September edition 2013 The Huaraz Telegraph

The Huaraz TelegraphMade in Huaraz September 2013 FREE/GRATIS!

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Read what our (female) reporter in Huanchaco thinks about bricheros. Image: perucool.com

Eight lethal mountain accidents in 2013 Ï think we were very fortunate!¨

page 6

Continuation of our expat interviews

Expat in Huaraz

page 8Huaraz´s most famous singer is pre-nominated

The little one in the middle was one of the few lucky kids to receive treatment at the hospital

Huaraz at Grammy´s

page 3

Special offer for our readers:Buy 2 drinks & pay only 1!

See page 7 for our special offer

page 19

Niels Carlson (r) and Jonathan Clark (l) said they were happy to be able to tell their story Niels being saved by the High Mountain Rescue Team at La Morrena del Ocshapalca

German Red Cross operates onPeruvian children with cleft lip and

palate free of charge

page 12

What about Bricheros in Huanchaco?

2 The Huaraz TelegraphSEPTEMBER 2013

VISIT: WWW.THEHUARAZTELEGRAPH.COM

The EditorialTime flies, even when you are not having fun

Finally, the last edition of this year´s English language newspaper, the Huaraz Telegraph, has been produced and I have to admit I am happy that we were able to create six diverse editions this year. Like last year, the Huaraz Telegraph has been applauded and criticized at the same time, but personally I believe we have delivered a much higher standard, a much more entertaining and much more interactive newspaper in 2013 although it wasn’t all joy and happiness. I guess no one likes anonymous phone calls, eggs thrown at you and finding

the paper ripped to pieces at your doorstep.

It is true to say and I constantly remind myself that without the contribution of sponsors, you wouldn’t be able to read the paper and we wouldn’t be able to offer it for free. With tourism falling year after year, it will be even harder in the future to continue with this great project.

Great because on a personal level, it allowed me meet great inspiring people, such asAugusto Ortega, Tito La Rosa at the Inkafest Mountain Film Festival, or Venu Dhupa who is

the editor of the International Journal for Creativity and Human Development. Venu understood that I do not publish this newspaper for fame or fortune. She wrote the following after my meeting with her: ¨he (Rex) openly admits that tourism in the region is falling - only two in every 100 tourists who visit Peru come to Huaraz but you can see how others don’t want to hear this message. Rex is resilient and creative and though he bills himself as an amateur, he is fully aware of the importance of the paper and the platform it provides, for the good (or not) of Huaraz. He says he has no friends and says it in several different ways....the most amusing being.....Í was having a drink at the bar with all my friends....alone´. He allows us to see a different side of Peru, one that is semi-hostile to foreigners, especially those who dare to comment on the city, its development and services.¨ I just wanted to share

this little pat on the back.

Just before writing this foreword I was contacted by someone who I thought was a friend. He has been promising to write an article about Cesar Vallejo (a Peruvian poet, writer, play-

wright, and journalist) who he admires greatly. Knowing this person´s lifestyle (gringahunting, alcohol consumption and visiting bars frequently) I wasn’t very hopeful but gave him the benefit of the doubt. Then I found out the real reason why he couldn’t fulfil his promise; he does not want to be associated with the editor. Apparently this person has three friends who hate me so much, he prefers not to contribute to the Huaraz Telegraph. Of course, he is right, I have basically nothing else to offer apart from friendship, a little bit of

fame and credits for writing an article, so why would he? Shame on him.

Moral of the story (if there is one?): I didn’t come to Peru to become a millionaire or to be-come the most beloved gringo in Huaraz. As a matter of fact; the very opposite is true! I am here to do what I am good at and what I like, and what others think about me? I couldn’t care less. Truth is that these six months has passed by like no time. In the end, I enjoyed produc-ing the Huaraz Telegraph so much that I might continue next year being your editor… There is still enough to reveal, discuss, share and talk about. Huaraz, be prepared! I almost forgot: thank you all for supporting, contributing, and reading the Huaraz Telegraph. Be in touch!

Rex Broekman

Founder and editor of the Huaraz Telegraph

The Huaraz Telegraph freely available!Apart from i-Perú, cafés and many restaurants, the Huaraz Telegraph is also available for free at the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. The Huaraz Telegraph does not

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3The Huaraz TelegraphSEPTEMBER 2013


Music & Entertainment

Richard Colonia and his band Turmanyé (rainbow in Quechua language) are one of the pre-nominated contestants in the Annual Latin Grammy Award, to be hosted in Las Vegas on the 21st of November. We are proud that the band is Peruvian, and especially proud that they are Huaracinos, as Richard is from Huaraz. His pre-nomination was only picked up by Prensahuaraz, which shows how much importance music (or Turmanyé) has in the region.

After hearing about the pre-nomination in the categories Best Album of the Year, Best New Artist and Best Album Pop/ Rock, Richard posted the following on his Facebook page: ¨Listening to the pre-nominations of the Latin Grammy 2013, I realised that Latin-America produces and composes decent music. As for Peruvian musicians, we try to compete as equals despite our limitations. Richard states there is no proper music industry in Peru because new music does not get promoted and even worse, it is damaged by piracy. And he is right; the life of a Peruvian actor or musician is difficult. Piracy is rife, even in the most remote areas of the country you can buy the latest Hollywood movie or music DVD for as little as three Soles.

Richard Colonia is a musician, music producer, composer and a songwriter and as previously mentioned, was born in Huaraz. He makes music not because he is forced to, he makes it because it´s his passion and he likes to share his thoughts in the songs he composes. Most of his songs are about the life around us, and among the themes that inform his lyrics are love, heartbreak, social issues and the clash of identities. His many talents include playing the guitar, piano, harmonica, bass and many more instruments. Enough reason for the Huaraz Telegraph to interview the leader of the band Turmanýe, and ask him about his personality, his life in general and his future.

How did it all start Richard?

I was studying at university for a career in Civil Engineering and that´s where I met some friends, although before that I was

already practicing, but on my own with my guitar and harmonica, a bit like Bob Dylan. Apart from some songs about mi tierra (my homeland), I also did covers from Sting, Nash, Neill Young and Bob Dylan, who were my favourites during the 70s and 80s. It was back then when we formed a small group with some university friends and we mainly played at fiestas and social dances. That was my introduction to live music and we put together our first band, which was called Fx. Later on, the band would be renamed Turmanyé (also the name of an Inca warrior), as I wanted a name that was native to Huaraz, meaning not in the Spanish or English language but in Quechua. This would give our band more identity. The band (Fx) I formed with my university friends was mostly for fun, and my professional singing career started when I formed a new band but this time with my three brothers. The four of us produced our first album which was called Entre luz y sombra (Between light and shadow).

Can you describe the type of music you were composing and singing?

We haven’t changed much since the beginning despite the fact that we try to avoid doing covers. I prefer creating my own music. The biggest change maybe would be the modernization of the music adapted to the new technology that became available through the years.

In the beginning we played mostly rock and pop and thirty years later we still do, although we have included some reggae and fusion sounds. Our most popular song, Rio Santa (Holy River, referring to the River that flows through Huaraz), was a fusion song and it became a big hit in Lima. What we wanted to do with that song was to compose something distinctly local, with Huayno influences, but with global appeal. Basically with the success of one song, we produced our second album which we called Fusiones. And as the name explains, we tried to mix songs that had inspired us during our youth with some new sounds that were familiar to the modern generation. I would call it a mixture of modern music and traditional sounds.

Tell us a bit more about the reception of your first album in Lima

Honestly, as I said, our first album was received very well and we won a prize, the Caracol de Plata at the international festival Ancon ´92 in Lima. The festival doesn’t exist anymore. There were more than 60 bands present at the festival and we won the first prize with the song Rio Santa. All the other bands were playing rock and heavy metal but we won because we had a special and unique style of music which people had never heard before. They reacted like: ´wow, this is new for Peru´. On the other hand, we got criticized as well, people said that our music was provincial, Andino and Serrano (Mountain or highland music), but I believe and some critics agree with me, we were far ahead of the rest. Because what we played in 1992 is what you hear nowadays on the local radio stations. Because of winning the prize we got a break in Lima and the only important radio station of that time, Radio Doble Nueve (99.1 FM) started to play our Rio Santa song which made us a little more famous. Not much later we got calls from other radio stations and also from the Lima newspapers and we became well known. This fame lasted for three or four years, no more. Things went quieter because my brother, who was playing the guitar, resigned from the band as he was pursuing a solo career. This was a setback as my brother not only played

the guitar, but sang alongside me. For this reason, it took a while before we (Turmanyé) had our second album ready. With our second album we tried to spread the Andean Soul, which was a fusion of different styles, sounds and finally a bit of reggae. Again it´s all about identities as I believe I cannot just translate any song from the Rolling Stones into Spanish, it needs to be local.

How about the always critical people of Huaraz?

Very good! Yes, but… what happened was that because our music was so innovative, people in Huaraz didn’t really understand the idea behind the music. Especially for Huaraz ,we composed a song called La Dama de las Camelias and this was more a pop song but it became very popular in Huaraz. The fusion style songs weren’t really popular, not just in Huaraz but in the Andean Highlands. In Lima people were, I guess more open to fusion style music because of the many migrants coming from other provinces. People in Huaraz still have the idea that rock is just The Rolling Stones and The Beatles. On the other hand we are called the “ Pioneers of Fusion Music in Peru”.

You recently launched your third album with I suppose, again new band members?

The original band we started as Turmamyé had four members, my brothers Vladimir, John, Carlain and myself. The second album we made without Vladimir as he went to Lima and his replacement was called Janio Cuadros and he played the guitar. Now with the third album released, I am the only original member, I would call it the new generation. My son is a band member but he is much more than that. As he studied at the conservatorium, he is also a composer and a music producer and therefore a professional. My son is much more a technician and an expert. He studied music, whereas I learned it more empirically and through self-study. The latest album is probably the best of the three as we have now more options and techniques available. It is not only fusion, but much more innovative and more modern than the previous two. The technical quality of the latest disc is a lot better than the previous two. On the third album there is a new version of our hit Rio Santa but this time with only acoustic instruments.

How was the reception of your third album called Inchinecho?

Look… (hesitating to answer), a bit difficult. As we hadn’t recorded for 12 years, the reception wasn’t like our second album. For many people we are a new band, except of course those who know our music from the beginning. Today’s youth thinks we´re a new band which makes it difficult to conquer the market again. Among the rockers in Peru there is a little battle going on to force the radio stations to play more traditional Peruvian music.

Huaraz´s most famous singer pre-nominated at Latin Grammy´s

The band members of Turmanyé who conducted the album InchinechoThe Huaraz Telegraph

Read further on page 4...



Music & Entertainment

Evidence of a letter of the XIII Latin Grammy Comity directed to Richard ColoniaThe Huaraz Telegraph

Most radio stations are commercial stations so they have to play popular music and not the alternative but I would like to see a bit more support for traditional music.

Can you make an easy living as an artist?

When I dropped out of university, I started up a business which is nowadays known as Pucaventana, this helps to subsidise my other career in the music business. My artistic career has always been a passion rather than an investment. It´s not as easy as it seems. For instance, we never have sufficient money to make a good video clip but with the backup of my other business, I have been able to keep my head above water. Not just my head but also my family’s head. Honestly, with the first and second album we made money. Time I haven’t invested in the band for 12 years, I have spent time working at my business so I can’t complain because I was making money.

