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Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Rome
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Abigail Blasi, Duncan Garwood
Contents
Welcome to Rome .......... 4
Rome’s Top 10 ................ 6
What’s New ....................13
Need to Know ................14
First Time Rome ............16
Top Itineraries ...............18
If You Like... ...................20
Month by Month ........... 22
With Kids ....................... 24
Like a Local ................... 26
For Free ......................... 27
Eating ...........................28Drinking & Nightlife...36Entertainment ........... 40Shopping ..................... 44
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Rome 223
Survival Guide 265
Rome Maps 297
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Rome 46
Transport ....................266
Directory A–Z ............. 272
Language ....................278
Index ............................287
Rome Today ................224
History .........................226
The Arts.......................239
Architecture ................250
The Roman Way of Life ...................262
Ancient Rome ...............50
Centro Storico .............. 70
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ..............98
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati .......................... 120
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............ 140
Trastevere & Gianicolo .................. 158
San Giovanni & Testaccio .................. 171
Villa Borghese & Northern Rome ........181
Southern Rome .......... 193
Day Trips from Rome ................ 205
Sleeping .....................214
Contents
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CentroStorico
p70
Monti, Esquilino &San Lorenzo
p140
Vatican City,Borgo & Prati
p120
AncientRomep50
Villa Borghese &Northern Rome
p181
Trastevere &Gianicolo
p158
Tridente, Trevi &the Quirinale
p98
San Giovanni& Testaccio
p171
SouthernRomep193
(left) Via del Boschetto p154 One of Monti’s best shopping streets.
(above) Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore p143 Stained-glass window.
(right) A gelateria store display p33
Colosseum (p52)
1 No photograph can prepare you for the thrill of seeing the Colosseum for the first
time. For 2000 years this muscular arena has stood as the symbol of Roman power, as the striking embodiment of the terrible awe that Rome once inspired, and it’s looking more splendid than ever following a recent restoration. As you climb its steeply stacked stands, try to imagine them full of spectators screaming for blood – a chilling thought.
1 Ancient Rome
Museo e Galleria Borghese (p183)
2 Everybody’s heard of Michelangelo and the Sistine Chapel, but Rome is as much
about baroque art as it is the Renaissance, and the Museo e Galleria Borghese is the place to see it. You’ll need to book ahead but it’s a small price to pay to see Bernini’s amazing baroque sculptures, as well as works by Canova, Cara-vaggio, Raphael and Titian. And afterwards, the surrounding Villa Borghese park is the perfect place to digest what you’ve just seen. RIGHT: BERNINI’S RATTO DI PROSERPINA (RAPE OF PROSERPINA)
1 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome
Rome’s
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Pantheon (p72)
3 The best preserved of Rome’s ancient monuments, the Pantheon is a truly
remarkable building. Its huge columned portico and thick-set walls impress, but it’s only when you get inside that you get the full measure of the place. It’s vast, and you’ll feel very small as you look up at the record-breaking dome soaring above your head. Adding to the effect are the shafts of light that stream in through the central oculus (the circular opening at the dome’s apex), illuminating the royal tombs set into the circular marble-clad walls.
1 Centro Storico
Vatican Museums (p126)
4 Rome boasts many artistic highlights, but few are as overpowering as Mi-
chelangelo’s frescoes in the Sistine Chap-el. A kaleidoscopic barrage of colours and images, they come as the grand finale of the Vatican Museums, Rome’s largest and most popular art museum. Inside the vast complex, kilometre upon kilometre of cor-ridors are lined with classical sculptures, paintings and tapestries as they lead inexorably towards the Raphael Rooms, a suite of four rooms brilliantly frescoed by Raphael, and, beyond that, the Sistine Chapel. RIGHT: GALLERY OF MAPS
1 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
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P 10
St Peter’s Basilica (p122)
5 You don’t have to be a be-liever to be bowled over
by St Peter’s Basilica, Rome’s largest and most spectacular church. Every thing about the place is astonishing, from the sweeping piazza that an-nounces it to the grandiose facade and unbelievably opulent interior. Topping everything is Michelangelo’s extraordinary dome, a mould- breaking masterpiece of Renaissance architecture and one of Rome’s landmark sights. This is a building that was designed to inspire awe, and even in a city of churches like Rome it stands head and shoulders above everything else.
