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Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 1 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
CONTENTS PAGES
Acknowledgement 02
1.0 Objective of the internship 03
2.0 Role of Garment Industry in Indian GDP 04
3.0 Introduction to the company 05
A. Departmental Study
4.0 Plant lay out 11
5.0 Merchandising 15
6.0 Sampling 18
7.0 Planning 21
8.0 Industrial Engineering Department 24
9.0 Fabric Store 29
10.0 Trim and Accessory Store 36
11.0 Cutting 40
12.0 Embroidery 48
13.0 Production (Sewing) 52
14.0 Washing 57
15.0 Quality Assurance 62
16.0 Finishing and Packaging 69
17.0 Human Resources 75
B. Style study 80
C. Appendixes 98
D. Project 116
18.0 Project I
Maintenance and machine movement database 117
19.0 Project II
Spare Register 132
20.0 Project III
On line implementation of finishing machine 153
21.0 Project IV
Efficiency Analysis 158
21.0 Learning Experience 167
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 2 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Acknowledgement
Our Internship at Shahi Exports Pvt. ltd., unit-09, Bengaluru was a fleeting journey of erudition
where we achieved an unparalleled blend of learning and experience. We would like to extend our
whole hearted thanks to the entire Shahi unit-9 Team for providing their immense support constantly.
Above all we would like to thank Mr. Sreedhar , General Manager
(Operations) and Mr. Mahadeve Gowda (AGM-HR) , who made this internship possible for us. We
would also like to convey our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. Raghuveer (factory manager) . Considering our
exposure to all the departments, we would also extend our thanks Mr. Bheema Reddy, (I.E and
industry mentor) who helped us in every way he could. We also thank Ms. Pavitra (HR) and Ms.
Krishnapriya (IE) for their help and support.
We would also like to convey thanks to our institute National
Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur for arranging such an opportunity for us. We would also
extend our thanks to Mr. Chandramouli (assistant faculty and internship mentor, NIFT Kann ur)
and Mr. Chakravarty (assistant faculty, NIFT Kannur) for helping and guiding us with our projects
and the documentation.
Without the help of these people, this Internship would not have been a success. So we thank them all from
the core of our heart.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 3 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
1.0 OBJECTIVE
Garment Industry is kind of a field where practical knowledge and personal experience matters the
most in tackling critical situations and taking major decisions. Thus on job experience is much needed
along with through subject knowledge.
The objective of this summer internship was:
To gain practical exposure on real life on job experience. To apply the theoretical class room knowledge in practical situations. It aims toward blending the theoretical knowledge with work experience. To observe the process flow from order placement till shipment. Learn the various manufacturing process. To work on a mutually identified problem or assignment or project and work on it.
1.1 STATEMENT OF STUDY
To study the garment manufacturing process thoroughly, to observe and execute different department
functions and to execute small projects/assignments as per organizational need.
1.2 SIGNIFICANCE OF STUDY
The study will help gain hands on experience on various manufacturing processes like cutting, sewing,
finishing, checking, data generation and use of IT tools in various stages of garment manufacturing.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 4 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
2.0 ROLE OF GARMENT INDUSTRY IN INDIAN GDP
The garment industry comprises manufacturers of ready-made garments for both the domestic and
export markets. This sector is one of the largest employer after agriculture and its importance in Indias
economy is recognized for its contribution to industrial production and export earnings.
The Apparel Manufacturing Industry transforms fabrics produced by textile manufacturers into clothing
and accessories that fill the retail stores. By cutting and sewing fabrics or other materials, such as
leather, rubberized fabrics, plastics, and furs, workers in this industry help to keep consumers warm,
dry and in style.
The apparel industry traditionally has consisted mostly of production workers who performed the cutting
and sewing functions in an assembly line. This industry remains labor-intensive, despite advances in
technology and workplace practices. Although many workers still perform this work in the United States,
the industry increasingly contracts out its production work to foreign suppliers to take advantage of
lower labor costs in other countries. In its place, a growing number of apparel manufacturers are
performing only the entrepreneurial functions involved in apparel manufacturing such as buying raw
materials, designing clothes and accessories and preparing samples, arranging for the production and
distribution of the apparel, and marketing the finished product.
As the opportunity increases the competition also increases. India is getting tough completion from
China, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh because of cheap labour and government policies. The textile and
apparel manufacturing industries are rapidly modernizing, as new investments in automation and
information technology have been made necessary by growing international competition.
Occupations provided by the Industry
The textile industry offers employment opportunities in a variety of occupations, but production occupations
accounted for 64 percent of all jobs. Some of these production occupations are unique to the industry.
Additional opportunities also exist in material-moving, administrative support, maintenance, repair,
management, and professional occupations. The industry also employs a small number of workers in
service and sales occupations.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 5 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
3.0 INTRODUCTION TO SHAHI
Shahi Export House stand steeped in time. The company started its operation way back in 1974 at Delhi,
Bangalore operations began on 1st July 1988 with 250 associates and 104 machines. Expanded over 200
times in last 36 years. Today Shahi is a $120 million firm. Manufacturing with a work force of 18,000
employees out of which 70% are women. Established in Delhi, Shahi stands vertically integrated as one of the
largest manufacturers and exporters in India offering ready-to-wear garments for ladies, men and children.
Keeping in mind the demand and need to explore new markets with different product range, Shahi started its
knits Division in the year 2000 and home division in the year 2004. Shahi is a recognized Trading House and
have received many awards for outstanding export performance. Shahi is mainly recognized for its excellence
in quality, product range, service and reliability. Shahi is a privately owned but professionally managed
company with a competent core team, experienced managers to lead each manufacturing unit assisted by
production managers and merchandising heads.
3.1 MANUFACTURING CAPACITY
Shahi manufactures 6.7 million pcs of high quality wovens & knits per month and caters to all segments in the
apparel industry men, women and kids wear.
