R.L...The laser-cut wood parts include many very thin parts; handle carefully. Also, three thicknesses and two types of wood materials are Also, three thicknesses and two types of

R.L.W. McDONALD BROTHERS SAWMILL, SHERBROOKE VILLAGE, NOVA SCOTIA kit #RLW-1650

© 2021 Republic Locomotive Works 1650 – pg. 1

HISTORY:

From the Sherbrooke Village Museum, Nova Scotia website

( https://historicnovascotia.ca/items/show/224 ):

“The first sawmill in the Sherbrooke area was erected around 1809 by

James Fisher, who came from Truro in 1805. In 1814, another

sawmill and a grist mill were set up by David Archibald III, also from

Truro, at the site of present-day Sherbrooke.

The year 1826 marked a unique development in Sherbrooke’s sawmill

industry. William Thompson Archibald, son of David Archibald III,

and Henry Cumminger entered into an agreement to erect a double

mill at the southern end of the village, now part of the Sherbrooke

Village restoration area. With this agreement, the Archibald mill was

relocated to its new home and a second set of machinery was installed

by Henry Cumminger. To supply power for the water wheels, they also

dug a canal, which ran from Sherbrooke lake to St. Mary’s river and

was approximately 260 metres long, 3 metres wide, and nearly 5

metres deep.

By 1856 ownership of the double mill was acquired by the McDonald

Brothers. By 1900, however, the mill was abandoned and allowed to

fall into ruin. For many years, nothing remained of this once active industry except the hand-dug race, which assumed the character of a

natural outlet from Sherbrooke Lake.

In 1970, when restoration work commenced on a part of the village of Sherbrooke, transforming it into a typical 19th century Nova Scotia

community [https://sherbrookevillage.novascotia.ca/] the decision was made to reconstruct a working replica of a water-powered, up-and-

down sawmill on the site of the former McDonald Brothers’ mill.

The sawmill building is a two storey structure with hand-hewn post and beam

construction and board and batten exterior cladding. The roof is covered

with long board shingles with 40-centimetre exposure to the weather. The

lower storey contains the belt and pulley gear for the mill, and provision is

made for a shingle mill and other woodworking equipment. Upstairs is the

log carriage and up-and-down saw with their simple but ingenious

mechanisms…. With a bountiful supply of water from a chain of five lakes,

the reconstructed McDonald Brothers’ Sawmill is believed to be the only one

of its kind in Nova Scotia capable of full waterpower production.”

The Up-Down sawmill (also called “frame sawmill”, “English gate sawmill”,

“upright saw”, or “sash sawmill”) is a mechanical application of its hand-

powered predecessor, the Pit Saw. A crank driven by the waterwheel moves

the saw frame and single saw blade in an up and down motion, cutting into

the log on each downward stroke. The up-ward motion of the saw is also used

to move the log carriage forward by means of a system of levers and a

ratchet. Several minutes are required for each cut through the length of an

average log.

For additional exterior and interior photos, see: https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=1338

GENERAL:

This is a craftsman kit consisting of laser-cut wood and paper, cast urethane resin, white metal, 3D printed acrylic plastic parts, brass wire,

embossed foil, and paper templates. (See “Parts Identification” for images of included parts):

Some resin castings may contain minor flash or small bubble holes. Otherwise, good castings will NOT be rejected for small flaws; it is

assumed the modeler will have the skill to fill these small flaws. Finishing recommendations are included under “WORKING WITH

RESIN CASTINGS” below.

The laser-cut wood parts include many very thin parts; handle carefully. Also, three thicknesses and two types of wood materials are

used for the laser-cut parts: 1/64” (.016”) plywood, 1/32” (.032”) plywood, and 1/16” (.063”) bass wood. The latter is not plywood, and

Reconstructed McDonald Brothers Sawmill, Sherbrooke Village,

Nova Scotia – photo by Marshall Thomson

Interior of reconstructed McDonald Brothers Sawmill,

Sherbrooke Village, Nova Scotia, showing vertical saw and log

carriage – photo by Marshall Thomson

https://historicnovascotia.ca/items/show/224https://sherbrookevillage.novascotia.ca/https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=1338



care must be taken not to break these parts. Finishing recommendations are under “WORKING WITH LASER-CUT WOOD” below.

The 3D printed parts are an acrylic plastic. While strong, these are not as strong nor as flexible as the engineering plastic or styrene you

may be used to working with. Carefully remove parts from attached sprues. Parts should be carefully washed with isopropyl alcohol or

mild dishwashing detergent before painting with acrylic paints.

Every different procedure or method is discussed in detail in the instructions; however, once it has been discussed, it may not be repeated in

detail again.

