Sewing Machine User Manual.pdf

8/20/2019 Sewing Machine User Manual.pdf

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Operation ManualComputerized Sewing Machine

APPENDIX

UTILITY STITCHES

SEWING BASICS

KNOWING YOURSEWING MACHINE


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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPIf this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please

IMPORTANTIf the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equoff and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approvthe plug.

NOTE

The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with baredhazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plapproved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as markedAlways replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

WARNINGDO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH ISLETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GR

The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following c

Blue Neutral

Brown Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not corremarkings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.

The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which i‘N’ or coloured black or blue.

The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which ‘L’ or coloured red or brown.


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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing

enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MAC

For safe operation1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the

up lever, needle, or other moving parts.

2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:• Operation is completed• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts• A power failure occurs during use• Maintaining the machine• Leaving the machine unattended

3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

For a longer service life1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity loc

store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinne

can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.3. Do not drop or hit the machine.

4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any afeet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

For repair or adjustmentIn the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourselplease consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to


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CONTENTS

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .............................NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ................

The main parts .....................................................................................................

Needle and presser foot section ..........................................................................

Operation buttons .................................................................................................

Operation panel ....................................................................................................Flat bed attachment .............................................................................................

ACCESSORIES .................................................................................Optional accessories ............................................................................................

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .................................................Power supply precautions ....................................................................................

Power supply ........................................................................................................

Foot controller ......................................................................................................

Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button) ...........Changing the needle stop position .......................................................................

THREADING THE MACHINE ..........................................................Winding the bobbin ..............................................................................................

Lower threading ...................................................................................................

Upper threading ...................................................................................................

Drawing up the lower thread ................................................................................

REPLACING THE NEEDLE ...............................................................Needle precautions ..............................................................................................

Needle types and their uses .................................................................................

Checking the needle ............................................................................................

Replacing the needle ...........................................................................................

Sewing with a twin needle ....................................................................................

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ....................................................Replacing the presser foot ...................................................................................

Removing the presser foot holder ........................................................................

2. SEWING BASICS ................................................................SEWING ..........................................................................................

General sewing procedure ...................................................................................

Selecting stitching ................................................................................................

Starting to sew .....................................................................................................

Thread tension .....................................................................................................


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———————————————————————————————————————

3. UTILITY STITCHES .............................................................OVERCASTING STITCHES ..............................................................

BASIC STITCHING ..........................................................................Basic stitching ......................................................................................................

BLIND HEM STITCHING .................................................................BUTTONHOLE SEWING .................................................................

Button sewing .......................................................................................................

ZIPPER INSERTION .........................................................................SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ...........................

Stretch stitching ....................................................................................................Elastic attaching ...................................................................................................

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ......................Appliqués .............................................................................................................

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ...........................................................................

Piecing .................................................................................................................

Quilting .................................................................................................................

Free-motion quilting .............................................................................................

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .......................................................Triple stretch stitching ..........................................................................................

Bar tack stitching ..................................................................................................

DECORATIVE STITCHING ..............................................................Fagoting ...............................................................................................................

Scallop stitching ...................................................................................................

Smocking .............................................................................................................

Shell tuck stitching ...............................................................................................

Joining ..................................................................................................................Heirloom stitching .................................................................................................

4. APPENDIX ..........................................................................STITCH SETTINGS ...........................................................................

Utility stitches .......................................................................................................

MAINTENANCE ..............................................................................Cleaning the machine surface ..............................................................................

Cleaning the bobbin case .....................................................................................TROUBLESHOOTING .....................................................................ERROR MESSAGES ..........................................................................

Operation beep (for models equipped with the operation beep) ..........................

INDEX .............................................................................................


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1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING M

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCT

The main parts

a Bobbin winder (page 11)This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as thelower thread.

b Spool pin (pages 11 and 16)This holds the spool of thread.

c Hole for extra spool pin (page 23)This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with twoneedles.

d Upper tension-control dial (page 29)This controls the tension of the upper thread

j Operation panel (page 7This is used to select the settings.

k HandwheelUsed to manually raise a

l Main power and sewing You can turn the main poon and off.

m Jack/socket connector (pInsert the plug on the pow


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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ——————————————————————

Needle and presser foot section

a Buttonhole leverLower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholesand bar tacks.

b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needlethreader) (page 17)

c Presser foot holderThe presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

d Presser foot holder screwUse the presser foot holdfoot holder in place.

e Presser footThe presser foot applies pfabric as the sewing takespresser foot for the select

f Feed dogsThe feed dogs feed the fa

g Quick-set bobbin (for moset bobbin)You can start sewing witho

h Bobbin coverOpen the bobbin cover to

i Needle plateThe needle plate is markestraight seams.

j Needle bar thread guidePass the upper thread thro

k Needle clamp screwUse the needle clamp scr

Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine opeThe operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.

a Presser foot leverRaise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower

■ Buttons provided on s


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Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front of thesewing machine, allows you to select a stitch andspecify how the stitch will be sewn.

a LCD (Liquid crystal display)The selected stitch (1), presser foot that should be used(2), stitch length in millimeters (3), and stitch width inmillimeters (4) are displayed.

b Stitch selection keysPress the stitch selection keys, and then select thenumber for the stitch that you wish to use. For details,refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).

c Stitch length adjustment keyPress this key to adjust the stitch length. (Press the “–”side to reduce the stitch length; press the “+” side toincrease the stitch length.)

d Stitch width adjustment key

Press this key to adjust the stitch width. (Press the “–”side to reduce the stitch width; press the “+” side toincrease the stitch width.)

Flat bed attachm

The accessories are storedthe flat bed attachment.

a Slide the flat bed atopen it.

a Flat bed attachmen

b Storage compartm

Note● Put the accessor

store the bag insaccessories are nout, and be lost


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ACCESSORIES

The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. We have designed thbe able to carry out most sewing tasks.

Note(For U.S.A. only)● Foot controller: Model T

This foot controller can be used on the following machine models:

CS-100, CS-6000, CS-6000i, CS-5100, CS-4000, BC-2500, BC-2300, BC-210ES-2000, ES-2410, ES-2210, ES-2010, ES-2420, ES-2220, ES-2020, EX-660, C

● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dea

Optional accessories

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

9. 10.

