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FEBRUARY 2009 QANTAS 29

UMMER IN AUSTRALIA’S tropical north is the season of sultriness and renewal, dramatic build-up and blessed relief. It’s when the frangipani smells most heady and waterfalls are at full throttle. Brilliant green rainforest teems with life and the frog song is deafening. Rivers are wide. Fish? They’re everywhere.

On paper, it sounds like heaven for travellers. Arguably it is; it’s just the steamy temperatures and occasional flooding rains that muddy the picture. But even the weather

– the Top End’s highest rainfall is between December and March – has its blessings. Think spectacular electrical storms lighting up moody skies, and thunderous afternoon downpours cleansing the days. Indeed, some attractions are at their best in the Wet, and not just because

the crowds are thinner. Barramundi fishing, bat-stalking, birdwatching, rainforest ogling… all come into their own in summer. The bonus for intrepid wet-season travellers is that costs are generally lower. Airfares, accommodation packages and tours come with distinctly off-peak price tags. The heavier the air, the lighter on the pocket.

There’s a perception that things close down in the tropics outside peak tourist season (April to October). But more often than not, they’re operational as long as they’re

accessible (some roads close). Last-minute adjustments are part of the adventure. From Broome to Cairns, the tropical north extends a very green welcome.

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Bamurru Plains (and right)

AUSTRALIA TROPICAL NORTH

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30 QANTAS FEBRUARY 2009

o1Bamurru Plains, edge of Kakadu National Park1300 790 561. www.bamurruplains.comBeing on a wetland, Bamurru Plains’ appeal is only enhanced by an excess of water. Wetness is really the point at this wilderness safari camp, where skimming across the flood plain in an air boat yields sightings of an exotic tally of wildlife, from dragonflies to water monitors to lotus flowers and birds that appear to walk on water. Crocodiles, buffalo, brumbies, wallabies and magpie geese add to the spectacle, though there’s nothing wild about the digs. Gourmet meals, open P

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Northern Territory

About 60 species of birds share the wetlands, river channels, flood plains and swamps; guides can tell them apart, as well as pointing out the crocodiles. Tours depart four times a day during the wet season.

o3Dugong Beach Resort, Groote Eylandt(08) 8987 7077. wwww.dugongbeachresort.com.auNasties in the water preclude swimming at this ocean-side resort, but fish are plentiful in Arnhem Land during the run-off, when receding floodwaters force bait fish off the flood plains and into the river systems. Groote Eylandt is also renowned for its bluewater fishing. Boat tours can be organised via the resort or neighbouring ET Escape Sportsfishing Lodge (www.escapesportfishing.com). Satisfy cultural pangs with an Amuwarngka Cultural Tour. During the wet season, indigenous-run, half-day bush tucker tours are available through the resort.

Nitmiluk Tours, Nitmiluk National Park1300 146 743. www.nitmiluktours.com.au The Nitnit Dreaming Tour makes several daily outings along two gorges of Katherine’s Nitmiluk National Park, uncovering the culture and customs of the Jawoyn people. Canopied catamarans are swapped for powerboats if the water levels are too high. A more hard-core experience can be had on the four-night outback package. Fish on the Katherine River, trawl for freshwater crayfish, spot buffalo from a helicopter and visit a working cattle operation at Conway’s Station.

Northern Rockhole, Jatbula Track, Nitmiluk National Park

Greens are greener, falls are louder and wildlife is frisky‘‘

bar and soft-furnished areas to luxuriate in are abundant. The wilderness camp, west of Kakadu National Park, is accessible by road or air from early February.

o2Yellow Water Cruises, Kakadu National Park(08) 8979 0145. www.yellowwatercruises.com Greens are greener, falls are louder and wildlife is frisky during the green season at Kakadu. A serene way to enjoy the fecundity is on a canopied boat cruising along the landlocked Yellow Water Billabong at the end of Jim Jim Creek.

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