Over 4 million square feet is dedicated to the manufacturing units which are located in Delhi, Bangalore,
Tirupur and Salem.
3.2 CLIENTELE
Gap Old Navy Tommy Hilfiger Guess H & M Pacsun Decathlon Debenhams Express Nautica Sean Jean Brooks Brothers
SSI Chaps Polo J Crew Target JC Penny PVH Izod Talbots KDC Sears Aeo
A&F Hollister Liz Claiborne Gymboree Benetton Kohl's Federated J Jill Club Monaco Eddie Bauer French Cconnection Armani Exchange
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 6 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
3.3 PRODUCT RANGE
Menswear (MNB division)
PRODUCTS
Tops Casual Wear Tops Semi Casual Wear Bottoms Casual Wear Bottoms Semi Casual Wear Casual Non Lined Jackets
MATERIALS
100% cotton, poplins, twills, light canvas Rib stop, Herringbone weave, Bedford cords, Sateen weave Madras, special madras, seersuckers, dobbies and jacquards. Mill made checks and stripes 100% Linen, checks and stripes, solids Blended fabrics with chief value cotton blends, in solids, checks and stripes Corduroy, Velvet
Womenswear Ladies Fashion Division
PRODUCTS
Blouses Dresses Skirts Tunics Camp Shirts
MATERIALS
Cotton Twill, Canvas, Cambric, Poplin, Voile, Jacquard, Texture, Yarn Dyes Cotton Spandex Cotton Nylon Spandex Cotton Poly Spandex Ringed Denim Synthetics: Moss Crape, Terry Voile, Georgette, Burnout, and Velvet
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 7 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Womenswear Ladies Specialty Division
PRODUCTS
Woven Casual Tops Woven Casual Bottoms Knitted Tops Wrinkle Free Shirts & Blouses Dress Shirts Denim Wear
MATERIALS
Cotton Voils / Cambric / Poplin / Twill / Denims / Wrinkle Free Yarn Dyed / Jacquard / Velvet / Viscous / Dobby's / Schiffly's Corduroy / Stretch / Georgette / Chiffon
Womenswear Bottoms
PRODUCTS
Chino shorts and pants Cargo shorts and pants Lounge pants Basic Skirts in heavy weight fabrics' up to 9 0z Cargo skirts
MATERIALS
All cotton woven fabrics like twills, canvas, rib stop, herring bone weave, Bedford cords,
corduroys, sateen weave etc.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 8 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
3.4 INFRASTRUCTURE
Shahi has more than 30 state of the art manufacturing facilities. The total production capacity of the company is around 6.7 million per month (both woven and knits). It has over 24000 machines.
Washing and embroidery facilities of Shahi are the best in apparel sector in India. More than 90
Multi-head computerized embroidery machines having capacity of 40 billion stitches per month. 100
Front loading washing machines having facility of over 50 tones of garment per day. State-Of-the-
Art fabric processing/dyeing/printing plant.
The entire Shahi organization works on a single ERP system, which unifies the working of all the departments. The ERP, Movex, is cross-functional and enterprise wide. This allows to typically
handling the manufacturing, logistics, distribution, inventory, shipping, invoicing, and accounting in
the company. This also synchronizes all business activities like sales, delivery, billing, production,
inventory management, quality management, and human resources management.
Through Enterprise Resource Planning, Shahi has amalgamated the company's information systems & have designed it to bind more closely all company functions including human resources,
inventories and financials while simultaneously linking the company to customers and vendors.
Modules like CRM, SRM, SCM and EPM not only give efficient services to customers but also help
to deal effectively with suppliers.
Awards
Best exporters Award from AEPC Best Vendor of the year rated by Wal-Mart/JC Penney/ Target. Best Manufacturing facilities rated by NIFT.
3.5 SHAHI IN BANGALORE
Bangalore operations of Shahi started on July 01, 1988 with 250 Associates and 104 machines. Since its inception Bangalore, operations have expanded by 50 times in 20 years.
All activities in woven section are being monitored by zonal head office i.e. Unit 7 as it is a centralized organization. Major decisions in departments like merchandising, executive planning,
sourcing etc are being taken and executed by this unit only and informed to the other units as and
when required.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 9 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
NAME OF FACTORY
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.
FACTORY CODE
Unit-09
YEAR OF ESTABLISHMENT
2008
DATE OF COMMENCEMENT OF
PRODUCTION
2008
SECTOR
Private Ltd., Export House
ANNUAL TURNOVER
Rs. 150 crores
EMPLOYEE STRENGTH
4000 capacity, currently-3,100
HEAD OFFICE
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Unit-7 (Bengaluru operations),
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Faridabad (All operations)
FACTORY ADDRESS
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, 171, 7th Main Road, Industrial Suburb, Peenya
2nd Stage, 3rd Phase, BBMP ward no. II, Bengaluru- 560058, INDIA
PRODUCT CATEGORY
Ladies Specialty Division (LSD & LFD)- Tops, dresses etc
FABRICS BEING HANDLED
100% cotton, Cotton spandex blends, Cotton satin blends, Silk, Chiffon
Cotton polyester nylon blends.
FABRIC SUPPLIERS
Centralized decision all major mill made and power loom
suppliers in India and abroad, Main suppliers include Arvind,
JCT Textiles, Indus Fila, Bombay Rayon, Alok Industries, Henly
Ltd, Vardhaman Ltd etc.
CLIENTELE
All major brands in USA and Europe. Refer page 5.
MONTHLY PRODUCTION
CAPACITIES
3,00,000/ month
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 10 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Departmental Studies
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 11 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
4.0 PLANT LAYOUT OF UNIT 9:
Shahi unit 9 has a total area of 100000 square meters. It is a production unit having four floors and a
basement facility for washing and other departments also. The roof top is designed for the canteen
facility and training purpose.