This kit is not intended for use by novice modelers, or individuals under the age of 18 without the supervision of an adult. Additionally,

the modeler assumes all liability regarding the proper use of this product, or any product suggested. The user must become familiar with

the kit instructions, and instructions on any product used to complete this kit. Please read and follow all safety procedures for all products

used to finish this kit. Details may vary between scales and from the sample model shown.

Follow safety requirements and manufacturer’s requirements as stated on all paint, chemical blackener, and adhesive containers.

WARNING: Pursuant to California Health and Safety Code section 25249.6, the manufacturer and distributor of this product

warns you that this product may contain substances known by the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects and/or

reproductive toxicity.

Tools & Materials:

small drills, including #80, #76, #67 clips for holding parts together – Mueller Electric BU34

flat file - Nicholson 6" Mill Bastard magnification such as Optivisor or Edroy Opticaid

small files - Micro Mark #83180 paint brushes and air-brush

model building knife – Xacto or equal, with #11 blades paints – see detailed instructions

finger-nail clippers or Xuron flush rail cutters Rustall and Weather All (www.rustall.com )

Tweezers and smooth-jawed needle-nose pliers adhesives – 3M 77 Spray Adhesive, CA, 2-part epoxy, Sanding board (make by gluing sandpaper to piece of wood)

Rotary cutter – Olfa, Excel or equal Pliobond, and Titebond wood glue, Pacer Canopy Glue

glues: 3M 77 Spray Adhesive; CA; carpenter’s or “white” glue;

Optional:

Water Wheel and Sound Animation kit (RLW #1651)

logs – Details N Scale

outhouse(s) (RLW-211N – includes parts for two outhouses)

figures

horse-drawn wagons – Musket Miniatures, Langley, Republic Locomotive Works, Preiser

miscellaneous details: tools, etc. – Republic Locomotive Works

miscellaneous scenery materials to complete scene

Order of Assembly

The instructions are arranged as follows:

• Water Wheel & Motor Mount

• Laminations

• Base and Basement Level

• Upper Stories

• Water Wheel Flume

• Roof

• Interior Details

• Ancillary Structures: Drying Shed, East and West Bridges; Sawdust Bin and Conveyor; Sawn Lumber Conveyor

• Finishes (this section will be referenced in above sections as appropriate to assembly sequence.)

• Site: Dam, Bridge Abutments, Log Dump (with terrain suggestions) (NOTE: Instructions for assembly of Water Wheel Animation, and Sound Animation add-on kits are included with those add-on

kits; important aspects of interfacing these add-on kits with the base kit are included in the sections above.)

Orientation

Throughout the instructions reference will be made to the cardinal reference points of the site: north, south east and west. These

references will be included in parts identification on the laser-cut sheets and in the parts list, and are also scribed on part B.39, the

Sawmill Base.

http://www.rustall.com/



Parts Identification

A Parts List is included as a separate document in the kit box. The following diagrams and images are provided to aid in visually

identifying parts.

Laser-Cut Parts Frets: Parts are organized by material and thicknesses, with a letter code designating material and thickness, followed by the part number. The different materials and thicknesses can be identified by the following codes:

A.## 1/16” Basswood C.## 1/64” Plywood E.-## Peel-and-Stick Paper Trim B.## 1/32” Plywood D.## 1/64” Laser Board F.-## Clear Glazing Material

The following images of each of the laser-cut sheets can be used as a way to identify part locations; it does not represent the order of

assembly, and the sizes shown herein are not necessarily reflective of the relative sizes of the actual sheets.

SHEET 1 – 1/16” BASSWOOD

SHEET 2 – 1/32” PLYWOOD




SHEET 8 – LASER BOARD



SHEET 9 – PEEL & STICK PAPER SHEET 10 – CLEAR GLAZING MATERIAL

Resin Castings:

3d Printed Parts: (Note:3D printed parts are supplied joined together as one piece and must be carefully cut apart with a razor saw or

jeweler’s saw.)

Other

Also included are:

0-80 flat-head screws (2 each) Laser-cut roof shingle material

1-72 screws, nuts and washers (2 each) Ladder stock

Brass wire Misc. SS Etched Logging & Sawmill Tools

Cut Lumber Misc. White Metal Detail Castings

Working With Laser-Cut Wood

The laser-cut sheets may look like pieces are missing, but these holes are intentional. The opening for windows, doors, etc., are removed

by the laser to make building this kit easier. These waste pieces, called drop-outs, may still be clinging to the sheet, and fall out when

touched. Save them for use as clutter and scraps when doing the final detailing.

