Things to consider, when purchasing a bat for your child.

You don’t need to pay a lot to get a good bat for your child. The most important thing to consider when purchasing a youth bat is to size the bat to fit your child. The best rule of thumb is: “If it’s light, it’s right!”

Use the charts below as a general guideline for determining BAT LENGTH.

Use the charts below as a general guideline for determining BAT WEIGHT.Little League (8-10 yrs)

Player Height Bat Weight48-50" 16-17 oz.51-54" 17-18 oz.55-59" 18-19 oz.60+" 19-20 oz.

Youth League (11-12 yrs)

Player Weight Bat Weight70-80 lbs. 18-19 oz.81-100 lbs. 19-20 oz.101-120 lbs. 20-21 oz.121-140 lbs. 21-22 oz.141+ lbs. 22-23 oz.

High School & College

Player Height Bat Weight66-68" 27-28 oz.69-72" 28-29 oz.73-76" 29-30 oz.77+" 30-31 oz.

 

*** Baseball Bat Types *** Tee-Ball Bats

Tee-Ball bats are for ages approx 5 thru 7. They are generally used in tee-ball and coach pitch leagues. The bat barrel is 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 25 inch to 27 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 7 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 13.

Little League BatsLittle League bats are for ages approx 7 thru 12. They are used in leagues including Little League, Babe Ruth, Dixie Youth, PONY, and AABC. The bat barrel is 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 28 inch to 32 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 7 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 13.

Senior League BatsSenior League bats are for ages approx 10 thru 13. They are used in certain travel and tournament leagues. The bat barrel is available in 2 5/8 inch (high school regulation), and 2 3/4 inch (Big Barrel). Bat lengths range from 28 inch to 32 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 5 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 11.

High School / College BatsHigh School / College bats are for ages approx 13 and up. They are used in most High School and College leagues. The bat barrel is 2 5/8 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 30 inch to 34 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which must be minus 3. Most leagues require an approved BESR stamp on the bat (Bat Exit Speed Rating).

 

*** Composite Baseball Bats ***

  A word about Composite Baseball Bats

Composite Baseball Bats, such as the Easton Stealth Composite and Louisville Catalyst, are fairly new to the Baseball scene. They have been used in softball for many years. Early on, there seems to be some mixed reviews on the Composite baseball bats. I believe this is because the baseball world is not fully educated on these bats, and don't realize how to make a composite bat work for them.

To start off with, composite bats have a much longer break-in period than aluminum bats, and hitting jugz balls will not do it. If you plan on breaking in these bats in the cages, you need to use real baseballs. Another common complaint in some reviews is the poor durability of these bats. But, what players and coaches must realize is that they are not just swinging a hunk of metal anymore. Composite bats should not be used in cold weather; temperatures less than 70 degrees they can easily break, as many are finding out. Another common complaint is the cost. Yes, they are expensive, but if broken in correctly and used correctly, you will get so much more out of your bat than the aluminum or hybrids of past years.

There are several Pros and Cons (and misconceptions) about composite bats, but players and coaches need to have the correct information before making a judgment. After I explained the proper break-in and use of composites to a few of our high school players, they were amazed at the difference. At first, the ball will sound like it came off a wooden bat, which was another complaint in many reviews, but with proper effort and care you can break them in to the point where it sounds more like a rifle than wood. Players, coaches and parents need to know what they are buying. Without proper knowledge, they are just buying a $300 or $400 Bat, but with the correct knowledge they could be buying $300 Lightning Rod. Composite bats give a whole lot more forgiveness for the imperfect swing, and have the potential to make the average

hitter a clean-up hitter.

Coach C, Franklin Express.  

Composite Baseball Bat FAQ's

 How do I break in a composite bat?

 It usually depends on the bat, but commonly you just need a lot of good BP with the bat. You have to have between 100 to 200 hits to break it in. Some bats take longer than others. You need to be hitting goods balls, leather cover solid baseballs. Hitting off a tee will not break it in very effectively. You need to be hitting live balls thrown 40mph or better. A machine works good if it is set up to throw real baseballs. Each time you make good contact you need to turn the barrel about 1/8 turn so you break in the bat evenly.

