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ISSUE 1: JUNE 2011

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Welcome to Salt, a new magazine for people who are passionate about quality food.

Salt is central to so much of the food we eat and cook, but can also be a little bit controversial and can cause a debate. That is exactly what we want to achieve with our magazine, covering the foundations of food and cookery you would expect, with a little something for you to think about and discuss as well.

Our fantastic team of writers have contributed pieces about the food and experiences they care most about, where they like to go and what they like to eat.

If you’re thinking of treating yourself to an elegant meal out, read Libbie Wallace’s review of the new Japanese restaurant Watatsumi. Or for a relaxed morning coffee and slice of cake Meera Shah has visited Store St Espresso, see what she thought of it on page 6.

For the home cook, our recipe writer Donna Ross has created a seasonal delight of linguine with cockles and asparagus which is incredibly quick and very tasty.

Where do you shop? Are you a supermarket devotee or do you try and shop local? Donna Ross wades into the debate of convenience versus quality and flavour. See if you agree with her piece ‘Are supermarkets a neccessary evil?’

And for the foodie who likes to travel, I have written a piece about Lille in Northern France. Famed for its Flemish heritage, I had a wonderful trip eating and drinking my way through all its culinary delights and putting together my recommendations for a foodie mini-break.

We hope you enjoy it.

Miriam & the team at Salt

Editor’s letter

Miriam Chilton lives in Surrey with her lovely fiancé and as of two weeks ago, three beautiful hens. Her cooking style leans towards France and Italy, favouring the classics over food trends. Devoted to quality produce and simple but effective recipes she does not own a microwave and thinks ready-made mash is the work of the devil.

Meera Shah is the blogger behind Travellers Places. Recently returned to London after two years in Milan where she food-hopped her way through Italy. With family spread across London, South Africa, Kenya and India, travel has been a part of her life from a very young age and she has come across great restaurants and cafes. She reviews one such cafe on page 6.

Donna Ross is an adopted north Londoner having spent 22 years growing up in Scotland subverting stereotype having neither eaten a deep-fried Mars bar nor ever enjoying salt ‘n’sauce on her chips. An avid cookbook reader and aspiring recipe-writer, she shares her culinary adventures on doesntdodishes.com and is always on the lookout for an exciting local product or seasonal treat with which she can experiment.

Libbie Wallace lives to explore new tastes and food experiences, from very simple peasant food to Michelin-starred dining. As a keen cook, she has a particular interest in using quality ingredients to produce great tasting food.

Contributors

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Contents

the small printEdited by Miriam ChiltonSub-edited by Donna RossCover image and title assembled by Joanna LoweLayout by Matt Fenby Taylor and Donna RossPhoto credits: p4-5 via Google images. p6 from everydaylife.style http://bit.ly/iPopWS . p10 from Doesn’t Do Dishes http://bit.ly/m57Ae9Brought to you by the power of Bacon Ipsum http://baconipsum.com/

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The travelling foodie: Lille................................................................................... 4Review: Store St Espresso.................................................................................... 6Review: High end Japanese or just another restaurant serving Japanese food?........................................................................................................ 7Are supermarkets a neccessary evil?............................................................... 8What do I do with....cockles?.............................................................................10

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No trip to France is complete without a wander through a local market, it’s the best way to find out what’s in season and see what the locals are buying. I never plan lunch when visiting a market, because no matter what plans I had I would always rather dine on an assortment of the market’s offerings: some munched as I wander around, the rest diligently tucked away for a picnic lunch. The Saturday market in Place Sebastapol was my favourite of Lille’s markets, where in addition to a crêpe sucre (the obligatory market snack) I also discovered the joy of the local gaufres a la vergeoise (Belgian waffles filled with sugary paste).

Rue Esquermoise is a highlight for any patisserie lover. For those willing to spend some extra Euros on a true culinary work of art then Patisserie Meert,

which also houses a chocolaterie, is the place for you. But those travelling

on a budget are far from hard done by; the road is full of patiserries and

boulangeries each with a captivating window display

of cakes and breads.

