Door
7. Tethering, Marking, Naming
Week Two
1. Relaxation/Handling Exercises
2. Come Command
3. Bite Inhibition-Level 1: No hard bites
4. Four on the Floor: Building self-control
5. Socialization
6. Leadership
Week Three
1. Socialization-Puppy playtime Pass Puppies
2. Bite Inhibition-Level 2 “Easy” with human flesh
3. Identification Options
4. Shaping Sit, down and stand
5. Nutrition
6. Solving Problems
Week Four
1. Social Recall
2. Body Handling
3. “Off”
4. Bite Inhibition-Level 3 Puppy Picnic-Resource Guarding
5. Eye contact: Building Leadership through Attention
6. Puppy Stay
7. Yielding
Week Five
1. Socialization/Handling
� Pass the puppies
� Recall & Sit from play
2. Bite Inhibition-Level 4 Children!
3. Obedience review: From signal to verbal cues
4. Wait at the door
5. “Leave It”
Week Six
1. Responsible Dog Ownership
2. Confidence Building
3. Sneak Away Demo
4. S.T.A.R. Evaluation/Graduation – What’s next? What’s next?
PUPPY CLASS HOMEWORK
Mary Mazzeri © 2006
AKC S.T.A.R. PUPPY
PROGRAM
What is it?
The AKC’s STAR puppy program
is designed to get puppies and
owners off to a good start. It is an incentive program
for responsible dog owners who have made time to
take their new puppies through a basic training class.
When you complete a puppy class taught by an
approved AKC Evaluator, your puppy is eligible to be
enrolled in the AK.C. S.T.A.R. Puppy Program. All
purebred and mixed breed puppies are eligible if
they meet the requirements listed below.
Your pup will receive the AKC S.T.A.R. Medal and
your pup will be listed in the AKC records. You’ll also
receive a frameable certificate; the AKC Puppy
handbook; Discount on the AKC Microchip
Companion Animal Recovery Program; a monthly E-
mail newsletter.
A key component of the program is you, the
responsible dog owner. You’ll need to agree to the
AKC CGC Responsibility Pledge:
I will be responsible for my dog’s health needs
including
• veterinary care
• proper nutrition, diet, clean water
• daily exercise and grooming
I will be responsible for my dog’s safety by:
• providing fencing,
• using a leash in public
• Having some visible form of ID and/or
microchip/tattoo ID I will
• I will provide supervision when my dog is with
children
• I will not allow my dog to infringe on the rights
of others.
• I’ll not allow my dog to run loose in the
neighborhood
• I won’t allow my dog to be a nuisance barker
• I will pick up/properly dispose of my dog’s
waste at home and in all public places
I will be responsible for my dog’s quality of life
• I will teach my dog basic training
• I will give my dog attention and playtime
• I understand owning a dog is a commitment
of care, time and resources.
20 Steps to success: The S.T.A.R. Test
����Socialization �Training �Activity�Responsibility
OWNER:
1. Maintain puppy’s health (Health Certificate)
2. Owner agrees to STAR Pledge
3. Owner describes daily play/exercise plan
4. Attends all 6 STAR classes
5. Brings poop clean up bags to class
6. Owner obtains ID Collar tag
PUPPY:
7. Is free of aggression to people
8. Is free of aggression toward other dogs
9. Tolerates collar/harness (tethering)
10. Owner can restrain puppy
11. Pup allows owner to take away treat or toy
12. Allows petting by person other than owner
13. Allows owner handling (ears, feet)
14. Walk on a leash 15 ft.
15. Walks by people 5 ft away
16. Sit on command (lure OK)
17. Down on command (lure OK)
18. Comes to owner from 5 ft. on recall
19. React/recover from distraction 15 ft.
20. Stays on leash with instructor while owner walks
away then returns
Signed
___________________________________________
Dated ______________________
Keep this for your records.
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WEEK ONE
Successful puppy rearing requires understanding the why and how of effective management and relational
skills. Your assignment this week is to begin to assess what you have been doing correctly or what you need to
add, delete or change in the ways you manage and relate to your puppy.
���� READ the homework/written materials given each week: For example, this week read and study The STAR
Brochure & these Homework Pages for (WEEK ONE)
I. MANAGEMENT SKILLS: PLAN, PLAN, and PLAN!
�Puppy “In sight” or ‘In cage!” Set up for safe supervision and confinement: Baby gates for blocking
doorways, a dragline in the house, tethering, outside a fenced yard or enclosure, leash or long line outdoors
supervised.
Dragline Inside the home, when your puppy is not crated, use a 5 - 6' lightweight line and keep the puppy
under your direct visual supervision. Attach the dragline to the collar. The line can be used to prevent or
correct unwanted behaviors. (E.g. Chasing toddlers - step on the line; Destructive chewing - give a startling
snap when pup’s not looking, let him think that whatever he’s chewing on bit back!) or treat those problem
chew spots with Bitter Apple ™ Anti chewing spray/cream.
The Dragline makes a pup feel ‘connected’ to you. Be subtle -don’t chase your puppy.
Watch for training opportunities, when the puppy is trotting past you, call it “Fido, Come!” If he comes to you,
praise him and then let him go on his way. And, if he keeps on going, QUIETLY step on the line to stop him, pick
up the line and calmly tug him in AS you praise him. When you are unable to supervise your puppy the line
must be removed and your puppy should be confined to a cage.
The Dragline sets the foundation for later off leash control. Outside, use a 15-20 ft. long line with supervision.
The pup should not be allowed off leash outside of a fenced yard. Some pups will follow you off leash but that
tends to go away as a pup gets older, more confident and curious. Don’t give the pup the opportunity to
develop bad habits. (Chasing cars, children, bikes, wildlife, etc.) Stay connected!
Supervision: Someone capable of monitoring your pup’s activities (not a 5 year old) should always be
responsible for watching the pup closely when it is not confined. Puppy accidents, digging, chewing, etc. are
management problems. Supervise or safely confine puppy. Pups need exercise and rest, health care and
grooming, scheduled feeding and potty breaks. They need to learn to ‘yield’ to authority through obedience
training and companionship, leader recognition and rules to live by. Starting early in a pup’s life with these
investments will yield great riches over the life of your dog.
Confinement: Puppies need to be safely contained when they can’t be watched, even for just a few moments.
Be sure pup has eliminated before being crated for any length of time. The younger the puppy, the more often
it needs to eliminate, so plan accordingly.
CRATE WAIT: Teach your puppy to wait patiently in its cage when you open the door. Tell your puppy firmly,
“Wait!” just before you open the door 1-2 inches. Close it very suddenly if your pup tries to leave. Repeat the
Wait command and the opening/closing of the door until your pup stays put, then Close door, treat through
the openings in the crate, and praise it, and then open it again while you give your dog permission to come out.
Use “Free!” command and clap your hands invitingly so your pup knows that now it’s OK to come out.
Jumping: Pups must be corrected according to their age and temperament. With very young and soft
tempered dogs, merely turning away from a pup as it jumps often stops it. Reach to pet the pup only while it
has ‘4 paws on the floor’ but stop if the pup begins to jump again. Repeat until the pup will ‘contain itself’ in a
self-imposed standing or sitting position for calm touching and soothing praise. If the pup isn’t ‘getting it’,
stand on the dragline in such a way that it tightens as the pup tries to jump. For the bigger, bolder jumping
pup, try walking quickly ‘through the pup’ to an imaginary spot 5 ft. behind it. For a dog jumping on visitors or
children, control the line from behind and snap it sideways as the dog starts to jump, just enough to take it off
balance. We will soon teach the dog to ‘Sit for attention’ instead of jumping.
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NAMING Labels: Observe your puppy - praise and Name every behavior that you like and want to keep. (E.g.
“Good Sit!”) Praise them when they are doing something right and let them know what you call it!
Marking: Noticing and pinpointing a behavior with a verbal “Yes!” You will use it this week when the puppy
makes eye contact with you.
Reactions: When pup does something you don’t want it to do, are you calm, in control? Can you make a quick
emotionally detached correction (only if you catch the pup IN THE ACT!)? You want the pup to connect the
correction with their action instead of connecting the correction with you.
II. RELATIONAL SKILLS THE TRAINING “P.E.T.S.”
Play: Games of cooperation build good relationships.
Retrieving is the best game you can teach a pup. It teaches the pup to cooperate with you and exercises it at
the same time. �This week, play inside with your pup on the line to help it to come back to you. Don’t be in a
hurry to take the toy from the puppy. Pet and praise it for bringing the object to you, then use 2 or 3 toys to
trade. (Don’t tug toys out of pup’s mouth-wait for him to give it up.) Label the act of picking something up
(Fetch, Take it or Get it etc) Label the act of releasing (Drop, Give, or Out etc.)
Hide and Seek in the house or in a fenced area. Wait till pup is not looking then hide; call the pup to initiate a
search. Give it big praise for finding you.
AVOID games of agitation and confrontation (tug of war, wrestling, roughhousing). Rough games can create a
biting dog you can’t control. They may grow up to bite some innocent bystander and need to be destroyed.
Roughness instills roughness.
“He who controls the game is alpha (the leader) in the dog’s mind.”
Eating: Feeding on a schedule, 2-3 times daily makes housebreaking easier (develops regularity). Use this
opportunity to start teaching the pups the word “Come!” Call your pup to its food bowl and let him eat his
reward in increments, letting it see you are adding more food to its bowl on the floor. This helps the puppy to
relax when people are around its food bowl. It is important for the pup to see where its food comes from. All
family members, who can, should have turns calling. Parents should help/supervise small children. Gently and
briefly pet the puppy while it is eating. Inform your instructor if your pup is stiffening and growling.
“He who controls food is alpha in the dog’s mind.”
Touching: Your dog must learn to accept handling and gentle, non-threatening restraint through the exercises
you will be taught in puppy class. This prepares the pup for grooming, vetting and emergencies. �This week,
practice daily, slow, calm, gentle massages with quiet, soothing reassurance when your puppy is in a quiet
mood.
Tethering: Tie your puppy’s leash to a chair and sit in the chair. The pup should be tied on a short leash (about
one foot), just long enough to lie down for 15-30 minutes while you sit at your computer, desk, watching TV,
etc. Be sure the pup is not chewing on your furniture or cords.
The pup can also be tethered to a doorknob or heavy furniture, but always within sight.
“HE who controls personal physical space is alpha in the dog’s mind.”
Sleeping: Do not startle a sleeping dog, but do expect a puppy that is lying down to move when you ask it to.
You should be able to gently touch and pet your dog while it is dozing. It is not good to allow a puppy to sleep
in any “people” beds. (See article “Where does your Dog Sleep?”) Help our dog accept sleeping in a cage in a
neutral area of the home (family room, utility room or kitchen). Cover the cage at night to minimize
distractions.
“He who controls territory is alpha in the dog’s mind.”
FOR NEXT WEEK: Read Assignments Bring your puppy to class hungry on buckle collar and leash. Bring your
written � activity/exercise plan for your puppy, your drag line, a roll of paper towel, a plastic “poop” bag (just
in case!) and a small bag of ’soft’ easily swallowed treats (i.e. dried liver, diced cheese, hot dog, etc.) Avoid
treats with dyes, chemicals, or sweeteners.
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Homework Practice: Management: Using the drag line with supervision- remove and confine your puppy
when you’re busy or gone- remember, your puppy is like a toddler.
Daily ACTIVITY Schedule: Write down a typical day in the life of your puppy. Turn in at class next week.
NAME-LABELS: Watch for good behavior and Reinforce with ‘labels’ e.g. “Down.” as they occur.
Bite Inhibition: Start distinguishing between play bites and protest bites! “Grrr-ouch!”
Come Use this command whenever you offer your dog food. e.g. “Fido, Come!”
-Feed meals in 3 ‘installments’ gradually tapering to 2 meals by five months.
“WAIT” Command: Teach the dog to “Wait” for permission to leave its cage. Open the door 1 inch. Close suddenly if
puppy tries to leave. Close gently and praise if he stays.
RELEASE Command “FREE!” Open door, give command in an happy tone and encourage puppy to leave the cage.
