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SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS The industry's only trade journal R36.00 (incl VAT) APRIL 2015 Metal Concentrators celebrates 25 years SA’s power crisis and its effect on the industry Attendance up in Hong Kong

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SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journalThe industry's only trade journal

R36.00 (incl VAT)

APR

IL 2

015

Metal Concentrators celebrates 25 years SA’s power crisis and its effect on the industry Attendance up in Hong Kong

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

Offi cial Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za

Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CCBank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South AfricaBranch Code: 01-92-05Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9

Editor: Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: [email protected]

Watch Editor: Alice Weil

Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182

E-mail: [email protected]

Advertising Sales: Tanja Jordaan

Cell: 083-268-6153

E-mail: [email protected]

Advertising Sales Representative (India):

Bhupal Potdar

Cell: 91-982-115-1035

Email: [email protected]

Advertising Sales Representative (Hong Kong):

Maud Errera

E-mail: [email protected]

Designer: Joanne Brook

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Subscriptions & Accounts: Thuli Majola

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Fax: +27 (0)11 783-2677

E-mail: [email protected]

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and

Direct Marketing Solution

SA Jewellery News is published by:

Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC,

PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010,

Johannesburg, South Africa.

27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Chief Executive Offi cer: Andrew Meyer

E-mail: [email protected]

Chief Financial Offi cer: Imraan Mahomed

E-mail: [email protected]

Printing: Colors

16. international fairAttendance up in Hong Kong

18. branD historyWe trace the history of Ball Watches

21. scene arounDMetal Concentrators celebrated its 25th anniversary with a chic gala dinner at the ballroom of the Michelangelo Hotel in Sandton, Johannesburg, on 21 March

23. Jewellex africa 2015Jo Dallamore, Managing Partner of Intercolour Gems, believes shows such as Jewellex provide a focused, one-stop shop to benefi t buyers and sellers alike

15. Power crisisSA’s power crisis and its effect on the precious metals sector

Metal Concentrators is a leading precious metals refi ner and distributor of gold,

silver, platinum and palladium grain, alloys and minted bars. The casting division offers

rapid prototyping and trade casting in precious metals. Call for diamonds, Kruger Rands

and medallions. For more information, contact Metal Concentrators on tel: Pretoria:

(012) 000-4440; Cape Town: (021) 510-0770; Durban: 083-600-2210; Mauritius:

+(230) 283-3861 or e-mail: [email protected]. Website: www.metcon.co.za.

on the coverSOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERY NEWS

The industry's only trade journalThe industry's only trade journal

R36.00 (incl VAT)

APR

IL 2

015

Metal Concentrators celebrates 25 years SA’s power crisis and its effect on the industry Attendance up in Hong Kong

c ntents

28. little gemsThe story of a road

24. branD management• Breitling: The aviation connection

• Famous check design extended to timepieces

• Morellato – it’s all about the quality

• Pandora: Dazzling, darling daisies

• Inspired by historic chronometer

7. news• Jewel City and Diamond Centre likely to move

• De Beers hosts synthetic detection seminars

• Positive ambience at IIJS Signature 2015

• CIBJO commission’s special report released

• Antwerp Diamond Pavilion dominates at event

• Sotheby’s to offer 100ct emerald- cut diamond

NEWS

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council

(GJEPC) officially inaugurated its eighth edition

of Signature from 20-23 February at the

Bombay Exhibition Centre (NSE Complex) in

Mumbai. Over 580 exhibitors participated this

year, with over 1 100 booths spread over the

30 000 m2 venue. The event attracted more

than 7 000 national and international visitors.

It was inaugurated by chief guest, Andrey

Polyakov, Vice-president of Alrosa, Russia.

Speaking at the event, GJEPC Chairman

Vipul Shah said: “There’s widespread

optimism that good times are ahead. The

government has shown foresight and vision

in supporting our industry, with plans for a

special diamond import and trading zone.

We must use the opportunity to ensure that

India truly becomes a global hub for gems

and jewellery.

“A show like Signature not only supports

the growth of the gem and jewellery industry,

but also elevates it to higher levels of sophis-

tication. Every year, we observe improvements

in the design and quality of the products. And

the retail sector from all parts of the country

flocks to Signature in greater numbers to pur-

chase stock for increasingly demanding cus-

tomers. Both the buyers and sellers are grate-

ful that the show provides greater efficiencies

in sourcing. The jewellery events organised

by the council, such as the mega-India Inter-

national Jewellery Show, Signature, the India

International Jewellery Week and the India

Gem & Jewellery Machine Expo, have provided

useful platforms for the industry to grow and

collectively raise the bar in terms of quality,

design and business practices.”

A key highlight of Signature 2015 was an

online buyer matching programme which al-

lowed participating exhibitors to screen other

exhibitors beforehand, get automatic matches

to their requirements from the uploaded pro-

files and send enquiries ahead of the event in

order to schedule appointments.

Another highlight was the Signature mobile

app, which enabled participants and visitors to

seek stalls of various traders and display the

closest route to them.

Positive ambience at iiJs signature 2015

Gemological Science International (GSI), one of

the largest independently owned gemmological

laboratories in the world, has announced that

its Botswana laboratory is the first in Africa

to use DiaMension Axiom, Sarione’s next-

generation, high-tech scanner for measuring

and modelling polished diamonds.

Debbie Azar, Executive Vice-president of

GSI, says: “We’re proud to be the first user of

the DiaMension Axiom. With its introduction,

we can now detect the tiniest attributes and

features of a diamond, such as facets pointing

down to a micronic level of accuracy.”

The DiaMension Axiom is the only scanner

that enables fully automated cut and symmetry

grading. Such innovative technology breaches

the boundaries of the old shadow modelling

concept and limitations.

Uzi Levami, CEO of Sarine, says: “After 25

years of 3D modelling based on shadows, the

revolutionary DiaMension Axiom enables in-

light direct modelling of real-time microscopic

analysis, detecting the tiniest imperfections of

a diamond, such as facet junctions.”

gsi botswana first to utilise sarine axiom in africa

NEWS

Exclusively available from Something SpecialTEL: 011 544 1500 • FAX: 011 643 4987 • EMAIL: info@something special.co.za • www.somethingspecial.co.za

EXCITING BABY RANGE

Exclusively available from Something Specialinfo@something special.co.za • www.somethingspecial.co.za

STOCKIST

OPPORTUNITIES

AVAILABLE

The De Beers Group of Companies has

announced that its International Institute of

Diamond Grading & Research (IIDGR) business

ran synthetic detection symposiums around

India to demonstrate its technology to all

elements of the Indian diamond community.