Compared with 30 years ago, what are the major differences between now and then and do you regret anything in the past?

I am really pleased to have chosen a career in the music business because I wouldn’t have been happy as a civil engineer. I would have felt frustrated and not have been Richard Colonia. I feel good! The road to success hasn’t been that easy though, I don’t think that everybody in Huaraz likes me or supports me. But I have always fought for a distinctive musical identity and I have no respect for people who just imitate. For example the programme Yo Soy, which is only about imitating other musicians, I don’t like that show. The worst thing is that there is not just one person trying to imitate Kurt Cobain but seven or eight a month. I believe that we should support Peruvian talent but look for own identity and not copy something that has already been done. Don’t forget, Peru is a country which is developing and searching for an idol; we don’t have a Peruvian idol, someone famous that people can look up to.

Could you describe the Peruvian identity, if it exists?

It does exist, at least for some it does, for other it doesn’t. Again many are searching for this identity. Peru is a country with many colours, flavours, varieties and races. As our food is becoming more famous around the world, so should our music and clothing. To become a country with an identity, we should market ourselves with pride.

Do you believe you are a powerful person in Huaraz? Could you change things if you wanted to?

I believe I have some power and I think my opinion is respected. But, honestly I don’t really know. I feel that I am appreciated by the locals here and that they respect me. Some people have asked me to apply for the mayoralty. I have to admit that this is not something I have planned for in the short term.

Although, I would like to make a contribution to the community of Huaraz, at some time in the future.

Nevertheless, in February this year you wrote an open letter to the Mayor of Huaraz, criticizing the misuse of the new Cultural Centre, right?

I belonged to a group of artists from Huaraz, among us were dancers, musicians, dramatists, entertainers, authors, photographers and more. We were asked to form a committee to promote culture. At the same time we were asked to give our opinions but we were completely ignored. We were not taken seriously and instead they started to do things in the Cultural Centre that didn’t contribute to the culture of Huaraz. For example, movies shown in the theatre were violent action movies. Is that pro or anti culture? Also, all films shown were pirate copies. Furthermore there were shows that had nothing to do with culture. It is, after all a cultural centre, a place where people can learn things and some value is given to the whole population. That was not the case so I wrote that letter. There was at that time no filter and every type of film was automatically approved and there were no dance or drama productions. Recently they have appointed a new director (Rocío Díaz Estrada) and we are waiting for her call. I have already spoken to her and she supports my ideas but it all depends on the mayor, he makes the decisions. The Cultural Centre in Huaraz is built with community money and therefore it should cater for the community.

Let me get this straight, would you prefer to be involved in politics or become mayor one day?

I might want to but not yet, I have some other unfinished plans. I would like to dedicate some time to developing a new album with Turmanyé. Politics is not well established in Huaraz. It has a bad reputation nowadays and as a citizen people would see me in a different light. Furthermore I believe there is a duty to do the right thing. I would not want to become mayor and later have people throwing bottles at me. I would have to do

it right, and when the time is right, I might put my name forward.

How do you consider the quality of life in Huaraz?

Huaraz is the source of my inspiration, as I was born here. One of the first songs I composed was called Un canto al Parque Huascarán. I wrote that song to focus attention on our natural resources and that they should be protected. The song was more like an anthem so children, youngsters and adults would be able to identify themselves with the song. I used to be a hiker and a climber, I have climbed with Americo (who lost his life at the Aconcagua Mountain) and Augusto Ortega (first ever Peruvian to conquer the Mount Everest) but I veered more towards music, especially when Americo died, I quit mountaineering. Anyway, the mountains and the city are still a source of influence for most of my songs. There is, most of the time, some deep thought behind the lyrics although I have some love songs as well. On my latest album there is a song called Warmillay – Cuando las flores se abren, and this song is dedicated to women, to Pachamama (mother earth), Killa (the moon) and the female gender itself. The song Negron is opposing racial discrimination.This is because Peru is a country with many races. This also explains the title of our third album which is Inchinecho (In Spanish an abbreviation of Inca, Chino, Negro and Chólo) underneath the protection of the rainbow (In Quechua

language Turmanyé) and life. The third song on our latest album is called Inchinecho (like the album title) and it is a protest against Peruvian corruption. Most songs are in some way a sort of protest but also celebrating our flora and fauna. The songs are soft but the idea is that people listen to them and think about the themes. Our country has evolved; we can no longer kill bulls at bullfights, or dogs or cockerels. We are in a new century and it´s time to move forward.

Speaking of evolution, what about the evolution of Huaraz?

Disorganised! It seems like there is almost no identity. We have to recognize and realize that we are living in a place with mountains which has the potential for adventure and we should identify ourselves with that. The authorities should educate the younger ones to take care of the environment, water, energy. The city should be clean but we are a long way away from that. There are few controls and people do what they want. This has resulted in a disorganised mess. People drive through red lights, throw paper and plastic on the streets, get drunk on the streets… This way we will never become a first world country. It all starts with people setting good examples. The President of Peru should set a good example so the people can follow it. In Huaraz the authorities should set a good example so people can follow it. Peru (and Huaraz maybe even more so) is full of prejudice and the people won´t accept that we are ONE nation, multicultural but unique. Instead of believing that everything from abroad is better, people should first appreciate what they have around them. The same happens with my music, people think because it´s Peruvian, it can’t be good. Something from abroad has to be more interesting, not necessarily because it´s better, but just because it comes from across the border. Huaraz, for example, does not appreciate its rich resources but is always looking to import goods from abroad or Lima.

Richard Colonia can be found on Twitter and on Facebook and for people interested in a fusion of reggae and Peruvian music, some of his songs are available on his website www.turmanye.com and can be listened for free. We thank Richard for his time and the coffee he bought us and wish him all the best in the future.

Continuation of page 3

Richard Colonia (r) being honoured by the city and the Mayor of Huaraz, Vladimir Meza (l)

The Huaraz Telegraph



Advertorial/Publirreportaje

- The Human Touch -

The season’s final edition of the Telegraph is here!! You might wonder – how is Huaraz in the ‘rainy season? What happens and what does everybody do? These are good questions as the city does really empty out and apart from the odd traveler, the hostels get quite empty and we do not see many travelers and climbers come through here. However, the rains make everything green and lush. The Cordillera Negra – now brown dry and dusty turns a brilliant green and becomes a wonderful place to hike around and explore! Huaracinas who during the season are hard at work in their restaurants, hostels and agencies – have a chance to get out and wonder about themselves! Personally I really look forward to the rainy season as a chance to relax a little and spend some

time with my wife and kids!!

was operated by the Huaraz culinary legend “Kristof Van Den Bussche”. Her little brother Angelo was brought in this May as a dish washer but the quick eager genetics of the Depaz family soon made him a serious player in the Trivio kitchen and now Angelo can be seen, spatula in hand, working the stoves with the best of them. No task is too daunting for this kitchen machine – who on his own will can happily put in a double shift without

losing a beat.

OK, let’s drift out from behind the tinted kitchen window and hit up the serve

staff.

Meet Alfonso – He heads up the front of the restaurant – recently married, Alfonso is a real asset that we hope stays forever. Alfonso earned a degree in bar tending and restaurant management from Cordon Bleu School of culinary arts

They make it happen - left to right: Mario, Haydee and Alex

Trivio can be found at Parque del Periodista in Huaraz - or call 943-919-850

come to mean ‘day-to-day topics’.

As the name implies, our new restaurant TRIVIO is also a junction of three trails –

the trail or story of our beer that we brew,

the trail or story of the food that we prepare

the story of our own organic coffee that we grow and toast.

So let’s check out the Trivio team.

compete in cut throat games of street football. Trivio seldo prevails in these late night engagements at least with the pollorias, however, occasionally we will kick the butt of one of the chifa teams.

In our most harrowing months during the onslaught of ‘Fiestas Patrias’ we were in desperate need for a quick learning sharp shooting attendant – we found all that and more in Mario. A compact intense waiter Mario can handle more tables then most and that is after he spends the day flying 60 km per hour down the steep road descending from El

Pinar on his long board.

So that is the team right there – we are deeply indebted to their dedication in making Trivio one of the leaders in customer service and excellence. As for us the management, they are such a pleasure to work with that I might just stop by there now – just to say hi and while I am there almost certainly will enjoy a freshly brewed, hand crafted Don Juan Porter and then as our forefathers have done before us, “take a load off and catch up with some of the day to day stuff” with some of my fellow locals.

See you there!!!

Ted Alexander

General Manager of Sierra Andina

Alfonso - Commander of Quality

The Captain of the Kitchen - Don Fortunato

Meet the Trivio TeamFrom the makers of

SIERRA ANDINA BEER

I think the obvious guy to start this whole thing off with would be the captain of the kitchen – and as any good captain, he can stay calm and cool in the midst of a hurricane of orders and tsunami multitasking. Fortunato – who was born and raised in Huaraz, wielding a kitchen knife for the first time in 1985 in the Andino Hotel and has prepared approximately 209,664 plates of food! His favorite meal to prepare is the Trivio Pasta Thai and in his own words the best part of working in Trivio is “….sharing

great times with my compañeros”

Moving on from the ‘Captain’ his 2 culinary deputies are sister and brother who also boast a long Huaracina heritage: Doris and Angelo Depaz. Doris has logged more days in the Trivio kitchen than anyone else alive, even before it was Trivio when the restaurant

So what does all this have to do with Trivio? Well, I thought to introduce the human side of Trivio to the readers – the folks whom during these last months have been working almost non-stop to create and deliver outstanding food, service and ambiance. I really do feel lucky that each of them chose to work at Trivio this year as they were the ones

who made it all possible!

In case you don’t know already – Trivio is the in-town taproom / restaurant for the local microbrewery Sierra Andina. We named it TRIVIO – from the Latin word ‘Trivium’ which means “the junction of three trails”. It was at these trail junctions that the people would take a moment on their way to the market or to work and catch up on what is going on and chat about the day-to-day stuff in their lives; hence the word ‘trivial’ has

in Lima. In addition, he brings a passion for lifting weights, Peruvian hairless dogs, biking, climbing and exploring the

Cordillera Blanca.

Haydee is another long time Trivio staff member with a history that predates the first few precarious months of Trivio. Her stint began along with Doris under the tutelage of Kristof. We have still to convince Haydee to ride a bike to work but we are getting close. Haydee is the magician behind the “Carbonada” and also holds the secret recipe for the Trivio

apple pie that she bakes daily.

Alex – Alex was one of our easiest hires! The kind of guy eager to do whatever whenever. Alex leads the late night ‘Trivio Football Team’ that after work at 1am will drive against other late night teams that emerge from the neighboring pollorrias and the occasional Chifa to



Local News

Being the editor of the Huaraz Telegraph, I was pleasantly surprised with the decision by the German Red Cross to allow us to visit an operating theatre where a cleft lip and cleft palate operation was taking place. The German team of Dr. Andreas Pöhl wasn’t interested in being interviewed but thankfully for the Huaraz Telegraph and our readers, the team found time to share some insights from their visit. We found out that the German Red Cross visits Huaraz once every two years by asking medical personnel to take of an unpaid vacation. The purpose of the visit is to help Peruvian children suffering cleft lips and cleft palates by setting up and performing operations. I have great respect for the team (more later about their motivation and the importance of teamwork) but first some facts about cleft lips (cheiloschisis) and cleft palate (palatoschisis) and their prevalence in Peru.