Tether pup to your chair 15 minutes once or twice a day to teach calmness and self control. Name ‘Down’ calmly
Games: 1. TRADE 1. Play retrieving with two or more similar objects. Make trading toys fun and use labels.(e.g. Fetch
and Give)
2. Play Hide and Seek. Hide just out of pup’s sight. Praise the pup when it finds you.
3.Food Puzzles- Put a treat inside a hollow toy. Encourage your Pup to work to get the treat.
HOUSEBREAKING & CRATE TRAINING
Instincts: Housebreaking can be one of the easiest
or most frustrating parts of having a puppy,
depending on how you go about the job. For the
average puppy, following basic rules should make
housebreaking faster and easier. All pups are born
with a strong instinct not to soil their beds. After
the first few weeks, when mom stops cleaning up
after them, they will crawl away from their litter
mates to relieve themselves.
When?
Pups reflexively need to eliminate within minutes
of eating. The time extends as they get older, but
during the housebreaking period, this time frame is
5-15 minutes for 7 to 20 week old pups
respectively. Knowing this, you’ll need to take the
puppy out soon after every meal or when the pup
has had a drink.
Pups will also need to go upon waking from a nap
or sleep. Don’t wait a moment to get them
outside!
Pups that have been playing and running around
for any length of time usually have a full bladder.
That’s why so many young dogs that have been left
outside for a while will come in and have an
accident. Note: Do NOT leave young pups outside
unattended, they are like toddlers and will eat
injurious/toxic objects or otherwise damage
themselves or your yard. As dogs mature, you can
slowly add unsupervised time outdoors.
Pups that have bladder, or kidney infections or are
on some medications will have to urinate
frequently. Some puppies have a medical basis for
urinary and bowel accidents. If your dog’s bowel or
bladder habits are not normal, take samples in to
your vet. Occasionally a pup that has had a slip or
fall may have a spinal or pelvic misalignment that
can affect the nerves that feed the bowel and
bladder and this can cause these problems. (These
are only diagnosable by a chiropractic
veterinarian.)
Nutrition
Some pups have bowel dysfunction because they
are on a diet that may be wrong for them. Over
feeding or food allergies can cause a pup to have
diarrhea or copious loose stool with excessively
foul odor. Be sure you are feeding a high quality
food that is nutrient dense but under 24% protein.
These usually require smaller portions for the size
of the dog, because the high quality food is better
assimilated by the dog’s body. Feeding must be
done on a schedule to encourage bowel regularity.
Generally 3 times a day for very young pups
tapering down to 2 times daily. (Any changes of
diet should be blended over a few days.) Feed no
food or water within 3 hrs. of bedtime.
Caging
A sturdy dog cage can be the best friend you and
your dog ever had. To a human, it may seem a jail,
but to the dog it becomes a cozy, safe den- its own
personal space- where it can retreat to rest, escape
confusion or adjust to new surroundings. If you
travel with your dog, or leave him in someone
else’s care, it is ‘home’ where ever it is set up.
Kennels are available through pet shops and mail
order catalogs. It can be large enough for your pup
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as an adult BUT then, it is important to partition it
off as he grows so it is just large enough for him to
stand, turn and lay down in. If the space is too
large, the pup will use one end for his bedroom
and the other for his bathroom! If a pup tends to
soil, absorbent materials should be removed until
your puppy catches on to the ‘hold it’ idea.
Start your pup right away. Set the cage up where
you’ll want him to sleep. This should not be in a
people bedroom after the first week but you
should be able to hear the pup when it whines. You
can feed the pup some of its meals in the cage and
leave a safe chew toy. You can put a large piece of
cardboard over the top and an old sheet or blanket
for added warmth and security. He may whine and
howl when you first put him in. Don’t worry and
don’t weaken, he will
settle down. This
discipline is vital to his
safety. Always remove
all collars when a dog
is crated.
Scheduling
When a pup has been quiet in a crate for several
hours, sudden whining should be taken as a signal
to take the pup outside. Young bladders may not
make it through the night. (The time will gradually
lengthen with maturity.) Morning is the time when
a dog has the strongest elimination pattern. It is
not unusual for a puppy to void bladder and bowel
2-3 times each morning-though not all do. Even as
adults, dogs should be taken out first thing in the
morning and once again right after breakfast. If
someone is home, pups should be taken out again
mid morning, noon, mid-afternoon, after dinner
and just before bedtime at a minimum. For those
who are gone during the day, arrangements should
be made with a competent neighbor or pet sitting
service for a young pup to be taken out at least
every 5 hours. Inactivity allows a pup to hold its
bladder longer but there are limits!
Patterning
Dogs are creatures of habit and learn through
patterning signals. When you set up your pup’s
schedule, you also need to be consistent in the
signals you give your dog as well as learning its
signals which indicate it needs to eliminate.
This requires CLOSE SUPERVISION whenever the
pup is out of its crate. The pup should only be
allowed in the room the person supervising is in. A
5-6ft. dragging clothes line must be attached to the
pup’s collar, which will aid in getting control of the
pup if it isn’t cooperative The level of supervision
must be very high for the person to catch the pups
signals (See next section). When the pup signals,
you should signal back by asking the pup if it wants
to “go outside?” and then immediately taking it to
the door nearest the designated outside potty
area. It is very important to GO WITH THE PUP to
the potty area. The area should be about 12 ft.
square. Be consistent in always taking the pup to
the same location. Stay with the pup till it goes.
Give elimination commands in a monotone voice
“Go Potty” whenever the pup stops sniffing or gets
distracted. Do not allow the pup to go outside the
area. Keep it within the area. As it goes, praise
quietly so it doesn’t get so excited it stops in the
middle of the job and finishes inside. When it
finishes praise more enthusiastically. It is very
important that the pup receive this reinforcement
the very moment it finishes, that’s why you have to
BE THERE the first few weeks or months. After it
goes it can then play for a while with you either in
the yard or back in the house. Wait 3 minutes. If it
doesn’t go, bring it back inside without play and
watch it very closely or crate the pup. If it’s been a
while since the pup last eliminated, you may need
to take it out again soon.
Signals
Pups give various signals and you’ll need to learn
your pup’s own way of telling you that it has to go.
• Whining is-usually distinctive, once you learn
to recognize it. Some pups bark, paw or stare
at you.
• Circling or pacing, acting unsettled or frantic.
• Sniffing- especially when combined with the
other signals.
• Going to the door to the outside area.
Accidents
(Catching and cleaning)
Being present indoors to tell your pup its wrong
when it starts to have an accident is just as
important as being present to tell your pup that its
a good puppy when it goes outside. If your level of
supervision is high, you are more likely to catch
your pup as it begins to go. Clap your hands, stomp
your feet and shout NO! You want to startle the
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dog while it’s doing the wrong thing. Go right in
and get the pup (step on the line if your pup starts
to run). As soon as you have the pup in hand,
change to a calm, friendly tone and go right into
your pattern. “Wanna go outside?” and take it
right out the door to the potty area. It may not
have to go any more but doing the pattern is
important. You must be very calm and sweet with a
pup in the outdoor potty area or it will think it is
wrong to go in front of you instead of thinking it is
wrong to go in the house.
When you come in, pick up or blot up the mess,
rinse with vinegar water to neutralize the ammonia
in the urine. Remember, if you don’t have time to
watch the pup, cage it, even if you have to run to
the bathroom. A dog cannot live in a cage but in
and out at intervals is OK. Common sense dictates
that the dog needs time for exercise, elimination,
eating, rest, play and interaction with its people
pack.
It is not generally advisable to paper train a dog in
the house because the dog becomes trained to the
location. It is always best to immediately start the
dog in the area you will want him to use.
Submissive Urination
Some puppies release urine when they are
frightened or excited or have a full bladder. This is
a whole different problem. It usually happens
when someone goes to reach for the puppy or in
reaction to some behavior directed to the pup
which overwhelms it. Do not correct, say or do
anything because that will only make it worse.
Fortunately, most pups grow out of this. Avoid
overly emotional greetings when you return home
or first greet the pup when its been sleeping in its
cage. Just calmly say “Let’s go outside” slip on the
collar (leash can be pre-attached to save time) and
get the pup out the door. Some guests you have
may have this effect on your pup and you will have
to teach them how to approach your pup to avoid
the submissive urination. Be sure the pup has just
gone outside and do the greeting on an easily
washed floor or surface. Wait till the pup settles
down a little, have them avoid looking at or talking
directly to the pup, they should sit on a chair or on
the floor and allow the pup to come to them. Even
then, they should speak to the pup in a quiet voice.
reach to pet only if the pup seems willing and avoid
eye contact. Overly emotional greetings tend to
develop many problems in dogs. It reinforces the
hyperactivity of some, increases dependency in
others and increases the level of separation anxiety
for dogs which have this tendency. Always wait
until your pup is past its initial, frantic, ‘hyper to
see you ‘ reaction before reaching to pet it. You
should always greet your pup calmly. Be patient
and consistent: Supervise or Confine your puppy
until its signaling habit is well established.
See the end of this manual for a “Housebreaking
Chart” that you can post for a couple of weeks until
you see your puppy’s elimination pattern emerge.
Yielding by Dick Russell
Yielding is based on the fact that among group
dwelling animals, it is the more dominant animals
that control space and that the higher the
dominance the greater and more specific space is
controlled. How does an animal control space? By
making other animals get out of it. The corollary to
this is that the ability to control space bestows
status.
This lead me to begin watching my own dogs. I
noticed that the higher-ranking ones spent time
causing the lower ones to get out of their way. A
low ranking one would move off the couch, for
instance, when a higher member approached. The
ability to cause other animals to Yield space (i.e., to
move out of the way) seems to be a matter of
force of personality rather than one of physical size
or strength, though they sometimes go hand in
hand.
Initially I practiced Yielding with my own dogs.
Then, when I would borrow and untrained dog to
demonstrate with at class, I'd have him move out
of my way a couple or three times before I
demonstrated what I had borrowed him for. I
noticed a couple of things almost immediately.
After a couple or three Yields the dogs gave me
their attention. This was not always the case before
I started having them Yield to me. Also, they
caught on to what I wanted them to catch on to
quicker. A short time later, I made it a part of what
I had the students teach their dogs to do. This
change caused an almost 100% improvement in
the results that my students were getting with
their dogs. Teaching your dog to move out of your
way makes everything else you will ever attempt to
teach him easier to teach.
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Yielding, by and large, makes everything else we
have, in the past, done to establish our leadership
completely unnecessary. With my own dogs, if they
get to a door before I do, I am the one who decides
who will go through first. At random times through
the day, as our paths intersect, I have my dogs
Yield the right of way to me. I do not have
‘aggression toward me’ problems. I do not face
challenges. I do not even have pushiness. Neither
do my students once they start this procedure.
Yielding does not seem to affect the (rare)
psychotic dog. Alone, it does not stop fear-
aggression. But, used in conjunction with balanced
training, to give the dog some structure and
discipline in his life, we are having very good
improvement with older fear aggressive dogs and
absolute cures with dogs under a year.
Procedure the first week (and you can extrapolate
to the other positions) is to stand in front of the
dog with him on a loose lead. Saying, "move, move,
move," walk into him. Do not kick the dog. Try not
to step on him. Do not stop walking into him until
he moves. As soon as he moves, even the slightest,
quit moving forward, give him relief. Praise and pet
him. Teaching Yielding is negative reinforcement
training. Folks with little dogs need to "Charley
Chaplin" into the dog with their toes turned out
and their heels together. Later, you have him move
farther to get relief. It is never, though, farther
than out of your way.
Yielding works best when it is practiced at random
times throughout the day as opposed to being
drilled. When you get through with that first cup of
coffee in the morning and are going to put the cup
in the sink, plot your path through the dog. Have
him move. Go rinse the cup out. Later, when you
get through playing on your computer, take a
moment to have the dog Yield to you. Tell him
"move" and go through him. Yielding is non-
confrontational. It allows you to interact with the
dog in a way that dogs interact with one another.
And, it says to him, in a language that he is
hardwired to understand, "I am the leader, you are
the follower."
