Copyright©2011byBrettBara

Publishedin2011byPotterCraft,

animprintoftheCrownPublishingGroup,

adivisionofRandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork

www.crownpublishing.com

www.pottercraft.com

POTTERCRAFTandcolophonisa

registeredtrademarkofRandomHouse,Inc.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData

Bara,Brett.

Sewinginastraightline:quickandcraftyprojectsyoucanmakebysimplysewingstraight/BrettBara.

p.cm.

eISBN:978-0-307-58682-7

tt1.Sewing.2.Handicraft.I.Title.

TT705.B2252011

646.4--dc22

Allrightsreserved.

Thisbookcontainsgeneralinstructionsandtechniquesonsewingclothing,homedecor,andcraftdesigns.Whenworkingwiththetoolsand

suppliespresentedinthisbook,readersarestronglycautionedtousepropercareandjudgment,tofollowtheapplicablemanufacturer’s

directions,andtoseekpromptmedicalattentionincaseofaninjury.Inaddition,readersareadvisedtokeepallpotentiallyharmfulmaterials

awayfromchildren.Theauthorandthepublisherexpresslydisclaimanyliability,loss,orrisk,personalorotherwise,whichisincurredasa

consequence,directlyorindirectly,oftheuseandapplicationofanyofthecontentsofthisbook.

CoverandinteriordesignbyLaTriciaWatford

CoverandinteriorphotographybyAlexandraGrablewski

IllustrationsbyJaneFay

v3.1

Dedication

formymom.

Shetaughtmetosew,sharedwithmealoveofallthingshandmade,andevenhelpedmestitchmanyoftheprojectsforthisbook.Icouldneveraskforamorewonderfulmother.

Acknowledgments

Writingabookhasbeenagoalofmineforaverylongtime,andI’msoproudandhappythatthisdreamisfinallyareality.I’mbeyondthankfultothemanypeoplewhohelpedthisbookcometogether.

First,ImustthankthewonderfulcrewatPotterCraftwhomadethisvisioncometolife—BettyWongforsupportingmeandhelpingshapemyideas,EricaSmithformakingtheintroductions,ChiLingMoyforlendinghertop-notchaestheticstothephotography,MarthaMoranforherpatientandthoughtfulediting,andLaTriciaWatfordforhercharmingdesign.

BigthankstoAlexandraGrablewskiforhergorgeousphotographsandKristenPetliskiforherexcellentstyling(asalways).AnotherbigthanksgoestoJordanProvostandJennaPark(andtheirfamilies)forwelcomingourphotocrewintotheirbeautifulhomes,andtoGraceBonneyforintroducingus.

Ittookateamofpeopletoproducethisbook’sprojectsandwhiptheirpatternsintoshape.I’msupergratefultoNikkiSmithforherawesomegarmentsewingskillsandexpertadvice,CarolSelepekforherquilting,andmymomArleneBarafornevercomplainingthatIgaveheralltheboringpartstosew(whoelsecouldbindaquiltinthemiddleofthenightwithasmileonherface?).IalsowanttothankDonBara(orDad,asIliketocallhim)forhismeasuring,packing,shipping,andencouraging.I’mverythankfulforKevinKosbab’scarefultechnicalediting,andJaneFay’scommitmenttoexcellencewithherillustrations.

Writingthisbookhastrulymademeappreciateallthewonderfulpeopleinmylife.Therearen’tenoughFrenchdinnersintheworldtothankDarrenFriedforbeinganamazingfriend(andalsoarockstarlawyer).IsoappreciateErinSlonakerforsharingherexperience,listeningtomevent,andholdingdownthecrochetfortwhileIhunkereddownandsewed.I’mgratefultoLanieKaganforherkindnessandencouragement.AndItipmyhattoMarty,Jodie,Dan,Sara,Candi,andLisafortheirfriendshipandsupportalongtheway.

FinallyI’dliketothankmyfamilyandespeciallymyparentsforallthecraftylovewhileIwasworkingonthisbook,andalways.

contents

IntroductionStraighttothePoint:WhySewingIsn’tAsHardAsYouThink

GettingStarted:HowtoSewaStraightLineBasicSewingToolsandSuppliesSewingaStraightLine:ByHandSewingaStraightLine:ByMachineBasicSewingTechniquesFabricBasics

straight-upchicfashionTheOne-HourSkirtQuiltyZigsandZagsShirredtotheMaxEasy,BreezyBlouseCityGirlToteFirstTime’saCharmCardiHeavyMetalBagThe60-SecondBeltSewingSchoolSkirtOrigamiDress

cozy,craftyhomeCustomizedCurtains,TwoWaysWorld’sEasiestZipperedThrowPillow15-MinuteShamsMake-It-Your-WayOttomanCoverDIYDuvetCoverClutter-BustingBucketTotePixelatedThrowWonkyDiamondsOnPoint

quick,cutegiftsFoldedFlowerBowlsStaggeringStripsBabyQuilt60-SecondHello9-to-5FolderTheMagicSewingKitOn-the-GoJewelryKeeperDenimDopBagMisterBunnyandMissKitty

FabricResourcesIndex

straighttothepoint:

WhySewingIsn’tAsHardAsYouThinkAsacraftyladylivinginNewYorkCity,Ifindsewingopportunitieseverywhere.JustabouteverytimeIwalkintoatrendyboutique,Iseesomethingchicandpriceyandthink,that’sgorgeous—andIcouldtotallymakethatmyself.Inspirationforcuteandstylishcreationstosewisallaround—andbelieveitornot,muchofitcanbemadewiththemostbasicskills.Ifyouthinksewingyourownclothes,homedecor,andgiftsistoohard,I’vegotnewsforyou!It’snot,andthisbookwillshowyouwhy.

TheexplodingpopularityofDIYcultureandshowslikeProjectRunwayhavepiquedthepublic’sinterestincrafting,especiallyinsewing.Imeetsomanypeoplewhotellmetheywouldlovetobeabletosew.Whenwritingthisbook,Ifrequentlyheardthesamecomment:“I’mdyingtolearntosew,butIhavenoideawheretobegin.”IalwaysfeelalittlesadwhenIhearthis—whileit’sgreatthatfolksouttherewanttolearn,it’sashametheydon’trealizehoweasyitistogetstarted.

IknowI’mluckythatIgrewupinacraftyhouse,withamotherwhocouldsewanythingandadadwhocouldbuildanything.“Makingitourselves”wassecondnaturetoourfamily,soitneveroccurredtometobeintimidatedbysewingmachines,fabric,scissors,andpatterns.Ilearnedfromanearlyagethatsewingisn’tdifficultatall.

Forme,customhomedecor,fabulousfashionaccessories,funkyquilts,andpersonalizedgiftshavealwaysbeenascloseasmyfabricstashandmysewingmachine.AndthoughI’vebeenstitchingupchallengingconstructionsforyears,thevastmajorityofwhatIsewactuallyusesonlythemostbasicskills.Why?Becausemanyprojectssimplydon’trequireanythingmore.Infact,theinspirationforthisbookwastherealizationthatmostofwhatIsewismadewithnothingbutsimplestraightseams.

Andanybodycansewastraightseam—Ipromiseyouthat.That’swhyIwanteveryoneouttheretoknowhowsimplesewingcanbe.Sure,youcangetallcomplicatedwithhautecouturegownsortailor-madesuits,butthat’snotallsewingis.Youreallydon’tneedfancytechniquestostitchawesomethings.Ifyoucansewastraightseam,youcanmakeaworldofprojects,andthisbookwilltakeyoustep-by-stepthrougheverythingyou’llneedtoknowtogetthejobdone.Fromthebasicsofsewing(byhandorbymachine)toallthehelpfultipsandtricksyou’llneedtomakeeverythingfromcurtains,pillows,andquiltstoclothes,bags,andtoys—it’salljustafeweasystitchesaway!

Sograbyourneedle,breakoutyourscissors,fireupyoursewingmachine,anddon’tbeafraid

—remember,it’sonlyfabricandthread,andtheworstthatwillhappenisthatyou’lltearoutyourstitchesandsewanotherseam.

Withsomesnazzytextiles,aspareafternoon,atadofcreativity,andthisbook,you’llsoonbejazzingupyourlifewithseriouslycutecreations.Beforelong,you’llbeseeinginspirationeverywhereandthinking,Icantotallymakethatmyself.

BrettBara

gettingstarted

HOWTOSEWASTRAIGHTLINEWhenyouthinkofitthatway—sewingastraightline—itseemssosimple,right?Well,itreallyisthateasy!Onceyouunderstandthebasicsofsewingastraightseam,thestitchingworldisyouroyster.Itdoesn’ttakelongtolearn,solet’sgooverafewbasicsandthenyou’llbereadytotackletheprojectsinthisbook.

We’llbeginwithputtingtogetherthetoolsandsuppliesyou’llneedandsettingupasewingspace.(Itdoesn’ttakemuch,Ipromise!)I’llthentakeyoustep-by-stepthroughthebasicsofsewingastraightline,byhandandmachine,anddescribeafewessentialtechniquesyou’llneedforthedesignsinthisbook.

Ifyou’reabeginningsewer,Isuggestyoureadthroughthischapterbeforestartingontheprojects.Onceyoustartsewing,youmayfindyourselfflippingbacktothesepagesforareminderorrefresherasyouwork.

SOWHATAREWEWAITINGFOR?let’sgetstarted!

basicsewingtoolsandsupplies

Overtheyears,I’vefoundthatoneofthemostimportantthingsIcandotoimprovemysewingproductivityandqualityistohavetherighttools,andtokeepthemorganizedandhandysothey’llbereadytogowheneverthesewingmusestrikes.

Youdon’tneedalotoftoolstosew—sinceIliveinNewYorkCity,wherespaceisataminimum,Isaynotomostgadgetsandtrytosticktothebasics.Here’smyminimalist’slistofthesuppliesyou’llneedtomaketheprojectsinthisbook.

ALL-PURPOSETHREAD:You’llneedthreadlabeledall-purpose,whichcomesincotton,polyester,orablendofboth.Chooseacolorthatmatchesyourfabric.(Itdoesn’tneedtobeanexactmatch,justclose.)Whenindoubt,chooseashadedarker,ratherthanlighter,thanthefabric.

STRAIGHTPINS:Keepastashofstraightpinshandytopinfabricsinplacebeforesewingseams.

HAND-SEWINGNEEDLES:Evenifyoudoallofyoursewingonthemachine,alittlehand-sewingisnecessarynowandthenforfinishingordetailwork.Lookforneedlescalledsharps;theycomeinvarioussizesfordifferentfabricweights.Stockyoursewingkitwithavarietypacksoyou’llbereadyforanyoccasion.

PENNYWISE

Assembling basic sewing tools doesn’t have to break the bank. Ask relatives andfriends for loaners to get you started, and check thrift stores and fleamarkets foraffordablesupplies.Remember thatmanycraft-storechains frequentlyoffer fifty-percent-offcoupons.

Signupfortheirmailingliststoreceivethecouponsregularly,andlargerpurchaseswillbemoremanageable!

SAFETYPINS:Safetypinsinavarietyofsizescomeinhandyfortaskssuchasthreadingelasticthroughawaistbandcasingorholdingquiltlayerstogether.

FABRIC-MARKINGTOOLS:Sometimesyouneedtomarkyourfabrictoknowwheretosewitlater.Markwithanonpermanenttool,suchasfabric-markingpencils,disappearinginkpens,water-solublepens,ortailor’schalk.Inapinchyoucanusearegularpencil,justbecarefultomarkinsideaseamallowanceorotherspotwhereitwon’tshow.

MEASURINGTAPES:Ikeeptwotypesonhand.Oneisthetraditionaltailor’stape(alsoknownasameasuringtape),whichisflexibleclothorplastic,perfectformeasuringaroundthebody;Iuseitforalmostallmysewingneeds.Theotherisacarpenter’sretractablemetaltape(akatapemeasure);itcomesinhandyformeasuringsomethingparticularlylongand

flat,suchascurtainsoraquilt.(Toprotectyourfabricfromstainsanddirt,don’tusethesamemetaltapeforsewingandhomerepairs.)

SCISSORS:Good,sharpscissorsareindispensable.Purchaseadecentpair,andreservethemonlyforfabric—neverusethemtocutpaperoranythingelse,whichwilldulltheblades.

ROTARYCUTTER,CUTTINGMAT,ANDQUILTER’SRULER:Theseitemsareoptional,butveryuseful.Iprefertodomostofmycuttingwitharotarycutter;it’squickerandmoreprecisethanscissors,especiallywhencuttingstraightlines.

SEAMRIPPER:Mistakeshappen,andwhentheydo,aseamripperwillhelpremoveunwantedstitcheseasilyandwithoutdamagingyourfabric.Thisinexpensivetoolisalsousefulforremovingbastingstitchesoropeningbuttonholes.Likeanyblade,aseamrippercangetdull,soreplaceyoursoften.

POINTERANDCREASERTOOL:Keepapointyobjectinyoursewingkitforpokingoutcornersafterturningthemrightsideout.Aknittingneedleorchopstickwillwork,butIpreferusingthistool.Itspointissmallenoughtogetintolittlecornersbutisslightlybluntedsoyouwon’triskpokingthroughthefabric.

SEWINGMACHINE:You’llonlyneedthemostbasicofmachinestomaketheprojectsinthisbook,butsewingmachinesareavailableinahugearrayofhigh-andlow-techchoices.Tryoutvariousmachinesinstorestoseewhatyoulike.Besuretoreadyourmachine’smanualtolearnhowtoproperlymaintainit;ifyoukeepitcleanedandoiled,evenabasicmachineshouldlastforyears.Formoreinformation,seesewingastraightline:bymachine.

MACHINENEEDLES:I’membarrassedtoadmitthatformanyyearsIdidn’tappreciatetheimportanceofchangingmysewingmachineneedles.NowI’menlightened,andIchangeneedlesfrequentlytomatchtheweightofthefabricI’msewing.(Getyourselfanassortmentofsizes;thepackagewilltellyouwhichneedlesworkbestwithwhichfabrics.)Replaceoldneedleswithsharpnewonesoften.

IRON:Believeitornot,anironisoneofthemostimportanttoolsinsewing.Infact,itmightbethemostimportanttool.Itdoesn’tmatterhownicelyyoumeasure,cut,orsewyourseams—ifthey’renotpressedflat,they’lllookshoddy.Getagoodironandpresseveryseamthoroughly,usingsteam.(Ievenrecommendironingtopstitching,asithelpstorelaxthethreadandfabricforamorefinishedlook.)

SPRAYBOTTLEANDPRESSCLOTH:Ikeepaspraybottleofwateratmyironingstationalongwithapresscloth,whichisjustascrapofmuslinfabric.Spritzingfabricbeforepressinghelpsachievesmootherresults,especiallyforfabricsthatdon’twanttoobeytheiron.Placingapressclothoverthefabricyou’reironinghelpstoprotectitfromscorchingortakingonsheenfromtheiron.

CLAPPER:Aclapperisablockofhardwoodusedtoflattenfabricwhenpressing,especiallyfabricsthateasilyburnormelt.Pressthefabricwithanironforafewseconds,removetheironandfirmlypresstheclapperonthesamespot.Idon’tactuallyownaclapper,butIneededonefortheHeavyMetalBag,sincethevinylwouldhavemeltedundernormalpressing.Iimprovisedwithahardcoverbookanditworkedjustaswell!

SEWINGSPACE:Sewingrequiresaplacetospreadoutandwork.Ifyou’reluckyenoughtohaveaspaceyoucansetupasadedicatedsewingarea,you’reinbusiness.Furnishitwithalarge,sturdy,stablesurface(suchasadeskoranolddiningtable)forcuttingfabricsandsettingupyourmachine,aswellassomedrawersandshelvesforsupplies.

Ifyoudon’thaveadedicatedspace,don’tdespair!(Afterall,Idon’thaveone,andIwroteawholesewingbook!)Allyouneedisagoodtablethatyoucantakeoveronceinawhile,andalittlebitoforganization.Keepyourtoolsandsuppliesneatlyarrangedinaplasticbin,

whichyoucaneasilymovefromroomtoroom.Storeyourtoolsandsewingmachineinanaccessiblespot.

sewingastraightline:byhand

Ifyou’reitchingtodiveintothewonderfulworldoffabric,creativity,andDIYflair,youdon’tneedasewingmachinetogetstarted.Sewbyhand!Itmaybeslowgoing,buthand-sewingcanbewonderfullymeditativeandrelaxing.Nearlyeveryprojectinthisbookcanbemadebyhand,andallyouneedisahand-sewingneedle,all-purposethread,andsharpscissors.Here’sthelow-downonthebasicsyou’llneedtoknow.

THREADINGTHENEEDLE:Cutathreadlengthabout40"(100cm)longandthreadoneendthroughtheeyeoftheneedle.Tosewwithasinglethread,knotoneend.Tosewwithtwostrands,knotbothendstogether.(FIGURE1)

basichandstitches

Mostseamsaresewnwithfabricplacedrightsidestogetherandrawedgesaligned.Pinbeforesewingsothefabricdoesn’tshift.Tobeginastitch,inserttheneedlefromthebackofthefabricuptothefront.

THEBACKSTITCHcreatesastrongseamwhichisthebestchoiceforbasichandsewing.Tomakeeachstitch,inserttheneedleintotheprecedingstitch,thenbringtheneedleupwherethenextstitchwillbeplaced.

THERUNNINGSTITCH(straightstitch)isabasicstitchwhichislessstablethanthebackstitch.Simplyweavetheneedleinandoutthroughbothlayersoffabricforthelengthoftheseam.

THEHAND-BASTINGSTITCHisalong(approximately½"[13mm])runningstitch,usedtosecurefabriclayersbeforesewingthepermanentseam.

THEWHIPSTITCHisaloop-shapedstitchthatcanbeusedtojointwofabricedgestogetherortosewahem.Inserttheneedlefromthebacktothefrontabout¼"(6mm)fromthefabricedges,theninserttheneedlefromfronttobacksothethreadwrapsaroundtheedges.

tip

Troublethreadingtheneedle?Simplysnipthethreadwithsharpscissors,moistenitwithwet fingers,andthread it throughtheeyeof theneedle. If thatdoesn’twork,moisten(okay,lick!)theeyeoftheneedleitself.Itsoundscrazy,butawetneedleeyehelpswickthethreadthrough.

sewingastraightline:bymachine

Herecomesthemillion-dollarquestion:Whatkindofsewingmachinedoyouneed?Well,I’mabigfanofnonfancymodels.Thesedayssewingmachinescanbereallycomplicated,butIhighlyrecommendthatbeginnersstartwithinexpensiveormid-rangemachines.

Beforeyoubuy,considerborrowing.Therearesewingmachineslyingneglectedinclosets

everywhere—askaroundandyoumayfindaloaneryoucanenjoyuntilyou’rereadytobuy.Ifindoubtaboutaborrowedmachine,takeittoasewingmachinerepairshopforatune-uporassessment.

Ifborrowingisn’tanoption,checkyourlocallistingsforsewingmachineshopsthatrentmodels.Insomecitiestherearebusinessesthatallowyoutorentasewingstationorevencuttingspacebythehour—thesecanbereallyfunspotsformeetingfellowsewers,learningnewskills,andgettingtonsofinspiration.

Finally,ifyoudobuy,knowthatsewingmachinedealersaresetuptoletyouexperimentwithmachinesbeforepurchasing.Don’tbeshyabouttestingoutthevariousmodelsuntilyoufindjusttherightoneforyou.

gettingstartedonamachine

Sewingastraightlineiswithoutdoubttheeasiestthingyoucandowithyoursewingmachine.Becauseallmodelsaredifferent,youwillhavetogettoknowyourownmachinetounderstandhowtooperateit.It’scriticaltoreadthemanual;itwillreallyhelpyoutounderstandyourmachine’sfunctionsandgetthemostoutofit.

Ifyoudon’tknowyourwayaroundasewingmachine,Iencourageyoutotakeaclassatalocalsewingshop,oraskafriendorrelativeforlessons.Itreallyonlytakesafewhourstolearnthebasics,andthenyou’llbeonyourway!

basicmachinestitches

Herearethebasicstraightsewingstitches.Practicethesestitcheswithvariousstitchlengthsonscrapfabricstogetthehangofeachone.

THESTRAIGHTSTITCH,alineofstraightstitches,isthemostbasicmachinestitch—theoneyouwillusewheneverapatternsimplytellsyoutosew.Checkyourmachine’smanualforthestitch-lengthsettingyoushoulduseforgeneralsewing.

BACKSTITCHatthebeginningandendoftheseamtopreventitfromunraveling.Sewacouplestitchesforwardthenpressthebackstitchbutton(orlever)tomakethemachinetogo

inreverse.Sewacouplestitchesinreverse,releasethebutton,andcontinuesewingnormally.Thisisthemachineequivalentoftyingaknot.

TOPSTITCHisjustafancynameforabasicstraightstitchthatisvisibleontherightsideofyourwork,usuallyadecorativeelementnearafinishededge.

ABASTINGSTITCHtemporarilyholdsfabrictogetherattheseamlineuntilthepermanentseamissewn.Useyourlongestmachinestitchlength.Donotbackstitchatthebeginningorendsoyoucaneasilyremovethebastingstitches.

AZIGZAGSTITCHisjustwhatitsoundslike,az-shapedstitchthatzigsandzags.Mostsewingmachineshaveazigzagsetting,andyoucanusuallyadjustthewidthandlengthofthestitches.Zigzagsaremostfrequentlyusedtofinisharawedgeorasadecorativestitch.

basicsewingtechniques

Learnthesebasicsewingtechniquesandyou’llbeabletomakeeveryprojectinthisbook.Ifsomethingisnewtoyou,practicefirstonscrapfabricanddon’tgetfrustratedifyoudon’tgetitrightthefirsttime.That’swhyseamripperswereinvented.

frenchseam

AFrenchseamisatwo-stepseamthatisfullyfinishedonboththeinsideandtheoutsideofyourwork,sonorawedgesarevisible.Itmaysoundintimidating,butit’sreallynomoredifficultthanaregularseam,andyou’lllovetheprofessional-lookingresults.Notethata¼"(6mm)Frenchseamreferstothewidthofthefinishedseam;theactualseamallowanceis½"(13mm).Tosewa¼"(6mm)Frenchseam:

1.Pin2piecesoffabricwiththeirwrongsidestogetherandrawedgesaligned.(Thiswillfeelwrong,sincenormallyseamsaresewnwithrightsidestogether,buttrustme!)Stitchtheseamwitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.Trimseamallowanceto⅛"(3mm).(FIGURE1)

2.Presstheseamallowancetooneside,thenfoldthefabricalongtheseamlinesotherightsidesofthefabricaretogether.Presstheseamonthefold;pin.(FIGURE2)

3.Sewanotherseamwitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance,enclosingtherawedgeofthefirstseam(Step2)insidethisnewseam,leavingafinished,encasedseamonthewrongside.(FIGURE3)

4.Presstheseamallowancetooneside,andyourbeautifulFrenchseamisdone!(FIGURE4)

trimmingcorners

Whenyousewsomethingthathasacorner(whichwillthenbeturnedrightsideout),youwillbeinstructedtotrimtheseamallowancefromthecorner.Todothis,simplycutoffthecornerseamallowanceata45-degreeangle,beingcarefulnottocuttooclosetothestitching.Inverytightsituationsorwhenusingheavyfabric,youcanalsotrimsomeoftheseamallowancebeyondthecorner.Byremovingthebulkoftheexcessfabric,youwillgetasharperturned-outcorner.

stitchintheditch

Attimes,patternswillinstructyouto“stitchintheditch”.Thismeansyou’llsewdirectlyoveranexistingseamtoanchorsomethingbeneaththeseam,suchastheelasticinawaistband.Simplyloweryoursewingmachineneedleintotheexistingseam,andsewalonginthe“ditch”overthepreviousstitching.

fusinginterfacing

Togiveafabricmorebodyandstrengthinplaceswhereit’sneeded(suchasstrapsandbuttonholes),youcanaddfusibleinterfacingtothewrongsideofthefabric.