 What do you recommend for proper care and maintenance of composite bats?

 Let me start out by stating keep your receipt. If there is a problem with the bat while it is under warranty, you will need the receipt when you send it to the manufacturer. Here are a few tips for proper care and maintenance:

1) Never leave any bat, especially a composite bat, in cold weather for an extended period of time. Cold weather is very bad on composites. So make sure when you get home you take it with you into your warm house. Never hit a composite bat in weather below 65 degrees or it will have a greater chance of breaking.

2) Try not to hit off the handle - this is where most breaks occur. Composite bats have flex to them in the handles, so a good impact blow off the handle can cause them to break.

3) Only hit leather cover solid baseballs.

4) Avoid having it become a team bat.

 Hi, we just got my son an Easton Stealth bat for his birthday. He was told by a parent that you should use car wax to keep the bat shinny. What do you recommend?

 I recommend just cleaning it with a wet rag. Using any foreign substance, like car wax, could be considered altering or tampering with the bat.

 You say not to hit a composite bat in cold weather. What about the heat (90+ degrees)?

 Basically, the warmer it is, the bigger your sweet spot becomes. Keep in mind that in some areas, such as Coastal areas or certain areas in the Midwest, with the heat there is usually higher humidity. So, although the bat is warm, the air is heavy. This doesn’t affect the bat, but can affect the ball and its flight - you may notice a difference, especially on high flies.

 Are half & half composite handle bats also bad in cold weather?

 Half and Half typically do have some problems in cold weather at the handle, however it is not in performance but durability. To be safe, try to avoid using them in cold weather (below 65 degrees).

 I was told at a store today that composite bats were made for use in cold weather???

 It depends what they mean by that. Composite bats do Perform well in cold weather. Although the performance is very good, the durability is extremely poor. Most manufactures recommend that you do not use composite bats in temperatures less then 70 degrees.

 Could I ever get a bat that after trying to break it in for months, just never performs?

 Sure you can. They make bats by the thousands, and you can receive a bat that may have a flaw in it that is not visible to you. If you get a bat that you have worked with and does not meet your expectations, call the manufacturer and ask if they will replace it. Most manufacturers stand behind the bats they make.

 Can these instructions on breaking in a composite Baseball bat be used for Softball bats also?

 Yes, same method but using softballs.

 Is a Composite bat better than Aluminum?

 It is basically a matter of opinion and manufacturer. It is my opinion that in most cases, a full composite bat is better than aluminum and is the best technology available today. There are pros and cons to each bat however. Which is better for you depends on what you are looking for in a bat, such as durability, sweet-spot, break-in time, warranty, flex, and other factors.

 Will a Composite bat hit the ball farther than an Aluminum bat?

 Given that contact is made on the barrel of the bat, not on the handle, my research and testing suggest that the composite bat does have more pop. However, this is only after the composite bat has been broken-in. Straight out of the wrapper, the aluminum bat will be equally as effective, but after break-in period, the composite will surpass it.

 What is Half & Half technology?

 Half & Half technology, in most instances, is where the handle is composite and the barrel is aluminum, alloy, or a hybrid material. These bats incorporate "two piece" technology. With the handle being composite, it allows for flex or whipping action. With the barrel being aluminum, alloy, or hybrid material, it gives the bat more durability. The main advantages of this technology are the durability of the barrel and the whipping action. These are typically very good bats and cost less than full composites, however, they will usually not have the pop

of a full composite.

 What is Hybrid technology?

 Basically, it is the process of combining two different materials to create the bat, such as combining SC900 aluminum with carbon, or combining different alloys of steels and aluminums.

 How do composite bats compare to double wall bats such as the DeMarini F3? Is there a noticeable difference in "pop" or is it just preference? I realize the double wall bats have less weight drop which takes away bat speed but with all things being equal such as bat speed is one better than the other?