Things to bring next week:
• Bring puppies somewhat hungry. (Feed only ½ their dinner.)
• Remember bone orders.
• Health Certificates must be mailed or turned in by next week’s class.
• Write and bring to class Exercise/Activity Plan. (a 1 day timetable of puppy scheduling/activity)
• Take puppy to potty area across from side door and CLEAN UP AFTER ANY SOLID WASTE. Bring extra ‘bags’.
• Puppy should have snug fitting martingale or clip collar with ID tag
• 4-6 ft. leash –No retractable leashes allowed
• Two people allowed per puppy (2 Adults or 1 child /8 years or older supervised by one adult is OK)
• Bring roll of paper towels, very small special treats, drag line, plastic poop bags
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WEEK TWO
Remember these important keys to successful puppy training:
1) Supervise or Confine
2) Patience
3) Persistence –Follow through
4) Consistency
Practice the homework just a few minutes at a time, several times a day, preferably just before meals. Make it a
part of your pup's life. Use the crate sensibly for housebreaking, puppy bladders mature slowly. Help your pup
develop habits you can live with. Bring the LABEL from your dog’s food bag to class next week: The Nutritional %
analysis and the List of ingredients.
Handling Exercises: Dogs tend to get excited easily. Our goal is to teach the puppy to calm itself, learn to cope
with stress and accept necessary handling (vetting, grooming, nail trimming etc.) You will get a variety of reactions
depending on your pup's temperament - from passive to hysterical or even aggressive behavior. You must as
gently or as FIRMLY as needed, hold the pup on its side until it stops struggling and relaxes. Massage once the
puppy self-relaxes. Be as gentle and calm as you can, but be prepared to be very persistent if required. Use a
scruff shake only for wild or aggressive behavior. Call your instructor if you cannot settle your dog. Practice the
two exercises: Calming Sit (restrained at the fore chest and collar at the back of the neck) and the “Settle” (Down
flat on its side with legs pointing away from you.)
Chewing: All pups need to chew. Provide appropriate, safe toys. If your pup persists in destructively chewing
something he shouldn't, use a throw can, or jerk the Dragline sharply and suddenly, without letting pup see you –
to startle it out of the behavior. Don't expect puppy to distinguish between their toys and the children's. Use
Bitter Apple ® or Breath spray to discourage unwanted chewing. Give him his own toy to chew on and praise. Are
you supervising?
Discerning a ‘Bite’ from a ‘BITE’: Different ‘bites’ are treated differently. The goal is to diminish and then
eliminate teeth from human flesh/clothing. NEVER allow anyone to wrestle, play rough with a dog or encourage it
to bite. It is important that people do not quickly pull their hand away from a biting pup, as this encourages the
pup to bite harder. Children must be taught not to ‘flail’ their hands in a puppy’s face.
Mouthing: Usually not intense (depending on puppy). The puppy puts it mouth on a hand or arm etc with
some pressure but is generally somewhat controlled sometimes even affectionate. Especially with very young
puppies, simply give them an acceptable alternative to chew on. Stick one of their chew toy’s in the puppy’s
mouth.
Play Biting: Usually a more exuberant puppy, even ‘sassy’ who will bite, bark, even growl, and grab at hands,
clothing etc. It is often accompanied by play posture – front end down and rear end up, tail wagging.
Depending on age and severity, use the “Grrrr-OUCH” response. Don’t sound like a victim, sound growly, loud
and threatening. Another technique is to deliberately withdraw from the dog (about 30 seconds) if it persists.
Try to impose the “Settle!” command/position. For the pup that ‘won’t give it up’, a 1-2 minute ‘Time out’ in a
cage is another solution. Spraying some Bitter Apple® Anti Chew spray on children’s hands and clothing may
also deter this type of biting. Do supervise and intercede when children and pups play. They can and may hurt
each other.
Protest Biting: This type of bite is usually seen as a quick reaction from the pup when you try to restrain or
move a puppy, or when you attempt to take something away from it The pup ‘comes back at you’. It is a
‘reactive’ bite. The puppy’s body will be ‘tense’. It may vary in intensity from a snarl, to a quick bump with the
teeth, or all the way to a hard bite. None of these reactions are acceptable and must be stopped immediately.
Be swift and dramatic in reacting to this type of behavior. It is a habit that must end swiftly if the pup is to live
out its life happily in one home. You must have the plan of action mentally rehearsed before the event takes
place.
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Scruff and Cuff is for serious biting: Pups that protest bite should be held by the back of the scruff near the
top of the neck–right behind the ears. The front of the dog should be lifted slightly so the front feet just
come off the floor. The other hand should sneak up under the chin quickly and cuff the bottom of the jaw
with a stiffened palm -hard enough to startle the pup. You should associate a low warning ‘growl’ with this
correction. The scruff hold should not be released until the pup demonstrates submission. The scruff
should be released gradually and deliberately. If a pup comes back after such a correction, it should be
Settled (See settling exercise) until it submits. Then it should be praised and released calmly. If it takes up
where it left off, you should repeat the correction and keep the puppy settled until it gives up the protest.
Drag line please!! Your pup should be ‘living’ on the drag line. For the pup that bites and runs, step on the line
and haul it back in for the scruff and cuff. The punishment must occur within 2 seconds of the bite or the pup
makes no connection. If anything else happens within those two seconds, the pup will connect the correction
with the last thing that it did.
Do not play games that cause the pup to become agitated or aggressive. Tug of war, excessive wrestling games
and teasing promote biting. Avoid any play interaction that causes the pup to become agitated or aggressive.
This "play" can, and often does, mature into serious aggression.
Come: Call the puppy as you show it the food. Touch the food to its nostrils if necessary. Once it arrives, take hold
of puppy's collar, say the word “Come” and pet the pup while it eats its treats. If it does not come, calmly step on
the dragline, pick it up and give a few tugs as you guide the puppy in. In your family room or living room call
puppy back and forth between family members, 10'-15’ apart. (Use touch collar, praise, and treat system.) Keep
these sessions short. Stop before puppy is bored. (6 - 8 "Comes!" are plenty!) Puppy gets the food only when you
call it –not for just running back and forth.
Four on the Floor Hold the pup’s collar and restrain him while you drop 4 treats on the floor in front of him just
out of reach. Hold onto the collar and wait for him to stop lunging for the food. The instant that you feel the pull
go out of the collar, quickly deliver one of the treats. That’s important! This helps build another level of self
control. You must deliver the treat to the pup. Don’t release the pup or allow him to dive for it.
Feeding: Continue the use of the "Come!" command when it’s mealtime for your
puppy. Continue feeding meals in ‘quarters’. This week,
pick the bowl up off the floor to add food and return it to the floor. For the
fourth addition, pick up the bowl when the pup is not quite finished with the
food.
Socialization: It is important for your puppy’s early experiences to be pleasant
and positive. If you have another gentle dog, or a neighbor with such a dog,
letting them play together -with supervision -in a safely enclosed area is a great
way to socialize your puppy and tire it out. Make sure that the other dog is not
too rough on your puppy (or visa versa.) Your puppy will sleep well after such a
session and play/exercise is good for him physically as well as mentally and emotionally.
Once it’s vaccinated, you will want to take your pup to new places. Many pet shops allow dogs in to ‘visit’. Just be
sure your puppy has gone to the bathroom just before you take it into the store. Always have supplies with you to
clean up after your dog.
Barking: Dogs bark for various reasons. It is not realistic to try to totally silence a dog’s barking. It does help to know the
cause!
Territorial barking: Dog alerts at sights or sounds. Limit the puppy’s ‘alert’ barking, especially at people and quiet him with a
stern “Enuff!!” along with a tap on the neck or a sharp tug on the line. Some pups will respond if you drop an empty pop can
near them (containing some dry beans or pea gravel and taped shut over the opening). Keep a few handy near the doors.
Praise and treat SILENCE immediately.
Dominance barking: A dominant dog will bark for attention or bark/growl to control ‘subordinate’ pack members.
This should not be tolerated. A demanding dog is not a good companion. Drop an empty pop can right next to the
dog.
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Frustration barking/whining/howling: This is where your dog vocalizes when left alone or are just plain bored.
Puppies should never be left alone outside without supervision for about the first year. The risks of the pup
developing territorial aggressiveness and just ingesting things that could harm it are too great. When crated, be
sure that your pup has had ample opportunity to eliminate just beforehand. If the pup is persistent, cover the
cage with cardboard then an old sheet. Wait until the pup starts barking or whining again, SAY NOTHING, and rap
sharply on the cage when it begins to bark. (You must rap while the dog is barking.) Repeat as needed. If that fails,
then lift the front edge of the crate 1-2 inches off the floor and drop it. This must be done AS the pup is
complaining without the pup seeing you or hearing you speak.
Where does your dog sleep?
I’d like to talk to you about two
types of aggression, the cause of
which often starts in the home.
These type of aggression are
protective aggression, where the
dog ‘protects’ its owner and goes
after other people who come
near, and possessive aggression,
where the dog claims Alpha status and starts to growl
and snap at its owner.
Over-Protective Aggression
Whenever I have to deal with a case of protective
aggression in a dog, I always ask where the dog sleeps
at night even though I am sure what the reply will be:
“Oh, my dog sleeps in my bed.”
It is then necessary to explain how and why the dog
has started to become protectively aggressive. If a dog
has even the slightest bit of aggression in it, that
aggression will be promoted whenever it is held in the
owner’s arms or held back on a short leash. It will also
worsen if the owner bends down and cuddles the dog.
When the owner is lying down, the dog takes on a
more protective role, just as it would if it was
protecting its puppies, if it had any. This might be seen
when an owner is sitting in the park on a fine summer
day and the dog is very close at hand. A stranger may
pass by, whereupon the dog will leap aggressively to
‘protect’ his owner.
This problem usually starts in the
bedroom then goes further. The
car is usually the next place. Once
again the owner is with the dog in
a very confined space. If any
stranger comes near the car when
it is stationary, the dog gets itself
worked up. Later, the dog reacts in
other places, such as when he or
she is passing people on the sidewalk.
The same thing can develop if a dog sleeps next to its
owner’s bed. It probably won’t show signs of
aggression until the puppy reaches puberty at around
seven months. The answer to this problem once again
is to prevent such behavior from developing in the
first place, for when it does, it usually becomes
progressively worse in a short time. To play it safe,
don’t allow your dog to sleep with you or your
children in the bedroom. By all means have the dog in
some other area of the house such as the kitchen,
family or laundry room and get it used to sleeping
there. Provided this bad habit has not existed for too
long, the chances of reversing it are quite good.
Territorial Aggression
The other type of aggression also manifests after the
dog has been allowed to sleep in some member of the
family’s bed or to be on furniture. This dog is generally
more dominant to begin with and usually demanding
in temperament. It is first noticed when the dog is
asked to vacate the couch or bed and it just ignores
the request. This progresses to muttering, then
gradually to grumbling, then growls, snarls, snaps….
well, you get the picture. Usually I get the call when
the owner has spent the night on the couch because
‘the dog wouldn’t allow me in bed!” In general, there
is a poor relationship between the owner and dog. A
permissive attitude often exists and confrontations
have been avoided, to the point where the dog
assumes a great deal of authority in the household.
This may also manifest in other areas,
such as the food bowl or around toys.
Generally such an arrangement
suffices until someone inadvertently
steps over some invisible line which
the dog has drawn and gets bitten.
Several recent case histories involve
clients whose dogs bit them when
they bent down to pick up a napkin
or bit of food that they had dropped.
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Now some of you reading this might argue that they
have always had their dogs sleeping with them in their
bedrooms, and have never experienced any kind of
aggression. This may well be true. Naturally, the
genetic potential must be there. How will you know
this ahead of time? You won’t! So I advise dog owners
to prevent it before it begins. Preventing a problem
from developing is always easier than trying to correct
one that already exists.
Training your dog is the first important step toward
establishing a healthy relationship with your canine
companion.
Behavior Problems in Dogs by W Campbell
WEEK THREE
If you didn’t order a marrow bone from me, please purchase and bring your own marrow bone to class next
week.
Dragline: Continue to use the Dragline and supervise consistently. Use the line to correct chewing, chasing, etc.