Cuttheinterfacingtothedimensionsspecifiedinthepattern.Placethefabricwrongsideuponyourironingboardandplacetheinterfacingadhesivesidedownonthefabric.Withyourironsettohigh,presstheinterfacingonespotatatime,holdingtheironinplacefor5–10secondsbeforemovingtothenextarea.Checktoseeiftheadhesivehasbonded;ifithasn’t,presseachsectionagainusingadamppresscloth.

makingastrap

Thistypeofstrapisusedinseveralprojectsinthisbook.Here’showtomakeit.

1.Cutastripoffabric(onthelengthwisegrain)thatis4timeswiderthanyouwantyourstraptobe.(FIGURE1)

2.Foldthestripinhalflengthwise(wrongsidestogether)andpressit.(FIGURE2)

3.Openthestripwiththewrongsidefacingup,andfoldthe2longedgesintomeetatthecenter(folded)line.(FIGURE3)Pressinplace.

4.Foldtheentirestripinhalfontheoriginalfoldlinesotherawedgesareinside,andpressagain.(FIGURE4)

5.Topstitchalongbothlongedgesofthestrap,stitchingclosetothefolds.(FIGURE5)

bastingaquilt

Toprepareforquilting,you’llassembleallthelayersofaquilt(top,batting,andback)andsecurethemtogethersotheydon’tshiftduringthequiltingprocess.Somequiltersusesafetypins,butIfinditworksbesttohand-bastethelayerstogetherwithneedleandthread—don’tworry,itdoesn’ttakeaslongasyouthink.

Threadahand-sewingneedleandmakeverylongstitches(approximately2"[5cm])acrossthequilt.Placethenextlineofstitchesabout6"(15cm)fromthefirst,andcontinuesewinglinesofstitchesinagridpatternuntiltheentirequiltisbasted.

quiltingaquilt

Onceyou’vebastedyourquilt,youwillquiltthelayerstogethertofirmlysecurethemfordurabilitywhilegivingyourpiecethedistinctivelookthatmakesaquilt,well,quilty.Toquiltbyhand,simplysewbasicrunningstitchesacrosstheentirequilt,spacingthelinesofquiltingnomorethan6"(15cm)apart.Youcanalsoquiltonyoursewingmachine,whichismypreferredmethod.Checkyoursewingmachinemanualforinstructionsonhowtoadjustyourmachineforquiltingorsewingthickfabrics,andpracticeafewlinesofquiltingonasmallswatchofyourfabricsandbattinglayeredtogether,adjustingthestitchlengthtobesureyouarehappywiththeresult.Ifyouhaveaverylargepiecetoquilt,considerusingaquiltingservicetodothejob(yourfabricstorecanprobablysuggestalocalservice).

bindingaquilt

Allthat’slefttodoafteraquilthasbeenquiltedistofinishtherawedgesaroundtheperimeter.Todothis,aspecialstripoffoldedfabric,calledquiltbinding,isstitchedtotheedges.Here’showtomakeandattach½"(13mm)quiltbinding.

makingquiltbinding

1.Cut3"-(7.5cm-)widestripsoffabricaslongastheperimeterofyourquilt,plusabout12"(30.5cm)extraforseamallowances.Youwilllikelyhavetocutseveralstripstoachievethenecessarylength.Manysourcescallforthesestripstobecutonthebias,butforbinding

straight-sideditemslikequilts,Ifindthatstripscutwiththegrainworkjustfine.

2.Withrightsidestogether,jointhestripsintoonecontinuouslength.Placeonestripontopoftheotheraligningtheshortedges;pin.Sewthemtogetherwitha¼"(6mm)seamallowanceandpresstheseamallowanceopen.Continueuntilallstripsarejoined.(FIGURE1)

3.Foldtheentirestripinhalflengthwise(wrongsidestogether),pressingasyoufold.(FIGURE2)

attachingquiltbinding

4.Beginninginthecenterofonesideofthequilt,alignbothrawedgesofthefoldedbindingstripwiththerawedgesofthequilt;pin.Sewinplacewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE3)

5.Whenyoureachacorner,here’showtoturnit:

Sewuntilyouare½"(13mm)fromthecornerofthequilt.Backstitchandcutthethread.(FIGURE4)

Foldthebindingsoit isperpendiculartoitself.(FIGURE5)Holdingthefoldededgeinplace,foldthebindingagainsothattherawedgesofthefoldedbindingmeettherawedgeofthenextsideofthequilt.(FIGURE6)

Lowerthemachineneedleintothebindingandquiltlayersatthecornerandsewalongthissideofthequiltuntilyoureachthenextcorner(FIGURE7),thenrepeatstep5.

finishingquiltbinding

6.Whenyou’vesewnaroundall4corners,stopyourseamabout12"(30.5cm)beforeyou

reachthepointwhereyoubeganattachingthebinding.Removethequiltfromthemachine,andtrimthebindingstriptoabout3"(7.5cm)pastthepointwhereyoubeganattachingthebinding.(FIGURE8)

7.Foldtheendofthebindingata45-degreeangleandpress.Returnthequilttothemachineandpickupsewingwhereyouleftoff,stitchingallthewaytothefoldedendofthestrip.(FIGURE9)

8.Foldthebindingovertherawedgetothebacksideofthequilt.(FIGURE10)Whipstitchthefoldededgeofthebindingtothequiltback(FIGURE11)andatthejoinofthebinding,makingyourstitchesassmallaspossible.

fabricbasics

Beforeyoupurchasefabricforyourprojects,youshouldunderstandsomefabricpropertiesandterminology.

FABRICWIDTH:Theyardagerecommendationsintheprojects’supplieslistsarebasedon45"-(115cm-)widefabric.However,fabricissometimessoldinotherwidths.Ifyoupurchaseawidthotherthan45"(115cm),takecaretodouble-checkthesizesofthefabricpiecesyouneedtocuttomakesureyou’rebuyingenough.

THERIGHTSIDEofthefabricisthesidethatwillshowonyourfinishedpiece.Fabricprints,texture,andsurfacecharacteristics(likelusterandsheen)areontherightside.

THEWRONGSIDEofthefabricisthesidethatwillbeontheinsideofyourproject.

preshrinking

Ifyourfabricismachinewashable,Irecommendwashinganddryingitbeforesewingtopreshrinkthefibers.Ifyouskipthisstep,yourfinisheditemcouldbunchattheseamsornotfitproperlyafterbeingwashed.Ifyoudon’tintendtolaunderanitem(fornonwashableitemssuchasTheMagicSewingKit,forexample)youdon’tneedtoworryaboutpreshrinking.

grain

Ifyoulookcloselyatawovenfabric,you’llseeit’smadeupoffinethreadswoveninagridpattern,withshortercrosswisethreadsthatweaveunderandoverlongerlengthwisethreads.

THESELVAGEisthenarrowfinishedborderthatrunsalongbothlongedgesofthefabricasitcomesoffthebolt.Thisiswherethecrosswisethreadschangedirectionduringtheweavingprocess.

LENGTHWISEGRAINreferstothethreadsthatrunparalleltotheselvageedgesandhavelittlestretchorgive,whichiswhymostfabricsarecutonthelengthwisegrain.Cutalllengthmeasurementsonthelengthwisegrain.

CROSSWISEGRAINreferstotheshorterthreadsthatrunperpendiculartotheselvageedges;thesethreadshavemorestretchandgivethanlengthwisethreads.Cutallwidthmeasurementsonthecrosswisegrain.

BIASGRAINisthediagonalintersectionofthelengthwiseandcrosswisethreadsandhasalotofstretch.

CUTTINGLARGEFABRICPIECES

Itcanbetrickytocutlargepiecesoffabricevenly.Herearesometipsthatmighthelpwhenyouarecuttinglargeitemssuchascurtainandquiltpieces.

*Usetheselvageedgeofthefabricasaguide,andmakethefirstcutparalleltothisedge.Basesubsequentcutsonthisfirstonetokeepthecuttinglinesstraight.

*Whenworkingwith very large pieces, fold the fabric, aligning the selvage edgewithitself,andcutthroughseverallayersatonce.

*Use a large cuttingmat and rotary cutter; the lines on these tools reallyhelp tokeepthefabricstraight.

*Whenworkingwithvery largepieces, I use a carpenter’s laserT-square tomarkstraightlinesonmyfabricandmakeperfectcornersonmyquilts.

Thinkyouneedfancyskillstosewstylishclothes?I’mheretotellyouthatthat’ssimplynottrue!Youcansewawidearrayofbasicpiecesusing—youguessedit—straightlinesonly.

Thesecretisinthefabricyouchoose.Lookforfabricsthatdrapewell(suchasknitsor

sheers),whichwillgiveeventhesimplestgarmentsaflatteringshape.Orchoosebold,eye-catchingprints,whichallowthefabrictobethestarinanotherwisebasicpiece.

Theprojectsinthischapterareguaranteedtolookgreatandteachyoutonsofskills.Ifyou’reabeginner,startwiththeOne-HourSkirtortheShirredtotheMaxdress(they’re

bothsimpletubeswithalittleelasticintherightplaces),orthe60-SecondBelt—it’sthe

epitomeofinstantDIYgratification!

CheckouttheEasy,BreezyBlousetoworkwithadelicatesheerfabric,ortheFirstTime’s

aCharmCardi,acomfyknitgarmentthat’seasyevenifyou’veneversewnwithknits.TryyourhandattheCityGirlTotetolearnthebasicsofbagconstruction,orstitchQuiltyZigsandZags,astrikingquiltedbeltthat’ssupereasytopersonalize.

Forachallenge,don’tmisstheOrigamiDress,asweet,swingynumberthatfeaturesanintricatepleatedtrim.WorkwithademandingmaterialintheHeavyMetalBag—astudded,

faux-leatherpursethatnoonewillbelieveyoumadeyourself.TheSewingSchoolSkirtisatailoringtutorialthatwillshowyoutheinsandoutsofmakingafittedwaistband,pleats,and

buttonholes.

Youcancustomizeeachofthegarmentstoyourownbodysizeforafitthat’ssuretoflatter.Beforeyoubegin,takeyourbodymeasurements(orbetter,haveafriendtakethem)

andwritethemdown.Ifyouhavedoubtsaboutanyproject,sewamuslinsamplefirsttogain

afirmunderstandingoftheconstructionprocessandworkoutanykinksrelatedtosize,fit,andsewingtechniques.

Soundlikefun?Itis!AndIpromisethatsewingyourownclothesisn’tastrickyasyoumightthink.Let’sgetstarted!

TheOne-HourSkirt

theone-hourskirt

Whenyouseehoweasyitistosewyourownquickandcomfyskirtyouwon’teverwanttopurchasethiswardrobebasicofftherackagain.Withjustoneyardoffabricandameresixtyminutes,youcanwhipupafantasticlittlenumberthatlookslikeamillionbucks.Youcaneasilyadaptthispatterntomakeavarietyofdifferentlooks—tryanarrowerelasticwaist,alongerlength,orevenlessgatheringtosuityourownpersonalstyle.

finisheddimensionsWIDTH:SizedtofityourbodyLENGTH:18"(45.5cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Approximately1yard(91cm)mediumweightfabric(seeNote)*1¾"-(4.5cm-)wideelastic(thelengthofyourwaistcircumference)*Onelargesafetypin

fabricsuggestionsImadethisskirtinacotton-linenblend,whichissoftandhasgreatdrape.Almostanylightormediumweightfabricwillworkforthisproject;justkeepinmindthatthetextureofthefabricyouchoosewilldeterminewhetheryourskirtisflowyormorestructured.

note

Thisgarmentissizedtofityourmeasurementssotheexactamountoffabricneededwill vary. Read the entire pattern and take your body measurements (Step 1) todeterminetheexactamountyou’llneed.Buyextrawhenindoubt.

1.measure+cutFABRIC:Measureyourhipcircumference(7"–8"[18cm–20.5cm]belowyournaturalwaist,oratyourwidestpoint)formeasurementA.Cut2rectangleswithawidthequaltoAandalengthof22½"(57cm).(FIGURE1)

ELASTIC:Measureyourwaistcircumferenceandcutapieceofelastictothatmeasurementminus1"(2.5cm).

2.sewthesideseamsPinthensewthe2front/backpiecestogetheralongboth22½"(57cm)edgeswith¼"(6mm)Frenchseams.(FIGURE2)

3.sewthewaistbandcasingTurnunderthetopedge½"(13mm);press.Turnunderthisfoldedtopedge2"(5cm);pressthenpin.Topstitchthefoldededgeinplace,leavinga4"(10cm)openingnearoneofthesideseams.(FIGURE3)

4.sewthehemTurnunderthehem½"(13mm);press.Turnitunderagain1½"(3.8cm);pressthenpin.Topstitchtheheminplace.

5.finishthewaistbandAttachasafetypintooneendoftheelasticandthreadthatendthroughtheentirewaistbandcasing,beingcarefulnottotwisttheelastic.Whenthesafetypingetsbacktotheopening,overlapthe2rawedgesoftheelastic½"(13mm)andsewthemtogetherwithastraightstitch,backstitchingtoreinforceatthebeginningandendoftheseam.Insertthejoinedelasticendsbackintothecasing.Topstitchtheopeningofthecasingclosed.

Distributethegathersevenlyaroundtheskirt.Oncethegathersarearranged,stitchintheditchalongeachsideseamatthewaistbandtosecuretheelasticinplace.

gocustom

Youcanchangethispatternupinlotsofwaystomakewhateverkindofskirtyourheartdesires.Hereareafewoptions.

*Ifyoupreferthelookofaskinnywaistband,justusethinnerelasticandadjustthewaistbandcasingaccordingly.(Makethecasing¼"[6mm]widerthantheelastic.)

*Thisskirtmeasures18"(45.5cm)fromwaisttohem.Tomakeitlongerorshorter(ifyoudare!),justadjustthelengthoftherectangleyoucutinStep1.(Youmayneedtobuymorefabricforalongerskirt.)

*Thefabricyouchoosehasahugeimpactonthelookofthisgarment.Averylightfabricwitha lotofdrapewillgiveyoua flowyskirt; choosesomethingstiff liketaffetaforapoufyball-gowneffect.

QuiltyZigsandZags

quiltyzigsandzags

Addalittlecraftyflairtoyourlookwiththisgraphicbelt.Thelayersoffree-formquiltingareeasyandfuntodo,butifyoupreferadifferentlook,youcanmakethisbeltwithapatternedfabricandkeepthequiltingmoreminimal.Ilovethatthisbeltmakesabigstatement,yetit’smadefromsoftmaterialsthatarecomfortableenoughtowearallday,evenifyousitatadesk.Anythingthat’scuteandcomfortableisawinnerinmybook!finisheddimensionsWIDTH:2¼"(5.5cm)LENGTH:Sizedtofityourbody

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*¼yard(23cm)solidmedium-weightcotton*¼yard(23cm)medium-loftcottonquiltbatting*All-purposethreadtomatchfabric*All-purposethreads(in2colors)tocontrastwithfabric*Beltbucklewith2"(5cm)openingandcenterbar

fabricsuggestionsQuiltingcottonsareperfectforthisbelt;almostanymedium-weightwovenwouldworktoo.

GettingClosure

Wheretofindtheperfectbuckle?IchosethisonefromthelegendaryM&JTrimminginNewYorkCity(mjtrim.com).Trycheckingyourlocaltrimmingshops,butbetteryet,keepyoureyespeeledatthriftstoresandfleamarkets;youmayfindanoldbeltwith a cool buckle that’sworth recycling. Etsy.com has a great selection of craftybuckles,too.

1.measure+cutMeasureyourbodyatyourtruewaist.Add10"(25.5cm)tothisnumberformeasurementA.

FABRIC:Cut2stripsoffabric2¾"(7cm)wideandaslongasA(ifyourfabricisn’tlongenoughtoaccommodateA,piece2stripsoffabrictogether).

BATTING:Cutonestripofbattingthesamesizeasthefabric,minus4"(10cm)inlength.

2.sewthelayerstogetherLayerbothpiecesoffabricrightsidestogether,aligningallrawedges.Placethebattingontopofthelayeredfabric,alignedatone2¾"(7cm)end.Cutthisend(throughthebattingandbothfabriclayers)atanangletoformtheslantedendofthebelt.(Aimfora45-degreeangle,butitdoesn’thavetobeperfect.)Pinall3layerstogether.

Usingthreadtomatchyourfabric,sewaround3sideswitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.Leavetheunslantedendopen.(FIGURE1)

Carefullytrimtheseamallowancetoapproximately⅛"(3mm).Trimtheexcessfabricandbattingfromthepointsofthecorners.Turnthepiecerightsideoutsothatbothpiecesoffabricareoutsideandthebattingisinside.Useapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners.

Pressthebeltthoroughly,usingyourfingerstospreadtheseamsflatandopenasyougo.

Turnundertheremainingrawedges¼"(6mm)totheinside.Press.Topstitchnearthefoldtoclosetheend.

3.quiltthebeltAdjustyourmachine’sstitchlengthtoaquiltinglength;Irecommend8stitchesperinch(3mm-longstitches).Usingcontrastingthreadandastraightstitch,andbeginningatoneendofthebelt,simplysewarandom,zigzagginglineallthewaytotheotherendofthebelt.Make4passesinthefirstcolorofthread,alternatingbetweensharpandwideangles.Changetoadifferentcolorthreadandmakeonemorepass.(FIGURE2)

4.attachthebuckleWrapthestraightendofbeltaroundthecenterpostofthebuckle.Byhand,whipstitchtheendtothebodyofthebelt1"(2.5cm)fromthepostofthebuckle.

perfectlyrandom

Sometimes it’s tricky to get that perfectly unplanned look in a project. I got myunevenzigzageffecthereby layeringseveral free-formpassesofquiltingstitches. Ivaried thewidth of each zig and zagwithout premeditation, and I also varied thepointatwhicheachzigandzag turned. If you lookcloselyyoucan see that somepoints reachalmost to theedgeof thebelt,whileothersdon’t extendquite so far.That’sallthereistoit—soletgoofallplanningandjustwingitonthisone,foranendresultthat’sallyou!

ShirredtotheMax

shirredtothemax

WouldyoubelievemeifIsaidthismaxidressisasnaptomake?Asupereasytechniquecalledshirringcreatesthefittedbodice,transformingaplainrectangleintoafitted,flatteringgarment—likemagic!Addaboldprint,andyou’vegotamajorstatementdressthatyoucanstitchupinjustacouplehours.Andifstraplessisn’tyourthing,noworries—youcanaddstrapsinasnap.

finisheddimensionsSizedtofityourbody

supplies

*Basicsewingsupplies*Approximately3yards(2.7m)lightweightcottonfabric(seeNote)*Elasticthread

fabricsuggestionsVerylightcottons,suchasvoile,areidealtoachieveasoft,floatysilhouette.

1.measure+cut

BUST:Measureyourbustcircumferenceandadd1"(2.5cm)formeasurementA.

DRESSLENGTH:Measureyourdesireddresslengthandadd2"(5cm)formeasurementB.

Cut2rectanglesthatareaswideasAandaslongasB.(FIGURE1)

note

Thisgarmentissizedtofityourmeasurementssotheexactamountoffabricneededwillvary.Readtheentirepatternandtakeyourbodymeasurements(Step1)todeterminetheexactamountyou’llneed.Buyextrawhenindoubt.

2.sewthefrontandbackPinthensewthefrontandbackpiecestogetheralongoneofthelongsideswitha¼"(6mm)Frenchseamtoformonelargerectangle.(FIGURE2)

3.hemandmarkthetopTurnunderthetopedge½"(13mm);press.Turnthefoldededgeunder½"(13mm)again;press.Topstitchtheheminplace.

Laythedresssotherightsideisfacingup.Beginning¾"(2cm)fromthetopedge,usechalkoradisappearinginkpentodrawlinesparalleltothetopedgespaced¾"(2cm)apart.Drawasmanylinesasyouwouldlikerowsofgathering;morelineswillcreateamorefittedbodice.Forthedressshownhere,8rowsweredrawn.(FIGURE2)

4.shirrthebodiceHand-windtheelasticthreadontoanemptybobbin.Addalittlebitoftensionasyouwind.Don’tworrytoomuchaboutgettingitperfect;justmakesuretherearenoknotsandthethreadissomewhatevenlywoundonthebobbin.Loadthebobbinintoyourmachineasyounormallywould.Useall-purposethreadintheneedle.Withthefabricrightsideup,sewalongthemarkedlinesonyourdress,startingwiththelinenearestthetopedge.Backstitchatthebeginningandendofeachshirredrow.Theelasticthreadwillautomaticallycreatethegathersasyousew;atfirstthefabricmaynotgatherverymuch,butasyousewmorerowsthegatheringwillincrease.Stretchoutthefabricasyouworktokeepitflatasyoustitcheachline.Aftersewingthelinesofshirring,steamthefabricbyholdingasteamironjustabovetheshirring,whichwillcausetheshirringtobunchup.Donotpresstheironontheshirring,oryouwillflattenit.

tip

Ifstraplessisn’tyourstyle,addstrapsbystitchingribbontotheinsidetopedge,ormakenarrowstrapsfromyourfabric.

5.sewtheremainingsideseamPinthensewthedress’sremaininglongedgestogetherwitha¼"(6mm)Frenchseam.Makesurethetopandbottomedgesandshirredrowsareallaligned.(FIGURE3)

6.hemtheskirtTurnunderthehem½"(13mm)andpress.Turnitunderagain1"(2.5cm)andpress.Topstitchtheheminplaceclose.(FIGURE3)

shirrgenius

Simplybyreplacingyournormalbobbinthreadwithelasticthread,youcancreateagatheredeffectthatiscomfyandflatteringtoboot.Onthisdress,youcanworktheshirringtojustbelowthebustline,extenditalittlelowertoflatterthemidriff,orworkitallthewaytothewaistline.Practiceonsomescrapfabricjusttogetthehangofit.Herearesomepointersto

getyoustarted.