The laser-cut wood parts include many very thin parts - handle carefully. Three thicknesses and two types of wood materials are used for

the laser-cut parts: 1/64” (.016”) plywood, 1/32” (.032”) plywood, and 1/16” (.063”) bass wood. The latter is not plywood, and care

Dam & Spillway Log Dump West Bridge East Bridge Abutment Abutment

Water Wheel

Water Wheel Mount*

(Use if NOT installing motor.)

Water Wheel End Support

Carriage

Winch



must be taken not to break these parts. Remove the pieces from the carrier sheets with a sharp hobby knife as they are needed, and lightly

sand off the remainder of the tabs. On the thicker pieces, there is a slight draft angle caused by the laser. This angle can be removed with a

pass or two of a fine sanding block. Identify all the parts, checking them against the parts list and sheet diagrams. Most wood parts have

a number either on them or nearby. Do not remove the parts from the carrier prior to actually using them in the construction of the model.

Wood and paper products are effectively live materials on which humidity and temperature changes will change the size of parts slightly.

Our climate is moist so you may find minor changes in the proportion of the parts when moved to a dryer climate, so test-fit parts and

adjust if required.

In many cases, assembly requires the lamination of layers of laser-cut wood or laser board. It is important this be done with 3m 77 Spray

Adhesive. After lamination of the batten sheet to the underlying wall sheet, excess material is to be trimmed away using a rotary cutter

such as those made by Olfa, Fisker or Excel. Do NOT use a model knife or similar blade for this as it will displace the battens.

The prototype structure is unpainted wood with the exception of the window sash, frames and trim. It is recommended the model be

assembled first, then airbrushed a base coast of gray followed by dry-brushing to create a weathered wood effect. (See “FINISHES” for

details on finishing.)

Working With Metal Castings

All the metal parts should be handled with care as denting and breakage may occur if they are dropped.. After you have completed the

initial cleanup of parting lines, sprues and flash, wash all the castings in isopropyl alcohol, and allow them to dry. Handle these after

washing by wearing gloves to avoid getting them contaminated with the oils from your hands.

Painting the castings can be accomplished with a brush or airbrush. A good base coat will be created by airbrushing your castings with

Vallejo Acrylico Air NATO Black or Microlux Engine Black (same paint – different packaging.) Choose relatively dull colors for your

castings. Models tend to look more realistic using shades such as Mud, Grimy Black, etc. by Floquil, or similar dull shades. Rarely

should you consider using bright colors in model scenes.

Working With Resin Castings

Some resin castings may contain minor flash or small bubble holes. There may be small bubbles inside recesses. Otherwise good castings

will NOT be rejected for small flaws; it is assumed the modeler will have the skill to fix these small flaws. Wash resin castings with soap

and water or isopropyl alcohol prior to painting. Glue resin castings to laser-cut ply base with CA adhesive or two-part epoxy. Urethane

parts may be sanded and filed easily, but the dust should not be inhaled! Urethane resin parts may be airbrushed with acrylic paints. It

is recommended that all the resin castings be sprayed with an undercoat of flat black acrylic modeler’s paint ( Vallejo NATO Black.)

Working With 3d Printed Parts

The 3D printed parts are an acrylic plastic. While strong, these are not as strong nor as flexible as the engineering plastic or styrene you

may be used to working with. Carefully remove parts from attached sprues. Parts should be carefully washed with isopropyl alcohol

before painting. For fragile parts such as the log carriage lightly coat the thinnest parts of the 3D printed part with a low viscosity CA

adhesive to strengthen the part. Examine the drawings, and drill holes where required. Glue 3D printed parts together with CA adhesive.

It is recommended that all the 3D parts be sprayed with an undercoat of flat black acrylic modeler’s paint such as Vallejo NATO Black.

These parts can have undercuts and recesses, so be sure the spray penetrates all areas. Working With Peel-and-Stick Materials Included in the kit are sheets of laser-cut peel-and-stick material for roofing shingles and window trim. Window trim should only be

applied after the exterior painting and weathering has thoroughly dried. The small window trim pieces are best lifted from the carrier

sheet and transferred to the model with the tip of a modeling knife before being burnished to the model surface. Working With Site And Building Bases

The kit is designed to facilitate the assembly of the separate structures on a wood base prior to installing on the layout. This base is thin

laser-cut plywood. Plan the location of the sawmill in advance, and – if desired – add mounting flanges or framing to bottom of laser-cut

plywood base to facilitate incorporating the model into the layout. ALSO, the laser-cut base only extends the width of the exposed face of

the dam and does NOT extend to the limits required for the drying shed on the west, the bank and stairs up from the bridge to the east, nor

the log pond on the north. A SITE PLAN is included in the “SITE” Section. You may wish to mount the laser-cut base on a larger sub-

base to incorporate additional “terrain” to support these features or add them to the scene after the main sawmill and dam are incorporated

into your layout.



ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

WATER WHEEL & MOTOR MOUNT

Assemble parts A.01.3, A.01.4, and A.01.5(2) as shown below using Titebond glue or “carpenter’s glue”. If NOT installing the

motorized water wheel animation kit, install the Water Wheel Mount after washing with isopropyl alcohol (see WORKING WITH 3D

PRINTED PARTS) and taping for 0-80 screws using the two 0-80 flat-head screws provided.

Assure hole in Water Wheel is clean – if necessary, swab out with isopropyl alcohol

with a pipe cleaner. Test fit water wheel to mount. DO NOT FORCE WHEEL

ONTO SHAFT OR YOU WILL BREAK SHAFT OF WHEEL. If necessary,

carefully scrape out any residue from the printing process inside the shaft hole and

try again, repeating if necessary. Fit should be a smooth slip fit. Slip Water Wheel

onto shaft but do not glue in place.

Glue part A.01.1 to

base B.39 aligned

with the guidelines

on B.39 using

spray adhesive or Titebond glue. (If using Titebond glue, place a flat

weight on top and allow to dry overnight.) Place 1-72 nuts in the

hexagonal holes in part A.01.1, and glue part A.01.2 on top aligning

the holes with the nuts visually or using a round toothpick; do not get

glue into the threads of the nuts.

Test fit Water Wheel & Motor Mount to base with two 1-72 screws

and washers through slots into nuts in base. If glue has gotten into

threads, chase with a 1-72 tap. Check to see if screws protrude from

bottom of base, and file if necessary.

If installing the motorized Water Wheel and Sound Animation add-on

kit (RLW #1651) follow the instructions included with the geared motor for installing the water wheel, motor and wiring.



LAMINATIONS

The building exterior walls and roof are of laminated construction. The walls consist of an outer layer of battens over a layer of siding with exterior scribing and

upper window sash, an interior layer of siding including the interior board scribing,

and a layer of interior post-and-beam framing (not installed as part of this step.). The main sawmill roof pieces include an interior face with planking scribing, and

an exterior face with scribed guidelines for the installation of the peel-and-stick roofing shingles.

Tabs with holes are included at the top corners of the different wall layers to

facilitate the alignment of these different layers. Using a piece of pine or other soft

wood and one each of the long (east and west) and short (north and south) walls,

press straight pins through the two tabs at the top corners of the wall and cut the

heads off the pins. This will allow the accurate alignment of layers as laminated.

Remove part C.01 from the Sheet 6 fret and using a sharp modeling knife cut the

tabs and remove any remaining window and door drop-outs. Place C.01 over the

pins. Remove battens D.01 from Sheet 8 and remove any remaining hanging drop-

outs. Holding batten sheet D.01 by one of the corners using tweezers or other

clamping device, spray the back uniformly with 3M 77 Spray Adhesive (suggest

using a disposable carboard sheet or cardboard box in an area with ventilation) then

drop D.01 onto C.01 using the pins for alignment. Press D.01 into C.01; a small

roller such as used for linoleum block printing or even a small cylindrical glass

bottle such as a paint bottle is useful for this. If battens at the corners drop off

either during this operation or later during assembly, extra battens are provided

which can be installed after the walls

are assembled to each other.

OPTIONAL: Turn wall assembly

over and glue interior wall surface in

place with 3M 77 Spray Adhesive.

Otherwise, install after trimming

battens aligning window openings.

(See parts numbers for interior sides

to be laminated to exterior parts in

following paragraphs.)

Remove laminated wall assembly

and trim excess batten layer away

with rotary cutter. (Do not use

modeling knife across battens or you

will displace the battens.) Repeat,

laminating part D.02 onto part C.02;

part D.03 onto part C.03; part D.04

onto part C.04; part D.05 onto part

B.01; part D.06 onto part B.04.

Interior side: using spray adhesive,

laminate part C.02 to part C.05; part

C.06 to part C.01; C.07 to part C.0;

and part C.08 to part C.04.

Using spray adhesive, laminate roof

parts B.34 to part B.37 and part B.36

to part B.35.

Alignment jig for laminating wall layers: top,

exterior wall placed over alignment pins; bottom,

exterior battens applied using spray adhesive and

pressure.

Trimming excess batten layer: trim tabs with

alignment holes with modeling knife, then trim

excess battens layer with rotary cutter (do not use

modeling knife on battens).