The IIDGR team, led by the institute’s

Commercial Director, Jamie Clark, were at the

Bharat Diamond Bourse in Mumbai on 16 and

17 February, before travelling to the Gateway

Hotel Athwalines in Surat. Attendees gained

a better understanding of how the detection

technologies work and the role they play in

supporting consumer confidence in diamonds.

De beers hosts synthetic Detection seminars The IIDGR markets a range of leading

detection instruments that play a vital role in

giving diamantaires confidence in their own

inventory. This, in turn, enables them to provide

reassurance to their customers. The institute is

also in the process of establishing a referrals

centre at its Surat laboratory which will provide

a lower-cost option for testing stones referred

by detection instruments.

Jonathan Kendall, IIDGR’s President, says:

“Diamond businesses must be proactive in

managing risks related to undisclosed synthet-

ics and we believe these symposiums play an

important role in helping them do this.”

raPaPort inDia aPPoints new mDHarsh Parekh has been appointed the new

Managing Director of Rapaport India. A 15-

year veteran of India’s diamond industry, he

previously worked in jewellery merchandising

for Wal-Mart and most recently directed buy-

ing operations for the Zale Corporation in In-

dia. Rapaport India, with offices in Mumbai and

Surat, employs 68 team members who support

Rapaport, RapNet, GIA LabDirect, Information,

Research & Trading Services. “Harsh shares our

company values and will play an important role

in expanding Rapaport India,” says Martin Ra-

paport, Chairman of the Rapaport Group.

Rumours have been circulating about the sale

of the building currently housing the diamond

and jewellery fraternity in downtown Johan-

nesburg, namely Jewel City and Diamond Cen-

tre. Based on this, the industry has been inves-

tigating available options, since it is key to keep

the industry together in a secure zone, as is the

practice around the world.

A number of years ago, a presentation was

made by developers hoping to secure enough

support from the industry to develop a new

centre for the jewellery and diamond sector.

At that time, support did not justify the in-

vestment from the developers and the project

never got off the ground. Currently the situa-

tion seems more urgent, although the building

has not yet been sold. The managing agents of

the current premises are only extending short-

term (three-year) contracts to tenants and

most believe a move within the next three to

five years is a distinct possibility.

A presentation was given at the end of

February to Jewel City and Diamond Centre

tenants, while industry members from The

Hamlet were also invited to attend. The pres-

entation was very well attended, with approxi-

mately 170 people present. The developer

showed plans and concepts for a development

in Illovo. The next step will be for the consor-

tium proposing the new hub to get agreement

from enough players in the industry to ensure

sufficient support exists for it. This process is

currently underway.

Jewel city anD DiamonD centre likely to move

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

With the launch of a dedicated website at

www.latamdiamondweek.com, registration has

formally opened for the grand opening of the

Phase I building at the World Jewellery Hub trad-

ing complex in Panama City’s exclusive Santa

Maria business district. Scheduled to take place

from 27-30 April 2015, the event will feature the

first Latin America Diamond & Jewellery Week at

the Panama Diamond Exchange, with diamond

suppliers and jewellers arriving from across the

region and the world.

The website also enables participants to

register for Buyers’ Week and to book at the

event’s official hotel, the prestigious Trump

Ocean Club International Hotel & Towers,

which is offering participants a package of dis-

counted rates. Registered attendees travelling

to Panama from the Americas can book flight

tickets with Copa Airlines at 15% below the

regular price by providing a booking code sup-

plied on the website.

The Buyers’ Week is being co-hosted by

key Latin American jewellery associations Cá-

mara de Joyería Jalisco from Mexico, Instituto

Brasileiro de Gemas e Metais Preciosos and

Joya Cruz from Bolivia. Also co-hosting are the

World Federation of Diamond Bourses, CIBJO

(the World Jewellery Confederation), India’s

Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council,

the Israel Diamond Exchange, the Antwerp

Diamond Bourse, the Diamond Dealers Club of

New York, Fiera di Vicenza of Italy and the Insti-

tuto Gemológico Español of Spain.

The Latin America Diamond & Jewellery

Week will feature a variety of jewellery and loose

gemstones and will be one of the most signifi-

cant diamond and jewellery trade events ever to

have been held on that continent, with millions

of dollars worth of goods available for sale.

Another highlight of the week will be the

unveiling of the Phase II building of the World

Jewellery Hub, with construction beginning

later this year and a finish date scheduled for

2017. It includes a tower in its base, where

the offices and trading floor of the Panama

Diamond Exchange will be located, along with

high-end retail jewellery stores, a luxury com-

mercial centre, banks, specialised support ser-

vices and restaurants.

All available office space in Phase I of the

World Jewellery Hub, which is complete and

has been operating since the beginning of this

year, has already been allocated and there is a

long list of companies waiting for vacancies.

registration oPens for PDe granD oPening anD latin american DiamonD & Jewellery week

A joint venture has been brokered between the

parent company of the Fossil group of fashion

watches and the brand’s former South African

distributors, S Keren & Co.

Fossil (BV) Netherlands, the European subsid-

iary of Fossil Inc USA, has acquired a 51% hold-

ing in the Cape Town-based business, with the

remaining 49% to be held by Avi Keren. “This is

something we always felt was a natural match

for Fossil, the brand we’ve represented in SA for

23 years. It was like a homecoming,” says Keren.

The new venture will now be named Fossil

Accessories SA (Pty) Ltd, with Keren remaining

as Managing Director. The new venture will

only represent the numerous Fossil brands,

with the exception of Swiss brand Mondaine.

new Deal for fossil

“Almost all the brands of which we’ve been

distributors are Fossil brands, either owned or

licensed by the Fossil Group,” explains Keren.

These include Skagen, Michele, Zodiac, Michael

Kors, Emporio Armani, Burberry, Marc by

Marc Jacobs, Diesel, Armani Exchange, DKNY,

Adidas, Karl Lagerveld, Tony Burch and the

recently acquired Kate Spade.

Fossil is the largest contributor to the

South African business, reports Keren and the

company has on site all the expertise necessary

for its optimum operation. There is no plan for

any American or European personnel to move

to the local office. Fossil originated in Dallas,

Texas in 1984 and has grown to be the largest

fashion watch company in the world, with over

US$3,5 billion sales and 16 000 employees

worldwide. The company is quoted on the

Netherlands stock exchange.

