Secret of the Jew_ Chapter 17

7/31/2019 Secret of the Jew_ Chapter 17

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Chapter 19: HOW TO MAKE A MIKVAH

The links below will take you to subsections of this chapter.

Plan Number 1 - General directionsPlan Number 2 - Canvas liningPlan Number 3 - Galvanized sheet metal liningPlan Number 4 - A Mikveh disguised as furniturePlan Number 5 - A collapsible, flexible, folding MikvehPlan Number 6 - Utilizing closet space for a MikvehPlan Number 7 - Permanent, ornamented MikvehsPlan Number 8 - Suggestions for more permanent Mikvehs

Plan Number 1 and general directions

The figure below shows a sincere Jew installing his own Mikvah at the cost of a few dollars and a few hours' labor, while thecommunity is planning for a Mikvah, debating, raising funds, battling imaginary problems, and defeating the principle by de

Figure 1

1. For the convenience of observant Jews, we hereby show how a Mikvah can be installed in different ways in any house.Please be aware also that when referring here to the installation of a Mikvah, we mean both for private family and for publicuse. There is no essential difference between the construction of a public Mikvah and a private one, except for certainconveniences which a public Mikvah may require to suit the conditions, according to the volume of patronage.

2. One does not necessarily have to own a home to have a Mikvah of his own. Usually wherever there are accommodations a family to live there are facilities for a Mikvah.

3. No special mechanic or plumber is needed, unless one desires to give the Mikvah a particularly mechanical finish orornamental appearance.

4. A Mikvah does not necessarily have to be installed at the time of construction of the building, nor is it necessary to have he ground. It can be installed at any time, in any building, or in any room of the building.

5. It does not require any alteration or remodeling, nor does it in any way interfere with the building, save for a few light naila screw in the floor. The making of a Mikvah is as simple as any ordinary light repair around the house.

6. All the construction of a Mikvah consists of is:


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(a) To make a kind of receptacle with a capacity of a little over the required 24 cubic feet of water. The simplest wayis to construct a wooden frame the shape of a box, of any desired form, with no bottom of its own, the floor of thebuilding serving as the bottom of the Mikvah.

(b) A lining to hold water. This lining can be made of roofing paper, canvas, or, for permanency, galvanized sheetmetal.

(c) An outlet at the bottom may be provided for occasional change of water.

(d) Ordinary house water, hot or cold, can be used to fill the Mikvah.

Consult the chapter, "Fundamental Rules of Mikvah" (Chapter 17):See Sec. IV for calculation of proportions, size and form;See Sec. V, in regard to a ready-made receptacle;See Sec. II, Paragraph 3 (e), for the quality of the water;See this chapter, Paragraphs 48 to 51 (below) for how to move and re-install the Mikvah.

This is a summary, in brief, of the whole matter. The rest of this chapter is more or less detailed explanations and helpfulsuggestions.

Plan Number 1 - cost within $5.00

Figure 2. A simple home-made Mikvah. It costsless than $5.00. It answers the financial question;

solves almost all problems. It challenges theloyalty and the sincerity of a Jew.

7. For people who are not mechanically inclined, or to whom the cost is an issue, we shall describe in detail how a properKosher) Mikvah can be simply installed and at a cost of less than five dollars, a price which almost anyone can afford. (Not

The author is an authority on building construction. The plans in this work were carefully considered by him. They have beeried and tested, and proved practicable and dependable.

8. For illustration, we shall take as our Mikvah a box measuring 24 inches wide, by 48 inches long, by 48 inches deep,48"x24"x48", inside measurement). The table below shows the material needed for this project.

For the frame

Item a. 8 pieces 1" stock, 12" wide, 30" long (1" x 12" x 2'6")

Item b. 4 pieces 1" 2" 48" (1" x 2" x 4')Item c. 8 pieces 1" 12" 48" (1" x 12" x 4')

Item d. 2 pieces 1" 6" 48" (1" x 6" x 4')

Total 59 feet at a cost of about 3 cents per foot .............. $1.77

Item e. A box of 6-penny nails ......................................... .10

For the lining

Item f. 72 ft of roofing paper costing about $2 for a roll of 100 ft ... 1.44

For the outlet

Item g. 1 1/2 inch hydrant bib faucet .................................. .50


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Item h. 1 1/2 inch by 3 inch all-threaded galvanized (tank) nipple ..... .10

Item i. 2 1/2 inch lock nuts and 2 fiber washers ....................... .10

Item j. 1 1/2 inch sleeve or coupling .................................. .15

Total .......................................................... $4.16

Add 10% for unforseen expenses or variation in prices .......... .42

Total .......................................................... $4.58

Our comment: These are 1930 prices, and obviously one would pay at least an order of magnitude more nowadays.But you get the idea: it's very inexpensive. It would be hard to claim that building a mikveh is out of reach onaccount of cost.