*Handwindtheelasticthreadaroundyourbobbin;itwon’tworkonthemachine.Windwithalittletension,butnottoomuch.

*Marktheshirrlinesbeforesewing,oruseyourpresserfoottospacethem.

*Backstitchsecurelyatthebeginningandendofeachline.

*Youwon’tseemuchgatheringatfirst,butdon’tfret.Themorelinesyousew,themoreyourfabricwillpucker.

*Aftershirring,blastyourfabricwithasteamiron(held1inch[2.5cm]abovetheshirring)toseeitpuckerupevenmore.

*Trythistechniqueonsleevecuffsandnecklines.

Easy,BreezyBlouse

easy,breezyblouse

Whendesigningthistop,Iwantedtoshowthateventhemostbasicgarmentcouldlooksophisticatedifstitchedintherightfabric.Iusedahigh-endsilkchiffontotransformasimpleboxyshapeintoadreamy,fluidsilhouettethat’slightasair—andtheendresultistrulygreaterthanthesumofitsparts.Sewingchiffoncanbeachallenge,sothisbasictopistheperfectstartingprojectifyou’renewtosheermaterials.

finisheddimensionsWIDTH:SizedtofityourbodyLENGTH:25"(63.5cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Approximately1½yards(1.4m)silkorpolyesterchiffon(seeNote)

1.measure+cutFRONTANDBACK:Measurethewidthofyourbodyfromshouldertoshoulderandadd6"(15cm)formeasurementA.Cut2rectangleswiththewidthofAand26"(66cm)long.(Ifyoupreferadifferentlengththantheoneshownhere,measurefromyourshouldertothelengthyouwantandadd1"[2.5cm]forseamallowances,andcutyourrectangletothislength.)(FIGURE1)

WorkingwithChiffon

If this isyour first timeworkingwithchiffon, I suggestbuyinga littlemore fabricthanyouneed.Usetheextratopracticecutting,sewingseams,andhemming—you’llbeaproinnotime!Sheerfabricslikechiffoncanbedifficulttocutstraight,buttheyoftenteareasilyinastraightline.Testonyourfabricfirsttomakesureyougettheresultsyouwant,andthencutoutyourrectanglesbysnippingthefabricandgentlypullingthefabric

atthesniptotearit.Don’tworry,it’snotasscaryasitsounds.

note

Thisgarmentissizedtofityourmeasurementssotheexactamountoffabricneededwill vary. Read the entire pattern and take your body measurements (Step 1) todeterminetheexactamountyou’llneed.Buyextrawhenindoubt.

SLEEVES:Cut2rectangles26"(66cm)longand24"(61cm)wideforthesleeves.(Thiscreatesaverywidesleeve;ifyouprefer,youcancustomizethesleevetoadifferentwidth.Loopatapemeasurelooselyaroundyourupperarmtodeterminethewidthyouprefer,andcuttothismeasurementplus1"[2.5cm]forseamallowances.)(FIGURE2)

2.sewshoulderseamsWithwrongsidestogether,pinthefronttothebackwiththetoprawedgesaligned.Sewtheshoulderseamswitha¼"(6mm)Frenchseam.Startstitchingateachsideedgeandcontinuefor5"(12.5cm),leavingthecenterofthetopedgeopenfortheneck.Presstheseamallowancestotheback.(FIGURE3)

3.attachthesleevesLaythejoinedfront/backpiecewrongsideuponaflatsurface.Withwrongsidestogether,pinonesleevetothefront/back,centeringa24"(61cm)edgeovertheshoulderseam,aligningrawedges(FIGURE4).Sewthesleevetothetopwitha¼"(6mm)Frenchseam.Presstheseamallowancetowardthesleeve.Repeatfortheremainingsleeve.

4.sewsideseamsFoldthetopattheshoulderseams,wrongsidestogether,aligningtheunderarmandsideedges.Sewfromthebottomupthesideseamsandalongthearmswith¼"(6mm)Frenchseams.(FIGURE5)

5.hemtheneck,sleeves,andbottomedgeTocreateanarrowhemonsheerfabric,workasfollows:FirstTopstitch¼"(6mm)fromthefabric’srawedge,thenturnunderthehemalongthestitchingandpress(FIGURE6).

Stitchagainabout⅛"(3mm)fromthefold,stitchingthroughbothlayers.Carefullytrimthehemallowanceasclosetothesecondstitchinglineasyoucan.(FIGURE7)

Turnupthehemoncemorealongthesecondstitchinglineandpress.Topstitchclosetotheupperfoldededge(ascant⅛"[3mm]fromtheouteredge)andpress.(FIGURE8)

Using½"(13mm)hemallowancesandthemethoddescribedabove,makeanarrowhemalongthenecklineandthebottomedge.Tryonthetopandmarkhowlongyouwantthesleeves.Makesuretheyareequal.Ifnecessary,trimeachsleeve½"(13mm)belowyourmarkedlengthandmakeanarrowhemaroundeachsleeveopening.

CityGirlTote

citygirltote

HereinNewYork,totebagsareanessentialforcityladies.Ineverleavemyapartmentwithoutone,andeverydaymybagisstuffedwitheverythingfrommylunch,makeup,andachangeofshoestoacraftproject,awaterbottle,andwhoknowswhatelse.Whew—Igettiredjustthinkingabouteverythingwecarryaround,butanadorablebagmakesitmuchmorebearable.Ifyou’reabasicdresser,there’snobetterwaytoaddsomepizzazztoyourlookthanwithacutetote.Ifyoulovefabric,totesaretheperfectuseforsnazzytextiles.finisheddimensionsWIDTH:19"(48.5cm)HEIGHT(excludingstrap):15"(38cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*1yard(91cm)heavyweightfabric(forexterior)*1yard(91cm)medium-heavyfabric(forliningandstraps)*1yard(91cm)heavyweightfusibleinterfacing*5yards(4.6m)½"-(13mm-)widemetallictrim*All-purposethreadtomatchyourfabrics*All-purposethreadtocontrastwithyourfabrics

fabricsuggestionsHeavy fabrics such as canvas or cotton duckwillmake a nice, sturdy tote. I suggest amedium-heavy fabric for thelining,suchascottontwill.

1.measure+cutBODYEXTERIORANDINTERFACING:Cutone32"×20"(81cm×51cm)rectanglefromtheexteriorfabric.Findthecenterpointofeachlongedge,andcutacentered3"×5"(7.5cm×12.5cm)rectanglefromeachside.Cutonepiecethesamesizeandshapefromtheinterfacing.(FIGURE1)

LINING:Cutone26"×20"(66cm×51cm)rectanglefromtheliningfabric.Findthecenterpointofthelongedgeandcuta3"×5"(7.5cm×12.5cm)rectanglefromeachside,justasyoudidfortheexterior.

FACING:Cuttwo4"×20"(10cm×51cm)piecesfromtheexteriorfabricand2fromtheinterfacing.

STRAPS:Cuttwo6"×30"(15cm×76cm)piecesfromtheliningfabricand2fromtheinterfacing.(FIGURE2)

2.attachinterfacingUsingasteamiron,fusetheinterfacingpiecestothewrongsidesofthecorrespondingexteriorandfacingpieces.

3.sewthetoteexteriorFoldthetoteexteriorinhalfwithrightsidestogetherandshortedgesaligned;pin.Sewsideseamswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE3)Presstheseamallowancesopen.Foldthecornersflat,centeringthesideseams;pin.Stitchclosedwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE3INSET)Trimthecorners,turnthetoterightsideout,anduseapointytooltocarefullypokeoutthecorners.Presstheseams.

4.sewthefacingandliningWithrightsidestogetherandaligningalledges,pinthensewafacingpiecetoeachshortedgeoftheliningwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamallowancetowardthefacing.

Foldtheentirepieceinhalfwithrightsidestogetherandtherawedgesofthefacingaligned;pin.Sewthesideseamswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance,leavinga6"(15cm)openinginthecenterofonesideseam.(FIGURE4)Sewthecornersclosed;trim,turn,andpressthemasyoudidfortheexteriorinStep3.

5.attachtheliningtothebagWiththelininginsideout,thetoteexteriorrightsideout,andwithrightsidestogether,placethetoteexteriorinsidethelining,aligningthesideseamsandtoprawedges;pin.Sewtheexteriorandfacingtogetheratthetoprawedgeswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Turnrightsideout,carefullyturningthetotethroughtheopeninginthesideseamofthelining.

Extendtheliningabovethebagandpresstheseamallowancetowardthefacing.Turnthelininginsidethebagandpressthefoldedtopedgewherethefacingmeetstheexterior.Topstitchtheupperedgeofthetote,sewingclosetotheedge.

Whipstitchtheopeningintheliningclosed.

6.makestrapsUsingthestrappiecescutinStep1,make2strapsfollowingthesedirections.

Cutfour30"(76cm)lengthsofmetallictrim.Positionalengthoftrimapproximately¼"(6mm)infromeachlongedgeontherightsideofthestraps.Stitchinplacewithazigzagstitch.

7.attachthestrapsPinthestraps,rightsidefacingout,4"(10cm)infromthesideseamsandwiththerawendsofthestraps2"(5cm)downfromtheupperedgeofthebag.Topstitcheachendinplace,stitchingovertheexistingtopstitchingalongthestrap’sedges.Topstitchanotherlineabout2"(5cm)longdownthecenterofthestrap.(FIGURE5)

COVERTHERAWENDSOFTHESTRAPS:Cutfour2"(5cm)lengthsoftrim.Placeonelengthovereachstrapend,coveringtherawedge.Zigzagstitchthetriminplace.(FIGURE5,INSET)

FirstTime’saCharmCardi

firsttime’sacharmcardi

Confessiontime:UntilIdesignedthiscardigan,Ihadneversewnwithknits.Iwasafraidofthem.IthoughtIneededsomethingspecial,likeaspecialsewingmachineorspecialthreadorsomemagicalspecialabilitytosewstretchythings.Turnsout,Iwascompletelywrong!Sewingknitsisverysimilartosewingwovenfabrics,andyouuseallthesametechniquesandtools.Soevenifyou’veneversewnwithknits,givethiscardiatry—you’llbegladyoudid.

finisheddimensionsWIDTH:SizedtofityourbodyLENGTH:28"(71cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Approximately2yards(1.8m)stretchknitfabric(seeNote)

note

Thisgarmentissizedtofityourmeasurementssotheexactamountoffabricneededwill vary. Read the entire pattern and take your body measurements (Step 1) todeterminetheexactamountyou’llneed.Buyextrawhenindoubt.

1.measure+cutBACK:Measureyourbustcircumferenceanddividethatnumberinhalf.Add3"(7.5cm)formeasurementA.CutarectanglewithawidthofmeasurementAandalengthof29"(74cm).

FRONTS:Cut2rectangleswithawidthequaltohalfofmeasurementAminus4"(10cm)andalengthof29"(74cm).(FIGURE1)

SLEEVES:Cut2rectangles24"(61cm)wideand11"(28cm)long.(Thiscreatesaverywide,kimono-styleelbow-lengthsleeve.Ifyoupreferadifferent-sizedsleeve,adjustthelengthandwidthaccordinglyhere.Wrapatapemeasurelooselyaroundyourupperarmtohelpdeterminethesleevewidthyouprefer.)

FRONTFACING:Youwillalsoneedtocuttwo7"(18cm)stripsforthefrontfacing,butyoumustfirstconstructthecardiganfrontsandbacktodeterminethenecessarymeasurement.Besuretoallowfortheseextrapieceswhencutting.(SeeStep7formoredetails.)(FIGURE2)

2.sewtheshoulderseamsWithrightsidestogether,pinthefrontstothebackatthetopedges(therewillbeagapbetweenthefrontpieces,asshown).Seweachfronttothebackacrossthetopedgewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE3)

3.attachthesleevesOpenthefrontandbackpieceandlayitflat,rightsideup.Withrightsidestogether,pinonesleevetothecardiganfrontandback,centeringthewideendofthesleeveovertheshoulderseam,withtheedgesaligned.Sewwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE4)Presstheseamallowancetowardthesleeve(thisisimportantforcreatinganiceunderarmseaminStep5).Repeatfortheremainingsleeve.

4.shapetheneckbackWithwrongsidestogether,foldthecardiganbackinhalfverticallyandmarkthecenterpoint(ontherightside)atthetopedgewithapin;unfoldandlayflat,rightsideup.Usingasmallplateorotherroundobject,traceacurveontotheback,centeredbetweenthe2frontpieces,about1"(2.5cm)deep.Cutthemarkedcurveoutoftheneckline.(FIGURE5)

5.sewthesideandunderarmseamsWithrightsidestogether,foldthecardiganattheshoulderseamsandaligntheunderarmandsideedges;pin.Beginningatthebottom(hemedge),sewalongthesideandunderarmseamswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE6)

6.hemthebottomedgeNOTE:Itmayseemcounterintuitivetohemthebottomedgebeforethefrontfacinghasbeenadded,butthefacingwillbefinishedseparatelyinStep7.

Turnthebottomhemunder½"(13mm)andpress.Turnthehemunderagain1"(2.5cm);press,thenpin.Topstitchtheheminplace.Ifyourfabricisverylightweight,addastripoflightweightinterfacingtothehemallowancebeforeyousewitinplacetostabilizethestitching.

7.makethefrontfacingWithatapemeasure,measurefromthebottomhemalongthefrontedgeandaroundthenecklinetothecenterback.(FIGURE7)Cut2stripsoffabricthislengthplus1"(2.5cm),and7"(18cm)wide.Withrightsidestogetherandthe7"(18cm)endsaligned,sewthe2stripstogetherwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamallowanceopen.Withrightsidestogetherandlongedgesaligned,foldthestripinhalflengthwise;pinthensewthe2shortendsclosedwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE8)Trimthecornersandturnthestriprightsideout.Press.

8.attachthefacingWithrightsidestogetherandrawedgesaligned,pinthefacinginplacealongthecardigan’sfrontsand(back)neck.Alignthefacing’scenterseamwiththecardigan’scenter

back.Sewinplace,usinga½"(13mm)seamallowanceandsewingthroughbothlayersofthefacingandthecardiganbody.Beginsewingatthebottomandworkuponefrontsidetothecenterback,thenstop,backstitch,andclipthethread.Startsewingagainatthebottomoftheothersideofthefront,sewingupthefronttothecenterback.(Workingupfromeachbottomedgeensuresthatthefinishedbottomedgesofthefacingwillbeperfectlyalignedwiththehem.)(FIGURE9)

Presstheseamallowancetowardthecardiganbodyand,ontherightside,Topstitchinplace.

9.hemthesleevesTurntherawedgeofthesleeveunder½"(13mm)andpress.Turnunderanother1"(2.5cm);press,thenpin.Topstitchtheheminplace.

getknittywithit

Iadmit, Iwasaknitnewbiebeforemaking this cardigan.But sewingwithknits iseasierthanyou’dthink!HereareafewpointersIlearnedalongtheway.

*Becauseknits stretch, they tend toshiftasyou’recutting them,whichmakes thecuttingslowgoing.Butjusttakeyourtimeandyou’llgetthroughit.Ifinditeasiertousearotarycutter,straightedge,andcuttingmat.

*Pinyourpieceswellbeforesewingtodiscouragethefabricfromshiftingmid-seam.

*Stretchthefabricslightlyasyousewit.Ifyoustretchittoomuch,itwilldistorttheseam.

*Knitsdon’tunravel,soifyouwanttokeepthingsreallysimple,youdon’thavetobotherfinishingyourrawedgesonhems,sleeves,etc.

*Steam-presseachseamafteryousewit.Other-wiseyou’llgetdiscouragedandthinkyou’vesewnanugly,distortedseam.Stitching tends tobunchuponknits,butaquickpresswiththeironsmoothesitrightout.Allbetter.

HeavyMetalBag

heavymetalbag

Ilovetosewthingsthatlookliketheycouldn’tpossiblybehandmade—andthisbagfitsthatbilltoaT.Fauxostrichisaluxedeparturefromatraditionalfabricchoice,andmetalhardwarelendsaprofessionaltouch.Thesematerialsareafunchallengetoworkwith,butifyouprefer,youcanalsousethispatterntosewabagfromawovenfabric.Forasofterlook,chooseroundstudsratherthanthepointedonesIused.

finisheddimensionsWIDTH:15"(38cm)LENGTH:(excludingstrap):15"(38cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*1yard(91cm)lightweightvinylfauxleather*½yard(46cm)medium-weightcotton(forlining)*¼yard(23cm)medium-weightmuslin(forstabilizer)*Four¾"(2cm)nailheads/studs*Four¼"(6mm)nailheads/studs*Four1⅛"(4.8cm)metalrings*Low-tackmaskingtape*Tissuepaper*Clapperorhardcoverbook*Heavy-dutysewingmachineneedle

fabricsuggestionsI used lightweight faux leather vinyl for this project. If you prefer, you canmake this bagwith a traditionalwovenfabric;medium-toheavyweightcottonsandblendswouldworkgreathere.

note

1.BesuretoreadtheWorkingwithVinylsidebarbeforebeginningthisproject.2.Ifyouuseawovenfabricinsteadofvinyl,simplyusestandardironingandsewingmethods.

1.measure+cutBAGBODYANDLINING:Cuttwo23"×12"(58.5cm×30.5cm)piecesfromtheexteriorfabricand2thesamesizefromtheliningfabric.Cuta2"(5cm)squarefromeachbottomcorner.

FACING:Cuttwo15"×4"(38cm×10cm)piecesfromtheexteriorfabric,and2thesamesizefromthemuslin(thestabilizer).

SIDESTRAPS:Cuttwo8"×4"(20.5cm×10cm)piecesfromtheexteriorfabric.

SHOULDERSTRAP:Cutone20"×4"(51cm×10cm)piecefromtheexteriorfabric.(FIGURE1)

2.makethepleatsMarkpleatplacementonthetopedgeofeachbagbodypieceasfollows:Startingattheleftedge,measureapoint5"(12.5cm)fromtheedge.MarkthisaspointA.Measureover2"(5cm)frompointA,andmarkpointB.MarkpointC2"(5cm)frompointB.MarkpointD5"(12.5cm)frompointC.MarkpointE2"(5cm)frompointD.MarkpointF2"(5cm)frompointE.(FIGURE1)

FoldpointsAandCtomeetatpointB.FoldpointsDandFtomeetatpointE.Pininplace.(Ifusingvinyl,besuretoplacepinsonlyintheseamallowance.)PressasdescribedintheWorkingwithVinylsidebar.

3.addstabilizertothefacingNOTE:Foraddedstrength,astabilizinglayerofmuslinissewntothewrongsideofthe

facing.

Withwrongsidestogether,sewonepieceofmuslinfacingtoeachbagfacing,sewingaroundall4sideswitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.

4.attachthefacingtothebagsidesWithrightsidestogether,pinthensewonefacingpiecetoeachbagbodypiecealongthepleatededge,witha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamallowancetowardthefacing.

Topstitchonthefacingclosetothefoldededge(seeWorkingwithVinylsidebarfortipsontopstitchingvinyl),placingapieceoftissuepaperontopofthefacingbeforesewing.Tearthetissueawayaftercompletingthetopstitching.(Youmayneedtocarefullyremoveanysmallpiecesoftissuewithtweezers.)(FIGURE2)

5.assemblethebagbodyWithrightsidestogether,sewthebagbodypiecestogetheralongthesideseamswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamallowancesopen.Sewthebottomseamwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(Itwillbehardtopressthisseamwithaniron,soit’snotnecessarytodoso.)(FIGURE3)

Foldthebagsothattherightsidesofthebottomandsideseamsmeetatthebottomcorners.Seweachcorneropeningclosedwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE3INSETS)

Turnthebagrightsideout.Pressthecornerseamsonthefold.

6.makethesidestrapsUsingthestrappiecescutinStep1,make2sidestrapsfollowingthesedirections.

Sandwichthefoldedstrapbetweentwo1"-(2.5cm-)widestripsoftissuepaper.Topstitchthestrapthroughthetissuepaperclosetothefoldededgealongbothlongedges.Tearthetissuepaperawayaftercompletingthestitching.

Insertthestrapthrough2ofthemetalringsasshowninFIGURE4.Bringtheshortendsofthestraptomeetsothatstrapformsaring.Withendsbuttedtogether(notoverlapping),whipstitchtheendstogether.(Ifyou’remakingyourbagfromfabricratherthanvinyl,zigzagstitchtheendsofthestraptopreventtherawedgesfromfraying.)Flattenthestrapsothatthewhipstitchedseamisatthecenterbackofthestrap,andaringisoneachend.Repeatfortheremainingstrap.

7.attachthesidestrapsPositionanassembledsidestrapovereachsideseamofthebagbody,withthefoldedtopendofeachstrap¾"(2cm)downfromtherawedgeofthebagfacing.Holdthestrapsinplacetemporarilybytapingtheringsandtheendsofthestrapsdownwithlow-tackmaskingtape.

Placea1"-(2.5cm-)widestripoftissuepaperovereachsidestrap,andtopstitchtheminplaceasfollows:Stitchingclosetothestrapedgeandpivotingatthecorners,sewdownonesideofthestrap,acrossthestrap,uptheotheredge,andbackacrosstoforma

rectangleofstitchingthatisapproximately1"(2.5cm)longandcenteredonthestrap,asshowninFIGURE5.

8.installthestudsRefertoFIGURE6forplacement.Markplacementfora¼"(16mm)studneareachendofeachsidestrap,centeredbetweentheringandthetopstitching.Withanawlorseamripper,carefullypiercethesidestrapthroughalllayersateachmark.Followingthemanufacturer’sdirectionsforinstallingstuds,insertastudthrougheachhole.

9.sewtheliningMarkandsewpleatsontheliningpiecesexactlyasyoudidforthebagbodyinStep2.

Placebothliningpiecesrightsidestogether;pin.Sewthesideseamswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance,leavinga6"(15cm)openingatthecenterofonesideseam.(It’simportanttosewthetopandbottomofthesideseamandleavetheopeninginthecenter;otherwisefinishingwillbetricky.)Presstheseamallowancesopen.

Sewthebottomseamwitha½"(13mm)seamallowanceandpresstheseamallowanceopen.SewthecornersasyoudidforthebagexteriorinStep5.(FIGURE3,INSET)

10.attachtheliningtothebag

Turnthelininginsideoutandplacethebagexteriorinsidetheliningwithrightsidestogether,aligningthetoprawedgesandsideseams.(Besuretofoldthesidestrapsoutoftheway.)Sewthefacingandliningtogetheratthetoprawedgewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Toturnthebagrightsideout,pulltheliningupoverbag,gentlyworkingthebagexteriorbodythroughtheopeningonthesideseamofthelining.Fromtherightsideofthefabric,presstheseamallowancetowardthelining.Whipstitchtheopeningintheliningclosed,andturntheliningtotheinteriorofbag.(NOTE:Whentheliningisfoldedtotheinside,thefacingwillalsofoldtotheinsideofthebag,foraslouchylook.Youdonotneedtopressorstitchthefacingatthefold,butratherletitslouchinnaturally.)