Keren is upbeat about the joint venture: “We

believe this has enabled us to take the business

to the next level. Our focus is not merely on SA,

but also on sub-Saharan Africa, which we cover

too,” he comments. “We plan to be the leading

fashion watch company in SA. With our world-

class brands, Fossil’s support and the expertise

of our local team, we’re confident of expanding

our position as market leaders.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

The Panama Diamond Exchange (PDE), the only recognised diamond bourse

in Latin America, will celebrate the grand opening of the phase I building

of its dedicated trading complex from 27-30 April 2015. The event will be

highlighted by a buyers’ week on PDE’s new 300 m2 trading floor.

The Latin America Diamond & Jewellery Week will feature a variety

of jewellery and loose gemstones and will be one of the most significant

diamond and jewellery trade events ever to have been held in this region,

with millions of US dollars' worth of goods for sale.

The buyers’ week is being co-hosted by key Latin American jewellery

associations Cámara de Joyería Jalisco from Mexico and Instituto Brasileiro

de Gemas e Metais Preciosos from Brazil. Also co-hosting are the World

Federation of Diamond Bourses, CIBJO-The World Jewelry Confederation,

India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, the Israel Diamond

Exchange, the Antwerp Diamond Bourse, Diamond Dealers Club of New

York and Fiera di Vicenza of Italy.

While the grand opening has yet to be formally celebrated, PDE’s phase

I building is already fully operational, with trading underway and all import

and export services up and running. The building already counts among

its residents 45 multi-national firms, including 14 of the world’s largest

diamond and jewellery trading corporations, which together employ

85 000 people globally and report combined annual revenues of more

than US$13 billion.

The building is located in a Free Zone, which was established by an Act

of the Panamanian Parliament for the benefit of the international gem and

jewellery trade, and exempts transactions conducted within its area from

payments of customs duties and taxes.

PDe to oPen Phase i builDing

CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation and Fiera di Vicenza have

launched the jewellery industry’s first web-based corporate social

responsibility (CSR) compliance system at the VicenzaOro show in Vicenza,

Italy. The system was developed by Branded Trust Assurance Systems.

The launch took place on 25 January in Pavilion 7.1 and was followed

by a seminar entitled “Social Responsibility as the New Reality: Best

Practice Initiatives, Tools and Business Success”.

The CIBJO-Fiera di Vicenza CSR system is geared to provide practical and

economic solutions to all companies in the industry seeking to achieve so-

cial compliance, develop risk management policies and do social reporting.

Managed online, the Branded Trust system provides simple, effective

tools that are easily managed, integrate with existing systems and bring

leading businesses into compliance with major international rules. The

first tool is a web-based management system that can be implemented

across an organisation. It encompasses a set of policies, measures, full

implementation support, education and reporting. Branded Trust provides

certification to businesses that have achieved successful implementation.

The second tool is a system which allows certified businesses to

participate in the ethical market. This not only provides supply-chain

transparency and product differentiation, but reduces business risks

associated with markets.

Branded Trust, which was presented last year at the United Nations in

New York, is the outcome of an extended research partnership between

a team of researchers, business leaders and industry associations, which

led to the development of effective methods for improving business

performance by combining outstanding management practice with social

responsibility principles.

launch of first web-baseD csr comPliance system

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

NEWS

antwerP DiamonD Pavilion Dominates at eventFrom 2-6 March 2015, the Antwerp World Dia-

mond Centre (AWDC) hosted 109 leading dia-

mond traders in the Antwerp Diamond Pavilion

at the 2015 Hong Kong Diamond, Gem & Pearl

Show. It was the second year the traditional

Hong Kong March fair has featured a separate

loose stone venue. In its first year, the show at-

tracted over 32 000 professional buyers from

around the world, marking its emergence as one

of the most successful shows in the industry.

Considering that Hong Kong remains a key

destination in the world for polished diamonds,

this show is extremely important to Antwerp

diamond companies. Representatives from

businesses of all sizes saw a tremendous variety

of loose stones on display at an extremely

favourable price/quality ratio.

Although the Chinese government has

lowered its growth expectations for 2015 to 7%

and the Chinese New Year had just ended, the

show provided an ideal opportunity to maintain

good relations and establish new contacts.

Santosh Kedia from Kediam said: “If you

can offer customers attractive prices and have

the right contacts, the Hong Kong Trade Fair in

March is still a great platform for doing business.”

Mike Akiki from Antwerp Cut, specialist in fancy

coloured diamonds, added: “Potential buyers

don’t come here specifically to replenish their

stocks, but to make the right contacts so that

they immediately know who to talk to when

they need a customised order.”

Despite the less favourable economic outlook

for the coming year, Hong Kong remains one of

the premier marketplaces for diamantaires. With

the Chinese market for diamonds expected to

double in the next 10 years, Antwerp diaman-

taires want to have their networks in place.

AWDC is an industry-established founda-

tion whose mission is to serve and support the

diamond business in the city, the world’s most

important diamond trade hub. As the co-ordi-

nating body and official representative of the

Antwerp diamond sector, the foundation is

recognised internationally as the host, mouth-

piece and intermediary for the Belgian diamond

community. In this capacity, it liaises with gov-

ernments and actively promotes support for the

diamond sector at home and abroad.

Eighty-four percent of all rough diamonds

and 50% of all polished diamonds pass through

Antwerp. Diamonds represent 5% of total

Belgian exports and 15% of all Belgian exports

outside the European Union.

TEL: 011 011 9110 | EMAIL: [email protected]

cibJo commission’s sPecial rePort releaseDWith the opening of the 2015 CIBJO Congress

in Salvador, Brazil, scheduled for 4 May 2015,

the first of the special reports from the CIBJO

Marketing & Education Commission (headed by

Jonathan Kendall) has been released. The report

urges the jewellery and gemstone industries

not to fall behind other business sectors in

adopting positive environmental policies.

The upcoming CIBJO Congress will be

carbon-neutral, notes Kendall, likely making it

the first-ever jewellery industry conference or

trade show to achieve this status. He has also

announced the launch in Brazil of the CIBJO

Climate Leadership Awards, which will focus

on recognising jewellery and gemstone trade

organisations or individuals showing leadership

in response to climate change.

“Research has shown that consumers make

choices between product categories and today

the jewellery industry’s competition comes from

products such as smartphones and computers. All

these industries have made significant progress

with regard to the environment. We don’t wish

to see our industry left behind,” writes Kendall.

The Rough Diamond Days which took place

at the end of February in the Antwerpsche

Diamantkring was once again well attended. Some 65 exhibitors traded a

significant number of rough diamonds to national and international dealers.