9. The eight short boards (Item a) serve as the two ends for the frame, four for each end; each of the boards being 12" wide 30" long, when four are put side by side they will form the required dimension of 30" by 48". The four narrow strips, (Item bserve to tie these boards, as hereinafter explained.

10. The eight long boards (Item c) serve as the two sides, making them each 48" by 48". The two narrow boards (Item d) sero bind, reinforce, the sides.

11. You will notice that the ends are 30" wide - six inches wider than the inside measurement of the frame. Four inches of thwidth is taken up by the two 2" strips (b), which are nailed at the ends of the boards (a), to hold them together, and to whichside boards (c) are to be nailed, as hereinafter explained; and an additional two inches is allowed for the thickness of the sidboards, thus accounting for the six inches difference in width.

12. Now, take four of the short boards (Item a), lay them side by side, making a dimension of 30"x48"; nail one of the piecesItem b) on each end of the boards, close to the edge, flush and straight with the outside edge (doing the same with the

remaining four short boards and the other two narrow pieces) ; thus forming two panels, to serve as the ends of the frame thold the sides. These ends or panels are now 26" wide inside between the strips, and in all 30" outside measurement, asllustrated in the figure below.

Figure 3. An end panel

13. Now, take the eight long boards (Item c), one at a time, and nail the end of the board to the panels or ends shown above,nside of the strips, and to the strips (b) ; that is, drive the nails from the inside diagonally into the board, strip and end-pane

14. Then take the two narrow boards 1" x 6" x 48" (Item d) and nail one on each of the sides (c) of the Mikvah frame, in themiddle, on the outside, in an upright position (as shown in the drawing below), for the purpose of reinforcing, binding the fo

boards together, thus strengthening them to resist springing or bending from the pressure of the water when the Mikvah isilled. This makes the four walls of the frame.


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Figure 4. A complete Mikvah frame

15. Drive all nails a little on an angle so that they will hold better; and this also may save clinching. Nails are to be about thrnches apart. When nailing the 2" strips (b) to the ends, they should be nailed again from the back, i.e., from the other side, oight screws be used, to make those ends doubly strong.

16. Bore a 7/8" hole in any one of the bottom boards (a) or (c) of the frame, about one inch from the edge of the board to thecenter of the hole, to provide for an outlet (k), as hereinafter explained. Now set the frame permanently in its proper place.

17. The floor of the room or building forms the bottom of the Mikvah frame; that is, of course, when the Mikvah is installed o

he surface of the ftoor. Also, when convenient, it is still better to make use of a wall or a corner of a room or building to maup the frame. In this case nail solidly on the walls an upright strip to support the ends of the Mikvah wall, which ends are tonailed to it from the inside of the strip. This - making use of the floor or/and the wall of the building - is more in conformity whe laws governing Mikvah, as well as a saving of material.

18. If possible, toe-nail the frame slightly to the floor. In any event, toe-nail the bottom ends of the two narrow upright boardo the floor. To make sure, nail in addition, a couple of small blocks (l) about an inch thick on the floor at the bottom of thos

uprights, as illustrated in the figure, to prevent spreading of the side walls from the weight of the water, and to prevent breaof the lining of the Mikvah.

19. In case of a concrete or tile floor, into which nails cannot be driven, the construction is proper without nailing the framehe floor (as explained hereinafter in Paragraph 29, but a band or brace of sheet metal should be provided at the bottom to khe sides from spreading. (Note: It is adviable to always have such a bracing on either side whenever the span exceeds thirnches.) In order that the brace shall not interfere with the bottom lining, it is best to make the brace of a strip of galvanized

sheet metal, about 16 gauge, 6" x 36". Fix the brace across the bottom of the frame, allowing a margin of about five or sixnches to project on the outside at each end; these projections, having punctured or drilled holes, to be bent upwards

embracing the sides at the bottom, and nailed or screwed to the upright pieces (d). In order to have an even surface for theining at the bottom of the frame, some padding, as paper or cardboard, the thickness of the brace, should be put on the flo

on each side of the brace. This completes the frame work.

20. As already mentioned twelve Inches in height are allowed in each dimension for the rise of the water when a personmmerses, and to prevent splashing. These twelve inches are approximate. Therefore, should it be found more practicable,

order to suit the trade measurement of materials, to have the frame a little less In height, an inch or so, it does not matter, aong as there is plenty of allowance for the overflow and splash of the water. However, it must be borne in mind that the cub

measurement, the quantity of water, must under no conditions be less than the required twenty-four cubic feet.

The Lining

21. Now, we are ready for the lining; that is, to make the Mikvah hold water. Ordinary roofing paper (Item f) can be used forsaving in cost, or for temporary purposes, if carefully handled.