1 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
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Via Appia Antica (p195)
6 The most famous of Rome’s ancient roads,
and one of the city’s most sought-after addresses, the Appian Way is a gorgeous place to be on a clear, sunny morning. Running through lush green fields and littered with piles of greying ruins, it’s the very picture of pastoral Italian beauty. But the bucolic scenery belies the road’s bloodstained history. It was here that Spartacus and 6000 of his slave army were crucified, and it was here that the early Chris-tians buried their dead in the catacombs.
1 Southern Rome
Capitoline Museums (p61)
7 In ancient times, the Campidoglio (Capi-
toline Hill) was home to Rome’s two most impor-tant temples. Nowadays, the main reason to make the short, steep climb to the top is to admire the views and visit the Capito-line Museums on Piazza del Campidoglio. The world’s oldest public museums harbour some fantastic classical statuary, including the celebrated Lupa Capi-tolina (Capitoline Wolf), an icon of early Etruscan art, and some really wonderful paintings. And make sure you bring your camera for the masonry littered around the entrance courtyard. RIGHT: STATUE OF
CONSTANTINE
1 Ancient Rome
An Evening in Trastevere (p163)
8 One of the great joys of Rome is eating and
drinking well, especially in summer when it’s warm enough to dine al fresco, and the city’s animated streets are packed until the early hours. And nowhere is better for a night out than the picture-perfect neighbourhood of Traste-vere. Over the river from the historic centre, its medieval lanes, hidden piazzas and pastel-hued palazzi (mansions) harbour hundreds of bars, cafes, trattorias and restaurants catering to a nightly crowd of up-for-it Romans and besotted visitors.
5 Trastevere & Gianicolo
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Trevi Fountain (p102)
9 A stop at Rome’s largest and most famous fountain is a traditional rite
of passage for visitors to Rome. Every day crowds gather to toss coins into the foun-tain’s water and ensure that one day they’ll return to the Eternal City. The fountain, designed by Nicola Salvi in the 18th century, is a gloriously over-the-top rococo affair depicting wild horses, mythical figures and cascading rock falls. After a lengthy restora-tion, unveiled in 2015, it’s looking particu-larly splendid, and is most spellbinding when illuminated after night falls.
1 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale
Roman Forum & Palatine (p57)
10 To walk through the tumbledown ruins of the Roman Forum is to retrace the footsteps of the great figures of Roman history, such as Julius Caesar and
Pompey. However broken the remains, it’s a stirring experience to stand at the heart of the Roman Empire. Nearby, the Palatino (Palatine Hill), a green expanse of evocative ruins, is where it all began, where Romulus supposedly killed Remus and founded the city in 753 BC, and where the ancient Roman emperors lived in unimaginable luxury.