 Double walls were designed to get a better trampoline effect at contact. Is there a noticeable difference? I think it would depend on the individuals swing. The double walls have a smaller sweet spot so the swing needs to be more precise, where the single wall composites allow for some imperfection in the swing. I personally think age and power of the player is critical in bat choice. I believe younger players should be swinging lighter balanced bats, and as their swing gets consistent then they can start working with End-Loads, less weight drop, and different wall designs.

 If bats are regulated by BPF what advantage do the alloys make? I understand stronger alloy allows for thinner walls therefore a lighter bat, but why not just find a light bat at a good length and buy the cheapest? Or do stronger alloys make a difference as far as performance?

 Stronger alloy bats and composite bats usually have better performance for the imperfect swing. Composites allow for mistakes to happen during the swing and still give you a little more pop. A lot of it has to with how the composite material or alloy's are formed to the bat shell; some bat manufacturers braid, weave, string, or float the alloys to make the shell of the barrels. All have there advantages and disadvantages. There are some composites that are great in some areas such as POP, but poor in other areas such as durability. Some are the opposite. Also remember that BFP is a rating, some bats clearly make it, some just make it, some perform at it, and others do not get approved.

 Some players say you should not use a weighted sleeve on a composite bat, but that the smaller donut is OK. What have you heard about this?

 I have heard of this, but do not believe or have any evidence that this is correct. I usually recommend something like the Jeter Variable Bat Weight Sleeve that is made of Nylon, but I do not believe that the other weight sleeves will damage the bat.

 A kid on my team has a Stealth bat marked with "Demo" on the handle. Are these demo bats any different than store bought versions?

 NO. (well they are not supposed to be).

 I was wondering how does a bat actually lose its "pop" and how would a person actually know the pop is gone?

 Bats can lose their pop several different ways - cracks, end cap separation, sometimes you can just get a bad bat out of the batch. Every bat will start to break down in time and eventually will crack or start losing pop as the material breaks down. How long this takes depends on many factors, including proper care and use of the bat.

You can usually tell when a bat starts to lose it's pop by the sound. It won't have the same solid sound and will sound a little flat. Sometimes you can tell by the feel of the bat at impact, where it does not feel the same as it previously had, and you may notice the velocity of the ball off the bat is not be like it had been. If the bat is still under warranty, you can contact the manufacturer.

 My friend told me that there are certain scratch lines in a composite bat that are deep and it means that the bat is going to crack. I have some of these scratches. Is this true?

 Those lines actually mean very little. It is just how the manufacturer mends the material to form the bat. Note that eventually, when the bat gets to the point of breaking, it may use one of those lines to break at.

 My new composite bat has a certain sound that I've never heard before. Does this mean that it is broken or is going to crack?

 If the sound you're talking about is like a wooden bat sound, welcome to the world of composite bats. It's a hard sound to get used to, but the more you break-in your bat, the more Crisp the sound will become. If you're referring to another sound such as a rattle or thud, you may have an issue with the bat and should contact the manufacturer.

 If my bat breaks and I have my receipt what do I do?

 Don’t take it back to the place you bought it from. You will need to find the manufacturers contact number, which is usually on the warranty information that comes with the bat, or you can find it online. Call them up and arrange an exchange - they will tell you what to do.

 If my bat breaks and I don't have my original receipt what do I do?

 If you bought your bat with a credit card there is still hope. The company you bought your bat from should be able to look up the transaction and get you a copy of the receipt. If you paid cash or are unable to get a copy of the receipt, you are probably out of luck and will have to buy a new bat.

 If my bat breaks and I send it in for a replacement can I get a different size?

 It usually depends on the manufacturer, but typically the size and weight can be changed from the original. Keep in mind that sometimes you may not be able to get the same model. You may have an older model that is no longer available. In that case, they will usually send

you a newer model of equal or higher value for the exchange.

 What is all this talk about "bat rolling"?

 As far as I know, bat rolling is considered "tampering" with the bat, and could result in a penalty from the league and void the warranty from the manufacturer. (Some of these bats push the limits already).