Note: The difference between a temporary Mikvah, which costs less than $5.00, and a permanent, durable one, is inthe lining only. When a sheet metal lining is used in the same frame, it will make a permanent job, taking no chancesof leakage. It Is likely to last indefinitely. The installation of this lining will, however, necessitate the employment of amechanic. The difference in the cost of the lining is from $10.00 to $20.00, depending mostly on the variation in costof mechanic's labor. When a sheet-metal lining is affixed, these eight paragraphs, Nos. 21 to 29, are not applicable.(Instead, see Plan No. 3.)

For successful results [with a roofing paper lining] see that the roofing paper is mildly warm before using. Line the floor firsas follows: cut a piece of the roofing paper (which usually is 36" wide) to the length of five feet (60") for the bottom, allowingsurplus of six inches on each side and on each end, which will serve as an underlap for the lining of the walls. Fold the bottpaper lining gently, to fit the angles at the corners. Putting this paper on the bottom is simple, except for the folding or cutti


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out of the corners, which must be done in such a way that it will not crack or break the paper, and also that it will make auniform surface in the corners. This must be carefully done to assure watertight corners, and in order that the lining which go on the walls afterwards will have an even surface.

22. Then a hole one and one-half inches in diameter is to be cut in the bottom lining, and is not to be mended until the Mikvaining is finished (in compliance with Sec. V, Chapter 17).

23. Having done this, cut a piece of the roofing paper to a length of twelve and a half feet. The paper being three feet wide, thmakes a lining three feet high for the four walls of the Mikvah, which measure twelve lineal feet within, and leaving six incheor an overlap. Roll up this piece of roofing paper, and stand it up against a wall inside of the receptacle. Tack on to the wall

end of the paper temporarily, by means of a strip of wood; unroll the roofing paper on the walls; push it into the corners by

using a square piece of wood; apply and fit the paper closely all around the four sides, and when this is done, you will find there will be an overlap of six inches for the joint. Manage so that the ends of the paper lining, the joint, come about the mid

of a wall of the Mikvah, not in a corner.

24. Before applying the roofing paper and adjusting the corners, warm up the cement, which usually comes in the roll of paor any other coal tar roofing cement. Applyit freely between all the overlaps, the corners, the joints, at the bottom, and theuprights. Press the ends so that they will stick and remain in place until the lining is ready for nailing. An extra application ohe tar cement is advisable for the corners in the bottom, where the cracking of the paper Is probable.

25. Then cut off another piece of the roofing paper, six and a half feet in length. Split it In two, lengthwise, making each piecnches in width. Use these pieces to finish the lining, lapping them over about five inches lengthwise on the paper previous

applied, and six inches on each joint. Cement the overlaps and joints properly, and drive in roofing nails, dipped in roofingcement, about every three inches. It is best to use planed laths or strips of wood, screwing them up tightly, on all the joints,hus assuring tight joints.

26. You will find about one inch surplus paper at the top. This margin is intended to be bent over the edge of the boards, i.ehe top of the walls of the frame, and tacked on to it by means of strips or planed laths, to protect the lining from breaking at

edge and to prevent the water from splashing between the paper and the boards.

27. Now, mend the hole in the lining of the bottom. Put a patch of the roofing paper over the hole, overlapping about threenches around the hole.

Note: The author directs in this instance to place the patch "over" the hole, instead of "under," as in Paragraph 54,for valid reasons of practicability, and in compliance with the intent of Section V of Chapter 17.

Bed the patch in roofing cement. Fasten the patch with roofing nails dipped in tar cement, to the floor, that is, to the floor ofroom or the building, which is used as the floor of the Mikvah. It must be nailed in such a way that lifting the receptacle will mpossible without breaking or re-opening a hole in the lining; thus making it comply with the articles of Section V, Chapte

The receptacle can hold water only when it remains attached to the building.

28. Should one ever want to move the receptacle, the patch should be cut out, i.e., making a hole in the bottom of the Mikvarendering it unable to hold water. Thus, such a perforated receptacle is not classed as a "vessel" or "utensil" or "ready-madcontainer," and it is proper to install it again as a Mikvah.

29. If the floor of the room where the Mikvah is installed is of concrete or tile, (See Paragraph 19), and nails cannot be drivennto it to attach the Mikvah to the floor, then holes must be drilled in the concrete or tile, lead anchors be inserted in those

holes, and screws be used in place of nails. Should it not be convenient or permissible to make many holes in the floor, at lone hole must be drilled In the concrete or tile floor, and "a hole-mending and attachment device" be applied, as hereinaftedescribed, the size of the hole being of a dimension to receive an expansion shield for a quarter-inch lag screw. Insert theexpansion shield in the hole, then fix the hole-mending and attachment device, as illustrated in the figure below, and applysame as directed. This accomplishes the purpose of closing and mending the hole in the bottom lining, and at the same tim

attaches the receptacle to the floor.


