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SATELLITE APPLICATIONS TO SEA STATE
EVALUATION IN ENCLOSED SEAS
Pugliese Carratelli E., CUGRI and University of Salerno, [email protected]
Chapron B., IFREMER, Brest, [email protected]
Dentale F., University of Salerno, [email protected]
Reale F., University of Salerno, [email protected]
Spulsi G., CUGRI Salerno, Italy, [email protected]
Palermo, October 7th – 9th 2008
Site wave climate analysis is based on
Global Weather Model archive data
(Local Area Model)
+
Wave Generation and Propagation Model
(Coastal Wave model)
+
Wave buoys, where available
Satellite altimeter
Altimeter data are now routinely assimilated into wave models
Altimeter/buoy (wind, waves) data calibration: 1988 (Monaldo)
Altimeter/Model comparison:
2006 ( Abdalla & Cavaleri)
(2007) (Ardhuin, Bertotti, Bidlot, Cavaleri, Filipetto, Lefevre, Wittmann)
Model vs. Buoy
Still considerable scatter
On a large scale
Cavaleri and Sclavo
Coastal Engineering 53 (2006) 613–627
Cavaleri and Sclavo. Coastal Engineering 53 (2006) 613–627
You could correct model results with satellite data, but…
It is worth to analysing single events with the help of altimeter data
Cavaleri and Sclavo. Coastal Engineering 53 (2006) 613–627
… there would still be a considerable scatter
December 1999
Thyrrenian Sea
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
23_0
0
23_0
6
23_1
2
23_1
8
24_0
0
24_0
6
24_1
2
24_1
8
25_0
0
25_0
6
25_1
2
25_1
8
26_0
0
26_0
6
26_1
2
26_1
8
27_0
0
27_0
6
27_1
2
27_1
8
28_0
0
28_0
6
28_1
2
28_1
8
29_0
0
29_0
6
29_1
2
29_1
8
30_0
0
Tempo
Hs (
cm
)
Ponza buoy Cetraro buoy ECMWF Ponza ECMWF Cetraro
a bb a b
a) SAR Frame 2781 26/12/1999 time 09:54
b) SAR Frame 801 29/12/1999 time 21:17
a) ERS-2 STR 079 26/12/1999 time 09:55
b) ERS-2 STR 086 26/12/1999 time 21:11
a) TOPEX STR 120 28/12/1999 time 06:48
b) TOPEX STR 122 29/12/1999 time 10:00
a
Ponza buoy
Cetraro buoy
WAVE HS
Co-located in space
Embedded Swan grid
MM5 Wind time
28/12/1999 alle
ore 18:00
Cycle 268 Pass-120
28/12/1999 Time 06:48
0
1
2
3
4
5
39.023298 39.514033 40.052336 40.685927
Latitudine (Gradi)
Waves h
igh
t (m
)
ECMWF Topex Banda C " Cetraro buoy" Swan time 06:00
TOPEX STR-120 (06:48) 28/12/1999
versus ECMWF (06:00), ECMW/SWAN ( 06:00) and buoy ( 06:00)
Cetraro buoy
WAVE HS
Co-located in space
Co-location on a lee shore poor
SWAN “Interpolates” better
Cycle 268 Pass-120
28/12/1999 Time 06:48
SWAN
1.000
1.500
2.000
2.500
3.000
3.500
4.000
4.500
40.296
40.199
40.101
40.003
39.906
39.808
39.710
39.612
39.514
39.416
39.318
39.220
39.122
39.023
38.925
38.827
38.728
Latitudine (°)
Wa
ve
s h
igh
t (m
)
Topex SWAN
TOPEX STR-120 (ore 06:48) versus ECMWF/SWAN (ore 06:00)
28/12/1999
Cetraro buoy
Co-located in latitude
Wind/Waves (Ku,C) Topex
CYCLE 268 PASS 120 28/12/1999 TIME 06:48
0.000
0.500
1.000