In 2014, US$58,8 billion worth of diamonds were imported to and

exported from Antwerp. Given that 84% of all rough diamonds and 50%

of all polished diamonds pass through the city, it remains the ideal place to

purchase stones at the best price/quality ratio.

Nevertheless, these are difficult days in the international diamond

trade. The prices of rough diamonds are extremely high, while the prices

for polished diamonds have not followed, forcing many dealers to sell at

no profit, or even incur a loss.

Freddy Inzlicht, organiser and Chairman of the Antwerpsche

Diamantkring, says: “A wide range of rough diamonds were on offer

during this two-day trading event, so everyone could find what they were

looking for. Above all, the personal contacts boosted confidence, which is

something many dealers need in these difficult times.”

The Antwerpsche Diamantkring is the only trade fair in the world

specialising in rough diamonds. Organising the Rough Diamond Days in

the wake of the so-called “sighting week” enables contact to be made

easily with rough diamond dealers. Major mining manufacturers organise

sighting days to present their offerings of rough stones.

The fair attracted more than 2 500 potential buyers. In addition to the

many Belgian diamond traders, a large number of foreign delegations were

from India, the USA and Israel.

rough DiamonD traDe fair well attenDeD

15SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

POWER CRISIS

load-shedding and the impact of the ongoing power crisis on sa’s mining and metal extracting sectors featured high on the agenda during the 2015 africa mining indaba. industry leaders, including peripheral players such as precious metal refiners, are worried and are hoping for a sustainable solution.

AS SOUTH AFRICAnS ARE SUBJECTED TO

load-shedding and an insecure energy supply,

the 20th Investing in Africa Mining Indaba

recently opened its doors to over 7 000

business leaders, investors, mining experts and

politicians from all corners of the planet.

While the event, known as the world’s

largest mining and investment gathering, was

dominated by distinct optimism, particularly in

relation to the ongoing recovery of the global

economy, there was apprehension too, says

Bernard Stern, CEO and co-founder of Metal

Concentrators (MetCon), SA’s largest inde-

pendent precious metal refinery. He adds that

various speakers voiced their concerns about

Africa’s overall energy shortages and the im-

pact of this on mining activities.

Figures by the World Bank, for instance,

showed that 1-3 Gigawatts (GW) of electricity

are installed in Africa each year. Stern says this

is a fraction of the 6-7 GW of newly-installed

power capacity the continent needs per annum

in order to achieve universal access to electricity

by the year 2030.

“Investors are worried and a big concern

among them has to do with power,” said Credit

Suisse mining analyst Justin Froneman during

the Mining Indaba’s first day. “There’s a dire

need to grow mining production across Africa,

but this requires more energy. The question is

where this power base comes from.”

“Over the past years, SA’s natural resource

output has dropped. Gold was no exception,”

There’s a dire need to grow mining production across Africa, but this requires more energy. The question is where this power base comes from.

says Stern. “According to recent statistics from

the Chamber of Mines, our country’s gold pro-

duction fell by over 50% over the past eight

years, from 226,105 kg of fine gold in 2007 to

146,473 kg in 2013.”

While there are many reasons

for this decline, energy insecu-

rity is undoubtedly one of the

most important ones. “In January

2008 alone, the month which

heralded the start of our power

crisis, gold production in SA fell

by 16,5%,” Stern said. “SA’s gold

output for the entire first quarter

of 2008 declined by 17% com-

pared with the same period the

year before. This can be attrib-

uted directly to our energy problems.”

While load-shedding slowly subsided and

was put in abeyance for a while, it has now

reared its ugly head again. “It’s important to

realise that the energy crisis has never gone

away – and it won’t go away anytime soon,”

says Stern.

He adds that although the energy crisis

has hit gold producers and other mining

companies, in particular, peripheral players

are equally concerned. “We need power,

whether it’s to produce gold, refine it or turn

it into, for instance, jewellery, Kruger Rands or

minted gold bars,” he says. “During the past

few months, we’ve had numerous incidents of

load-shedding. Our timeous investment in a

diesel generator has rescued our productivity,

albeit at a substantial cost. It’s crucial for

Eskom and the Department of Energy to find

a sustainable solution to ensure the future of

gold mining and the subsequent

beneficiation of our precious

metals. SA’s natural resource

industry, as well as upstream

and downstream operations, are

massive drivers of the economy

and important job creators too. If

mining has a hard time, everyone

else has a hard time too.

“The nuclear deal with Russia

might be controversial, but it’s

good news in terms of energy

security,” Stern adds, explaining

that in the long run, this will provide SA with

a stable supply of energy. “The problem is

that it will take many years before these new

power plants start pumping energy into the

energy grid,” he stresses. “We need some-

thing in the interim to keep our country’s

economy going.”

(Above): Bernard Stern of Metal Concentrators.

SA’s power crisis and its effect on the precious metals sector

16 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

under the “two shows, two venues” arrangement for a second successive year, the hong kong international Diamond, gem & Pearl show and the hong kong international Jewellery show welcomed over 76 000 buyers from 140 countries and regions, up 2% over last year.

Attendance up in Hothe growth potential of Hong Kong’s and the

Chinese mainland’s jewellery markets, with

most of them considering the Chinese main-

land a key market to explore.

In terms of product materials, the majority

of buyers and exhibitors interviewed expect

carat gold to be the most popular in 2015,

including gold-carat white (48%), gold-carat

yellow (32%) and gold-carat rose (33%). They

also predict that diamonds (50%) will be the

most popular gemstone this year, and 1ct

(48%), round-cut (45%) and colourless (41%)

diamonds will lead the market.

The majority of respondents consider jewel-

lery shows in Hong Kong effective. Ninety-one

percent of buyers and 93% of exhibitors con-

sider Hong Kong’s fairs a major channel to find

NEARLY 30 000 BUYERS VISITED THE DIA-

mond, Gem & Pearl Show at AsiaWorld-Expo

(2-6 March), while over 46 000 visitors attend-

ed the Jewellery Show at the Hong Kong Con-

vention & Exhibition Centre (4-8 March). Both

events were organised by the Hong Kong Trade

Development Council (HKTDC).

“Despite the global economic challenge, the

two shows recorded a slight increase in buyer

attendance. It’s a very encouraging result.

Attendance from some traditional markets even

recorded double-digit percentage growth, such

as the USA, Italy, the UK and Japan. Attendance

from certain emerging markets such as

Thailand, Israel and SA also recorded significant

growth, reinforcing Hong Kong’s position as a

leading jewellery sourcing hub,” says Benjamin

Chau, HKTDC Deputy Executive Director.