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Figure 5. A hole-mending and attachment device

30. The parts of the hole-mending and attachment device are as follows:

a. Lag screw 1/4" x 2".b. Small iron washer.c. Small leather or fiber washer 1/8" thick, fitted tightly on the lag screw.d. Metal plate 1/8" thick, 3 1/2" in diameter, with a 1/4" hole in the center.e. Two tar-felt or rubber gaskets, each about 1/8" thick, same diameter as the metal plate, with a tight-fitting hole inthe center.

31. Directions: Assemble this "hole-mending and attachment device" in the same order shown in the illustration, apply gasshellac or white lead freely on the gaskets (e), between the gaskets and the plate (d), between the plate and the small fiber oeather washer (c), between the small leather washer and the iron washer (b), and on the shank and point of the screw; also ohe lining around the hole in the bottom of the Mikvah. Then insert the screw in the hole of the expansion shield above refero (Paragraph 29). Screw it in. Draw it up tightly to make the joint watertight. This will complete the attachment of the Mikvahhe ground, that is to the floor, and enable the Mikvah to hold water. The same hole-mending and attachment device may be

used, if desired, also with a wooden floor. In that event no expansion shield is required. All that is needed is a small hole in loor, a little less in size than the thickness of the lag screw (about 3/16"), to assure a tight holding.

Note: Doing this will comply with Section V, chapter 17. The receptacle can hold water only when it remainsattached to the building, and by this attachment is made a part of the building. The substance stopping the water, i.e., the felt or rubber gaskets, is not classed as a utensil or commodity.

When it is desired to move the receptacle, the whole device should be taken out, and the Mikvah re-installed as directed.

The Outlet

32. Now, provide an outlet for the water. Find the hole prepared in the bottom board for the outlet (k in Figure 4), and make ahole through the lining from the inside, ready for the half-inch tank nipple (Item h of the above list of materials). Screw thatnipple tightly into the sleeve or coupling (Item j); then screw the hydrant faucet (Item g) tightly into the other end of the samsleeve or coupling; then screw on loosely one of the lock-nuts (Item i) on that threaded nipple close to the sleeve or couplinslip on a fiber washer, and then insert the end of the nipple in the prepared hole (k) from the outside. Now put the other fibewasher on the nipple from the inside of the Mikvah, and then screw the second lock-nut flush with the end of the nipple. Thescrew and draw up tightly the lock-nut on the outside of the Mikvah. Shellac or white lead should be used freely on the joinand between the washers.

Note: Should it be difficult to get the right kind of fiber washers, to stand the pressure of the screw, then a stringsaturated with shellac or white lead, wound around and with the thread, may be used instead. This suggestion mayalso be applicable in Paragraphs 30-31, instead of washer (c).

When roofing paper is used, particular care should be taken in this operation not to tear it. This finishes the outlet and makehe Mikvah complete.

A Step or Ladder for a Mikvah

33. When the Mikvah is installed on the surface of the floor, a box or chair may be used on the outside as a step. For the insor temporary purposes, a box of such a nature that it will not hold water, and with a weight to keep it from floating, may be nto the Mikvah, as a step, for convenience.

Note: However, it will be found after a little experimenting and practice that almost any average person can, withoutmuch effort, go in and come out of a four-foot deep Mikvah without a step. It is simple to emerge just by a little swingand support of the arms on the top, one hand gripping a side and the other an end of the frame; thus not actually

necessitating a step or ladder for the inside of the Mikvah.

A wooden step-ladder is not very practicable. It will float and there will be difficulty in making it fast to the bottom withoutdamaging the lining.


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Figure 6. A metal ladder

34. For permanent use it is best to make a non-floating ladder of galvanized iron pipes, as illustrated in Figure 6. It can beassembled by any handy man. It is made of half-inch galvanized pipe nipples and fittings. It consists of eight ready-made stnipples 12" long for the uprights, which are screwed Into T's. On the bottom ends, L's are screwed on to avoid damaging thining. On the upper ends are 45-degree couplings, 2" nipples and L's; thus forming a hook, holding on to the frame. Three

nipples 12" long screwed horizontally into the T's will form three rungs. Right and left thread nipples may be used for therungs, or if these are not available) union connections may be made use of. When screwed tightly, a durable, substantial, noloating ladder is formed. The specification of this ladder is for a Mikvah four feet deep. The ladder is longer, so it will rest a

ittle at an angle. The length of the upright nipples may be changed to suit different depths.

35. In a permanent Mikvah structure, one end may be built in steps. This will, however, necessitate calculation of the cubicspace in the Mikvah, according to each step.