1.500
2.000
2.500
3.000
3.500
4.000
4.500
40.1
9886
5
40.1
5003
6
40.1
0119
3
40.0
5233
6
40.0
0346
6
39.9
5458
3
39.9
0568
6
39.8
5677
5
39.8
0785
2
39.7
5891
5
39.7
0996
5
39.6
6100
2
39.6
1202
5
39.5
6303
6
39.5
1403
3
39.4
6501
7
39.4
1598
9
39.3
6694
7
39.3
1789
3
39.2
6882
6
39.2
1974
6
39.1
7065
3
39.1
2154
7
39.0
7242
9
39.0
2329
8
38.9
7415
5
38.9
2499
9
38.8
7583
0
38.8
2664
9
38.7
7745
5
38.7
2824
9
Latitudine [°]
Waves h
igh
t [m
]
0.000
2.000
4.000
6.000
8.000
10.000
12.000
14.000
16.000
18.000
Win
d s
peed
[m
/s]
Waves hight (m) Waves hight (m) Wind speed (m/s)
Vento
Banda C
Banda Ku
Cetraro buoy
11,5
22,5
33,5
44,5
55,5
6
40,5
06
40,0
46
39,5
29
39,0
11
38,5
50
Latitudine (°)
Wa
ve
s h
igh
t (m
)
ERS-2 ECMWF time 12 ECMWF time 06
Track 122 Orbit 24525
29/12/1999 Time 10:11
Confronto dati ERS-2** STR-122 (ore 10:11) del 29/12/1999
con i dati dell'ECMWF (ore 06:00 e ore 12:00)
(No buoy data -too far)
Waves
Co-located in space
(not time)
E1E2
E1) ENVISAT1 Ascendente 20/03/08 ore 20:44 N1p0085C067
E2) ENVISAT1 Discendente 23/03/08 ore 09:36 N1p0158C067
E4
E4) ENVISAT1 Discendente 26/03/08 ore 09:42 N1p0244C067
E5
E5) ENVISAT1 Discendente 29/03/08 ore 09:47 N1p0330C067E6
E6) ENVISAT1 Discendente 01/04/08 ore 09:53 N1p0416C067
E3
E3) ENVISAT1 Ascendente 23/03/08 ore 20:30 N1p0171C067
Griglia
0.5° x 0.5°
Boa di Cetraro
J1 J2
J3J4
J1) JESON 1 Discendente 26/03/08 ore 16:20 p0044c229
J2) JESON 1 Discendente 29/03/08 ore 15:33 p0120c229
J3) JESON 1 Ascendente 27/03/08 ore 06:23 p0059c229
J4) JESON 1 Discendente 03/04/08 ore 05:10 p0237c229
0.00
1.00
2.00
3.00
4.00
5.00
6.00
20_00
20_12
21_00
21_12
22_00
22_12
23_00
23_12
24_00
24_12
25_00
25_12
26_00
26_12
27_00
27_12
28_00
28_12
29_00
29_12
30_00
30_12
31_00
31_12
Time
Wa
ves
Hig
ht
(m)
Hs ECMWF HS Cetraro
E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6J1 J2 J3
J4
March-April 2008
Thyrrenian Sea
End of buoy
Data
E2
0.003.006.009.00
12.0015.00
39.4
83835
39.3
53073
39.2
22298
39.0
91511
38.9
60712
38.8
29901
38.6
99077
38.5
68242
38.4
37395
38.3
06536
Latitudine (°)
Win
d s
peed (
m/s
) Wind Ecmwf time 6 Ecmwf time 12
E2) ENVISAT1 Discendente
23/03/08 time 09:36 N1p0158C067
WIND –
ENVISAT (09:36) 23/03/2008
versus ECMWF (06:00,12.00)
E2
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
39.4
8383
5
39.3
5307
3
39.2
2229
8
39.0
9151
1
38.9
6071
2
38.8
2990
1
38.6
9907
7
38.5
6824
2
38.4
3739
5
38.3
0653
6
Latitudine (°)
Wa
ve
hig
ht (m
)
Hs [C] Ecmwf time 6 Ecmwf time 12
Cetraro Buoy 06:00 Cetraro Buoy 12:00
Cetraro Buoy
E2) ENVISAT1 Discendente
23/03/08 time 09:36 N1p0158C067
WAVES
ENVISAT (09:36) 23/03/2008
versus ECMWF (06:00,12.00), and buoy ( 06:00,09:00,12:00)
Waves
Co-located in space
(not time)
ENVISAT
It is worth while using altimeter
data to cross check model resultsbut there is more…
