‘QIANA’ FIBRE TO FASHION.

SUBMITTED TO- SUBMITTEDBY-MR.VASANT KOTHARI DIGVIJAY PANDEY M-FTECH(1ST SEM)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOY, BANGALORE

TABLE OF CONTENT PAGE NO

INTRODUCTION………………………………………………………………..03

Some garment picture made of ‘QIANA FIBRE’……………...04

MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF QIANA FIBRE…………..05-08

MELT SPINNING……………………..………………………………..06

PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERSTICS OF QIANA FIBRE….09-12

APPLICATION AND USES OF QIANA FIBRE………………………13

Resource and references…………………………………………………..14

2

INTRODUCTION: Qiana is a silky nylon fiber first developed by DuPont in 1968. Initially intended for high-end fashions, it became a popular material in the 1970s for faux-silk, men's shirts, displaying bold patterns. The shirts were generally cut tight and included wide collars to fit over the collars of the double-knit suit coats which were worn popularly to discosDated on Friday, JULY 5.1968 at a press preview in Manhattan's First National City Bank Building, the chemical Goliath unveiled its latest unnatural discovery: Qiana. (Pronounced kee-ah-nah.).Boasting qualities that are superior to the most luxurious silk fabrics, Qiana gives all the appearance of silk—from the luster of its surface yarn to its light weight, drape and color. Added to this, exotic sounding Qiana—a computerized combination of random letters—is a practical drip-dry wonder that can be machine-washed and still resist wrinkles.To the trade, it was known simply as "Fiber Y." Even at the press preview, Du Pont took no chances of leaking the process before it hits the market at year's end. Six models wearing Qiana garments were escorted by armed guards to prevent any overanxious competitor from the common practice of snipping a sample swatch.The versatile new fabric, which sells for about $5 to $8 per pound (versus $9.30 for silk) at that time, will be found initially only in women's fine apparel, but eventually will be used in all types of clothing. For Du Pont, whose sales and profits, after a long lag, have shown an upturn this year, costly Qiana is not expected to mean an overnight boom. It will, however, take the company into a new area—and help offset sagging textile profits caused by overproduction.Designers such as Emilio Pucci used Qiana for their clothing. It had a wonderful feel and drape, especially for a synthetic fabric. It was used widely in the '70's for evening wear to disco (the look popularized by John Travolta) to everyday.The fabric became a popular one for all types of clothing. Synthetics started to wane in the '80's as people pushed for more natural alternatives. You can

3

go back to the days of wonderful Qiana by buying vintage clothing made from it!

Some garment picture made of ‘QIANA FIBRE’

FIGURE-1 FIGURE-2

4

FIGURE-3 heffyscollections.com

MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF QIANA FIBRE:

QIANA is polymer of NYLON PACM-12.QIANA is aliphatic-aromatic nylon fibre.it is formed by polycondensation of bis(p-aminocyclohexyl) methane and dodecanedioic acid

bis(p-aminocyclohexyl) methane-

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF bis(p-aminocyclohexyl) methane-

5

PHYSICAL STATE yellowish semi-solid

MELTING POINT 35 C

BOILING POINT 339 C

SPECIFIC GRAVITY 0.96 - 0.98SOLUBILITY IN WATER Insoluble

SOLVENT SOLUBILITY  

Ph  

VAPOR DENSITY  

AUTOIGNITION  

NFPA RATINGS Health: 3; Flammability: 1; Reactivity: 0REFRACTIVE INDEX  FLASH POINT 153 CSTABILITY Stable under ordinary conditions

TABLE-01

dodecanedioic acid –

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF dodecanedioic acid

MOLECULER FORMULAC12H22O4

MOLECULER WEIGHT 230.30

MELTING POINT 128C

BOILING POINT 250C at 10 mmHg

SOLUBILITY IN WATER 30 mg/L at 23C

IMPURITY  Degree of purity 100%

GENERAL COMMENT  Vapour pressure is reported as: Log (VP-mmHg) (-4.968) 25C.

TABLE-2

6

PROCESS-

First condensation of bis(p-aminocyclohexyl) methane and dodecanedioic acid is done and we get solid polymer and we divide this solid polymer in small chips. And then fibre is produced by melt spinning.

+

(QIANA)

MELT SPINNING :

Because of low solubility in low boiling and inexpensive organic solvents nylon PACM-12 required technique for converting solid polymer into fibres;hence melt spinning method is used to produce fibre.

Chips of pre dried polymer are fed into melting grid whose holes are so small that only passage of molten polymer is possible.The polymer melted in contact with the hot grid and dripped into a pool where it become the supply for the spinning itself.

The molten polymer is moved forward to a gear type pump that provides both high pressure and a constant rate of flow to the final filter and spinnerette.the filter consist of either sintered metal candle filters ,several metal screens of increasing fineness or graded sand arranged in such a way that finest sand is at the bottom.After being filtered the molten polymer at pressure of several thousand pounds per square inch is extruded through the small capillaries in the heavily constructed spinneretteWe put the

7

temperature of spinnrette atabout 20-30 c above the melting point of nylon

PACM-12 which is 275c. FIGURE -4

After passing through the spinnerette the fibre strand forwarded towards the drawing roller. As fibre strand come out of the spinnerette it comes into contact of cold air for cooling .For drawing we put the second roller speed faster(usually 400%) than the supply roller. The long molecule of polymer which is randomly positioned in molten polymer when extruded from spinnerette tend to form ‘crystalline’ areas of molecular dimensions as the polymer solidify in the form of freshly spun fibre.