11.maketheshoulderstrapUsingthepiececutinStep1,maketheshoulderstrapfollowingthesedirections.

12.attachtheshoulderstrapFeed2"(5cm)oftheshoulderstrapthrougheachoftheupperringsonthe2sidestraps.Foldthestrapbackonitselfaroundtheringandtopstitchthis2"(5cm)overlapinplacewitharectangleasyoudidforthesidestrapsinStep7,sandwichingthestrapbetween2layersoftissuepaperbeforestitching.

13.installthestudsReferringtothephotographs(below),markplacementfortwo¾"(2cm)studsabovetheringsoneachoverlappedendoftheshoulderstrap.InstallstudsasyoudidforthesidestrapsinStep8.

workingwithvinyl

Iwon’tsugarcoatit—sewingvinylcanbeabittricky.Butthepayoffistotallyworthit:acoolfinishedpiecethatnoonewillbelieveyoumadeyourself.Andonceyougetthehangofvinyl’sspecialcharacteristics,it’sreallynothardtoworkwithatall.

HEREARESOMETIPSTOGETGREATRESULTS:

TESTFIRSTBeforebeginningonyouractualproject,practicecutting,pinning,stitching,andpressingonthevinylyou’llbeworkingwith.

PINSANDNEEDLESPlaceanewheavy-dutyneedleinyourmachine.(It’seasytoforgetthatyourneedlemightbedull,andasharpneedlewilldowondershere.)Pinsmakepermanentmarksinvinyl,soplacepinsonlyinsidetheseamallowances.

Or,uselow-tackmaskingtapeorclips,suchasquiltbindingclipsorsmallofficebinderclips,toholdpiecestogetherinsteadofpinning.

SEWINGNON-STICKSewingonthewrongsideofvinyliseasy;itsewsjustlikeregularfabric.Sewingontherightsideofvinylistricky,asitsticksanddoesn’tfeedthroughthemachineeasily.Butthere’saneasyfix.Changeyourstitchlengthtoalongersetting(around7stitchesperinch[3.5mm-longstitches]).Sandwichthevinylbetweenstripsoftissuepaper,andsewoverthepaper,removingitafterstitching.

TOPSTITCHINGTIPSWhentopstitchingoverthetissuepaper,itcanbehardtoseewhereyou’resewing,makingithardtoachieveprecisetopstitching.Tocompensate,IcutmytissuetotheexactsizeoftheareaI’mstitchingandaligntheedgesofthetissuewiththeedgesofthefabric.Ithenknowexactlywheretosew.(Forexample,whentopstitchinga1"-[2.5cm-]widestrap,Icuta1"-[2.5cm-]widestripoftissuepaperandalignitdirectlyoverthestrap.)

PRESSINGWITHOUTMELTINGYoumustpressvinylcarefullytoavoidmeltingit.Here’show:Useadryiron(nosteam),settomedium.Coverthevinylwithapresscloth.Ironitforafewseconds,thenremovetheironandquicklyplaceaclapperorhardcoverbookovertheareayoujustironed.Holdtheclapperorbookinplaceforseveralseconds,applyingpressure.Thiswillallowtheheattocontinuetopermeatethevinyl,withoutoverheatingandmeltingit.

the60-secondbelt

Gotaminute?Makeanadorablebelt!Wideelasticandacoolbeltbucklejoinforcestocreateanaccessorythat’ssimplyirresistible.

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*1yard(91cm)beltelasticinawidthtofitbuckleopening*Interlockingbeltbuckle*Threadtomatchelastic

1.Turnunderonerawendoftheelastic½"(13mm)andTopstitchinplace.Loopthisendoftheelasticthroughonesideofthebuckle,folding2"(5cm)ofelastictothewrongside(wrongsidestogether).Stitchinplaceclosetothefoldededge.

2.Repeattoattachtheremainingendoftheelastictotheremainingsideofthebuckle.(Beforesewingthesecondend,tryonthebeltandtrimthelengthoftheelasticforthefityouprefer.)

note

Beltelasticiswide,decorativeelasticthatcanbefoundinthetrimsectionofthefabricstore.Lookforitinfuncolors,patternedprints,orwithembellishmentssuchasrufflededges.

SewingSchoolSkirt

sewingschoolskirt

Iliketothinkofthisskirtasalittlesewingschoolallwrappedupinasingleproject.You’lllearntomakepleats,afittedwaistband,buttonplackets,andbuttonholes—allwhilesewingstraightlinesonly.Andevenbetter,attheendofthislesson,you’llhaveanadorablypreppy-chicskirttoshowoff.(Iloveitwithflatsorboots!)finisheddimensionsWIDTH:SizedtofityourbodyLENGTH:20¾"(51cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Approximately2yards(1.8m)fabric(seeNote)*½yard(46cm)lightweightfusibleinterfacing*Five1⅛"-(2.8cm-)diameterbuttons*All-purposethreadtomatchyourfabric*All-purposethreadtocontrastwithyourfabric

fabricsuggestionsAmediumtoheavyweightwovenisidealforthisskirt.Iusedacottontwill,butlightdenim,corduroy,orwoolwouldallworkgreat,too.

note

Thisgarmentissizedtofityourmeasurementssotheexactamountoffabricneededwillvary.Readtheentirepatternandtakeyourbodymeasurements(Step1)todeterminetheexactamountyou’llneed.Buyextrawhenindoubt.

1.measure+cutSKIRTFRONTS:Measureyourwaistcircumferenceandadd1½"(3.8cm)easeformeasurementA.DivideAby4andadd13¼"(33.5cm)formeasurementB.Cut2rectangleswithawidthofBandalengthof22¾"(58cm).

SKIRTBACK:DivideAby2andadd10"(25.5cm)formeasurementC.CutonerectanglewithawidthofCandalengthof22¾"(58cm).(FIGURE1)

INTERFACING:Cuttwo10"×22¾"(25.5cm×58cm)piecesoffusibleinterfacingfortheskirtfront.Youwillalsoneedtocutinterfacingforthewaistband;measurementstobedeterminedinStep9.

WAISTBAND:Youwillneedtocutfabricforawaistband,butyoucan’tdothisuntilyou’vedeterminedthesizeyou’llneedinStep9.Besuretoreserveenoughfabrictocuttwopieceswhichare2¾"(7cm)widebyatleastyourwaistmeasurementplus1"(2.5cm).(FIGURE2)

2.fuseinterfacingtoskirtfrontsFuseonepieceofinterfacingtothewrongsideofeachskirtfront,alongone22¾"(58cm)edge.Theinterfacededgeswillbethecenterfrontandthenoninterfacededgeswillbethesideseams,somakesureyoufuseoppositeedgesoneachskirtfrontpiece.(FIGURE3)

3.markthepleatsThisskirthas1½"-(3.8cm-)deepknifepleatsthatfaceawayfromtheskirtcenter.Besuretorefertotheillustrationsforclarificationinmarkingtheskirtfrontandbackpiecesforpleatplacement.

MARKFRONTPLEATS:Layeachskirtfrontpiecewiththerightsidefacingup.Workatthetopedgeofeachskirtfront:MarkpointA9½"(24cm)fromtheinterfacededge.MarkpointB3"(7.5cm)frompointA.MarkpointC1½"(3.8cm)frompointB.MarkpointD3"(7.5cm)frompointC.(FIGURE4)

MARKBACKPLEATS:Foldtheskirtbackinhalftofindthecenterback;mark.Openthebackandlayitflat,rightsidefacingup.ReferringtothemeasurementsinFIGURE5,markthetopedgeoftheskirtbackforpleatplacement(A–F)asyoudidforthefronts.BesuretomarkpointsA–Fonboththeleftandtherightsidesofthecenterback.

4.makethepleatsFOLDFRONTPLEATS:FoldthefabricawayfromtheinterfacededgesothatpointAmeetsBandpointCmeetsD;pin.(FIGURE6)Thiswillresultintwo1½"-(3.8cm-)deeppleats,eachfoldedinaZshape,facingawayfromtheskirtcenter.(Thepleatsontherightskirtfrontwillbefoldedtotheright,andthepleatsontheleftskirtfrontwillbefoldedtotheleft.)

FOLDBACKPLEATS:FoldthepleatsoneachsideofthebacktowardthesideseamssothatpointAmeetsB,pointCmeetsD,andpointEmeetsF.Thiswillresultinthree1½"-(3.8cm-)deeppleatsoneachsideoftheback,for6pleatstotal.(FIGURE7)

FRONTANDBACK:Pressthepleatsandbastealongtheirtopedgeswitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.

5.sewskirtfrontstobackWithrightsidestogether,pintheskirtbacktoeachskirtfrontpiecealongthenoninterfaced22¾"(58cm)edges(sideseams),aligningrawedges.Sewwitha¼"(6mm)Frenchseam.

6.pressfacingandhemguidelinesNOTE:Inthisstep,youwillfoldandpresstheskirt’sfacingandhemtocreateguidelinesthatwillbeusedinSteps7and8.

Onbothskirtfronts,turntheinterfacededgeunder2½"(6.5cm)andpress.Turnitunderanother2½"(6.5cm)andpress.Turnunderthehem½"(13mm)alongthebottomofthefrontandbackpiecesandpress.Turnunderthehemanother2"(5cm)andpress.

Unfoldtoproceed,usingthepressedlinesasguidelinesforSteps7and8.

7.foldandsewthefacingOnoneskirtfront,withrightsidestogether,foldthefacingedgetothefront5"(12.5cm)alongthepressedguidelineyoumadeinStep6.Keepingthisfoldinplace,foldtherawedgebacktomeetthefoldline(thefabricwillbefoldedina2½"-[6.5cm-]wideZ);pin.Sewacrossthefacingalongthehemline(thepressedguideline2½"[6.5cm]abovethebottomrawedge).(FIGURE8)Repeatfortheremainingskirtfront.

Trimtheoutsidecornersasshownandturnthefacingstothewrongside.Sew2linesofTopstitchingonbothfacingsalongbothlongfoldededges.Theseareyourbuttonplackets.

8.hemtheskirtRepressthehemallowancealongthefoldsmadeinStep6andtopstitchitinplaceclosetothehemallowance’stopedge.

tip

Showoff your favorite big buttons on this garment—but don’t go larger than 1⅛"(2.8cm),orthebuttonwillbetoolargetofitonthewaistband.

9.makethewaistbandMeasuretheskirt’sentiretopedgeandadd1"(2.5cm).Cut2waistbandfabricpiecesandoneinterfacingpiecethislengthby2¾"(7cm)wide.Fusetheinterfacingtothewrongsideofonewaistbandpiece.

SEWTHEFIRSTWAISTBANDPIECE:Withrightsidestogether,pintheinterfacedrectangletotheskirtwiththelongedgesalignedandshortendsextending½"(13mm)pasttheskirtfacingedges.Sewinplacewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE9)Presstheseamopen,withtheseamallowancepressedtowardthewaistband.

SEWTHESECONDWAISTBANDPIECE:Foldunderonelongedgeoftheremainingwaistbandpiece½"(13mm)andpress.Withrightsidestogetherandrawedgesaligned,pinthispiecetothewaistbandpiecealreadysewntotheskirt,aligningthelongfoldededgewiththewaistbandseam.Sewaroundtheendsandtopedgewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE10)

Trimthecornersandturnthefacingrightsideout.Useapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners.(FIGURE11)Thewaistbandwillnowbefinishedon3sides,withthefoldededgeontheinterior.Pinthefoldededgetotheinsideandwhipstitchtosecure.

10.addbuttonholesandbuttons(Refertoyoursewingmachine’smanualforinstructionsonmakingbuttonholes.)Ontherightskirtfront,makea1¼"-(3cm-)longhorizontalbuttonholecenteredonthewaistbandandstarting1"(2.5cm)fromtheedge.Add4verticalbuttonholesdownthelengthoftherightskirtfrontbuttonplacket1⅛"(2.8cm)fromtheedgeandspaced2½"(6.5cm)apart.(FIGURE12)

Useaseamrippertoopenallbuttonholes.Closetheskirtfrontwiththebuttonholeplacketlayingovertheleftskirtfront.Makeabuttonplacementmarkthrougheachbuttonholeontotheleftskirtfront.Sewabuttononeachmark.

OrigamiDress

origamidress

Nowthatyou’regettingcomfortablesewingstraightlines,areyoureadyforalittlechallenge?Takeitupanotchwiththisswingydress,featuringafancyfoldedtrimthatlookslikeit’sstraightoutofadesignerboutique.Thispatternwillalsoshowyouhowtoinstallazipper,usingmyfavoriteeasymethod.What’smore,multiplecolorsoffabrictricktheeyeintothinkingthisdesignisevenmorecomplexthanitis.Allinall,thisdresspacksmajorpunch,usingonlybasicskills.Goforit!finisheddimensionsWIDTH:SizedtofityourbodyLENGTH:31"(79cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Approximately2yards(1.8m)maincolorfabric(lightpurple)(seeNote)*¼yard(23cm)accent-colorfabric(gray)*½yard(46cm)contrasting-colorfabric(darkpurple)*11"(28cm)standardzipper*Hookandeye*All-purposethreadtocontrastwithfabric

fabricsuggestionsFor thebodyof thisdress I recommenda lightweight cottonor cottonblend.Medium-weight cottonsdon’tdrapeaswell.

note

Thisgarmentissizedtofityourmeasurementssotheexactamountoffabricneededwill vary. Read the entire pattern and take your body measurements (Step 1) todeterminetheexactamountyou’llneed.Buyextrawhenindoubt.

1.measure+cutDRESSFRONTANDBACK:Measureyourbody’scircumferencejustabovethebustformeasurementA.Fromyourmainfabric(lightpurple),cut2rectangleswithawidthequaltoAandalengthof31"(79cm).(FIGURE1)

CHESTBANDS:DividemeasurementAinhalfandadd1"(2.5cm)formeasurementB.Fromtheaccent(gray)fabric,cut4rectangleswithalengthofBandawidthof2½"(6.5cm).

ORIGAMITRIM:Fromtheaccent(gray)fabric,cut3rectanglesthatare3½"(9cm)wideandaslongasmeasurementAplus12"(30cm).

STRAPS:Fromthecontrastingfabric(darkpurple),cut2rectangles2"(5cm)wideby18"(45.5cm)long.(FIGURE2)

2.gatherthefrontandbackGatherthetopedgeofthedressbodypiecesasfollows:Bastethetopedgeofthedressbodyfrontandback¼"(6mm)fromrawedge.PullthebobbinthreadtogathereachpieceoffabricdowntoawidthofmeasurementB.Distributethegathersevenly.(FIGURE3)

3.attachthechestbandsWithrightsidestogether,pinthensewachestbandpiecealongthegatherededgeofthefrontandbackpieceswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance(FIGURE3).Trimtheseamallowancefromthedressbodypiece(nottheband)andpresstheseamallowancetowardthechestband.

4.markthecenterpointWithwrongsidestogether,foldeachfrontandbackpieceinhalfverticallytofindthecenterpoints.Markthesepointsonthechestbandwithapinormarkingtool.(ThesepointswillbeneededinStep7topositionthestraps.)

5.sewtheright-handsideseamWithrightsidestogether,pinthensewthefrontandbacktogetheralongtheright-handsideedgewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(Youwillsewtheleft-handsideseaminStep10.)Presstheseamallowanceopen.

6.makethestrapsUsingthepiecesyoucutinStep1,make2strapsfollowingthesedirections.

7.attachthestrapsWithrightsidestogether,pinoneendofeachstraptothechestband4½"(11.5cm)fromthecenterpointofthedressfront.(Therewillbeatotalof9"[23cm]betweenstraps.)Pintheotherendsofthestrapstothebackchestband,asyoudidonthefront.(FIGURE4)

Tryonthedresstocheckthestrapplacementandlength,adjustingasneeded.Withrightsidestogetherandrawedgesaligned,seweachstraptothefrontandbackchestband,usinga¼"(6mm)seamallowance.

8.assemblethefacingWithwrongsidestogether,andwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance,pinthensewthe2remainingchestbandpiecestogetheralongoneshortendtomakethefacing.Presstheseamallowanceopen.Foldonelongedgeunder½"(13mm)andpress.

9.attachthefacingWithrightsidestogetherandsideseamsaligned,pinthefacing’sunpressedlongedgealongthetopedgeofchestband.Sewalongthetopedgewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamallowancetowardthefacing.

10.sewtheleft-handsideseamWithrightsidestogetherandrawedgesaligned,pintheremainingsideseamtogether.Beginningatthe(top)facingseam(notatthetoprawedge),bastetheseamfor11"(28cm)witha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Afterbastingfor11"(28cm),changeyourmachine’sstitchlengthtoaregularstitch,backstitchtoreinforce,andsewtheremainderofthesideseamwitharegularstitch.Presstheseamallowanceopen.(FIGURE5)

11.installthezipper(RefertotheDon’tFeartheZippersidebar.)Withthedresswrongsideoutandwiththerightsideofthezipperfacingthefabric,pinthezipperoverthebastedsectionoftheleftsideseam,centeringtheteethoverthebastedseam.(FIGURE6)

Attachazipperfoottoyourmachine.Startingatthetopofthezipper,sewdownonesideofthezipper.Whenyoureachthebottom,pivotandsewacrossthezipper,thenpivottosewuptheothersideofthezipper,stoppingwhenyoureachthetop.(FIGURE7)

Workingontherightsideofthedress,useaseamrippertogentlyremovethebastingstitchesfromtheseamandexposethezipper.

12.maketheorigamistripWithrightsidestogetherandshortendsaligned,sewthe3trimstripstogetherwitha¼"(6mm)seamallowancetomakeonelongstrip.Presstheseamallowancesopen.

SEWTHESTRIP:Foldthestripinhalflengthwisewithrightsidestogetherandlongedgesaligned;pin.Sewthelongedgewitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.Turnthestriprightsideout,centertheseamonthestrip,andpress.(Thesidewiththeseamisthewrongsideofthestrip.)(FIGURE8)

Beginning2"(6cm)fromtheedgemarkthestripevery1½"(3.8cm)ontherightsideofthestrip.(FIGURE9)

Foldthestripwithwrongsidestogethersothateverythirdmarkmeets;pin.Sewthestripateachmeetingpoint,creatingaseriesofloopsonthestrip.Presseachloopflat.(FIGURE10)

FOLDEACHLOOPINTOADIAMONDSHAPE,ORIGAMISTYLE:RefertoFIGURE11.NOTE:Youcanviewavideoofthistechniqueonmywebsite:www.brettbara.com.

A.Ononeflattenedloop,pullthetopfrontedgeofthefoldedloopopen.

B.Bringthetwosideedgesofthelooptogethertomeetinthecenter,formingadiamondshape.

C.Pressflat.

D.Withcontrastingthread,secureeachdiamondinplaceinitscenter,eitherbyhandormachine.Tosecurebymachine,setyourstitchforawide,shortzigzag.Makeseveralzigzagstichesinthecenterofthediamond,backstitchingafewtimestoreinforce.

Foldthenextdiamondinthesamemanner,exceptopentheloopfromthebottomedge.Foldandstitchallthediamondshapesonthestrip,alternatingfoldingfromthetopandthebottomedges.

ATTACHTHEORIGAMISTRIPTOTHEDRESS:Foldundertherawedgesofthestripandpinthewrongsideofthefinishedorigamistripovertherightsideofthechestband;trimthelengthofthestripifnecessary.Whipstitchthestriptothebandalongbothlongedges.

tip

Youcan turn thisdress into a special-occasionaffair just byupgrading thedetails.Usea slinkyblack fabric for thebody,andconsider stitchingabeador rhinestoneontothecenterofeachdiamondinthetrim.Oohlala!

13.finishthefacingFoldthefacingtotheinside.Turnunderthefacing’srawsideedgesandwhipstitchtheminplace.Whipstitchthelongfoldededgeofthefacinginplace.

14.hemTurnunderthehem½"(13mm)andpress.Turnitunderagain1"(2.5cm)andpress.Topstitchtheheminplace.

15.attachthehookandeyeHand-sewthehookandeyetothewrongsideoftheband,abovethezipper,followingthedirectionsonthepackage.

NothingmakesmefeelmoreathomeinmyspacethansurroundingmyselfwiththingsI’vemade.Afewhandmadetouchesareallittakestomakeyournestdivine.

WillyoubelievemewhenItellyouthatyoudon’thavetobeanexpertsewertomakeit

happen?That’sright—beautiful,handmadedecorisaseasyasafewstraightseams.

Ifyou’vegotaho-humroomthatneedssomeflair,thequickestandeasiestwaytobringit

tolifeistosewafewaccessories.Ifyou’reabeginner,Irecommendstartingwith

CustomizedCurtains,TwoWays,foralookattwogreatbasiccurtainstyles.OrtryyourhandattheWorld’sEasiestZipperedThrowPillow—youwon’tbelievehoweasyitisto

installazipperusingmymethod.Andforasuper-quickdoseofdiydecor,don’tmissthe15-MinuteShams.

Withafewsimpleskillsunderyourbelt,youcantrytheClutter-BustingBucketTotetocorralclutter,theMake-It-Your-WayOttomanCovertolearnthebasicsofmakingslipcovers,

ortheDIYDuvetCovertoaddsomeflairtoyourbed.Tome,aquiltistheultimateinhomeystyle,andthischapterwillwalkyouthroughthestepsofsewingapatchwork

masterpiece.Quiltingmayseemchallenging,butyoucanmakeamazingquiltsusingonlybasicskillsbychoosingboldbutsimpledesigns,likethePixelatedThrowandtheWonky

DiamondsOnPointquilt.(Thelatterisnotforthefaintofheart,butthestunningresultsare

worththeeffort!)

Everythinginthischapterisdesignedtobeastatementpiece,andyoucanpersonalize

eachprojectbycustomizingitwithyourfabricchoices.Createaboldlookbychoosingaloudprint,orgoquieterwitharangeofcoordinatingsolids.Trytakingariskandbreaking

outofmatchy-matchymode,bymixinggroupsoffabricswithsimilarcolorpalettesor

themes.

Sodon’tbeafraidtoexperimentandtrynewlookswithyourdecor.That’sthebeautyofknowinghowtomakeityourself!