Ascertaining the Measurements

36. When construction of the Mikvah is completed, measure again the length and width inside the space of the Mikvah, to mcertain that it has not lost any fraction of space from the dimensions Intended to make the required quantity of water for theMikvah, by reason of slightly inaccurate measuring, or mechanical imperfections.

37. If the measurements are found to be correct, then measure inside and designate the height, whatever was calculated fordepth of the water, in proportion to the width and the length, to make up the 24 cubic feet. Add a fraction, and make apermanent mark at that point as a water-line, the point to which the water must reach in order to make the required amount

38. Should it be found that the inside of the Mikvah does not tally within a fraction with the measurements planned, then thaequivalent proportion lost in length, width, corners, or angle space, etc., and a fraction over, should be added to the height ohe water-line, and a permanent mark be made at that higher point.

39. When anything Is put into the Mikvah, such as a step or ladder, care should be taken to mark the water-line higher,according to the rise of the water when the object is sunk, and to make sure that the net volume of water required for theMikvah is there.

Filling the Mikvah

40. For filling the Mikvah with water, use a rubber hose. Connect one end of the hose to the nearest hydrant bib faucet of hocold water in the room or building, the other end of the hose being placed in the Mikvah. Any nozzle at the end of the hose mbe removed. Care should be taken that the end of the hose does not twist and jump out of the Mikvah when the water is turn

on, thus causing splashing in the room.

41. The hose must lie absolutely by itself when the water is let into the Mikvah. Under no condition should a person hold orsupport the hose. Should it happen that any water to the amount of three lugim, that is, one quart (U. S. standard measurem

comes into the Mikvah by the assistance, or through the efforts, of a person holding the hose, before the Mikvah contains ull required quantity of forty se'ahs (24 cu. ft), that water disqualifies all the water in the Mikvah, and the Mikvah must be

drained, emptied of all the water, and refilled, as directed in Chapter 17, "Fundamental Rules of Mikvah," Section II, Paragra4. Therefore, as a matter of precaution, it is best to affix another female coupling on the other end of the hose, and to conneo the outlet faucet of the Mikvah, thereby avoiding the probability of human interference, and also splashing. Care must beaken that the Mikvah be always filled or refilled to the water-line mark, as referred to above. The cost of forty se'ahs (24 cu.

of water required for Mikvah is from five to ten cents, depending on the volume of water consumed in the house from the wsupply.


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Draining the Mikvah

42. When it is desired to let the water out, drain it through the outlet hydrant (k, Figure 4), provide it with a hose leading to aconvenient lower level, or to a toilet, basin) sink, or tub, located on a lower level. To aid in draining, it is best to install theMikvah on a floor above the ground floor.

43. Should it be necessary to install the Mikvah on the ground floor, or in a basement, or where the tenant has no privilege odraining the water to a lower level, then the water may be let out through the "clean-out" plug usually provided on the loweevel of the drain or sewer pipe. And if it Is permitted, a hole may be drilled in any of the drain pipes close to the floor - or behe level of the Mikvah - to receive the hose, that is, the outlet of the Mikvah. A plug can be fitted so that the hole will notnterfere with the regular draining system. When there is no drain pipe accessible to the Mikvah, the water may be drained t

any plumbing fixture on that floor level. This will release the water in the Mikvah at least up to the height of that fixture. The of the water would have to be dipped out with a bucket.

44. By the method of syphoning, the water can be drained to a plumbing fixture, the bottom of which is close to the floor, asoilet or bathtub. All the water of the Mikvah would then be carried by suction to the lower level of the inside of the bathtub,oilet bowl, which are usually only from four to six Inches above the floor. Then the last four or six inches of water within th

Mikvah would have to be drained into a shallow vessel, and the rest of it dipped or scooped out by a bucket.

45. When the Mikvah is emptied by a bucket or other utensil, care should be taken that all the water is removed therefrom, lehe remaining water become disqualified by the dipping with the utensil, and that water in turn disqualify the water coming hereafter.

Plan Number 2 - Canvas lining

46. For occasional and temporary use a Mikvah can also be lined with waterproof canvas. For instance, a piece of canvas,made up in a size of ten feet by twelve feet, would fold and fit exactly into the described frame, measuring 48" x 24" x 48".Smaller pieces of canvas can be used by joining the pieces, that is, by arranging them inside the frame so that the ends lapover, and then using a wooden strip over the joints, drawing them up tightly with screws. This will in a measure make theMikvah hold water, though it is not exactly waterproof. Some water is likely to seep through the canvas, particularly when thweight of the water is exerted, expanding the weave. Such a Mikvah, with mere seepage, is proper (see Paragraph 1, SectioChapter 17, "Fundamental Rules of Mikvah") provided the water does not run below the required volume. This Mikvah mayconstructed where the seepage of the water will not do any damage, and may be made use of in case of necessity, as inraveling or camping.