It is worth while using altimeter
data to cross check model results
but there is more to say about sub-grid scale…
Most of the time wave buoys confirm altimeter data
often altimeter data differ from model data
It is often worth while refining global (or even regional) model results with
Local models (… better interpolation)
y = -0,0286x + 1,4261
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
2,5
3
39.4838
35
39.4184
55
39.3530
73
39.2876
87
39.2222
98
39.1569
06
39.0915
11
39.0261
13
38.9607
12
38.8953
08
38.8299
01
38.7644
90
38.6990
77
38.6336
61
38.5682
42
38.5028
20
38.4373
95
38.3719
67
38.3065
36
Latitudine (°)
Waves h
igh
t (m
)
media=1.14
sqm=0.18
E2
Cetraro Buoy
E2) ENVISAT1 Discendente
23/03/08 time 09:36 N1p0158C067
Gustyness?
!?
Coefficient of
variation
σ/μ = 0,160,16
WAVES
ENVISAT (09:36) 23/03/2008
y = 0.0148x + 5.4954
0
3
6
9
12
15
39.4
8383
5
39.3
5307
3
39.2
2229
8
39.0
9151
1
38.9
6071
2
38.8
2990
1
38.6
9907
7
38.5
6824
2
38.4
3739
5
38.3
0653
6
Latitudine (°)
Wid
sp
ee
d (
m/s
)
Media=5.64
S.q.m=0.87
E2
Cetraro Buoy
E2) ENVISAT1 Discendente
23/03/08 time 09:36 N1p0158C067
Wind
Gustyness?
!?
Coefficient of
variation
σ/μ = 0,15
Wind
ENVISAT (09:36) 23/03/2008
J2 p0120c229 (29/03/08 – time 15:33)
y = 0,0082x + 0,9599
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
2,5
3
40,4
9344
40,4
0125
40,3
09
40,2
167
40,1
2435
40,0
3196
39,9
3951
39,8
4701
39,7
5446
39,6
6186
39,5
6922
39,4
7652
39,3
8378
39,2
9099
39,1
9815
39,1
0526
39,0
1233
38,9
1934
38,8
2632
38,1
1026
Latitudine (°)
Waves h
ight (
m)
Hs [Ku]Media = 1.12
S.q.m = 0.18
Cetraro Buoy
Waves JASON 1-fase A
Coefficient of
variation
σ/μ = 0,16
J2 p0120c229 (29/03/08 – time 15:33)
y = -0.0581x + 7.6737
0
3
6
9
12
15
40.4
9344
40.4
0125
40.3
09
40.2
167
40.1
2435
40.0
3196
39.9
3951
39.8
4701
39.7
5446
39.6
6186
39.5
6922
39.4
7652
39.3
8378
39.2
9099
39.1
9815
39.1
0526
39.0
1233
38.9
1934
38.8
2632
38.1
1026
38.0
1684
Latitudine (°)
Win
d S
pe
ed
(m
/s)
Media = 6.33
S.q.m. =1.36
Cetraro Buoy
Wind JASON 1-fase A
Coefficient of
variation
σ/μ = 0,21
J2 p0120c229 (29/03/08 – time 15:33)
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
38.8 39
39.2
39.4
39.6
39.8 40
40.2
40.4
40.6
Latitudine (°)
Waves h
ight
(m)
ECMWF time 12:00 Hs (c) Hs (Ku) ECMWF time 18:00
ECMWF grid
0.5° x 0.5°
Cetraro Buoy No buoy data
Waves JASON 1-fase A
y = 0,0484x + 0,7726
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
2,5
3
38,4
3471
38,5
2795
38,6
2114
38,7
1429
38,8
5392
38,9
4695
39,0
3993
39,1
3287
39,2
2576
39,3
186
39,4
1139
39,5
0413
Latitudine (°)
Wave
s hig
ht
(m)
Hs [Ku]
Media = 1.298
S.q.m. = 0.35
J3 p0059c229 (27/03/08 – time 06:23)
Cetraro Buoy
WAVES JASON 1-fase A
Coefficient of
variation
σ/μ = 0,27
J3 p0059c229 (27/03/08 – time 06:23)
y = 0.2766x + 4.0766
0
3
6
9
12
15
38.43471
38.52795
38.62114
38.71429