Laminating interior wall surface to exterior; can be done with alignment pins or trim off

tabs and align using widow openings as a

guide.



BASE AND BASEMENT LEVEL

Use Titebond glue to glue parts B.01 (east), B.02 (west), B.03 (north) and B.04 (south) to base B.39, fitting tabs into slots in base. Use

clamps to hold walls square to each other if required.

After glue sets, add interior (core) basement walls A.03 (east), A.04 (west), A.05 (north) and A.06 (south). Use clips to hold these core

walls tight to exterior walls while the glue cures. If installing the Water Wheel and Sound Animation kit (RLW #1651), insert one speaker

behind holes in east basement wall, then glue part A.02 to back of north wall to act as stop for holding speaker in place.

Glue parts A.10 and A.11 in place to inside of basement walls and add part B.39, the partial basement floor , to the south end of the

basement interior, with the walkway extending through the doorway.

UPPER STORIES

Use Titebond glue to glue the second floor, part B.10 to the west wall laminate (parts C.02 + C.05) using a square to assure the parts

are perpendicular. (Photos next page.) After glue dries, add north, south and east wall laminates to the floor. Use clamps to hold

walls square to each other if required. After assembly, check corner battens and if any have been lost during assembly, add new

battens from parts provided. Test fit upper part of building to basement and base.

Left: basement walls fitted to base; center – interior “core” walls glued in place to inside face of basement exterior walls (back of

water wheel flume being test-fitted in right image.); right - Partial basement floor and supports.

Left - West exterior wall laminate fitted to second floor; center and right – test fitting upper floors to basement level.

Install East and West interior post-and-beam

framing (parts B.17 and B.18) with Titebond glue

– hold tight to outer walls with clips as necessary.

After glue dries, install North and South interior

post-and-beam framing (parts B.19 and B.20)

then tie beams B.21.

Bevel top and bottom edges of part B.09.02 and

install as shown along with B.09.3.



Glue part A.07 to the inside of the west wall tight to the floor above to act as a stop

when the upper floors are placed over the basement level.

Glue parts A.08 and A.09 on the exterior under doors #6 and #7 as ledgers for supporting

the bridges.

Doors & Windows:

The doors are composed of a scribed siding component or left (L) and right (R) components on Sheet 6 and a cross brace component

(B) on Sheet 8. Each door opening and each door is numbered on both the laser-cut fret and on page 5 of these instructions, and the

opening number is linked to a door and bracing number as follows:

Opening no. Door part no. Brace part no.

1 C.10.L/C.10.R C.13.LB/C.13.RB

2 C.11.L/C.11.R C.14.LB/C.14.RB

3 C.12.L/C.12.R C.15.LB/C.15.RB

4 C.13 C.16.B

5 C.14 C.17.B

6 C.15 C.18.B

Glue the appropriate brace to the corresponding door, then glue the door in place using Pliobond for a flexible joint along the hinged

edge, leaving door in the open position. See finished model photos for doors opening out vs. doors opening inward.

Window painting, glazing & installation is covered in the “FINISHES” section.

Door #6 Door #5 Door #2 Door #3 Doors #1 & #4

(Note braces C.18 & C.19)



WATER WHEEL FLUME or RACEWAY (also called a PENSTOCK)

Assemble the west side of the Water Wheel Flume (B.05 – Raceway West) to the bypass part B.09.1 while test-fitting to the east wall (A

below). Then add the south end frame B.06.2 (B below). Glue in place to the base and the east wall of the sawmill. Laminate t he Flume

Framing (B.08) to the Raceway East (C.18) then glue to the base and the installed Raceway West (D below). Add raceway framing

C.06.1 through C.06.10 and raceway side B.07 (E below). Note that the raceway necks down at the outlet where B.07 is located. Finally,

add decking C.20 to the top of the raceway (F below).

After installing the water wheel flume/raceway, removal and

reinstallation of the upper portion of the building must be done

on a slight angle; see picture at right.

Water wheel flume/raceway assembly sequence.

It is recommended that at this point the exterior of the sawmill

as well as the water wheel flume be painted and receive initial

weathering; see “FINISHES” section of these instructions.



SAWMILL ROOF

The Sawmill Roof is composed of laminated top (B.36 and B.37) and bottom (B.34 and B.35) pieces to be then assembled on the roof

rafters/trusses (B.22). The top and bottom for the west side and east side are identified on the laser-cut fret. The ridge (top edge) is also

identified and notched to mate with the opposite side. Use spray adhesive for laminating the top and bottom sheets. After assembly, use

a modeling knife to cut a bevel in the “downhill” side of the locating slots. (See photo sequence below.)