The HKTDC commissioned an independent

agency to conduct on-site surveys during the

two shows, interviewing 1 206 buyers and ex-

hibitors about their views on market prospects,

products and industry trends. The survey found

that around 80% of buyers expect steady or

increased overall sales this year. Over 60% of

buyers and exhibitors expect retail prices to

remain steady in order to remain competitive.

Both buyers and exhibitors are optimistic about

17SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

INTERNATIONAL FAIR

More than 4 360 exhibitors from 52 countries and regions took part in the two shows, setting a new record and ensuring the event’s continued status as the world’s largest jewellery marketplace.

Hong Kong

of Cambodia’s Chheng Hak Stone Diamond,

notes that Cambodian consumers prefer high-

end jewellery set with large diamonds as a sign

of their wealth and status. “We looked for big

diamonds, pearls, vintage diamond jewellery

and uniquely designed jewellery at the two

shows,” he said. “The Hong Kong International

Jewellery Show is huge, where buyers can find

what they need.”

Amid the economic uncertainties in Eu-

rope, there were some pleasant surprises at

the fair. The Italian Jewellery Silverware &

Watch Federation’s Chief Executive, Steven

Tranquilli, said at the event that the Italian re-

tail market is recovering and consumers are fa-

vouring medium- to high-end jewellery items.

“The federation will organise a delegation

of about 50 Italian retailers to visit the two

shows again next year,” he said.

More than 4 360 exhibitors from 52 coun-

tries and regions took part in the two shows,

setting a new record and ensuring the event’s

continued status as the world’s largest jewel-

lery marketplace. Most exhibitors said Hong

Kong’s position as an international jewellery

trading hub helps them enter Asian markets.

This year, the Diamond,

Gem & Pearl Show intro-

duced the new “Treasures

of Ocean” zone to show-

case exquisite pearls. Many

exhibitors revealed

that there is a big demand for

high-quality pearls on the Chi-

nese mainland. Jose Casares,

the Director of Switzerland’s

Shanghai Gems SA, a pearl

wholesaler, says Chinese

mainland customers were

particularly interested in natu-

ral, top-grade pearls, and this

will help his company’s growth in

the Chinese mainland market. Alain Boite,

the President of Alain Boite SAS from France,

is also optimistic about Asia’s emerging mar-

kets and was grateful for the opportunity to

reach international buyers through the events.

“We did good business at the shows this year.

Many customers approached us to buy all sorts

of pearls in different sizes. We met some new

buyers from the Chinese mainland, Hong Kong

and Indonesia as well, and their demand for

gold pearls is especially strong,” he said.

Japan’s JETRO also gathered nearly 100 Jap-

anese companies to exhibit at the Hong Kong

International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show. The

President of Japan Pearl Exporters, Yoshihiro

Shimizu, was particularly complimentary about

the show’s good traffic and active trades.

Besides the pearls featured at the Australia

pavilion, the country’s opals were also very

well received. Andrew Cody, the Di-

rector of Cody Opal (Australia)

and head of the 11-company-

strong Australian delegation

at the events, says: “The

buyers’ feedback was 50%

above our expectations.

There’s a particularly strong

demand for black opals be-

cause of their rarity. We met

many Chinese mainland customers

who are looking for high-end loose opals

and we’ve successfully closed deals with them.”

First-time British exhibitor Moira Fine Jewel-

lery had a booth at the Jewellery Show’s Hall

of Extraordinary, Antique & Vintage Jewellery

Galleria. The company’s owner, Suzanne Laud-

er, says European jewellery sales have slowed

down in recent years, but the show helped her

company reach more international buyers and

discover Chinese mainland clients.

Hong Kong’s exhibitors have also benefited

from the rise in buyers. Cherry Chong, the

Manager of diamond and jewellery retailer Lili

Jewelry, says the company’s handmade jewellery

is rare in the market. Its products have been very

well received by European and Indian buyers and

some even placed their orders on site.

new suppliers, while 79% of exhibitors consider

the fairs a key avenue to promote new products.

The majority of respondents said the twin Hong

Kong fairs are their must-attend trade show.

Buyers from the USA have continued to

surge. The US Jewelry Importers & Manufactur-

ers’ Association organised 10 jewellery compa-

nies to visit the Hong Kong International Dia-

mond, Gem & Pearl Show to buy diamonds and

coloured stones. The Association’s President,

Dagbjorn Johnson, considers the shows well or-

ganised and conducive to stone-sourcing. Adri-

enne Dequarto, the Director of Catalog Mer-

chandising of Luxury Brand Holdings, which is

also based in the USA, stresses that the shows

are important because they facilitate sourcing

for the upcoming seasons and preview new

trends, adding: “We fixed 50 appointments

through HKTDC’s business matching service

before going to the show and we’d already

bought samples for all our product lines.”

The purchasing power of the emerging

markets should also not be ignored. Ayman

MN Al Chaar, the owner of UAE-based Samer

Jewellery, says he placed on-site orders worth

more than US$300 000. San Seyho, the Director

18 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

BRAND HISTORY

THE RAILROAD IS COnSIDERED An AMERICAn

icon which helped to consolidate the country

and united it through a web of steel. The whistle

of the locomotive across the countryside was

a symbol of freedom of movement before the

advent of the automobile.

After the Ohio disaster, which occurred

because one of the engineers’ watches had

stopped, it became apparent that stringent

regulations were required to ensure such a

tragic event did not recur. Webster Clay Ball,

who – after a two-year apprenticeship to a

jeweller – had opened a jewellery shop in

Cleveland, Ohio, was commissioned by the

railway officials as Chief Time Inspector in 1891.

His duties were to establish strict standards for

all watches used by railroad employees.

Ball, as one of the pioneers of rail timing,

was instrumental in establishing these precision

standards, as well as a timepiece system for

railroad chronometers. In fact, in 1973 this

inspired the establishment of the Swiss Society

of Chronometry’s (COSC) own chronometric

certification standards, which still apply today.

And so Ball’s original jewellery business

evolved into the Ball Watch Company, which

followed strict guidelines for the manufacture

of a sturdy, reliable precision timepiece. At first

he utilised other watch companies’ movements

and perfected them. His company also used

complete watches from other companies. His

suppliers were top American companies Elgin,

Hamilton, Waltham and additional sources such

as Swiss mechanical movements from Audemars

Piguet, Longines and Vacheron Constantin.

It was obvious that as railroads involve

movement, the authorities required a set of rules

as well as the physical equipment to enforce

them. In the UK, for example, the Regulation of

Railways Act had already been passed in 1889,

introducing a set of requirements implementing

safety measures, as a result of a serious rail

accident in that country.