If you are after some exploring between meals then take in

a walk around the old town, where you get a true sense of

Lille’s heritage. The Citadel, a five-sided fortification to the North-West of

the town has limited tours but has a beautiful park surrounding it and is a definite contender for the best picnic location the town has to offer. Even if you don’t like fish I strongly recommend a visit to A l’Huitiere (3 rue des Chats bossus) the town’s elaborately decorated fish monger and fabulous restaurant, even if only to admire the beautiful art deco tiles.

The travelling foodie: LilleMiriam spends three days in the Northern French town exploring what it can offer the travelling gastronome

Chicken baked in a maroilles sauceServes two, takes about an hour (preparation and cooking)2 chicken thigh portions25g unsalted butter25g plain flour600ml whole milk100g maroilles cheese, crumbled

Fry the chicken thighs for about five minutes until golden, the n put each in an individual earthenware dish.

Make a cheese sauce by melting the butter in a saucepan over a gentle heat, then stir in the flour and cook for a couple of minutes until frothy. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the milk, a little at a time, stirring briskly as you go, until you achieve a smooth sauce.

Return the pan to the heat and stir continuously until it thickens (about 10 minutes). Then add the cheese and stir until melted, season well.

Pour the sauce over the two thighs and bake in the oven at 190C for 40 minutes. Serve with frites and a green salad.

*If you cannot get gold of maroilles, try Reblochon or Limburger

For a taste of Lille at home

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I have always considered fondue a bit of a fad food. So I was rather apprehensive when my friend (a Lille resident) said we were to dine at a fromagerie restaurant that specialised in fondue, Le Broc, (17 Place Béthune). And it really was a fondue dinner, we didn’t bother with the starters or desserts, just gorged ourselves on liquid cheese. Bloody tasty liquid cheese it was too. The best of which being the ‘Normandie’ which had calvados stirred through it and came with slices of granny smith to dunk. A very tasty, if heavy dinner and the shot of juniper heavy Genievre eau de vie was a very welcome palate cleanser at the end of the meal.

Thankfully Lille hasn’t become too overrun with “tourist trap” restaurants, but my cynical advice is still to avoid anywhere that has a menu in English. When eating out remember you’re on French time: the lunches are long (no 20 minute in and out here) and the dinners late, few book a table before nine. It is a young town, full of students, and the bars are open late if you’re in the mood for a post-

dinner tipple, most people favouring the fantastic local beer. Bars are all over the place (it is a student town afterall), but head towards the Grand Place for something lively and to the old town for something more authentic.

I deem it obligatory to come home with a hoard of foodie souvernirs when I travel and was determined to stock up on the fabulous local beers and cheeses before I left. Les Vins Gourmands (33, Rue Esquermoise) has an extensive range of alcoholic delights, but go down the winding stairs and you’ll find yourself in what can only be described as a beer cave. For your cheeses Les Bons Paturages (345 Rue Léon Gambetta ) is a must.

A thoroughly enjoyable few days, Lille is definitely worth a visit if you are a foodie who likes to travel. However, if you are not a fan of cheese and beer you may want to re-think your travel plans!

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Good things can come out of missed opportunities. Having turned up to a breakfast event one day late, I had to make the most of my early morning presence in a part of London I hardly ever go to. Just a few metres from the Senate House near Goodge Street, I discovered Store St Espresso.

From the moment I entered I was sold. Manu Chao playing in the background, a clean white minimalist deco that was warm and inviting, concrete floor complemented by metal lamps and wooden tables. There was a sense of calm and peace on entering. No one shouting tall skinny latte or grande americano, no one pushing and rushing and no FTs and blackberrys making up the makeup of this little gem.

