Ship Modeling Simplified Part 1

8/13/2019 Ship Modeling Simplified Part 1

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PART I

Setting Up Shop

SELECTING A KIT

Take a look at the models on display atyour local hobby shop. Manufacturersworldwide have produced a huge vari-ety of kits, and that's a good sign. You'llhave no shortage of new projects to takeon as you gain experience. But wheredo you start?

An enthusiastic beginner looking forhis first model is confronted with a fas-cinating, but very confusing, array of

choices. Although all kits provide certain

basic materials, there are significant dif-ferences in type and quality. Here aresome things to keep in mind whenmaking a selection.

MAKING YOUR CHOICE

Choose a model that catches your eye,but heed the limits facing a first-timer.


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Your decision will have a lot to do withthe mood you are in and the pleasureyou get from thinking about how thefinished model will look. Realistically,though, as when choosing a new car, youshould consider several factors before

making the final decision. How muchmoney do you want to spend? Howmuch experience do you have? Whatkind of display space will be availablefor the finished model? What kind of shipattracts you? Are the kits that interest you

of good quality? How much time can youspend at the workbench?

Sound too involved? Well, it's not ifyou're sensible. Think "simple" for yourfirst effort. Though you're looking for achallenge, you're not looking for intense

frustration.

YOUR ABILITY

I have known many novices to buy kitsof the magnitude of the Sovereign of the


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Seas, San Felipe, orAmerigo Vespucciships with multiple decks, intricate or-namentation, and complicated rigging

plans. They bought them, but they neverfinished them. What I saw instead wasfrustration, failure, and dejection and,

of course, the abandonment of whatcould have been a happy and success-ful pastime.

Choose a fairly small, simple, attrac-tive but complete model, one that has a

bit of everything found in ships. Look fora model with one deck, one or two mastsand simple rigging. A good examplewould be a Baltimore Clipper fromaround the time of the War of 1812, or afishing schooner such as Bluenose II.Such a vessel will introduce the first-timerto the art of building the hull (especiallythe plank-on-bulkhead type). You'll

plank decks and build deck fixtures(gratings, pumps, binnacles, fife rails and

pin rails, winches, capstans, ladders). Ifyou choose a Baltimore Clipper you'lllearn how to cut gunports and how toassemble and rig guns in place. You'llmove on to building and rigging simplespars and masts. Such a model, in otherwords, will be sufficiently complex to

teach you many basic skills, but not somuch so that you never receive the sat-isfaction of successfully completing it.

Some good kits that are simpleenough for beginners include Lynx, Gla-dis, and Dallas by Pan Art;Bluenose II,

Harvey, and Mare Nostrumby ArtesaniaLatina;Flying Fishby Corel;AmericabyMamoli; andDandy IIby Dikar.

PHOTO 1. A beginner's nightmare. The sternornamentation, the sheer of the hull, and themultiple gun decks of the San Felipe spelldisaster for a first-time builder.

THE COST

It's always a good idea to shop aroundbefore actually purchasing a kit: There'sa wide range of prices out there reflect-ing quality, size, and production costs.Prices vary from manufacturer to manu-facturer for the same ship. For instance,four or five manufacturers offer kits of

the Constitution at four or five differentprices. Throw in the vast differencesamong hobby retailers and you can seethe need for comparison shopping.

My advice for a modeler looking forhis first project: Don't spend more than$150.

When you get to the hobby shop,bring with you all these considerations


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PHOTO 2. The simple hull line and rigging plan of the schooner Bluenose IIallow a beginner to learn and refine basic planking and rigging skills. Theexposed section shows the first layer of planking.

as well as your checkbook or chargecard. Leave some of your enthusiasm athome where it will be waiting for youwhen you arrive with your purchase. Acool, knowledgeable shopper whoknows what he wants is the most likelyto get it.

SCALE

Kits come in a number of scales a wayof comparing the size of the model with

the size of the real ship. Scale will be-come more important as you refine yourmodeling skills. For now it's not some-thing to worry a great deal about. Stick

to the types of models I've recommendedand go with whatever scale the manu-facturer has decided to use.

Still, it's important to understandwhat scale is. Scale is expressed as a ratio:maybe 1/50 or 1:25 or 1/96. What doesthat mean?

Say we're talking about a model inwhich 1/4 inch represents one foot onthe full-size ship. The scale might becalled a 1/4-inch scale or, more likely, a1:48 scale (1 foot that's 12 inches

divided by 1/4 inch equals 48); they'reboth the same. In 1:48 scale the 143-footBluenose II wouldbe 35 1/2 inches long.