75/11 1 needle90/14 1 needle100/16 1 needle

11. 12. 13.

No. Part Name Part Code No. Part NameU.S.A. / Canada Others

1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-031 9 Bobbin (4)

2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031 10 Needle set

3 Monogramming foot “N” X53840-331 11 Twin needle

4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 12 Cleaning brush

5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-031 13 Screwdriver

6 Blind stitch foot “R” XC4051-031 14 Extra spool pin

7 Button fitting foot “M” X59375-121 15 Foot controller8 Seam ripper X54243-001

1 2 3 4


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USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

Power supply

a Insert the plug into a wall outlet.

c To turn off the macswitch to “ ”. The sewing lam

machine is turn

Note● If a power outag

machine is being

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other powe

fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine• After using the machine• When the power fails during use• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a• During electrical storms

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliancesor electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp t

the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pu

Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. Thescord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the mauthorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of timresult.

WARNING

CAUTION


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Foot controller

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket onthe rear side of the sewing machine.

a Foot controller jack/socket

When you press the foot controller down lightly, themachine will run at a low speed. When you pressharder, the machine’s speed will increase. When youtake your foot off the foot controller, the machinewill stop.

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the

foot controller when the machine is not in use.

Sewing speed co(for models equithe start/stop bu

a Slide the sewing speright to select the dSlide the sewing spsew at a slower specontroller to the rig

a Sewing speed cont

• The speed set usicontroller is the fosewing speed.

Changing the need

Normally, the sewing machi

the fabric when sewing is sto

be set to leave the needle rai

a Turn off the sewing

b Hold down the “–” key) on the left and After turning on the

the “–” side of (s

● When connecting the foot controller, be sure

to turn off the sewing machine in order toprevent the machine from accidentally beingstarted.

● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to buildup on the foot controller. Doing so could

fi l t i h k

CAUTION

Slower

Faster

CAUTION


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THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 13.

a Pre-tension diskb Bobbin winder shaftc Bobbin

a Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and d Put the bobbin onto

● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designmachine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.

● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins frommachine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this masame type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).

CAUTION

Actual size

This model Other models

11.5 mm(7/16 inch)


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■ For models equipped with the fast bobbinwinding system

a Follow steps1 through2 of the procedure in“Winding the bobbin” to pass the threadaround the pre-tension disk (page 11).

b Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaftso that the spring on the shaft fits into thenotch in the bobbin.

a Notchb Bobbin winder shaft spring

c Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

dWhile holding the thread that wraps around the

pre-tension disk with your left hand, use yourright hand to wind the free end of the threadclockwise around the bobbin five or six times.

e Pull the thread to the right and pass it throughthe slit in the bobbin winder seat.

f Slide the sewing sp(to set the speed towith the sewing spe

a Sewing speed cont

g Turn on the sewing

h Press the foot contstop button) (for mstart/stop button) t

Note● If the sewing mausing the foot cocontroller before

● When the foot cstart/stop button stop sewing (onlthe start/stop but

i When the bobbin byour foot off the fo(start/stop button) the start/stop butto

j Cut the thread, slidto the left and remo

k Slide the sewing sporiginal position (fothe sewing speed c

CAUTION


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Memo● When the sewing machine is started or the

handwheel is turned after winding thethread around the bobbin, the machine willmake a clicking sound; this is not amalfunction.

● The needle bar does not move when youslide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 15.

b Slide the button an

a Coverb Slide button

c

Put the bobbin in so

the direction show

• Only use bobbinused with this ma

d Hold the end of thedown with your finthread through the• Make sure that th

inserted through tof the bobbin casinsert the thread.

● Winding the bobbin improperly may causethe thread tension to loosen, breaking theneedle and resulting in injury.

a Wound evenlyb Wound poorly

● The bobbin was designed specifically for thissewing machine. If bobbins from othermodels are used, the machine will not operatecorrectly. Use only the enclosed bobbin orbobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,SFB: XA5539-151).

CAUTION

1 2

Actual size

11.5 mm(7/16 inch)

● Make sure you set theunrolls in the right dirin the wrong directiontension to be incorrec

CAUTION


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the right side (see arrow b) until the coverclicks into place.

• Replace the cover so that the end of thethread comes out from the left side of thecover (as shown by the line in the diagram).

■ For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

a Raise the needle to its highest position by turningthe handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) orpress (needle position button) (for modelsequipped with the needle position button), andraise the presser foot lever.

b Slide the button and open the cover.

a Cover

b Slide button

c Put the bobbin in, feed the end of the threadthrough the slit, and then pull the thread to cut it.

• Only use bobbins that were designed to beused with this machine.

• Make sure that thinserted through tof the bobbin cas

insert the thread.

a Tension-adjusting

Memo● The order that th

passed through tby marks aroundto thread the ma

d Replace the bobbinplace (see arrowathe right side (see aclicks into place.

1 2

CAUTION


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Upper threading

Set the upper thread and thread the needle.• For details on the needle threader, see page 17.

a Spool pinb Thread guidec Mark on the handwheel

a Raise the presser foot using the presser footlever. bRaise the needle bytoward you (countemark on the wheel (needle position buwith the needle posto raise the needle.

● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Otherwise, the thread could tanglCAUTION


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c Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, andthen put a spool of thread on this pin.

d Feed the upper thread as shown in the figureon the previous page.

e Make sure you guide the thread through thethread take-up lever from right to left.

a Thread take-up lever

f Put the thread behind the needle bar threadguide above the needle.The thread can easily be passed behind theneedle bar thread guide by holding the threadin your left hand, then feeding the thread withyour right hand.

a Needle bar thread guide

g Thread the needle from front to back and pullout about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread

Note● If the thread take

upper thread canthread take-up lethe presser foot llever before you

● If you incorrectlycause sewing pro

■ Using the needle thequipped with the n

a Follow steps1 thro“Upper threading”the needle bar thre

b Lower the presser f

c While lowering thehook the thread on

● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, oris set incorrectly, the thread may tangle onthe spool pin and cause the needle to break.