1 Ancient Rome
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P 10
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Tube station
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Rome Maps
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 297
PONTE
TRASTEVERE
CAMPOMARZIO
REGOLA
VILLABORGHESE
GIANICOLO
AVENTINO
VATICAN CITY(CITTÀ DELVATICANO) TIBURTINO
CELIO
PRATI
ESQUILINO
GIANCOLENSE
TRIONFALE
TUSCOLANO
SALARIO
PARIOLI
MONTEVERDE
FLAMINIO
GARBATELLA
OSTIENSE
COLONNA
SANPAOLO
TREVI
MONTI
TRIESTE
APPIO-LATINO
TRIDENTE
PARIONEPIGNA
CAMPITELLI
TESTACCIO
BORGO
SAN LORENZO
SALLUSTIANO
SAN GIOVANNI
Tiber RiverMarrana della Caffarella
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0 2 km0 1 mile#e
MAP INDEX1 Ancient Rome (p300)
2 Centro Storico North (p304)
3 Centro Storico South (p306)
4 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale (p308)
5 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati (p312)
6 San Giovanni & Testaccio (p314)
7 Trastevere & Gianicolo (p316)
8 San Lorenzo (p319)
9 Monti & Esquilino (p320)
10 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome (p324)
11 Southern Rome (p326)
298
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PONTE
TRASTEVERE
CAMPOMARZIO
REGOLA
VILLABORGHESE
GIANICOLO
AVENTINO
VATICAN CITY(CITTÀ DELVATICANO) TIBURTINO
CELIO
PRATI
ESQUILINO
GIANCOLENSE
TRIONFALE
TUSCOLANO
SALARIO
PARIOLI
MONTEVERDE
FLAMINIO
GARBATELLA
OSTIENSE
COLONNA
SANPAOLO
TREVI
MONTI
TRIESTE
APPIO-LATINO
TRIDENTE
PARIONEPIGNA
CAMPITELLI
TESTACCIO
BORGO
SAN LORENZO
SALLUSTIANO
SAN GIOVANNI
Tiber RiverMarrana della Caffarella
Ð"8Ð"1
Ð"9
Ð"2
Ð"3
Ð"4
Ð"6
Ð"11
Ð"7
Ð"5
Ð"10
0 2 km0 1 mile#e
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CEN
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CENTRO STORICO NORTH Map on p304
æ Top Sights (p72) 36 Palazzo di Montecitorio ............................. G3 1 Chiesa del Gesù ......................................... G6 37 Palazzo Farnese ......................................... D7 2 Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi ...............E4 38 Palazzo Madama ........................................ E4 3 Galleria Doria Pamphilj...............................H5 39 Palazzo Pamphilj ........................................ D5 4 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo 40 Palazzo Spada ............................................ D7 Altemps..................................................... E3 41 Pasquino...................................................... D5 5 Pantheon...................................................... F4 42 Piazza Colonna ...........................................H3 6 Piazza Navona.............................................E4 43 Piazza di Pietra ...........................................G4 44 Piè di Marmo ............................................... G5 æ Sights (p75) 45 Stadio di Domiziano ................................... D3 7 Arco degli Acetari .......................................D6 46 Tempio di Adriano ......................................G4 8 Arco Farnese ...............................................C7 47 Torre dell'Orologio .....................................C4 9 Area Sacra ................................................... F6 48 Via dei Coronari .......................................... C3 10 Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra 49 Via del Governo Vecchio ........................... D5 Minerva .....................................................G5 50 Via Giulia ...................................................... B6 11 Campo de' Fiori ...........................................D6
12 Cat Sanctuary ............................................. F7 ú Eating (p83) 13 Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista dei 51 Alfredo e Ada .............................................. B4 Fiorentini ...................................................A4 52 Armando al Pantheon ................................ F4 14 Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Lucina ............... G1 53 Baguetteria del Fico ...................................D4 15 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace & 54 Bar del Fico.................................................. C4 Chiostro del Bramante............................D4 55 Campo de' Fiori........................................... D6 16 Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone ...............D4 56 Casa Bleve................................................... E5 17 Chiesa di Sant'Agostino............................. E3 57 Casa Coppelle ..............................................F3 18 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea della Valle .............E6 Chiostro del Bramante Caffè ........... (see 15) 19 Chiesa di Sant'Eligio degli Orefici .............B6 58 Ciao Checca .................................................F2 20 Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola .............. H4 59 Cul de Sac.................................................... D5 21 Chiesa di Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza ............... E5 60 Da Francesco .............................................. C4 22 Chiesa Nuova ..............................................C5 61 Da Tonino .................................................... C4 23 Colonna di Marco Aurelio ......................... H3 62 Dal Cavalier Gino ........................................G2 24 Elefantino.....................................................G5 63 Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara....................E7 25 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi......................... E4 64 Ditirambo..................................................... D6 26 Fontana del Moro........................................ E5 65 Enoteca Corsi..............................................G6 27 Fontana del Nettuno...................................E4 66 Fiocco di Neve............................................. F4 28 Largo di Torre Argentina ........................... F6 67 Forno di Campo de' Fiori ........................... D6 29 Museo Barracco di Scultura Antica .........D6 68 Forno Roscioli ..............................................E7 30 Museo Criminologico .................................B5 69 Gelateria del Teatro ................................... C3 31 Museo di Roma ...........................................D5 70 Giolitti............................................................F3 32 Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta 71 Grappolo D'Oro........................................... D6 Balbi...........................................................G7 72 Green T ........................................................ G5 33 Obelisk..........................................................G3 73 I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza.......................... D7 34 Palazzo Chigi .............................................. H3 74 La Campana ................................................ E2 35 Palazzo della Cancelleria ...........................D6 75 La Ciambella ............................................... F6
302
CENTRO
STORICO
NO
RTH 76 La Focaccia..................................................D4 113 Arsenale....................................................... D6 77 La Rosetta.................................................... F4 114 Bartolucci ....................................................G4 78 Lilli .................................................................D3 115 Bottega Pio La Torre ...................................F2 79 Lo Zozzone ..................................................D4 116 Casali............................................................ B3 80 Matricianella ................................................ G1 117 Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio .............. G5 81 Osteria del Sostegno .................................. F4 118 daDADA 52.................................................. D7 82 Osteria dell'Ingegno ...................................G3 119 De Sanctis ...................................................G4 83 Pasticceria De Bellis ...................................E6 120 I Colori di Dentro......................................... B5 84 Pizzeria la Montecarlo................................D5 121 Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio ..........................E7 85 Renato e Luisa............................................. F6 122 Le Artigiane ..................................................F5 86 Sergio alle Grotte ........................................D7 123 Le Tele di Carlotta ...................................... D3 87 Supplizio ......................................................B5 124 Loco.............................................................. D6 88 Venchi........................................................... F4 125 Luna & L'Altra ............................................. D5 89 Vice ............................................................... F6 126 Materie......................................................... G5 90 Zazà .............................................................. E4 127 Mondello Ottica .......................................... C5 128 Nardecchia .................................................. D4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p90) 129 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di 91 Barnum Cafe ...............................................C5 Santa Maria Novella ................................ E4 92 Caffè della Pace ..........................................D4 130 Omero e Cecilia .......................................... C5 93 Caffè Sant'Eustachio.................................. F5 131 Rachele ........................................................ D6 94 Ciampini ....................................................... G1 132 SBU .............................................................. D5 95 Circus ...........................................................C4 133 Stilo Fetti .....................................................G4 96 Etablì.............................................................C4 134 Tartarughe .................................................. G5 97 Fandango Incontro ..................................... F2 135 Tempi Moderni ........................................... C5 98 Gran Caffè La Caffettiera.......................... H4 136 Vestiti Usati Cinzia ..................................... C5 99 Il Goccetto....................................................B5 137 ZouZou......................................................... D5 100 Jerry Thomas Project.................................B5
101 La Casa del Caffè Tazza d'Oro ................. G4 Ø Sports & Activities 102 L'Angolo Divino ...........................................D7 138 Roman Kitchen ........................................... H5 103 L'Emporio alla Pace ....................................D4 139 Rome Boat Experience .............................. B2 104 No.Au............................................................D3