Railway signalling is a system designed to

safely direct rail traffic in order to prevent trains

from colliding. Trains travel on rails which are

fixed, making them susceptible to collisions un-

less their movements are controlled. This is even

more important when trains are running on a

single track, as happened in the Ohio disaster.

Ball’s original jewellery business evolved into the Ball Watch Company, which followed strict guidelines for the manufacture of a sturdy, reliable precision timepiece.

to a large degree, the development of the watch industry in america is attributable to the installation of the country’s first railroads, which opened up the west. a head-on collision between two trains in the state of ohio in 1889, in which eight people lost their lives, stressed the need for accuracy and promptness in train timetables. we trace the history of ball watches – the american brand which was among the first to react to these changes towards the end of the 19th century.

On the Ball

Essential to this was the need for highly accurate

timing. Before the train had gained momentum

– a factor which made it difficult to halt, before

reaching an impending obstacle – an authority

was needed to control its movements.

Enter the signalling system and the station

master, who were responsible for the train

control of a particular section of the railroad.

This system needs to be run according to an

exact timetable, making precision timekeeping

a necessity. Another problem relating to the

inflexibility of the system was that trains could

not be delayed without advance notice. The

timetable was the normal mode of operation in

the early days of the railroads of North America.

The company’s links with Switzerland even-

tually encouraged management to move its

headquarters and workshops to the watch-

making town of La Chaux-de-Fonds in the

Canton of Neuchâtel – an advantageous move

because of its access to sophisticated industry

requirements and skilled personnel. This has

entitled the brand to be identified as “Swiss-

made”, while preserving its American origins.

Interestingly, the brand is credited with being

the inspiration for the phrase “to be on the

ball”, which means being absolutely precise.

Ball’s innovations and creativity are the

foundation and cornerstones of its corporate

mission. “Accuracy under adverse conditions”

is its credo – in the tradition of its founder.

Ball aspired to manufacture the most accurate

mechanical watches on the planet and today

claims that it is setting standards for accuracy.

The timepieces are equipped with self-powered

micro-gas light technology, which illuminates

brightly for up to 25 years. Other innovations

include the 7,500 force shock absorber and a

patented crown protector.

21SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

SCENE AROUND

LEADIng SA REFInERy METAL COnCEnTRA-

tors celebrated its 25th anniversary with a chic

gala dinner at the ballroom of the Michelangelo

Hotel in Sandton, Johannesburg, on 21 March.

Industry members and friends joined owners

Bernard and Hilary Stern for an evening marked

by elegant ballgowns, sumptuous food and

beautiful décor.

aroundScene

22 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts

• For your weekly dose of interesting industry-related facts,

visit: www.facebook.com/pages/SAJN/508328912586722 and “like” the SAJN Facebook page.

The colour of gold has always been pure yellow. It changes its hues when mixed with various metals to create jewellery. In fact, it is quite rare to see a piece of

jewellery that’s crafted using pure gold.

1 2

The Federal Reserve Bank of New York holds the world’s largest accumulation of

monetary gold. The vault is 25 metres beneath the street and holds US$147 billion

worth of gold bullion.

3

Oils or paraffin are typically added to emeralds to enhance the clarity of the stone. The process masks some of the

inclusions and allows the beautiful emerald colour to shine through.

The Heart of the Ocean, from James Cameron’s Titanic, was not completely

fictitious – it is believed that a rather large sapphire went down with the Titanic on

that fateful night.

4

If you put a diamond on your tongue, your tongue will start to get

cooler. A diamond is the best conductor of heat, so it’s as if the stone sucks all

the heat from your tongue.

6

The word “bracelet” comes from the Latin brachiale, meaning “belonging to the arm”.

5

In 1953, when Sir Edmund Hillary was the first man to conquer Mt Everest,

he was wearing a Rolex Oyster.

People in countries such as England, the United States of America, France and

Canada traditionally wear the engagement ring on the left hand. However, in

Germany, Russia and India, the ring is worn on the right hand.

7 8

Injectable gold has been proven to helpreduce pain and swelling in patients

suffering from tuberculosis and rheumatoid arthritis.

9

23SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

JEWELLEX AFRICA 2015

A show like Jewellex rubber-stamps the confidence the Jewellery Council of South Africa has in the local industry.

Where networking is keyJo Dallamore, managing Partner of intercolour gems, believes shows such as Jewellex provide a focused, one-stop shop to benefit buyers and sellers alike.

How long have you been a part of Inter-

Colour Gems?

I’ve had the privilege of working at the company

since March 2003.

What do you enjoy most about working in

the jewellery industry in SA?

Dealing with well-cut, good-quality coloured

gemstones, as well as interacting with like-

minded people every day. Working in the

jewellery industry in South Africa has been a

challenging and inspirational journey. In trading

as a wholesaler to the industry, I’ve met highly

knowledgeable and wonderfully creative peo-

ple who continue to inspire me and I’ve learnt a

great deal from them.

The ongoing and loyal support of both our

clients and suppliers has allowed me to travel

the world in order to personally hand-pick the

best coloured gemstones at the right prices

for our market and also to be exposed to the

very latest cutting trends. Many of our clients

involve me in their creative process in terms of

stone selection, which is always fascinating. I

love seeing our stones in the finished product.

Why do you believe shows like Jewellex

are so vital?

A trade show like Jewellex provides an op-

portunity for people in the wholesale trade to

showcase the latest and best of their stock to a

potentially broader client base and to interact

with other stand-holders.

Jewellex provides a wonderful networking

opportunity for all participants. In a short space

of time, trade buyers can be educated and

source new stock in a protected environment

that’s conducive to trade. Specials are always

offered by stand-holders which appeal to

anyone who can’t resist a bargain, as well as to

buyers who may not be able to afford to buy at

the top end of the market.

A show like Jewellex rubber-stamps the

confidence that the Jewellery Council of SA

has in the local industry. Its marketing garners

national interest and a sense of excitement in

drawing all the main players in the industry

from all over the country and other parts of

the world to come together, under one roof,

for a few days.

How many times have you attended Jew-

ellex before?

Intercolour Gems has been a stand-holder at

the show for the past 10 years as both a buyer

and a seller.

Do you think Jewellex Africa 2015 will be

different from previous years?

I look forward with interest to this year’s event.

I’m very excited about a dedicated diamond

pavilion which will be showcased for the first

time – a new development for the show.

24 SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

BRAND MANAGEMENT

inspired by historic chronometer

Dazzling, darling daisies

Swiss brand Zenith celebrates its 150th an-

niversary this year by introducing an excep-

tional mechanical timepiece – the Academy

Georges Favre-Jacot.

