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REHAIRING A BOW OF THE VIOLIN FAMILY

By Lars Kirmser

TOOL REQUIREMENTS:

KIRMSER BOW REHAIRING JIG (Plans available)HAIR GAUGEPOINTED AWLWEDGE DRIVER5 mm MORTISE CHISEL18 mm STRAIGHT CHISELPUTTY KNIFE (1" Blade)TABLESPOONSLIP-JOINT PLIERSMALL DIAGONAL PLIERSCISSORSFINE-TOOTHED COMB (i.e. Metal Dog-Grooming Comb)ALCOHOL LAMPHARDWOOD CUTTING BLOCK (4" X 4")SMALL RAT-TAIL FILEWEDGE DRESSING WHEEL ON ARBOR

MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS:

GOOD QUALITY BOW HAIR (min. 31")BOW WEDGE MATERIAL (Basswood)DARK SHELLAC STICKS* FINE (00) STEEL BINDING WIRE* NO. 40 HEAVY COTTON THREAD* WAXED DENTAL FLOSS* #25 LINEN THREADCONTAINER OF FRESH WATERALIPHATIC RESIN GLUE (Carpenter's Yellow Glue)POWDERED ROSIN000 STEEL WOOLBEE'S WAXTUNG OIL

Sax MPCs by Drakewww.DrakeMouthpie…

Chosen by theGreatest Handmade

in the USA

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* Any of these wrapping materials may be used (your preference)

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I. INITIAL INSPECTION

It is very important that you evaluate the precise state of the bow at the time the customerpresents it to you for rehairing (or repairing). It is at this time that you must determine anyand all conditions that must be corrected prior to the rehairing process, so that you may advisethe client of possible additional charges. Following, is a list of some of the problems that mayhave to be corrected before you proceed with the rehairing of the bow.

*CLEANING THE BOW STICK*RE-CAMBERING THE BOW STICK*STRAIGHTENING THE BOW STICKREFINISHING THE BOW STICKCLEANING AND RE-CUTTING (DRESSING-UP) THE TIP WEDGE MORTISEREPAIRING A FRACTURED TIP WEDGE MORTISERE- BUSHING A BADLY WORN OR DAMAGED TIP WEDGE MORTISE*THE REPLACEMENT OF A MISSING OR BROKEN IVORY (BONE, SILVER) TIPREPAIRING A FRACTURED TIPGRAFTING A TIP WHICH HAS BEEN COMPLETELY SEPARATED FROM THESTICKREPAIRING A FRACTURED STICKREPAIRING A STICK WHICH HAS BEEN BROKEN IN TWO*REPLACING A MISSING OR DAMAGED WRAPPING (WIRE, WHALEBONE,TINSEL, ETC.)*REPLACING A MISSING OR DAMAGED LEATHER GRIPRE-BUSHING A DAMAGED OR BADLY WORN FROG MORTISE (ON THESTICK)REPAIRING A STICK WHICH HAS BEEN CRACKED AT THE FROG ENDGRAFTING ON A REPLACEMENT FROG MORTISE SECTION TO THE STICK*CLEANING AND RE-CUTTING (DRESSING-UP) THE FROG WEDGE MORTISEREPAIRING A DAMAGED FROG (i.e. CRACKS ALONG THE SLIDE RAILS)REPLACING A DAMAGED OR BADLY WORN PEARL SLIDE*REPLACING OR REFITTING THE BRASS EYELETREPLACING OR REFITTING THE FERRULEREPLACING A SCREW AND/OR SCREW BUTTONREPLACING A FROG HEALREPLACING A FROG LINERREPLACING A PEARL INLAY (EYE)

* Repairs Commonly Required

II. PRELIMINARY STEPS

A. "SNIP" THE OLD HAIR OFF IN FRONT OF THE CUSTOMER

This will assure the customer that you will, in fact, replace the hair.(Save the old hair and make brushes with it later!)

B. REMOVE THE TIP WEDGE AND REMAINING HAIR

Carefully pry the old wedge up from the back-side of the wedgemortise. This may be done with your mortise chisel or sharp awl. If thewedge does not want to come out easily, you may have to carefullyremove the old wedge one sliver at a time. Be very careful not todamage the mortise or change its dimensions! Occasionally theprevious technician will have glued the wedges, in which case youshould be careful not to damage the tip or mortise while removing thedried glue and wedge chards.