Ground Floor (Not to scale)
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 12 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Floor 1 to 4 (Not to scale)
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 13 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Basement (Not to Scale)
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 14 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Ground floor Basement
The plant lay out has designed in order to effectively utilize the entire area. As shown in previous
diagrams it can be figured out easily that each floor has entire set of processes that makes each floor
self sufficient to some extent.
The details of each floor are:-
Basement: Trim store, Maintenance Department, Washing unit, Dispatch zone
Ground Floor: Fabric store, Sampling, CAD, Cutting, Embroidery, IED, Planning and other
administrative staff.
1st Floor: Sewing (Production), Finishing, Packaging.
2nd Floor: Sewing (Production), Buttoning section, Finishing, Packaging.
3rd Floor: Sewing (Production), Buttoning section, Finishing, Packaging.
4th Floor: Sewing (Production), Buttoning section, Finishing, Packaging.
5th Floor: Roof top designed for canteen and training of operators.
Material Flow in between the floor
1st Floor
2nd Floor
3rd Floor
4th Floor
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 15 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
5.0 MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start
to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work
together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made
according to the buyers being handled.
Two type of merchandising done in garment exports
Marketing merchandising. Product merchandising.
5.1 Marketing merchandising
Main function of marketing merchandising is
Product Development Costing Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders, costing, product development and it has direct contact
with the buyer.
5.2 Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to
finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.
A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:-
Product Development Market and product Analysis Selling the concept Booking orders Confirming Deliveries Designing and Sampling
Costing Raw Material Flow Monitoring Production Follow Ups Payments Follows
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 16 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
5.3 Department structure
MARKETING MERCHANDISER
HEAD MERCHANDISER
SENIOR MERCHANDISER
JUNIOR MERCHANDISER
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior
merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the
garment styles that meets buyers expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior
merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers,
overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paper
work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples approved for fit, color
and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples,
and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product development, which are co-
coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work
out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that merchandising is the
core department of the entire industry.
5.4 Costing
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of
production before the buyer sends on the PO. During the pre-development stage an initial costing
occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost etc.
Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done accurately using
fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 17 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Start
Obtain tech pack from buyer
Sampling
Analyze fabric consumption from CAD
Analyze cost of trims and fabric
Obtain general sewing data from IED
Prepare cost sheet from sample
Develop sample as per the tech pack
Develop proto sample
Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval
Approval Cost sheet reworked
Confirmation of order
Obtain PCD & details from
production unit
Source trims & fabric from
concerned dept.
Book washing & embroidery capacity if
required
Obtain GSD from IED
Execution of order by entering details in ERP
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements
Forward the sample to buyer for approval
Approval Comments received from buyer should be incorporated and fit sample reworked
Hold pre production meeting with the production unit
Execute bulk order
Costing
Follow up with production
departments & update the buyer
Submit required documents to
documentation dept
Offer garments for final
inspection. Truck out
Follow up on the
payments for goods
End
No Yes
No Yes
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 18 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
6.0 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a
vital in the uplifting of a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department.
Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether
there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyers specification.
Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details,
embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along
with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to a style
package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are
made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the
production. The sample garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills
and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer
regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along with that
of thread and other accessories used.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples
on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
6.1 TYPES OF SAMPLES PRODUCED IN UNIT 9
Proto Sample. Fit Sample. Pilot Run Sample. Size Set. Shipment Sample. Sales Sample.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 19 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
6.2 Machine details and workforce
The size of the sampling room is quiet less in unit 9 as it does sampling for some specific styles which runs in
the unit and others are done in head office. There were a total of 50 machines in the sampling department of
unit 9.
50 operators 1 cutting tables 2 pattern making tables 2 ironing tables One CAD specialist One Pattern Master Two assistant Pattern makers 60 workers
6.3 The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it,
with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what
supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).
Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity Style no/ Size Store
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 20 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 21 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Start
On receiving the orders, allocate the same to units based on line openings and buyers ratings
Provide details to the respective units on PCD, order quantity & sample
Confirm the above details given to concerned units in consultation with GM & FM
Confirm in consultation with embroidery, washing departments
Confirm order plan with merchandising team
Provide MIS report to management every fortnight
Planning follow up with factory till order execution
End
Take inputs from IED on productivity based on garment analysis
7.0 PLANNING DEPARTMENT
Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the merchants. The
major function is to determine, whether the company is capable of producing the particular style in the
given span of time and also helps them to know the capacity of the production floor.
Shahi has a centralized planning department which does the main planning and allocates the styles to
the particular units according to its capacity of that unit. In Shahi unit 9 there is only one planner who
co-ordinates all the planning processes with the central unit. Thus when unit -9 gets an order, it does
the planning according to the current capacity of the unit.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 22 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
7.1 Detail Function:
On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to
decide the date for having the PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly
involved with the planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate
the style to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line
openings and also buyers specifications and the skill of labor required for it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Production commence date),
Order Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in
which that particular order has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval and conducts a meeting with the other
departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the particular style
which takes about 10 15 days.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity based on
the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components in the garment,
type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines required to finish the
garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing of the garment, difficulties
involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style and structure, the skill level
required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of the operators with respect to their
skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment for all the operations all together. Then
they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire style.
Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the PCD, Order
quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the GM and FM.
Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a
confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates on which
they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation they fix the
particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and finishing departments.
After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation
obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the merchants
and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management every fortnight,
then they prepare a Batch Commitment Sheet and this sheet is prepared about 3 5 days before
the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the batch that has taken up the
job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are committed to produce for a day and the
labor details (which involves the number of operators and to which operation they are assigned to and
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 23 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
they skill level will also be mentioned). This sheet will have to be updated once in an hour to know the
hourly production of the batch.
Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a Batch Variance Sheet, this
sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of the style in
the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.
Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely being
executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the
production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit idle with
a reason of raw material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the IED,
Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different departments is
done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of mails regarding
the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then the department
maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.
7.2 Work Force:
Shahi unit 9 has only one planner who co-ordinates with the head office and the particular unit and
decides all the major planning activities in the unit.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 24 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
8.0 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
The Industrial Engineering Department works on the basis of the following definition of Industrial
Engineering is, it is a systematic approach for
Design Development Installation Implementation and Maintenance of the integrated system of Man, Material and Machine/
Equipment
The industrial engineering department works for their optimum utilization for the higher productivity of
the organization with ultimate goal of earning better profit.
The tech pack made by the IED for a particular order has been shown which consists of the following
details of a particular order,
Batch layout Operation bulletin Operation process chart Critical point analysis Cutting instructions 8.1 Department Structure:
General manager
(operations)
Industrial engineer (sampling executive)
Industrial engineer (production)
assistants
Industrial engineer (senior)
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 25 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
8.2 Function:
The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the
entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria, operators skill
level categorization and other related aspects. Hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of
producing a single piece of the garment and cost of the factory for that particular style of garment.
The different departments with which the IED works are as follows:
Planning department - The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it
and they also help in finding the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department
takes a decision if they have to proceed with order or not.
Start
Training, selection & development
Work Measurement Systems development
Selection of operators, helpers, supervisors, checkers, QC, etc.
Time study Method study
OPD Analysis
Line balancing
Skill matrix Batch layout Style bulletin
Batch performanc
End
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 26 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Merchandising department- The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates the accessories consumption
by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose
and it also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing
the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it.
Research and development team -The IED people using the General Sewing Data (GSD) prepare the style bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the
garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried
out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread
(which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of
labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be
checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style
bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.
Human resource department -IED department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is required for the production of the garment. They also set a target to the batch for
an hour, for a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in
timely completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator
based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and also
maintain the quality of their work.
After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the
efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single operator
and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they
update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of the
garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date, average efficiency
of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day or not, if there was
a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the mass
production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
Based on the operators performance which would have been observed for a specified period of
time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows:
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 27 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio given below:
20% - Highly Skilled 25% - Skilled 50% - Semi skilled
Note: This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style.
A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases. Because of
maintaining this record they keep in track of the operators skill and his efficiency, working method and
after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training for
about 45 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity a grade
is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a previous work
experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which he/she would have
done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hours test to know his skills and then
grade is been allocated.
Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the
maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production review
meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation carried out in
the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated efficiency and output then
they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow the right one.
Skill type Grade
A Highly skilled
B Skilled
C Semi skilled
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 28 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
8.3 Process followed of the IE department:-
Once a style comes to the industry, the industrial engineering department gets into action. The IED starts with the style study and analysis of the style which includes estimation of the work content for
each department (cutting, sewing and finishing), the machinery requirements for the smooth
functioning of these departments. The industrial engineering department then calculates the
process cost the style and compares it with the budgeted cost given by the head office. Finally, it
takes care of the special machines required for the particular style.
After the order is confirmed, the IED reanalyzes the style and find ways for method simplification with factory managers and other concerned people. This result in a finalized operation bulletin and
the SAM and SMV are fixed.
Preproduction activities- This is the part where the sampling executive of the industrial engineering department contemplates the special skills required for the style, required grade levels
of the operators and training them for specific jobs. This phase also takes care of the layout of the
batches for the style.
Now the implementation and execution of the style commences. In this process, the IE department plans for the change-over of the new style from the previous running styles. It also calculates the
capacity and efficiency of each and every batch were the new style would run. They also effectively
synchronies each section of the batch so that idle time can be reduced both for the machinery and
operator.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 29 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
9.0 FABRIC STORES DEPARTMENT
The fabric stores department is centralized in unit-7 and all the fabric comes to this unit first from the
supplier and audited here and kept until it is distributed to other units.
9.1 Function:
Once the raw materials or the fabric is been sent by the supplier to the company and once they
reach in-house the concerned person keeps the track of all the documents and material, he/she checks
the quantity of the material in-house and the material ordered and cross checks i.e., he checks the
materials against invoice/ DC / Packing list.
After confirmation he enters the details in the ERP (MOVEX) in the GRN (Goods Received
Note). After preparing the GRN they have to do the bill entry and keep the record and maintain the
document of whatever the slips received or delivered.
Then the entries are forwarded to the head office for the checking and payment. Then after
preparing the GRN of everything that has been received a process selection is been made which
involves two steps that goes hand in hand. They are described as follows,
9.1. A Checking:
In this step the work order is being prepared and also the delivery of goods and the formalities
regarding the goods has to be carried out. All this happens in the process of receiving the goods to in-
house, there has to be another action which the fabric stores has to take care of is the situation of
delivering the fabrics to the other units and also to the cutting department of the same unit.
This department receives the required documents of production issues/ exports and similar
other related aspects from the merchants and then as soon as they receive this they enter the details of
the PO/ Export / Process follow ups into the MOVEX.
The department then checks the material availability with respect to the PO and other
documents as per the merchants given details. Then they look at the production issues / Export and as
per that two things are done. First, they pick the material as per the approval that would have been
given by the Fabric audit department and then they prepare the delivery challan and keeps it ready for
issue to the unit. Finally, at the end of both the cases the materials has to be issued after its inspection
by security line with DC that would have been given by the fabric audit department. This fabric audit
department will play a role in both issuing the materials. The fabric audit and the fabric sourcing
department in the unit 7 is the centralized unit and it holds the responsibility of collecting the raw
materials on behalf of all the other units and then distributes among them as per their order
placements.
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Page 30 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Job instructions for fabric stores department:
No
Yes
No
Yes
Receive fabric from central warehouse and check against the
delivery chalan.