  Important Note on Bat Warranties

Each manufacturer has their own terms and conditions on bat warranties. Be sure to read the bat warranty policy for your particular bat before using it. Most bat warranties cover manufacturing defects from normal field usage. Most warranties do not cover bats used in commercial batting cages, altered in any way, or mistreated. Remember to save your original receipt. You will need to submit a copy of the receipt to be covered under the warranty.

*** Louisville Slugger Baseball Bat Technologies ***

*** Easton Baseball Bat Technologies *** 

 

 - General Terms –

Weight Drop

o Weight Drop is a term used to describe the weight of the bat. Weight Drop is shown as a minus number, such as minus 3 or minus 12. It refers to the difference between the length of the bat (in inches) and the weight of the bat (in ounces). Weight drop varies between brands and models. For example, a Little League DeMarini F3 bat is minus 10. It is available in lengths from 28 inch to 32 inch. The weight of the 28 inch would be 18 ounces, the weight of the 32 inch would be 22 ounces. Weight drop for Little League bats range from approx minus 7 to minus 13. The higher the weight drop, the lighter the bat. High school and college bats must be minus 3.

Barrel Size

o This is the diameter of the largest part of the bat. Little League bats are 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Senior League bats are available in 2 5/8 inch and 2 3/4 inch (big barrel). High school and college bats are 2 5/8 inch.

o The longer and larger the barrel, generally, the larger the sweet spot for hitting the ball.

o Some players prefer baseball bats with smaller barrels and lighter weight, which allows for more bat speed.

Bat Taper (diameter of the bat's handle)

o Standard baseball bats are tapered 31/32 of an inch but can be slightly larger or smaller depending on whether you want a lighter or heavier bat.

o Some players like a narrower taper for the lighter weight and to rotate their wrists faster when hitting. Other players prefer the feel of a bigger bat taper, which can also reduce the sting when a ball isn't struck on the sweet spot.

Grip (covering on the handle of aluminum bats)

o Baseball bats with leather or synthetic leather grips give a tackier feel for a surer grip.

o Rubber grips absorb more of the shock.

o Some bats come with a cushioned grip to decrease the shock even more.

- Choosing Youth Baseball Bats - 

First, three words about bats: "Light is Right"

Barry Bonds, who weighs 195 pounds, uses a 28 ounce bat! A light bat is easier to

control , and, contrary to old-school thinking, you can hit a ball harder and farther with a light bat than with a heavy bat because you can swing a light bat much faster. As acceptance of this fact has grown in recent years, the overwhelming trend in both baseball and softball has been to lighter bats. In case you need convincing, consider that NCAA and high school reviewing sports bodies have rules prohibiting baseball bats from being more than 3 ounces lighter in weight than the length of the bat in inches. This was done for safety reasons-it was thought that big, strong players swinging ultra-light bats hit the ball so hard that infielders were at risk.

In Little League, however, light bats are not considered to be unsafe for defenders, because the players aren’t nearly as big and strong as their older counterparts. Even using an ultra-light 19 ounce Little League bat, a typical 90 pound kid won’t be able to make up for the disparity in size and strength between himself and a college player. In fact, to have any chance of swinging with proper technique, most Little League players need an ultra-light bat.

It’s a bad idea to get a baseball bat that’s too heavy for your Little Leaguer with the thought that he or she will "grow into it". Instead, your kid will learn bad habits trying to swing a bat that is too heavy. When in doubt about two bats, go with the lighter bat.

(Article dated May, 1999)

THE RULES

Little League baseball bats must be 32" or less and have barrels no more than 2¼ in diameter. The bat must also be made of an approved material, but need not actually say "approved by Little League" on the bat. In practice, every major manufacturer uses approved materials.

LENGTH AND WEIGHT

Manufacturers typically print the bat’s length in inches on the barrel or the handle. They also print the weight, either in ounces, or as "- something". The "-" stands for weight in ounces less than length in inches. In other words, a 30 inch bat designated as "-10" weighs 20 ounces. Weight: In general, buy a bat that is "-10" or lighter.