105 Salotto 42 ................................................... G4 ÿ Sleeping (p217) 140 Albergo Abruzzi .......................................... F4 ý Entertainment (p92) 141 Albergo Cesàri ............................................H4 106 Teatro Argentina......................................... F6 142 Albergo del Sole.......................................... E6 107 Teatro dell'Orologio....................................C4 143 Argentina Residenza.................................. F6 144 Casa di Santa Brigida.................................C6 þ Shopping (p92) 145 Dimora degli Dei .........................................G4 108 A S Roma Store.......................................... H3 146 Hotel Campo de' Fiori ................................ D6 109 Ai Monasteri ................................................ E3 147 Hotel Due Torri ........................................... E2 110 Al Sogno ....................................................... E3 148 Hotel Navona .............................................. E5 111 Alberta Gloves ............................................ G6 Hotel Pensione Barrett ...................(see 143) 112 Aldo Fefè ...................................................... F3 149 Hotel Teatro di Pompeo ............................ E6
303
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æ Top Sights (p173) 8 Chiesa di San Gregorio 18 Santuario della Scala 1 Basilica di San Magno.......................... E2 Santa & Sancta Clemente...................... F1 9 Chiesa di Santo Sanctorum..................H2 2 Basilica di San Stefano Rotondo.........F2 19 Triclinium Leoninum ....H2 Giovanni in 10 Cimitero Acattolico 20 Villa Celimontana.......... E3 Laterano......................H2 per gli Stranieri........... B5
3 Terme di Caracalla ....... E4 11 MACRO Testaccio ........ A5 ú Eating (p177) 12 Monte Testaccio ........... A5 21 Aroma.............................. F1 æ Sights (p174) 13 Obelisk............................H2 22 Cafè Cafè.........................E1 4 Basilica di Santa 14 Palazzo Laterano ..........H2 23 Caffè Propaganda.......... E1 Sabina.......................... B2 15 Parco Savello................. C2 24 Checchino dal 1887 ...... A5 5 Basilica di SS Quattro 16 Piramide di Caio 25 Da Felice.........................B4 Coronati ....................... F1 Cestio .......................... C5 26 Flavio al 6 Battistero.......................G2 17 Priorato dei Cavalieri Velavevodetto ............ A5 7 Case Romane ................ E2 di Malta........................ B3 27 Il Bocconcino..................E1
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28 Il Gelato ..........................D3 41 My Bar ............................. F1 Ø Sports & Activities (p271) 29 Li Rioni............................. F1 42 Rec 23.............................B3 49 Through Eternity 30 Mordi e Vai..................... A4 Cultural 31 Pizzeria Da Remo.......... A3 ý Entertainment (p180) Association .................H4 32 Taverna dei Quaranta.... E1 43 ConteStaccio................. B5 50 Top Bike Rental & 33 Trapizzino ...................... A4 44 Terme di Caracalla........ E4 Tours.............................F1 34 Trattoria da Bucatino... B4
þ Shopping (p180) ÿ Sleeping (p222) û Drinking & Nightlife (p179) 45 Calzature Boccanera....B4 51 Althea Inn .......................B5 35 Big Bang......................... A5 Nuovo Mercato 52 Hotel Lancelot ................F1 36 Coming Out.....................E1 di Testaccio....... (see 30) 53 Hotel Romance.............. F2 37 Il Pentagrappolo............. F1 46 Soul Food .......................G2 54 Hotel Sant'Anselmo......B3 38 L'Alibi .............................. A5 47 Via Sannio ......................H2
39 Linari...............................A4 48 Volpetti ...........................B4
40 L'Oasi della Birra...........B4
315
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TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO Map on p316
æ Top Sights (p160) 37 Sora Mirella Caffè.......................................H4 1 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in 38 Valzani ..........................................................F3 Trastevere.................................................H5
2 Basilica di Santa Maria in û Drinking & Nightlife (p168) Trastevere.................................................E4 39 Bar le Cinque............................................... E3 3 Villa Farnesina.............................................D2 40 Bar San Calisto ........................................... F4 41 Bar Stuzzichini............................................ B2 æ Sights (p161) 42 Big Star ........................................................ D5 4 Anita Garibaldi Equestrian 43 Da Biagio...................................................... E3 Monument ................................................B2 44 Freni e Frizioni..............................................F3 5 Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi a 45 Il Barretto .................................................... D5 Ripa........................................................... G6 46 La Mescita ....................................................F3 6 Fontana dell'Acqua Paola ..........................C4 47 Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà .......................... E2 7 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica di 48 Ombre Rosse .............................................. E3 Palazzo Corsini.........................................D2