Check for center selvedge and end to end variation for each roll.
Check for cuttable width of fabric for each and every roll.
For shrinkage test of 100% rolls/ takes cut a 50cm X 50cm of fabric.
Is shrinkage
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Page 31 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The workflow after fabric is received from the supplier to the factory is as follows: -
In-house storage of the fabric
Inspection (making lots according to the shade, Four point inspection is done)
Shrinkage test is also done (In-house report preparation)
Report sent to the buyer for approval
Buyers comment received
If the test report and buyers comments are ok
Then fabric is issued for cutting
9.1. B Fabric inspection
Complete visual inspection is being done. There is no systematic recording. Defects like weaving or colored patta are recorded without measuring the dimension of the
defects.
If fabric inspection is not done carefully, so there are chances that all defects may not to be recorded.
Fabric inspection reports are at the discretion of the operator only. Defects are recorded at the end of the inspection, as this may lead to mistakes. Fabrics coming in lots are not taken for a second inspection. The 4-point inspection system is followed for the fabric inspection.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 32 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Fabric Audit Flow chart
Fabric and document receipt
Verification of details: colors, total rolls, quantity.
Cutting the shrinkage, shade, csv sample
100% width and shade segregation Fabric and document receipt
Shade approval
Grouping
Numbering
Writing shades on rolls.
Fail
100% inspection
Pass
Place on the rack for issue for cutting
In Movex making put away.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 33 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Instructions for shade segregation at fabric store.
NO
Yes
Cut 1 meter from each roll
Segregate cut piece into family of shades
Send one half for washing and retain another half
After receiving the washed pieces organize the pieces as per the family of shades after wash.
Prepare shade band and send to merchant for approval
Are shade band
approved?
Inform the merchant and
reject the rolls/ takkas
Give one unwashed color continuity card to cutting and sewing and one
card to finishing and FSA
Cut the Pcs in A5 size and make 4 color continuity card each for washed and
unwashed
End
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 34 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
9.2 Four point fabric inspection system
The four point system has received the widest acceptance in both the textile and garment industry. It is
simple and easy to understand and execute.
The amount to inspect is at least 30% of the total fabric received. Rolls to be selected for inspection
should be at least 3 roll from each lot.
9.2. A Defect Classification:
The four point system classifies defects as shown: -
Length/Size of the defect Penalty
3 or less 1 point
Over 3, but not over 6 2 point
Over 6, but not over 9 3 point
Over 9 4 Point
Major defects that are encountered are: -
1. Weaving
2. Dyeing (patta, center selvage, streaks)
3. Prints (print repeat, pattern/ design, choke ups) etc.
A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard. In this system the length of the defect is
measured to determine the penalty points. The four-point system provides for the evaluation of the
fabric on either a linear yard or square yard basis. As the fabric with more width, will have more area.
Or we can say that a 72 wide fabric will have twice the area when compared to a 36 wide fabric. As
the area of the fabric is more, this is obvious that the fabric will contain twice the number of defects.
Formula for calculating the number of defect points per hundred square yards: -
Total defect points found x 3600
Defect points per hundred square yards =
Fabric width (inch) * fabric length (yard)
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Page 35 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
When rolls are checked according to this system and points are calculated. This again is a matter of
agreement with buyers clothing manual. Some buyers working on low price prints can accept fabric
with DHU as high as 40-44 points. On the other hand it is like: -
1) 20-25 points Acceptable with most buyers
2) 25 & above 35 Discussed with buyer & decided.
3) 35 & above Normally considered as reject.
Accepted rolls of fabric are then sent to the cutting room.
9.3 Record Maintenance
There is a record register that maintains all the information related to the fabric rolls that come in the
store and that are issued out of the store to the production department.
9.4 Machinery and workforce and other details in fa bric store, unit-9
Fabric inspecting machine: 1 in number, Ramsons, Shade segregation/dark room: 1 light tester for dark room. Work Force: 1 Store Manager, 5 Fabric checker, 6 helper, 1 IED assistant for shade segregation
and other technical testing, 1 quality controller, 1 operator for erp and record maintenance.
Capacity of store: 2, 50,000 meters Receiving procedure: DC Slip from central unit or supplier Issuing Procedure: Issue slip as per lay record. Fabric storing criterion: Buyer wise, Shade wise both in rolls and takkas. Daily Inspection output: 6, 000 meters. Details on the label attached fabric roll: Fabric code, Color, Item number, Buyer, Roll number,
Marker, Width, Shade.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 36 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
10.0 TRIM AND ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
The basic function of the trims and accessories section is to stock buttons, laces, trims and other
related accessories. The stock is let out depending upon the order and the requirement of PPC
department or the merchandising/sampling department. The workflow is quite lucid here. First the
department that needs a particular material fills up a requisition slip for the same. It is then forwarded to
the stores manager, who then approves the demand depending on his discretion.
The accessory stores here are the central stores in the unit-7. The accessory stores generally
receives the materials from three different locations and they can be classified into,
Faridabad Domestics Imports
The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents i.e.,
whatever it may be whether acceptance and receiving whenever they are done they are done
according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also department makes
the document for anything they carry out within the store.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would have
sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the accessory
department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular material they will
make a note of it in their MOVEX that they will be receiving that material and this is termed as PRE
GRN.
Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person verifies the
materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan and packing list which they would have received from the
merchant as already stated.
10.1 Standard operating procedure in trim store, un it 9
Receive invoice and LR (Lab report) copy from head office. Check LR details with physical quantity. Enter the details in securing register. Check the carton quantity.
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Page 37 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Check the weight of consignment. Check the trims with respect to invoice details. Cross check PO copy with reference to item number. Cross check PO description with reference to material description with quantity. Prepare a trim card for approval. Send entire goods to quality department (1.5 AQL or as per the buyer demand). Send material for storage. Data entry into system. Pass invoice account for billing. Issue as and when required.