The table below probably covers 80% of the players in a given division, but, as they say, "your mileage may vary". Some kids are bigger than others; some are strong for their size; some have already developed good technique. The best any article can give you is a rule of thumb.

Division (age)..............Bat Length, Weight Farm (7-8)..................26" or 27", -10 or lighter Jr. Minors (8-9)............27" to 29", -10 or lighterSr. Minors (9-12)..........28" to 31", -10 or lighter Majors (10-12).............29" to 32", -9 or lighter

MATERIALS

Wood is out - has been for years. Wood baseball bats are heavier, less durable, and have less "pop" than aluminum bats. Leave wood to the pros. Most modern bats are made of aircraft-grade aluminum supplied by Alcoa or Kaiser. Variations in the alloy formula have resulted in stronger alloys, allowing the manufacturers to design bats with thinner shell walls, which in turn corresponds to lighter weight. All of these advanced alloys are known by trade names (usually a number), as well as brand names (sometimes the same grade will be marketed under a different brand name by different bat makers). The brand names are heavily hyped: you can be sure that if a bat is made

of an advanced alloy, that fact will be trumpeted somewhere on the bat, usually in large bold letters. By the same token, you should beware of bats -11 or lighter that do not state the type of alloy used. They will probably be made of an alloy that is too weak to support the thinner wall required for the light weight.

Standard aircraft aluminum is designated in the trade as "7046". Most budget bats are made of this grade. "7050" grade alloy includes a small amount of copper, and is about 33% stronger than 7046. About 12 years ago, Alcoa branded its 7050 grade "CU31" and began marketing it in Slo-Pitch bats as the first high performance alloy. The "CU" designation refers to the addition of copper to the alloy. Alcoa’s "C405" is the next higher grade, supposedly about 10% stronger than CU31. C405 as introduced 8 or 9 years ago, quickly followed by C405 Plus and C405 Ultra, which are the same alloy manufactured under difference processes. The strength difference between C405 and C405 Ultra is only about 5%. C405 Ultra is, therefore, about 38% stronger than standard aircraft aluminum. "7075" is a new alloy by Kaiser that is claimed to be equal to or better than C405 Ultra. Kaiser’s Sc500 Scandium, and Alcoa’s C500 and C555 represent the next level up. C500 and Sc500 Scandium are about 3-5% stronger than C405 Ultra, respectively. C555 is claimed to be about 7% stronger than C405 Ultra, or about 40% stronger than standard aircraft grade aluminum.

The current king of the hill is SC777, made by Kaiser. While the other exotic alloys only offer incremental strength gains over CU31, SC777, if the claims are true, represents a truly big leap: about 50% stronger than C405. This means that SC777 is nearly twice as strong as standard aircraft aluminum.

(Article dated June, 2003)WHY ALLOY GRADES MATTER (AND WHY THEY MAY NOT)

There’s a lot of hype out there about the various alloys. Here’s why alloy grade really matters. Manufacturers use advanced alloys in order to be able to make the walls of the barrel of the bat thin while still allowing the bat to be strong enough to resist denting. Thin walls equal light weight. Thin walls are also claimed to contribute to a "trampoline" effect, or rebound, when the bat strikes the ball. The rebound effect enhances power, and therefore, distance, given the same swing speed. Think of throwing a baseball against a wall made of superball material, then against a wall made of concrete.

Other than allowing for thinner walls, however, there is little power to be gained from the exotic alloys themselves. The various alloys have virtually the same specific gravity, so the walls of a -11 CU31 bat are likely to be the same thickness as those of a -11 SC777 bat. There may be some difference in the trampoline effect, but it is negligible.

A good rule of thumb: stick to baseball bats made of CU31 or 7050 alloy or better for -10 bats, at least C405 for -11 bats, and C500 or better for -12 bats. If your child is 11 or 12 and uncommonly large and strong, consider Sc777. If the bat is -9 or heavier (I do not recommend bats heavier than -9 in Little League), alloy grade is not that important.