A cleft means a split or separation and the palate is the roof of the mouth. A cleft palate or lip is a split in the oral (mouth) structure. Physicians call clefting a craniofacial anomaly. A child can be born with both a cleft lip and cleft palate or a cleft in just one area. Oral clefts are one of the most common birth defects. It was a surprise to me to learn that all of us start out life with a cleft lip and palate. During normal foetal development between the sixth and eleventh week of pregnancy, the clefts in the lip and palate fuse together. In babies born with cleft lip or cleft palate, one or both of these splits has failed to fuse. Luckily, a cleft lip or palate can be successfully treated with surgery, especially if conducted soon after birth or in early childhood. Clefts in the lip can range from a tiny notch in the upper lip to a split that extends into the nose. A cleft palate can range from a small malformation resulting in minimal problems to a large separation of the palate that interferes with eating, speaking, and even breathing. Clefts are often referred to as unilateral, a split on one side, or bilateral, one split on each side. According to Medicinenet.com, cleft lip and cleft palate is the fourth most common birth defect in the U.S. and it affects one out of 700 babies annually.

Operacionsonrisa.org.pe claims that 2,500 children are born with this defect on a yearly basis in Peru. In the U.S. one in 700 babies are affected, whereas in Peru it’s one out of 500, meaning there is a higher risk for Peruvian mothers compared with ‘Western’ mothers. There is not total agreement on this issue and RPP-Noticias contradicts the first statement and published an article on the fifth of May 2012 claiming that there are ‘roughly’ a thousand children born yearly suffering the defect. Entnet.org states that clefts are more common with Asians and certain groups of American Indians and that the defect occurs less frequently with African Americans. Furthermore, cleft lip and cleft palate occurs more often in male children. No one knows exactly what causes clefts, but most believe they are caused by one or more of three main factors: an inherited characteristic (gene) from one or both parents, environment (poor early pregnancy health or exposure to toxins such as alcohol or cocaine), and genetic syndromes. A syndrome is an abnormality in genes or chromosomes that result in malformations or deformities that form a recognizable pattern.

It would be an understatement to say that oral clefts are unfortunate for children. Rosalyn Ordóñez Espíritu (19) from Chaupimarca (Junín) reported in December 2011 that Peruvian mothers have no real idea of what action to take and this unfortunately has resulted in totally inappropriate responses. This young mother confessed in the Peruvian newspaper Peru21 that she brutally murdered her five month old son because she couldn’t find a doctor capable of doing the cleft lip operation. Luckily, for some of these unfortunate children, once every two years, the German Red Cross comes to Peru on a voluntary basis to help. They do not charge for their services meaning that the operation is performed free of charge. Leader of the German team is Dr. Andreas Pöhl, who is a specialist in jawbone, lip and palate surgery and has an additional speciality in plastic surgery. He is assisted by Antja Dantzer who is a medical specialist in anesthesia and emergency medicine. Also in the team are Anke Weitermann a dentist, Olivia Brill, a professional in the area of lips, palate and jawbone and last

but not least Michael Weise who acts as a male nurse specialising in anesthesia.

Now let’s take a closer look at how the German team plans its visit. Logistics are an important aspect of the trip. Dr. Andreas Pöhl is the one who has responsibility for contact with the hospital prior to the trip and the hospital staff set up contact with the families of the patients. The parents of these unfortunate children have to make a reservation; otherwise an operation is not possible.

When the date of the visit is set and the team has been established, then flights and overnight stays are confirmed (these flights and hotel nights are paid part by donations and part by the team itself), the team members get different tasks to complete. One team for example will focus on logistics and another team will buy the equipment and arrange for it to be shipped from Germany to Peru. Luckily most of the team´s equipment is provided by sponsors

and donations. Once they arrive in Peru, the team first makes contact with the patients, which means they have to interview them, do checkups and provide accurate information about the operation. Sometimes it´s necessary to interview young patients along with a pediatrician (children’s doctor or other specialist) when the language barrier can’t be surmounted and the team members admit that their Spanish is not good enough. Also some families speak Quechua which will require translation as this language is virtually unknown in Germany.

Obviously, teamwork is the most important aspect of the whole campaign. Anke Weitermann said that without a good team, this type of work would be impossible. She believes that this is one of the better experiences of the trip so far. Dr. Andreas Pöhl also stresses the importance of teamwork: Ïn the hospital world nothing can be achieved without teamwork. On a campaign like this, it is crucial. Without teamwork, no doctor

Secure and precise work by the team of Dr. Andreas Pöhl


The German Red Cross helps Peruvian children with cleft lip and palate for free!



Local Newscan maintain quality standards, or work effectively and safely. Every member of the team brings his specialty and together we do a great job. It´s also more fun to work as a team, especially abroad when we try to bring the best from our world to our Peruvian friends. Without teamwork nothing works well in medicine. This is especially true for this campaign which is outside of our normal experience.¨

Michael Weise added: ¨Teamwork is top priority, regardless of the conditions at the hospital in Huaraz. Without the help of our colleagues we could not do this job successfully. Furthermore I believe every member is highly motivated and is well aware that personal matters should be put to one side.¨

I also asked them about the organisation, medical techniques and individual skills that are needed to perform operations of this type. In the first place, the team needs a hospital that functions well and is reasonably equipped. In particular, an operating room, facilities for anesthesia, a recovery room and peripherals. Also, our Peruvian volunteers have to play their part in terms of preparation, for example talking to the patients and setting up schedules. Olivia believed that donations are also very important because this type of operation costs lots of money.

Dr. Andreas mentioned the following: ¨What we need most is a very well trained and experienced team (in surgery, nursing and anesthesia). We need special instruments and medication and an operating room that works efficiently. Also, we need people who we can trust to make adequate preparations and ensure good organisation. Furthermore, patients should be briefed, informed, registered and have a place to stay before and after the operation.¨

The average day for the team is as follows. The team gets up at 6.15 am and at 7.00 they have breakfast at the hotel. At 7.30 they go to the hospital to set up the anesthesia machinery and prepare the medication as the first anesthesia will be between 8.30 and 9.00. They work until their morning schedule of operations is completed. They have a 30 minute lunch which is sponsored by the Rotary Club de Huaraz. The team works through to ten at night then goes for dinner at a restaurant in the city. When they get back to the hotel, they have a short meeting to analyse the day. Shortly afterwards, it is straight to bed because at six in the morning the alarm clock sounds again.

On a normal day, between four and five operations are completed, though this depends on the number of staff available and the number of operating theatres available. The team calculates that an operation would cost around 500 U$D if a family had to pay. The main criterion for selection is that the German surgeons are confident they can successfully rectify problems with lips, cleft palate, burns and other deformities. Mainly they want to support those families who are unable to pay for surgery. The Huaraz Telegraph was also wondering about the risks of this type of operation. Antja Dantzer said the following: ¨The operations we´re

conducting have a high risk for very young patients so good clinical practice and the correct information beforehand are very important. I am referring to the medical data about the patient prior to the operation, mostly provided by their parents. We have little to no influence on the patients after the operation because we won’t be here for another two years. In many cases, the team is concerned about the lack of adequate speech therapy and orthodontic care.¨

According to the team, they believe that there should be more public information about these medical conditions and what the possible consequences could be. They would also like to emphasise that neither the children nor the parents are to blame. Most of the time, the child is perceived as being cursed. If parents are given the correct information about treatment, this will increase the possibility of the child having normal (social) development. Doctors should have more training in child surgery in general. There is also a need for more expertise in jaw surgery, anesthesia for children and proper orthodontic cleft palate and lip procedures. Dr. Andreas thought that there should be adequate pay for doctors who work full time in hospitals. This would increase motivation and ensure they treat all patients with the same care. Many doctors in Peru show up late for work, because they also work in private clinics to pay their own bills. An affordable insurance scheme for Peruvians with serious health problems would be something Dr. Andreas would like to see.

When I talked to another member of the team, Antja Dantzer informed us that she is interested in personal development (career wise), she´d like to share her knowledge with others, learn from others, and work together with others. She is interested in South America and Peru and she also has a passion for travelling. Miss Dantzer said it feels good making other people’s lives better, giving them money and sharing her knowledge. About her motivation she said: Ï saw a notice about a job with Doctor Pöhl. I thought it was fascinating and I wanted to help immediately. Now, that I am in Peru, I feel that there is a strong bond between the people we help and the team. I am convinced that our work is very important for the children and I also believe in the importance of sharing our expertise with the people here.¨

The motivation for another team member, Olivia, comes from the opportunity to help children who really need it and giving them a chance to have a life again and not be rejected by society.

Doctor Andreas spoke about the great discrepancies in society where many people live in poverty and have very limited facilities and poor access to medical treatment. This disparity in the availability of medical care can be seen as an issue of considerable injustice in the modern world. His ultimate hope is that one day things will improve and their help will not be necessary anymore.

The German Red Cross is expected to be back in Peru sometime in 2014.



Expat in Huaraz

The Peruvian dreamAccording to I.N.E.I. statistics, 10,247 foreigners entered Peru in 2010 and stayed for over a year. Maybe they were looking for the Peruvian dream, or may-be just hanging out as tourists while visiting some of the wonders of Peru. The Free Dictionary describes the American dream as: “the notion that the Ameri-can social, economic, and political system makes success possible for every individual”. The Huaraz Telegraph is wondering whether the Peruvian dream exists and if so, how to reach for those ideals on the Latin American continent being an expat?

When walking along the street it´s easy to spot the difference between a tour-ist and an expat. Whereas most tourists wear their tiny day backpacks, zip-off pants and have a camera around their neck, most of the time the expat walks at a faster pace from A to B.

When I travelled the world I always won-dered (I still do) how it would be being a foreigner in a country like Cambodia, Egypt or Bolivia. Why would you want to live there in the first place? Well, expats might have their stories and reasons I guess. This is why in every edition of the Huaraz Telegraph, we´re interviewing an expat living in Huaraz. Ever wondered how it would be to leave your friends, family and belongings behind and move to Huaraz? First a small insight into the numbers and stats before we head to the interview.

I know a lot of the foreigners living in Huaraz but not all and, therefore, I doubted they would be registered; resulting in skewed stats. To be com-pletely honest, I was wondering whether there would be any stats at all. I went to the I.N.E.I (National Institute of Statistics and Computer science) in Huaraz and asked them the simple question: How many gringos are living in Huaraz or Ancash? The answer was as interest-ing as the question. After signing up and explaining the purpose of my visit, I was shown a couple of statistical books and told I should be able to find the answer

immigrants was 39,576, representing a 62.5% of the total registered between 1994 and 2010. The period between 1999 and 2004 represents an increase of 14,707 ńuevos gringos´ signifying 23.2% of the total.

