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The Cory StoryNewark mayor and U.S. senator-elect from New Jersey Cory Booker needs just a few tweaks for an enhanced style. Page MW3
MAN OF THE WEEK
October 24, 2013
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Rising SonsTokyo is a fashion capital of men’s wear, particularly when it comes to street style. During the city’s recent fashion week, a play on proportions and an abundance of animal and floral prints were the key trends outside the runway shows. For more Tokyo They Are Wearing, see page MW2.
THEY ARE WEARING®
PLUSSandro puts focus on
men’s in Brooklyn. Page MW3
Hickey FreemanSet for Expansion
LUXURY PLAY
Younger-skewed collection, revamped styling in the cards.
{Continued on page MW3}
by JEAN E. PALMIERI
GRANO RETAIL HOLDINGS has big plans for Hickey Freeman.
Late Monday, the privately held invest-ment firm finalized its acquisition of all the tangible assets of the Hickey Freeman brand, including its factory in Rochester, N.Y., from W Diamond Group. Under the terms of the deal, which was first reported by WWD in July, Grano signed a 40-year li-cense with Authentic Brands Group, which purchased the Hickey Freeman label as part of its acquisition of HMX Group last year, to produce the brand.
“We are delighted to complete this acqui-sition and focus on working with the great employees of Hickey Freeman to grow the business,” said Stephen Granovsky, chief executive officer of Grano, which also owns the Samuelsohn men’s wear brand. “We be-lieve in this industry and continue to search for opportunities to expand our footprint in luxury men’s apparel.”
Grano believes that under his com-pany’s tutelage, Hickey can grow as much as 50 percent over the next three to five years. And combined with its other men’s label, the Montreal-based Samuelsohn, the brands can eventually have sales of $100 million, he projected.
Granovsky will serve as ceo of the newly formed Hickey Freeman Tailored Clothing company. Arnold Brant Silverstone, Samuelsohn’s president, will be chief creative officer of both brands, and Alan Abramowicz will become president and chief operating officer of HFTC.
“We’re very excited,” Silverstone said. “With the two brands, it should make us the largest luxury tailored clothing manufac-turer in North America.”
He said the 210,000-square-foot Hickey factory can produce both full and half can-vas clothing, while the Samuelsohn factory in Montreal produces only full-canvas gar-ments. Since the Hickey factory is not at full capacity, “this opens the door for some op-portunities,” Silverstone said.
In addition, he said the plan is to cre-ate “younger product that will be shorter, tighter and cooler.” That collection, which will have its own distinct name, will retail for less than $1,000, Silverstone said, and will be produced either under license or in-house. The name, which has yet to be deter-mined, will most likely have the words “for Hickey Freeman” on its label, he said. “We want to have that association.” An off-the-rack Hickey suit opens at around $1,495.
Hickey’s made-to-measure presence will also be increased. Currently, only around one-quarter of Hickey’s business comes
Men’s WeekMW2 WWD THURSDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2013
FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE
WWD.com/menswear-news.
THEY ARE WEARING
Pacific LifeTokyo’s street style continues to push men’s wear’s boundaries, blending traditional tailoring with urban references and a playful twist on silhouettes.
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Men’s Week MW3WWD thursday, october 24, 2013
Pockets Reopens With New Owners
from the made-to-measure catego-ry, but Silverstone expects to grow that number to around 35 percent within a few seasons. “That’s what we did with Samuelsohn over three years,” he said, “and we want to do the same with Hickey.”
He said the company is also “working on more than one licens-ing agreement for the brand” in order to “give it bigger scope.”
All told, Grano is planning to in-vest significantly to revamp the ven-erable label, which was founded in 1899. That will include new fits and
styles, updated packaging and la-beling, a new marketing campaign and a new showroom in New York City. “It’s massive what we have to undertake,” Silverstone said.
The showroom will be “separate and distinct” from Samuelsohn’s U.S. office and showroom on West 57th Street, he said. “We want the brands to grow on their own. But we’re hoping it will be in the same neighborhood. We’re negotiating and looking for space now.”
Silverstone also noted that the key management at Hickey has been retained, including Jon
Morales, vice president of design. Silverstone said the company will add vice president positions in marketing, merchandising, manu-facturing and sales. “And we’ll keep growing our team in opera-tions and systems,” he said.
Silverstone added that while “you’re going to see some tweaks for fall ’14, the full impact won’t be felt until spring ’15.”
Since being acquired by Grano in 2010, Samuelsohn’s volume has grown fourfold, according to the company, which did not pro-vide a volume figure. It produces
private-label suits for Paul Stuart and Harry Rosen, and sells its own Samuelsohn-label goods to more than 250 upscale depart-ment and specialty stores in the U.S. and Canada.
In a letter to employees sent after the deal was finalized, Doug Williams, the former ceo of HMX and current ceo of W Diamond, said Granovsky and his partner Lawrence Pollack “have done an amazing job with Samuelsohn since they ac-quired it several years ago and will be equally amazing owners and stew-ards of the Hickey Freeman brand. The entire team at W Diamond looks forward to them enhancing the tra-ditions of Hickey Freeman and sup-porting all of their future efforts.”
Hickey Poised for GrowtH{Continued from page MW1}
Man ofTHE WEEK
A look from Samuelsohn.
POCKETS MENSWEAR has been reborn.Five months after closing its Highland
Park Village store after nearly four de-cades in business, the upscale Dallas specialty retailer has reopened under new management in the Plaza at Preston Center, about two miles away from its former home.