Things are slow at Store St Espresso and that is why you go there. You patiently wait for your fresh macchiato or roasted vegetable pastry garnished with feta and perhaps read your book whilst things are made freshly for you. I was surprised by the number of people who actually took the time to sit

down, enjoy their coffee and read. That is the way breakfast should be had. I went at 8am when it was quiet. I assume this place gets quite busy during the lunch hour.

I have yet to try the coffee. I am sure that even if the friendly staff at Store St Espresso can’t do a marocchino, a regular cappuccino will be good.So would I go again? Absolutely. Would I take a detour to work just to have the lemon polenta cake and enjoy a good quality tea in the calmness of this cafe? Yes!

Store St Espresso, 40 Store Street, London WC1E 7DB, 020 7637 2623

Review: Store St. EspressoIf only there were more cafes like this in London, laments Meera Shah

Looking for more places to get your caffeine fix?

Prufrock, 23-25 Leather Lane, EC1N 7TECoffee-making paraphanalia and quality beans abound.Caravan, 11-13 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QDIn-house roasting gives this brunch hangout the edge. Best cappucino in London? We think so.

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Set in the prestigious Club Quarters Hotel near Trafalgar Square, Watatsumi, a new high end Japanese restaurant, has opened. The head chef, Paul Makohus, a former chef at Nobu, has created a menu using traditional Japanese ingredients and techniques with contemporary flavour combinations.

The small bar in the restaurant is a perfect place to start the evening, allowing time to admire the chandelier depicting a shoal of fish, watch the preparations at the sushi bar and soak up the Japanese elegance.

The waiters were friendly and attentive enough to allow for the British reserve and as it was our first experience at Watatsumi, we decided to go with the Omakase (tasting menu), which was recommended to experience the breadth of the menu. This menu boasted seven courses, so I was looking forward to a taste indulgence.

The highlights of the Omakase were the Roasted Black Cod and Wagu Beef with wasabi pepper sauce. The rest of the courses were tasty, but I have to say nothing out of the ordinary, especially the dessert. As the Japanese traditionally don’t have dessert, why try and Anglisise the menu to the detriment to the cuisine - cheesecake topped with summer fruits was a real let down.

The staff were knowledgeable and eager to please and with little else around to offer a quiet elegant meal around Trafalgar Square, this is a place worth noting. However, having experienced the Omakase, I would recommend future patrons to order off the A La Carte menu and ask for recommendations, as this is a far more economical way to experience the menu.

Bill for two: £205.00(Aperitif, Omakase each and a bottle of wine)

Watatsumi7 Northumberland AvenueTrafalgar SquareLondon WC2N 5BY

0207 036 8520

High end Japanese, or just another restaurant serving Japanese food?Libbie Wallace visits Watatsumi, a contemporary take on Japanese cuisine

Hungry for more? Salt recommends:

Chisou4 Princes Street, W1B 2LEUnpretentious Isakaya-style restaurant within striking distance of the culinary desert of Oxford Street. Sit at the counter to watch the sushi chef at work.

Tagima-Tei9 Leather Lane, EC1N 7STTraditional restaurant specilising in sashimi. Don’t let the language barrier put you off - the waitresses will help you make the right choices. Excellent selection of sake.

And if you’re wandering further afield:

IseW56th St. (Between 5th & 6th), NYCA haven in Midtown. Excellent bento for lunch and fuller fare for dinner, all at a very reasonable price.

Ouchi Sushi2-8-4 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, TokyoA traditional but friendly sushi and sashimi restaurant. Try not to flinch at the price - Ouchi-san’s dedication to his art results in an outstanding selection more than worthy of 12,000 ¥.

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Shopping for food can be a soulless and simple transaction: go to supermarket, place items in trolley, pay, leave. The choice of shops on your local High Street probably leaves you no other option. The closest supermarket wins the fight for our custom, and we try to buy as much as we need in as little time as possible, throwing the same items into our trolleys and getting the experience over and done with as quickly as possible. Even more so if you’ve got kids in tow. But they’re distancing us from the food we eat, and not just by shrink-wrapping everything in plastic. Under the fluorescent glare of the high street giants, it seems always to be summer with few changes on the shelf to tell you what time of year it is.