Another interesting graph in the docu-ment shows that 59% of the immigrants are between 20 and 49 years of age. Immigrants younger than 19 years of age represent 9.7% of the immigrant popula-tion, 16.2% are 60 or older representing 10,257 people. When we look at the gender of the immigrants there is an interesting chart showing us that 39.8% of the immigrants are women whereas 60.2% are men representing a total of 63,316 immigrants (38,145 males to 25,171 females). Their marital status shows that 26,813 (45.5%) of the settlers are married and 19,635 are single. A total of 12,526 people are either divorced, widowed or didn’t want to specify.

Just before the document starts to talk about the country of origin, it mentions that 50,950 people have come to Peru by air, entering the country at Jorge Chavez National Airport. A small 5.9% entered from the south in Tacna (Santa Rosa), 3.3% from Bolivia (Desaguadero) and a 2.5% came from the north crossing the border from Ecuador at Aguas Verdes. A total of 1,389 arrived at the harbour of Callao (probably shipwrecked and unable to return home).

The author of the stats declares that there exists a strong concentration of regional immigrants referring to 33.3% of foreigners coming from Latin American countries such as Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. Leaving the continent, surprisingly to me, the Europeans form 27.6% of the newcomers whereas the North Ameri-can continent only accounts for 17.8%. Asian countries, mainly China and Japan, are good for 16.7% where Mexico helps Central America with 3.5%. Oceania and Africa have the least immigrants with

respectively 0.7% and 0.5%.

As you just have read, to qualify for the status of immigrant you will need to stay in Peru for over a year. This is also the condition for our interview and in this last edition of 2013, we conducted the inter-view with the lady who wrote the often and by many appauded pages 14 and 15 of this newspaper.

1. Who are you?

My name is Marie Timmermans. I am from Belgium. 2. How old are you and what’s your profession?

I am 37 years old. I run the travel agency QUECHUANDES with my husband and we organise treks, mountaineering expe-ditions, rock-climbing trips, day hikes, as well as sightseeing tours.

3. How long have you been living in Huaraz?

I have been living in Huaraz since May 2010.

4 What brought you to Huaraz?

I came to Huaraz for the first time in Au-gust 2009. I love trekking and I was look-ing for a summer trip; the Huayhuash trek was the perfect choice. David, now my husband, was the assistant guide. We obviously got on very well during the trek, so much so that I decided to come back to Huaraz at the end of my trip to see him again, and climb Mount Pisco. I had pre-viously travelled extensively in Asia but it was my first trip to South America.

I certainly didn’t expect to end up getting married to a Peruvian and settling down in Huaraz! At the time, after 15 years of living in London, I was tired of the big city and thought the Peruvian Andes offered a good change. So I packed my bags

there. Well, after half an hour of searching …nothing!

How about the number of foreigners in Peru and the number of immigrants every year? That was a little easier to find. On the I.N.E.I website there are loads of stats on Peruvian emigration as well as Peruvian immigration between 1990 and 2011. Not bad, still up-to-date and even easily accessible. All stats mentioned in chapter IV on page 73 are for Foreign Residential Immigrants in Peru, concern-ing foreigners that have arrived to Peru between 1994 and 2010 and have NOT left the country after less than a year. This means that, even though Peru has a law that visitors may only stay up to a maximum of 183 days a year, ´gringos´ are, after one year, considered immigrants in the Republic of Peru.

Between 1994 and 2010, 63,316 foreign-ers were considered residents of Peru without any migration movement noticed crossing borders to leave the country. Be-tween 1994 and 2003, the number of for-eigners entering Peru was never higher than 2,500 individuals. However, between 2004 and 2006, the number of immi-grants reached up to almost 4,000 people with 6,000 in 2007. The latest stats show that in 2010 at least 10,247 foreigners stayed in Peru longer than one year and are considered as immigrants. This study also notes that the number of immigrants has increased in the last few years. Between 2005 and 2010, the number of

33.3% of the Peruvian immigrants are from the same continent (South America)

The number of immigrants is growing by the year (I.N.E.I. stats)



Expat in Huarazand eight months later I was off to Peru to see what life could be like. Given that I am still here three years later, it obviously worked out!

5. How has your life changed over the years?

My life has changed drastically since I moved to Peru, and for the better! First of all, life is much more chilled out, not as stressful as in Europe. I work very hard and earn a lot less than back home, but having my own business means that I also get freedom, which is priceless.

There is nothing quite like being your own boss, and I do a job that I love. The climate here is much nicer than in grey London and Belgium. Nothing beats the daily Andean sun and blue sky! And not having to plan things out in advance is a treat; it’s great to be spontaneous!

6. What are your favourite hangout spots in Huaraz?

I enjoy dining out in several restaurants especially the pizza at El Horno. I also love the fresh fruit juices at the Fruti Fruti-ta juice bar, the caldo de gallina at Teo’s and Margarita’s picarones in La Soledad. I don’t go out that much, but when I do, I like going to the 13 Buhos Café.

7. What is it you miss the most from back home, and how often do you go back?

I do not miss much from home, having left Belgium when I was 18 years old, but when I go back to Europe once a year, I enjoy eating tons of chocolate and patisserie treats in Belgium, and curries in London.

8. What is it you like most about Huaraz?

I love leaving my house in the morn-ing, turning the corner and enjoying the fantastic views of the Cordillera Blanca. After three years I haven’t yet tired of this morning treat! I also love being able to walk to work, not having a fixed sched-ule, and not having to rush constantly. A stress-free life is brilliant and makes up largely for all the small inconveniences that life in Peru may bring. Huaraz is not a pretty town at first glance, but it is very much alive.

I like the fact that you see traditionally dressed people walking side by side with tourists on the street. Huaraz has pretty much all the facilities that one may need and is neither too big, nor too small. Be-ing situated at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca, access to the mountains is quick and easy and the best thing about living in Huaraz is that you can be at the foot of a glacier in a couple of hours! I go to the mountains as often as possible, with clients or family.

9. What’s your opinion of the tourist business in Huaraz?

The tourist industry in Huaraz is very disappointing and plagued with prob-lems. Lack of organisation, corruption, exploitation of people and animals, abuse of the environment, mistreatment of the tourists are just a few examples that are unfortunately very common here. These issues are not the fault of any particular individual, but rather the result of many factors. The government can be blamed with regard to the lack of regulation and the incidence of corruption, which are un-fortunately far too common all over Peru and not just in Huaraz. When it comes to exploitation of people and animals (and abuse of the environment) things get a little more complex.

It is very easy to blame the agencies for these issues, and obviously they are very much to blame, but tourists also play a significant role in this. It is no secret that responsible tourism always involves not paying rock-bottom prices; because in order to pay a fair wage to their staff, agencies need more money and the same goes for not overloading the ani-mals, which means using more of them, which of course is costly. And as far as the environment is concerned, picking up your rubbish takes time and effort and carrying toilet tents adds weight to the donkeys’ load.

The situation in Huaraz is very interest-ing. Although the cost of living increases yearly, some agencies manage to lower their prices (don’t forget that these prices are extremely low to start with) and this to please some tourists who are endlessly hunting for the lowest possible fare. It seems that a large proportion of the tour-ists coming to Huaraz is more concerned about paying little money for a trip rather than travelling responsibly. That is a shame.

The problems run quite deep. In Peru, people don’t speak out about problems; it seems that everyone prefers to ignore them. Many people think that I’m very dramatic when I talk about the state of the tourist industry; few are the ones who acknowledge the problems, and fewer still who want to do something about them. Well, I will carry on speaking out about these issues, because in order to change things, one must first acknowl-edge the problem. And I hope I can con-vince some people working in the tourist industry to treat their staff, pack animals and tourists with more respect. Some tourists do go the responsible way and try to put an end to human and animal exploitation in the Huaraz tourist industry, as well as preserving the beautiful moun-tains that they so enjoy.

10. What sites or activities do you recommend (or not) to our readers?

There are so many fantastic sites around

Marie Timmermans with the Huascarán in the background

you have a business which relies so heavily on other people (guides, cooks, muleteers, porters, drivers) it is incredibly difficult to run it consistently in a profes-sional manner. It is not impossible, I believe we manage very well despite the circumstances, but it certainly is incred-ibly hard work.

Work ethics here are very different from Europe, things generally do not run smoothly, but I guess that when you manage to succeed you can be proud of yourself, because you certainly do not get help from anyone here. Some people in Huaraz, especially in the tourist business, are remarkably selfish, short sighted and ignorant. But I guess I can say that over-all living in Peru is more “dreamy” than “hellish”, the pros by far outweigh the cons, otherwise I wouldn’t live here! The fact that people in general are less ma-terialistic than in Europe and live a more simple life is very good and important to me. Every time I go back to Europe I am saddened to see how reliant on and obsessed by material things people are. Being close to nature is extremely good for the soul!

13. How do you see your future in Huaraz?

I am 100% happy to live in Huaraz and so I plan to live here for a very long time.

Thanks for your time

Are you an expat living in Huaraz? Contact us for an interview and become the first in our 2014 edition!


Huaraz, that it is difficult to just recommend a few. If you like trekking, the Huayhuash trek is a must. For day hikers, Lake 69 is fantastic. The sum-mit views from Mount Pisco are hard to beat. Seeing the extraordinary Puya Raimondii plant is another one of the region’s highlights. The little-explored Conchucos Valley is full of cultural, archaeologi-cal and natural treasures, yet very few people know about it. For those with a sense of adventure, plenty of time and a love of being off-the-beaten track, this is the place to be. And little Lake Wilcacocha is a real gem, offering some of the most impressive pan-oramic views of the Cordillera Blanca.

11. If you were to become the Mayor of Huaraz one day, what would you do or change?

Many things can be done to improve the town. I would build enclosures to put the rubbish in, that would pre-vent dogs from making such a mess; sort out the dog problem (too many stray dogs); plant more trees (there is too much concrete in the town); em-ploy qualified and motivated people at the municipality instead of relatives and friends (which should make things far more efficient); stop corruption (although this is much easier said than done as corruption is so engrained in all levels of Peruvian society); stop annoying people trying to go about their business and con-centrate on catching the real criminals; fix the roads (a lot has been done, but much work remains). I would also support initia-tives such as rock-climbing competitions; Huaraz is Peru’s adventure capital, yet no one in town wants to support events like these!

12. Are you living the Peruvian dream (explain)?

I am not sure the Peruvian dream really exists. In some ways I guess it does, liv-ing on the doorstep of one of the world’s most magnificent mountain range is definitely something special, especially since access to the mountains is quick and easy, within an hour you are already there! That makes Huaraz a very attrac-tive place. The chilled, less hurried pace of life is also a bonus, and the fact that you can just meet friends on the street and don’t have to plan meetings months in advance! I like the fact that life is spon-taneous here. Having my own business is a luxury that I probably could not have if I lived in Europe. On the downside, life in Peru is by no means easy. Corrup-tion, inefficiency, lack of infrastructures are making life difficult sometimes. When


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Local News

and making double ropes. Practicing made us feel comfortable with the ice and each other. We were acclimatised and we felt ready to climb Vallunaraju.