But there are other scales and the


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matter is complicated further by Euro-pean kits, which use ratios expressed inmetric dimensions. Let's save ourselvessome headaches and compare threecommon scales.

A 1:96 scale is similar to a 1/8-inchAmerican scale: one foot on the full-size ship is represented by 1/8 inchor about 3 mm. (A three-foot-high

bulwark on the full-size ship wouldbe 3/8 inch or 9 mm on your model.)

A 1:75 metric scale is similar though not equivalent to a 3/16-inch Ameri-can scale: one foot on the full-sizeship is represented by 3/16 inch or4.5 mm. (A three-foot high bulwarkon the full-size ship would be 9/16

inch or 13.5 mm on your model.) A 1:48 scale is equivalent to a 1/4-inch

American scale: one foot on the full-size ship is represented by 1/4 inchor about 6 mm. (A three-foot-high

bulwark on the full-size ship wouldbe 3/4 inch or 18 mm on yourmodel.)

Don't think in abstract terms; applythe scales to real-life situations and yourexperience will be painless.

METRIC vs. INCHES. This brings upanother mildly troublesome problem.When you're working with a Europeankit do you try to convert everything toinches? If you want to make extra workfor yourself go ahead. If you've pur-

PHOTO 3. Universal ruler. The metric and theinch scales face each other in the centerno calculations necessary.

you have an American kit, think inchesand feet.

Sometimes you will need to converta measurement from inches to metric orvice versa and that takes time. I havea way around that problem, a little gadgetI call my universal ruler. Go to an artsupply store and find two rulers, one ininches and the other in metric pref-erably one with a righthand scale andone with a lefthand scale.

If you can't find a righthand ruler,cover the numbers on one ruler withmasking tape and re-write them fromright to left. With the metric and inchscales facing each other, glue the tworulers to a wooden base. Instant conver-sion.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN

A MODEL

You don't have to be an expert to choosea good kit. All you have to do is look at


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You have a right to do so, and if youcan't look inside the box, don't buy thekit.

That, of course, can lead to problemsif you're buying from a catalog. The bestway to avoid unpleasant surprises is

sticking to manufacturers and supplierswhose reputations are solid. Orderingkits from some manufacturers virtuallyguarantees you'll get what you want.Some mail order suppliers will replace

broken or missing parts. Call beforeordering and find out what the supplier's

policy is. On the other hand, some hobbyshops will have nothing to do with youafter your purchase. Ask around, and becircumspect.

THE PLANS

The plans include all the drawings youneed to assemble the model. The degreeof precision and the quality of the draw-ings generally will spell victory or defeatfor a beginner. To take full advantage ofany set of plans, however, you should

be familiar with overall construction prin-ciples, including the anatomy of rigging,or you'll be lost. In fact, I'd strongly

suggest reading through this entire bookto get an idea of what kinds of things tolook for before you commit yourself toa selection.

Generally, you'll find that everymanufacturer uses its own system, withdifferent geometrical or three-dimen-sional drawings. Some include black and

PHOTO 4. The kit of the Bluenose II by Arte-sania Latina, a Spanish manufacturer. Thenumber of pieces can be staggering, even for

a simple model; check to make sure every-thing listed is there, and in good condition.

white pictures of the different parts orstages of construction; some use codedletters with legends to describe parts andrigging lines. The best ones use an ex-

ploded view of the model and mark dif-ferent parts with numbers that guide youto detailed drawings of that particular

piece or setting.

INSTRUCTIONS

If the instructions accompanying theplans are not explicit you could be introuble before you start. Check the in-structions to see how clearly they arewritten. On some kits, the step-by-stepmethods are actually out of sequence.


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PHOTO 5. Most kits supply the dowels you'llneed to build your masts and yards, butyou 'l l have to cut them to their correctlengths.

PHOTO 6. Properly turned out deck fixtures railing stanchions, cleats, gratings, gunbarrels and the like can add a great dealto your model's appearance.

I'll show you ways to correct this prob-lem.

Take great care in removing precutparts from their sheets. These parts areprecut on one side only; if you attemptto remove them without first cuttingthrough them with a knife, they will

break up or tear along their edges.

THE FITTINGS

Fittings such as blocks, railing stan-chions, gun carriages, gun barrels, doors,chains, cleats, pumps, and gratings arean essential element to the beauty of amodel. Some kits have metal fittings,some have plastic, some wood. Lookinside the box before you buy, for the

quality of the fittings should help guideyour selection and may even decide theissue.

Brass fittings are by far the most at-tractive and easiest to work with. Fittingsmade from britannia, a silver-white al-loy similar to pewter, can be quite hand-some.