38.85392
38.94695
39.03993
39.13287
39.22576
39.3186
39.41139
39.50413
Latitudine (°)
Win
d s
pe
ed
(m
/s)
Media = 7.39
S.q.m. = 1.20
Cetraro Buoy
WIND JASON 1-fase A
Variation
coefficient
σ/μ = 0,16
J3 p0059c229 (27/03/08 – time 06:23)
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
38.3
38.4
38.5
38.6
38.7
38.8
38.9 39
39.1
39.2
39.3
39.4
Latitudine (°)
Waves h
ight
(m)
Hs (c) Hs (Ku) ECMWF time 06:00
Cetraro Buoy
WAVES JASON 1-fase A
(No buoy data)
y = -0.0085x + 2.6944
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
40.4131
29
40.2171
15
40.0210
72
39.8250
00
39.6289
00
39.4327
72
39.2366
16
39.0404
32
38.8442
20
38.6479
82
38.4517
17
38.2554
25
38.0591
07
Latitudine (°)
Wave H
igh
t (m
)
Media = 2.53
S.q.m. = 0.33
WAVES ENVISAT1 Discendente 26/03/08 ore 09:42
E4
Coefficient of
variation
σ/μ = 0,13
WIND ENVISAT1 Discendente 26/03/08 ore 09:42
E4
y = 0,0012x + 7,5075
0
3
6
9
12
15
40.4131
29
40.2171
15
40.0210
72
39.8250
00
39.6289
00
39.4327
72
39.2366
16
39.0404
32
38.8442
20
38.6479
82
38.4517
17
38.2554
25
38.0591
07
Latitudine (°)
Win
d s
peed
(m
/s)
Media = 7.53
S.q.m. = 1.13
variation
coefficient
σ/μ = 0,15
Cavalleri Abdalla JGR vol 107 2002
“Gustyness”
Has been
explored
before
On a larger
scale
And then,
Wind
“smoother”
than
waves
TOPEX PHASE B pass. 118
KISR
KISRKuwait Institute for Scientific Research
Latitudine - Alt.onda (C,Ku)
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
23.5 24 24.5 25 25.5 26 26.5 27 27.5 28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.5Latitudine [°]
Alt
.on
da (
C,K
u)
[m]
Banda CBanda Kulim.inf.zona non influenzatalim.sup.zona non influenzata
22-Dic-2002 ore 22:32:46
Zona influenzata Zona non
influenzata
Zona
influenzata
Ciclo 378
Ciclo 378
Passaggio discendente
Latitudine - Alt.onda (C,Ku)(solo zona di mare)
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
27.4 27.6 27.8 28 28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4Latitudine [°]
Alt
.on
da (
C,K
u)
[m]
Banda C
Banda Ku
BOA
22-Dic-2002 ore 22:32:46
KISR Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research Wavemeter data
Ciclo 384
Passaggio discendente
Latitudine - Alt.onda (C,Ku)(solo zona di mare)
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
27.5 28 28.5 29 29.5Latitudine [°]
Alt
.on
da (
C,K
u)
[m]
Banda CBanda KuBOA
20-Feb-2003 ore 10:23:55
Wavemeter data from
KISR Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research
Ciclo 411
Passaggio discendente
Latitudine - Alt.onda (C,Ku)(solo zona di mare)
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2
27.4 27.6 27.8 28 28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4Latitudine
Alt
.on
da (
C,K
u)
Banda C
Banda KuBOA
15-Nov-2003 ore 03:44:02
Wavemeter data from
KISR Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research
Ciclo 420
Passaggio discendente