C. DISASSEMBLE THE FROG

This process should be performed while the frog remains firmlyclamped, and the whole bow assembly is held firmly in your rehairingjig. This will help to avoid damage to the frog.

Carefully remove the ferrule with your ferrule-removing plier. I use a

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converted 6" channel-lock plier, that I have shaped each jaw to fitperfectly around each side of the ferrule. After the jaws are shaped toperfectly match the outline of each side of the ferrule, I polish each faceto be absolutely smooth, so that it doesn't scratch or damage theferrule. After you grasp the ferrule with the plier, gently 'walk' it offthe frog tongue by gently 'wobbling' it back-and-forth, until it may beeasily removed. Do not force the ferrule too much, as you maypermanently damage the tongue of the frog. Again, avoid putting pliermarks on the side of the ferrule. If the ferrule will not come off withreasonable force, you will then have to carefully cut-away the ferrulewedge with a small chisel or awl.

Once the ferrule is free, remove the ferrule wedge, by lifting theremaining hair and then carefully paring the wedge material away withyour violin knife. The thin ferrule wedge is often glued when installed,so be very careful to avoid removing any of the frog material(traditionally ebony, other exotic hardwoods, ivory, and rarely, tortoiseshell).

Remove the pearl slide by first gently tapping the slide on its front edgewith your small nylon faced hammer. You may then proceed to firmlypush the pearl slide out with your thumb. Do not hit the slide too hardwith your hammer, as this may cause the pearl to become jarred looseor to chip. If you are still unable to push the slide off with thumbpressure alone, you may use the sharp flat edge of a mortise chisel bycarefully wedging it between the back edge of the pearl slide, and theend of the slide channel (heal). You are then usually able to get yourthumb nail in-between the slide and heal to work the pearl slide out. Ifthe pearl slide still refuses to slide out, then warm the frog a bit with aheat gun (dry - flameless heat) being careful not to overdo it.

Remove the frog wedge by lifting up the remaining hair and carefullyprying the leading edge of the wedge out with your mortise chisel orsharp awl. Again, if the wedge does not come up easily, you may haveto remove it sliver-by-sliver, being careful not to damage the mortise orchange its dimensions.

Remove the stick from the rehairing jig.

Remove the frog from the stick.

Check the overall condition of the frog and all of its parts:

Is the ferrule distorted or marred-up?Are the frog's slide rails or the linercracked?Is the brass eyelet stripped or showingexcessive wear?Is the liner loose, bent, or corroded?Is the button screw in good condition?Is the metal heal (if present) unglued, un-tracked?Is the pearl-eye chipped; missing?

D. CLEAN THE STICK AND ALL PARTS

Use an appropriate varnish cleaner (i.e. xylene). DO NOT use alcoholon varnished surfaces, unless, of course, you wish to remove the entirefinish. If the frog ferrule is blemished, you may burnish out any visible pliermarks or scratches, and buff it lightly with white compound, however,on student bows (nickel ferrules) it makes more sense to just replacethe part, if you have it in stock.

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III. PERFORM ALL NECESSARY REPAIRS AND ADJUSTMENTS

*CLEANING THE BOW STICK*RECAMBERING THE BOW STICK*STRAIGHTENING THE BOW STICKREFINISHING THE BOW STICKCLEANING AND RE-CUTTING (DRESSING-UP) THE TIP WEDGEMORTISEREPAIRING A FRACTURED TIP WEDGE MORTISERE-BUSHING A BADLY WORN OR DAMAGED TIP WEDGE MORTISE*THE REPLACEMENT OF A MISSING OR BROKEN IVORY (BONE,SILVER) TIPREPAIRING A FRACTURED TIPGRAFTING A TIP WHICH HAS BEEN COMPLETELY SEPARATEDFROM THE STICKREPAIRING A FRACTURED STICKREPAIRING A STICK WHICH HAS BEEN BROKEN IN TWO*REPLACING A MISSING OR DAMAGED WRAPPING (WIRE,WHALEBONE, TINSEL, ETC.)*REPLACING A MISSING OR DAMAGED LEATHER GRIPRE-BUSHING A DAMAGED OR BADLY WORN FROG MORTISE (ONTHE STICK)REPAIRING A STICK WHICH HAS BEEN CRACKED AT THE FROGENDGRAFTING ON A REPLACEMENT FROG MORTISE SECTION TOTHE STICK*CLEANING AND RE-CUTTING (DRESSING-UP) THE FROG WEDGEMORTISEREPAIRING A DAMAGED FROG (i.e. CRACKS ALONG THE SLIDERAILS)REPLACING A DAMAGED OR BADLY WORN PEARL SLIDE*REPLACING OR REFITTING THE BRASS EYELETREPLACING OR REFITTING THE FERRULEREPLACING A SCREW AND/OR SCREW BUTTONREPLACING A FROG HEALREPLACING A FROG LINERREPLACING A PEARL INLAY (EYE)