The special feature of this timepiece,

which has been inspired by the historic

marine chronometer, is that it uses the fusée

and chain system – which required great

expertise to transpose into the small space of

a wristwatch. The function of the device is

to compensate for the progressive reduction

in the fusée on the barrel as the power

reserve is discharged, as well as to maintain

perfect stability of the force, with no loss of

amplitude. In other words, the mainspring

transmits its energy to the fusée.

Adjusting variations in tension

ensures the regularity of the

force distributed to the

gear train and then to the

silicon escape wheel.

This timepiece is a me-

chanical, hand-wound, con-

stant-force calibre; the fusée

and chain connect the watch

to the barrel. It is a COSC-certi-

fi ed chronometer which vibrates

at 30 000 vibrations per hour. It has

737 parts, including 575 for the fuse

and 30 jewels, and is set in a 43-48

mm case of 18ct pink gold. The cam-

bered sapphire crystal on both sides

has anti-refl ective treatment. The

grained dial is silver-toned, the

barrel set between 10 and

11 o’clock and the fusée be-

tween 1 and 2 o’clock.

The watch is set on a

brown rubber-lined leather al-

ligator strap with an 18ct pink

gold folding clasp. This is a limited

edition of 150 pieces.

Zenith has occupied the same

premises in Le Locle since its establish-

ment in 1865.

the aviation connectionBreitling is the offi cial supplier to world aviation

and its new Chronoliner has been confi rmed

by the Contrôle Offi ciel Suisse des

Chronomètres (COSC – the Offi cial

Swiss Chronometer Testing Insti-

tute) as a chronometer.

Like all Breitling chronographs,

it upholds the brand’s long-

standing aeronautical tradi-

tion in a spirit that is both

modern and timeless. Its dis-

tinctive features are a broad,

high-tech, scratch-resistant

bezel with a star-shaped cut-

out to facilitate handling, as well

as white ceramic numbers which

provide optimum contrast.

The second time-zone is easily

read off via a red-tipped hand,

together with a 24-hour graduated

rotating bezel equipped with an ultra-

accurate ratcheted system. The black dial is

distinguished by its perfect readability, white

translucent oversized hour-markers and a

luminescent centre counter-hand standing out

against the black background.

Functions are date, hours, min-

utes, seconds, quarter-seconds and

a monophase chronograph with

30-minute totaliser and a 24-

hour time-zone display. The

48 mm case is polished steel,

the bi-directional ratcheted

bezel is black ceramic and

the cambered crystal has

anti-refl ective treatment on

both sides. It is mounted on

a black leather strap or the

brand’s Ocean Classic steel mesh

or a crocodile-leather strap. This

timepiece is water-resistant to 100 m.

The brand’s Transocean Chrono-

graph 1915 has a mechanical hand-

wound movement and is also COSC-

certifi ed as a chronometer. At a time when

chronographs had only one push-piece in

the crown, Breitling claims to have invented

the fi rst independent push-piece at 2 o’clock,

ensuring a better separation of functions,

as well as adapting more naturally to the us-

er’s hand. To celebrate the centenary of this

milestone – an invention that would change

the face of the modern chronograph – the

brand has introduced this re-designed model

in a limited series of 1 915 pieces, equipped

with a new hand-wound mechanical mono-

pusher movement featuring a double-column

wheel system.

In a choice of 38-43 mm steel case, it has a

transparent crystal back and a vintage-inspired

dial. The steel case incorporates the famous

1915 push-piece re-designed and integrated in

a way which further enhances its functionality.

This is a collector’s item with 33 jewels,

28 800 vibrations per hour, a minimum power

reserve of 70 hours and a steel case inscribed

with “100th anniversary 1915-2015”. The dial

is mercury silver with luminescent numerals and

the historic Breitling signature. distinguished by its perfect readability, white

This season, Pandora pays tribute to the beauty

of a garden bursting into life with elements of

nature and blossoms.

The daisy is reinterpreted in a cool, contem-

porary way that references spring’s top catwalk

looks, with bright clusters of these delicate fl ow-

ers portrayed in its statement designs.

World-renowned for its high quality and

hand-fi nished jewellery at affordable prices,

Pandora designs, manufactures and markets

modern jewellery made from genuine materials.

Pandora’s unique and detailed designs,

combining traditional craftsmanship with

modern technology, are sold in more than 90

countries across six continents through ap-

proximately 9 900 points of sale, including

more than 1 400 concept stores. Founded

in 1982 and headquartered in Copenhagen,

Denmark, Pandora is publicly listed on the

nASDAQ OMX Copenhagen stock exchange.

25SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

BRAND MANAGEMENT

morellato – it’s all about the quality The Morellato group, with headquarters in

Padua and Milan, is one of the most success-

ful and renowned Italian companies in the

fi eld of watch bands, jewellery, watches and

jewellery cases.

The historic activity of the group is the

production of watch bands and today Morellato

is a worldwide leader in this fi eld. The company

was founded in Bologna in 1930 by the great

pioneer, Giulio Morellato. Born into a family

of artisans specialising in the manufacture

of footwear and watches, he created each

watch band with great passion and impeccable

quality, drawing on his family tradition for the

expertise he required.

After Morellato’s death in 1965, his closest

collaborator – Silvano Carraro – took charge of

the company. In the following years, through

a series of important marketing operations, it

became the leading producer of watch bands in

the European market. In 1990, Carraro handed

the business over to his sons, Massimo and

Marco, who still head it.

As a European leader in the market of

spare parts, Morellato has always established

consolidated partnerships with the most im-

portant watchmakers. In fact, it offers a

unique combination of craftsmanship with

modern production techniques. Morellato’s

laboratories are avant-garde structures in

which materials and watch bands are tested in

the strictest ways.

All its watch bands are completely hand-

made, from the cutting of the hides to the

stitching. Its styling offi ce works closely with its

clients’ designers in order to fully understand

and satisfy every requirement.

The selection of leather, fabric and other

innovative materials is made with extreme

care. Indeed, since its inception, Morellato has

operated closely with the best Italian and Eu-

ropean tanneries.

Morellato’s quality control laboratories are

among the most advanced in Europe. Each

production phase is constantly monitored and

the group is a member of the Leather, Skins &

Leather Goods Technical Commission of the

Italian Organisation for Standardisation, an as-

sociation working closely with the Experimental

Station for the Leather Industry & Tanning Prod-

ucts in naples. In this way, consistent quality in

leather is ensured around the country.