(Be subtle; let pup associate the correction –a sharp snap on the line –to stop the problem behavior.) The line is
also used for the "Come" command when pup doesn't respond. Like toddlers, pups need to be watched closely.
Pups should be crated (confined) for reasonable lengths of time when you can't watch them. “Bad habits are
easier to prevent than to cure!”
Body Handling: Your pup must learn to accept being handled by the collar and on every part of his body. With the
pup in side position (“Settle”) gently rub your hands over his face, ears, neck, shoulder to toes, continue over the
body to the back feet and the tail. Turn puppy over and do the other side. Help your pup relax up to one minute,
while you look at its mouth, ears, groin, etc. Praise cooperation reassuringly. Restrain pup gently but firmly if it
still thrashes. Remember that your pup ‘feels’ what you are telling it through your hands.
Basic Commands: These commands are easy to teach with food lures, as most pups are always hungry. Practice
just before feeding, using a portion of the meal to treat. Be sure to use the correct sequence this week: Get the
behavior first, then say the command, immediately followed by the treat.
1) SIT: Show pup food. Starting at the nostril, move the food very slightly up out of reach. Just after
he sits, praise "Good Sit!" before you give the treat. If he loses interest, start over. If he's jumping
up, you're holding the food too high. Put the food behind your back briefly and try again. After 5
days, say "Sit" before showing the food lure. Praise for sitting, use lure if he doesn't. If all else fails,
push forward behind his rear legs with your other hand to tuck his behind.
2) DOWN: Show your pup food and move it straight down –nose to toes between his front paws.
Hold food in place until he's down. If he loses interest, wiggle it and start over. If he needs a little
help, put gentle intermittent pressure on his back –down and to one side. Praise and treat AS he
completes the down. After 5 days, say "Down" before showing the lure, to see if he understands.
3) STAND: Show and move food out in front of the pup just below nose level and open palm facing
up. Use the verbal command "Stand". After 5 days, say "Stand" before showing the lure, using the
rule of behavior, label and reward.
4) COME: Call pup when it’s 6 – 12 ft. away from you. Say his name first to get his attention. When
he comes, praise "Good Come!" After 5 days, have your dog sit -in front -facing you when it comes.
Use the food to position the sit as above. ‘Come’ means "Sit in front, facing me and look at me!"
Practice calling the pup when he's bored and call him when he's distracted or busy. Call in the
house and outside in the yard or park. ALWAYS on A LINE, just in case he decides to go the other
way! Be in position to step on the line and guide him in. Reel in the line, if needed, while you praise
him. Say "Come" every time you put down the dinner bowl. "Come" should always mean good
things. NEVER CALL A PUP FOR PUNISHMENT! Never call without following thru.
5) EASY: Hold the food between your thumb and fingers so he can’t quite get to it. Ask pup to sit,
delay reward slightly. If he grabs for fingers/food roughly, command “Easy!” as you bump him
suddenly with the backside of your hand in the nose. If he holds back a bit, reward with food while
he is trying to be more careful and is still interested.
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6) YIELDING: Teach puppy “Excuse me” or “Beep” and ‘walk through its ‘space’ when it blocks your
movement or is in the way. Bump or shuffle your way through. This is best practiced as the
opportunity presents itself. This also applies if your pup jumps up on you. Remember leaders
control space.
Identification Options: Losing a dog can be devastating. You can increase your chances for recovering
your dog by having it Micro-Chipped and always wearing a collar with identification tag on it. The tag
should say:
I’M LOST! Your dog’s name and your phone number(s) home and/or cell phone.
When the puppy is through growing, there is also the option of tattooing your pet in the event it gets
lost without or loses its collar; the tattoo is another option for helping you be reunited with your dog.
Check these websites: http://www.nationaldogregistry.com/ http://www.tattoo-a-pet.com/
http://www.akccar.org/products.cfm
What’s Holistic Healthcare & Nutrition?
Holistic healthcare has an entirely different approach and
attitude about symptoms. The conventional medical
approach is to suppress or eliminate symptoms. It assumes
that the body does not know what it is doing and needs
correction. The holistic perspective starts with the premise
that the body does know what it is doing and that it shows
a symptom in order to become well.
The goal of holistic practice is to do things that strengthen
and balance the body. The ideal situation would be to feed
balanced homemade diets as outlined in “Natural Health for
Dogs & Cats”. In this book, Dr. Richard Pitcairn offers many
recipes. It is important that recipes be followed and that all
vitamins and oils are added. An alternative is to feed a high
quality, hormone and antibiotic free, nutrient-dense,
natural food and add fresh supplements.
Adding fresh foods is an important way to strengthen the
body energy. Fresh foods contain valuable enzymes;
building blocks that the body vitally needs to perform
thousands of important daily tasks. They are like traffic cops
that direct chemical and electrical traffic throughout the
body. Enzymes are produced at an optimum level in the
body when there is a consistent, high intake of enzyme-
containing fresh foods. (Enzymes are destroyed when they
reach 120 degrees F- Much lower than the temperature of
any cooked foods.) There is some info on raw feeding on
the articles page on my website www.caredogtraining.com
• Rare or raw meat (esp. organ meat [heart, tripe, kidneys
etc.) preferably organic beef, lamb, poultry or fish. See:
www.animalfood.com/AFSpets.htm
• Slightly scrambled or raw eggs.
• Raw or barely steamed vegetables pureed (esp. sprouts,
carrots, broccoli, spinach, garlic, peas, squash) and non-
citrus fruits such as berries, apple and pear.
• Overcooked Grains in small amounts (esp. brown rice,
oatmeal, millet, and whole barley.) Use extra water and
cook thoroughly- dogs cannot digest uncooked grains)
Some things that weaken the immune system are
preservatives, sugars and dyes in commercial dog food.
Look for dog food that is primarily meat and has no food
colorings, sugar sources, or preservatives.
Touch Lack of touch or exercise can weaken the immune
system. Make sure your dogs (and you!) get regular
exercise. Therapeutic massage can actually increase the
body energy and improve imbalance.
If there is of yelling and anger or doubt or despair in a
household, it can weaken the energy (stress the immune
system) and affect the level of health.
One way of limiting emotional stress is giving your dog a
sense of purpose in life. Create some basic rules to live by
and learn how to communicate with your dog. Balanced
obedience training is a wonderful vehicle for teaching you
how to have a healthy emotional relationship with your
dog.
Vaccines are a stress to the immune system and the body
energy. The body believes it acquired the disease thru the
vaccine and then builds immunity to it. Some vaccines
contain Thimerisol®, a mercury based adjuvant. If you
vaccinate, try to get vaccines one at a time when possible
(esp. rabies and parvo virus). Wait 2 weeks between each
vaccine. After the first year, it is generally better to get the
3 yr. rabies vaccine. New research indicates that all vaccines
give immunity for at least 3 years. Dogs can be titered to
check immunity. Some people use immune-supportive
holistic protocols instead of re-vaccinating their dogs. Do
wellness check-ups at least annually.
Other modalities Acupuncture, homeopathy and
chiropractic are vital ways of maintaining or restoring
health without suppressing the body’s energy. These
modalities generally improve energy without suppressing or
over-stimulating the body systems. Surgery and drug
intervention should be a well thought out last resort.
There are homeopathic and herbal remedies that are used
for immune system stimulation or to handle some
symptoms of cancer. A doctor of homeopathy must make
these selections. If your vet is not familiar with homeopathy
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have him/her contact the American Holistic Veterinary
Medical Association.
Reference:www.dogfoodanalysis.com
Acidophilus Anyone Many knowledgeable people have no idea what
acidophilus (pronounced Asi-DOF-uh-lis) can do for their
dogs as well as for themselves. It protects the intestines,
eliminates bad breath, improves complexions, and
reverses intestinal damage caused by antibiotics.
Lactobacillus acidophilus, is found
yogurt. It is also available thru
health food stores. Vitamin K and
all the B vitamins are synthesized
by acidophilus If acidophilus is
taken daily, the entire bacterial
population of the intestine, which
makes up 80 % of the stools)
become organisms which destroy
the gas-forming, disease and
odor-producing kinds of bacteria.
Friendly Bacteria
Lactose-found in milk products;
complex carbohydrates, pectin,
Vitamin C and roughage encourage additional growth of
friendly intestinal bacteria. Antibiotics are often
prescribed for acne and other skin problems, but
acidophilus is safer and highly effective against skin
conditions. Check with your doctor or dermatologist in
regard to a twice-daily program of acidophilus culture.
Most individuals feel stress, anxiety, and are prone to all
sorts of ailments due to nutritional imbalance. But I am
also convinced that even the best diet will not benefit an
individual if his intestinal tract is deficient in friendly
bacteria. I have observed over 500 cases where
individuals with bad skin, bad breath, excessive body
odor, constipation, vitamin B-complex deficiencies,
bloating, gas, ulcers, fatigue, red eyes and a host of other
chronic disorders, have accomplished seeming miracles
by simply adding acidophilus culture to their daily diets.
This is no less true for our dogs!
The exterior of the body reflects the condition of the
intestinal tract. Lack-luster eyes, poor skin, dull hair,
excessive wrinkles, etc. are all signs that one’s intestinal
flora is begging for the help of friendly bacteria. Once
internal putrefaction is corrected, the exterior of the
body glows with good health.
Unfriendly Bacteria
It is putrefaction, (the decomposing of organic matter by
unfriendly bacteria) in the intestines, which causes bad
breath and gas. This odor is totally resistant to
mouthwash or breath spray. An intensive course of
acidophilus usually reverses this problem.
Dr. James Carmeli, Ph.D., formerly a pharmacologist with
a drug company, stresses that “faulty elimination can
best be relieved through the faithful ingestion of
acidophilus culture.” Dr. Carmeli adds:
“The middle-aged to elderly should take acidophilus in a
concentrated form due to decreasing activity and
tendency to develop semi-chronic constipation.
Diverticulitis (stagnant food and fecal matter in the colon
and intestines) can be relieved by the regular use of
acidophilus culture. Not only the middle-aged or elderly
can benefit from acidophilus. Young children (and
puppies) who are given acidophilus maintain a higher
degree of health throughout puppyhood and for the rest
of their lives. Acidophilus is one of the best health
insurance policies anyone can invest in.”
Anyone at any age will find acidophilus culture to be a
foundation for building better health. When the
intestinal flora is abundant, vitamins, minerals, food
supplements and nutrition will be working in an optimal
environment to guarantee better health.
Acidophilus is available in Plain (unflavored, nothing
added) live-cultured YOGURT. One teaspoon to ¼ C daily
according to the size of your dog, or through a health
food store in powdered or capsule form.
For high quality Dog foods I proudly
recommend, go to www.caredogtraining.com
Look in the Navigation panel and click on the
Flint River Dog Food Link.
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Curing the Over-dependant Dog
The People Connection
How does a dog become over-dependent, how
do we avoid nurturing the problem and how do
we socialize such a dog? Separation anxiety has
become an increasingly common problem
because many caretakers are required to be away
from home for prolonged periods of time. Two
basic histories dominate in this problem.
The dog has had an intensive relationship
during the critical socialization period, (3-14 wks.).
It usually continued into the juvenile period. In
family situations this may develop into the “Beta
dog syndrome”, where the dog is even hostile to
other family members and/or outsiders. In other
cases the dog may respond mildly, even super-
submissively (but not affectionately) to other
people, while accepting direction and handling
only from ‘its’ person.
The other history involves a dog, which formed
its single-person relationship later but was usually
socially deprived of meaningful human contacts.
These include many dogs from puppy mills, pet
shops, pounds etc., some of which have been
rejected, dumped or lost.
All dogs with these backgrounds don’t
necessarily become hooked on only one person.
The deciding factor in the equation is the owner.
For these people, the dog is extremely important
for one of several reasons.
For example, a recent widow brought a 4 yr.
old intact male German Shepherd for help with
increasing over-protectiveness and aggressive
behavior with visiting family and friends. When
her husband was alive, the dog was super friendly
with everyone, even strangers.