* Repairs Commonly Required

IV. THE REHAIR PROCESS

A. PLACE THE BOW (WITH FROG ATTACHED) INTO YOURREHAIRING JIG

Lubricate the frog liner with a small amount of paraffin.

Make sure that the assembled frog slides back and forth onthe stick smoothly and easily. There should be a minimumof side-to-side wobble, which would indicate a badly wornslide mortise (on inexpensive plastic bows, thisconsideration is mute).

Adjust the frog's relative position is such that after thescrew comes into contact with the eyelet, make 5 or 6complete turns to fully stabilize the frog on the stick.

With the partially assembled bow firmly in place in thebow jig, carefully clean and "dress" the tip wedge mortiseand the frog wedge mortise at this time. Refer to thegraphic showing the correct shapes for each mortise.

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Fabricate the tip and frog wedges with precision. If youhave dressed the mortises, you will have to make newwedges.These wedges MUST fit their respective mortises exactly,like pieces of a puzzle! I never reuse the old wedges as theyare generally spent after each use. There can be no shortcuts here, because if the wedges are over-sized, they willlikely split-out the frog or tip; if they are too under-sized,they will fail to hold the hair sufficiently. (See illustrations)

Validate the fit of the pearl slide and the ferrule; re-fabricate a new slide or ferrule if necessary.

Lubricate the slide with paraffin, and work it back-and-forth

V. BOW HAIR SPECIFICATIONS

A. BULK

I recommend that you purchase your bow hair in bulk,from a reputable wholesaler. There are several companieswhich qualify. Currently, I buy my hair from Wagman -Grenamyer, Inc., 10 Strawberry St., Philadelphia, PA19106 (800) 229-5059. Generally, I purchase 33" Black hairfor student bows, and some Cello and Dbl. Bass bows. Thecost of this black hair is very reasonable, and the quality isoften nearly as good as the premium white hair. In the shopwe are able to use black hair only on Dbl. Bass bows, andan occasional Cello bow, as most advanced violinists andviolists strongly prefer the white hair only. I do notrecommend that you buy hair in the single coil form. Theyare rarely the correct size (number of hairs per hank), andthe price/per is usually prohibitive. If you ever do use asingle coil, be advised that the ends are only temporarilysealed with sealing wax, and must be re-wrapped andprepared as follows:

VI. PREPARE THE HAIR HANK

A. SELECT THE APPROPRIATE NUMBER OF HAIRS FOR THEBOW

Use the violin hole on your hair gauge to pull your firstdozen violin hanks. If you end up with too many or too few

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hairs (for a specific bow) you will be able to adjust as isnecessary later on. This process consists of packing asmany hairs as will fit into the violin hole on your gauge.Proceed by trimming-off the bundle of hairs as close to thetop of the bulk tail as is possible, with an end-nipper. Oncethe bundle is separated from the tail, temporarily securethe hank with a short length of iron binding wire and wrapinto a neat coil for the time being; we will secure itpermanently later on. The actual number of hairs whichmakeup a hank will depend upon the specific instrumentbow type and size you will be rehairing. In addition, youwill find that the relative sizes of the mortises will varyslightly from one specific bow to another. Generally, a 4/4Violin bow will require approximately 150 hairs, Violabows around 175 hairs, Cello bows approximately 200hairs, and Dbl. Bass bows somewhere in the neighborhoodof 225 hairs (there is a wide variation among Dbl. Bassbows). When you make your Hair Gauge, you will use a #33drill for the violin slot, #30 drill for the Viola slot, #29 drillfor the Cello, and a #27 drill for the Dbl. Bass bow.