“Then on the second day, as we were climbing up the standard path (which starts in the valley from the refugio and leads to the mountain), we could see that the top part had been taken off because of glacial erosion. So the path stopped after following the grassy part and it got narrower until we ended up at the rock face with a gully below it. It looked like we were 20 metres away from the grassy ledge that would lead us to the Morrene Camp just before heading towards the summit. We were asking each other whether we could climb around it or lower ourselves into the ravine and climb up from there instead. We had a full set of climbing equipment and it was described in the guide as an “easy rock pitch”. But the rock did not look an easy climb at all and there was no way that it was going to be safe, especially since we felt we did not have the right rock-climbing shoes with us. We backed off the rock pitch and instead went into the ravine. After scrambling up, it became steeper so we decided it would be too dangerous to go that way; we headed back down, all the way through the ravine. At that moment, it started snowing so we decided (as we had enough food) to go back to the glacier and camp there, at a much safer place. What´s concerning us now (and we did report it after the accident at the refuge) is that we were not the only people attempting that route because we met a Czech couple on the way as well.

“The next morning, we dried out our kit as it had snowed that night. We were relaxed and we took our time making sure everything was organised, orderly packing our rucksack so everything would be easily accessible. We knew it was going to be a little bit risky going up there as we had already experienced the day before. We could see a little bit of rock fall all day but it was really small stuff. We got up to the top of the ravine. We were

thirsty, so we were thinking of pumping up some water but our pump had stopped working. Although we had some water purifying pills, we decided to climb up and get the water from there while setting a camp. We hiked right up the gully and there was the overhanging rock part, just after the waterfall. It was a gully with no loose rocks in it and it looked like water had once flowed through it. We then decided that Niels was going to take the lead, because if was the more logical thing to do.

“It happened within seconds,” recalled Niels. “We were getting all the gear together as Jonathan didn’t even have his harness on when I remember him saying, Óh, shit!´ with his hands up. And then I remember only the shadow of a rock. I tried to shield myself in the rockface but I guess it was too late. I remember nothing between then and coming to my senses, later on, lying on the ground.

Lucky escape at the Moraine of Ocshapalca

Posing for a picture when back at the refuge with the heroes of the rescue teamThe Huaraz Telegraph

Pablo where they were recovering very well.

Niels Carlson and Jonathan Clark had met at Hatun Machay (The Forest of Rocks) where they practiced climbing for four days. They found out they had a similar level of climbing ability (6B+) and, during their stay at the Forest, they spoke about going on a trip together. Although Carlson had acquired a huge amount of climbing skills in the States, he admitted that he had never practiced alpine climbing before; Clark was more experienced with climbing Mount Kenya and multi-pitch (the ascent of climbing routes with one or more stops at a belay station) and, as a keen trekker, had also gained glacier experience in Northern India, Pakistan and in Huaraz, eight years before their meeting. Their talks gave them a clear view and a good assessment of their abilities. Nevertheless one can’t always cover every angle because, as they look back on their ordeal, making one small mistake – or taking the wrong route – almost became lethal. On the other hand, as noted by Clark, both were unlucky because they were only minutes away from getting out of the glacier, as only a rock pitch stood between them and the way out. “It looked like a nice, clean rock face, to get us where we wanted to be, and then it happened,” said Carlson.

Jon Clark continued: “What happened is that we got up a little ledge that was about six feet (1.82 metres) above the ground on the right of a waterfall. The rock was very solid. We had chosen that gully because it was the widest of two and therefore safer to walk up on. There was a little rock coming down: we were aware of it because it was our third day in that area.

“On the first day, we practiced on the glacier because I don’t have much ice-climbing experience. We had all the gear, we had the ice screws, we had enough food and finally we had a great afternoon practicing making V-Threads, roping up

In this the last edition of the high season, the Huaraz Telegraph would like to share the story of Niels Carlson (23) and Jonathan Clark (44) who, thanks to the rescue team (AGMP, UIAGM) of Casa de Guias and the park guards, made it back alive to Huaraz. Tragedy occurred shortly after noon on August 11th near the Vallunaraju Mountain, at the Quebrada Llaca, Nevado Ocshapalca, 5,888 metres above sea level, when both men were hit by an avalanche of falling rocks. Niels Carlson was hit the hardest and suffered from a broken leg, about 14 cm above his knee. It was lucky that neither the American nor the Brit became victims number nine and ten of this year’s deadly mountaineering season. Carlson and Clark are aware they took a huge risk for which they almost paid the ultimate price possible. They admit they are very happy they actually can share the story of their adventure in the mountains.

Before we head to the interview, we would like to pay tribute to and remember those who didn’t make it back alive. These are Víctor Sánchez Caldua and Mesías Milla Villanueva (both from Peru) who died on the Alpamayo Mountain on May 23rd. On June 24th Jacob Matreck (from the Czech Republic) died on the Tocllaraju Mountain. On the same mountain two weeks later, two Argentinians, Natalio Funes and Leonardo Brasnik, were killed. On July 25th news reached the world that Thomas Jagger (from England) was lost; he still hasn’t been found. It is assumed that his body rests somewhere on the Pisco Glacier. On July 28th, Independence Day in Peru, the young Miguel Gamarra Maza (from the nearby town of Recuay) lost his life on Huantsán. The latest victim is Nicolás Made (from Argentina) who died on the Chacraraju Mountain.

Luckily, Carlson and Clark made it back alive and we met them in the Clinica San

Niels Carlson receiving first aid and being put on a stretcher

Jon said that he “looked up and saw a rock of about four-foot across and two-foot high, it was more like a boulder; it was huge, coming down. It bashed a couple of times and I dodged it, somehow,” he recalled. “If it had hit me, I wouldn’t have survived. I remember Niels flying off with his legs flipped up in the air. Then, there was a second one coming down, which was smaller but this one hit me on the head. Then I spotted Niels, luckily alive, in the waterfall. I threw both rucksacks down as we were eight feet apart. I jumped down as I wasn’t sure if there were more rocks coming down and had to drag him from the waterfall to a

¨What saved us was the rescue team because there is no way I would have

been able to bring Niels down. It wasn’t a helicopter but still…

And they were fast!¨

Jonathan Clark on the rescue team that saved his partner



Local NewsIrishman opens Papa Loca

restaurant in HuarazOnly restaurant in Huaraz serving traditional English fish and chips, Irish

stew, cottage pie and apple crumble with homemade custard.

On April 20th Trevor Eagleson opened the doors to his new restaurant Papa Loca with free samples, cocktails and good company enjoying its cosy fire

place.

When asked about the restaurant Trevor replied “I want to create something different in Huaraz, of course most of the usual Peruvian dishes are available

including the Andean delicacy of guinea pig but I also want to focus on bringing more diversity to the international cuisine in Huaraz.

I’ve travelled a lot in South America and know how it feels to miss certain foods; hopefully with this menu I can cater to those travellers missing some home

comforts. Add a few cocktails with an 8-10pm buy one get one free happy hour, good portions at reasonable prices and we should have a few smiling faces

leaving the restaurant.”

Papa Loca can be found in Hotel Los Portales, Raimondi 903 and is open from 5pm-11pm Tuesday-Sunday.

In September a free pancake with every two main meals ordered!

Opening night cocktails at Papa Loca

safer place. Niels was thinking the same after seeing his leg was lying in an odd angle and, worrying that more stuff might soon fall down; he was already trying to move. Everything happened really fast.

“Once we had positioned ourselves in a safe dry spot near the waterfall, Niels put himself in a more comfortable position and got the medical supplies and the painkillers. My head was bleeding and I had a broken finger; Niels put a bandage around his flesh wound and wrapped his leg in a sleeping bag. Incredibly, he was really very calm and not freaking out at all, it was like we were still camping of something.

of climbing back up there made me feel most nervous, because I was asking myself ‘what am I going to find?’ “Once Jon came around the corner”, Niels recalled “I was so relieved because I assumed that help was on the way. Then, a bit later when he had put some warm clothes on and we were about to make tea, the first two rescue members arrived, followed by two others. Jon was directed back down to the refuge. They tied me up on a stretcher and brought me down on a very loose and steep path. The guides of the rescue team did a great job! At the refuge, we got hot drinks and it was about 2.30 am when we arrived at the clinic.”

Jon continued: “Looking up at the bottom of the ravine, I could see the mistake we had made. On top of this red solid cliff you could see a bit of ice. So the glacier was still moving and any loose rocks on top were just directed down in that crack. The route seduced us and it looked perfect, but we were so wrong! The guides told us later they hadn’t used that route in five years. You have to come up from the southeast face. We took a calculated risk, although I don’t believe luck should be part of climbing. Remember, I climbed the same mountain eight years ago and I was far less experienced but the ravine wasn’t there then. I actually got on the ridge with a partner who wasn’t experienced either.

“What saved us was the rescue team because there is no way I would have been able to bring Niels down. It wasn’t a helicopter but still… And they were fast! But we look back at it positively and will learn from it. I will probably get some criticism from my family. Mountains are dangerous places, full stop! But I am sure we’ll keep in contact. My next trip will be to the States. We will go rock climbing together again.”

During the interview, Clark mentioned that a colleague of his, from the same climbing club in London, got killed just recently on Yosemite’s El Capitan. The British man (Felix Joseph Kiernan), who was a doctor on a sabbatical, was about 600 feet up on the popular East Buttress route when he got hit by a by a falling rock that his partner had dislodged.

“I went as fast as I could to the refuge and my main worry was that there would be no one there. Luckily there was a ranger and also the Czech couple we had seen earlier. No much explanation was needed: although I don’t speak Spanish, they immediately understood something was really wrong. We went back running until we got to the point where I could see the waterfall and I said: ‘Niels is right there!’

Then the ranger made clear in Spanish that there was no point for him to go any closer because he had to direct the AGMP Mountain Rescue Team. The idea

Pictures courtesy of Tom Antony, who is a member of the rescue team of the Asociacion de Guias de Montaña del Peru AGMP/UIAGM.

Jonathan with blood dripping down his face

clinica San Pablo




Tourist Information

The Cordillera Blanca offers countless opportunities for trekkers and climbers, as well as for people not so keen on physical activities. The wonderful lakes and glaciers of the White Range are easily accessible from the town of Huaraz. Here is a quick guide to the best activities around Huaraz.

DAY TRIPS

Daily sightseeing tours

These tours are great for those of you who are not so active, or who need to acclimatise before heading out into the mountains.

LLANGANUCO – This tour visits the villages in the Huaylas Valley (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz), and the beautiful Llanganuco Lake. Be aware that you will only spend from 40 minutes to one hour at the lake. Daily departures.

CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – This tour takes you to Chavin, a village situated on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca in the Conchucos Valley. Here you can visit the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring some of the oldest and most significant pre-Inca ruins in Peru. You also make a stop at the lovely Lake Querococha along the way. Departs every day except Mondays when the ruins are closed for maintenance.

PASTORURI – This tour visits the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, with the amazing Pastoruri glacier, which is still well worth a visit despite having lost 40% of its ice in recent years. You can’t help but be impressed by the huge ice cliffs and the Puya Raimondii – a rare 12m high bromeliad plant which you visit on the way to the glacier. Make sure you become acclimatised before going on this tour as the glacier is at 5000m. Departs every day.