Another example: A breeder raised her prize
bitch, applying her usual socialization methods,
but she did all the actual training herself. The
bitch carried the foundation of her hopes for her
line. But when it came for others to handle the
dog, it panicked hysterically.
A third, more typical example involves owners
who-because of naiveté or a problem in
expressing their own affections-stroke their dogs in
ways which stimulate them sexually. Not all these
dogs display open sexual responses to such
stimulation. In fact, most of them merely appear
frustrated, start whining and nudge continually for
more of that ‘wonderful stuff’-i.e. non-stop petting.
Many of these dogs become downright vicious
toward anyone who interferes with their person.
A Common Element
We must discuss the force that is at work in
these situations. “Concentration of emotion and
mental energy on an idea, person (other animal) or
experience” is psychology’s definition of cathexis.
Dogs are very tuned in to human emotion. When it
becomes excessive, sensitive dogs tend to return it
with increased intensity. Enough of this, especially
at critical ages or in critical situations for the dog,
creates an obsessive emotional attachment to a
person. It has been seen as the most common factor
in canine over-dependency. Understand that some
degree of emotional cathexis is absolutely necessary
for a healthy human/dog relationship. The problem
lies is excessive emotional overloading of the dog by
its human.
Avoiding over-dependency
O-D is behind much problem behavior-from
destructiveness when left alone (social isolation
anxiety) to outright over-protective viciousness in
the presence of its ‘person’. To fix it we must
recognize that it generally involves dogs that are
emotionally immature. They have not been allowed
enough social exposure as they were growing up or
their owners have inadvertently maintained their
immaturity by their day-to-day interactions with the
dog. Another cause may be some strong fear-
producing experience that applied the brakes to
emotional maturation. The following guidelines can
minimize the chances of raising an over-dependent
dog.
1. Avoid getting any puppy that has been socially
deprived between 5-16 wks. of age.
Even with a well-socialized puppy, be sure to
continue to broaden its socialization.
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2. Avoid excessive emotional responses
(Anger, fear, commiseration, worry etc.) during
impressionable experiences. Examples:
When the dog is at the vet (before, during and
after)
When you are leaving the dog
Overly joyous & emotional greetings after a period
of isolation when you return
When your dog meets strangers
When taking car rides
When other dogs approach
3. Behave in a way that sets an ‘emotional
example’ for your dog to follow. Admittedly, it’s
not easy to skip happily around the kitchen when
you’ve just accidentally stepped on its paw, or to
sing a cheerful tune through a thunderstorm, but
it will set the dog’s response to difficult situations
and help it to adapt to the events of life.
4. Have everyone that lives with the pup
practice simple obedience commands a few
minutes a day. Have the pup respond to a
command for its praise and petting, especially
when it seeks affection. (You know, the nudge
under the elbow trick.) Be sure to release the pup
from the command after it is praised.
5. Play ball with the puppy daily. Toss the ball.
If the pup won’t give it up, have a few handy and
toss another rather than pry the first one out of
its jaws.
6. Avoid ‘Tug of War’ and other practices,
which tend to teach the dog to express
aggressive-emotional behavior. We don’t want it
to think it has the right to contest people with its
mouth.
7. Family members old enough to carry them
out should practice formal obedience training
exercises. This helps to avoid the ‘Beta-dog
syndrome’.
This program of conditioned broad
socialization, avoidance of over-emotionality,
earning praise for stable behaviors, daily play
activity and formal training, can succeed even
with a socially deprived pup obtained after 14
weeks. Progress is slower and often difficult for an
older dog with a longstanding problem. It takes a
great deal of patience and persistence.
Such a wide range of problems springs from
over-dependency, we don’t have room here to
address each one. Actual plans to deal with such
problems as over-protectiveness and
destructiveness are addressed in the class and also
found in the books cited later.
Whatever the behavior problem, one-person dog
owners must do some soul-searching regarding their
feelings about their dog. Has the problem got them
thinking about getting rid of the dog? If so:
They must get rid of the thought or a solution
will be impossible. Dogs are sensitive to the feelings
of being unwanted. The basis for a solution is
commitment.
The owner (particularly the one-person owner)
must examine why they got the dog. What did they
want the dog to give them emotionally?
How did they picture the dog’s adult behavior when
they got it?
How is the dog measuring up to those expectations?
The answer is generally 'pretty poorly". Then the
next question must be WHY?
The answer to these lies in the nature of each
person’s past and present relationship with the type
of dog involved. Has the owner set behavioral or
emotional goals that are unrealistic for his dog?
(Most of us do.) Does the owner understand the
basic social needs of the dog? (Most of us don’t.)
The dog owner needs to get educated in order to
select and carry out a program of re-socialization
and problem correction. A few days spent reading
the Fuller book provides an excellent foundation.
After that, realistic behavioral objectives can be set,
the emotionally immature dog can be helped to
grow up, and a specific, corrective behavior program
can be started.
The Basics
Since the basis for problems arising from over-
dependency is an arrest in the maturation process,
it follows that re-socializing the dog had best start
where this process left off. (See points 1-7 under
avoiding over-dependency). Then, for specific
PPUUPPPPYY CCLLAASSSS HHOOMMEEWWOORRKK
M.M. ©2000 KPT HW Updated 4/28/13 18
problem-corrections involving chewing, over-
protectiveness, etc., ask your instructor for
information.
It is satisfying to see a nasty, over-protective
two year old dog (emotional age of three months)
finally start to grow up, enter its juvenile stage;
begin to relax as it responds to its owner’s
leadership. It’s good to see such a dog learn to
play cooperatively, and, take the cues for its
emotional attitudes and behavior about other
people from its owner rather than from its former
self-centered perspective. It can take six months
or longer with dogs older than nine months, but
owners who succeed say it is one of life’s most
rewarding experiences.
Notes:
19
WEEK FOUR
READ Homework/Handouts PRACTICE! SUPERVISE! EXERCISE! Review the basic commands: Come, Sit,
Down and Stand.
Random reinforcement:
Use your food treats only every third or fourth command. Be a slot machine, not a vending machine☺!
Only Food Reward your pup’s BEST efforts but continue to praise every effort.
Supervised Submission Exercises for Children: Under direct adult supervision, have your older children
take turns placing (or ‘helping hold’) the puppy on its side and practice body handling. Be sure the pup isn’t
being twisted in two directions! Do not tolerate any aggression from the pup toward the children. The
ADULT should make any corrections needed. Try to make this as non-threatening as possible for both the
pup and the children. With young children, you should be the one to place the pup and let the children ‘pet’
the puppy gently while you control the pup.
Body Handling: Teach the pup to tolerate a little rough handling (it’s going to happen, but don’t allow children to
deliberately mistreat the dog -- dogs have pain receptors, too!) Hold the scruff occasionally, pet a little hard, pull ears
and tail, GENTLY, bump into him while he’s eating, etc. Talk happily to the dog as you do this to reassure him that he’s
OK. Scruff and cuff the pup that snaps or growls threateningly.
Food Handling: Continue to work on bite inhibition, correcting any protest bites with a scruff and chin cuff
and then give the pup a command, such as ‘Sit’ that can earn the pup some praise. Teach your pup to
distinguish between chewables, bones, toys and flesh! Use the bone to practice give and take. Practice give
and take of marrowbones, toys, etc. Handle pup briefly while he is chewing, then walk away. Come back ½
minute later and ask pup to “Give it”. Trade the bone for a treat. Do not tolerate any growling or snapping.
Pup should be on the dragline. Scruff or settle as needed. Practice picking up his food bowl while he is
eating and add food to the bowl before putting it back down. Be sure to praise your pup for acceptable
behavior.
“READY?”Attention/Focus Training: Teach your pup to give you eye contact. Mark the moment of eye
contact by saying “YES”. Use food, a toy or soothing sounds to hold his attention and keep him in a sit
position until you give your release command (e.g. “Free” or “All Done”). Keep the reward close to your
chin and dole out a steadily slowing supply of crumbs. Remember that praise means “Good job, keep doing
what you’re doing”. The pup must wait for your release word before being allowed to move or change
positions. The pup should hold for 5-10 seconds by next week.
Puppy Stay: Tether your dog's leash to a fence/tree/doorknob etc tell it to sit, and walk away to retrieve a
treat from a dish placed about 6-8 ft. out of reach of the pup. The pup will probably get up, but it can't go
anywhere. Ignore the fact that the pup got up and just tell it to "Sit' again before delivering the reward.
First Week: By the second or third repetition, the pup will often sit as soon as it sees you take the treat out
of the dish. The pup should only be given the treat while it IS still sitting. By the 4th or 5th rep, he/she
should stay sitting while you walk to the dish, pick up the treat and walk back. Label "Good Stay!" while the
dog is still sitting and just before delivering the treat. If the pup stands up or lays down, stop moving toward
it and remind it to sit. Move toward the pup and treat it only when it is sitting. Gradually move the dish
further away so the pup has to wait a bit longer for you to walk back.
What are your dog’s problems?
“What we call problem behaviors are seldom THE DISEASE. They are more often merely the symptoms of
the real disease. Dealing with symptoms will only cure the symptom. It leaves the disease, most times,
unaffected. The disease will manifest itself in other symptoms. Curing the symptoms that keep cropping up
is a slippery slope that ends, at worst, in euthanasia, at best, in relegated to the back yard. Let me suggest
the four most common diseases: Unled, Untrained, Unsocialized and Unoccupied. Correct these and the
symptoms disappear.
20
WEEK FIVE
Read homework & Review: Basic Commands: Sit, Stand,
Come, Down, Stay. Start to phase out the food. Pups should
obey several commands before receiving a treat. By mid-
week, give commands without the food in your hand. Start
doing the positions in random order. (Down from stand, sit
from down, stand from sit etc.) Don’t repeat commands
meaninglessly! If you have to repeat, help show your pup
what to do at the same time with the hand signal. Keep
working on Body Handling; Food Handling; Calling the pup
on lines -indoors and outdoors; Grooming; “Easy” and Bite
Inhibition. Be sure your pup is ‘living on a dragline’ under
supervision at all times or is confined safely.
READY? Sit with Attention: Extend the time of the eye
contact gradually to 10+ seconds while you stand on the
Dragline. Stay close to your puppy. Remember to focus your
puppy’s attention on eye to eye contact. Move the food
between your chin and the pup’s nose. Give the pup a very
small bite occasionally to hold its interest. Don’t let the pup
move until you have released him. Put food in both hands,
move one away from your face, wait until the pup looks
back in your eyes, Mark it “YES!” and treat from the hand by
your face. Try to extend his attention (eye contact) to 15
seconds.
Expanding His Obedience: Supervise children 8+ years (or volunteer neighbors) as they call the pup and ask
him to come, sit, stand, down, etc. Show them how to do the signals. As you put your pup into the side
position, have family members participate in gently touching him while he’s down, to build trust, respect
and proper pack order. (Pup not children, should be at the bottom of the pack!) Practice grooming and
massage your dog daily.
Puppy Stay: If the puppy is holding the Sit-Stay pretty consistently as you come and go, a dish is now held
10 ft. away from the puppy. If the pup gets up from the sit as you approach, stop and step back. Hold the
food at your waist, watch the pup and wait for it to sit. Praise "Good Sit" as you once again approach. The
pup only gets the food if the sit is very steady and looks at you for permission, but don’t make it wait too
long.
Building Confidence: Encourage and gently guide your pup through each new experience until he gains
confidence from your praise. Praise enthusiastically when he makes each new breakthrough -- even
climbing stairs is an obstacle for some small puppies!
WAIT at exits: You’ve taught your pup to wait politely in its cage when you open the door. A very important
safety command for your pup to master is to wait when you open a house door-whether the front, back, or
side door; garage, gate or car door. Hold your pup’s dragline or leash and tell it to wait before you open the
door. Keep the leash a little slack as you open the door, but be ready. If the pup stays in place, praise it very
quietly. If it tries to leave, snap the line back enough to make him want to stay. Repeat opening and closing
the door. Praise the pup quietly while it is sitting. Pause 5-6 seconds before you release it. Practice through
the week on different doors, gates etc. Remember to praise or correct consistently. Get everyone in the
habit of practicing “Wait” every time your puppy goes out an exit.