B. SECURE THE HAIRS WITH YOUR CHOICE OF WRAPPING

Note: Each type of wrapping material requires its ownspecific technique for holding the hair properly. Refer toyour notes outlining the appropriate methods for usingeach material (i.e. wire, waxed floss, linen thread, etc.). Ifone end of your (white) hank is noticeably darker than theother, then this darker end should be placed at the tip ofthe bow.

When you first "pulled" the bow hank from the large tail,you secured it temporarily with wire or threadapproximately 1" from the end nearest the top. Now, tosecure this end permanently, we must saturate the endhairs with liquefied (hot) dark shellac. This may beaccomplished by carefully fanning the hairs out so that youmay saturate them with the molten shellac in your spoon(or putty knife) while holding over the alcohol lamp. Whilethe shellac is still liquefied, secure the hairs firmly withyour chosen wrapping material. This will insure that thehairs are sufficiently bound together and will be less likelyto pull out. Secure the wrap before the shellac cools andhardens.

Next, snip the extra hair off (beyond the wire wrap) toallow only 1 to 1 1/2 mm of hair to protrude beyond thewire.

Singe (burn) the ends of your freshly wrapped hank toform a slightly bulbous enlargement on the end. Avoidgetting the wire overly hot, and be careful not to burn thehairs behind the wire wrapping.

Flatten the bulbous shellacked-end slightly with thewarmed jaws of your flat nosed plier to reduce the overallthickness of the wrap.

The entire wrapping (wire plus "bulb") should be able tofit comfortably inside the mortise; this means that thewrapping plus the thickness of the hair (as it turnsupwards) will fit comfortably into the length of the mortise.(see illustration)

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VII. INSTALL THE HAIR INTO THE FROG MORTISE

Pre-shape your frog wedge so that it will fit perfectly into its mortise.

Cause the shellacked-end to conform to the contours of the frogmortise by heating the brass wedge driver, and carefully packing theshellacked-hair into the mortise. Do not get the driver so hot that it willsinge the hairs.

Secure the hair into the mortise with the wedge. When pressed in fully,the top surface of the wedge should be level with the adjacent edges ofthe frog mortise (with the hair confined to the back of the wedge). (seeillustration)

Draw the hair into a ribbon and pull it as you lay it into its channel;carefully slip the pearl slide over the hair. The fit should not be overlysnug, such that the hair is forced up against the slide, causing it bulgeout when push all the way in.

Draw the hank of hair through the ferrule, such that the correct side ofthe ferrule end up against the frog. (Note: The outside corners of theferrule, that is those facing away from the frog, are usually slightlyrounded).

Place the ferrule into position on the tongue and over the ribbon ofhair.Pre-shape your ferrule wedge so that it will fit snugly into place. Priorto placing it into position on the frog, trim its length with an X-Actosaw so that you end up with a flat, evenly trimmed surface, when fullypressed into position. Note that one side (the side that contacts the hair)will be flat; the other side will reflect the angel of the frog's tongue; thewedge will fill the entire space snugly.

Place a small dab of aliphatic resin (yellow carpenter's glue) on the flatside of the wedge facing the hair, and then press firmly into place suchthat the hair is spread into an even ribbon between the flat side of theferrule and the ferrule wedge. Pull the hair firmly as you drive thewedge in, and do not allow the hair to slip back into the frog. If thisdoes happen, the hair will work itself out later when the finished bow isdrawn up to tension. Also, be careful not to let any hairs slip aroundthe sides of he wedge; the wedge should fill the entire ferrule cavity.

You may find it helpful to rest the heal of the frog on the edge of yourbench as you drive the ferrule wedge firmly into place with a pre-shaped screwdriver blade. I can't stress the importance of the "snugfactor " here. The ferrule wedge is the first line of defense against thehair pulling loose.

Grasp the frog firmly and test the hair by trying to pull the hair out ofthe frog (use significant force) this will test the "holding power" ofyour new wedge. . . . .pull hard, as it is better to discover any weaknessin your handiwork now, rather than later.