8 Garibaldi Monument...................................B2 ý Entertainment (p169) 9 Gianicolo ......................................................C3 49 Alcazar Cinema ...........................................F5 10 Museo di Roma in Trastevere ...................E3 50 Big Mama..................................................... F6 11 Orto Botanico..............................................D2 51 Lettere Caffè Gallery.................................. F6 12 Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.............E4 52 Nuovo Sacher ..............................................F7 13 Porta Settimiana.........................................E2 53 Teatro Vascello........................................... B7 14 Tempietto di Bramante & Chiesa
di San Pietro in Montorio ........................D4 þ Shopping (p170) 54 Almost Corner Bookshop...........................F3 ú Eating (p163) 55 Antica Caciara Trasteverina ......................F5 15 Bir & Fud ......................................................E2 56 La Cravatta su Misura................................H5 16 Ciuri Ciuri .....................................................E5 57 Officina della Carta..................................... E2 17 Da Augusto .................................................. F3 58 Open Door Bookshop ................................H4 18 Da Corrado ..................................................E3 59 Porta Portese Market ................................ G7 19 Da Enzo ........................................................H5 60 Roma-Store.................................................G4 20 Da Olindo......................................................D3 61 Scala Quattorodici Clothing...................... E3 21 Da Teo ......................................................... H4
22 Dar Poeta .....................................................E3 ÿ Sleeping (p221) 23 Fatamorgana – Trastevere .......................E5 Arco del Lauro................................... (see 68) 24 Fior di Luna ..................................................F4 62 Buonanotte Garibaldi................................. D2 25 Forno la Renella .......................................... F3 63 Donna Camilla Savelli ................................D3 26 Glass Hostaria.............................................E3 64 Hotel Santa Maria....................................... E3 27 Innocenti ..................................................... G4 65 La Casa di Kaia............................................H5 28 La Gensola .................................................. H4 66 La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore .....................D1 29 Le Mani in Pasta..........................................H5 Maria-Rosa Guesthouse.................. (see 65) 30 Old Bridge ....................................................E3 67 Relais Le Clarisse ........................................F5 31 Panattoni..................................................... G4 68 Residenza Arco de' Tolomei .....................H4 32 Paris..............................................................F4 69 Residenza Santa Maria.............................. F4 33 Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina ..........E3 70 Villa Della Fonte ...........................................F3 34 Piazza San Cosimato ................................. E5
35 Pizzeria Ivo...................................................F4
36 Sisini ............................................................. F5
318
SAN LO
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æ Sights (p147) û Drinking & Nightlife (p153) 1 Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori le 15 Esc Atelier ....................................................C1 Mura .......................................................... C1 16 Gente di San Lorenzo ................................ B2 2 Chiesa di Santa Croce in 17 Il Tiaso.......................................................... D4 Gerusalemme...........................................B4 18 Locanda Atlantide ...................................... B3 3 Cimitero di Campo Verano........................ D1 19 Vicious Club ................................................ B3 4 Museo Storico della Liberazione ..............A4
5 National Museum of Musical ý Entertainment (p153) Instruments ..............................................B4 20 Istituzione Universitaria dei 6 Pastificio Cerere ......................................... C1 Concerti .....................................................B1 7 Porta Maggiore ...........................................B3 21 Teatro Ambra Jovinelli............................... A2
ú Eating (p150) þ Shopping (p155) 8 Formula Uno................................................B2 22 La Grande Officina ..................................... B2 9 Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni 23 Nuovo Mercato Esquilino .......................... A2 Fassi...........................................................A3
10 Pastificio San Lorenzo ............................... B1 Ø Sports & Activities (p271) 11 Pommidoro..................................................B2 24 Arcult............................................................ D4 12 Primo ............................................................D4
13 Said............................................................... B1
14 Tram Tram...................................................C2