Morellato’s production and logistical struc-

ture in China allows the brand to offer clients

products of the same high standards for which

it is known in Europe. All watch bands pro-

duced in China undergo the same stringent

quality controls employed in Italy.

famous check design extended to timepiecesA ladies’ interpretation named the Britain

Icon Check, for women using the famous

check motif in polished and brushed 18ct pink

gold and a 38 mm case, has its bezel set with

124 diamonds (0,868ct). It has a storm grey

mother-of-pearl dial set with 245 diamonds

(1,163ct). The diamonds magnify the design by

being encrusted in double rows. Its mechanical

automatic movement has a brand-new “swan’s

neck” calibre and 26 jewels. The vibrations are

similarly 28 800 per hour, the bridges adorned

with the check motif.

Functions are hours, minutes and seconds,

while the sapphire crystal is also scratch-

resistant and anti-refl ective. The motif is hand-

set in a precious hand-woven check pattern on

the dial. This watch is water-resistant to 50 m

and is a limited edition. Other versions can be

made exclusively to order.

British fashion label Burberry is distinguished

by the iconic check design which appears on

the lining of its trench coat, created in the

1920s and recognised the world over. The

brand has now introduced a timepiece for

men which reiterates this motif.

In a 45 mm anthracite, DLC-treated titanium

polished and brushed case, the face of the

watch is covered with a similarly treated grid

pattern which serves as the timepiece’s open-

work dial and affords a tantalising glimpse

of the movement and the Cores de Genève

decoration. With this movement, crafted with

Swiss watchmaking expertise and combined

with the best of British design, the collection

is limited to 20 pieces. The movement is

mechanically hand-wound, has 17 jewels and

vibrates at 28 800 vibrations per hour.

Functions are hours, minutes and seconds.

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has anti-

refl ective treatment and the watch is water-

resistant to 100 m. It is set on a black alligator

leather strap with a folding buckle.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

Contact Adri Viviers on 084-261-1805 or [email protected]

27SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

MARKETPLACE

28

time a stone house along a bend in the river.

This house is pivotal in the history of the envi-

rons. The farm was divided and sub-divided by

Elsa’s sons and daughter. She died in 1948 and

her gravestone is still there.

It is not clear when the search for gold

ceased, but it is known that the Wilhelmis’

daughter Freya was more interested in her

by then small farm and the balance of the

property was acquired by the gold Mining

group. The names of successive owners of

the land are well documented, as it eventually

developed from farmland into a residential

area, but links with its historic past were

maintained in naming the dirt track which

eventually became Road 202.

It was not until February 1975 that a metal

nameplate at the corner of Shiel Ave – which

is now Coleraine Drive – and Roan Close was

erected in a formal ceremony conducted by

the then Mayor of Sandton, Councillor Bill

Hedding, Major Reuben Sive, Chairman of the

Sandton Historical Association and resident

Len Fisher – and Panners Lane was officially

named. It was first tarred in 1980.

We do, indeed, live in the presence of

history.

Just a few kilometres from the sandton cbD in the Johannes-burg suburb of riverclub is a quiet residential road signposted “Panners lane”, where the offices of isikhova, publisher of SAJN, are situated. this is the story of that road and how it came by its

name – redolent as it is of the early days of the discovery of gold in sa. it’s a well-documented heritage site which

was at first open veld, then a dirt road named road 202 on rudimentary maps and, ultimately, Panners lane. alice weil looks at its historic past.

COnTRARy TO THE gEnERAL BELIEF THAT THE

Witwatersrand yielded the first signs of gold in

1852 on the farm Paardekraal (Krugersdorp) –

a secret kept by the government of the time

to avoid an influx of “uitlander” prospectors

(foreigners of two decades earlier, in 1834,

to be more precise), a hunter is said to have

discovered traces of alluvial gold in the Jukskei

River near the confluence of the Crocodile River.

(It was not until 1886 that George Harrison

discovered the main reef of the Witwatersrand.)

Alluvial gold is deposited by water move-

ment and is essentially primary gold broken

down by weathering

and erosion and trans-

ported by the movement

of water through gul-

lies and streams, creeks

or rivers, or by gravity, over many millennia of

geological time. Wherever such gold is found,

there is a likelihood of finding more in the area

and there could well be a primary source of it

nearby. These deposits are generally in angular,

irregularly-shaped nuggets. Larger nuggets are

more commonly found near the source of

the gold and smaller ones down

the slope.

Panning for this form

of gold is the oldest and

simplest method of gold

mining. It extracts the

metal from a placer

deposit using a pan. It

was first used in ancient

Rome, where the pre-

cious metal was extracted

from streams and mountain-

sides using sluices and then pan-

ning. But productivity by this method is

slow and it was later replaced by more sophis-

ticated capital equipment. Once a prospector

has decided on the likelihood of a placer de-

posit, the next step is to scoop gravel into the

pan and gently agitate this in water. The gold

will eventually sink to the bottom of the pan.

The history of Panners Lane and the

Driefontein farm, which played a vital role in

the development of the area, is bound up with

the arrival of the earliest hunters, settlers and

prospectors who crossed the Vaal River in the

1830s and ’40s. At the time when the country

was known as the South African Republic, a

prospector named Pieter Jacob Marais travelled

between Potchefstroom (then its capital) and

what is now Pretoria and stopped to pan for

gold. In October 1863, he wrote in his journal:

“Found some gold on a farm on the Klein Jukskei

River.” The farm was named as Zandfontein –

now Sandton Central – and had a very short

The story of a road

SA JEWELLERY NEWS – APRIL 2015

LITTLE GEMS

frontage along the Klein

Jukskei (later known as

the Braamfontein Spruit).

This was close to where

the present-day William Nicol

Highway bridge crosses the spruit.

Among the rudimentary allocations

of land in the area made by the early settlers to

themselves are a string of names. If an allocation

involved demarcating a farm, the would-be

owner selected a point and measured the next

point while riding his horse at a walking pace

for 1,5 hours, then measured the next point

while riding for a further 1,5 hours. He did

this again, riding at right angles, to establish

a third point. It was not until a Deeds Office

was established in Pretoria in 1859 that the

allocation of land was formalised.

The original Driefontein farm was estab-

lished in the 1840s and included most of what

is today’s Riverclub, including its golf course,

Bryanston and Randburg. The farm had suc-

cessive owners, but it was German-born Adolf

and Elsa Wilhelmi and their descendants who

are crucial to this story. They built a succession

of houses, initially a corrugated iron shack,

on the side of the Braamfontein Spruit and in