When roof is assembled, apply peel-and-stick roof shingles. The top of the laser-cut roof panels is scribed with guidelines. THESE ARE

NOT FOR SPACING THE SHINGLE STRIPS – they are to help keep each strip parallel to the ridge of the roof. Use the notches in the

shingle strip defining each shingle as a guide to the overlap (or “exposure”) of each shingle strip. (See image below.) With shingles in

place, add eave and rake trim (D.09 and D.10)

The section on “FINISHES” will cover the painting weathering of the roof shingles.

INTERIOR DETAILS

The following items are included for the interior of the sawmill second floor:

• Log Carriage (3D print)

• Log Carriage support (part B.26) • Winch - sometimes called a “Pull Wheel” - (3D print)

• Log Deck, comprised of parts B.33 and deck C.20 • Saw Frame, comprised of parts B.24, B.25 and B.25.1

• Saw blade on Sheet 10

• Misc. logs, white metal castings and etched tools

This section will cover the components above which are fixed to the structure (as

noted in the image to the right); the modeler can determine the extent to which the

miscellaneous items are used and where they are placed to complete the simulation of

an operating sawmill.

Upper and lower surfaces east roof Gluing roof trusses and end locators in place Cutting bevel in roof locating slots



The log carriage and winch are 3D printed plastic. Carefully wash these parts

as described in “Working With 3d Printed Parts”. Chase holes as required

and glue in .010” brass wire for the control levers and the shaft for the blocks

as shown at right. Airbrush or brush paint these parts with your choice of

color – the current color at the Museum is red.

When dry, cut two .010” wide

by 2” long strips of typing

paper, paint the paper on both

sides Vallejo Air 71.027 Light

Brown and wrap a strip around

the pulley on both the saw

carriage and winch securing

with some CA adhesive and

gluing the free ends of the strips

together.

Test fit the log carriage in place between the vertical legs of B.25 and with the pulley and belt

sticking down through the opening in the floor. If necessary, trim material away from the

opening. When satisfied with the placement, secure with a drop of CA applied with a pin to the

joint between the carriage and the carriage support frame.

Glue the carriage support frame for the saw carriage (B.26) in place on the second floor, aligning the slot for the saw in the floor with the

slot in the support frame. Glue the frame supporting the log deck (B.33) in place aligned with Door #1 and opposite the northern half of the

carriage support frame. Glue the log deck (C.20) to the top of this frame. Locate the winch with the pulley and belt sticking down through

the opening in the floor and glue in place.

Add parts B.24, B.25 (“Fender Posts”) and B.25.1 (“Saw Gate”) as

shown on previous page, gluing B.24 to the bottom of the previously

installed tie beams (B.21) making sure the slot in the Saw Gate (B.25.1)

is above the slot in the floor and the carriage support frame. Remove the

laser-cut saw blade from Sheet 10, paint silver or aluminum, and – when

dry -slide down through the slots in the Saw Gate, the carriage support

frame and the floor before gluing with a small drop of glue where it fits

into the Saw Gate (B25.1) (Optional: use one of the etched stainless steel

two-man saws from the tools fret.)

Several pieces of 12” – 18” diameter logs (typical sizes for this sawmill)

are included in the kit. Cut to about 20’ lengths and add to the log deck

and the ramp from the millpond. Using a modeling knife or razor say,

slice one of the logs lengthwise and place on the log carriage. Optional: if

desired, fabricate dogs from brass wire to simulate the dogs that would

hold the log against the blocks (holes are provided in the blocks for

these).

Additional detailing: Paint and add white metal castings as desired. Add

sawdust and strip-wood simulating cut lumber.

For additional equipment (Edger, Cutoff Saw, etc.) you wish to install at

this level, see:

https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/showPage.php?page=1

https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/showPage.php?page=1



ANCILLARY STRUCTURES

Besides the main sawmill structure, the complex has the following structures which are included in this kit:

• Drying Shed

• West Bridge

• East Bridge

• Sawdust Bin

• Sawdust Conveyor

• Sawn Lumber Conveyor (Not included is the modern ADA-accessible restroom building.)

Drying Shed:

Glue siding C.27 and C.28 to the two (2) B.29 post-and-beam/rafter

parts. Glue post-and-beam/rafter parts B.29 into holes at left and right

ends of the Drying Shed base B.40 then glue four (4) parts B.30 into

intermediate holes in B.40. Glue two (2) parts B.32 across long sides

of the drying shed keyed into the notches at the top edges of the B.29

and B.30 parts. Glue siding C.29 across back wall. After glue dries,

glue four (4) B.31 girts between posts along back wall at the base of

the siding. At this point, it is recommended basic painting and

weathering be performed before installing roof panels. (See

“FINISHES”) When basic painting and weathering is completed, glue

two (2) roof parts B.38, then add peel-and-stick shingles and rake and

eave trim parts D.11 and D.12.

