Shampoos

Chemistry of shampoos

Types of shampoos

Chemistry of Shampoos

An understanding of the chemical ingredients used in shampoos will help you prescribe the best product for your clients

Chemistry of Shampoos

• Water– The main ingredient

• Purified or deionized

– First ingredient usually on product labels because of largest % of remaining ingredients

Surfactant Molecule

• Surfactant & detergent are synonymous– Meaning cleansing or “surface active” agent

– Hydrophilic end• “head” end of a shampoo molecule & is water-attracting

– Lipophilic end• “tail” end of a shampoo molecule & is oil-attracting

Since both ends are working during a shampoo, a push-pull effect is created that causes the oils, dirt & deposits to form little balls that can be lifted off in the water & rinsed from the hair

Types of Shampoo

Shampoo products represent the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products

• Acid-balanced– pH the same as hair of 4.5 to 5.5– By adding citric, lactic or phosphoric acid to any shampoo , it

can become acid-balanced

Some believe that a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 is essential to prevent excessive dryness & hair damage. The Consumer’s Union chemists believe a pH between 5-8 is too small to affect the hair & scalp due to the limited time of actual application

Types of Shampoo

• Conditioning – Moisturizing shampoos designed to make hair smooth

& shiny, improve manageability & avoid damage to chemically treated hair

– Protein & biotin are agents that restore moisture & elasticity, strengthen hair shaft & add volume

– Non-stripping shampoo

Types of Shampoo

• Medicated– Reduce dandruff or relieve scalp conditions

– Require a prescription

• Clarifying– Contain acidic ingredient like cider vinegar to cut

through product buildup

– Increase shine

– Only use as needed

Types of Shampoo

• Balancing– Wash away excess oiliness while keeping hair from

drying out

• Dry or powder– Used when client’s health prevents a wet shampoo

– Cleanses w/out soap & water

– Powder picks up dirt & oils as you brush or comb through hair

Types of Shampoo

• Color-enhancing– The shampoo surfactant is combined w/ basic dyes

– Similar to temporary rinses

– Removed w/ plain shampooing

– Used to brighten, to add some slight color & eliminate unwanted color tones

• For hairpieces & wigs– Carbon tetrachloride

– No harsh shampoos

Shampoo & retailing

• Use products your salon retails

• Sales commission

• Service guaranteed

• Set product in front of client while continuing service

Summary

• Hydrophilic is the water loving end of the shampoo molecule

• Lipophilic is the oil loving end of the shampoo molecule

• Shampoo for every type of hair

• Retailing can be beneficial to you in sales commission