“Leave it!”
Canine Cognition is a fascinating field of
study. Their powers of associative reasoning
and even deductive reasoning are currently a
serious field of study.
21
Puppies can pick up things in and out of the house that can hurt them. We’ll teach your pup to turn away
from something dangerous or unwanted by using a series of plates. You will need 5-6 small plastic plates
spaced 8 ft. apart in a row, small treats, and your 4-6 ft leash.
Procedure: First ‘charge’ the plates
The closest plate is 6-8 ft away from the puppy. Let the pup watch as you or someone else places a treat on
each plate. You may have to hold the pup back until you’re ready, but this builds necessary anticipation.
Then take the pup on the leash from plate to plate and allow it to eat the treats. (Shhh, the ‘Yes’ marker is
only verbal communication as he eats each treat) Some pups may have to be encouraged to move forward.
Just point or tap on each treat-loaded plate as you move the pup from one to the next. Use extra tempting
treats if you have to.
Do not start the next step until the pup is consistently and enthusiastically going from plate to plate. Load
all the plates with treats. Now we will occasionally call them away from its approach to a plate with the
“Leave it” command. The leash handling is important. The leash is anchored in the right hand along with a
treat. The leash is held short (at about 2 ft.) but not tight in the left hand.
The pup will only be called off when it is really focused on going to a plate. The handler must think
ahead of the puppy and, as it starts to drive to the plate, the “Leave it” command is given at the
same time that the handler pulls the pup in a half circle to the right and then takes one step back.
Bring the pups head around to the right hand where it is met with the treat in the right hand.
Eventually we want the pup to look at the handler, not the food, so after the pup is turned to face
the handler, bring the food up to the face (as is done in the Reverse & Call). Once the pup has
turned and looked at the handler, it is marked with “yes” and the treat is delivered with “Good
Leave it”.
Allow the pup to finish going through and eating off of all the other plates. Reload the plates. If the dog is
still enthusiastic, let him eat off of one or two more plates then call the pup off a different plate. Randomly
pick plates to do the ‘leave it’. Be sure that there is more retrieving than “Leave it’s”. Try to emphasize to
your student to keep it in balance. With a puppy less is more, so do not do more than 4 call offs in a single
session. End on a good one.
Eventually this is practiced on walks with ‘naturally occurring’ distractions that pups like to pick up, as well
as around the house. These should initially be set up so the pupil can control the outcome. Until the
pup/dog is consistent in turning back to the handler, it must be practiced on a leash.
Nutrition review:
Good quality food; a continuous supply of fresh water (until 2 hours before bedtime); and a regular feeding
schedule make housebreaking much easier. Fresh real food is best and there is much evidence that high in
grain dry kibble may contribute to food allergies, degenerative diseases, digestive disorders and to frequent
bloating. Balancing a dog’s diet can be difficult, so most people rely on a meat-based quality, dry kibble that
has moderate quantity, high quality protein (22-25%) and is preserved only with natural antioxidants
(vitamins C & E and some herbs). An easily digestible food generally recommends that you feed LESS. The
first ingredient on the list should be meat i.e. ‘beef’, ‘chicken’ or ‘lamb’. Most dry dog foods are loaded with
grain. Grain proteins are very difficult for dogs to digest, especially CORN. It is getting easier to find grain
free kibbles.
Food preservatives and food dyes have the same detrimental effects on dogs as they do on children –
inducing hyperactivity and aggression. Canned food usually contains too much salt, and most semi-moist
foods contain large amounts of sugar, chemical preservatives, and dyes. Dry kibble should be stored in a
non-plastic container in a cool, dry place and should be frequently checked for rancid or musty smells. A
serious problem with all cooked foods –kibbled or canned –is that there are no enzymes, and some
essential amino acids are destroyed. Essential fatty acids, so important for good skin, coat and immune
system function are altered when cooked. Trans-fatty acids, known cancer-forming agents, form during
Plate
22
high heat processing.
Many people are turning to raw food diets. Some healthy inclusions in your dog’s diet include pureed
fresh/raw fruits and vegetables (containing Vitamins, minerals, enzymes, phyto-nutrients and fiber); yogurt
(B vitamins, and probiotics); eggs(sulfur rich amino acids) and olive oil (NOT corn oil-many dogs are allergic
to corn). Any changes should be made over a period of at least one week, gradually mixing a bit more new
food with the old each day.
Growing Up Unaggressive by Carol Benjamin
If you think, as I do, that it’s not appropriate for a
dog to bite, run away when called or growl
whenever he sees another male, you may
wonder if it’s possible to raise a confident male.
This would be one who’s not aggressive, who
doesn’t challenge you, who obeys a few simple
commands and who (what a concept!) is a
pleasure to live with.
Choose Wisely
Most important in
raising a non-
aggressive dog is
the choice of his
parents. Their
level of
aggression, or dominance, is not to be taken
lightly. No matter how well you socialize and
raise your dog, if he is genetically too aggressive,
blood will tell. Once you find the right parents,
choose a dog from the center of the litter, neither
the boldest nor the least confident. These middle
dogs are usually the easiest to train. If raised
properly, they are the least likely to challenge you
or to bite defensively. This is not to say that, if
you are more experienced, you cannot select the
most dominant pup in a litter. But when you do,
he must be trained and handled accordingly. Any
signs of aggression must be monitored and
controlled. Don’t worry: unlike the shy or fearful
dog that may be touchy or brittle, the confident
dog is elastic. He does not fall apart when you
have to tell him NO, nor will training and
imposing rules dampen his spirit.
Social Plans
Plan to socialize your puppy well. This means
more than occasionally inviting a child in to play
with your pup. A good program of socialization
means lots and lots of experience, most of it
positive and away from the home or kennel. This
way, your puppy will not only become
comfortable with other dogs and with humans of
all types, he will learn to overcome the stress of
change, even to become comfortable with it. This
bodes well for the show dog, the stud dog and
the pet dog.
When you do some very basic training with your
dog you are teaching him an appropriate
hierarchy—something he understands naturally.
You are telling him you are on top of the pyramid,
not he. This means that, when you take him
places, your presence will make him feel relaxed
rather than edgy. Underneath the basic
commands a trust is built, a confidence that you,
as your dog’s leader, will never take him into
harm’s way.
Feel the Tension
How tense or relaxed your dog is should be your
guide in judging whether or not he will be prone
to aggression in any given situation. Tension is
the most accurate precursor to an aggressive
display. If you know your dog well, you’ll easily be
able to both see and feel when his level of
tension rises because of the presence of another
male, because you are handling or brushing him
in a way that bothers him, or because there is a
bitch in season nearby.
Tension manifests itself in stiffening of the body,
and a kind of stillness, including a lack of
movement in the eyes. The more quickly you can
recognize this, the faster you can do something
to offset it. If your dog gets tense from handling,
nail cutting, grooming or even a bath, you’ll need
to desensitize him to these
activities. You might, for example,
cut one or two nails at a time. No
law says you have to do all his nails
the same day. Build his ability to
be handled by working for brief
periods and using lots of warm praise for his
“bravery.”
23
Suppose your dog’s tension builds in obedience
class, from corrections, from control or from the
presence of other dogs. Work him for five or 10
minutes and then take him away from the group,
out of doors if the class is an indoor one. Move
him quickly, do some playful, cheerful heeling
and recalls. Then take him back to class and work
with him another 10 or 12 minutes. When he gets
tense, do not go for control. Instead, remove him
and move him. The movement and the
separation from the other dogs will alleviate his
tension. As you work this way, you will increase
his ability to handle situations that now make him
uptight. Among males, there is no way to make
everyone buddies. Even if your male is friendly
with others, they will not all accept him with
equanimity.
My dog loves to play with other males. Yet when I
take him to the dog run, I watch carefully so that,
should things get strained, I can remove him
before there’s any hostility. Aggressive behavior
toward him could not only injure him, it could
teach him to relate aggressively.
The more positive
experiences your
male has with
other dogs, the less
likely he is to view
them combatively.
Should a pleasant
one-on-one
encounter turn
tense, the more
aggressive dog should always be removed first.
Removing the less or non-aggressive dog first
makes the more aggressive dog even bolder, as
he sees his foe retreat. Unfortunately, the person
with the aggressive dog won’t always have the
sense to remove their dog first. In these cases,
simply take your dog out of harms way as quickly
as possible.
When leashed dogs meet, as here in the city or at
a dog show, the leash creates both confidence
and tension. To minimize tension, leashes should
be held loosely. Like the leash, the fence in a
kennel run can create a false confidence that can
lead to aggression. The young male growing up in
a kennel feels safe and emboldened because of
the fence.
Fence fighting creates the bad habit of aggression
toward others and an overblown view of one’s
prowess. When possible, eliminate fence fighting
by alternating males and females in kennel runs
or blocking vision with a tarp.
What about the stud dog, the quintessential
cocky male? Need he, once he’s had his first
stunning brush with biology, be aggressive
toward other males? Some stud dogs become
touchy, tense and hypersensitive to irritation
from other males only in the presence of a bitch
in season. Others become permanently
combative with other males and need to be
monitored carefully. Some mellow few stay just
as friendly as when they were innocent, happy to
mate when the opportunity arises and to play
with males and females alike between
assignments. In all cases, avoid inflammatory
situations such as rivalry over a bitch or even a
bone.
If your expectation is that your males will be
aggressive toward other males, they probably will
be. If, on the other hand, you give your males
leadership, training and lots of chances to play
with other gentle males, your dogs need not
grow up aggressive toward anyone
.
24
When Pets & Children Mix
Amber is a 6 year old Golden Retriever. She is
owned by the Grants who have two children” Jason,
16 months and Jennifer, one month old. Amber was
always especially good with the children, but
recently she had begun to growl at Jason. Amber
never growls at Jennifer. Nor did she growl at Jason
when he was an infant. The Grants called for help
because they were concerned that Amber might
hurt Jason, or ‘turn’ on Jennifer. They wanted to
know how to help Jason and Amber to be better
friends. This situation is not uncommon in families
with small children. Although care should be taken
to introduce your dog to a new baby slowly and
under supervision, most dogs readily accept infants.
When problems arise, they usually do so when that
infant begins to crawl and then walk.
There are several reasons why a dog may start to
growl, snap at or bite a small child in the family. In
Amber’s case, the aggression was displayed out of
fear. Jason, like most young boys, is extremely
active and does not know his own strength. When
Jason began to crawl, he enjoyed chasing Amber
and pulling on her tail. When he started to stand
and walk, he often used Amber for support if she
was nearby. A few times Mrs. Grant heard Amber
yelp. After a while, Amber began to avoid Jason. But
when Jason started to run, Amber could not always
get out of his way fast enough and began to growl
at him.
Many parents believe dogs should tolerate just
about anything from a young child, but dogs feel
pain as much as we do. Careful supervision of
young children and pets cannot b
overemphasized and helps to protect both
parties.
Peaceful Coexistence
To prevent fear-induced aggression problems,
teach your child to pet gently with an open
hand. Try to make him understand that the
dog is not a toy, but a living thing that feels. I
recommend owners give their dog a place of their
own, either the corner of a room or a crate. This
place should be off –limits to the child when the
dog is resting or sleeping there. It is best to teach a
dog to go to his place at a young age, before the
children are born, if possible.
Another reason dogs may show signs of aggression
to toddlers and young children is related to
dominance. Dogs are social animals that live in
packs. Within a dog pack, a stable pecking order, or
dominance hierarchy sets up. This hierarchy is
maintained by threat signals, such as growling,
snarling and snapping. Overt fighting where the
dogs get hurt rarely occurs.
When we take dogs into our families, they relate to
us as pack members and find a place in the
human/dog dominance hierarchy. In most families
the people are clearly dominant over the dog and
there are no problems. In some families with small
children, however, the dog views the child as a
subordinate and relates to the child as if it were a
puppy. In these cases, the dog may growl if the child
approaches the dog’s food dish, disturbs the dog
while sleeping or attempts to climb on a parent’s
lap. Sometimes the dog will growl at the child if
hugged too hard or directly stared at. In most cases,
as the child grows up, the dog begins to view the
child as dominant and the growling becomes less
frequent. But until then, it is very important to
supervise the child/dog interactions. If you cannot
supervise - separate. Child or pet gates are
wonderful inventions. Teach your child not to go
near a dog while it’s eating or resting. Teach your
dog to accept your presence around its food bowl.