Consider also the amount of finish

work these fittings will require. Somefittings will have to be cleaned of cast-ing excesses. Some will have to be re-drilled because the holes in them arealmost nonexistent. The precut piecesneeded to make the gratings are some-times roughly cut, and can be quite achallenge to clean out. You can checksuch things without opening the plastic


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PHOTO 7. Even the simplest kits for the seri-ous beginner provide a wealth of intricatefixtures you can assemble and embellish,such as this schooner's wheel, fife rail, house,pump, and windlass.

PHOTO 8. Orthese lathe-turned barrels andcapstan.

PHOTO 10. This bilge pump and forward railfrom the Harvey are part of the kit-, all youneed is a steady hand.

PHOTO 11. Other fixtures you may find inyour kit will add flavor, such as this work-bench .

PHOTO 9. . . . Or this aft latrine from the PHOTO 12. Or this main hatch, completeschooner Harvey; note the doorknob. with metal fittings . . .


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PHOTO 13. . . . Or this grating cover andcannonball rack.

box or bag in which the fittings arestored.

THE BOATS

Lifeboats, whale boats, service boats most kits include them. They may bemetal, plastic, precarved wood, or pre-cut plank on frame. Here again everytype has its merits or faults; the impor-tant criterion is quality.

The precast boats can be quite au-thentic-looking and handsome. Althoughundeniably beautiful, the precut plank-on-frame boats can pose quite a chal-

lenge for the builder; they are to me,however, the most authentic and themost satisfying. A built-up whale boat isa pretty thing to see, though it also rep-resents hours of challenging work. Itdoesn't matter if you fail; you can alwaystry again or buy a precarved one.

If the boats are not supplied with thekit, always make or buy the right ones

for the model you are building. How? Goto a library and check any number ofhistorical references. Try, for example,The History of American Sailing Ships, orThe American Fishing Schooners byHoward I. Chapelle.

Boats should be equipped with oars,harpoons, and other such accessories asappropriate. You can buy oars fromhobby shops or catalogs, or you canmake them yourself and that is defi-nitely the most fun. Some kits will showways of doing it.

RIGGING LINES

It's distressing to have to say that 90percent of the kits on the market todayfall short in supplying acceptable rigginglines and cables. Most include rigging ofthe wrong size or color.

PHOTO 14. A ship's boat lashed to the fore-deck, a touch of authenticity, and a chal-lenge to build.


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PHOTO 15. Shrouds, stays, ratlines, and lifts a cat's cradle of rigging that can quicklyget out of control if you don't pay attentionto scale.

Some kits supply white string sothick your finished model will look likea Christmas tree. Only a very few kits

provide acceptable rigging line. Checkto see what comes with the one you'rethinking of buying. The best type is three-strand twisted linen. Black is the mostuseful color for standing rigging; you'llneed other colors gray, beige (cream),and brown for other jobs aboard yourmodel. Twisted cotton line is also avail-able. It is practically impossible to findrigging line correct for models of 1/8-inch(1/96) scale or smaller, but with a little

persistence you can come pretty close.You can find rigging line as small as 0.10mm in diameter.

BUILDING AWORKPLACE

TOOLS:VALUABLE ASSETS

Tools are a craftsman's best friend: Thequality of your tools will determine thequality of your finished product. Toolsimprove your ability, save time and ef-fort, and preserve your attitude. There isnothing more frustrating than workingwith the wrong tools or with tools thatare in bad condition.

I've broken down the tools you'llneed into three categories: basic, inter-mediate, and expert. In addition, I'vedeveloped some tools and laborsaving

arrangements you can make yourself.

BASIC TOOLS. The following handtools are essential to build any model.Building without them would be liketrying to build a house without a saw. Aset of the following essential tools will

probably run you about $100. Shoparound; the best place to buy this typeof equipment is a hobby shop, whereyou have a chance to see first-hand whatyou're buying. Here's what you'll need:

Pliers: Longnose (needleno se), roundtip, sidecutter, and flattip; pliersshould be no more than 5 incheslong and should have plastic-coveredhandles for a better grip.

Hammers: One small carpenter typeand one ball peen.


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PHOTO 16. Without these basic tools, it's tough to get going: Pliers, cutting blades,clips, a compass, straightedges, files,and brushes even a clothespin.

Saws: A razor-type X-Acto withhandle, and miter box (aluminumtype, if possible); a good coping sawwith a fine-tooth blade; a hole-cut-ting X-Acto blade with handle. Somestores sell combinations of thesetools in sets; the X-Acto saw handlesare interchangeable.