VIII. COMB THE HAIR AND TIE IT OFF

A. PLACE THE HAIR (ONLY) IN A JAR OF WATER FOR AMINUTE OR TWO

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You must remove the frog from the stick and coil the hairinto the jar of water and hook the frog over the edge of thejar (allow 1" between the frog and the water so themoisture won't wick-up into the frog ferrule wedge).

B. REPLACE THE FROG BACK ONTO THE STICK AND SECUREIT INTO THE JIG

Adjust the frog's position (relative to the stick) so that afterthe screw comes into contact with the eyelet, make 3 or 4complete turns to allow for the adjustment of the new hairafter it shrinks overnight from drying. Be sure that the frogis pushed completely forward in its mortise while secure inthe rehairing jig.

C. COMB THE HAIR AND SECURE WITH THE WRAPPING

Comb the wet hair into an even ribbon by squeezing firmlybetween your thumb and fore finger; excess water will beremoved during this step. Make every effort to get the hairsrunning exactly straight-and-even prior to clamping theribbon in place with your securing clamp. Try to avoidbreaking hairs off during this process. You can use yourfingers to squeeze the hairs into a flat ribbon --- pulling toohard at this point will result in making the hairs too short(after drying) and generally uneven in tension, so don'toverdo the pulling.

Place a small drop or two of liquid shellac at the tie offpoint; avoid using cyano-acrilate adhesives.

Tie off the hair beyond the edge of the mortise. The tie-offpoint is exactly one length of the mortise, beyond the edgeof the mortise (see illus.).

Unclamp the hair and trim off the excess (again, 1 to 1 1/2mm beyond the wrapping. Hold the hair firmly at this pointso that it doesn't shift in the tie-off.

D. PREPARE THE WRAPPED HANK

Trim and singe the end of the hank identically as before.

Apply the hot shellac so that it penetrates well into the endof the tie-off . This may be accomplished by heating upshellac in a spoon over your alcohol lamp, and dipping theend of the hair into the pool of liquid shellac, and workingit well into the bulb.

Flatten the bulbous end (only slightly) with the warmedjaws of your flat nosed plier.

IX. INSTALL THE HAIR INTO THE TIP

A. UNCLAMP THE FROG FROM THE JIG AND REMOVE ITFROM THE JIG

At this point you have to be very careful to keep the ribbonof hair flat and correctly referenced with respect to the tipmortise (as you remove the frog and place it off to the side

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in preparation to press the hair into the tip mortise).

Press in the tip wedge. When fully pressed in, the topsurface of the wedge should be level with the adjacent edgesof the bow tip, and the hair should be drawn over thewedge such that it completely covers the wedge. Thereshould be no evidence of a bulge. If too much wood remainsafter pressing fully in the mortise, you may trim the excessby paring it away with your violin knife (don't cut any ofthe hairs!). I will place a dull single edge razor bladebetween the violin knife and the hair to avoid loosing hairs.

Proceed by placing the frog back on the stick, such that thehairs run in an exact even ribbon from tip to frog. You mayestablish the ribbon's alignment by running a mediumcomb through the hair.

Loosen-up the hair (back off the screw) and allow it to drythoroughly over night. Prior to drying, the hair should notbe tight, as it will shorten considerably as it drys. If you donot allow sufficiently for this shrinkage, it will probablyresult in a popped-loose hank, or worse yet, a snapped-offtip!

X. MAKE FINAL ADJUSTMENTS

A. DRAW UP ANY LOOSE HAIRS (STRAGGLERS) WITH THEHOT AIR GUN

At this point you should not have more than 6 or 7"danglers". You will shrink these stragglers by running thehair carefully over a hot air gun (flameless heat) until theydraw up evenly with the rest of the ribbon. Be very carefulnot to overheat the hairs as this will make them very brittle,causing them to break easily as the bow is drawn across thestrings. Don't hold the hair too close to the hot air. . . . go atit slowly until you feel comfortable with this step.

Remove any hairs which are exceptionally long or havebroken off. Never pull the hairs out, as this will loosen thebundle inside the frog and tip. Instead, snip the hairs off ateither end.