8

FIGURE-5

PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERSTICS OF QIANA FIBRE:

Morphology of fibre-

9

FIGURE-6

Two-step melt spinning, comprised of spinning and drawing, is considered to be the conventional method to manufacture nylon filaments. After melting, filtering, and deaerating, the molten polymer is extruded through a spinneret into a chamber where the melt solidifies into a filament form. At this stage, the filaments have little molecular orientation, and their slight birefringence is due to shear forces set up during extrusion. In order to achieve desirable properties through molecular orientation and crystallinity, the newly formed filaments must be drawn.

In essence, cold drawing stretches chains in amorphous regions, but molecular folds are restricted and the molecules orient themselves along the fiber axis direction, resulting in enhanced orientation and high crystallinity. In the case of nylons, which have sheet-like crystal structures, drawing may enable the hydrogen-bonded polyamide sheets to slip past each other and form more oriented structure . Hot drawing is a procedure using high temperature during drawing and annealing under restraint after drawing. Exposure to high temperature helps to increase the draw ratio, and higher moduli and tenacity can be achieved.. Ultra drawing of solidified crystalline material induces a high degree of chain extension , which leads

10

to very high tensile strength and modulus. This results in a so-called high-performance fiber.

FIGURE-7

Crystalline structure- Aliphatic polyamides are able to crystallize mostly because of

strong intermolecular hydrogen bonds through the amide groups , and because of Vander walls forces between the methylene chains. Since these unique structural and thermo-mechanical

11

properties of nylons are dominated by the hydrogen bonds in these polyamides, quantum chemistry can be used to determine the hydrogen bond potential.

The tenacity- of QIANA fibre is 3-3.5g/den and elongation at break of 20%-30%.

Density -1.03 g/cc

The modulus- is approx.100 g/den

Moisture regain- 2.0-2.5 which much lower than nylon 6 and nylon 66.

The dimensional stability is high because of high glass-transition tempreture and it is stable upto 180 c.

Melting point -275 c.

Extremely chemically stable .

No mildew or bacterial effects.

Degraded by light as natural fibers.

The -COOH and -NH2 end-groups in nylons are sensitive to light, heat, oxygen, acids and alkali. When exposed to elevated temperatures, unmodified nylons undergo molecular weigh degradation, which results in loss of mechanical properties. The degradation is highly time/temperature dependent.

Permanent set by heat and steam.

Abrasion resistant.

Lustrous- Nylon fibers have the luster of silk.

12

Easy to wash.

The Qiana fibre was also used in Millitary applications such as Ballon clothes,Glider tow ropes.

DYEING-Can be pre colored or dyed in wide range of colors; dyes are applied to the molten mass of nylon or to the yarn or finished fabric.Disperse,acid dyes are used

The dyeing efficiency of nylon fibers is enhanced due to the end groups -COOH and -NH2, which exhibit polar and hydrophilic characteristics. Dye diffusion into fibers is closely related to the rate of dyeing, level of dyeing through dye migration, wet fastness properties of dyes, etc. It is generally believed that dye diffusivity is independent on dye concentration, with some exception

Resilient.

Filament yarn provides smooth, soft, fabric.

Spun yarn lend fabrics light weight and warmth

 Nylon fibers are used for the manufacture of split table-pie fibers. These fibers find application in high performance wipes, synthetic suede, heat insulators, battery separators and specialty papers.

Different kind of texture can be produced by applying certain effects.

13

FIGURE-8

APPLICATION AND USES OF QIANA FIBRE:

Generally used in apparel product like disco shirts ,lady gown and where more lusture is required because it resembles like silk lusture.QIANA fibre is used in high performance NONWOVENS USAGE

products.

The fiber has outstanding durability and excellent physical properties. Like PET fiber, it has a high melting point, which conveys good high- temperature performance. The fiber is more water sensitive than PET; despite this fact, nylon is not considered a comfortable fiber in contact with the skin. Its toughness makes it a major fiber of choice in carpets, including needle punched floor-covering products. Because of its relatively high cost, nylon has somewhat limited use in nonwoven products. It is used as a blending fiber in some cases, because it conveys excellent tear strength. The resiliency and wrinkle recovery performance of a nonwoven produced from nylon is not as excellent as that from PET fiber

The stability of the QIANA-bonded nonwoven fabric at 610°F is unexpected, in view of the fact that the softening point of QIANA fiber is stated in the literature to be 447°F, and the melting point 525°F, and that the nonwoven fabrics of this invention employing QIANA fibers as the binder fiber are formed by hot calendering the NOMEX-QIANA fibrous web at 475°-495°F.

14

Because of high lusture it can be use in rugs to increase aesthetic value and providing sharp motifs in woolen carpets .

Resource and references:

http://books.google.com/books? id=AYjFoLCNHYUC&pg=PA458&lpg=PA458&dq=nylon+pacm-12&source=bl&ots=GO-tUEavGA&sig=JsyBYPYWBMFCny5vu2TAs8uaKoU&hl=en&ei=FtZ4TOyRDoSlccbApOoF&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CCoQ6AEwBw#v=onepage&q=nylon%20pacm-12&f=false

http://books.google.com/books? id=I0ncwaSwEvsC&printsec=frontcover&dq=A+text+book+of+fibre+science+and+technology&source=bl&ots=zPj-DG-kCN&sig=Y3_nW9AG4hRtEMASGaAmBmdLIIc&hl=en&ei=Z-54TMaOI9ePcNeooYYG&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBQQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false

http://www.engr.utk.edu/mse/Textiles/Nylon%20fibers.htm

http://cameo.mfa.org/browse/record.asp?subkey=6508

http://heffyscollections.blogspot.com/2008/08/qiana-by-dupont.html

15

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,941636,00.html

Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

16