CAUTION

● The needle threader home sewing machin100/16. Check the taappropriate needle aIf you are using tranfilament thread, youthe range of 90/14-1

● You cannot use the nusing decorative thresuch as the twin neeIf you are using thos

needles, thread the eMake sure the main threading the needle

CAUTION


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d Fully lower the needle threader lever.

The end of the needle threader rotatestoward you and the hook passesthrough the eye of the needle.

e Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.

a Hookb Thread

f While lightly holding the thread, release theneedle threader lever. The hook will pull thethread through the needle.

g Pull out about 5 cmthe needle toward tmachine.

a 5 cm (2 inch)

Note● If you incorrectly

cause sewing pro


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Drawing up the lower thread

a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.

a Upper thread

b While holding the end of the upper thread,raise the needle either by turning thehandwheel toward you (counterclockwise) sothat the mark on the wheel points up or bypressing (needle position button) (formodels equipped with the needle positionbutton) once or twice.

c Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lowerthread.

d Pull out about 10 cand pull them towaunder the presser fo

a Upper threadb Lower thread

■ For models equippebobbinYou can begin sewingdrawing up the bobbingathers or darts, you cthread by hand so thatover. Before you drawthe bobbin back in.

a

Pass the thread alo

of the arrow, and lecutting it.

• The bobbin cove

b Draw up the lowersteps1 to4.

c Replace the bobbin

a Mark b Needle position button

or


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REPLACING THE NEEDLE

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle.precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instruct

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thfollowing table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that

● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend thmachine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in inj

CAUTION

Fabric Type/ApplicationThread

SType Size

Mediumweight

fabrics

Broadcloth Cotton thread60 – 80

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel,Gabardine Silk thread 50 – 80

Thinfabrics

Lawn Cotton thread60 – 80

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50 – 80

Thick

fabrics

Denim Cotton thread 30 – 50

Corduroy Synthetic thread50Tweed Silk thread

Stretchfabrics

JerseyThread for knits 50 – 60

B(g

Tricot

Cotton thread


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Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangeroussince the needle may break while the machine isbeing operated.Before using the needle, place the flat side of theneedle on a flat surface and check that the distance

between the needle and the flat surface is even.

a Flat sideb Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

a Flat surface

Replacing the ne

Replace the needle as desscrewdriver and a needleto be straight according to“Checking the needle” .

a Raise the needle bytoward you (countemark on the wheel equipped with raise the needle bytwice.)

b Turn off the sewing

c Lower the presser f

● The appropriate fabric, thread and needlecombinations are shown in the table on theprevious page. If the combination of thefabric, thread and needle is not correct,particularly when sewing thick fabrics (suchas denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to75/11), the needle may bend or break. Inaddition, the stitching may be uneven orpuckered or there may be skipped stitches.

CAUTION

1

2

1

a Mark

● Before replacing theoff the sewing mach

may occur if the foostop button is accidemachine starts sewin

or

CAUTION


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d Hold the needle with your left hand, and thenuse a screwdriver to turn the needle clampscrew counterclockwise to remove the

needle.

Note● The needle can be removed by simply

loosening the needle clamp screw aboutone turn. (If the needle clamp screw isloosened too much, the needle clamp(which holds the needle) may fall off.

Therefore, do not loosen the needle clampscrew too much.)

a Screwdriverb Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply strong force when loosening ortightening the needle clamp screw,otherwise certain parts of the sewingmachine may be damaged.

eWith the flat side of the needle toward therear of the machine, insert the needle until ittouches the needle stopper.

f While holding the nuse the screwdriveclamp screw by tur

Install the twin need

■ Installing the needleIf the needle clamp is

procedure below to at

a As seen from the frthe needle clamp othe needle clamp sand the needle bar bottom.

a dl l

● Be sure to insert the the needle stopper aneedle clamp screw otherwise the needlemay result.

CAUTION


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Sewing with a twin needle

We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threacolor or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch sett

■ Twin needle threading

a Attach the twin needle.Attach the twin needle in the same way as asingle needle (page 21).

b Attach the extra spool pin.Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top ofthe machine. Put the second spool of threadonto the extra spool pin.

a First spoolb Second spool

f Thread the right neDo not pass the threthread guide.

a Left needle thread thread guide.

b Right needle threabar thread guide.

c Needle bar thread

NoteModels equipped w● You cannot use t

thread the twin n

● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 13109could break, and damage the machine.

● Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.● You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread

from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwisethe machine may be damaged.

● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bbe damaged.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclthe needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the n

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the nmachine may be damaged.

● When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle before turningturned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.

CAUTION


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REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

a Raise the needle by turning the handwheeltoward you (counterclockwise) so that themark on the wheel points up. (With models

equipped with (needle position button),raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)

b If the sewing machine has been turned on,turn it off.

d Press the black butpresser foot holder

a Black buttonb Presser foot holder

e Place a different preso that the presser fshank in the holderPosition the presserthe presser foot typebe read.

a Presser foot holder

● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.

● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If yfoot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause

● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Usmay cause an accident or injury.

CAUTION


or

CAUTION


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f Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that thepresser foot pin snaps into the shank in thepresser foot holder.

a Presser foot lever The presser foot is attached.

g Raise the presser foot lever to check that thepresser foot is securely attached.

Removing the presser footholder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning thesewing machine or when installing a presser foot thatdoes not use the presser foot holder, such as thequilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove thepresser foot holder.

■ Removing the presser foot holder

a Remove the presser foot.• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 24).

b Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

■ Attaching the presse

a

Align the presser fo

left side of the pres

a Presser foot holderb Presser bar

b Hold the presser foyour right hand, anusing the screwdriv

a Screwdriverb Presser foot holderc Presser foot holder

Note● If the presser foo

installed, the thrincorrect.


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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————

2 SEWING BASICS

SEWING

Basic sewing operations are described below.Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle locationhands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwis

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may obreak.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in inj● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle m

CAUTION

1 Turn on themachine.Turn on the sewing machine.For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Pow

↓

2 Select the stitch. Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting st

↓

3

Attach the presser

foot.

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.

For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Refoot” (page 24).