Latitudine - Alt.onda (C,Ku)(solo zona di mare)
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
27.6 27.8 28 28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4
Latitudine [°]
Alt
.on
da (
C,K
u)
[m]
Banda CBanda KuBOA
12-Feb-2004 ore 09:30:46
Wavemeter data from
KISR Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research
Latitudine - Alt.onda (C,Ku)(solo zona di mare)
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
27.4 27.6 27.8 28 28.2 28.4 28.6 28.8 29 29.2 29.4Latitudine [°]
Alt
.on
da (
C,K
u)
[m]
Banda CBanda KuBOA
08-Ago-2004 ore 21:04:11
Ciclo 438
Passaggio discendente
Wavemeter data from
KISR Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research
Ciclo 452
Passaggio discendente
Latitudine - Alt.onda (C,Ku)(solo zona di mare)
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.8
0.9
1
1.1
1.2
1.3
1.4
28.85 28.9 28.95 29 29.05 29.1 29.15 29.2 29.25
Latitudine [°]
Alt
.on
da (
C,K
u)
[m]
Banda C
Banda Ku
BOA
25-Dic-2004 ore 16:43:35
Wavemeter data from
KISR Kuwait Institute for Scientific Research
*Synthesized wave data must be taken with a pinch of salt, specially for extreme events
Altimeter data may provide a good check
**It’s worth while using smaller scale (Sub Global ECMWF) wave modelling, specially for near shore locations
***Fluctuations (“Gustyness”) as shown by altimeter data on the scale of a few miles might be more important than
expected
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thank you for useful data and interesting discussion to
KISR (K. Rakha)
APAT (S. Corsini, R. Inghilesi, S. Morucci)
Italian Air Force Meteo Office (R. Tajani)
ESA/ESRIN (J. Benveniste)
Altimeter data from
Radar Altimeter Database System (RADS) http://rads.tudelft.nl/rads/rads.shtml
and through ESA/EO Project 1172 “Remote Sensing of Wave Transformation”
The diver’s tumb
Paestum
(ca. 480-470 BC)
“Sentry” Wave meter
“Virtual” Wave meters
ond.virt.
3
ONDAMETRO PONZA-CETRARO
Dati: H, T, dir
evento estremo
ond.virt.
1
ond.virt.
2……… ond.virt.x
Dir
KH
KT
0
0.365
0.511
5
0.357
0.504
10
0.354
0.501
15
0.351
0.497
…
…
…
……… ……… ond virt
n-1
ond virt
n
DATABASE ONDAMETRI VIRTUALI
……… Sez (x-1)
…
Sez x
H (Tr 5)
5.0
8
H (Tr 50)
7.5
4
H (Tr 100)
8.2
6
Sez (x+1)
…………
DATABASE TRANSETTI
TRASPOSIZIONE GEOGRAFICA
PERICOLOSITA’ Sez x
Hond > H (Tr = 100) P4 - pericolosita' molto
elevata;
H (Tr = 50) < Hond < H (Tr = 100) P3 - pericolosita' alta;
H (Tr = 5) < Hond < H (Tr = 50) P2 - pericolosita' media;
Hond < H (Tr = 5) P1 - pericolosita' bassa. SISTEMA
ALLERTA
DANNO Sez x
danno molto elevato - D4
danno elevato - D3
danno medio - D2
danno moderato - D1
RISCHIO Sez x
rischio molto elevato - R4
rischio elevato - R3
rischio medio - R2
rischio moderato - R1
Fig.14: Individuazione punti di calibrazione su tracce 122 e 272
del radar altimetro RA2 di Envisat