CustomizedCurtains,TwoWays

customizedcurtains,twoways

Needtowakeupaboringroom?It’seasy—whipupsomecurtains!Evencompletebeginnerscantacklethisproject;thesedrapestakeonlyanafternoontosewandtheytrulytransformahouseintoahome.Inthispattern,I’llshowyouhowtomaketwotypesofcurtains:abasiccurtainpanelwithaball-fringetrimandalinedtabcurtain,bothofwhichcanbemadetofitanywindow.Addafabricyoulove,andyou’llhavecustomdecorinaflash.finisheddimensionsSizedtofityourwindowofchoice

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Curtainrod*Forbasiccurtainpanelwithballfringe:Fabricofyourchoice(determinetheamountyou’llneedinStep1)Lengthofballfringesufficienttocoverthewidthofyourcurtainpanels*Forlinedtabcurtainpanel:

Fabricofyourchoice(determinetheamountyou’llneedinStep1)Liningfabric(determinetheamountyou’llneedinStep1)

note

Thispatternmakesarodpocketthatfitsaslimcurtainrod(suchasatensionrod).Ifyouareusingathickercurtainrod,youmayneedtomakeadeeperpocket.Measurethediameterofyourrod,andaddthatextralengthtoyourfabric.

curtainpanelwithballfringe

1.measure+cutCURTAINPANEL:Measurethewidthofyourwindow(A).(Ifyourcurtainrodhangsoutsidethewindow,measurefromtheendsofthecurtainrod.)Next,measurethedistancefromthecurtainrodtothepointwhereyou’dlikethebottomofthecurtaintohang(B).

Determinehowgatheredyouwouldlikeyourcurtaintobe(C).(Foratypicalamountofgathering,doublemeasurementA.)

Add4"(10cm)tomeasurementC;thisisthewidthyouwillneedtocutyourfabric.

Add10½"(26.5cm)tomeasurementB;thisisthelengthyouwillneedtocutyourfabric.

Cutyourfabrictotheabovedimensions(seeCuttingLargeFabricPiecessidebar).

2.hemthebottomedgeTurnunderthebottomedgeofthecurtain4"(10cm)andpress.(FIGURE1)Turnupanother4"(10cm)andpressagain.(FIGURE2)Topstitchclosetotheupperfoldededge.(FIGURE3)

3.hemthesidesTurnunderonesideedge1"(2.5cm)andpress.(FIGURE4)Turnitunderanother1"(2.5cm)andpress.(FIGURE5)Topstitchclosetotheinnerfoldededge.(FIGURE6)Repeatforthe

remainingsideofthecurtain.

4.makethepocketforthecurtainrodTurnundertheremaining(top)rawedge½"(13mm)andpress.Turnitunderanother2"(5cm)andpressagain.Topstitchclosetotheinnerfoldededge.(FIGURE7)

5.attachtrimPintheballfringealongthehemmededgeofthecurtain,turningunderitsrawedge½"(13mm).Sewitinplaceusingazigzagstitchandthreadtomatchthetrim.

linedtabcurtain

1.measure+cutCURTAINPANELANDLINING:MeasurefollowingthedirectionsinStep1formeasurementsA,B,andC.

Add1"(2.5cm)tomeasurementCtodeterminethewidthyouwillneedtocutyourfabric.

Add8½"(21.5cm)tomeasurementBtodeterminethelengthyouwillneedtocutyourfabric.

Cutonepaneltothesedimensionsfromyourcurtainfabric,andanotherpanelthesamesizefromyourliningfabric.

FORTHETABS:Determinehowmanytabs,spaced10–12"(25.5–30.5cm)apart,willfitonyourcurtainpanel.Cutthisnumberof9"×6"(23cm×15cm)tabpiecesfromyourcurtainfabric.

2.sewthetabsFoldeachtabpieceinhalflengthwisewithrightsidestogether,aligningthe9"(23cm)edges;pininplace.Sewalongtheraw9"(23cm)edgesusinga½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE8)

Turnthetabrightsideoutandpress.Repeattomakeallthetabs.

3.hemthebottomedgesHemthebottomedgesofthecurtainandliningpiece,followingStep2.

4.assemblethetabs,lining,andfrontPlacetheliningonthefloororworksurfacewiththerightsidefacingup.Foldthetabsinhalfwithshortendstogether,thenpositionthemonthetopedgeofthelining,spacedevenlyapart,aligningtherawendsofthetabswiththerawedgeofthelining.Placethecurtainpanel,rightsidedown,ontopofthetabsandlining,sandwichingthetabsbetweenthecurtainpanelandthelining,aligningtherawedgeofthecurtainpanelwiththerawedgesoftheliningandtabs.(FIGURE9)Pinallthelayerstogether,butleavethehemmededges(bottom)unpinned.Makesureallrawedgesareperfectlyalignedsothecurtainwillhangstraight.Usinga½"(13mm)seamallowance,sewallthelayerstogetheraround3sides,leavingthehemmededgesopen.

Trimtheseamallowanceatthecornersandturnrightsideout.Useapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners.Press.Topstitcharound3sides(againleavingthehemmededgeopen),stitchingclosetotheedge.(FIGURE10)

World’sEasiestZipperedThrowPillow

world’seasiestzipperedthrowpillow

Ifyouhaveafearofinstallingzippers,thisprojectisforyou.Giveitatry,andIpromiseyou’llsoonbesewingazipperintoeverythinginsight!Infact,thispillowcoverissoeasytomake,youmightfindyourselfre-coveringyourthrowpillowseveryseason,oreverytimeyoufindyourselfinthemoodforalittledecorchange.It’sreallythateasy!supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Approximately1yard(91cm)fabricofyourchoice(seeStep1todeterminetheexactamountoffabricyou’llneed)*Zipper,4"(10cm)shorterthanthewidthofyourpillow*Pillowform,desiredsize

1.measure+cutCut2fabricpiecestheexactdimensionsofyourpillowform.(Youdonotneedaseamallowance;thispillowcoverisslightlysmallerthanyourform,whichwillcreateaplumpfinishedpillow.)

2.installthezipperPOSITIONANDPINTHEZIPPER:Onaflatsurface,placethe2piecesoffabricrightsidestogetherwithrawedgesaligned.Centerthezipperononesideedge.Markthezipperplacementbyinsertingapininthefabricateachendofthezipper,justinsidethecaps.Putthezipperasidefornow.

Sewthe2layersoffabrictogetherfromthefirstcornertothefirstpinwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Backstitch,andchangetoabastingstitch.Basteuntilyoureachthenextpin,thenbackstitch,changetoanormalstitchlength,andsewtothecorner.(FIGURE1)

SEWTHEZIPPER:Presstheseamallowanceopen.Withthewrongsideofthefabricfacingup,alignthezipperoverthebastedportionoftheseam.Pinitinplace.(FIGURE2)

Attachazipperfoottoyourmachine.Beginningatoneendofthezipper,sewuponesideofthezipper,pivotandsewacrossthezipper,pivotandsewbackdowntheotherside,thenpivottosewacrossthezipperagain.(FIGURE2)Formoreinformationoninstallingazipper,seetheDon’tFeartheZippersidebar.

Workingontherightsideofthepillow,useaseamrippertogentlyremovethebastingstitchesandexposethezipper.

3.sewthepillowcoverUnzipthezipper,andfoldthepillowinhalf,rightsidestogether,atthezipperseamsothattheremaining3rawedgesarealigned;pin.Sewaroundall3sideswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE3)

Trimthecorners(FIGURE3),andturnthepillowcoverrightsideoutthroughthezipperopening.Usingapointytool,gentlypushouteachcorner.Pressthecornersandseams.Insertyourpillowformandclosethezipper.

DON’TFEARTHEZIPPER

Installingzippersstrikesterrorintotheheartsofmanysewers,eventhosewhoaren’tbeginners.Butpeople,I’mheretotellyou:Theonlythingyouhavetofearisfearitself.Zippersreallyareeasytodo.They’requick,andtheycanbequitepainless—

especiallyusingmyfavoritemethod,whichworkswheneveryouareinstallingastandardzipperonaseam,likeinthispillowcover.(Makesureyou’reusingastandardzipper,notan“invisible”zipper,whichrequiresadifferentinstallationmethod.)Here’showtodoit.

1.Determinewhereonyourseamyouwillplaceyourzipper,andbastethisportionoftheseamclosed.Sewtheremainderoftheseamwitharegularstitch.

2.Pinthezipperrightsidedownonthewrongsideoftheseam,centeringthezipperteethoverthebastedportionoftheseam.

3. Load yourmachinewith a zipper foot. Beginning at the top of the zipper, sewdownonesideofthezipper.Whenyoureachtheendofthezipper(justbelowthemetalcapholdingtheteeth),pivotandsewacrossthezipperwidth,thenpivotandsew up the other side of the zipper. If you’re making a garment or other itemwherethetopofthezipperwillbeopen,stophere. Ifyou’remakingapilloworotheritemwherethefabricabovethezipperisclosed:Whenyoureachthetopofthezipper(justabovethezipperpull),pivottosewacrossthewidthofthezipperagain, ending when you reach the point where you began stitching, creating acompleterectangleofstitching.Backstitchtosecure.

4.Workingontherightsideofthefabric,carefullyremovethebastingstitcheswitha seam ripper, and you’re done! Enjoy your beautiful zipper, which is nearlyinvisibleinsidetheseam.

15-MinuteShams

15-minuteshams

Allittakesisoneyardoffabricandsomecutetrimtowhipupthesequickandeasyshams.Frenchseamsmakethemfullyfinishedontheinsideandoutside,forsuper-professionalresults.finisheddimensionsLENGTH:35"(89cm)WIDTH:17½"(44.5cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Foronesham:

1yard(91cm)medium-weightcotton1½yard(1.4m)trim

1.measure+cutForeachpillowsham,cutarectangle36"×41"(91cm×104cm).

2.sewthehemTurnunderoneofthe41"(104cm)edges½"(2.5cm)andpress.Turnthatedgeunderagain5"(12.5cm)andpress.Topstitch,sewingclosetotheinnerfoldededge.

3.sewthesideseamsFoldthepieceinhalfwithwrongsidestogether,aligningthehemmededgewithitselfandmatchingthe36"(91cm)rawedges.Sewthelongsidewitha¼"(6mm)Frenchseam.Next,sewtheremainingshortedgewitha¼"(6mm)Frenchseam.

Turnthecaserightsideoutandpress.

4.attachtrimUsingahand-sewingneedle,stitchthetrimtotheshamparalleltothehemmededgeofthesham,about1"(2.5cm)fromtheedge.

Make-It-Your-WayOttomanCover

make-it-your-wayottomancover

AddsomepoptoyourlivingroomandturnanoutdatedottomanintosomethingsnazzywithasimpleDIYslipcover.Thispatternshowsyouhowtomakeacustomcoverthat’sguaranteedtofitanyottomanlikeaglove.Notanottomanperson?Youcanalsousethispatterntocraftacoverforanyboxyitem,fromapetcratetoanoutdoorgrill.

finisheddimensionsSizedtofitanysquareorrectangularobject

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Fabric(calculateyardageneededinStep1)

fabricsuggestionsHeavydecorator-weight cottons, canvas, duck cloth,microsuede, andupholstery fabrics are all great choices for thisproject.Oilclothoroutdoorfabricsaregoodchoicesformakinganindoor-outdooritemlikeagrillcover.Lightweightfabricsarenotrecommended.

note

This project is sewn with½" (13mm) seam allowances throughout. Normally youwould add 1" (2.5cm) to the totalwidth to allow for the seam allowance on bothsidesofeachpanel,butI’vedesignedthiscoverwithaslightamountofnegativeeasetokeepthefitsnug,soI’monlycallingforanadditional¾"(2cm).

1.measure+cutTOPANDSIDEPANELS:Measurethetopandsidesofyourottoman.Forthetoppanel:Add¾"(2cm)tothelengthandwidthforseamallowances.Forthesidepanels:Add¾"(2cm)tothewidthofeachsidepieceandadd2"(5cm)totheheightofeachpieceforseamallowancesandhem.

Cut4sidepanelsandonetoppaneltothedimensionsyoucalculatedabove.

2.sewthesideseamsofthesidepanelsStartingfromthetopofeachsidepanelandwithrightsidestogether,pinthenseweachofthe4sidepanelpiecestogetherusing½"(13mm)seamallowances,formingatube(FIGURE1).(Besureyouarejoiningthelength-measurementsides).Begineachseam½"(13mm)fromeachtopcorner,andbackstitchtoreinforceatthebeginningandendofeachseam.(FIGURE1INSET)

Turnthejoinedpiecerightsideoutandslipitovertheottomantocheckforfit;itshouldfitsnuglybutnotsotightthatthefabricispulling.Ifnecessary,adjustbylettingoutortakingintheseams.Presstheseamsflat.

3.attachthetop

Turnthejoinedsidepanels(madeinStep2)insideout.Withrightsidestogether,pinonesideofthetoppaneltotheedgeofonesidepanel.Sewthemtogether,beginningandendingtheseam½"(13mm)fromeachcorner,backstitchingtoreinforceatthebeginningandendofeachseam.(FIGURE2)

Repeatfortheremaining3sides,sewingonesideatatime,andtakingcaretosmooththetopflatasyoupin.

4.checkthefitTurnthecoverrightsideoutandslipitovertheottomantocheckthefit,asyoudidin

Step2.Adjustanyseamsasnecessary.Whilethecoverisontheottoman,turnunderthebottomhem1½"(3.8cm)andpininplace.Ifanyshiftinghasoccurredduringsewingandthebottomedgesareatalluneven,adjustforitnowbypinningthehemsothatthebottomedgeisevenandfallsjustabovethefloor.

5.clipthecornersTurnthecoverinsideoutagainandclipallthecornerseamallowances.Usingapointytool,gentlypushouteachcorner.Pressallseamsflat.

6.hemPressthehem(whichyouturnedunderinStep4),turningundertherawedge½"(13mm)asyoupress.Topstitchalongtheupperfoldededge.Pressthetopstitching.

DIYDuvetCover

diyduvetcover

Whysettleforaboringstore-boughtduvetwhenyoucanmakeoneyourselfthat’smuchcuter?Inthisdesign,I’vehighlightedauniquefabricpanel,whichlooksgreatspanningthecenterofthispiece.Scourthefabricshopsforapanelprintyoulove,orsimplyarrangehorizontalstripsoffabricinanycombinationforaresultthat’sallyou.finisheddimensionsSizedtofityourduvetofchoice

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*3yards(2.7m)patternedfabric(forfrontcenterpanel)*3yards(2.7m)each:2coordinatingfabric(forfronttopandbottomstrips)*1yard(91cm)contrastingfabric(forfrontthinaccentstrips)*6yards(5.5m)coordinatingfabric(forback)*¾"(2cm)buttons(determinehowmanyyou’llneedinStep6)

fabricsuggestionsQuiltingcottonsareperfectforthisproject.Theyarejusttherightweight,andcomeinawidearrayofcolors.

note

The yardages listed are for a full/queen bed; for other sizes, calculate the exactamountoffabricyou’llneedinStep1.

1.measure+cutRefertoFIGURE1.

Becausethesizeofduvetsvariesbymanufacturer,I’vewrittenthispatternsoyoucancustomizeittotheexactsizeofyourduvet.Measureyourduvetbeforebeginning:MeasurementAisthewidthofyourduvetplus1"(2.5cm);measurementBisthelengthofyourduvet.

CENTERPANEL:Cut1pieceofpatternedfabricthelengthofmeasurementA,andaswideasyourfabricwiththeselvageedgescutoff.

THINACCENTSTRIPS:Cut6stripsoffabric,each36"(91cm)longand2"(5cm)wide.

TOPANDBOTTOMSTRIPS:SubtractthewidthofyourcenterpanelfrommeasurementBandadd3½"(9cm).DividethisnumberinhalfformeasurementC.

Cut2piecesoffabricthatareaslongasmeasurementAandaswideasmeasurementC.

BACK:Cut2stripsoffabricthatareaslongasmeasurementBplus3½"(9cm),andaswideashalfmeasurementA.

2.assemblethethinaccentstripsPinthensew3ofthethinaccentstripstogetheralongtheshortedgesusing¼"(6mm)Frenchseams.Repeattojointheremaining3strips.TrimbothstripssothattheyareaslongasmeasurementA.(FIGURE1)

3.assemblethefrontandbackPinthensewtogetherallofthestripsforthefrontusing¼"(6mm)Frenchseams.(Notethattheseamswillrunhorizontallyonthefrontoftheduvet.)

Pinthensewtogetherthe2stripsforthebackusing¼"(6mm)Frenchseams.(Notethattheseamwillrunverticallyonthebackoftheduvet.)

4.hemthefrontandbackHemthebottomedgeofthefrontandthebackasfollows:Turnundertherawedge1½"(3.8cm)andpress.Turnunderanother1½"(3.8cm)andpress.Topstitchclosetobothfoldededges.(FIGURE2)

5.attachthefrontandback

Pinthefronttothebackwithwrongsidestogetherandalledgesaligned.Firstsewthesideseamswith¼"(6mm)Frenchseams,thensewthetopseamwitha¼"(6mm)Frenchseam.(FIGURE3)

Turnthepiecerightsideout.Press.

6.makebuttonholesandattachbuttonsOnthehemofthefrontoftheduvetcover,markthedesiredplacementforyourbuttonholes,spacingthemabout9"(23cm)apartandcenteredwithinthehemallowance.Makehorizontalbuttonholes,referringtoyoursewingmachinemanualforinstructions.(FIGURE4)

Closetheduvetandmarktheplacementforbuttonsonthehemofthebackoftheduvetcoverbymarkingthrougheachbuttonhole.Sewabuttontoeachmark.

Clutter-BustingBucketTote

clutter-bustingbuckettote

Cluttergotyoudown?Corralhouseholdoddsandendswiththisroomycontainer.Iusemineforyarn,butit’salsogreatfortoys,magazines,andgeneraljunk.Onceyouunderstandthebasicconstructionofthispieceyou’llfinditeasytocustomizethispatterntomakeatoteinanysize,foranythingyouneed!finisheddimensionsHEIGHT:9½"(24cm)excludinghandlesDIAMETER:9½"(24cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*1yard(91cm)heavyweightfabric,suchascanvas(forexterior)*1yard(91cm)medium-weightfabric(forlining)*1yard(91cm)heavyinterfacing*Corrugatedplasticorplasticcanvas,atleast6¾"×7½"(17cm×19cm)*Hotgluegun

1.measure+cutBODYANDLINING:Measurearectanglethatis16"×15"(40.5cm×38cm).Cut2piecesfromtheexteriorfabric,2fromtheliningfabric,and4fromtheinterfacing.

Orienteachpiecesothe16"(40.5cm)edgesarethetopandbottom.Cuta4"(10cm)squarefromthe2bottomcornersofeachpiece.

STRAPS:Measurearectanglethatis11"×2¼"(28cm×5.5cm).Cut2fromtheexteriorfabricand2fromtheliningfabric.

PLASTICBOTTOMLINER(BASE):Measureandcuta6¾"×7½"(17cm×19cm)rectanglefromthecorrugatedplastic.(FIGURE1)

2.makethestraps

Oneachstrappiece(2exteriorfabric,2lining),turnunderonelong(11"[28cm])edge½"(13mm),andpress.Pinoneexterior-fabricstrappiecetoonelining-fabricstrappiecewithrightsidestogetherandrawandfoldededgesaligned.Sewthepiecestogetheralongtheunfolded11"(28cm)edge,usinga½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE2)

Foldthepieceinhalfalongtheseamwithwrongsidestogetherandpressonthefold(rememberthattheother11"[28cm]edgeswerealreadyfoldedandpressed).Topstitchalongeach11"(28cm)side,stitchingclosetotheedges.(FIGURE3)

3.assemblethebodyandliningFuseapieceofinterfacingtobothoftheexteriorbodyfabricpiecesandbothliningpieces.

Pinthe2exteriorbodypieceswithrightsidestogetherandalledgeseven.Sewthe2sideseamsandthebottomseamusinga½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE4)Presstheseamallowancesopen.

TOMAKETHECORNERSontheexteriorofthetote,foldthepiece,rightsidestogether,sothatthesideandbottomseamsmeet;pin.Sewwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE5)Trimthecorners,turnrightsideout,andpresstheseams.

RepeatStep3toassemblethelininginthesameway.

4.attachthebottom(base)

Placethe6¾"×7½"(17cm×19cm)plasticbottomlinerinsidethebottomofthetotebodyexterior,slippingitundertheseamallowances.Usingahotgluegun,gluetheseamallowancestotheplastic(tokeeptheplasticfromshiftinglater).

5.attachthestrapsPositionandpintherightsidesofthestrapstotherightsideofthetotebodyexterior,(theliningsideofthestrapswillfaceout).Positioneachendofthestraps2"(5cm)fromthesideseams,andaligntherawedgesofthestrapswiththerawedgesofthetotebody.Sewthestrapsinplacewitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE6)

6.finishthetoteTurnundertherawedgeoftheexterior½"(13mm)andpress.Turnundertherawedgeofthelining½"(13mm)andpress.Withthebodyexteriorrightsideoutandtheliningwrongsideout,placethelininginsidetheexterior,aligningthefoldedtopedges(thestrapswillbestickingupandsandwichedbetweentheexteriorandliningfabrics).Pinthepiecestogether.Loadyourmachinewithaheavy-dutyneedleandtopstitchtheexteriorandliningtogether,stitchingclosetothefoldedtopedgesallthewayaround.(FIGURE7)

PixelatedThrow

pixelatedthrow

Staggeredstripsandwonkysquarescreateabold,graphiclookinthisquiltthatremindsmeofaneighties-eravideogame.Ithinkthatmakesitaperfectchoiceforthegeeksandguysinyourlife—whosaysquiltshavetobegirly?(Although,ifyoustitchedthisinasoftercolorpalette,itwouldtakeonamuchfairerlook.)Apatchworkbackmeansit’sreversibletoo,sonomatterwhichwayyouthrowit,thisquiltwilllookgreat!

finisheddimensionsWIDTH:Approximately42"(106.5cm)LENGTH:Approximately64"(163cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*2½yards(2.3m)medium-weightcottonofeachcolor(forbackgroundandbinding):lightgray,darkgray*1yard(91cm)orangemedium-weightcotton*½yard(46cm)mediumyellowmedium-weightcotton*¼yard(23cm)medium-weightcottonofeachcolor:red,lightyellow,darkyellow*2yards(1.8m)complementarygrayprintfabricforquiltback*70"×50"(178cm×127cm)piecemedium-loftcottonbatting

note

The tiny squareson thisquilthaveanoff-kilter,wonkyconstruction.For technicalease,Igivemeasurementsthatmakeperfectsquaresratherthanwonkyones.Forthewonkylook,cutthesmallsquareslargerthanthesizesgiven(about1"[2.5cm]onallsides), then sew your seams off-kilter. Some pieces may end up larger than thedimensionsgivenhere;whenassemblingthestrips,justtrimanylargepiecestothecorrectsizeforpiecingtotheirneighbors.Becausethisquilthasanabstractquality,itwon’tmatterifyourelementsareslightlydifferentfromthepattern.Havefunwithit!