↓

4 Start sewing.Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewthreads.


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Selecting stitching

Using the stitch selection keys, select the desiredstitch.When the sewing machine is turned on, the straightstitch ( left needle position) is selected.

a Turn on the sewing machine.

b Press (stitch selection keys). Thenumber of the selected stitch is displayed.

Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or

reduce the number by one. Pressing on the

right changes the digit on the right and pressing

on the left changes the digit on the left.

The stitch is selected.

c Attach the presser foot.

Note● The presser foot to be used is indicated bythe letter (G, A, J, N, or R) below tothe right of the stitch number.

■ [Example] Selecting st

a Press the stitch selec

With on the righon the left, select “0

b Press the “+” or “–length adjustment kthe stitch length.

a Stitch length adjusb Shortc Long

c Press the “+” or “–”adjustment key) to stitch width.

a Stitch width adjustb Narrowc Wide

Note● When the stitch

changed from tharound or When the stitch reset back to thereappears aroun

SEWING BASICS


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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————

Starting to sew

a Raise the needle by turning the handwheeltoward you (counterclockwise) so that the markon the wheel points up. (With models equippedwith (needle position button), raise theneedle by pressing once or twice.)

b

Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

c Place the fabric under the presser foot, passthe thread under the presser foot, and thenpull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread towardthe rear of the machine.

a 5 cm (2 inch)

e Lower the presser f

a Presser foot lever

f On models equippecontroller, slide theto the left or right tRefer to “Sewing sp

a Sewing speed cont

g Slowly press down (With models equipbutton), if the foot cpress once.)

The machine s

h Take your foot off t(start/stop butto


or

o


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k Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,and then pass the threads through the threadcutter to cut them.

a Thread cutter

Memo● When the foot controller is plugged in,

(start/stop button) cannot be used to start orstop sewing.

● When sewing is stopped, the needle remainslowered (in the fabric). The machine can beset so that the needle will stay up whensewing is stopped. For details on setting themachine so that the needles stay up whensewing is stopped, refer to “Changing theneedle stop position” (page 10).

■ Sewing reinforcement stitchesWhen sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag

stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,

pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)

sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top

of each other.

Thread tension

The thread tension will afstitches. You may need tofabric or thread.

Memo● We recommend

on scrap of a fab

■ Correct tensionCorrect tension is implittle tension will weakpuckers on your fabric

■ Upper tension is too tLoops will appear on t

SolutionReduce the tensio

tension-control di

■ Upper tension is too loLoops appear on the w1 2

1

2

3

4

1

2

3

4

5

5

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————


31/66

SEWING BASICS

USEFUL SEWING TIPS

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below.sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you select a stitch, the machine automaticallysets the stitch width and length for the stitch that isselected.However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,depending on the type of fabric and stitching beingsewn, the desired results may not be achieved.For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and threadthat are the same as those used for your project, andcheck the thread tension and stitch length and width.Since the results differ depending on the type ofstitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,

perform the trial sewing under the same conditionsthat will be used with your project.

Changing the sewingdirection

a

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

sewing machine.Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If theneedle was raised, lower the needle either byturning the handwheel toward you(counterclockwise) or by pressing (needleposition button) once (for models equippedwith the needle position button).

c Lower the presser fsewing.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slidirection to sew around t

When sewing along a custitch, select a shorter stita finer stitch.

Sewing thick fab

■ If the fabric does not fIf the fabric does not fifoot, raise the presser fbring the presser foot t

● When using the twin needle, be sure to raisethe needle before changing the sewingdirection. If the fabric is turned while theneedle is lowered, the needle may bend or

CAUTION


32/66

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric doesnot feed at the beginning of stitchingZigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that

keeps the presser foot level.

a Sewing direction

a When you encounter a seam that is too thickto feed under the foot, raise the presser footlever.

b Press the black button on the left side of thefoot. Keep the button held in and lower thepresser foot.

a Black button

c Release the button. The foot will lock in placelevel with the seam, allowing the fabric tofeed.

• Once the trouble spot has been passed, the

Sewing thin fabr

When sewing thin fabricsmisaligned or the fabric mthis occurs, place thin paunder the fabric and sew When you have finished paper.

a Stabilizer material

Sewing stretch f

First, baste the pieces of fsew without stretching th

a Basting

Using a free-arm

Free-arm sewing is conve

and hard-to-reach areas. Tthe free-arm style, lift out

a Slide the flat bed atrelease it.

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————


33/66

3 UTILITY STITCHES

OVERCASTING STITCHES

You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one ouseful for sewing stretch materials.

*Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: Reinforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching.

a Attach overcasting foot “G” or zigzag foot “J”.

bSelect a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”(page 27).

c Position the fabric with the edge of the fabrici t th id f th f t d th

d Sew with the edge presser foot guide.

Stitch Name P a t t e r n

P r e s s e r F o o t Pattern No.

Application

Stitch Width[mm (inch.)] Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Zigzag stitch J 04 04 04 04 Overcasting and attach-ing appliqués3.5

(1/8)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.4(1/16)

3-point zig-zag stitch J 05 05 05 05

Overcasting on medium

weight or stretch fabrics,attaching elastic, darn-ing, etc.

5.0(3/16) 1.5–7.0(1/16–1/4) 1.0(1/16)

Overcastingstitch

G 06 06 06 06 Overcasting on thin ormedium weight fabrics3.5

(1/8)2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)2.0

(1/16)

G 07 07 07 07 Overcasting on thick fab-rics5.0

(3/16)2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)2.5

(3/32)

J 08 08 08 08 Overcasting on stretchfabrics5.0

(3/16)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.5(3/32)


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BASIC STITCHING

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for bas

*Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: Reinforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching.

Basic stitching

a Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

b Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c Select a stitch.• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”

(page 27).

d Lower the needle into the fabric at thebeginning of the stitching.

e Start sewing.• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”

(page 28).

f When sewing is fin• For details, refer t

(page 28).

■ Changing the needle pWith the straight stitchthe triple stretch stitch,adjusted. Pressing the adjustment key moves

pressing the “–” side oadjustment key moves



Application

Stitch Width[mm (inch.)]

Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

S t r a i g h t Left J 00 00 00 00

Basic stitching, sewing

gathers or pintucks, etc.

0.0

(0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

Center J 01 01 01 01Attaching zippers, basicstitching, and sewinggathers or pintucks, etc.

– – 2.5(3/32)

Triplestretch stitch J 02 02 02 02

Attaching sleeves, sew-ing inseams, sewingstretch fabrics and deco-rative stitching

0.0(0)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.5(3/32)



35/66

BLIND HEM STITCHING

You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trous

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

a Fold the fabric along the desired edge of thehem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch)from the edge of the fabric. Fold back the fabric

along the basting, and then position the fabricwith the wrong side facing up.

b Attach blind hem foot “R”.

c Select a stitch.

d Position the fabric with the edge of the foldedhem against the guide of the presser foot, andthen lower the presser foot lever.

■ If the needle catches tIf the needle catches toadjust the stitch width

catches the fold by prestitch width adjustmen

■ If the needle does not If the needle does not the stitch width so thatthe fold by pressing theadjustment key.



Application


Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Blind hemstitch

R 09 09 09 09 Blind hem stitching onmedium weight fabrics0(0) 3 – –3

2.0(1/16)

R 10 10 10 10 Blind hem stitching onstretch fabrics0(0) 3 – –3

2.0(1/16)

a Wrong side of fabricb Basting

c Desired edge of hemd 5 mm (3/16 inch)

a Wrong side of fabric

a Wrong side of fabric


36/66

BUTTONHOLE SEWING

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.

*Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement **Rfc.: Reinforcement

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.



Application


Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Buttonholestitch

A 29 29 29 25Horizontal buttonholeson thin and mediumweight fabrics

5.0

(3/16)

3.0-5.0

(1/8-3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

A 30 30 30 26Secured buttoholes forfabrics that have back-ings

5.0(3/16)

3.0–5.0(1/8-3/16)

0.4(1/64)

A 31 31 31 27Buttonholes for stretch orknit fabrics

6.0(15/64)

3.0–6.0(1/8-15/64)

1.0(1/16)

A 32 32 32 28Buttonholes for stretchfabrics

6.0(15/64)

3.0–6.0(1/8-15/64)

1.5(1/16)

A 33 33 33 29 Keyhole buttonholes forthick or furry fabrics

7.0(1/4)

3.0–7.0(1/8-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

A 34 34 – –Keyhole buttonholes formedium weight and thickfabrics

7.0(1/4)

3.0–7.0(1/8-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

A 35 35 – – Keyhole buttonholes forthick or furry fabrics 7.0(1/4) 3.0–7.0(1/8-1/4) 0.5(1/32)

Zigzag stitch(for quilting) J 40 40 – –

Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satinstitching, button sewing

3.5(1/8)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.4(1/16)



37/66

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which isused for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

a Button guide plateb Presser foot scalec Pind Marks on buttonhole foote 5 mm (3/16 inch)

a Use chalk to mark the position and length ofthe buttonhole on the fabric.

a Marks on fabric

b Pull out the button guide plate of buttonholefoot “A”, and then insert the button that willbe put through the buttonhole.

■ If the button doesplateAdd together the dthe button, and thplate to the calculbetween the markscale is 5 mm (3/1

a Presser foot scale

b Length of buttonho(Diameter + thicknc 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button (9/16 inch) and a thickthe button guide plate (1 inch) on the scale.

a 10 mm (3/8 inch)b 15 mm (9/16 inch)

c Attach buttonhole f

d Select a stitch.

e Position the fabric buttonhole mark al

A

1

2

5

3

4

1

1

2

2


38/66

• When lowering the presser foot, do not pushin the front of the presser foot, otherwise thebuttonhole will not be sewn with the correctsize.

a Do not reduce the gap.

f Pull down the buttonhole lever as far aspossible.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind thebracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole leverb Bracket

g Gently hold the end of the upper thread inyour left hand, and then start sewing.

h Raise the presser fofabric, and cut the

iRaise the buttonhoposition.

j Insert a pin at the estitching to preventcut, and then use a the pin and open th

a Seam ripperb Pin

For keyhole buttonheyelet punch to maend of the buttonhoripper to cut open t

a Eyelet punch

• When using the e

paper or some otthe fabric before fabric.

1

2

CAUTION



39/66

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabricsWhen sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use agimp thread.

a Hook the gimp thread onto the part ofbuttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustrationso that it fits into the grooves, and thenloosely tie it.

b Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c Select a stitch or .

d Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of thegimp thread.

e Lower the presser foot lever and thebuttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

f When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimpthread to remove any slack.

Button sewing

Buttons can be sewn on w

Buttons with 2 or with 4 h

a Measure the distanbutton to be attach

b Raise the presser fofeed dog position lethe machine on theas seen from the fro

a Feed dog position (as seen from the r

The feed dogs


40/66

d Place a button between the presser foot andthe fabric.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sewthe two holes closest to you. Then, slide the

button so that the needle goes into the twoholes toward the rear of the sewing machine,and then sew them in the same way.

e Select a stitch . (With models not providedwith stitch , select stitch .)

f Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same asthe distance between the holes in the button.

gSet the stitch length to the shortest setting bypressing the stitch length adjustment key.

h Turn the handwhee(counterclockwise)correctly goes into button.Adjust the stitch widthe button holes.

i Start sewing.• After sewing for a

speed, press (button) to sew rei

j Pull the upper threstitching to the wrothen tie it with the Use scissors to cut tbobbin thread at th

● When sewing, be surnot touch the button

may bend or break.

CAUTION



41/66

ZIPPER INSERTION

You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily positionthe needle.When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipperside of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.

*Rev.: Reverse **Do not use reverse stitching.

a Zipper footb Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipperc Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper

a Select stitch .

b Lower the presser foot lever and fix either theleft or right pin of the zipper foot onto theshank.

cFold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch)and place the zipper under the folded section.Lower the needle into the notch located eitheron the left or right side of the zipper foot.

d Sew from the bottotop on both sides. Tpositioned on the z

best results.

e To sew the oppositethe foot by pressingback of the presser

the other side of thsewing using the ot


P

r e s s e r F o o t Pattern No.