East Bridge:

Glue truss B.11.1 to C.22.N and truss B.11.2 to C.22.S noting the orientation of the railing parts with respect to the building. Add cross beams

B.12, making sure the two pieces not including a vertical element are centered on the truss. Glue the decking to one half of the bridge at a

time using clips to hold everything solidly together, then trim ends of railing parts back to scribed line.

Installing post-and-beam framing on base Installing siding on rear wall; hold with clips Girts B.31 installed along base of rear wall

Finished Drying Shed after painting and weathering. (See “FINISHES”)

Primary trusses and cross framing to railings Gluing one side to deck; hold with clips Completed bridge (See “FINISHES” for painting)



West Bridge:

Glue beams B.13.1 and B.13.2 to C.23, using West Bridge Abutment resin casting to

check spacing; tabs on bottom of beams fit into slots on the top of the abutment. Glue

railings C.24 to either side of the bridge between the tab that engages the abutment and

the east end of the bridge deck (see image to right). Do not glue bridge to either abutment

or building.

Sawdust Bin:

Glue the post-and-beam

frames B.27 (2) to base B.41,

with scribing at knee braces

facing inwards, then add

siding pieces C.16 (2) and

C.17 (2). Glue top conveyor

support B.28 to top.

Sawdust Conveyor The sawdust conveyor runs from the square opening on the

west side of the lower level up to the top of the sawdust bin. The final length of the conveyor and the location

along the length of the conveyor of the support legs is dependent upon how the modeler constructs the slope and

the flat area where the bin is located. Glue parts C.25 (2) to the conveyor B.15 flaring the sides out about 20-30̊ Turn

over and glue parts B-16 in place; these have extended legs which need to be cut to fit your final slope. See “SITE” for

locating and installing this structure.

Roller Conveyor

NOTE: The roller conveyor runs from Door #4 opening on the west side of the upper level to the adjacent flat area. The final length of the

conveyor and the location is dependent upon how the modeler constructs the slope and the flat area where it ends. (The horizontal parts are extra length and an extra frame (B.14.4) is provided for long installations.) Ream holes then install brass wire, using B.14.1 to space the frames. Glue

with CA then trim flush. Assemble the remaining parts using Titebond glue. Support using B.14.5 (and B.14.6 if required.)

Finished West Bridge after painting and

weathering. (See “FINISHES”)

Sawdust Bin

NOTE: The Sawdust Conveyor & Roller Conveyor fit between

the west wall of the sawmill and top of the adjacent bank. It is

recommended you NOT assemble these until you have

completed the basic terrain (see “Site”) then build to suit the

length required.



FINISHES

Building walls:

Airbrush exterior walls, bridge framing, sawdust bin, and conveyors with a base

coat of light gray (Vallejo Air Light Gray 71.050) then drybrush with an assortment

of colors to simulate weathered unpainted wood; recommended paints:

• Vallejo Air NATO Black 71.251

• Vallejo Air Mud Brown 71.037

• Vallejo Air Light Brown 71.027

• Vallejo Air Sand 71.075

Windows:

After weathering the exterior walls paint windows sash Vallejo Air

Aged White 71.132 inside and out, and also paint the window frame

(opening edges.) Paint the lower sash included on Sheet 8 with

Vallejo Air Aged White 71.132 on both sides. Add glazing using

one of two options: (1) laser-cut clear plastic is provided which can

be glued to pre-painted sash with Pacer Canopy Glue; (2) use

Microscale Micro Krystal Klear or Pacer Canopy Glue liquid to

form thin film glazing. When glazing has dried, glue lower sash in

the window openings from the interior in closed, open or partially

open positions to suit.

Roofs:

After shingles have been applied, airbrush with Vallejo NATO

Black, and when dry, drybrush with:

• Vallejo Air Light Gray 71.050


• Vallejo Air Aged White 71.132


Bridge Abutments:

After washing and drying resin castings, airbrush with a basecoat

of Vallejo NATO Black, and when dry, drybrush with Vallejo

Air Light Gray 71.050. When dry, use a fine brush to pick out

individual stones with:



• Vallejo Air Sand 71.132

Log Dump and Dam:

After washing and drying resin castings, airbrush with a basecoat of Vallejo NATO Black,

and when dry, drybrush with Vallejo Air Mud Brown 71.037 followed by dry brushing

highlights of:


• Vallejo Air Aged White 71.132


• Vallejo Air Sand 71.132 Drybrush sloping wood top of dam with Vallejo Air Light Gray 71.050.