XI. FINAL INSPECTION

A. THE HAIR SHOULD BE VERY SECURE AT THE TIP AND ATTHE FROG.

B. ALL HAIRS ARE EVEN AND RUN A STRAIGHT LINE FROMFROG TO TIP.

The ribbon should cover the tip wedge fully.

The ribbon should be evenly distributed beneath the frogferrule with none of the hairs slipping around the sides ofthe ferrule wedge.

C. CHECK THE HAIR RIBBON WHEN THE SCREW IS FULLYLOOSENED

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When you loosen the hair fully, the hair should just beginto show evidence of a loose bundle. It should not be so loosethat it falls limply around the stick, nor should it be so tightthat you can not fully remove the tension on the bow. Adelicate balance must be met here.

D. BRING THE TENSION OF THE HAIR UP TO PLAYINGSTRENGTH

As you slowly tighten the hair, it should "rise" slowly offthe stick to form an even flat ribbon. If the sides of theribbon come up to tension before its' center becomestaught, then your hair is uneven. If the center becomestaught before either side, then again, your hair is notdrawing evenly. If either of these conditions, or variationsare allowed to persist, then the bow stick will likely begin towarp over time. There should be equal tension on all thehairs across the ribbon of hair. This can be determined bybringing the bow up to tension and drawing you thumbacross the ribbon, checking for an even resistance acrossthe hair.

E. CHECK THE HAIR FOR SIDE-TO-SIDE MOVEMENT AT THEFERRULE WEDGE

The ferrule wedge must fill the entire space between thehair and the ferrule, it should be secured tightly, andreinforced with aliphatic resin (carpenter's glue). You maycheck for this by first bringing the bow up to tension, thengrasping the hair in front of the ferrule and try tophysically move it back-and-forth in the ferrule. Movementgenerally suggests that the ferrule wedge is too loose, or hasslipped.

F. CHECK THE PEARL SLIDE

There should be no evidence of a "bulge" at the pearl slide,indicating that the hair has dislodged from its' wedge insidethe frog.

G. CHECK THE FROG FOR ADJUSTMENT

Make sure that the screw-to-eyelet alignment is inadjustment. If this adjustment is out of alignment, the frogwill not adjust smoothly, back and forth when tighteningand loosening. You may improve a sluggish frog somewhatby applying some cork grease (or other paste lubricant) tothe threads of the screw and the frog liner.

When adjusted correctly, there should be an absence ofside-to-side wobble of the frog on a superior bow. This is amute issue on the inexpensive plastic bows, however, eventhese less expensive bows may be adjusted to be fairlysecure.

H. TREAT THE BOW HAIR WITH POWDERED ROSIN

This is normally done by drawing the bow up to tensionand dusting the hair with some powered rosin (in a longtrough). Work the rosin into the hairs and follow this step

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by applying a cake of rosin in the manner that is incommon use by the player.

I. WIPE THE BOW - CLEAN AND SHIP IT!

BIBLIOGRAPHY

AMATEUR FIDDLE MAKERS Q AND A ---Harry S. Wake Published by the author 1980BOW MAKING - 1000 BOWS AND A TRIBUTE --- John Alfred Bolander BookletBOWS AND BOW MAKERS --- Wm. C. Retford --- Pub. Novello & Co. Limited Edition 1972AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF THE VIOLIN --- Alberto Bachmann Da Capo Press, New York 1966HOW TO MAKE A VIOLIN BOW --- Frank V. Henderson Murray Publishing Co. Seattle 1977HOW TO REHAIR BOWS --- J. P. McKinney University Press Fresno, CA 1970HOW TO SELECT A BOW FOR VIOLIN FAMILY INSTRUMENTS --- Balthasar Planta ZurichA LUTHIER'S SCRAPBOOK --- Harry S. Wake Published by the author at San Diego, CA 1979THE RETFORD CENTENARY EXHIBITION --- Ealing Strings London 1975SOME NOTES ON THE REHAIRING OF BOWS --- Max Moller Reprint: Violins & Violinist 1959VIOLIN BOW MAKING --- John Alfred Bolander Published by Boyd Poulsen, San Mateo, CA 1981VIOLIN BOW REHAIR AND REPAIR --- Harry S. Wake Published by the author at San Diego 1975VIOLIN MAKING AS IT WAS AND IS --- Ed Heron - Allen Ward Lock Ltd. London 1885

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