Chisels: A small set of carving chisels;X-Acto type chisel blade with handle.

Knives: A set of X-Acto knives; sur-geon's scalpel with #11 blade.

Files: A set of small files, including amedium bastard, a fine round, a fineflat, and a fine half-round.

Drills: Pin-vise type hand drill; one setof drill bits from #60 to #80; one setof drill bits from 1/32 inch to 1/4inch.

Electric plank bender: A must forperfection and ease in plank bend-ing, plank installation, and otheruses. (It will cost around $25; if youdon't want to spend the money yet,an electric hair-curling iron will work,

but not nearly as well.)Rasps: One flat and one half-round

carpenter's rasp.Needle threaders: One package. Tweezers.Rulers: Yardstick; 12-inch plastic and

steel rulers and metric equivalents.Squares: One small and one largeplastic.

Compass: Regular classroom type. Awl: No thicker than 1/16 inch. Clamps: One dozen alligator-type

clips; one package of clip-type


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PHOTO 17.An electric drill with a speed reducer, a mini-vise with a "suction-cup " bottom, and a mini-vacuum cleaner can help move things along quickly,and cleanly.

clothespins; a set of three differentsizes (one-, two-, and three-inch) ofsteel clamps. Sanding blocks: A

chalkboard eraser;some small wood blocks, triangularand square with flat and roundedsurfaces. Sandpaper: Aluminum

oxide is best:rough, medium, and fine (#80, #120,#320). Brushes: One set each of

nylon andsable flat brushes, sizes 1 to 4.

Plane: A small hobby plane. Scissors:At least one pair of regular

dressmaking shears; one pair smallerembroidery/craft scissors. Vise:

Vacuum-base type that can bemoved easily on the bench. Glue:

Carpenter's glue and cyano-

acrylate glue (ACC). I like a brandcalled Super Jet, but there are anumber of others.

Pins: A number of sizes; a must forplanking and for temporary clamp-ing.

INTERMEDIATE TOOLS.You might wantto try a few models before investing inthese tools, but they will help you do a

better job in a shorter time. They alsorepresent a substantial investment. Re-member, shop around.

Drill (motorized tool): Electric, with acomplete set of carving and cuttingtools; the drill should have a univer-sal chuck, not a collet a speed-reducing transformer is a must. (Try


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the Maxicraft set with the variousattachments.) Around $110.

Soldering iron: Pistol-grip type withtwo heat levels. Around $25.

Miter box: Adjustable to angles from0 to 90 degrees. Around $15.

Rasps: A set of rasps with offset handles for better handling, includ-ing flat, concave, round, and trian-gular shapes; also get a plane-typerasp with a replaceable blade.Around $15.

Turntable: This homemade base willhelp in rigging your model; adapt alazy susan-type base by installing ashelving or plywood board on topof it. By setting your model on this

base, you'll be able to turn it aroundeasily when working on the deck orwhen rigging. Around $5.

Waterline marker: We'll learn how tomake one on page 54.

Cutting jig for deck planks: See page 41.

Mast setting jig: See page 98. Universal vise: This type will permit

you to adjust the angle of the jawsin many positions. Around $25.

Magnifying glass: Will help for close-

up work. Around $15. 1/4-inch variable speed electric drill.Around $35.

Electric drill stand. Around $10.

TOOLS FOR THE EXPERT.Here are sometools to think about when you're sureyou've caught the ship modeling bug.

A FEW WORDS OF ADVICEON TOOLS

Cheap tools don't last and don't work.

Each tool should have its ownstorage spot. You'll get to itquickly and be able to tell at aglance what's missing.

Use your tools as they were in-tendeda screwdriver is not achisel, a plastic ruler is not a cut-ting guide.

Keep your tools clean and sharp.A dull X-Acto doesn't cut, and itcould be dangerous.

Hard surfaces wreak havoc onfine-bladed tools; try to keepthem apart.

Unplug all electrical tools whenfinished.

Store spare saw blades in card-board covers; you'll protect theblades and your fingers.

Don't use your electric saw onwood that makes it strain.Sharpen the saw's blades.

Keep your power table clear of

sawdust; fire isn't funny. Use protective glasses when working with power tools.

Clean your paint brushes imme-diately with thinners and thensoap and water; they'll lastlonger.


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They cost a bit and require refined skills,so don't rush out to buy them until you'reconfident in your growing competence.We won't concern ourselves with priceshere; just consider this equipment todream about.