Water Wheel:

After washing and drying resin castings, airbrush with a basecoat of Vallejo NATO Black, and when dry, drybrush with Vallejo Air Mud

Brown 71.037. (Wheel stays relatively dark because it is always wet.)

Wood siding weathered with acrylic paints; left –

window sash and painted window frame interior; right –

white peel-and-stick window trim burnished in place.

Window glazing: left - applying Microscale Micro Krystal Klear to back of

lower sash by swiping across the fret with a toothpick dipped in glazing

liquid; right – glue lower sash in place from inside structure.

Finished peel-and-stick roofing shingles: left – Vallejo Air NATO Black

undercoat; right – after dry-brushing with various colors.

Water Wheel with base coat of NATO Black



SITE

The McDonald Brothers Sawmill is located on a cove along the St. Mary’s River in Nova Scotia (see satellite image on left, below.) The site

plan on the right below shows the prototype arrangement of the historic sawmill structures included in this model, with an outline of part B.39.

Dam & Spillway

The dam is a resin casting. Wash

the casting with isopropyl alcohol

(see “Working with Resin

Castings”.) Airbrush the casting

with a base coat of Vallejo Air

NATO Black. When dry, drybrush

with various browns and grays to

simulate weathered logs and

planking (See “FINISHES”.)

When paint has dried epoxy the

dam in place on the base B.39

taking care as sliding the casting in

place under the water wheel flume.

Bridge Abutments

After washing East and West Bridge

Abutment resin castings (see “Working with

Resin Castings”) airbrush with Vallejo

NATO Black, followed by stonework finish

coats (see “FINISHES) then epoxy in place

on base B.39.

Log Dump

After washing the Log Dump resin casting (see “Working with Resin Castings”) airbrush with

Vallejo NATO Black, then paint and dry brush to simulate logs and loose bark on dirt. (See

Finishes”.) Suggestions on how to blend the resin base around the logs into the adjacent scenery are

in the “Terrain” portion of this section.

Left- paint and lightly weather dam before installation; right – slip dam under flume and epoxy to base B.39.

Left- painted bridge abutments; center & right – abutments glued in place.

The existing McDonald Brothers Sawmill reconstruction site (minus the modern ADA-accessible restrooms)

McDonald Brothers Sawmill reconstruction is located at Sherbrooke Village Museum 4037

Sonora Rd, Sherbrooke, NS B0J 3C0, Canada



Terrain

The prototype sawmill building is located in a swale below the dam on the outlet stream

or “race” which connects to Mill Cove. The bridges and conveyors connect the different

levels of the building to the tops of the adjacent slopes of the swales. The flat site at the

top of the west slope (left in the photo) includes the Drying Shed and Sawdust Bin as

well as access to the Log Dump, Roller Conveyor and the West Bridge. The modeler

will need an area larger than base B.39 to model these features. It is recommended the

base be glued to a larger piece of plywood, MDF or hardboard for this purpose, the size

of which will be determined by the available space on the layout. It is recommended a

minimum space of 10” x 12” be allocated for this. Note that if rail access is to be

included, this size should be adjusted accordingly, as should the orientation of the Log

Dump and the Drying Shed which could potentially be served by the same track.

The photos below show construction of adjacent terrain using polystyrene insulation board and tinted spackle, the placement of structures, water

simulation and the addition of landscape elements - static grass, shrubs and trees. After terrain surface is faired in, test fit Sawdust Conveyor and

Roller Conveyor and cut supporting timbers to length.

For assistance in assembly or interpretation of instructions, contact:

[email protected]

For all other enquiries: Republic Locomotive Works

16 Little Cape Horn, Cathlamet, WA. 98612

360-577-6479

21.02.05

South side of sawmill showing swale with outlet from mill pond on right and slope up to Sawdust Bin

and Drying Shed on left.

Terrain roughed in with 1” foam insulation Terrain faired in with pre-tinted spackle; Scenery using static grass, foliage, rocks, gloss

Cut to fit around bridge abutments and dam; bases for Log Dump, Sawdust Bin, Drying gel medium (figures not included in kit.)

1/8” hardboard mill pond surface Shed cut into spackle surface then glued down
mailto:[email protected]

Documents

R.L...The laser-cut wood parts include many very thin parts; handle carefully. Also, three thicknesses and two types of wood materials are Also, three thicknesses and two types of