Day hikes

These hikes are perfect for those needing to acclimatise before a trek, or for those with limited time.

LAKE CHURUP, 4485m – This is one of the closest and easily accessible hiking routes from Huaraz, leading to a very beautiful turquoise/emerald green coloured glacial lake. It can be quite challenging as there are some steep sections, and there is a rock wall before the lake which you need to scramble up to (there are wires to help you up). It can be tricky in the rainy season when the rock is wet and incredibly slippery, so be careful. It is recommended not to hike alone; for those of you with limited hiking experience it is advisable to go with a guide, as he will carry a rope that will help you go up and down the rock wall safely. For experienced hikers a guide is not necessary as the path is easy to find. The trailhead at Llupa can be easily reached by public transport.

LAKE 69, 4550m – This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the northern

section of the national park. From Huaraz it’s roughly a three hour drive to the trailhead (Cebollapampa), the journey is incredibly scenic with great views of Mount Huascaran and the Llanganuco Lakes. The hike is of moderate difficulty, but can be challenging for those with limited acclimatisation. You can reach the trailhead by public transport, but finding transport to get back can prove very difficult, so it is recommended to hire private transport from Huaraz. For those with hiking experience a guide is not necessary as the path is clear. The lake is stunning for its pristine blue colour, and its fantastic location at the foot of the mighty Mount Chacraraju. You are rewarded with awesome views of the Cordillera Blanca’s highest summits during the hike.

LAKE LLACA, 4470m – This is one of the closest lakes to Huaraz. It takes two hours by private transport to reach the trailhead at the Llaca refuge. From there it is a short hike to reach the lake. The lake is not as stunning as others in the region, but it is a good option for those wishing to acclimatise with limited effort and time. It is possible to do ice climbing here, but the ice walls tend to be full of sand.

LAKE AGUAC, 4580m – This is another lake located close to Huaraz. The trail starts at the ruins of Wilcahuain and is fairly easy to find. It is quite a long hike and the altitude can make it challenging. The lake doesn’t have a special colour, but there are some great mountain views.

TREKKING

Easy to moderate treks

SANTA CRUZ TREK (four days) – Undoubtedly the Cordillera Blanca’s most famous and popular trek. It is suitable for novice hikers, but good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. This trek deserves its fame; offering varied scenery and endless views of majestic snow-capped peaks, jewelled glacial lakes and gorgeous Andean valleys. For those with ample experience of trekking at high altitude, this trek is doable without a guide, but be sure to follow the national park rules especially to carry all your rubbish out of the park. Ask in town for directions before heading out, as although easy to follow, the path is not signposted. Departures for this trek in an all-inclusive organised group run daily in high season, but standards vary from one company to the next. The trek can be completed in three or four days, but if you do it in three days you will miss the side trip to the Alpamayo base camp and Lake Arhuaycocha, which is undoubtedly one of the trek’s highlights.

OLLEROS – CHAVIN TREK also known as LLAMA TREK (three days) – A less popular trek, it mainly crosses vast expanses of puna, following ancient pre-Inca and Inca paths that lead to the village of Chavin. There are no glacial lakes and few snow-capped mountain views during this trek, but you will come across isolated communities.

Moderate to challenging treks

QUILCAYHUANCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – A stunning trek which goes through some less-visited, but none the less stunning valleys of the Cordillera Blanca. It is a much tougher trek than the Santa Cruz for two reasons. First there are no donkeys to carry all the equipment, so you will have to carry a backpack weighing around 15kg (the weight depends on the number of porters accompanying the group). Second, because the pass is much higher. At 5050m the path leading up to it is very steep, rocky and generally not well trodden. The way down from the pass is even steeper and more challenging. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers who wish to experience peace and tranquillity. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek.

AKILPO – ISHINCA TREK (three days) – This trek is similar in difficulty to the Quilcayhuanca trek, although donkeys can be used (they do not go over the pass but go back and around). The pass is very high at 5050m and the path leading up to it is steep and not well marked. The trek starts at the pre-Inca ruins of Honcopampa, and then goes up the Akilpo Valley through beautiful forests of local quenual trees, before reaching the superb Lake Akilpo just before the pass. Then you go down to the Ishinca Valley. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers looking for an alternative to the Santa Cruz trek. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek.

ISHINCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – This trek is vastly different to all the others, because it includes a glacier traverse requiring the use of equipment such as crampons and ropes. Bringing you much closer to the giant icy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, the views are simply spectacular. This trek is only suitable for very fit and experienced hikers, but does not require any mountaineering technical knowledge. Thorough acclimatisation is essential as you will go well over 5000m. It is possible to include a summit climb to Mount Ishinca (5530m) during this trek.

Challenging treks

HUAYHUASH TREK (eight or ten days) – The Huayhuash full circuit trek

is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful. It is a trek that requires good physical condition and acclimatisation, because it crosses many high passes (eight passes minimum ranging from 4650m to 5050m) and the campsites are all above 4100m. Trekkers are rewarded with endless breath-taking views of stunning glacial lakes, pristine valleys and icy peaks, which can be extremely close. There are many alternatives possible for the itinerary, but the most common group departures are for the eight day and ten day treks. Those with more time and wishing to explore less visited valleys of the range can do the trek in as many as 15 days, and take the more challenging high trail. Those with limited time can do the four day Mini Huayhuash trek, which visits one of the range’s most beautiful locations: the Lake Jahuacocha area.

CEDROS – ALPAMAYO TREK (seven or ten days) – This trek is less popular than the Huayhuash trek, and also very different, although not less beautiful. It is probably a bit more challenging too, even though the passes are not as high (eight passes on the full circuit ranging from 4400m to 4850m), but the trails leading up to the passes are much steeper. You are unlikely to meet many trekkers and will come across several isolated Quechua communities who still follow a traditional lifestyle.

The highlight of this trek is undoubtedly the view from Jancarurish of Mount Alpamayo, known as the World’s most Beautiful Mountain thanks to its near perfect pyramid of ice. You will not see as many glacial lakes and close-up views of glaciers on this trek as on the Huayhuash trek, but the landscape is much more varied and the isolation a real bonus. The trek can be done in seven days starting in Hualcayan or Huancarhuas and finishing in Pomabamba, allowing one worthwhile rest day in Jancarurish, but take into account that you need a full day to travel back to Huaraz from Pomabamba (night buses are not recommended due to frequent robberies on this route). For those with more time, you can add extra days by joining on to the Santa Cruz trek at the end, making it a ten or 11 day itinerary if finishing in Cashapampa, or a nine day itinerary if finishing in Vaqueria. The trek can be done in reverse, but it is tougher.

All you should know about day trips, trekking, mountaineering and bouldering


WARNING FOR TOURISTS:

AVOID THE RATAQUENUA CROSS AND DON´T HIKE FROM THE RUINS OF WILCAHUAIN TOWARDS THE BAÑOS TERMALES IN MONTERREY




Tourist InformationMOUNTAINEERING

Keep in mind that glacier conditions change from year to year, so what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses the following year. So make sure to check the latest conditions in town before setting out on any of these expeditions.

Non-technical climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with no previous mountaineering experience; however, even though they are often referred to as trekking peaks these expeditions, although not technical, are harder than a trek, due to the fact that you wake up at midnight, walk in the dark and use heavy equipment such as mountain boots and crampons. If you are fit and have experience of trekking at high altitude and want to experience being on a glacier, then one of these peaks is for you.

MOUNT PISCO, 5752m (three days) – This expedition offers some of the best summit views of any peak of the Cordillera Blanca, and for that reason is very popular. Crossing the moraine takes two to three hours and is considered the most challenging part of the expedition. It is possible to include a hike to Lake 69 on the last day.

MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, 5686m (two days) – This expedition can be quite challenging, because no donkeys can be used, you have to carry a 15kg backpack up a steep path to moraine camp on day one. It is very popular due to its proximity to Huaraz making it a short expedition.

MOUNT ISHINCA, 5530m (three days) – This peak is mostly used as an acclimatisation peak for those wanting to climb the higher and more technical Mount Tocllaraju, which is situated in the same valley.

MOUNT TUCO, 5479m (two days) – A very seldom climbed peak, although it offers a relatively short and easy ascent, as well as the chance to see the rare Puya Raimondii plant.

Intermediate level climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with some mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness.

MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, 6034m (four days) – This expedition is perfect for those who have climbed a non-technical summit previously and want to take the next step in the mountaineering world by trying something more technical. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. The relatively short summit ascent makes it a perfect first 6000m+ peak.

MOUNT CHOPICALQUI, 6354m (four days) – This expedition has the same technical difficulty level as Mount Tocllaraju, but it is a more difficult climb due to the much longer summit route and higher altitude. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use

of ice axes. It offers one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most beautiful ascent routes along its southwest ridge.

MOUNT HUASCARAN SOUTH, 6768m (seven days) – Although not very difficult from a technical point a view, this is an extremely tough expedition suitable only for mountaineers with plenty of experience, because of the difficult climbing conditions (crevasses, risk of avalanche, extreme cold and altitude). Do not underestimate the difficulty of this climb.

Technical climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with plenty of technical mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from

altitude sickness.

MOUNT ALPAMAYO, 5947m (seven days) – This is a serious and technically challenging expedition requiring the ascent of a 470m high ice wall. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. Please note that the ascent from base camp to high camp is particularly challenging, given that you need to climb up a 60m high ice wall (at a 55 degree incline), carrying your backpack. Known as the World’s Most Beautiful Mountain, each year Alpamayo attracts many mountaineers from the world over.

MOUNT ARTESONRAJU, 6025m (five days) – This is a mentally, physically and technically demanding climb requiring the ascent of a 600m high ice wall, at an incline of 50 degrees. Excellent crampon

and ice axe techniques are essential, as well as an excellent physical condition. Two ascent routes are possible, either from Lake Paron or from the Santa Cruz Valley.

ROCK CLIMBING & BOULDERING

Rock climbing and bouldering spots are plentiful around Huaraz. All types of climbing, at all levels, with many different types of rock, fantastic views, and no chance to get bored! Check with local climbers or travel agencies specialising in rock climbing for a detailed list of the necessary equipment and help with logistics.

CHANCOS – Located 32km northeast of Huaraz in the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca, Chancos is the perfect place for beginners and climbers with limited experience. After climbing, a good option is to visit the Chancos Hot Springs which are situated an easy ten-minute walk away.

LOS OLIVOS – This is the closest climbing spot to Huaraz, situated only three kilometres from the town centre. It features a large number of equipped sport- climbing routes in five different sectors, as well as several boulders, suitable for climbers with some experience. From here you get an amazing panoramic view of the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca.

ANTACOCHA – Situated 35km south of Huaraz in the Cordillera Negra it is one of the few places in the area offering long routes with a variety of difficulty levels, suitable for climbers with limited or a lot of experience alike. The 180m high wall towers high above Lake Antacocha. This place offers a magnificent vantage point of the Cordillera Blanca, especially at sunset.

