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A film screening at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. | Photo

courtesy Cinespia

By    5/14 6:01am

       

SUMMER GETAWAYS

See the Stars in Hollywood

This town has always embodiedglamor and fame. Unfortunately,in 2015, glamor and fame usuallymean plastic surgery and half aseason of reality TV. That’s not tosay the Hollywood of MarleneDietrich and Cary Grant, of Gildaand Casablanca, is forever gone.Indeed, it still lingers … if youknow where to look.

Sure, the fabled Walk of Fame is acliché of vaguely familiar names,but there’s always a momentwhen one looms up out of the

array—someone who actually meant something to you, like Lon Chaney or Lena Horne. OrLeslie Nielsen. Savor a moment of pensive silence in their honor—and move on before one ofthe fake Spider-Men starts hassling you.

A mandatory stop is Musso & Frank Grill, the oldest restaurant in Hollywood. Through theyears, it has been the hangout of Greta Garbo, Orson Welles and Raymond Chandler—and,more recently, George Clooney, David Lynch and Charles Bukowski. The dining rooms seembathed in a perpetual “magic hour” golden glow, and Peggy Lee purrs through vintage wood-veneer speakers. The waiters and bartenders are old-school pros in jacket and tie who canshake a martini and spin a story. They’re so cool, in fact, that Keith Richards (another regular)has been known to fly them to Stones shows.

It seems every wall in every Hollywood neighborhood is covered in amateurish murals ofMarilyn and Chaplin, but there are also more refined tributes. At Sunset and Vine, aspectacular mosaic by Millard Sheets honors such revered stars as Bette Davis and DouglasFairbanks. Nearby, the “Four Ladies of Hollywood” sculpture pays homage to Dolores Del Rio,Anna May Wong, Dorothy Dandridge and Mae West; it was created by Catherine Hardwickyears before she directed Twilight.

And, of course, the Hirschfeld-style murals of golden-age celebrities that adorn the walls of theFrolic Room are worth visiting even if you don’t want to have a drink—although, given that thisis one of Hollywood’s last remaining classic watering holes, you probably do.

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The poolside Tropicana Bar at the Hollywood

Roosevelt Hotel

Celebrity murals adorn the walls of the Frolic Room. | Phot by Lissa Townsend Rodgers

How to get there

Your choice: quick and convenient (LAX by air; Interstate 15 by land), or slow and scenic, be itvia flight to Long Beach Airport (a remarkably maintained and updated art deco structure, buta bit of a trek to Hollywood) or the backroads of the Mojave (think Route 66).

Where to stay

Once frequented by Rudolph Valentino, today the Hollywood Hotel draws a string of up-and-coming (and a few already-there) comics to its comedy club and bar. The well-appointed roomsinclude a mini-klieg lamp and freestanding vintage clothing rack for that dressing-room vibe. …The Hollywood Historic Hotel, near Paramount Studios, offers an on-site café/hair salon. The

rooms are decorated with vintage black-and-white photos, and many offer views ofthe famed Hollywood sign.

Where to dine

The Pikey was once the legendary Ye Coach& Horses, a bar where champion drinkerssuch as Robert Mitchum and RichardBurton tied one on. Today it’s a British-themed gastropub, where you’re morelikely to see Dave Grohl and Bryan Singerchowing on English comfort food and abottle of Cristal. … Slightly outside ofHollywood is the Dresden: Sit on a white leather banquette, dining of filet mignon like Don andMegan in Mad Men. Or hit the lounge and groove to the swingin’ sounds of Marty and Elayneas they work their inimitable way through the Great American Songbook.

What to do

The Los Angeles Conservancy also tends to cinematic history in their Broadway HistoricTheatre and Commercial District Walking Tour, which guides you around (and occasionallythrough) almost a dozen decrepit-yet-dazzling movie palaces. … Stroll through the HollywoodRoosevelt Hotel, where the first Academy Awards was held, Clark Gable and Carole Lombardshacked up and Marilyn Monroe is rumored to haunt. Sip one of their artfully made cocktails inthe palatial lobby or the elegant Public Kitchen & Bar, or head out to the Palm Beach-style,poolside Tropicana Bar.

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Don’t missScores of famous names—from John Huston to Jayne Mansfield to Bugsy Siegel—have madethe Hollywood Forever Cemetery their final home. During the day, the 60-acre grounds invitevisitation and contemplation on the lush lawns; on weekends from May to October, Cinespiahosts film screenings and concerts. Upcoming: flicks Vertigo, Do the Right Thing andShowgirls, and concerts by Laura Jane Grace and Modest Mouse.

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