Application


Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Straightstitch

(center)I 01 01 01 01

Attaching zippers, basicstitching, and sewinggathers or pintucks, etc.

– – 2.5(3/32)

1 2

3

CAUTIONCAUTION


42/66

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAP

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitc

Stretch stitching

a Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b Select stitch .

c Sew the fabric without stretching it.

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of apiece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be thatof the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessarythat a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

a Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

b Attach zigzag foot

c Select stitch .

d Sew the elastic tapestretching the tape as the fabric.While pulling the fabwith your left hand, p

the front of the presse



Application


Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Stretch stitch J 03 03 03 03 Sewing stretch fabricsand decorative stitching1.0

(1/16)1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)2.5

(3/32)

3-pointzigzag stitch J 05 05 05 05

Overcasting on mediumweight or stretch fabrics,attaching elastic, darn-ing, etc.

5.0(3/16)

1.5–7.0(1/16–1/4)

1.0(1/16)



43/66

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHIN

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are describ



Application


Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Zigzag stitch J 04 04 04 04 Overcasting and attach-

ing appliqués

3.5

(1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

Zigzag stitch(for quilting) J 40 40 - -

Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satinstitching

3.5(1/8)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.4(1/16)

Appliquéstitch J 11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching

3.5(1/8)

2.5–5.0(3/32–3/16)

2.5(3/32)

Appliquéstitch

(for quilting)

J 41 41 - -

Attaching appliqués and

binding

1.5

(1/16)

0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.2

(1/16)

J 42 42 - - Attaching appliqués andbinding1.5

(1/16)0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)1.2

(1/16)

Piecingstraightstitch

J 37 37 - -

Piecing straight stitching(with a seam allowanceof 6.5mm from the rightedge of the presser foot)

5.5(7/32)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.6(1/16)

J 38 38 - -


1.5(1/16)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.6(1/16)

Joining stitch

J 14 14 14 14Patchwork stitching anddecorative stitching

4.0(3/16)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.2(1/16)

J 15 15 15 15

Patchwork stitching, dec-orative stitching and sew-ing overcasting on bothpieces of fabrics, such aswith tricot

5.0(3/16)

2.5–7.0(3/32–1/4)

2.5(3/32)

J 16 16 16 16 Patchwork stitching anddecorative stitching5.0

(3/16)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.2(1/16)

Hand-lookquilting J 39 39 35 31

Straight stitch quiltingthat looks hand-sewn

0.0(0)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.5(3/32)


44/66

d Carefully sew around the edge of the design.

e Cut away any fabric that is left outside the stitching.

fRemove the basting, if necessary.

Memo● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the

beginning and the end of stitching.

Patchwork (crazy quilt)

stitchinga Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric andplace it over the lower piece.

b Sew the two pieces of fabric together so theb h i

Piecing

Sewing together two piec

“piecing”. The fabric piec6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam aSew a piecing straight stiteither the right side or the

a Baste or pin along tfabric that you wish

b

Attach zigzag foot

c Select stitch or

d Sew with the side owith the edge of th■ For a seam allowa

Align the right side

edge of the fabric,

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

■ For a seam allowaAlign the left side

edge of the fabric,

● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pinduring sewing, as the needle can break. Youmay also be injured.

CAUTION

1



45/66

Quilting

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom

layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easilybe sewn using the optional walking foot and theoptional quilting guide.

Note● Only use the walking foot with straight or

zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.

Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with thewalking foot.

a Baste the fabric to be quilted.

b Remove the presser foot and the presser footholder.• For details, refer to “Removing the presser

foot holder” (page 25).

c Hook the connecting fork of the walking footonto the needle clamp screw, lower thepresser foot lever, and then use the presserfoot holder screw to attach the walking foot

to the presser bar.

a Connecting forkb Needle clamp screwc Presser foot holder screw

e Place one hand on foot, and then evensewing.

Note● When sewing w

a speed between

■ Using the optional quiUse the quilting guide

are equally spaced.

a Insert the stem of tthe rear of the walkholder.

Walking foot

Presser foot holde

d Slid th f d d


46/66

Free-motion quilting

With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be

lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so thatthe fabric can be moved freely in any direction.The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motionquilting.

a Remove the presser foot and the presser footholder.• For details, refer to “Removing the presser

foot holder” (page 25).

b Align the quilting foot with the lower-left sideof the presser bar.The pin on the quilting foot should bepositioned over the needle clamp screw.

a Pin on quilting footb Presser foot holder screwc Needle clamp screw

cHold the quilting foot in place with your righthand, and then tighten the presser foot holderscrew using the screwdriver in your left hand.

d Slide the feed dog prear of the machinethe right as seen fro

a Feed dog position (as seen from the r

The feed dogs

e Turn on the sewingstitch.

f Use both hands to move the fabric to Reinforcement stitcbeginning and end



47/66

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING

Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and poc

*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement

Triple stretch stitching

Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holesand inseams.


b Select stitch .

c Start sewing.• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”

(page 28).

Bar tack stitchin

Bar tacks are used to reinstrain, such as pocket corAs an example, the procepocket corners is describe

a Determine the desiSet the button guide“A” to the desired l

between the markinis 5 mm (3/16 inch)



Application


Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Triple

stretch stitch J 02 02 02 02

Attaching sleeves, sew-ing inseams, sewing

stretch fabrics and deco-rative stitching

0.0

(0)

0.0-7.0

(0-1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

Bar tackstitch A 36 36 34 30

Reinforcing openingsand areas where theseam easily comes loose

2.0(1/16)

1.0-3.0(1/16-1/8)

0.4(1/64)

1

c Select stitch e Pull down the butto


48/66

c Select stitch .

dPosition the fabric so that the opening of thepocket faces toward you, and then lower thepresser foot lever so that the needle drops2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocketopening.

a 2 mm (1/16 inch)

Pass the upper thread down through the holein the presser foot.• When lowering the presser foot, do not push

in the front of the presser foot, otherwise thebar tack will not be sewn with the correctsize.

a Do not reduce the gap.

e Pull down the buttopossible.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole levebracket on the butto

a Buttonhole lever

b Bracket

f Gently hold the endyour left hand, and

Once sewing ismachine automreinforcement

g Raise the presser fofabric, and cut the

h Raise the buttonhoposition.