10.2 Manpower, machines and other details of trim s tore unit 9:
Work force: 1 store in-charge, 1 assistant, 1 quality controller, 6 issuer, 3 helper.
Trims stored in unit-9: Button, Zip, Thread, Labels, Lace, Poly bag, Price tag, Hangers, Seizers, Cartons, Other stationary items like files, issue slips and records.
Segregations Category: Buyers wise, Purchase order wise.
Major buyer shelves: Wal-Mart, JC Penny, Espirt, H & M, Target, Mango, AEO
Major AQL followed: 1.5-2.5
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 38 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Start
Accept & receive materials against documents
Prepare PRE GRN
Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery challan & packing list
Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5
Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item
Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is forwarded to accounts for payment
PROCESS SELECTION
PRODUCTION ISSUES
Prepare work order
Prepare delivery challan
Forward trims along with documents for processing
Identify trims which have been approved by merchants
Prepare delivery challan & keep trims ready to issue to the factories
Materials to be issued after inspection by security against DC
End
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 39 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they carry out a
quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the buyer. The company
carries this inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods received.
The AQL is defined as follows:
After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims based on the nature
of the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN according to the materials received and against the
documents received obtained from the merchants and they also do the bill entry. The bills whatever
they enter is been forwarded to the accounts department for the payments and to fulfill other formalities
and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in order to inform them about the materials in-
housed.
After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand they are,
Process selection : In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery challan and then they keep all the
documents and also forward the trims along with the document for processing.
Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been approved by merchants and then
prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims ready to issue to the factories. Materials to be issued
after inspected by security against DC as already mentioned.
Example:
If an order is 10,500 units. When using General Inspection Level II, the factory learns from the second
chart that this quantity order equates to "M". The factory then goes to the first chart and sees that for
"M" they should inspect 315 garments. If they want a 2.5 AQL they can have 14 defective units or less
from the 315 that they inspect. If they have 15 defective units or more they are rejected. If they want a
4.0 AQL they can have 21 defect units or less to pass and they have 22 defects they will be rejection.
The defects are based on defective units (defective garment). It is not based on each actual defect on
the garment. For example, a shirt may have 3 different defects on the shirt, but this is only registered
as "one" defective garment.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 40 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
11.0 CUTTING DEPARTMENT
The cutting department does two major operations given below :
1. Firstly when there is a pilot run production for a smaller quantity say about 150 500 pieces.
2. Secondly during the mass/bulk production.
Job instructions for cutting department
Yes No
NO
YES
If width is correct
Receive fabric from fabric audit
Inspect whether the marker length is same as fabric width before cutting
A
Qc form for cutting Proceed with spreading and
cutting for pilot run .150 Pcs max.
Report to cutting head for revised
marker
Proceed with spread for bulk
Receive pilot run comments
Is correction required?
Make alternate patterns
Randomly check the fabric while spreading for:
Marker edge parallel to selvedge. Alignment of fabric Tension Count Shade
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 41 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
YES NO
NO [Inform QA and cutting manager]
Record in QC form provided
Proceed with cutting operations.
Randomly check for:
Mis-cut Notches Match top, middle & bottom
plies with pattern.
Proceed with numbering for shade wise sticker.
Quality check
Inform QAM and cutting manager
Fusing (As per test report maintain temp., pressure&
time
Quality check
C
Bundling
Final audit
Feed to sewing floor as required
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 42 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
WORK PROCESS FLOW OF CUTTING DEPTT
FABRIC RECEIVED FROM FABRIC DEPTT CUTTING
RE-SORTING OF FABRIC AS PER LOT /SHRINKAGE/WIDTH
CUTTING APPROVEL BY Q.A
RECEIVING OF MARKER
CUT ORDER ISSUE
LAYING OF FABRIC
CUTTING (CAM / MANUL)
NUMBEREING
EMBROIDERY (IF REQ.)
FUSING (IF REQ.)
RECUTTING (IF REQ.)
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 43 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
BUNDLING
QUALITY
AUDIT PASS
DESPATCH TO SEWING FROM SUPER MARKET
Cutting is a process of separating parts from the fabric as the pattern pieces in the marker for assembly
operations. This is carried out in the cutting room-an area, which normally indicates the activities of
marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing as well as being used to refer to actual cutting
of garment parts from the lay. Marker planning is done in the CAD room. Garments are cut in bulk
simultaneously for which a lay is created; with a number of plies spread one above another. The marker
from CAD is fixed over the lay and it is cut with help of powerful electric cutters, or CAM m/c following
the lines of the patterns. The main objective of the cutting department is to cut the parts accurately and
economically and in sufficient volume to keep the production units supplied with work.
11.1 Basic work flow
Fabric requisition sheet CAD mini marker Marker planning Length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be cut
Along with this and approved sample and patterns of all sizes or the marker are also sent. The
cutting department checks the fabric status in the store and acquires it whenever the production
manager sends the cut order. Firstly 2-3 samples are cut from the pattern (medium size) sent by the
CAD room to check for any amendments in pattern. These activities are co-coordinated by the R&D
department. When the patterns are amended the production manager gets a size set cut and these
pieces are stitched and the QC on the floor locates any discrepancies related to pattern in the
stitched garments. Report with comments for alteration in the patterns is sent if needed the pattern
master allocated to that style corrects the patterns accordingly. The marker planning is also done
afresh to incorporate the changes. Only when the production manager is sure of the base pattern,
will he issue the job order for bulk cutting.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 44 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
All the fabric is not cut at one go. Rather it is cut as and when required by the production department
against the job order. The cutting department calculates the fabric quantity required the number of
pieces mentioned in the job card using the average given by the CAD department. About 5% is cut
more than required to make up for defective pieces or wastage in production. The cutting room
provides 1.5 days to 2 days of WIP to the production floor.