HATUN MACHAY – Located 104km south of Huaraz at 4300m high in the Cordillera Negra, this stunning rock forest is a paradise for rock climbing and bouldering with some 250 equipped sport-climbing routes and countless boulders, suitable for all levels. It is also a great place for hiking, as it offers some amazing viewpoints with views of the Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash and the Pacific Ocean, as well as many caves with ancient rock paintings and carvings dating back to 10,000BC.

THE SPHYNX – Also known as The Colossus of the Andes it is situated 90km northeast of Huaraz in the Paron Valley and is considered to be one of the most amazing granite rock walls in South America, offering a variety of traditional climbing routes with superb views of the snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca surrounding it. Given its extreme altitude (5325m), it is essential to be well acclimatised before setting off on this climb and to have sufficient experience in traditional climbing. It takes an average of three days to complete the climb.

Information and photo ´tip of the month´ provided by David Lazo from QUECHUANDES Travel & Adventure Agency

POMALLUCAYPomallucay is a tiny Andean village situated at 3360m in the Conchucos Valley. Only around 2500 people live there, yet the village is famous in the region thanks to the Sanctuary of the Lord of Pomallucay, a magnificent church built by the Don Bosco

artisans and volunteers from the Italian NGO Mato Grosso.

Pomallucay is a Quechua word meaning “where he got on the puma”. According to a local legend there was a puma that lived in a wood near the village of Pomallucay. One day an archbishop named Toribio of Mongrovejo came by mule to the region on

pastoral duty and decided to take a rest in the wood. The puma devoured his mule, and the archbishop got very angry and ordered the puma to replace it, which he of course couldn’t. And so it is that the archbishop rode on the puma all the way to Piscobamba.

Pomallucay is today a very important pilgrimage site, and on 14th September pilgrims come the world over to take part in celebrations in honour of the Lord of Pomallucay.

The church, built with local stone and wood in a Roman style similar to the Vatican’s Saint Peters basilica, holds a sacred image of the Lord of Pomallucay, often referred to as the “Lord with the melancholic look”. Building of the church began in 1992 and ended in 1996, but local artisans, mostly from the famous nearby village of Chacas, never stop

to add details.

There is also a Salesian seminary in the village, where young people from different countries as well as from the surrounding villages are trained to be priests and follow in the footsteps of Father Ugo de Censi, the Italian priest who founded the Don Bosco

school of artisans in Chacas.

Pomallucay is located a 40-minute drive from the village of Chacas and some 3-hour drive from the village of Yanama.

Chacas can now be reached easily since the construction of the new road and tunnel, making travel time from Huaraz a mere 3 hours.

TIP OF THE MONTH





Local News

and did not have the interpreter, but the local WV staff made everything easy and comfortable. Again, we met Carmina and her aunt in the local WV office, but we were also treated to a visit around the local community to see what WV has been up to. We visited the humble, one roomed adobe house of a family who cooked us a lunch on their WV built, woodfired stove, and proudly showed off their fly-screen covered food storage cupboard, also supplied by WV. Before that stove was built, this family cooked on stones on the floor of their house. Carmina and her family live in beautiful countryside, but in obvious poverty.

Carmina does not have her mother around and has taken on the responsibility of looking after her younger brothers, including cooking for them, taking them to school and helping them with their school work. From my visit I could not really say whether she is happy with her lot or not, but I could see that

she had support from her community, particularly her aunt, who lives near by. Carmina is clearly a girl who is willing and capable of taking on responsibilities far beyond what might be expected of a girl her age. We are pleased to be able to constructively support that in some small way.

We are also pleased that both Cristian and Carmina know that there are people from Australia; a country they knew either very little, or nothing about before, who care about who they and their families are and what they do. We can’t visit them regularly, but we can and do keep in touch, with letters and photos. Now these letters and photos we exchange have a lot more meaning for all of us.

Written following our visits in April and May of 2013.

Belinda Bold & Michael McGann from Australia.

more, but there is another side.

We chose to sponsor one, then a second child in Peru specifically because I have always had a fascination with Peru and because I speak Spanish. My first attempts to visit Peru were as a backpacker in the 1980s, but travel to Peru at that time was difficult and dangerous, so I postponed the trip. I felt that sponsoring a child in Peru would be a small contribution to helping Peru recover from its very difficult period, and on a more personal and selfish level, would give me further motivation to visit. It worked, at least on one level.

We first visited Peru in 2009, as part of a longer trip through a few countries in South America. A major focus of that trip was to do the Inca Trail, starting, of course, in Cusco, the Ancient Incan capital. It was luck that Saul, the boy we then sponsored, lived in the outskirts of Cusco, so visiting him was easy and didn’t throw out our (loose) plans at all. If he had lived much further north we may not have visited, but neither he, nor WV would have known that, so no one would have been disappointed.

Our next visit to Peru was in April and May of this year. Again, we gave WV quite short notice of our desire to meet the children we sponsor, but again they managed to organise both trips. The first was to Cristian, a young boy who lives on the outskirts of Lima with his parents, older sister and baby brother.

Out second visit came 5 weeks later in Huaraz, a small Andean city north east of Lima. Visiting Carmina gave us the opportunity to go to another area of the Andes that we would probably not have visited otherwise, where we got to see a small but bustling city, spectacular snow capped mountains and beautiful farming countryside with more fascinating ancient ruins. We also got to meet some lovely people, both locals from Huaraz and a different breed of travellers; mostly travellers of the mountain climbing variety.

Carmina 11, lives on the outskirts of Huaraz on a small farm with her two younger brothers and her father. On this trip we made our own way to Huaraz

Being able to visit a World Vision sponsored child and his / her community is a privilege and a pleasure, being able to visit two is double. Our visits were arranged through WV at very short notice, but were surprisingly well organised and appropriate.

One of the things that attracted me to WV for child sponsorship was their focus on improving the child’s community for the whole community. Naturally, when you sponsor a child, you have a particular interest in that child’s wellbeing, progress and future opportunities. I was pleased to see that WV clearly recognises that the sponsored children will best benefit overall from some basic improvements to their community. The improvements that I have personally witnessed include access to clean drinking water, facilities to improve general cleanliness and healthy cooking, and holistic education that goes well beyond the classroom.

World Vision visit in Huaraz

We requested visits to the two children we sponsor with some trepidation. In some ways we would rather be anonymous donors, giving the relatively small amounts each month so that the workers and communities can get on with the work they need to do without having to overtly demonstrate their gratitude to the foreign patrons who, through luck of birth and opportunity, have so much

A very sweet memory with a delighted señora Felicitas Celmi Mautino (2nd to the left) with her son, Carmina’s aunt, Carmina, and Belinda in the middle.

The two people on the right are members of the office staff of the World Vision team, Huaraz.

The picture to the right is taken in Señora Felicitas’ house with her new stove built by World Vision. Señora Felicitas cooked us a lunch of potatoes, egg and a beautiful green chilli sauce.

This special World Vision community project is called the Paria Wilcahuain Area Development Program.

Carmina and Belinda sitting in the farming community near where she lives on the

outskirts of Huaraz






Around HuarazPlaces of interest

around HuarazHere we present a guide to the villages around Huaraz in the Callejon de Huaylas and Conchucos. Most of them are easily accessible by microbus (colectivo). Ask your hostel owner or landlord where to catch the colectivos in Huaraz.

Callejon de Conchucos

The Callejon de Conchucos, which runs almost parallel to the Callejon de Huaylas to the east of the Cordillera Blanca, is less accessible and, therefore, less frequented by visitors, but it is equally beautiful. The Callejon de Conchucos is known mostly for the old Chavín de Huántar Ceremonial Complex. It offers a variety of off-the-beaten-path villages complemented by local festivals, typical music and customs. Take enough cash because most villages in the Callejon de Conchucos have no ATMs.

San Marcos (2960m)

San Marcos is located nine kilometres north of Chavín de Huántar, in the Mosna valley. Here you can expect basic tourist services as well as spectacular mountain-biking options. The Mosna Valley is also known as Magnolia Paradise because of the many flowers that enrich the area. At the nearby Antamina mine you could find fossilised remains of dinosaurs.

Huari (3150m)

The province capital is located 152km from Huaraz; about four hours by public transport. It is famous for its gastronomy and the María Jiray Waterfall. Seven kilometres from Huari is Lake Purhuay which also offers camping, trekking and mountain-biking facilities. Also worth visiting is the archaeological centre of Marca Jirca.

Chacas (3359m)

Less-known hikes to Huari or Yanama are accessible from this little village (Yanama is also the start of the Santa Cruz trek). Chacas offers tourists an excellent opportunity to experience the Andean lifestyle when visiting the main plaza. Flanked by the colourful windows and doors of the white painted houses; many with complex wooden balconies. There is a direct bus route to Huaraz with Transporte Renzo.

San Luis (3131m)

Capital city of the province of Carlos Fermín Fitzcarrald, it will take no less than six hours to reach this township from Cátac. Famous for the archaeological site of Cashajirca located three kilometres north of San Luis, and the beautiful Sanctuary of Pomallucay, this church offers its home to the image of Lord Justice Pomallucay.

Other villages in the Callejon de Conchucos worth considering visiting are Pomabamba, Piscobamba and Llamellín.

Callejon de Huaylas

The Callejon de Huaylas stretches for 150km in the Anca sh Region of Peru with the Santa River running along the valley floor. The Huaylas Valley is more crowded and most conventional tours run over paved roads.

Recuay (3422m)

If you have ever wondered how Huaraz looked before the earthquake of 1970, then visit Recuay. The structure of the narrow streets and adobe houses (houses built from sod) give a good impression. Just before arriving in Requay at the Bedoya Bridge, on the right hand side, starts the 183km road towards Olleros and Huaripampa, which is also the beginning of the Llama Trek towards Chavín de Huántar.

Carhuaz (2645m)

Famous for its local ice-cream and home to a lively Sunday market were countryside inhabitants sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as Manjar Blanco (blancmange).

Marcará (2950m)

This village mainly serves as a drive-through between Huaraz and Yungay. It is famous for its baños termales (hot springs) of Chancos. Weekdays are a lot quieter; at the weekends locals from the surrounding villages descend and the pools tend to become overcrowded. Expect the temperature of the pools to be around 70°C.

Jangas (2825m)

Here lies the parish of Don Bosco, an Italian Roman Catholic priest who in the 1800s established schools and carpentry and woodcarving workshops for orphans and street children. Jangas is a charming village not far from Tarica, and Anta airport.

Tarica (3600m)

This drive-through town is part of the conventional tour towards the Llanganuco Lakes and is best known for its many roadside shops selling handicrafts and potteries.

Yungay (2500m)

This is where tourists get the best views of the Huascarán, which is the highest mountain in Peru. Nowadays the old city of Yungay is a national cemetery because of the earthquake of 1970 that hit central Peru – killing 25,000 people in the city alone. The new town was rebuilt 1.5km north of the destroyed city. Yungay has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes, Laguna 69 and Yanama where you could start the Santa Cruz trek.

Caraz (2250m)

Caraz is 32km from Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca, and is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. Canyon del Pato – a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordillera Blanca – is also in this region.