What else can we do? The decline of the British High Street means that having a road of butchers, bakers, fishmongers and grocers all within walking distance of home belongs in the “Ey, when I were a lad…” recollections of your grandparents along with rationing and beef tea. The government may have challenged Mary Portas to find ways to give us all High Streets we can be proud of, but for many businesses it’s too late.

Those of us lucky enough to still have a local high street where such shops have survived the cull and who are keen to avoid lining the pockets of Messers Sainsbury and Waitrose often find that a supporting these fading trades costs more, and let’s be honest, is less convenient that one shop with all your household needs under one roof. Shopping takes time, a commodity often as scarce as an apprentice butcher.

But are there alternatives? Farmers’ markets have boomed in Britain since they popped up in 1997 and London alone boasts 19. But most open for a just a few hours, typically from late morning on a Saturday or Sunday, so aren’t a practical alternative for everyone.

The home-delivered box scheme has filled that gap for many households, with Abel and Cole and Riverford Organic leading the charge in helping

Britain eat more and better vegetables by delivering their organic boxes of fruit and veg to thousands of doorsteps each week. Their models of seasonal produce, no air freighting, low packaging and British-where-possible have been the saviour to many of us keen to eat more healthily and support small British producers. But a clearer conscience is not cheap. Being organic, most box schemes cost significantly more than the same vegetables bought locally, and having the contents pre-determined for you can mean some inevitably find their way onto the compost heap, or send you quite mad, desperate to find something different to do with your tenth kohlrabi of the winter.

One solution is a hybrid of the two: the local vegetable delivery scheme. Some farms have capitalised on the increased interest in eating local, seasonal produce and run their own small-scale delivery schemes to supplement their presence at farmer’s markets or their own farm shops. Buying directly from small-scale producers can deliver much better value for money and a smaller carbon footprint than deliveries originating from a national network of warehouses. Some have teamed up with other local producers to combine forces and can offer a range of vegetables, meat and dairy items, providing a more well-rounded service and fulfil more of your weekly shop.

A little local research will go a long way. Start at your local farmers’ market and ask your favourite stall-holders if they run any kind of delivery service. Or they might be part of a larger, yet still local, box scheme like Growing Communities based in Hackney, east London.

Are supermarkets a necessary evil?Donna Ross considers if there really is a viable option to the weekly not-so-supermarket shop

List of local organic box schemes:http://bit.ly/jhSnpohttp://bit.ly/il8Kud

Abel and Cole: www.abelandcole.co.ukRiverford Organic: www.riverford.co.ukGrowing Communities: www. growingcommunities.orgFarm Direct: www.farm-direct.com

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Growing Communities have run a successful community-led box scheme for over a decade, as well as running the Stoke Newington Farmers’ Market, the only all-organic weekly marketing Britain. They are now sharing their knowledge and expertise with other communities keen to establish their own sustainable, local box schemes.

Other services like Islington-based Farm Direct bring together local producers into a single delivery and collection service and bring the farm shop experience to the city. Established just under two years ago, Farm Direct works with farms and small-scale producers to bring local, seasonal food to north London. Although the majority of the weekly produce is from farmers and growers in Essex, Kent and Hertfordshire, some producers are from slightly further afield: freshly caught fish from Helston in Cornwall, dairy products and handmade cheeses from Hurdlebrook and Ivy House dairies in Somerset, Wardhall Dairy in Cumbria, and Isle of Wight producers The Tomato Stall, and The Garlic Farm providing, well, tomatoes and garlic.