Memo

1



49/66

DECORATIVE STITCHING

Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.



Application


Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Fagotingstitch

J 17 17 17 17 Fagoting, smocking anddecorative stitching5.0

(3/16)0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

2.5(3/32)

J 18 18 18 18 Fagoting, smocking anddecorative stitching

5.0(3/16)

2.5-7.0(3/32-1/4)

2.5(3/32)

Joining stitch


(3/16)0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

1.2(1/16)

J 15 15 15 15

Patchwork stitching, deco-rative stitching and sewingovercasting on both pieces

of fabrics, such as with tricot

5.0(3/16)

2.5-7.0(3/32-1/4)

2.5(3/32)


(3/16)0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

1.2(1/16)

Shell tuckstitch J 12 12 12 12 Sell tuck stitching

4.0(3/16)

0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

2.5(3/32)

Satin scallopstitch N 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching

5.0(3/16)

2.5-7.0(3/32-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

J 19 19 19 19 Decorative stitching 4.0(3/16)0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

3.0(1/8)


2.5(3/32)

J 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching 5.5(7/32)0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

1.6(1/16)

N 22 22 22 21Decorative stitching andelastic-attaching

5.0(3/16)

1.5-7.0(1/64-1/4)

1.0(1/16)

N 23 23 23 22Lace sewing, decorativeh i h i l 3.5 1.5-7.0 2.5


50/66

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It

is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitchis more decorative when thicker thread is used.

a Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabricalong their seams.

b Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated byabout 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper ora sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizerb Basting stitchingc 4 mm (3/16 inch)

c Attach zigzag foot “J”.

d Select stitch or .

e Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”(page 27).

f Sew with the center of the presser footaligned along the center of the two pieces offabric.

Scallop stitching

The wave-shaped repeati

shells is called “scallopinof blouses and to decorathandkerchiefs.

a Attach monogramm

b

Select stitch .

c Stitch along the edgsure not to sew direfabric.

• For better results,fabric and press wsewn.

d Trim along the stitc

• Be careful not to

1

2

3


g Pull out the threads


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Smocking

The decorative stitch created by stitching or

embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It isused to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity tofabric.


bSelect the straight stitch, and then adjust thestitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosenthe thread tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”(page 27) and “Thread tension” (page 29).

c Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm(3/8 inch).

a 1 cm (3/8 inch)• Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or

cut the thread.

d Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

g

Shell tuck stitchThe gathers that look liketucks”. They are used to dblouses or cuffs made of t

a Fold the fabric alon

b Attach zigzag foot

c Select stitch , antension.• For details, refer t

(page 27).

d Sew while making sslightly off the edge

1

e Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks


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e down to one side.

JoiningDecorative bridging stitches can be sewn over theseam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used whenmaking a crazy quilt.


b Sew together the right sides of the two piecesof fabric, and then open up the seamallowances.

a Wrong side of fabricb 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowancec Straight stitch

c Select stitch , or .

d Turn the fabric over so that the right sidefaces up and then sew over the seam with the

Heirloom stitchi

When sewing with the wi

are enlarged, creating a laThis is used to decorate hor medium weight fabricsfabrics.

a Insert the wing nee

• Use a 130/705H • For details on ins

“Replacing the ne

b

Attach monogramm

c Select stitch , 1

1

2

3

● The needle threader wing needle, otherwmay be damaged. Mthrough the eye of thto the back. For detathreading” (page 16)

● Select a stitch width

or less, otherwise thebreak.● After adjusting the st

the handwheel towa(counterclockwise) adoes not touch the p

CAUTION

CAUTION

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————

4


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4 APPENDIX

STITCH SETTINGS

Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used arethe following table.

Utility stitches

● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bbe damaged.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the nmachine may be damaged.

CAUTION



Application


Stitch[mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

S t r a i g h

t

Left J 00 00 00 00 Basic stitching, sewinggathers or pintucks, etc.0.0(0)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.5(3/32)

Center J 01 01 01 01Attaching zippers, basicstitching, and sewinggathers or pintucks, etc.

– – 2.5(3/32)

Triplestretch stitch J 02 02 02 02

Attaching sleeves, sew-ing inseams, sewingstretch fabrics and deco-rative stitching

0.0(0)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.5(3/32)

Stretch stitch J 03 03 03 03 Sewing stretch fabrics

and decorative stitching

1.0

(1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

2.5

(3/32)

Zigzag stitch J 04 04 04 04 Overcasting and attach-ing appliqués3.5

(1/8)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.4(1/16)

3 point zigOvercasting on mediumweight or stretch fabrics 5 0 1 5 7 0 1 0

Pattern NoStitch Width[ ( h )]

Stitch[


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Application

[mm (inch.)] [mm

7 0 s

t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

6 0 s

t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

5 0 s

t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

4 0 s

t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Blind hemstitch

R 09 09 09 09 Blind hem stitching onmedium weight fabrics0(0) 3 – –3

2.0(1/16)

R 10 10 10 10 Blind hem stitching onstretch fabrics0(0) 3 – –3

2.0(1/16)

Appliquéstitch J 11 11 11 11 Appliqué stitching

3.5(1/8)

2.5–5.0(3/32–3/16)

2.5(3/32)

Shell tuckstitch J 12 12 12 12 Shell tuck stitching

4.0(3/16)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.5(3/32)

Satin scallopstitch N 13 13 13 13 Scallop stitching

5.0(3/16)

2.5-7.0(3/32-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

Joining stitch

J 14 14 14 14 Patchwork stitching anddecorative stitching 4.0(3/16) 0.0–7.0(0–1/4) 1.2(1/16)

J 15 15 15 15

Patchwork stitching, dec-orative stitching and sew-ing overcasting on bothpieces of fabrics, such aswith tricot

5.0(3/16)

2.5–7.0(3/32–1/4)

2.5(3/32)


(3/16)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.2(1/16)

Fagotingstitch


(3/16)0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

2.5(3/32)


(3/16)2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)2.5

(3/32)


3.0(1/8)

J 20 20 20 20 Decorative stitching4.0

(3/16)0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

2.5(3/32)

J 21 21 21 – Decorative stitching 5.5(7/32)0.0-7.0(0-1/4)

1.6(1/16)

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————

t Pattern No.Stitch Width[ (i h )]

Stitch[


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Application

[mm (inch.)] [mm

7 0 s

t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

6 0 s

t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

5 0 s

t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

4 0 s

t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Decorativestitch

N 26 26 26 24

Decorative hemming onthin, medium weight andplain weave fabrics, heir-loom stitching, etc.