47. It must be remembered, however, that a hole equivalent in size to one and one-half inches in diameter at the bottom of thining must be made before the lining is completed, and a patch be fixed over the hole in the same manner as explained in

Paragraph 27, this chapter; or when applicable, the mending and attachment device, as described above in Paragraph 30,Figure 5, may be made use of.

Moving and Re-installing the Mikvah

48. Should it be desired to move the Mikvah receptacle, this can be accomplished with hardly any more difficulty than moviother household furniture, and it is never more of a problem than moving a piano. Most doors are more than thirty inches wpermitting the above described Mikvah to pass through. Or, If it is expected to be moved, other narrower (but longer) designof Mikvahs may be adopted; thus assuring passage through almost any door.

49. When it is desired to move a Mikvah whose lining is made of roofing paper or canvas, as above referred to, and which isdirectly nailed to the floor, see Paragraph 28. When the lining is made of galvanized sheet metal, and the patch is attached the floor beneath the Mikvah, as hereinafter described in Paragraph 54, and it is desired to move the Mikvah, this may be don the manner described in Paragraph 55.

50. When the Mikvah is disguised in furniture, hereinafter referred to in Paragraph 60, the mending and attachment of same as a rule, necessitate the use of the "attachment device" (which device is applicable to any of these Mikvahs) as illustrated Figure 5, and described in Paragraphs 30 and 31, the re-installation may be accomplished as stated there.

51. When the receptacle is moved, a diagonal brace should be nailed on the top to prevent wiggling of the frame, therebyavoiding the possibility of breaking the lining; or permanent short diagonal braces may be fixed on one end of the frame.

Plan Number 3 - A permanent and durable Mikvah with galvanized sheet-metal lining

52. The next improvement in the installation of a Mikvah, over Plan Number 1 - the one costing less than $5.00 - may be in thuse of better lumber, finishing it with stain or paint to harmonize with the color and finish of the room. The main and mostpracticable improvement on the low-priced Mikvah is to insert a galvanized sheet-metal lining (gauge 22 or 24), which werecommend. This makes the construction permanent and durable, though the initial cost is a little more; and there will be n


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chance of leakage. (See the note in Paragraph 21.) The principal plans for construction, particularly those having the sides ohe Mikvah held by the end-panels, referred to in Paragraphs 12 and 13, and as illustrated in Figure 3, hold good in almost a

case, and can hardly be improved upon.

53. When sheet-metal lining is fixed, it is best not to complete the lining, including the bottom, before It is placed in positionWhen convenient, it is more in compliance with the regulations that the bottom be soldered in after the wall lining ispermanently fixed In the Mikvah. Should this prove difficult, the whole lining may be made ready outside of the Mikvah. In aevent, a hole equivalent to one and one-half inches in diameter must be made in the bottom of the lining before it is insertedhe frame. This hole is to be mended when the lining is set and attached to the frame, as in Paragraph 22.

54. To mend the hole, put a piece of galvanized sheet metal, a few inches larger than the hole, on the floor beneath the bott

ining. Fasten this piece permanently to the floor with nails or screws. Then insert the bottom lining, the hole being over thepiece of sheet metal; then solder the hole all around to that piece of sheet-metal already attached to the floor. It must bedonsuch a way that the Mikvah cannot be lifted from the floor without loosening the soldering, and reopening the hole. Thismending of the hole in this way will at the same time form the required attachment of the Mikvah receptacle to the ground, ts, to the floor. This must be done in compliance with the regulations of Mikvah (Section V, in Chapter 17, "Fundamental Ru

of Mikvah") referred to in Paragraph 27, this chapter. In case the floor is of concrete or tile, refer to Paragraphs 19 and 29, thchapter. The "hole-mending and attachment device," mentioned in Paragraphs 30 and 31, Figure 5, may be used.

55. Should It be desired to move the Mikvah, the soldering around the hole may be loosened (or the mending and attachmedevice taken out) and the Mikvah lifted up with the hole open; thus making it proper to install it again. Another piece of shemetal is to be affixed to the new floor, and the hole mended in the same manner as before.

56. A galvanized sheet-metal Mikvah can also be made without a wooden frame by merely using a little heavier grade (gaugsheet metal (18 or 20 instead of 22 or 24), and reinforcing the bottom, top, and' center with rounded or angle strips; thusmaking the Mikvah more practicable, lighter in weight, and easier to move than with a wooden frame. Ornamental (stock)rimming may be affixed to the Mikvah, as a disguise, to make it appear as a piece of furniture, as mentioned in Plan Numbe

below.

57. When the galvanized sheet-metal lining is fitted for a Mikvah which is constructed with an outlet directly connected to thdrain pipes, as mentioned hereinafter in Plan Number 7, then the hole made in the bottom of the lining to fit that connectionsufficient. When connected, it accomplishes the purpose of the abovereferred-to articles. (See Paragraph 4, Section V, Chap17, "Fundamental Rules of Mikvah.")