1.measure+cutReferringtoFIGURE1andFIGURE2,cuteachnumberedpiecetothemeasurementsgivenbelow(horizontal×vertical)fromtheindicatedfabriccolor.

quiltfront

1.darkgray,42"×3"(106.5cm×7.5cm)2.darkgray,6¾"×3"(17cm×7.5cm)3.red,3"×3"(7.5cm×7.5cm)4.darkgray,33½×3"(85cm×7.5cm)5.darkgray,27"×3½"(68.5cm×9cm)6.mediumyellow,2½"×2"(6.5cm×5cm)7.darkgray,2½"×2"(6.5cm×5cm)8.darkgray,13½"×3½"(34.5cm×9cm)9.darkgray,11"×3"(28cm×7.5cm)10.red,3"×3"(7.5cm×7.5cm)11.darkgray,29"×3"(74cm×7.5cm)12.darkgray,42"×2½"(106.5cm×6.5cm)

13.darkgray,4½"×3½"(11.5cm×9cm)14.darkyellow,2½"×2½"(6.5cm×6.5cm)15.darkgray,2½"×2"(6.5cm×5cm)16.darkgray,2½"×3½"(6.5cm×9cm)17.darkgray,1"×2"(2.5cm×5cm)18.orange,3"×2"(7.5cm×5cm)19.darkgray,3½"×3½"(9cm×9cm)20.mediumyellow,2½"×3½"(6.5cm×9cm)21.darkgray,27½"×3½"(70cm×9cm)22.darkgray,42"×3"(106.5cm×7.5cm)23.darkgray,7"×2½"(18cm×6.5cm)24.lightyellow,3½"×2½"(9cm×6.5cm)25.darkgray,3"×2½"(7.5cm×6.5cm)26.darkgray,2"×1"(5cm×2.5cm)27.mediumyellow,2½"×2"(6.5cm×5cm)28.darkgray,28½"×2½"(72cm×6.5cm)29.darkgray,42"×2½"(106.5cm×6.5cm)30.darkgray,19½"×4½"(49.5cm×11.5cm)31.lightyellow,23"×4½"(58.5cm×11.5cm)32.mediumyellow,25"×5"(63.5cm×12.5cm)33.lightgray,17½"×5"(44.5cm×12.5cm)34.darkgray,6½"×3½"(16.5cm×9cm)35.lightyellow,11"×3½"(28cm×9cm)36.darkyellow,25½"×3½×"(65cm×9cm)37.mediumyellow,10"×4"(25.5cm×10cm)38.lightyellow,24½"×4"(62cm×10cm)39.lightgray,8½"×4"(21.5cm×10cm)40.lightgray,17½"×2½"(44.5cm×6.5cm)41.orange,25"×2½"(63.5cm×6.5cm)42.lightgray,42"×2½"(106.5cm×6.5cm)43.lightgray,15"×4"(38cm×10cm)44.lightgray,2"×2"(5cm×5cm)45.orange,2"×2½"(5cm×6.5cm)46.lightgray,10"×4"(25.5cm×10cm)47.lightyellow,16½"×4"(42cm×10cm)48.lightgray,42"×3"(106.5cm×7.5cm)49.lightgray,11"×4"(28cm×10cm)50.lightgray,2"×2"(5cm×5cm)51.red,2"×2½"(5cm×6.5cm)52.lightgray,6"×4"(15cm×10cm)53.lightgray,3"×1½"(7.5cm×3.8cm)54.orange,3"×2½"(7.5cm×6.5cm)55.lightgray,3"×1"(7.5cm×2.5cm)56.lightgray,3"×4"(7.5cm×10cm)

57.orange,20½"×4"(52cm×10cm)58.lightgray,42"×3"(106.5cm×7.5cm)59.lightgray,24½"×2½"(62cm×6.5cm)60.darkyellow,2½"×2½"(6.5cm×6.5cm)61.lightgray,4"×2½"(10cm×6.5cm)62.lightgray,2½"×1"(6.5cm×2.5cm)63.orange,2½"×2"(6.5cm×5cm)64.lightgray,10½"×2½"(26.5cm×6.5cm)65.lightgray,42"×2"(106.5cm×5cm)66.lightgray,14½"×2½"(37cm×6.5cm)67.mediumyellow,3"×2½"(7.5cm×6.5cm)68.lightgray,15"×2½"(38cm×6.5cm)69.mediumyellow,2½"×2½"(6.5cm×6.5cm)70.lightgray,9"×2½"(23cm×6.5cm)71.lightgray,34"×3"(86cm×7.5cm)72.red,3"×3"(7.5cm×7.5cm)73.lightgray,6"×3"(15cm×7.5cm)74.lightgray,42"×3"(106.5cm×7.5cm)

quiltback

75.grayprint,20"×70"(51cm×178cm)76.mediumyellow,10½"×18"(26.5cm×45.5cm)77.orange,10½"×27½"(26.5cm×70cm)78.red,10½"×6"(26.5cm×15cm)79.orange,10½"×20"(26.5cm×51cm)80.grayprint,20"×70"(51cm×178cm)

2.assemblestripsforthequiltfrontAssembleeachhorizontalstripforthequiltfrontasshownintheQuiltFrontdiagram.(FIGURE1)Ifthestripcontainsapiecedsquare,sewthatfirstandthenjoinittoitsneighboringstrips.Sewallthepieceswithrightsidestogether,usinga¼"(6mm)seamallowance.(Ifyouaresewingwonkylinesasdescribedinthenote,youwilluselargerseamallowances.)Pressalltheseamallowancestooneside,facingthesamedirection.

Onceallthehorizontalstripsarecomplete, jointhestripstoeachothervertically.Withrightsidestogether,pinthensewwith¼"(6mm)seamallowances.Pressalltheseamstooneside,facinginthesamedirection.

3.squarethequilttopIfyoudecidedtogothewonkyroute,yourquilt’ssidesmaynotbeperfectlyeven.Tosquareupyourquilttop,useastraightedgeandarotarycutterorscissorstotrimthesidesofthequilttomakeallsidesevenandall4cornersrightangles.

4.assemblestripsforthequiltbackRefertoFIGURE2.Assembletheverticalbackcenterstrip,pinningthensewingthepieceswithrightsidestogetherandusing¼"(6mm)seamallowances.Pressalltheseamallowancestooneside,facinginthesamedirection.Pinthensewoneofthegraysidestripstoeachlongsideofthecenterstrip,using¼"(6mm)seamallowances.Presstheseamallowancestooneside,facinginthesamedirection.

5.layerandbastethequiltPlacetheassembledquiltbackonafloororworksurfacewiththewrongsidefacingup.Layerthebattingontopofit,beingsuretosmoothoutanywrinkles.Centerthequiltfrontoverthebatting,withtherightsideofquiltfrontfacingup.Thefrontwillbesmallerthanthebattingandquiltback).

Usingahand-sewingneedleandthread,basteall3layersofthequilttogetherusinglongrunningstitches(approximately3"[7.5cm]long),placedapproximately6"(15cm)apart.Alternatively,youcanpinthelayerstogetherwithsafetypins.

6.quiltthequiltWithaneutralcolorthread(Iusedwhite),sewquiltinglineshorizontallyacrossthequilt,slantingorcrisscrossingthelinesrandomly.

7.finishTrimthequiltbackandbattingsotheedgesareevenwiththequiltfront.

8.bindthequiltRefertotheseinstructionstomakeandattachthequiltbindingtofinishtherawedges.

Optional:Ifyoulike,makea2-tonedbindingsothatthelightgrayportionofthequiltgetsalightgraybinding,andthedarkgraygetsadarkgraybinding.Todothis,attachonecolorbindingfirst,startingandstoppingabout12"(30.5cm)insidethepointwherethecolorschange.Jointhesecondcolorbindingtothefirst,aligningthejoinwiththepointonthequilttopwherethecolorschange,thencontinueattachingthebinding.

tip

Fliptohereforlotsmoreinfoonlayering,basting,binding,andquiltingyourquilt.

WonkyDiamondsonPoint

wonkydiamondsonpoint

Whenitcomestoquilts,Ilovebrightcolorssetonneutralbackgrounds,withlotsofcrazylines.Inthisdesign,Iwantedtosetdiamondsonthediagonal,whichcallsforprecision,yetIgotmycrazyfixbyaddingawonkycentertoeachdiamondpiece.Theresultisaquiltthatcombinesalittlebitofeverything,andwhileitonlyrequiresstraight-linesewing,theconstructionoffersabitofachallenge—forthosewholikethatsortofthing!

finisheddimensionsWIDTH:81"(205.5cm)LENGTH:90"(229cm)(fitsadouble/queenbed)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*¼yard(23cm)each:

10patternedfabrics(fordiamondcenters)20coordinatingsolidfabrics(fordiamonds)*6yards(5.5m)whitefabric*6yards(5.5m)coordinatingsolidorpatternedfabric(forquiltback)*5largesheetsofcardstockfortemplates,eachmeasuringatleast15"×12"(38cm×30.5cm)*87"×96"(221cm×244cm)piecemedium-loftcottonbatting

fabricsuggestions

Quiltingcottonsareperfectforthisproject.Theyarejusttherightweight,andcomeinawidearrayofcolors.

1.measure+cutNOTE:Toavoidconfusion,labelthefabricpiecesasyoucutthem.

TEMPLATES:Usingthesetemplates,enlargethem200%andtransfertheenlargedtemplatesontocardstock,andcutthemout.Transferalltemplatemarkingstoyourcardstocktemplates.

FABRIC:Besuretocutyourfabricintheorderlistedbelow.(Thiswillensureyou’llhaveenoughfabrictocutthelongestpieces.)

TOP/BOTTOMBORDERS:Fromthewhitefabric,cuttwo8"×81"(20.5cm×205.5cm)rectangles.

SIDEBORDERS:Fromthewhitefabric,cuttwo11"×74"(28cm×188cm)rectangles.

LONGSASHING(NOTEMPLATE):Fromthewhitefabric,cutthefollowingstrips:

LongSashingX:Two3½"×40"(9cm×101.5cm)strips

LongSashingY:Two3½"×65"(9cm×165cm)strips

LongSashingZ:Two3½"×85"(9cm×216cm)strips

SHORTSASHING:Fromthewhitefabric,cut30piecesofshortsashing,usingtheShortSashingtemplate.

BORDERTRIANGLESA:Cut2fromtherightsideand2fromthewrongsideofthewhitefabric,usingtheBorderTriangleAtemplate.

BORDERTRIANGLESB:Cut6fromthewhitefabric,usingtheBorderTriangleBtemplate.

BORDERTRIANGLESC:Cut4fromthewhitefabricusingtheBorderTriangleCtemplate.

WONKYDIAMONDCENTERS(NOTEMPLATE):Fromtheassortedpatternedfabrics,cut25centersquares,eachmeasuring5"×5"(12.5cm×12.5cm).Thesearethecenterofthediamonds,whichwillbeattachedtothesoliddiamondborders.

WONKYDIAMONDBORDERSDANDE(NOTEMPLATE):Fromtheassortedsolids,cutfifty5"×5"(12.5cm×12.5cm)pieces(D)andfifty5"×10"(12.5cm×25.5cm)pieces(E).Thesearethesolidportionofthediamonds,whichwillbeattachedtothediamondcenters.

QUILTBACK:Cuttwo44"×96"pieces(112cm×244cm)fromthequiltbackfabric.

2.make25wonkydiamondblocksSincethediamondsaresewnwithwonkyseams,youdon’tneedtoworryaboutsewingeachoneperfectly.

Withrightsidestogether,pinonerawedgeofaWonkyDiamondBorderDtoonerawedgeofaWonkyDiamondCenter.Togetthewonkyeffect,sewthepiecesunevenlyusingoneofthesemethods:1)Placetherawedgesslightlyaskewandthensewastraight,evenseam(seamallowanceswillvaryaccordingtoyourwonkiness),or2)Matchtherawedgesevenlybutvaryyourseamallowancefromwidertonarrowerasyousew.(FIGURE1)

RepeattoattachanotherWonkyDiamondBorderDtotheoppositesideoftheWonkyDiamondCenter.(FIGURE2)Trimtheseamallowancesto¼"(6mm),andpressthemtooneside.(Ifonefabricislighterincolor,presstheseamallowancetowardthedarkerfabrictopreventthedarkerallowanceshowingthroughthelighterfabric.)

SewaWonkyDiamondBorderEtoeachofthelongrawedgesofthediamondpieceyouconstructedabove,againsewingawonkyseam.Trimtheseamallowancesto¼"(6mm),andpresstheminonedirection.(FIGURE3)

Next,trimtheresultingpiecetothecorrectsizeusingtheDiamondtemplate.PlacetheDiamondtemplateoverthejoineddiamondpiece,situatingthe(fabric)diamondcenterapproximatelyinthecenterofthetemplate.Usingarotarycutterandstraightedge,trimthediamondsothatalledgesareevenwiththetemplate.(FIGURE4)Theresultingpieceisonefinisheddiamond.(FIGURE5)

TransferallcornerdotsfromtheDiamondTemplatetothefinisheddiamondblock.Repeattocreateall25diamondblocks.

3.arrangediamondblocksArrangethe25diamondblocksonafloor,bed,orworksurface,placingcolorsasyoudesire.ReferringtoFIGURE6,numbereachdiamondaccordingtoitsplacementsoyoudon’tlosetrackofthelayoutonceyoustartsewing.(Ifinditeasiesttowritethenumberonasmallscrapofpaperandpinittothediamond.)

4.assemblethe7stripsNOTE:Fortheremainderofthisquilt’sconstruction,theseamsshouldbesewnstraightandeven,notwonky.Alwayssewfabricsrightsidestogetherwitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.

RefertoFIGURE6.BeginningwhereindicatedforStrip1,assembletheDiamonds,ShortSashing,andBorderTrianglesinto7strips.Pinpiecestogetherbeforesewingthem,aligningthecornerdots.Fortheanglestoworkoutcorrectly,seweachstripintheorderspecifiedbelow.

SEWSTRIP1INTHISORDER:BorderTriangleC,ShortSashing,Diamond1,ShortSashing,BorderTriangleB.

SEWSTRIP2INTHISORDER:BorderTriangleC,ShortSashing,Diamond2,ShortSashing,Diamond3,ShortSashing,Diamond4,ShortSashing,BorderTriangleB.

SewStrips3–7inthesamemanner,followingtheorderspecifiedabove.Oncethe7stripsareassembled,pressallseamallowancesinthesamedirection.

5.jointhestripswithlongsashing

Onceall7stripsareassembled,jointhemwiththeLongSashingpieces.Beginatthetopleftofthequilt.SituateStrip1facingrightsideup,andalignandpinLongSashingXalongthelongeredgeofStrip1.(Thesashingwillbelongerthanthestrip;centeritsothattheoverhangisequaloneachend).Stitchtheseamandpresstheseamallowancetooneside.

Next,placethejoinedstripandsashingrightsideup,andmarkasfollows:RefertoFIGURE7.Withchalkoradisappearingpen,drawalinefromeachshortsashingseamacrossthelongsashing.Markaline¼"(6mm)infromthelongrawedgeofthelongsashing.Markadotatthespotwheretheselinesintersect.

Alongtheneighboringedgeofthenextstriptobejoined,markadotateachseam¼"(6mm)infromtherawedge.

Placethesetwosectionsrightsidestogether,aligningalldots.Pin,thensew;presstheseamallowancetooneside.

Continuetojoinallstripsinthismanner,usingthelengthoflongsashingindicatedinFIGURE6.Thelongsashingwilloverhangonthesidesofthequilt.Whenallthestripsareassembled,trimthesashingoverhangsothatitisflushwiththerestofthequilttop.

6.addthecornertrianglesPinthensewtheBorderTriangleApiecestothecornersofthequilt,beingsuretoplacetherightside/wrongsidepiecescorrectlyaccordingtoFIGURE6.

7.addtheborderPinthensewan11"×74"(28cm×188cm)sideborderpiecetoeachofthe2sideedgesofthequilttop,using¼"(6mm)seamallowances.Presstheseamallowancestooneside.

Pinthensewan8"×81"(20.5cm×205.5cm)borderpiecetothetopandbottomedgesofthequilt,andpresstheseamallowancestooneside.

8.assemblethequiltbackArrangethetwo44"×96"(112cm×244cm)pieceswithrightsidestogetherandthelongsidesaligned;pin.Sew,andpresstheseamallowancetooneside.

tip

Itcanbedifficulttoquiltlargepieceslikethisonahomesewingmachine.Manypeople choose to send their quilt out to be quilted professionally on a specialquilting machine. Most local quilt shops offer this service or can recommendsomeonewhodoes,soaskatyourlocalshop!

9.layerandquiltPlacethequiltbackonafloororworksurfacewiththewrongsidefacingup.Placethebattingoverthis,smoothingtoremoveanywrinkles.Centerthequilttopoverthis,withtherightsidefacingup.(Thequilttopwillbesmallerthanthequiltbackandbatting.)

Usingahand-sewingneedleandthread,basteall3layersofthequilttogetherusinglongrunningstitches(approximately3"[7.5cm]long),placedapproximately6"(15cm)apart.Alternatively,youcanpinthelayerstogetherwithsafetypins.

Quiltthroughalllayersusingthisphotographasaguide,orinanypatternyoudesire.(Simplediagonalcrisscrossinglineswouldlookgreat,too!)

10.bindthequiltPleaseseeherefordetailedinstructionsonmakingandattachingquiltbinding.Makea

440"(11.2m)lengthofbinding,andattachitasinstructed.

tip

Visitmywebsite,www.brettbara.com,formorehelpfultipsandtricks.

Todownloadprintablecopiesofthetemplates,gotohttp://rhlink.com/ssl001.

Holidays,birthdays,andothergiftingeventsmeanonlyonethingtome:timetogetcrafty!Ilovetogivehandmadepresentswheneverpossible.

Youdon’tneedadvancedskillsortonsoftimetosewagiftthat’strulyspecial.Justabouteverythinginthischaptercanbemadewithbasicskillsandafreeafternoon—allyou

needtocreateamazinggiftstheirrecipientsaresuretolove.

Inthissectionyou’llfindsweet,quickprojectsforeveryoneinyourlife—men,ladies,andlittleones,too.Someoftheprojectsarecrazyeasy,liketheFoldedFlowerBowlsand60-

SecondHello.Onceyou’vemasteredthebasics,moveontotheOn-the-GoJewelryKeeperor

StaggeringStripsBabyQuiltforpresentsthatarejustperfect.

Andifyoulikeabitofachallenge,MisterBunnyandMissKittyareacharmingpairofsoftiesforkidsorkidsatheart,whiletheDenimDopBagisjustrightfortoughguyswhocanbetrickytocraftfor.The9-to-5Folderisgreatforworkfriends,andtheMagicSewing

Kitjustmightgetmyvoteforall-timefavoritecraftygift.

Manyoftheseprojectscanbemadefromfabricleftoversinyourstash,orfromverysmall

amountsofpurchasedfabric.Thatmeansyoudon’thavetospendmuchmoneytogiveagiftthatmeansaton.

Soforperfectpresentsthatarefuntomakeandeasyonyourwallettoo,looknofurther

thantheverynextpage.Let’sgo!

FoldedFlowerBowls

foldedflowerbowls

Canyoubelievetheseroundbowlsaremadewithstraightseams?Asimplesquareturnsintoaflower-likevesselwithalittlenip-tuckatthecorners.Bestofall,eachonetakesmereminutestomake.Tryit—Ibetyoucan’tstitchjustone!

finisheddimensionssmallbowlWIDTH:3¾"(9.5cm)HEIGHT:1¾"(4.5cm)

mediumbowl:WIDTH:5"(13.5cm)HEIGHT:2"(5cm)

largebowl:WIDTH:6"(16cm)HEIGHT:2¼"(5.5cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*¼yard(23cm)eachof4medium-weightfabrics,suchasquiltingcottons,incoordinatingcolors(forsmallandmediumbowls)*⅓yard(30cm)eachof2medium-weightfabrics,suchasquiltingcottons,incoordinatingcolors(forlargebowl)*½yard(46cm)heavyweightfusibleinterfacing

1.measure+cutSMALLBOWL:Cuta6½"(16.5cm)squarefromeachof2coordinatingfabrics,and2squaresofthesamesizefrominterfacing.

MEDIUMBOWL:Cutan8½"(21.5cm)squarefromeachof2remainingcoordinatingfabrics,and2squaresofthesamesizefrominterfacing.

LARGEBOWL:Cuta9½"(24cm)squarefromeachofthe2remainingcoordinatingfabrics,and2squaresofthesamesizefrominterfacing.(FIGURE1)

2.attachinterfacingFuseonecorrespondingpieceofinterfacingtothewrongsideofeachpieceoffabric.

3.sewthesquaresPinbothsmallbowl(6½"[16.5cm])squaresoffabricrightsidestogether,aligningallrawedges.Sewaroundall4sideswitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance,leavinga4"(10cm)openingononeside.(FIGURE2)

Trimtheseamallowancefromthecornersandturnthepiecerightsideoutthroughtheopeninginthestitching.Useapointytooltocarefullypokethecornersout.Turnundertherawedgeofthefabricattheopening¼"(6mm)andpresstotheinside.Topstitcharoundall4sides,½"fromtheedge.(FIGURE3)

RepeatStep3usingtheremainingpiecesoffabrictosewthemediumandlargesquares.

4.makethecornersSMALLBOWL:Foldthesquareinhalfdiagonally.Markapointalongthesideedge1"(2.5cm)infromthepointofonefoldedcorner,andsewaseamfromthefoldededgetothisspot,perpendiculartothesidesofthesquare.(FIGURE4)Repeatforallremainingcornersofthesmallbowl.Asyouseweachcorner,thebowlwillbegintotakeshape.

MEDIUMBOWL:Foldandsewthecornersasyoudidforthesmallbowl,placingtheseam1½"(3.8cm)fromthepointofthecorner.(FIGURE4)

LARGEBOWL:Foldandsewthecornersasyoudidforthesmallbowl,placingtheseam1¾"(4.5cm)fromthepointofthecorner.(FIGURE4)

FORALLSIZES:Openthetuckbetweenthecornerseamandthepointofeachcorner.(FIGURE5)Flattenthetuckoutagainstthecornerseamsothatthecornerpointiscenteredontheseam.Topstitchthefabricinplaceacrossthefold,sewingparalleltothetopedgeofthebowl,about¼"(6mm)fromtheedge,andbackstitchtoreinforcetheseam.Repeatforeverycorneroneachbowl.(FIGURE6)

StaggeringStripsBabyQuilt

staggeringstripsbabyquilt

Thankstotheirsmallscale,babyquiltsaretheperfectplatformforexperimentingwithcolorandlayout.Inthisquilt,unevenstripsoffabricarestitchedtogetheratstaggeredintervals,makingaverysimpleconstructionlookhigh-design.Noexactmeasuringorprecisecuttingisrequiredforthisproject,soyougetallthecraftyfunwithoutallthefuss.Youcanfinishthisquiltinaboutaweekend,soifyouneedaquickgiftthatlookslikeitsteppedoutofamodernboutique—baby,thisone’sforyou.finisheddimensionsWIDTH:Approximately36"(91cm)LENGTH:Approximately30"(76cm)(Becausethisquiltisimprecise,exactfinishedmeasurementswillvary.)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*¼yard(23cm)eachof6differentfabricsincolorgroupA(here,orangewasused)*¼yard(23cm)eachof6differentfabricsinacontrastingcolorgroupB(here,greenwasused)*½yard(46cm)eachof3fabricsinneutraltonesforcolorgroupC*1yard(91cm)coordinatingfabricforquiltback*½yard(46cm)coordinatingfabricforbinding*1yard(91cm)cottonquiltbatting

fabricsuggestionsQuiltingcottonsareidealforthisproject.Cotton-linenblendsworknicelyforthequiltback,ifyoulike.

note

This project involves a little bit of randomness—exact measurements aren’tnecessary,soIencourageyoutobefreewhencuttingandstitchingforaresultthat’sallyou.