Seeing a gap in the market between the constrictions of the bigger box schemes and the short operating hours of farmers’ markets, Robert Barker set up Farm Direct to allow customers to place orders on their website during the week, then either have it delivered over the weekend or collect their box from the Islington depot, which sells the rest of that week’s produce to those passing by. By dealing with his customers in person means their ideas for new fruit and vegetables to grow, as well as more unusual cuts of meat have helped shape the variety of products offered.

Selling produce only from Britain means it’s irrefutably seasonal and as local as possible. Not only does this minimise food miles but more importantly, means it’s incredibly fresh. Vegetables have often been dug the morning the boxes are packed, and fish is driven up overnight to be on your plate the day after it was landed.

This selling point is also the greatest challenge: the hungry gap in Britain can reduce even the most committed environmentalist to a gibbering wreck, unable to contemplate one more dish involving potatoes and cabbage. By building a relationship

with the farmers Robert has been able to work with his suppliers to develop as wide a variety of vegetables and stored fruit as possible to keep customers interested through the dark days of March and April until the delights of new season asparagus, Jersey Royals, broad beans, rhubarb begin in May.

And I suppose that’s my point. Every fruit and vegetable, and some meat and fish has a season and buying locally begins to put us back in touch with the natural ebbs and flows of the British growing seasons. Eating foods at the right time has benefits for our health, but just as importantly, benefits small British producers who can often struggle to compete with the very large-scale farms, or get ripped off by the appalling purchasing power the big supermarkets wield, and find there’s little profit to be had in dealing with them.

Supermarkets certainly have their place and sell things you simply can’t get anywhere else. Our diets would be interminably dull without lemons, limes and oranges, spices, herbs and oils, tea, coffee and sugar. But for those things that you can buy locally, do. It’s good for you, it’s good for the planet, and it’s good for those trying to make a living keeping the British farming industry alive.

Salt tops up its weekly shop at:

Parsons Nose (88 Lower Richmond Road SW15 1LL; 0208 788 6160) is a family owned butcher offering a selection of free range meat catering for all needs from a succulent shoulder of lamb to homemade sausages for the children’s supper, plus a wide selection of marinated meat for quick and easy dining.

The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and of course enjoy a bit of banter with the customers, whilst offering any helpful advice when needed. With their extended opening hours, until 7pm Wednesday to Friday, and opening Saturday and Sunday, making it easier for busy people to buy quality meat from a local butcher.

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Linguine with cockles and asparagusServes 2Prep time: 5-10 minutesCooking time: 15 minutes

1 onion, diced500g cockles, rinsed well under running cold water100ml white wine150g linguine or other long pasta250g asparagus, cut into 3cm lengths2 tbsp double cream

1. Start the onion frying in a slug of olive or rapeseed oil over a low heat.2. While the onion is frying, add the cockles to a saucepan along with the wine and with the lid on, cook over a medium-high heat for 5 minutes until all the cockles have opened. If any are closed, give it another minute or two of cooking time, but then fish them out and throw those ones away.3. Use a fine sieve placed over a bowl to drain the cockles and catch any stray bits of grit. Don’t throw the liquid away though: this is the base for your

sauce. Remove the cockle meat from about two thirds of the shells and place both the naked and be-shelled cockles to one side for now.

4. Rinse out the cockle pan and use to cook your pas-ta. If you set a timer for the pasta countdown now, it will make it easier to tell when to add the asparagus. If not, devise a way of knowing when the pasta has three minutes of cooking time left.

5. Add the cockle cooking liquid to the fried onions along with the cream, and gently cook to reduce and thicken the sauce a little while your pasta finishes cooking.

6. With three minutes to go, add the asparagus to the pasta and raise the heat briefly to bring it back to the boil. When the pasta and asparagus are ready, drain, keeping a little pasta water in the pan, and toss the asparagus, pasta and pasta water with the sauce. Add the cockles and gently mix to distribute the cockles and serve.

Plentiful around the British coastline all year round cockles are a sustainable shellfish choice, and are quick to cook

What do I do with...cockles?

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