11.2 Bulk cutting process
11.2. A Solid cutting
Spreading Spreading is a process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner, which permits
these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for assembly. For this, first of
all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom
plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric
layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine. While
manual spreading is time consuming, the use of travelling machine gives faster and more accurate
results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality (also shade and shrinkage) of the fabric & length
of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the
fabric and the capacity of the machine.
The lengths of the plies being spread are kept as perfectly as possible while superimposing their sides
on one another. The difference between the lengths and breadths is kept as low as possible and
generally not more than inch +/-. The height of the lay is kept between 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches. An
increased height may affect quality cutting due to unstable layers. The tension at which the fabric is laid
is also monitored.
Positioning the marker Positioning the marker is the process of placing the marker plan on the top of the lay and securing it
with adhesive to prevent its movement during cutting. When the marker is placed it is kept exactly
matching the length and width of the top ply of the lay. Details like style no., name of the part, size
number and number of components is printed on the marker as a guide. Then it is clamped for better
grip.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 45 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Cutting The lay is cut with help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. the machine
is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the
pieces of fabric progressively. Notches are also added, for smaller components like collars, ribs etc.
that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which
cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
Spread
Place marker
Cut pattern pieces
11.2. B Block cutting
Jacquard, stripes and checks are not being spread with spreading machine due to requirements of
matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks are spread and cut in
single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time matching the strips with those in the
previous plies. Then blocks are cut out from this spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the
block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from
the lay and the placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut blocks are manually
marked on top with marking chalk and using hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to
match the stripes and rough cutting of the fabric following the markings of the patterns is done. The cut
shapes are again checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to
finish the pattern.
Cutting of stripped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also more
due to cutting in two stages.
Spread Match Mark blocks
Match
Mark patterns Cut patterns Match
Final precise shaping of patterns
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 46 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
11.3 Sorting and ticketing
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size
are brought together it is very important to take care of the pieces cut from two different bolts( bundles)
of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt to bolt shade variations the sorted
pcs are now ticketed ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching
precision, and sequence identification. The workers secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket
using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle no. and piece no. and
serves as important mans to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to the end
11.4 Cut panel checking
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any
objectionable faults. Panels may have faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape
and any fabric defects like holes cuts shade variations etc., that do not lie within the acceptable quality
parameters, are removed from the cut lay a cutting component check report is filled for the total quantity
cut, check and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and equal no of fresh panels are
separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same no. as the rejected ones. Other mendable
faults are marked with an alteration stickers and passed on these will be spotted out during garment
finishing or washing.
11.5 Bundling
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using ties. The
size of the bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will contain
pieces of same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount required by the
production department when asked for.
11.6 Fusing
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts of to be fused are separated from the
bundle the fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the components to be fused.
The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two paper sheets and the pack is
passed through the fusing machine. By means of temperature and pressure fussing takes place at a
particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on conveyers and the
pieces are removed and re-bundled.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 47 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
11.7 Manpower, Machinery and other details:
Manpower: 1 cutting manager, 1 incharge, 4 supervisors, 1 cutting executive, 1 minusing incharge (i.e.
- cut order plan), 100 workforces.
Daily Production: 14,000 to 18,000 pcs. per day.
Spreading tables: 6 lines
Bundling and ticketing tables: 2 lines
WIP to Sewing floor: 1.5 days to 2 days
Machine Quantity Make
Spreading machine 1 F k Arna
Straight knives 10 Eastman
Band knives 3 Eastman
Fusing m/c 2 Shima
Spreading Table 6 Mica surface
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 48 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
12.0 EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Shahi has a centralized embroidery department in unit -7 which is the second largest embroidery unit in Asia. Unit 9 has a small embroidery section consisting of 3 multi headed machines. 12.1 SOP for embroidery department
Receive design from merchant against order. Scan and punch design. Strike off design. Pilot run of style. Receipt of panels from cutting Start bulk production.
Marking Framing embroidery
Trimming and checking. Pack goods. Dispatch goods.
12.2 Detail functioning of the department:-
The department receives Artwork from the merchandising department which contains the following details
Total length and width of the design Style name Quality details- no. of stitches/inch Quality check points Placement of design Pattern position Color etc.
They refer the buyer wise design details from the production book in which the details of each order are maintained.
These details are entered into the software which is linked to the machines. The machines operate according to the details entered into the software.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 49 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
The details about the threads (strength, plies) to be used come from the Production Planning and Control Department
The department remains in constant touch with the Pattern Making and Cutting departments for the correct positioning of the designs and enabling continuous work flow respectively.
Start
Receive designs from the merchant
Scan and punch design
Strike- off of design
Samples to be done against orders
Conduct pilot run of the styles
Start bulk production
Trimming & checking
Packing
Delivery
Style reconciliation
End
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12.3 Manpower, Machinery and other details:
12.3.a Manpower:
No. of operators: 3 per shift
No of Checkers: 2 per shift
No. of supervisor: 1 per shift
No of Manager/ Incharge: 1
12.3.b Embroidery machines
Machine details Company: Barudan Model: 912K Electronic, computerized, automatic Multi-head: 20 heads/machine Capacity : 1.8 million stitches /day No. of machine : 3
12.3.c Types of stitches
Zigzag Running Satin Titanium
12.3.d Embroidery Threads
Zari Rayon- not strong Tribal polyester- strong Other threads as per requisition
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 51 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
12.3.d Time taken for initial set up (12 pcs)
Small logo- hour Big design- 2 to 3 hours Framing- 5 min for 12 frames
12.3.e Quality
100% inspection is done Major defects
Bobbin thread on the right side of garment Puckering Loose stitch
Remedies for defects Manual embroidery Re-embroidery Re-cutting (if the above two dont solve the problem
12.3.f Costing
Cost depends on the no. of colors in the design as well as the size of the design Size
0-3000 stitches: Rs.4 per pc 3000-10,000 stitches: Rs.1 per 1000 stitch > 10,000 stitches: Rs.0.85 per 1000 stitch
If colors in the design are more than 2 then per colour 5 paisa increase per piece. Garment embroidery is costlier than parts embroidery Tolerance: 2mm-3mm
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 52 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
13.1 SEWING DEPARTMENT
13.1 Introduction:
Production at Shahi, Unit - 9 comes under LSD/ LFD Division and involved in the production of
womens Casual and semi formal shirts, tops, dresses etc.