Some dogs attempt to assume a dominant position
over several, or in some cases, all family members.
The dog may be very dangerous to keep with
children. In any case, aggression to young children
in the family is potentially a very serious problem. If
you are experiencing this problem, seek advice
from a qualified animal trainer.
One of the most common complaints about pets
and children concerns playful aggression. Your
dog jumps on children, bites and chews on their
arms and legs, and chases them around the
house or yard. This play aggression is
often accompanied by growling and
barking but sounds different from
serious barking (as in what you hear
when the mailman comes.) Dogs that
are playing often assume a ‘bowing’ posture (front
end down and tail end up) and rarely break the skin.
My best advice is to teach your children to ignore
the dog when it plays too rough. They should fold
their arms, close their eyes and remain perfectly
still until the dog looses interest. Your dog can be
25
taught alternative, acceptable forms of play like
fetch and Frisbee.
Even if you don’t have children at home, it is
desirable to be able to trust your pet around
children. Nieces, grandchildren and even the
paperboy should feel comfortable. When your pet is
young, it is extremely important that you make an
effort to introduce him to children of all ages.
Children move differently from adults, are louder
and more active and may seem threatening to a
pet. Have the children gently pet your dog and feed
it treats. If your pet is older, you can still expose him
to children, but do so gradually. All interactions
between your dog and children should be well
supervised. You should be able to read your dogs
stress signals if it is becoming frightened or
overwhelmed and you need to referee the behavior
of children and the dog when play starts to become
too rough. If you are not sure how to correct the
situation, remove the dog from the children.
Experts agree that most of the bites that children
receive each year, could have been prevented
through education of your children and supervision.
Obedience training your dog will give it a clearer
idea of what you expect of it. Instilling in children a
sense of respect for animals as animals, rather than
toys or little people, is of utmost importance.
To Neuter or Not?A lot is said about neutering,
most of it nonsense. Different
dogs react in different ways,
but here’s what neutering
usually does and doesn’t do. It
helps your dog live longer;
lessens the probability of
certain physical ailments (some
as serious as cancer); reduces
overall medical costs; influences some types of
aggression. It increases the owner’s importance to
the dog by reducing the significance of outside
sexual stimuli; stabilizes behavior and biochemistry
by eliminating hormonal swings; and influences
hormonally related behaviors like digging, escaping,
fence jumping, breeding, fighting, false pregnancies,
endometriosis; mounting or humping, and urine
marking. These are major points; behavior that is
biochemically motivated is very resistant to change.
Training, punishment, even behavioral therapy may
not affect them to a satisfactory degree. Imagine
willing or training yourself out of going through
puberty. What neutering does not do is also
important. Ordinarily, it does not cause major
personality changes; make dogs less protective or
automatically cause obesity. Neutered or not,
overfed and under-exercised dogs get fat.
There’s a big difference between aggression and
protection. Aggression is active, offensive and
negative. Protection is passive, defensive and
beneficial. Neutering effects aggression, not
protection. If a dog needed hormones to defend
itself, any bitch would let you beat her with a stick.
Want to try that with my neutered female? It’ll earn
you a new nickname, Lefty.
In some cases neutering is not only beneficial but
required. Undescended testicles retained in the
abdomen are prone to cancer, so neuter males with
undescended testicles. If your female has
brucellosis, pyometra, irregular cycles or other
reproductive problems, spaying may be clinically
indicated.
Some people object because neutering is
‘unnatural’ without being able to define ‘natural’
for dogs. When you change circumstances (by
domestication) you also change ‘natural’. Natural
for a wolf is not the same as for a pet Beagle. You
wouldn’t neuter a dog and release it into the wild. It
wouldn’t last long and its death would be rough. It’s
just as ‘unnatural’ to bring a dog into your home
and expect it to live in a domestic environment
intact, biochemically prepared to kill food, mate,
and fight predators. You’re going to ‘punish’ it for
what its hormones make it do. Is that fun and
‘natural’?
Others say neutering is unnecessary because their
dog is never loose outdoors. We usually call such
dogs ‘parents’. There is little chance anyone can
watch a determined dog so closely that it cannot
breed-and biochemistry provides a lot of incentive
and determination. Dogs have been known to eat
through doors and breed through fences.
“But my dog is so brilliant and beautiful; I owe it to
the world to breed it!” Sound familiar? Even if your
dog is a sweet, gorgeous genius, its offspring may
not be. Neutering is beneficial, so if your dog is that
great, do what’s best for it. A dog should be more
26
important than ego, pups or the dollars that the
naïve think they may bring.
Many people don’t know that a litter can have more
than one sire. You may breed your female to a
chosen male and two days later the neighborhood
mix, Rover can also accommodate her. When the
litter is born, you can’t understand why half are
purebred and half are mutts. The responsible
breeder-fancier spends years studying their breed
and has many medical tests run to verify healthy
bone structure, eye health, system blood work ups
etc. and knows their dogs genetic pedigrees for
many generations. They are willing to clean up after
1 to 16 puppies several times every day for seven or
more weeks. They carefully screen potential homes
to be sure the people are right for each puppy. They
are knowledgeable about their breed and are
willing to mentor their puppy buyers and remain a
Mentor to them. They are willing to take back
puppies that they have placed in homes even when
those puppies are now adults and the owners have
divorces or died or couldn’t keep the dog for
whatever reason etc. You only need visit the local
shelter to see how many pups wind up there- even
purebreds.
Pups should be neutered after they’ve reached
most of their growth. Potential downsides are
surgical risk, anesthetic reaction and occasional loss
of female bladder tone (usually easily remedied).
These are minimal given today’s veterinary
competence and minor compared to a dog dying at
a shelter or being hit by a car after escaping your
yard due to hormonal urgings.
Early neutering helps address the abandoned,
surrendered dog overpopulation in this country.
Millions of dogs must be destroyed annually due to
lack of homes. Every intact dog represents a
potential breeding machine. Why risk having to kill
more dogs when neutering is better for your dog in
the first place? Your dog relies on you to provide for
its welfare. Get the facts. Spay or neuter.
Grooming
Grooming: Brush and/or comb your dog twice weekly. Be gentle. Pup may be laid on his side for this. Be
patient and persistent. Try to help him enjoy grooming with soothing praise, short sessions and an
occasional treat during good behavior. Check his ears and toenails once a week. Get in the habit of doing
a weekly skin health check for wounds, lumps and parasites.
Nail Clipping: Unclipped toenails grow longer and longer unless your dog wears them down with constant
activity on rough terrain. Since many dogs are housedogs there is no natural wearing so the nails will
continue to grow. As this happens, they will tend to curve down toward the ground. This forces the front
of the foot up and the back down; forcing the dog to walk more and more on its "heels". This causes the
Achilles tendons to stretch and strains the muscles of the legs causing painful cramping in the legs and
eventual crippling. Just imagine the pain if you had to walk around with blocks of wood strapped to the
balls of your feet! If this continues for the long term the dog will display a shuffling walk that may be
permanent. In cases of severe neglect, the nails can curve all the way around until they dig into the pads.
In this case the dog will not be able to walk at all. Unclipped nails also have an effect upon appearance.
The Dog’s jaunty, light-footed walk is a result of its walking well up on its toes". The unclipped dog, on the
other hand is a plodder. How can you tell if your dog’s nails are short enough? Listen as it walks across a
hard floor. If you hear click, click, click, the nails are too long. Many dogs hate to have their nails clipped. If
you don't want to do this yourself, have your Vet or Professional Groomer do it.
Teeth Cleaning: Dogs tend to build up tartar and plaque on their teeth unless regularly cleaned. This will
tend to cause gum disease (periodontal disease) and , gum disease is the leading cause of tooth loss in
dogs. The most serious results can come from severe periodontal disease causing abscesses and in the
most severe cases systemic diseases such as blood poisoning (septicemia) which can cause blindness and
be life threatening. While some dogs seem to be naturally immune to plaque and tartar buildup, most are
prone to some effect.. Some compulsive chewers of hard rubber and nylon toys tend to keep their teeth
well cleaned. Dogs fed on the Raw Diet tend to develop little or no tartar or plaque. An excellent product
for home oral hygiene maintenance is PetzLife ® Oral Care Gel
How do you know if your dog needs its teeth professionally cleaned? Look for swelling, redness, yellowing
teeth, deposits, and bad breath. Most cleaning is done under sedation or anesthesia by Vets. When your
Dog goes to the Vets for a checkup, make sure that the Vet checks the teeth; many do not. If they need to
be cleaned, get it done. Most Dogs don't like having people, especially strangers, prying their mouths
open. Perhaps this is why many vets neglect this important health check. Accustom your Dog to regular
mouth inspections. Invite your friends and relatives to have a look!
Expressing the Anal Glands: All dogs have glands on either side of the anus that normally produces scent.
Sometimes these glands become impacted and swell up. When this happens, your dog will act
uncomfortable and probably will do a lot of scooting on its bottom on your carpets. The dog will also
probably stink since the exudates dammed up in the glands can be pretty rank.If you see this condition
either your Vet or Groomer can take care of it.
Eliminating or Minimizing Skin Disease: Heightened sensitivity to flea bites, dry skin, bacteria, food
allergies, and clogged pores have all been identified as precipitating factors. While some dogs seem to be
blessed with immunity to this, many will show some sign of skin disease, especially in the Summer and
more often in the older dog. Hopefully it isn’t an allergic reaction to dog food. (Pretty common)
How do you detect skin diseases? Your dog will do a lot of scratching and/or pulling out of hair on its back
and legs. The most common spot for this is on the back and buttocks near the base of the tail. As the
condition progresses you will notice reddened areas of skin in the now bare or thinly haired parts. In more
severe cases the skin will be broken and will bleed or weep. What can you do about it? If you take your
dog to the Vets, they will prescribe flea dips, flea shampoos, steroid creams and antibiotics. In more
severe cases they will give cortisone injections. While all these are effective to a degree and easy to do,
they extract their prices on your dog’s health, hygiene, and appearance and also on your pocketbook.
28
There is a better way to avoid or minimize skin disease through grooming! Through these techniques,
visits to the Vets can be reduced and in many cases eliminated entirely.
Bathing : Bathing your Dog is something that you should do infrequently. If you maintain your dog’s coat
and skin in good condition, it will remain clean and odor-free. Bathing is recommended only when your
Dog rolls in something that can't be brushed out. The reasons for this have to do with the nature of the
Dog’s coat and skin and the effect of the chemicals in shampoos upon them. These agents accelerate the
natural aging and dying of the coat. They act to dry the skin and damage the hair. This can lead to a
vicious cycle. Bathing damages the hair. Damaged hair retains more dirt, oil, and odor. Dirty, smelly dogs
need more bathing. And so it goes... If you HAVE to bathe, use a shampoo designed for dogs. Under NO
circumstances should you use a human shampoo. These only make the problem worse. Note that if your
Dog’s coat is naturally soft and/or curly you will probably have to bathe it more frequently. Fortunately
few well-bred dogs have such problem coats. An effective "quick fix" for a smelly, oily, coat is to mist the
coat with water and then rub your dog down with a terry cloth towel. Nearly instantly, your dog will feel
and smell cleaner. Note, however, that this doesn't do any deep cleaning so it is only a temporary
measure.
Grooming Ears: A Dog’s ears are one of its most expressive features. When checking your Dog’s ears,
inspect the ear canal. If you see buildups of dirt or wax, remove it by gently swabbing out the ear with a
little mineral oil. Note that unlike the human ear you can't hurt the eardrum by sticking a swab down in it.
The Dog’s ear canal has a bend in it that prevents you from reaching the drum. You may notice that your
Dog has been shaking its head or rubbing an ear. If so inspect the ear. If it's just dirt or wax buildup you
can fix it by cleaning. If the ear is red, swollen, or has blood, pus, or fluid coming out of it, though, that's a
job for the Vet.