5.0(3/16)

1.5-7.0(1/16-1/4)

4.0(3/16)

N 27 27 27 –

Decorative hemming onthin, medium weight andplain weave fabrics, heir-loom stitching, etc.

5.0(3/16)

1.5-7.0(1/16-1/4)

2.5(3/32)

N 28 28 28 –

Decorative hemming onthin, medium weight and

plain weave fabrics, heir-loom stitching, etc.

5.0

(3/16)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

Buttonholestitch

A 29 29 29 25Horizontal buttonholeson thin and mediumweight fabrics

5.0(3/16)

3.0-5.0(1/8-3/16)

0.4(1/64)

A 30 30 30 26Secured buttonholes forfabrics that have back-ings

5.0(3/16)

3.0–5.0(1/8-3/16)

0.4(1/64)

A 31 31 31 27 Buttonholes for stretch orknit fabrics 6.0(15/64) 3.0–6.0(1/8-15/64) 1.0(1/16)

A 32 32 32 28 Buttonholes for stretchfabrics6.0

(15/64)3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)1.5

(1/16)

A 33 33 33 29 Keyhole buttonholes forthick or furry fabrics

7.0(1/4)

3.0–7.0(1/8-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

A 34 34 – – Keyhole buttonholes formedium weight and thickfabrics

7.0(1/4) 3.0–7.0(1/8-1/4) 0.5(1/32)

A 35 35 – – Keyhole buttonholes forthick or furry fabrics7.0

(1/4)3.0–7.0(1/8-1/4)

0.5(1/32)

Bar tackstitch A 36 36 34 30

Reinforcing openingsand areas where theseam easily comes loose

2.0(1/16)

1.0–3.0(1/16-1/8)

0.4(1/64)

Piecingstraightstitch

J 37 37 - -


5.5(7/32)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.6(1/16)

J 38 38 - -


1.5(1/16)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.6(1/16)

t Pattern No.Stitch Width[mm (inch )]

Stitch[mm


56/66


P r e s s e r F o o t

Application

[mm (inch.)] [mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Appliquéstitch

(for quilting)


(1/16)0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)1.2

(1/16)


(1/16)0.5–5.0

(1/32–3/16)1.2

(1/16)

Quilting

stippling J 43 43 - -Quilting background

stitching (stippling)

7.0

(1/4)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.6

(1/16)

Decorativestitch

N 44 44 36 32 For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.5(3/32)


2.0(1/16)

N 46 46 38 - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4) 0.0–7.0(0–1/4) 2.5(3/32)

N 47 - - - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.5(3/32)

N 48 47 39 - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)

0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.0(1/16)

N 49 48 40 - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4) 0.0–7.0(0–1/4) 2.0(1/16)


1.6(1/16)


2.5(3/32)


2.0(1/16)

N 53 - - - For decoration, etc.5.0

(3/16)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

2.0(1/16)

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————

o t Pattern No.

Stitch Width[mm (inch )]

Stitch[mm


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P r e s s e r F o o

Application

[mm (inch.)] [mm

7 0 s t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

6 0 s t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

5 0 s t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

4 0 s t i t c h e s

m

o d e l

Auto Manual Auto

Satinstitches

N 57 52 42 - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)0.4

(1/64)

N 58 - - - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)0.4

(1/64)

N 59 53 43 35 For decoration, etc.

7.0

(1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.4

(1/64)

N 60 54 44 36 For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)0.4

(1/64)

N 61 55 45 - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)0.4

(1/64)

N 62 56 46 37 For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4) 2.5–7.0(3/32–1/4) 0.4(1/64)

N 63 - - - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)0.4

(1/64)

N 64 - - - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4)

2.5–7.0(3/32–1/4)

0.4(1/64)

Cross-stitches

N 65 - - - For decoration, etc. 7.0(1/4) 0.0–7.0(0–1/4) 1.6(1/16)


1.4(1/16)


2.5(3/32)

N 68 58 48 - For decoration, etc. 6.0(15/64)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.4(1/16)

N 69 59 49 39 For decoration, etc.6.0

(15/64)0.0–7.0(0–1/4)

1.4(1/16)

MAINTENANCE


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MAINTENANCE

Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.

Cleaning the machinesurface

If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak acloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, andthen wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning

it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a drycloth.

Cleaning the bob

Sewing performance will bobbin case; therefore, it periodically.

a Switch the machine

b Raise the needle an

c Loosen the presser-clamp screw to remholder and the nee

d Grasp both sides ofand then slide it towneedle plate cover.

● Unplug the power supply cord beforecleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or anelectric shock may occur.

CAUTION● Make sure you unplu

you clean it. Otherwelectric shock or be

CAUTION

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————

e Remove the bobbin case.Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out. hPut the tabs on the needle plate, and th


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p , p

a Bobbin case

f Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner toremove any dust from the race and itssurrounding area.

a Cleaning brushb Race

• Do not put oil on the bobbin case.

gInsert the bobbin case so that the projectionon the bobbin case aligns with the spring.

p ,

1

2

1

● Never use a bobbin cotherwise the upper tangled, the needle mperformance may sucase (part code: XC3nearest authorized s

● Make sure that you fproperly, otherwise

CAUTION

TROUBLESHOOTING


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TROUBLESHOOTING

If the machine stops working properly, check the following possible problems.If the problem it still there, contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service cen

Symptom Possible cause How to put it ri

The sewingmachine doesnot work.

The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in.

The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power

The bobbin winder shaft is pushed toth

Documents

Sewing Machine User Manual.pdf