7-1/2-inch electric table saw: This typeof saw should be at least 3/4 horse-

power. To ensure a true cut, the ripguide should be built so that it can

be secured accurately on both ends.The best rip guides are those thatslide with a bushing on a solid shaftat both ends. The saw should beadjustable to tilt at various angles.

4-inch electric table saw: This saw isused for very close, accurate, andclean work, using a jeweler's bladefor a smooth finish. Here again beaware of the construction of the ripguide and the motor's horsepower(at least 3/4 hp). Check the blade slotin the saw table. If it is too wide yourfine strips will be drawn under whileyou're cutting them; a problem youcan remedy by using a piece of scrap

plywood 3 mm to 5 mm (1/8 to 3/16 inch) thick. Set the piece on the

table and cut it about halfwaythrough the blade, then run yourstrip on top of it while cutting it. Thescrapwood base will prevent yourstrip from being drawn through thetable slot.

Electric scroll saw: A band-type scrollused for making curved cuts; a vi-

brating scroll saw (buy one with a

clearance of at least 16 inches). Bench grinder: A small one will do the

job. Bench sanders: 1-inch belt sander

(good for small parts precision sand-ing); a 4-inch belt sander (possibly

with a disc sanding attachment anda table with an adjustable guide).

Lathe: Bench type, preferably with speed control. The lathe bed must

be at least 18 inches long. Mini-vac: This miniature vacuum

cleaner will help remove dust andsmall particles from very hard-to-get-at places.

GETTING SET TO BUILD

WORKBENCH. Depending on thespace available, your workbench should

be large enough to allow you to workon any size model, plus hold the toolsyou use constantly. A strong, good-sized

bench could be made from a 4- by 6-foot sheet of 3/4-inch plywood. Take alook at Figure 2. Two side extensionsapproximately 1 foot by 2 feet provideextra accessibility to parts and tools as

you work. The bench should be about32 inches high; place a small cabinet withplastic drawers for spare parts on eachend of the bench. You can also storesmall tools, such as drill bits and knife

blades, in those drawers. On the frontright side of the bench (left, if you'relefthanded) attach your transformer foryour motorized tool (which you may not


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FIGURE 2.A neat workbench, with everythingin reach, can make a modeler's task infi-nitely easier. Note how the plans are pinnedbehind the bench to save space and easereading.

buy at first, but probably will eventuallyif you keep at modeling) and some elec-trical outlets. Don't take up workspacewith the plans. Rather, hang them onthe wall directly in front o f you andall around the bench, so that you canconsult them without getting off yourchair.

POWER TABLE.Use one table to holdall your power machines. It should be atleast 4 by 6 feet, preferably made from3/4-inch plywood. Arrange your ma-chines as illustrated (Figure 3); believeme, it will cut down on interference andstrain. Install a multi-outlet box in themiddle of the bench to avoid creating amaze of electrical cords. No wood scraps,

parts, or tools should ever be left on thepower table.

THE MASTINI BOOSTER. Working on adelicate rigging problem or cutting a

planking section takes the steady hands

of a surgeon. The close-range work ofship model building is tough enoughwithout adding to the strain on yourarms, lower back, and shoulder and neckmuscles because your work chair is toohigh or too low. And lifting your armswithout support makes them unsteady.My solution: the Mastini Booster.

I use an ordinary captain's chair witha padded seat fitted across the arm rests.I sit on the elevated seat with my feeton the original seat. My elbows rest onmy knees, supporting my back andsteadying my hands. The back and neck

pains are gone. This arrangement alsoallows me to rest a wooden board onmy knees for closer work when neces-sary.

Find a chair that won't be insultedby paint stains and sawdust, push it upto your workbench, then craft a way toallow you to work with your hands atrest on your legs. Rather than straining

to reach up to work, your hands arerelaxed and free and at table level.You can work for hours without strain.It's the only way to go. (See Figure 4.)

UTILITY TABLES. These tables willcome in handy for your kit box, other

parts you want out of the way, measur-ing tools, and some of the plan sheets,


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FIGURE 4. The Mastini Booster. from any windows, install a small bath-room-type exhaust fan above your benchand connected to a dryer hose ventedto the outside.

SLOP SINK.It's also extremely impor-

tant to have a slop sink nearby. You don'twant to walk a mile to wash yourbrushes, fill your jar, or get a few dropsof water to dilute your glue. Unless youlive alone or would like to shortly avoid using the kitchen sink.

SHELVES. The more shelves you caninstall on the walls of your work area,the easier your life will be. Unlike boxes,shelves display their contents at a glance,saving time and temper. Masonite per-forated board (pegboard) with remov-able hooks also is a lifesaver.

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Ship Modeling Simplified Part 1