1.measure+cutCuttheA,B,andCfabricsintostrips2½"(6.5cm)wide,andranginginlengthfrom13"to15"(33cm–38cm).Youwillneed11stripsincolorgroupA,10stripsincolorgroupB,and42stripsincolorgroupCtomakeaquiltjustlikethisone—butofcourseyoucanvarythenumberofeachcolorstripsyouuseforapersonalizeddesign.(FIGURE1)

2.sewthestripsofthequiltfrontSewaC(neutralfabric)stripontoeachshortendofeveryAandBstrip.PressallseamallowancestowardtheAandBsectionssothecoloredseamallowancesdon’tshowthroughthelighterfabrics.(FIGURE2)

3.arrangethestripsLayoutallthestripsonyourworksurfaceorfloor.Arrangethem,rightsideup,inthecolororderyouprefer.(Iclusteredmystripsinsectionswithorangeatthetopandbottomandgreeninthemiddle.)

Arrangethestripssothatthecentercolumnisstaggered.Theendsofthestripswon’tbesquarewitheachother;they’llbetrimmedlater.(FIGURE3)

4.jointhestripsOnceyouarehappywiththestriparrangement,pinthensewthestripstogetherasfollows:Forthewonkylookofthisquilt,assemblethestripsunevenlybyarrangingtherawedgesofeachstripsothattheyareslightlyaskew,andthensewastraightseamtojointhepieces(seamallowanceswillvaryaccordingtoyourwonkiness).Alternatively,arrangetherawedgesevenlybutallowyourseamallowancetobecomeslightlywiderornarrowerasyousewacrossthelengthofthestrip.Youmayalsowanttosewwithanextra-largeallowanceonsomestrips(upto1"[2.5cm])sothatsomestripsarenarrowerthanothers.(FIGURE4)

Trimtheseamallowancestoabout¼"(6mm).Pressallseamallowancesinthesamedirection,towardoneendofthequilt.

5.trimtheedgesofthetopWhenallthestripsarejoinedtogether,theedgesofthequilttopwillbeunevenandwillneedtobemadesquare.Useaquilter’sruleroryardstickandarotarycutterorscissorstoevenalltheedgesandcreaterightanglesonall4corners.

Measurethefinishedsizeofthetrimmedquilttop.

6.layerbattingandback

Cutthebattingandquiltbackfabric6"(15cm)longerandwiderthanthequilttop.Laythequiltbackonyourworksurfacerightsidedown,smoothingittoensuretherearenobumpsorwrinkles.Laythebattingontopofthis,aligningalledgesandcorners.Centerthequilttop,rightsideup,ontopofthebatting,sandwichingthebattingbetweenthequiltfrontandquiltback.(FIGURE5)

7.basteUsingahand-sewingneedleandthread,basteall3layersofthequilttogetherusinglong

runningstitches(approximately3"[7.5cm]long)placedapproximately6"(15cm)apart.Alternatively,youcanpinthelayerstogetherwithsafetypins.

8.quiltYoucannowquiltthe3layerstogetherbyhandormachine.

Usingall-purposethreadinaneutralcolor,quiltallthelayerstogether,makingonelineofhorizontalquiltingstitchesacrosseachhorizontalstrip.Inkeepingwiththewonkylookofthisdesign,don’tworryaboutmakingthequiltinglinesperfectlyeven—it’sfineiftheyslantorgoabitcrooked.(FIGURE5)

9.bind+finishRemovethebastingstitches.Trimthebattingandquiltbacksothattheyareevenwiththerawedgesofthequilttop.

Finishthequilt’srawedgeswithquiltbinding.

personalizeit!

It’sreallyeasytochangeupthisdesignwithdifferentcolorsoradifferentlayout.Ithinkitwouldlookgreatifthecentercolumnwereshadesofallonecolor,likebluesor browns. It would also be fun to stagger the color sections in a differentconfiguration,suchasinadiagonalcolumninsteadofvertical.

60-SecondHello

60-secondhello

Gotaminute?Stitchupthesecutegreetingcardswithyourfabricscraps.

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*Medium-weightfabricscraps*Blankgreetingcards*Adhesivesuchasdouble-sidedtape,glue,ordouble-sidedfusiblewebbing

1.Randomlystitchtogetherstripsofscrapfabrictocreateapatchworkpiecethatisslightlylargerthanthefrontofyourcard,andpressallseamstooneside.Or,simplyselectasolidpieceoffabricthatisatleastthesizeofyourcard.2.Trimthefabrictojustslightlysmallerthanthefrontofyourcard.3.Topreventshiftingwhilesewing,attachthefabrictothecardwithanadhesiveofyourchoice.(Ifyouareusingglue,allowittodrybeforeproceeding.)4.Topstitchall4sidesofthefabric,makingsurethecardisopenflatsoyoudon’tsewitclosed.

9-to-5folder

9-to-5folder

Tuckbusinesscards,apen,notes,andmoreintothepocketsofthishandyportfolio.Iusedsuitingfabricfortheexteriortogiveitanoffice-ytouch,butthispiecewouldlookfantasticinacolorfulprint,too.

finisheddimensionsWIDTH:6"(15cm)closed,16½"(42cm)openLENGTH:9"(23cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*⅓yard(30cm)medium-weightfabricforexterior*¼yard(23cm)contrastingmedium-weightfabricforpockets*⅓yard(30cm)heavyweightfusibleinterfacing*Two1"(2.5cm)buttons*7"(18cm)length⅛"-(3mm-)thickelasticcord*Plasticfolderfromofficesupplystore(seeNote)

noteTostiffenthispiece,flexibleplasticinsertsareplacedinbetweenthelayersoffabric.Iusedaplasticofficefolderforthis,whichistheperfectweightandeasytocutwithscissors.

1.measure+cutEXTERIOR,INTERIOR,ANDINTERFACING:Fromtheexteriorfabric,cut2rectanglesmeasuring10"×17½"(25.5cm×44.5cm);cut2rectanglesthesamesizefromtheinterfacing.

POCKETS:Fromthepocketfabric,cutonerectangle13"×17½"(33cm×44.5cm)andonerectangle7"×17¾"(18cm×45cm).

PLASTICINSERTS:Fromtheplastic,cut2rectangles8¼"×5½"(21cm×14cm)andonerectangle8¼"×2¾"(21cm×7cm).(FIGURE1)

2.attachinterfacingFuseapieceofinterfacingtoboth10"×17½"(25.5cm×44.5cm)exteriorandinteriorrectangles(thispage).

3.assemblepocketpieceFoldeachpocketpieceinhalflengthwisewithwrongsidestogetherandpress.Topstitcheachpiececlosetothefold.

MAKETHEPENCILPOCKET:Orienttheshorter(7"[18cm])pocketwiththefoldededgeatthetop.Markthebottomrawedgeasfollows:Measure3"(7.5cm)infromtheleftrawedgeandmarkpointA.Measure1"(2.5cm)totherightofAandmarkpointB.(FIGURE2)

Positiontheshorterpocketontopofthetaller(13"[33cm])pocket,withrawedgesaligned,makingasmallpleatbetweenpointsAandB(ontheshorterpocket),pleatingjustenoughtoaligntherawsideedgesofbothpockets.Pintogether.

Topstitchthe2pocketstogetheratpointA,stitchingaverticallinefromthebottomrawedgeuptothefoldedtopedgeoftheshorterpocket.RepeatatpointB.(FIGURE2)

ATTACHTHEPOCKETSTOTHEINTERIOROFTHEFOLDER:Layerthejoinedpocketsrightsideupontherightsideofoneofthe10"×17½"(25.5cm×44.5cm)rectangles,

aligningthebottomandsideedges;pin.Sewtogetheralongthesidesandbottom,usinga¼"(6mm)seamallowance,leavingthetopedgeopen.Thisistheinterior.

4.attachtheelasticcordandbuttonsELASTICCORDANDRIGHT-HANDBUTTON:Ontheremaining10"×17½"(25.5cm×44.5cm)rectangle(exterior),markaspotontherightsideofthefabric2"(5cm)fromtheright-hand(shorter)sideedge,centeredbetweenthetopandbottom(longer)edges.Foldtheelasticcordinhalfwithrawendsaligned.Positiontherawendsatthemark,andsewbackandforthoverthemseveraltimes.Sewabuttononatthesamemark,directlyovertherawendsoftheelastic.(FIGURE3)

LEFT-HANDBUTTON:Markanotherpoint5"(12.5cm)fromtheleftedgeandcenteredbetweenthetopandbottomedges.

Sewabuttonatthismarkwithathreadshank:Placeawoodedmatchstick(orotherobjectofthesamediameterastheelastic)underthebuttonasyousew.Removethematchstick,pullthebuttonawayfromthefabric,andwrapthesewingthreadaroundthestitchesattachingthebuttontothefabric3times,thenbringthethreadthroughthefabrictosecureitonthewrongside.(FIGURE3)

5.assembletheinteriorandexteriorFoldunderthetopedgeoftheexteriorandinterior(theedgeoppositethepockets)½"(13mm)andpress.Unfold;thefoldlineswillbeusedlaterasaguide.

JOINTHEINTERIORTOTHEEXTERIOR:Withrightsidestogether,pintheexteriorpieceandinterior/pocketpiecetogetherwithallrawedgesaligned.Usingaheavy-dutyneedle(sinceyouwillbesewingthroughmanylayersoffabric),sewthesidesandbottomtogetherwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance,leavingthetopedgeopen.Becarefulnottocatchtheelasticloopinthestitching.

Trimthecorners,turnthepiecerightsideout,anduseapointyobjecttogentlypokeoutthecorners;press.Turnthetopedgesunderatthefoldlinescreatedearlier,andpress.

TOPSTITCHTOMAKEPOCKETS:Withtheinteriorfacingup,measureandmarkapoint6"(15cm)fromtheleft-handsideedge,andmarkanotherpoint½"(13mm)totherightofthis.Measure6"(15cm)totherightandmarkanotherpoint,thenmeasure½"(13mm)to

therightofthisandmarkanotherpoint.Topstitchthroughalllayersateachofthese4points,makingaverticallineofstitchingfromthetopedgetothebottomedge.(FIGURE4).

FINISH:Insertthetwo5½"-(14cm-)wideplasticpiecesinthe6"(15cm)sections(betweenthetopstitching),andinsertthe2¾"-(7cm-)wideplasticpieceintheremainingnarrowsection.

Topstitcharoundtheperimeteroftheentirepiece,stitchingclosetothefold,closingtheopentopedge.

Insertasmallnotebookintothetoppocketonthecenterpanel,ifdesired.Foldthefolderclosedandlooptheelasticovertheotherbuttontosecure.

TheMagicSewingKit

themagicsewingkit

Removethelidfromthisseeminglysimplelittlebox,andahiddensewingkitspringstolife!Thesidesoftheboxopenoutwardtorevealspotsforspoolsofthreadorothernotions,whilethecentercontainerisperfectforscissorsandmore.Sewingonamissingbuttonwasneversomuchfun!

finisheddimensionsWIDTH:4½"(11.4cm)closed,12"(30.5cm)openLENGTH:4½"(11.4cm)closed,12"(30.5cm)openHEIGHT:4¼"(11.4cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*½yard(46cm)medium-weightcottonforexterior*½yard(46cm)medium-weightcottonforinterior*½yard(46cm)heavyweightfusibleinterfacing*Scrapsofcraftfelt*1½yards(1.4m)¼"-(6mm-)wideelastic*1largesheetofveryheavycardstockorbookboard,atleast12"(30.5cm)×15"(38cm)*Hotgluegun

1.measure+cutBASE:Cutone13"×13"(33cm×33cm)squareeachfromtheinteriorandexteriorfabrics.Cut2squaresthesamesizefromtheinterfacing.

LID:Cutone7½"×7½"(19cm×19cm)squareeachfromtheinteriorandexteriorfabrics.Cut2squaresthesamesizefromtheinterfacing.

CENTERCONTAINER:Cuttwo3½"×9"(9cm×23cm)rectanglesfromtheexteriorfabric.Cut2rectanglesthesamesizefromtheinterfacing.

FELTPINPADS:Cuteight1½"×2"(3.8cm×5cm)rectanglesfromthefelt.

CARDSTOCK:Usingacraftknife,straightedge,andcuttingmat,cutfive3½"×3½"(9cm×9cm)squares.Cutone4"×4"(10cm×10cm)square,andfour4"×¾"(10cm×2cm)rectangles.(FIGURE1)

2.cutbaseandlidshapesBASE:Fuseonepieceofcorrespondinginterfacingtothewrongsidethebaseexteriorandinteriorpieces.Cut4(10cm)squarefromeachcorner,creatingaplus-signshape.(FIGURE2)

LID:Fuseonepieceofcorrespondinginterfacingtothewrongsideofthelidexteriorandinteriorpieces.Cuta1(2.5cm)squarefromeachcorner,creatingaplus-signshape.(FIGURE3)

thebase

3.sewthebaseTurnunder½"(13mm)alongtheouteredgeofone“arm”ofeachbasepiece(exteriorandinterior)andpress.Openthefold(thefoldedlineswillbeusedinStep4).

Pinthe2basepiecesrightsidestogether,aligningallrawedgesandthe2prefoldededges.Leavingtheprefoldedendsopen,sewaroundallothersidesusinga½"(13mm)seam

allowance.(FIGURE4)

Cliptheseamallowancefromallthecorners,takingspecialcaretocliptheinteriorcornersascloseaspossibletothestitchline.Carefullyturnthepiecerightsideoutanduseapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners.Press.

4.addthecardstockandelastictothebaseCuttheelasticintoeight5"(12.5cm)lengths.Setaside.

Slideoneofthe3½"(9cm)squaresofcardstockthroughthefolded-edgeopening,slidingitintooneoftheotherarms.Withtheliningfabricfacingup,place2lengthsofelasticacrossthearm,spacingthemabout1"(2.5cm)fromtheouteredgeofthearmandabout1"(2.5cm)apartfromeachother;pininplace.Theelasticwilloverhang½"(13mm)oneachsideofthearm.Topstitcharoundall4sidesofthecardstock,closetothefoldededgesofthefabricbutoutsidetheedgeofthecardstock,stitchingacrosstheelastictoanchoritinplace.Trimtheelasticflushwiththeedgesofthearmafterstitching.(FIGURE5)

Repeatforthe2remainingstitchedarms,butnottheonewiththeopenedge.

Next,slidea3½"(9cm)squareofcardstockintothecenterarea(nostitchingisrequiredtoholdthispieceinplace)beforeslidingthefinalpieceofcardstockintothearmwiththeopenedge.Turnundertheopenedgesalongthefoldlinesyoumadeearlier,andpress.Addelasticandtopstitcharoundalledgesofthisarmasyoudidforthepreviousarms,closinguptheopening.

thecentercontainer

5.sewthecentercontainerFusethecentercontainerinterfacingpiecestothewrongsideofthecorrespondingfabricpieces.

Foldunder½"(13mm)ononeshortendofeachcentercontainerpiece,andpress.Unfold(thefoldedlineswillbeusedlater).Withrightsidestogether,pinthe2piecestogether,aligningtheprefoldededgesandallrawedges.Sewthepiecestogetheraround3sideswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance,leavingtheprefoldededgesopen.

Cliptheseamallowancefromthecornersandturnthepiecerightsideout.Useapointyobjecttogentlypokeoutthecorners,andthenfoldundertheprefoldededges.Press.

Topstitcharoundtheperimeterofthepiece.Markthepieceevery2"(5cm)alongitslength,andsewaverticallineoftopstitchingateachmark.(FIGURE6)

Foldthepieceatthetopstitchinglinesandpress.Unfold(thefoldedlineswillbeusedinStep6).

6.addthefelttothecentercontainerLayertwopiecesoffelttogetherandcenterthemoneach2"(5cm)sectionofthestripmadeinStep5.Byhand,stitchthefelttothestripwitharunningstitch(thispage),sewingaroundall4edgesofthefelt,closetotheedge.(Sewingthesepiecesbymachineisnotrecommended,asthefelttendstoshiftanddistortduringmachinesewing.)

Foldthestripateachtopstitched/foldedlinefromStep5.Byhand,whipstitchthe2openedgestogether,makinga4-sidedcolumn.

Usingahotgluegun,glueoneendofthecolumntothecenterofthebasemadeinStep2.(Refertophotoforplacement.)

thelid

7.sewthelidThelidisassembledtheusingthesamebasicconstructionasthebaseinStep3(FIGURE4ANDFIGURE5).

Turnunder½"(13mm)alongtheouteredgeofonearmofeachlidpieceandpress.Openthefold(thisfoldlinewillbeusedlater).

Pinthe2lidpiecesrightsidestogether,aligningthe2prefoldededgesandallrawedges.Leavingtheprefoldedsectionopen,sewaroundallothersidesusinga½"(13mm)seamallowance.

Cliptheseamallowancefromallthecorners,takingspecialcaretocliptheinteriorcornersascloseaspossibletothestitchline.Turnthepiecerightsideout,usingapointyobjecttogentlypokeoutthecorners,andpress.

8.addthecardstocktothelidSlideoneofthe4"×¾"(10cm×2cm)rectanglesofcardstockthroughtheopenfoldededgesofthelid,slidingitintooneoftheotherarms.Topstitcharoundall4sidesofthecardstock,inthespacebetweentheedgeofthefabricandthecardstock.(FIGURE7)

Repeatfor2morearms,andthenslidethe4"(10cm)squareofcardstockintothecenterarea(nostitchingisrequiredtoholdthispieceinplace).Slidethefinal4"×¾"(10cm×2cm)rectangleofcardstockintothearmwiththeopenside.Turnundertheopenareaalongthefoldlinesyoumadeearlier,andpress.Topstitcharoundalledgesofthisarmasyoudidforthepreviousarms.

Afterassembling,foldupeachsideofthelidsothatthe1"(2.5cm)edgesmeetatthecorners,andwhipstitchthesidestogetheratthecornerstocompletethelid.

9.finishFoldupall4armsofthebaseandplacethelidontoptokeepthesewingkitclosed.Whenthelidisoff,thesidesofthebasewillfallopenandflat.Theelasticcanbeusedtoholdspoolsofthreadorothernotions;fillthecentercontainerwithsmallscissors,buttons,orothersewingtools.

On-the-GoJewelryKeeper

on-the-gojewelrykeeper

Travelinstyleandstayorganizedwiththishandylittlecase,whichallowsyoustoreallyouraccessoriesinoneplace.Snapringsandhoopearringssecurelyontothestraps,andstasheverythingelseinthezipperpockets.Neat!finisheddimensionsWIDTH:10"(25.5cm)LENGTH:4"(10cm)closed,12"(30.5cm)open

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*⅓yard(30cm)heavyweightfabricsuchascanvasorcottontwill(forexterior)*⅓yard(30cm)coordinatingmedium-weightfabricsuchasquiltingcotton(forinteriorpocketsandlining)*¼yard(23cm)coordinatingmedium-weightfabricsuchasquiltingcotton(forstraps)*Three8"(20.5cm)zippers*Five¼"(6mm)snaps

1.measure+cutEXTERIORANDLINING:Cutone13"×11"(33cm×28cm)rectanglefromtheexteriorfabric(fortheexterior)andonerectangleofthesamesizefromthelining/pocketfabric.

POCKETS:Cutthree11"×4"(28cm×10cm)rectanglesandthree11"×2"(28cm×5cm)rectanglesfromthelining/pocketfabric.

STRAPS:Cutthree2"×8¾"(5cm×22cm)stripsfromthestrapfabric.(FIGURE1)

2.installthezippersWithrightsidestogether,alignone11"×4"(28cm×10cm)pocketpiecewithan11"×2"(28cm×5cm)pocketpiece,withrawedgesalignedalongthe11"(28cm)edges.Sewthefabricstogetheralongthisedgewitha½"(13mm)seamallowanceasfollows:Sewwitharegularstitchfor1½"(3.8cm),backstitchtoreinforce,thenswitchtoabastingstitchlengthandbastefor8"(20.5cm).Switchbacktoaregularstitchlength,backstitchtoreinforce,andsewtheremaining1½"(3.8cm).Presstheseamallowanceopen.Repeatforthe2remaininginteriorpockets.(FIGURE2)

Positionazipperrightsidedownonthewrongsideoftheseamyoujustsewed,centeringthezipperteethoverthebastedportionoftheseam.Pinitinplace.(FIGURE3)Attachthe

zipperfoottoyourmachine.Topstitchalongeachsideofthezipper,about¼"(6mm)fromtheteeth,backstitchingtoreinforceatthebeginningandendoneachsideofthezipper.(FIGURE3)Fromtherightside,carefullyremovethebastingstitcheswithaseamripper.

Repeattoinstalltheremainingzippersintoeachoftheremaining2interiorpocketpieces.

3.jointhezipperpanelsSewthe3zipperedinterior-pocketpiecestogether.Withrightsidestogetherandtherawedgesofthe11"(28cm)sidesaligned,pinandsewthepocketstogetherwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamallowancesopen.(FIGURE4)

4.makeandattachthestrapsUsingthestrappiecescutinStep1,make3strapsfollowingthesedirections.

Orientthezipperpocketpanel,rightsideup,withthezipperclosesttothepaneledgeatthetop.Positiononestrap1"(2.5cm)beloweachzipper,aligningtherawendsofthetopandbottomstrapswiththeleft-handrawedgeofthepocketpanel,andtherawendofthemiddlestrapwiththeright-handrawedgeofthepocketpanel.Sewthestrapsinplacewitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.Hand-sewasnaptotheendofeachstrapontheunderside;

sewthecorrespondinghalfofthesnaptothezipperpanelwherethestrapsnapmeetsit.(FIGURE5)

5.sewsnapsforthewalletclosureATTHEINSIDETOPOFTHEWALLET:OrientthepocketpanelasyoudidinStep4.Onthetoppanel,markplacementfortheclosuresnaps1"(2.5cm)fromthetoprawedgeand3"(7.5cm)infromeachside.Sewasnapateachofthesepoints.(FIGURE6)

ATTHEOUTSIDEBOTTOMOFTHEWALLET:Markplacementforsnapsonthe11"×13"(28cm×33cm)exteriorpanelofthewalletattheoppositeendfromthesnapsyouaddedtothepocketpanelabove.Markasfollows:Measure3"(7.5cm)upfromthebottomedgeoftheexteriorpanel,and3"(7.5cm)infromeachside;markapointatbothlocationsandsewasnapateachmark.(Besuretopositionthesnapsatwhatwillbethebottomofthewalletsincethecorrespondinginteriorsnapswereplacedatthetopofthewallet.)(FIGURE7)

6.jointhezipperpanelandliningPlacethesolidliningpanelyoucutinStep1rightsideuponaflatsurface.Layerthepocketpanelrightsideupontopoftheliningpanelmatchingallrawedges—bothpieceswillbeorientedwiththerightsidesup;pin.Sewtogetheronall4sideswitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.Stitchintheditchintheseamsbetweeneachpocketpaneltocreate3separatecompartments.(Layeringthefabricsasdescribedherewillensurethatyouseetherightsideoftheliningfabricwhenyouopenthepockets.)