The shop is owned by Doug Duckworth, who had worked with David Smith, the original Pockets owner, for 36 years, and Andy Weil, who had been with the store for nine years. Smith, who founded the business with his wife Margaret in 1974, sold the name to Duckworth and Weil for “a very good price,” Duckworth said, and is no longer involved.
The Highland Park Village store was closed on May 25 and its lease was sold to Ermenegildo Zegna, which shares the 6,000-square-foot space with Brunello Cucinelli, Duckworth said.
He said with the exception of Zegna, the store carries the same luxury
brands that helped the original Pockets achieve success. This includes Luciano Barbera, Canali, Eton, H. Freeman, Zanella and Incotex in clothing and fur-nishings and Agave, J Brand, Gardeur, Boglioli, Citizens of Humanity, Hamilton
Shirt Co. and John Smedley in sports-wear. One addition is Oxxford clothing, he noted, “but we have the same direc-tion in clothing and sportswear.”
He said after 39 years in the Dallas market, Pockets had “developed a great clientele.” Since the store opened its doors less than two weeks ago, busi-ness has been good as former shoppers visit the new loca-tion. “Before we left, we told them what were planning to do,” Duckworth said.
Since then, the store has been commu-nicating through e-mail and public rela-tions efforts and is also benefiting from word-of-mouth, he said.
The official grand opening is planned for the second week of November.
— JEAN E. PALMIERI
The new store.
by DAVID LIPKE
FRENCH CONTEMPORARY RETAILER Sandro has opened its first Brooklyn outpost, a Williamsburg store that puts a spotlight on its fast-growing men’s business.
Located at 65 North Sixth Street, the 2,100 square-foot unit is situated in a trendy spot that has attracted a cluster of global retailers.
“Williamsburg is a unique mix of art, cul-ture, fashion and cuisine,” said Patrick Valeo, president and chief operating officer of SMCP USA Inc., a unit of Paris-based SMCP Group, which owns the Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot brands. “There is a distinct consumer in Brooklyn that is right for Sandro and we wanted to be part of that scene.”
About 50 percent of the store, which was opened on Oct. 16, is dedicated to men’s wear, compared with the 20 to 30 percent in most Sandro stores. Men’s is merchandised in the front of the store and highlighted in the windows. Sandro men’s wear designer Ilan Chétrite — who is the son of Evelyne Chétrite, cofounder and cre-ative director of the company — was instrumen-tal in choosing the Williamsburg location.
Designed by Bozarthfornell Architecture & Design, the space is fronted by a limestone-and-glass facade and a sleek, minimalist in-terior with terrazzo floors and marble and Scandinavian wood decor elements. The de-sign is a new concept for Sandro that is friend-lier to a men’s aesthetic.
“The Williamsburg man has an intuitive and urban sense of style that easily parallels
the Sandro man,” said Valeo. An opening party will be staged tonight, with a performance by the Cults and an installation by graffiti artist Craig Costello, aka Krink.
American Apparel operates a unit down the street and Gant Rugger next month is slated to open a block away. Urban Outfitters is planning to open a concept shop on North Sixth Street, replete with a restaurant, but the local commu-nity board earlier this month voted against a requested liquor license for the space.
Amazon on Friday opened a 40,000-square-foot photography facility for its fashion divi-sion in the neighborhood.
There are now eight Sandro stores in the U.S., with another six slated to open by yearend: Columbus Circle in New York, Beverly Hills, the Beverly Center in Los Angeles, Palm Beach, Fla., Chicago and the Aventura Mall near Miami.
Outside its own retail network, Sandro operates 27 concession corners in Bloomingdale’s stores. Earlier this spring, it launched its first direct wholesale business in the U.S. with Nordstrom.
In April, private equity firm KKR & Co. ac-quired a 65 percent stake in SMCP Group from L Capital, adding fuel to the company’s global growth. Sandro has opened 80 freestanding stores and in-store concessions around the world this year. Across its other two brands, SMCP has opened about 90 stores and in-store shops, said Valeo.
SMCP’s business model marries accessible luxury with the best practices of the fast-fash-ion world, including short collection cycles, quick reaction to global trends and a sharp focus on optimizing the supply chain.
sandro opens in williamsburg
Cory Booker: B-
TheNewarkmayorandU.S.senator-electfromNewJerseyneedstogetbackintoshapeifhehasPresidentialambitions.TheRockcouldeasilyplayhiminaLifetimemovie.Butwhenitcomestosuitseparateslikedarknavyandblack,theredtiekeepshimfromexecutingachicensemble.
The slip-ons might be more comfortable,
but there’s nothing better than a traditional
lace-up shoe for a powerful man.
Phot
o by
Sha
har
azra
n/W
irei
mag
e
The shaved head exudes masculinity and power. And it’s perfectly egg-shaped.
He must keep a good moisturizing regime since
his face has no wrinkles and he doesn’t look the
Botox type.
Loosening the tie is a classic symbol
of working long, hard hours for
the people. But make sure that
the collar of the shirt stays in
place and you undo the top
button.
The shaved head is power enough. Let go of the red tie and enhance the look of the separates by opting for a navy, textured choice.
The jacket fits him well, although his arms look mysteriously short for someone who is 6 feet, 3 inches. Stand up straighter and push your shoulders back.
Black pants are always a good choice
for slenderization, especially with a
clean break.
Phot
o by
Phot
o by
Ser
gio
Kurh
ajec
w24b003b;8.indd 3 10/23/13 7:48 PM10232013194830
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