58. These plans, specifications, materials and dimensions are mostly suggestions. Should one prefer to construct a Mikvahanother manner, or to employ a designer or mechanic, he may use his own judgment, provided the strength, the necessaryresistance to the weight and pressure of the water in the Mikvah, is considered, and provided also, of course, that theproportionate size for the minimum volume of water, twenty-four cubic feet, with about twelve inches allowance on top of th

waterline for the rise, overflow and splash, are provided for; and that the fundamental regulations, referred to in Paragraph 6his chapter, are complied with.

59. Galvanized sheet-metal lining for Mikvahs has proved most satisfactory, practicable and durable. From our own experiewe recommend the galvanized lining for a Mikvah whenever It is applicable, even in cases where it is intended that the insidhe Mikvah be decorated in a more artistic manner. This may be done on the surface of the galvanized lining.

Plan Number 4 - A Mikvah disguised as furniture

60. The following illustrations, Figures 7, 8 and 9, show how a Mikvah can be constructed in the disguise of furniture, andmoved like other furniture, for the convenience of a tenant family. In this case the Mikvah is equipped with a galvanized shemetal lining, or is made entirely out of sheet-metal (Paragraph 56) having a hole one and one-half inches in diameter in thebottom, and "a hole-mending and attachment device," as illustrated in Figure 5, and described in Paragraphs 30 and 31. In

order that the Mikvah may easily pass through a doorway, a suitable dimension may be selected.


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Figure 7. The drawing above represents a simply constructed Mikvah,as in Plan 3, having a fitted top. Covers and drapes may be used on the

outside, giving it an ornamental finish. It may be made to appear as adressing table, or a folding bed. It may be disguised as a wardrobe,

a cedar chest, or a cabinet, etc.

Figure 8. A Mikvah disguised as a buffet, madein such a way that it appears to rest on legs.

Figure 9. This Mikvah has been made to appearas a bookcase.


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Plan Number 5 - A collapsible, flexible, folding Mikveh

61. The author has experimented with and invented several kinds of collapsible or folding Mikvahs for the convenience of Jwho live in crowded quarters, as is usual in big cities, or for those who are tenants and are likely to change their residencesoften. The latest and most improved folding Mikvah consists of a flexible material. It rises and stands securely by itself, withrame, so constructed that it cannot be tipped over. It unfolds and rises by itself when the water is let in; it collapses and

partially folds automatically when drained. It may be folded into a small bundle to a size of about fifteen by fifteen by twelvenches.

62. This Mikvah is attached to the floor by "a hole-mending and attachment device," shown in Figure 5, Paragraph 30, thischapter. Its use is on the same principle as disappearing or built-in furniture, such as a folding bed, davenport, wall-bed, orcombination kitchen table, cabinet, and breakfast nook. It can remain attached to the floor under a couch or bed, unseen. Wdesired) it can be utilized as, (1) a Mikvah, (2) a plunge, or (3) a shower bath, by merely moving aside the couch or bed, andurning on the water. A hydrant bib faucet is affixed at the bottom, and a rubber hose is connected to it from any water fauche house, when the Mikvah is to be filled. The water is shut off when it reaches the water-line which indicates the required

quantity of forty se'ahs (twenty-four cubic feet). This same faucet of the Mikvah is also used as an outlet, draining the waterhe desired place by means of a hose.

63. The author considers it impracticable to give the full description of the construction of this Mikvah in this book, as it wobe rather difficult and expensive for an individual to make a single one. The author would have made up a supply ready for demand, had that not necessitated a quantity production on a business basis, leading eventually to the establishment of abusiness and a commercializing of the Mikvah, which would conflict with his principles (of not commercializing anything

pertaining to the cause of Judaism). However, the author prays that some observant Jews who are interested in the promotof the cause of Judaism may combine the virtue of developing such a Mikvah with a commercial enterprise. It is reasonableexpect that, considering its three-fold usefulness, its saving in space, and its adaptability, a commodity of this kind would barge demand. The author would be delighted to assist such an undertaking, help to carry it out, and have the interests of thnvestors protected by patents.

Plan Number 6 - Utilizing closet space for Mikvah

64. The following illustrations show how any available space in the house, even space that Is otherwise not very useful, canutilized for a Mikvah in addition to its regular use, as, for instance, the lower part of a closet, a corner under a stairway, etc., matter whether the space is perpendicularly straight, square, angular, rectangular or triangular in shape; thereby losing harany space.

Figure 10. This represents a Mikvah constructed in a closet.The closet space does not necessarily lose its usefulness, but

such a Mikvah is very useful and inconspicuous.