Main brands to which this unit caters are :-
TARGET WALMART ESPIRT etc.
13.2 Production System followed:-
Progressive Bundling System. Batch production at some floors. Depends on order. This unit has four production floors totally having 32 lines of production. Each floor has 8 batches. Capacity: The production unit has a capacity of 12,000-15,000 pieces per day Each batch has approx 45-65 workstations and machines apart from button sewing, button
sewing, and folding machines.
13.3 Functioning of the department:
The production floor does production in two types:
Once during pilot production where they have to produce about 250 500 garments for the new style which is sent to the buyer to check the workmanship and production skills of the factory.
Bulk production The production floor receives the details as below:-
the style or the garment, number of operators required, the batch for which the style has to be installed, any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style, target for each day Breakup of the production quantity.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
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After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and sorting
section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are required for the
particular style then they start the production for the new style.
Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting for the floor
which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced in bulk.
In progressive bundling system, this batch setting and teaching session will go on for about 23 days ,
but in the newly introduced lean manufacturing system , batch-setting can be done 6 hours and the
production does not stop meanwhile but remains in the running process simultaneously.
After this batch setting process the production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e.,
may be for 50 pieces for the entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 100
150 and so on, this will make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to
be carried out for the particular style.
The sections for the sewing process in progressive bundling system :- Front section Back section Sleeve section Collar section Cuff section Assembly Kaja and buttons section
The sections for the sewing process in Group/ Modular production System :- Front section (one batch for entire front) Back section(One batch for entire back) Collar and Sleeve section(One batch for collar and sleeves) Assembly (To assembly) Kaja and buttons section
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 54 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are
In-process checking. End line checking. Here there exists both AQL audit and normal checking.
The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch which is been
allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform:-
1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them the most
suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to them.
4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get him/her their
material and ask them to work.
5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.
6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management.
7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operators skill level whenever asked for.
8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a better person to
fit into that vacant place.
9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly approach to them
and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the factory at any time.
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 55 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
13.4 PROCESS FLOW CHART
Start
Bulk Production
Cut parts received from
End line checking & AQL
Assembly
Parts preparation
Button & button hole/ Bar tack
Rough checking
Ironing
Final checking
Tagging
Packing
FSA Audit
Measurement checking
Auditing by buyer QA
Truck out End
In-Line
Washing
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 56 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
13.5 Manpower, Machine details and other facts:
13.5.a Manpower
Operators: 2000 sewing operators
Helpers: 160 helpers
End line and in line checkers: 130
Supervisors: 30
Production manager: 2
Factory manager: 2
IE Executive: 4
IE head (Production): 1
13.5.b Number and types of machines:
There are approximately 2000 machines used in production floor. Allotment of sewing and other
machines are done as per requirement. Different types of machines are given below:-
SNLS SNLS(UBT) SNLS(EC) DNLS DNLS(UBT) SNCS DNCS OVER LOCK M/C (3T,4T,5T) FLAT LOCK M/C COLLAR TURNING M/C BUTTON HOLE M/C BUTTON ATTACH M/C BARTACK M/C EYE LET FIXING M/C MNC KANSAI M/C FEED OF ARM M/C ZIG ZAG M/C
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 57 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
14.0 WASHING DEPARTMENT
14.1 Introduction to the department:
Unit -9 handles the washing for other four units of Shahi in Bangalore. It is a centralized process
that is decided by the head office as per the availability and capacity of the unit.
14.4 Standard Operating Procedure:
Receive goods from sewing. Verify desired ingredients ratio to be used to achieve buyer specified Prepare the washing recipe. Load goods along with ingredients into machine. Perform desired washing, maintain specified time and temperature. Shift wash garments into hydro extractor. Shift garments into dryer for complete drying. Send dried garments for checking. Store garments in storage location and arrange for dispatch to finishing section.
14.3 Detailed Work Flow:
After getting the sample done, the merchandiser compare the original sample sent by the buyer
and the sample done in the factory and then they show both the samples and the specifications
to the washing department and ask them match the factory sample with the buyer sample with
respect to the feel and the texture.
The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects which are as follows:-
Type of the material. The texture that is under demand. The feel and look of the garment under demand. Types of labels that are been used in the garment. Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a colored fabric). Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment. Types of threads used for in sewing. Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish. The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.
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The sensitivity criteria of the fabric. The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product. The sequence of the processes. Temperature at which the garment has to be treated. Duration of the treatment.
After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start treating
the garments in the desired sequence.
At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise,
suppose the garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in the similar
manner then such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyers specifications. In this washing
there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
Wet processing involves mainly two types which are as follows:-
1. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved which are
classified as follows :-
Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry Softener wash Desieze wash Enzyme wash Stone enzyme wash Rubber ball wash Denim wash Bleach wash Tinting/ T- staining Acid wash
Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Unit-9
Page 59 Department of fashion technology, National Institute of fashion Technology, Kannur
Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such
situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing stage or else
the original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the
dry processing and then from there to the wet processing where it is first sent to the dyeing and
then to the washing process.
After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in which
a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the tumbler
capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages will be
extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used for that
particular style / garment.
Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not involve any
organized way, any garment from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according to
the criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.
Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing
section or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or trims after
the washing and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the left
over job on them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.