Eye Care: It isn't rare to find foreign matter in the eyes that cause discomfort and a dull expression.
Remove by bathing or gently swabbing the eye with a saline solution. You can buy this in the eye care
section of your drug store or make it at home by dissolving l/8th tsp. salt in 8 oz of warm water). Another
common condition is weeping from the tear ducts. This weeping causes a crusty buildup at the inner
margins of the eyes that causes discomfort, hair loss, and skin reactions. This should be gently washed
with saline. The most serious condition to check for at this time is "dry eye" Here, the eye reduces or
stops its production of tears. When this happens, the eye looks dry and dull, and the dog blinks a lot and
tends to avoid bright lights. If untreated, the condition causes great discomfort and corneal ulceration and
always leads to blindness.
Grooming the Feet: On long haired breeds, this can be done with scissors and is pretty easy to do. The
hair on the bottom of the foot that grows between the pads should be clipped with fine scissors. Watch
that you do NOT cut the webbing between the toes!!! This is one area that has an
impact upon the dog’s comfort if your dog likes to play in the snow. Unless the snow is
very dry it will tend to stick to the hair between the pads, forming ice balls that make
walking painful. If you see your Dog stopping frequently in the snow to chew its feet
suspect that long hair between the pads is the cause of the problem.
29
WEEK SIX
READ: Homework
Until your pup is enrolled in the Home Basics Level One class, continue to practice all your exercises --
make good manners a “way of life” for your pup. Think of other things that your pup will need to get used
to in order to adapt to your family life-style. Try to think of ways to set up situations to teach him to
follow the rules and to build his confidence.
Greetings: Practice controlled greetings at the door, out on walks, at the vet, at parks (bring your pick up
bag!). Greet young, old, male, female, different races of people, people wearing hats, floppy coats,
carrying bags, etc. Let your mailman give your pup a treat on several occasions. Use the calming sit, stand
on the leash if needed, or use a sideways snap on the leash/drag line with a rambunctious, impolite pup.
Sit and Down: Practice once before each meal. Make pup hold the position for up to 10 seconds. Hold the
bowl and if he breaks, put the bowl on the counter while you physically reposition it. Be sure you are
clearly communicating when to stay and when to move. When your pup is waiting patiently, release with
the “Free” command after you’ve placed the bowl down on the floor. Eventually ask the dog to stay after
you’ve placed the bowl on the floor. Block access until the pup holds the sit for 5-10 seconds. Keep
occasionally feeding your pup its dinner in ‘installments’.
Wait: Continue to teach your puppy this lifesaving lesson in waiting for permission to pass through any
kind of entrance/exit. Be sure you’re holding your pup’s line before you open the door. Tell your puppy to
“WAIT!” just before you open the door-part way. If he goes to pass thru it, use the line, if needed, to jerk
him back in the area you have told him to wait in. Close the door and repeat the Wait, opening and
correcting sequence until the pup starts to wait. At this point close the door briefly and praise quietly.
Repeat until the dog is looking at you instead of the door - PRAISE soothingly and then give your pup a
release (permission) to go thru the door. Practice this at every exit of your home, yard and car at various
times during the week.
Sneak Away: This is an outdoor exercise done on a 15' long line for 5 minutes. Your goal is to build your
pup’s attention and teach it to “Follow the Leader” (that’s you!) Work in a open area and walk quietly in a
square DO NOT TALK to your pup or wrestle with the line. If your pup runs ahead of you just move quickly
in the opposite direction. The objectives for this important exercise are to:
Build attention for further training
Teach pup not to pull on the leash
Teach pup to “think” when distracted and check with you before running after it.
Remember:
Move immediately in the opposite direction when the pup leaves you. Be silent.
Hold the right thumb through the handle locked at the waist. (Two hands with bigger pups)
Avoid rescuing tangled feet (and be careful of your own feet getting tangled!)
No cues of any kind (no talking, tugs, etc.) Be silent, so the pup will learn to watch you. Praise ONLY when puppy
makes eye contact with you “YES!”
Any time you walk your puppy and it starts to pull, either step on the line or turn and walk the other way until the
puppy follows you again, then praise/treat it when it looks at you. You may have to make a Lot of turns at the
beginning of every walk.
Your NEXT Step: You should be proud of yourself and of your pup. Kindergarten is an important
foundation for the next class. Pups 5 months and older may advance to the Home Basics Level One class.
Your pup has learned the “A B C’s” of training, now he is ready to learn how to
“read” your commands reliably and to prepare for off-leash control. Classes fill
far in advance, please register early! Register by next week to receive 10% off the
next class fee. Application is attached for your convenience. Thank you for your
participation!
30
Housebreaking Chart Please put W= Water; F= Food; U= Urinated; B = Bowel; A=Accident
Week 1 Sun Mon Tues Wed. Thurs Fri Sat
5:00 AM
6:00 AM
7:00 AM
8:00 AM
9:00 AM
10:00 AM
11:00 AM
12:00 PM
1:00 PM
2:00 PM
3:00 PM
4:00 PM
5:00 PM
6:00 PM
7:00 PM
8:00 PM
9:00 PM
10:00 PM
11:00 PM
Crate your dog overnight where you can ‘hear’ it.
Housebreaking Record
Please put W= Water F= Food U= Urinated B = Bowel
Week 2 Sun Mon Tues Wed Thurs Fri Sat
5:00 AM
6:00 AM
7:00 AM
8:00 AM
9:00 AM
10:00 AM
11:00 AM
12:00 PM
1:00 PM
2:00 PM
3:00 PM
4:00 PM
5:00 PM
6:00 PM
7:00 PM
8:00 PM
9:00 PM
10:00 PM
Tips for Success:
Supervise or confine!
For 1 month chart your
dog’s eating and
elimination habits.
Take the puppy out
after sleep, eating,
drinking & playing.
Young pups need to go
often, the maximum
they can hold it is:
� 2 months = 2 hrs.
� 3 months = 3 hrs.
� 4 months =4 hrs.
� 5 months = 5 hrs.
Max time (crated) is 7-8
hrs. for dogs 6+ months.
Teach a pattern. Teach a
“Potty” command such
as “Hurry Up” or “Go
Potty”
You pick the potty area.
Keep pup on short leash
within a 6 ft. square.
Stay put (don’t move
around) until it goes.
Praise quietly with the
potty command as it
finishes. If it doesn’t go
within 2-3 minutes,
crate it then try again in
another 30 minutes.
Alternate praise, play
and treats as a reward
right as it finishes going.
Crate puppy when you
cannot directly
supervise it.
Watch for your puppy’s
potty signals. Learn
them!
Supervise or confine
until habits are
established.
Fulfilling Our Dogs, Fulfilling Ourselves Excerpt “Cesar’s Way” by Cesar Millan
We need dogs more than they need us. Without us dogs would follow their genetic makeup, form packs,
return to hunting, and establish territories. In many ways, they might be happier. Dogs don't need human
beings to be balanced. In fact, most of the difficulties and instabilities domestic dogs suffer arise from their
living with us behind walls in an industrialized world.
In so many ways, we humans are different from every other being that shares this planet with us. We have
the power to rationalize, which includes the power to fool ourselves. That's what we do when we humanize
animals in order to make ourselves feel better. In doing so, not only do we harm to those animals, but we also
distance ourselves even further from the natural world in which they exist.
Here, in "civilization," we have detached ourselves from that natural world by defining ourselves exclusively
as the superior species, the species that creates, the species that develops. We continue to kill off that more
natural side of ourselves when we become the species that destroys whole ecosystems for the benefit of
money. Yet no matter how much we ravage the earth, our natures yearn to be fulfilled. Why do you think we
plant trees along the freeways? Or put waterfalls in the lobbies of high rises? Why do we decorate our homes
with paintings of landscapes? Even the tiniest inner-city apartments often have window boxes with plants.
We'll spend a year's worth of savings just to take a one-week, sanity-saving vacation by the ocean, by the lake,
in the mountains. That's because, without some connection with Mother Nature, we feel isolated. Our world
feels cold. We feel unbalanced. We die inside.
In America and in some other cultures of the world, dogs and the other animals we bring into our homes
serve as one of our most important links to Nature. We may not even know it consciously, but they are our
lifelines to a part of ourselves that we are at risk of losing altogether.
When we humanize dogs, we cut ourselves off from the vital lessons they have been put here to teach us:
How to live every moment and every day to the fullest.
When we take dogs into our homes, it's our responsibility to fulfill their instinctual needs, so that they can
achieve balance. Dogs don't care about doing tricks, winning trophies, or if their collars have "bling." They don't
care if you live in a big house or even if you have a job. They care about other things . . . like the solidarity of
the pack …. like bonding with their pack leaders during migration… like exploring their world . . . living in the
simple joy of a single moment. If you fulfill your dog in these ways-by giving him exercise, discipline, and
affection, in that order-your dog will happily and willingly return the favor. You will witness the miracle of two
very different species communicating and bonding with each other in ways you never thought possible. You
will achieve in your relationship with your dog the kind of deep connection you always dreamed of having.
YYOOUURR RREEFFEERRRRAALLSS AARREE GGRREEAATTLLYY AAPPPPRREECCIIAATTEEDD!!
32
33
CARE DOG TRAINING HOME BASICS CLASS APPLICATION (KPT GRAD) Please READ all Directions carefully
REGULATIONS: This 6 week Basic obedience class is for all dogs 5 months and older. Handler must be at least 13 yrs. old. ONE
person trains the dog throughout the class. The first lesson is a mandatory Orientation for the handler and meets WITHOUT
DOGS. HOMEWORK must be practiced daily. (Keeping current with the class work is the responsibility of the handler. If an
absence is unavoidable, private make up lessons are available at additional cost when needed. �
REGISTRATION: Classes fill early! PREREGISTRATION is by MAIL only.
Health Certificate: Proof of current rabies immunization only.
See Map for directions. You will receive confirmation by mail, email, or phone.
Please complete the application legibly, sign the agreement, and mail early with $______ fee.
�Receive a 10% discount if you register by last week of puppy class. Make check payable to: MARY MAZZERI
NOTE: The class fee is not refundable after two days preceding the Home Basics Orientation.
Bring or Mail to: 136 Golfview Lane Carpentersville, IL 60110
���� Class Orientation starts: MON TUES SAT_______________________ at__________ am pm
���� NOTE Private lessons ($75/hr) are available for those enrolled in group classes with pressing problems.
By signing and submitting this application I agree to all the regulations and terms of registration. I assume full responsibility
for any incident that may occur and will not hold Care Dog Training, Mary Mazzeri, agents, instructors nor property owners liable.
I have read and agree to all regulations and conditions of registration.
Signature: ____________________________________Dated__________________ (Must be signed and dated by handler or legal guardian if a minor handler.)
Please type or print legibly, thank you.
HANDLER (Person training dog) _______________________________________________________
CELL PHONE _______________________________ Home phone ___________________________
ADDRESS___________________________________ CITY _________________________ ZIP _____________
DOG’S NAME _______________________________________ BORN _________________
BREED (S)____________________________________ GENDER: M F NEUT/SPAY?
Email address _____________________________________________
Name of your Vet & Clinic___________________________________________________________
� Please check/circle problems your dog is having. Number in order of importance. Add any information that will aid
your instructor in helping you to train your dog.
___Not housebroken ___Overactive ___Mounts people
___Urinates when:
excited/afraid
___Jumps on people ___Is aggressive toward:
________________________
___Nuisance barker/whiner ___Play bites ___Guards objects/places
___Chews destructively ___Would bolt (Run off) (growls, snaps, etc.)
___Shy toward ___Doesn’t come when called ___Has bitten (Explain who, why,
severity of bite etc.)
___Stresses easily ___ Pulls on leash
___Other:________________ _______________________ _______________________
Is there anything else we should know about you or your dog? Does dog have any health problems or on
any medications? No __ Yes ____ Please explain on reverse �
OFC USE: Conf: Pc Em Ph ________ Pvt. OR ______ G I TR CR CS CK # ______________ $ ________