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Figure 11. This represents a Mikvah constructed undera stairway in a space of little use.

Figure 12. This represents a Mikvah constructed in awall-bed closet, which space is of little or no value forother use. Neverhteless, it is very convenient for this

purpose, the Mikvah being easily accessible, yet concealed.

65. All the above plans and suggestions are for Mikvahs constructed in houses already built, not necessitating alteration orremodeling of the building in any way, and providing that the Mikvah can be moved when needed. But if one does not expeche Mikvah to be moved, he may avail himself of the following suggestions.

Plan Number 7 - Permanent, ornamented Mikvahs

66. The illustration below is a suggestion for the construction of a permanent Mikvah. This, also, can be done in a housealready built. The frame of the Mikvah may be of wood, plastered on the outside with cement, on which a tile or stone desigmay be made, or real tile may be affixed. The inside, the lining, may be of galvanized sheet-metal. It can be finished with enapaint above the water-line. (Paint is not practicable under water unless it is in the nature of baked enamel.)


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Figure 13. A tile Mikvah

67. The Mikvah may be plastered inside also with cement and lined with marble, glazed porcelain tile, opaque glass, plate omirror glass; bedded in the cement. Such construction may be carried out very artistically by using difiFerent colored inlaidn the form of panels and borders, with an offset as a waterline, to indicate the required quantity of forty se'ahs (twenty-four

cubic feet; see Paragraphs 37, 38 and 39, this chapter). If one is willing to alter the floor of the room so that a part of the Miks below the level of the floor, as In Plan No. 8, it may appear more in harmony with the lines of the room.

68. When constructing a Mikvah of concrete or brick, it is best to line it with such materials as those above (Paragraphs 66 a67), otherwise it will be found difficult to make the Mikvah water or damp proof. However, a slight seepage of water will not

nterfere with the laws governing Mikvah, provided the water does not run down below the minimum required volume.

69. A Mikvah plastered with cement or made of concrete or brick may also be constructed on the floor. In this case it may beadvisable to consult an authority on building to ascertain whether the weight is excessive and whether a support is neededbeneath the floor. The different Mikvahs mentioned before Plan No. 7 do not ordinarily require a support for the floor, as themargin of safety, the stress, of the ordinary building is usually more than the required support for such a Mikvah, the weighwhich, including the water, will approximate only about eighteen hundred pounds. It is understood that any Mikvah soconstructed that it is permanently built in or/and of a stationary nature (other than those built semi-temporarily and likely tomoved, as referred to in Paragraph 17, this chapter), may be provided with an independent floor, if so desired. The inlet andoutlet for the water of these permanent Mikvahs may be permanently connected to the water and sewer pipes.

Plan Number 8 - Suggestions for more permanent Mikvahs

70. The following illustrations suggest permanent Mikvahs installed in a house already built, but the floor may be altered tohe convenience of the Mikvah. In such instances, the Mikvah may be constructed in the most accessible and convenient ro

as In the living room (Figure 14), the dressing room (Figure 15), or the bedroom (Figure 16). This construction may be madesuch a way that the Mikvah is the height of a seat, about sixteen inches above the floor, so that it can be made to appear aswindow-seat, couch or lounge; or it may be built the height of a dressing table, with, of course, a top fitted to the Mikvah.

71. The Mikvah may also be constructed below the surface of the floor, so that the top of the Mikvah is even with the floor. Tcover, fitted to the top of the Mikvah, serves as the floor of the room; thus basement or cellar space may be utilized Instead he floor space in the room) and the Mikvah is not visible.


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Figure 14. A Mikvah harmoniously arranged in a living room.

Figure 15. A Mikvah artistically installed in a lady's private dressing room, or boudoir, etc.

Figure 16. A Mikvah installed in the bedroom for comfort and convenience.

Figure 17. A Mikvah harmoniously arranged in a living room.


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Except for the paragraph shown below, below we will skip the remainder of this chapter, in which Rabbi Miller goeson to discuss some of his ideas for public mikvaot. We end with the final paragraph of Chapter 19. It is interesting asan indication of the importance that Rabbi Miller placed on mikveh:

74. For the purpose of installing a Mikvah in a community, or a private home, it is permissible, and even commendable, that Holy Scroll be sold to raise funds therefor, if no other funds can be obtained. It is a reflection upon, an insult and blasphemhe Torah, for the Torah to be found in a community where there is no Mikvah.

Although the rabbi's tastes in interior decorating probably were retro even for his day (75 years ago!) the basic ideas

laid out above are sound. The two chapters we have included here make a convincing case for using ordinarytapwater in a mikveh, and show us how we can build a no-frills immersion pool that avoids the halachic prohibitionagainst vessels.

From here you can move up one level.

Documents

Secret of the Jew_ Chapter 17