7.jointheinteriorandexteriorPinthejoinedpocket/liningpanelandexteriorpanelrightsidestogether,aligningallrawedges.(Besuretoorientthemsothatthesnapsareatthetopedgeoftheliningandthebottomedgeoftheexterior.).Sewtogetheronall4sideswitha½"(13mm)seamallowance,leavinga5"(12.5cm)openingalongthebottomedgeforturningthewalletrightsideout.

Trimtheseamallowanceatthecorners,andturnthepiecerightsideout.Useapointytooltogentlypokeoutcorners.Presstheseamsandwhipstitchtheopeningclosedbyhand.

Foldthewalletinthirdsandclosewiththesnaps.

DenimDopBag

denimdopbag

Itcanbetrickytosewprojectsforguysthattheywillactuallylike.Whenitcomestostitchingformen,stayawayfromflashycolorsandpatterns—basicsarethebest.Thisshavebagisanessentialeverymancanuse,inspiredbyaclassicthatnevergoesoutofstyle:bluejeans.finisheddimensionsWIDTH:4"(10cm)HEIGHT:4"(10cm)LENGTH:10"(25.5cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*¼yard(23cm)denim*9"(23cm)metalzipper*Heavyweightthread*Heavy-dutysewingmachineneedle

tip

Before beginning, load your machine with a heavy-duty needle and heavyweightthreadinthebobbinandtheneedle.

1.measure+cutCutallpiecesfromthedenimfabric,referringtoFIGURE1.

STRAP:Cutonerectanglethatis6"×4"(15cm×10cm).

BAGTOP:Cut2 rectangles thatareeach3"×9" (7.5cm×23cm)and2 rectangles thatareeach2"×5" (5cm×12.5cm).

BAGSIDESANDBOTTOM:Cut3rectanglesthatareeach11"×5"(28cm×12.5cm).

BAGENDS:Cut2squaresthatareeach5"×5"(12.5cm×12.5cm).

noteWhenpressingseamsnearthezipper,beawarethataftercomingincontactwiththeiron,themetalzipperwillbecomehotenoughtoburnyou.Becareful!

2.makethestrapMakethestrapfollowingtheseinstructions.Topstitchthestrapclosetoeachfoldededge.Setthestrapaside.

3.installthezipperonthebagtopWithrightsidestogether,pinthezippertothelongedgeononeofthe3"×9"(7.5cm×23cm)(top)rectangles.Usingazipperfoot,sewthezippertothefabricclosetotheteeth.(FIGURE2)Presstheseamallowanceawayfromthezipper.Repeattosewtheremaining3"×9"(7.5cm×23cm)rectangletotheothersideofthezipper.(FIGURE3)Topstitchoneachsideofthezipper.(FIGURE4)

Thefinaltoppieceshouldbe5"×9"(12.5cm×23cm);ifnecessary,trimyourpiecetothissizebeforeproceeding.

4.finishsewingthebagtopWithrightsidestogether,pina2"×5"(5cm×12.5cm)rectangletoeachshortendofthezippertoppiece.Usingastandardpresserfoot,sewwith½"(13mm)seamallowances.(FIGURE5)Presstheseamallowanceawayfromthezipper,andtopstitchtheseamsclosetothetheiredges.

5.adddecorativetopstitchingTopstitcharoundall4outsideedgesofthezippertop,sewing⅝"(16mm)infromtherawedges.(FIGURE6)

Onallremainingfabricpieces(sides,bottom,andends),topstitcharoundall4sidesofeachpiece⅝"(16mm)infromtherawedges.

6.addthestraptooneendCenterandpinthestrapontherightsideofoneendpiece,aligningrawedges.Sewthestraptothetopwitha¼"(6mm)seamallowance.(FIGURE7)

7.assemblethesidesWithrightsidestogetherandrawedgesaligned,pintheendpiecestothe5"(12.5cm)edgesofthesidepieces.Sewoneedgeatatimewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance,beginningandendingeachseam½"(13mm)fromthetopandbottomedges.(Thiswillproducesharp,3-Dcorners.)Onceallpiecesareassembledtheywillformarectangle.Pressallseamsopen.(FIGURE8)

8.attachthebottomWithrightsidestogetherandrawedgesaligned,pinandsewthe11"(28cm)edgesofthebottomtothe11"(28cm)edgesofthesides,leaving½"(13mm)unsewnatthebeginningandendofeachseam.Pinandsewthe5"(12.5cm)edgesthesameway.Presstheseamallowancesopen.(FIGURE9)

Trimtheseamallowanceatthecorners.Turnthebagrightsideoutandpresstheseams.

9.attachthetopTurnthebaginsideout.Withthezipperopenandrightsidestogether,pinthensewthetoptothebagbodythesamewayyoudidthebottom,leaving½"(13mm)unsewnatthebeginningandendofeachseam.Trimtheseamallowanceatthecorners.Turnthebagrightsideoutthroughthezipperedopeningandpresstheseams.

GOHEAVY

Heavyweight threadgives thisbag itsdistinctive“jeans” look. Ifyou’veneverusedheavy thread before, give it a try—it makes a huge impact in the look of yourfinishedproject.Simplyloadit intoyourmachineasyouwouldall-purposethread,andstitchaway!

tip

Youcancutallthepiecesyouneedforthisbagfromapairofoldjeans!

MisterBunny&MissKitty

misterbunny&misskitty

Thisdapperduoisalldressedupforanightonthetown!They’restitchedinsoftwoolflannel,makingthemirresistiblycuddly.Youcanpurchasetheflannelbytheyard—orevenbetter,cutupoldflannelshirtsfromthethriftstoreoryourdad’scloset.

finisheddimensionsBUNNY:Width(acrossthearms):14"(35.5cm);height:20"(51cm)KITTY:Width(acrossthearms):14"(35.5cm);height:16"(40.5cm)

supplies*Basicsewingsupplies*⅓yard(30cm)brownwoolflannel(oronelargeadultflannelshirt)*⅛yard(11cm)plaidwoolflannel(oronesmallflannelshirt)*⅓yard(30cm)graywoolflannel(oronelargeadultflannelshirt)*¼yard(23cm)whitecraftfelt*⅛yard(11cm)pinkcraftfelt*⅛yard(11cm)blackcraftfelt*⅛yard(11cm)redcottonfabric*Two12mmsafetyeyes*Two8mmsafetyeyes*Blackembroideryfloss*¼yard(23cm)fusibleweb*One12-ounce(340g)bagfiberfill*7"(18cm)whiterickrack*Three⅜"(1cm)whitebuttons

misterbunny

1.measure+cutCutthefollowingpiecesfromthefabricsasindicated.(FIGURE1)

frombrownwoolflannel:BunnyBody(cut2):13½"×10"(34.5cm×25.5cm).Fromoneofthe10"(25.5cm)edgesofthesepieces,cutoutacentered6"×4"(15cm×10cm)rectangle,asshown(FIGURE1),toformtheears.BunnyFeet(cut2):5"×2"(12.5cm×5cm)BunnyArms(cut2):5"×4"(12.5cm×10cm)

fromplaidwoolflannel:BunnyPants(cut2):10"×4"(25.5cm×10cm)BunnyLegs(cut2):5"×4"(12.5cm×10cm)

frompinkcraftfelt:InsideBunnyEars(cut2):4"×1½"(10cm×3.8cm).Cuteachpieceintoafreehandoblongovalshapewithaflatbottom(refertophoto).

fromwhitecraftfelt:BunnyFace(cutone):6"×5"(15cm×12.5cm).Cutthispieceintoafreehandovalshape.

fromredcotton:BunnyTie(cutone):2½"×2½"(6.5cm×6.5cm)BunnyTieClosure(cutone):1"×1"(2.5cm×2.5cm)

2.makethebunny’sfaceandearsRefertoFIGURE2.

FACE:Onthecenterofthebunnyfaceoval,sketchasimplenoseandmouth,usingthephotoforguidance.(Don’tworryifit’salittlecrookedorimperfect;thataddstothecharm!)Usingblackembroideryfloss,embroiderthenoseusinga

satinstitchandthemouthusingasplitstitch.(SeeEmbroideryStitchessidebarforinstructions.)

Cutapieceoffusiblewebthatisslightlysmallerthanthebunny’sface.Sandwichthefusiblewebbetweenthefeltovaland the right side of the body piece, and fuse the face to the body, following the instructions on the fusible webpackaging.Refertothephotoforplacement.

Ontheface,markspotsfortheeyesoneachsideofthebunny’snose.Withaseamripper,carefullypiercethefabricatthespotsyouwanttoplacetheeyes.

Followingthemanufacturer’s instructions, installa12mmeye ineachhole,placing thecaponthewrongsideof thefabric.(Theeyeswillbeinstalledthroughboththefaceandbodylayers.)

EARS:Usingfusibleweb,fusethepinkinnerearstotherightsideofthebunnybodyfront,centeringthemontheearportionsofthebody.

3.makethebowtieFoldthe2½"×2½"(6.5cm×6.5cm)pieceofredcottoninhalfwithrightsidestogetherandstitcharound2sidesusinga¼"(6mm)seamallowance,pinningifnecesssary.(FIGURE3)Trimcorners,turnrightsideout,anduseapointyobjecttogentlypokeoutthecorners.Turnundertheremainingrawedge¼"(6mm)andpress.Topstitcharoundall4sides.Gatherintoabowtieshapebypleatingatthecenter(refertophoto).

Foldthe1"(2.5cm)squareofredcottonintothirdsandwrapitaroundthegatheredcenter.Usingmatchingthreadandahand-sewingneedle,securethebandatthebackofthebowtie,andstitchthebowtietothebunny’sbodybelowhisface.(FIGURE4)

4.assemblethebunnyRefertoFIGURE2.

PANTS:Withrightsidestogether,pinthensewapantspiecetothebottomofeachbodypiece(frontandback)with½"(13mm)seamallowances.Presstheseamallowancestoone

side.

ARMS:Withrightsidestogether,foldeacharmpieceinhalfsothatthe5"(12.5cm)sidesarealigned;pin.Witha½"(13mm)seamallowance,seweacharmtogetheralongtheraw5"(12.5cm)sideandoneshortend,leavingtheremainingshortendopen.Trimtheseamallowanceatthecornersandturnrightsideout.Useapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners.Presstheseams,andstuffthearmslightlywithfiberfill.

LEGSANDFEET:Withrightsidestogether,alignthe5"(12.5cm)edgesofeachlegandfootpiece;pin.Sewtogetherwitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamallowancestooneside.

Foldthelegsinhalflengthwisewithrightsidestogether;pinthensewwitha½"(13mm)seamallowancealongthefeetendanduptherawsideofthelegs.Trimtheseamallowanceatthecornersandturnrightsideout.Presstheseams,andstuffthelegslightlywithfiberfill.

tip

If thesetoyswillbegiventoachild, Isuggestreinforcingthefeltearsandfacebyhand-sewing them to the body. Using awhipstitch,matching thread, and a hand-sewingneedle,simplystitcharoundtheperimeterofthefelt.

ATTACHTHEARMSANDLEGS:Pinthearmstotherightsideofthefrontofthebody,aligningtherawendsofthearmswiththerawedgesofthesidesofthebody,andcenteringthearmsnearthebottomofthebunny’sface.Pinthelegstothebottomedgeofthebunny’sbody,aligningrawendsandpositioningthelegs1½"(3.8cm)infromthecorners.Sewthearmsandlegsinplaceusinga¼"(6mm)seamallowance.

JOINTHEFRONTANDBACK:Positionthefrontandbacktogetherwithrightsidestogetherandallrawedgesaligned(thearmsandlegsshouldbefacinginward,sandwichedbetweenthebodypieces).Pinwelltoavoidshifting,andsewthe 2 pieces together on all sides using a½" (13mm) seam allowance, and leaving an opening on the bottom edgebetweenthelegs.(Besuretobackstitchatthebeginningandendoftheopeningtoreinforcesotheseamdoesn’tunravelduringstuffing.)

STUFFANDFINISH: Trim the seamallowance at the corners, including the interior corners at the base of the ears.Carefullyturnthebunnyrightsideout,usingapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners,andstuffhimwithfiberfill.Whipstitchtheopeningclosed.

EMBROIDERYSTITCHES

Threadanembroideryneedlewith3strandsofembroideryflossforeachofthesestitches.

* The split stitch creates a continual line of connected stitches that is easy tomanipulatearoundcurves,suchasforthemouthsofthekittyandbunny.Bringtheneedle up through the threads of the preceding stitch, then insert back into thefabrictocompletethenextstitch.

*Thesatinstitchisgreatforfillinginsolidareas,suchasthekittyandbunnynoses.Bringtheneedleupononeedgeoftheareayouwanttofill,andbringitdownontheoppositeedge.Repeat,makingeachstitchparalleltotheprevious,workingthestitchesveryclosetogether,untiltheentireareaisfilledin.

misskitty

1.measure+cutCutthefollowingpiecesfromthefabricsasindicated.(FIGURE5)

fromgraywoolflannel:

KittyBody(cut2):11"×10"(28cm×25.5cm)KittyArms(cut2):4"×5"(10cm×12.5cm)KittyLegs(cut2):5"×5½"(12.5cm×14cm)KittyEars(cut2):3½"×3½"(9cm×9cm)

frompinkcraftfelt:KittyCheeks(cut2):¾"×¾"(2cm×2cm).Cuteachpieceintoafreehandcircle.InsideKittyEars(cutone):1½"×1½"(3.8cm×3.8cm)

fromwhitecraftfelt:KittyFace(cutone):4"×3½"(10cm×9cm).Cutthispieceintoafreehandovalshape.

fromblackcraftfelt:KittyShoes(cut2):4½"×2"(11.5cm×5cm)

fromredcotton:KittyBib(cutone):1½"×2½"(3.8cm×6.5cm).Trimoneendofthispieceintoacurve,asshown.

2.makethekitty’sfaceandbibFACE:Inthecenterofthekitty’sface,sketchanoseandmouth.(Don’tworryifit’salittlecrookedorimperfect,thataddstothecharm!)Usingblackembroideryfloss,embroiderthenoseusingasatinstitchandthemouthusingasplitstitch(seesidebar).

EYES:Positiontheeyesonthefaceandmarktheirplacementwithapen.Don’tattachtheeyesyet;justmarktheirpositionsothatyoucanplantheotherfacialfeatures.(FIGURE6)

Usingfusibleweb,fusethecheekstothefacebelowtheeyes.

Tothesidesoftheeyes,sketchlinesforthewhiskers.Embroiderthewhiskersusingasplitstitch.

FUSETHEFACETOTHEBODY:Using fusibleweb, fuse the face to thekitty’sbody. Install theeyesat themarkedpoints,carefullypiercingthroughboththefeltfaceandthefabricofthebody,andplacingthecapsofthesafetyeyesonthewrongside.

Turnunderthestraightshortedgeofthebibpiece¼"(6mm).PressandTopstitchtheturnededge.Usingfusibleweb,fusethebibtothebodybelowtheface.Withblackembroideryfloss,sewthe3buttonsontothebib.

3.makethekitty’sears,arms,andlegsRefertoFIGURE6.

EARS:Withrightsidestogether,foldeachearpieceinhalfdiagonally,andsewalongonerawedgewitha½"(13mm)seamallowance.Cliptheseamallowanceatthecorner.Turntheearsrightsideoutanduseapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners;press.

PINKOFEARS:Cutthe1½"(3.8cm)squareofpinkfeltinhalfdiagonallytoformthe2trianglesforthepinkoftheears.Usingfusibleweb,fuseonetriangletothefrontofeachear.Besuretofliptheearsbeforefusingsothattheslantedsidewillfacetotheinteriorforeachear,asshown.

ARMS:Withrightsidestogether,foldeacharmpieceinhalfsothatthe5"(12.5cm)sidesarealigned;pin.Witha½"(13mm)seamallowance,seweacharmtogetheralongtheraw5"(12.5cm)sideandoneshortend,leavingtheremainingshortendopen.Trimtheseam

allowanceatthecorners,turnrightsideout,anduseapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners.Presstheseams,andstuffthearmslightlywithfiberfill.

LEGS:Withrightsidestogether,foldeachleginhalflengthwisewithrawedgesaligned;pin.Witha½"(13mm)seamallowance,sewthelegstogetheralongthe5½"(14cm)sideandoneshortend,leavingtheremainingshortendopen.Trimtheseamallowanceatthecornersandturnrightsideoutandpokeoutthecorners.Presstheseams,andstuffthelegslightlywithfiberfill.

4.makethekitty’sshoes

Tomaketheopeningintheshoes,foldeachshoepieceinhalfwiththe2"(5cm)endsaligned.Onthefold,about½"(13mm)infromoneedge,makeahalf-ovalcutabout½"(13mm)longand½"(13mm)deep.Unfoldthepiece;you’llhaveanovalopeningabout1"(2.5cm)longand½"(13mm)deep.(FIGURE7)

Foreachshoepiece,bringthe2"(5cm)endstogethertoformaloop.Whipstitchthe2"(5cm)endstogether.Sliptheshoesontothelegsandwhipstitchthebottomclosed,catchingthefabricofthelegsinsomeofthestitchestoanchortheshoesinplace.

5.assemblemisskittyRefertoFIGURE6.

ATTACHTHEARMS,LEGS,ANDEARS:Withrightsidestogether,pinthearmstothebodyfront,aligningtherawendsofthearmswiththerawendsofthesidesofthebody,andcenteringthearmsbetweenthekitty’sfaceandbib.Withrightsidestogether,pinthelegstothebottomedgeofthekitty’sbody,aligningtherawendsandpositioningthelegs1½"(3.8cm)infromthecorners.Pintheearstothetopofthebody,½"(13mm)infromthecorners,withthepointsoftheearsontheoutside.

Sewthearms,legs,andearsinplaceusinga¼"(6mm)seamallowance.

JOINTHEFRONTANDBACK:Positionthefrontandbacktogetherwithrightsidestogetherandallrawedgesaligned(thearms,legs,andearsshouldbefacinginward,sandwichedbetweenthebodypieces).Pinwelltoavoidshifting,andsewthefrontandbackpiecestogetheronallsidesusinga½"(13mm)seamallowance,leavinganopeningonthebottomedgebetweenthelegsforstuffing.Besuretobackstitchatthebeginningand

endofthisseamtoreinforcesothestitchingdoesn’tunravelduringstuffing.

STUFFANDFINISH:Trimtheseamallowanceatthecorners.Carefullyturnthekittyrightsideout,useapointytooltogentlypokeoutthecorners,andstuffherwithfiberfill.Whipstitchtheopeningclosed.

Usingfabricglue,gluetherickrackaroundthesidesandcurvededgeofthebib.

GOGREEN!

Oldclothingisa fantasticsourceof fabric fornewsewingprojects.Scourthethriftstoreoryourownclosetsforpiecestoharvest.(Themen’ssectioninthriftstoresisagreat place to start, as the garments are usually larger and sometimes the dressierpiecesarebarelyworn.)To get themost from your garments, wash and dry them after you bring them

home.Cutapartthegarmentattheseams,beingcarefultopreserveasmuchsurfaceareaaspossible.Cutoffallthebuttonsandaddthemtoyourbuttonstash.Finally,sortyourfabricpiecesbycolorandfiber,andyourcollectionofupcycledfabricswillbereadyandwaitingforthesewingmachine!

fabricresourcesChoiceoffabriciskeywhenitcomestosewingsuccess.Herearemyfavoritesources,inNewYorkCityandonline,forfindingkillermaterials.(YoucanshopalltheNewYorkCitystoresontheweb,too.)

whereIshopforfabricinnewyorkcity

MOODFABRICS225West37thStreetNewYork,NY10018-5703www.moodfabrics.comIt’swheretheProjectRunwaycastmembersshop,andItoospentmany,manydaysherewhilemakingthisbook.Theirfabricselectionis,quitesimply,adream.

B&JFABRICS5257thAvenueNewYork,NewYork10018www.bandjfabrics.comAmust-stopwhenfabricshoppinginNewYorkCity,thisstorestockseverythingfromquiltingfabricstogarmentmaterials.

M&JTRIMMING10086thAvenueNewYork,NY10018www.mjtrim.comThislegendaryNewYorkshophaseverytrim,ribbon,andbuttonasewercouldeverwant.

IKEAwww.ikea.comIneverceasetobeamazedathowcoolIkea’sfabricsare;mostareheavydecoratorweightinboldpatterns.

PURLSOHO459BroomeStreetNewYork,NY10013www.purlsoho.comAnamazingonlineandbrick-and-mortarshopwithawonderfulcollectionoffabrics.

THECITYQUILTER133West25thStreet

NewYork,NY10001www.thecityquilter.comThisistheonlyhardcorequiltingshopinNewYorkCity,andIstophereoftenforeverythingIneed.

greatonlinesources

WWW.SUPERBUZZY.COMThiswebsitestocksatrulyirresistibleselectionofJapanesefabrics,notions,andsupplies.

WWW.PHATFABRIC.COMAgreatplacetobrowseforcoolfabricsthatyoumightnotfindinyourlocalshops.

WWW.ETSY.COMCheckhereforlotsofuniquefabrics(suchashand-printedindieoptions);individualsellersstocktheirshopwithcommercialfabrics,too.

WWW.REPRODEPOT.COMThissitefeaturesvintagefabricsaswellasvintagereproductions.

WWW.SEWZANNESFABRICS.COMAgoodplacetolookforcharmingchildren’sprints.

WWW.FABRICWORM.COMAfantasticsiteformodernfabrics,especiallyquiltingcottons.

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GrainoffabricGreetingcards,

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PixelatedThrowWonkyDiamondsOnPointWorld’sEasiestThrowPillow,

Interfacing,fusingIron,

Jewelrykeeper

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Lengthwisegrain

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Needleshand-sewingmachinethreading

9-to-5Folder,

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Techniques.SeealsoStitchesbastingquiltsbindingquiltsfabricbasicsandFrenchseamsinstallingzippersmakingstrapsquiltingquiltsstitchintheditchtrimmingcornersThreadall-purposeheavyweightThreadingneedlesToolsandsupplies.SeealsospecificitemsTopstitch

Totes.SeeBagsandtotesToys,MisterBunny&MissKittyTrimmingcorners,

Vinyl,workingwith

WhipstitchWidthoffabricWonkyDiamondsOnPointWorld’sEasiestThrowPillow,

ZigzagbeltZigzagstitchZippers,installing