OTHER DESIGN FEATURESIn addition to advanced alloys, manufacturers also tout special features or manufacturing processes that supposedly increase the durability of their high-performance bats. Easton C-Core and Z-Core bats have carbon fiber bonded to the inside of the barrel walls for increased strength and durability. Easton C-Core and Z-Core bats do have a reputation for durability; whether their durability derives from the carbon fiber is anyone’s guess. Worth puts out several bats that hype a "cryogenic" manufacturing process. Testing by B&N Softball, an independent tester of slo-Pitch bats, has shown that "cryogenic" bats offer no strength advantage over non-cryogenic bats of the same alloy.

(Admittedly, this testing is now 2 years old; perhaps Worth’s newest "cryogenic" bats do offer some advantage. Personally I doubt it.) Worth also makes bats that employ variable wall thickness. This supposedly allows stronger, thicker areas to be adjacent to

thinner areas, somehow making it less likely that the bats will dent. Louisville Slugger"Air" bats and some Nike bats are filled with pressurized nitrogen to keep the bat from denting. Seems to me that this would affect, and maybe even compromise, the trampoline effect, but I don’t know of any testing on the subject.

SHOPPING FOR A BAT

You can expect to pay anywhere from $40 to $380 for a Little League bat (yes! $380 for a kid’s bat!). Therefore, it pays to shop around, including on the Internet. As baseball bats become more and more of a status symbol, like skis, manufacturers will continue to create new designs or at least new paint jobs every year. Sometimes you can find last year’s model for a lot less than the current model and sometimes last year’s model will actually be better.

- Metal vs. Wood - Metal baseball bats significantly outperformed wooden bats according to a recent study by a group of Brown University bioengineers, confirming a belief widely held by players and coaches. The average speed of a ball off the fastest bat, a metal model, was 93.3 mph; the average off the slowest bat, a wooden model, was 86.1 mph. Only 2 percent of hits made with wooden bats exceeded 100 mph, while 37 percent of the hits with the fastest metal bat were more than 100 mph, according to Joseph J. Crisco, associate professor of Orthopedics at the Brown Medical School. The findings were published in the October 2002 issue of Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise.

Although there is a general consensus that metal bats outperform wooden bats, few scientific studies have documented performance differences. In addition, the study confirmed the notion of a "sweet spot" associated with maximum ball speeds – those within the top 20 percent of the fastest hits from each bat model. The sweet spot was located approximately the same distance from the tip of wooden bats as it was from the tip of metal bats. Researchers concluded the metal bats produced faster batted ball speeds in part due to faster swing speeds, and in part to greater elastic properties found in nearly all of the metal bat models. In general, the lighter bats were swung faster and were associated with faster batted ball speeds.

Nineteen baseball players at the level of minor league, collegiate, and high school participated in the study. They used two wooden and five aluminum models from four manufacturers. Researchers measured batted ball speed, bat swing speed, bat impact location, and the elastic performance properties of the bats. Each player faced 10 to 20 pitches from a pitching machine with each bat. Researchers surrounded home plate with scaffolding supporting four infrared-sensing cameras to track the three-dimensional trajectory of the bat before impact as well as the pitched and batted ball; the cameras sensed reflective tape affixed to the bats and the balls. More than 1,000 pitches were recorded, of which about half were able to be analyzed. The others resulted in foul balls, pop-ups, missed pitches, or incomplete data.

The findings contribute to an ongoing dialogue about whether metal baseball bats increase the chance of injury to a pitcher – something this study did not examine – and therefore should be regulated. Currently high school and college players use aluminum and other metal alloy bats, while wooden bats are used in major and minor league baseball. However that may change. A recent decision by the Massachusetts Interscholastic Athletic Association, which regulates high school play, requires wooden bats in the 2003 tournament. Metal bats were introduced in the

1970s as a cost-saving alternative to wooden bats that were prone to break. A decade later, a general consensus had developed among players and coaches that metal bats could outperform wooden ones. In the late-80s, the National Collegiate Athletic Association implemented guidelines for weight and length of bats.