Trujillo/Huanchaco

I have been passing this construction place for the past six months that I have been living here in Huanchaco. It is on Las Gardenias, around the corner one of the main roads of Huanchaco, and named Los Pinos. Sometimes I see him sneaking out some dogs, some days I see him hanging there with his friends. Other days, he is just hosing the salt water off his body after surfing. Many times, late at night, I have seen him sneak back in. It is a construction place. Nothing there during the night other than a house under construction, bricks and emptiness. During the day you could catch him sometimes helping out with the construction. Together with the other workers, he is lifting bricks, cementing walls or just cleaning up. Who is this kid? He looks pretty young. What is he doing there all the time? Does he sleep there? How? There is nothing there.

I think he smel my curiosity. He came up to me from nowhere one day and spoke to me in his broken put pretty good English. He thanked me for distributing the Huaraz Telegraph to Saksay because then he could read it and practice his English, he told me his life story and I couldn’t stop listening. I asked him if we could meet up another time and talk more because we were out at a bar and I could barely hear him. Pressing my ears against him trying to hear a: YES! Why not, I can tell you my story!

Who is Walter?

He struggled to answer the question; he almost shied off answering the question.

Well, I love to work. I came to Huanchaco from Chiclayo for the opportunities. It all began one day at the restaurant My Friend. I am a family boy; since I’ve been a little boy, I have been working. I helped women carry their heavy shopping bags at the market or just deliver some grocery to families around. Anything that could give a couple of bucks, I did it. We are three siblings; I’m the oldest. In my head I persuaded myself that it was my duty to help my family, which is why I worked. No one asked me or told me to. I love animals, just like my mum, we lived on a farm and have always had animals around.

I ended up in Huanchaco when I helped my uncle to sell his vegetables; one of the places that frequently bought veggies from him was My Friends. I was 15 years old when I moved to Huanchaco and started working at My Friends. So I stopped school to work and support my family. I am 21 years old today. One of my younger brothers is working at a hostel here in Huanchaco.

My mum is still in Chiclayo, I am who I am because of my mum. She is an amazing woman. She just recently had her appendix removed and is still recuperating from that operation. That is also why I’m living the way I am, under “construction”. I need to help her economically. The construction and surfing kill me, so at night I sleep heavy and don’t mind how or where I sleep. I’m happy with the little things in life. If it rains, it is difficult to be at the construction but it is fun as well, I like it.

You just have to be positive and flexible.

How does a day in your life look?

So I would normally go to sleep at 10 pm if my friends are not visiting and trying to get me out of the construction. They are probably worried about me and think I feel bad if they don’t visit. Sometimes I wake up at 6 am, I try to do some yoga in the morning to get the energy from my stomach up to my head. I then take my dogs with me, Risa and Briso; we watch the waves. If the series look good, I want to join in. With two bananas, I’m then ready to jump into the water and catch some waves. At the moment – since we are not building anything – I am just guarding which gives me plenty of time to ride the waves. So I have a light lunch and then head back to the water. When I come back from the water, it’s time for ‘five phrases of the day in English’, that is how I learned English, you know! On days like this, since I am just guarding the place, I get to surf three times.

What do you work with?

I have done tons of things. At night I sometimes work at Inca Surf, helping out with the barbecue, I give surf classes at My friends, sell surf trips for them sometimes; I also guard this construction place and when need I also help out with the building as well.

So where do you live?

At the construction site! It pays me money and helps me save.

Isn’t it difficult without shower and toilets and other things?

I have angels everywhere here. I mean everyone in Huanchaco has been giving me an extra hand. Thalia from Saksay and all the people around in that neighborhood have been more than helpful. They all help out with showers and toilets and water in general. I feel it’s my home, I have seen it grow from nothing. I feel good here and I am just

Living under construction, building a future

Walter (r) and a tourist on their way for a surf class


a block away from the beach. My mum wants me back home of course, but I am comfortable here.

What is surf for you?

I was 17 when I started surfing. I taught myself how to surf, the hard way, just threw myself in and learned it after a while. I gained respect in the waters and on the waves with time, since I am not from here and I wasn’t good: it was difficult. People around helped me with boards and equipment. I am so thankful for all the help I have ever received.

Surf is love. It is incredible. I can’t let it go. In my dreams, I see what I want to do on the waves the next day. The waves are like being in the hands of God. I have been close to death three times. The worst was when I saw some cool, right, big waves, series after series. I went in. The first one went well. The second was huge, it was my first tie in a big wave. Never seen big waves like that before. The next thing I just remember trying to catch my breath and heard my friend scream: Just relax! RELAX! I couldn’t get air. I lost the board. I finally did get some air but had to get help from my friend out of the water.

It s important to learn how to swim before anything, when it comes to surfing. I have taught myself how to calculate the waves and now manage them.

Do you have a dream?

Of course! I dream of tranquility. A home where I can be safe. That doesn’t have a price! For me that is it! I want to be like Felipe Pomar, Peru’s first surf champion, and eventually cruise the world’s best waves. In the middle of our lunch interview, he got called out for work by Randal from My Friend. It was freezing cold and he had to go out for a surf class and we had to cut our interview short. He is an interesting kid with a great future ahead of him. I believe in him!

R. Amad Al Sadi

This is where, according to the author of the article, Walter sleeps at nightThe Huaraz Telegraph



Trujillo/Huanchaco

Le phénomène du Brichero / Brichéra. A French article about bricheros. Picture from

http://itineraireduboutdumonde.blogspot.com/2012/07/le-bricheroa.html


The Huaraz TelegraphIn the Peruvian city of Cuzco, some inhabitants make a living of seducing young female

tourists. On youtube, this video is called: Tempting tourists in Cuzco

Ÿou can take the brichero out of the ghetto but you can’t take ghetto out of the brichero¨

As this is my last contribution of the year in the Huaraz Telegraph, I thought to myself why not touch on a more delicate topic (one which the editor of this paper touched on last year). I am going to share my thoughts about a phenomenon which is known by different names. The practice exists all over the world. Some might use the English term gigolo but a gigolo sounds like a bit cheap and cold and they usually charge money for their services. In some countries they are called charmers but that is not quite accurate either, as they are not very charming. The well trained eye is able to recognise that all the charm is just an act. It is in fact all very pathetic. Let me give you an example. In Gambia, older British women, travel to find, what I would call a toy boy. They call it romance. You can often hear these women say Ï know I am old enough to be his mom but we fell in love¨. I would call it a Gambian Gamble.

Brichero is the word we are talking about and there is of course a female version, the brichera. Just like any other word that has a sexual counterpart, the female version would be looked upon with a little bit more negativity, almost like an escort of some sort and the man who uses their services would become something of a hero amongst his mates. Since I am a woman and see them in Huanchaco a lot, I am going to focus on the local womanisers , who prey on foreigners; the bricheros.

Now I believe that Peruvian men are very suave, just like any other Latino men in South America (I blogged about this item a long time ago when I just got to Peru). It is funny that they all flirt with their eyes. All ages, from 3 upwards, and they are all so sure of themselves and just know that they could get you if they want to. On my way to Trujillo, on the plane from Lima, an older man, 50+, flirted with me and told me: I can give you five kids now if that is all you want. I can make you my wife. I found it charming and cute but not really

an option! He was not the typical brichero but a genuine and charming Latino lover. A brichero is not that suave though. Often hitting on you with very cheeky one-liners like: Djour ayes is bootiful laike di sun (In English this could be understood as: your eyes are beautiful like the sun).

It might be useful at this point to arrive at a proper definition of the word brichero: it is Peruvian slang for a person who has an alternative motive to the one he displays to you. This person often talks the talk but can’t walk the walk. Here is a little summary of the types I have seen so far in Huanchaco:

- The alleged Shaman (Healing your bad energies and making you one with pachamama) not to be confused with the serious shaman, who is really doing a great job living the spiritual life whilst milking the tourists out of their money)

- The champion surfer dude (everyone in Huanchaco is a champion). But this dude claims he is the real champion! Unless surfing has just become a very easy sport where everyone who fits into a wet-suit and carries a surfboard is a champion then take this claim with a pinch of salt)

- The self-styled owner of a shop or hostel.

- The guitar carrier. Because let’s face it, if they were any good they would be doing much better than just serenading you outside your window or on the beach. The same applies to the surf board carrier.

There is actually a brichero, an older man in his 40’s with a broken board, who is famous for walking on the beach of Huanchaco. You will often see him strolling on the beach in front of the burger place El Generoso. He looks for a blond beach babe, asks the girl to watch his things and runs into the water to surf. When he first approached the girl, he was careful to hide the broken part of his board so she wouldn’t notice it and then he paddles into the biggest wave.

It looks like he is trying to catch a wave and then is washed out of the water, making it seem like the waves broke his surfboard. I love watching him and seeing how successful his routine is. Most of the time it works out fine and you´ll see handshakes and kisses and sometimes he even gets a friendly conversation started.

Here is another trick used by the bricheros. They make it seem like it is you who is following them .This is

same as cheap men all over the world. I am sorry to have to tell you this but you can take the brichero out of the ghetto but you can’t take ghetto out of the brichero.

The newest trend in Huanchaco is to restrict access to places where there are foreign girls in the hopes of keeping the gringas for the bricheros. A couple of weeks ago, the son of Mayor Fernando Bazan and some of his friends were out celebrating one of my volunteer’s birthday. One girl in the group knew Simon Moreno and he had invited the girls over for a party at his Chimu Bazar hostel that same night. The girls of course invited their friends to join them. Mr. Moreno had a different plan. He told the gringas: Ÿou can come in but I don’t know those boys and can’t let them in.¨

Unaware that he was refusing entry to the mayor´s son and his well-known friends, he stuck to his story Ï am not letting them in because I don’t know them¨. There was no violence because the boys turned around and left. The funny part is that because the boys were denied access, the girls all left too. I am sure Mr. Moreno is now surely on the hunt for a new gringa.

So if you are looking for that quick romance, a guy who is planning to leach on you and empty your purse, look for a cheesy, smooth operator. He will give you the standard Amor, te amo talk and as soon as you have your back turned he will be on to his next victim. Caution readers! A genuine person and a brichero are not the same. I don’t want

because theoretically you might want to be seen with a champion surfer (which he is not). He might even be smooth enough to spend a dime or two on you on your first date. After a couple of dates, you are hooked and you are what I would call a ¨bricheradid¨. In other words; conned by a brichero. You were looking for that hot, exotic, travel romance and you got him; the king of bullshit.

Another good example would be how some of them might actually end up opening a bar or a hostel in the hope of meeting a hot extranjera (foreigner) and luring her into his love nest. Too often this type will say: Ï am better than the other Peruvians, I am not the same, I am different.¨ Deep down inside, he is no better than any other badass, exactly the

to insult any of you, great men out there! A genuine man is not looking to leach on women. A brichero wants to gain something from you, which could be drinks, sex, money, marriage, or simply a way of getting out of the country.

Now don’t get me wrong again, I am sure you can find love in Huanchaco; there are many gentlemen and genuine women here. Just keep your eyes and ears open. If it sounds too good to be true, it most probably is. As I like to say: Ïf it walks like a duck, talks like a duck it most probably is a duck (read: If he walks like a brichero and talks like a brichero, he most probably is a brichero).¨

Saludos from a never to be “Bricheradid”

Coco

The Huaraz TelegraphAnother documentary on youtube warns tourists for bricheros



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