319
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322
VILLA BORGH
ESE & NO
RTHERN
ROM
EVILLA BORGHESE & NORTHERN ROME Map on p324
æ Top Sights (p183) ú Eating (p190) 1 Museo e Galleria Borghese........................ F6 24 Al Settimo Gelo........................................... B5 2 Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa 25 Bar Pompi.....................................................B1 Giulia..........................................................D5 26 Caffè delle Arti ............................................ D5 27 Cinecaffè ..................................................... E6 æ Sights (p186) 28 Il Gianfornaio................................................B1 3 Auditorium Parco della Musica.................C3 29 Metamorfosi................................................ E4 4 Bioparco....................................................... E5 30 Molto ............................................................ E3 5 Casina delle Civette................................... H6 31 Neve di Latte ............................................... B3 6 Casino dei Principi ..................................... H6 32 Pallotta..........................................................B1 7 Casino Nobile ............................................. H6 33 Pasticceria Gruè ......................................... G5 8 Catacombe di Priscilla .............................. H3 34 Serenella...................................................... F6 9 Explora – Museo dei Bambini di
Roma .........................................................C5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p191) Fontana delle Rane........................... (see 19) 35 Chioschetto di Ponte Milvio .......................B1 10 Foro Italico...................................................A2 36 Piper Club.................................................... G5 11 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna e
Contemporanea.......................................D5 ý Entertainment (p191) 12 Giardino del Lago........................................D6 Auditorium Parco della Musica .........(see 3) Musei di Villa Torlonia ........................ (see 7) 37 Casa del Cinema......................................... E6 Museo Archeologico........................... (see 3) 38 Cinema dei Piccoli ...................................... E6 13 Museo Carlo Bilotti .....................................D6 39 Foro Italico................................................... A2 14 Museo d'Arte Contemporanea di 40 Silvano Toti Globe Theatre........................ E5 Roma (MACRO) ...................................... G6 41 Stadio Flaminio........................................... C3 15 Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI 42 Stadio Olimpico .......................................... A2 Secolo (MAXXI)........................................B3 43 Teatro Olimpico.......................................... B3 16 Piazza di Siena ............................................E6
17 Ponte Milvio .................................................B2 þ Shopping (p192) 18 Porta Pia.......................................................G7 44 Anticaglie a Ponte Milvio ........................... B2 19 Quartiere Coppedè.....................................G5 45 Bagheera ..................................................... D3 20 Villa Ada .......................................................G3 46 Bulzoni ......................................................... E3 21 Villa Borghese .............................................E6 47 Libreria l'Argonauta ...................................G6 22 Villa Poniatowski.........................................C5
23 Villa Torlonia............................................... H6 ÿ Sleeping (p222) Villa Torlonia Bunker .......................... (see 7) 48 Palm Gallery Hotel......................................H5
323
VILL
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VILLA BORGH
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327
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – Jan 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 680 4© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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Our WritersAbigail BlasiTridente, Trevi & the Quirinale, Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo, Traste-vere & Gianicolo, Southern Rome Abigail moved to Rome in 2003 and lived there for three years; she got married alongside Lago Bracciano and her first son was born in Rome. Nowadays she divides her time between Rome, Puglia and London. She has worked on four editions of Lonely Planet’s Italy and Rome guides, wrote the Best of Rome guide, and co-wrote the first edition of Puglia &
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Duncan GarwoodAncient Rome, Centro Storico, Vatican City, Borgo & Prati, San Giovanni to Testaccio, Villa Borghese & Northern Rome, Day Trips from Rome A Brit travel writer based in the Castelli Romani hills just outside Rome, Duncan moved to the Italian capital just in time to see the new millennium in at the Colosseum. He has since clocked up endless kilometres walking around his adopted hometown and exploring the far-flung reaches of the surrounding
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Read more about Duncan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/duncangarwood
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
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