Shoreline Management Guide€¦ · Organisme de bassin versant de la baie Missisquoi, 2012 Shoreline Management Guide 2012 Edition Protecting the quality of life of lakes and watercourses

Organisme de bassin versant de la baie Missisquoi, 2012

Shoreline Management GuideProtecting the quality of life of lakes and watercourses2012 Edition

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Production : Organisme de bassin versant de la baie Missisquoi – January 2012

Research and writing: Julie Bellefroid, Chantal d’Auteuil

Translation: Eve Krakow

Illustrations: Marie Bilodeau

Graphic design: ATTENTION design+

This document was prepared with the participation of the Ministère du Développement durable, de l’Environnement et des Parcs, as well as the Regroupement des organismes de bassin versant du Québec, as part of Quebec’s Blue-Green Algae Action Plan.

This document was produced for information and educational purposes only. The OBVBM and its partners assume no responsibilityfor any problem associated with the use of the information provided.

Organisme de bassin versant de la baie Missisquoi2, Adhémar-Cusson, Bedford, Québec, J0J 1A0Telephone: 450-248-0100Fax: 450-248-0152Email: [email protected]

What a joy to live on the water’s edge! But this good fortune requires that shoreline property owners be highly adaptable due to the changing nature ofaquatic environments. Moreover, this privilege is associated with a collective responsibility toward the lake or river being used. Carelessness near a body ofwater, without any protection measures, quickly results in a deterioration of thequality of the water and of the aquatic environment, in just a few years. Lifealong the water then becomes much less idyllic, and aquatic pleasures becomeonly a distant childhood memory!

Quality of Life onthe Water’s Edge

Protecting lakes and watercourses

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One of the fundamental conditionsfor improving water quality is thatall property owners around a lake,river or stream apply waterprotection principles. Jointprotection of aquatic environmentsis a way to ensure the long-term,sustainable use of the water for alltypes of activities.

The guide for shoreline managementis a synthesis of the various notionsrelating to the protection oflakeshores, riverbanks and littoralzones.

This guide provides a simple methodfor evaluating each type of shore.Owners can then choose easy-to-apply solutions for their property.

At the end of the guide, amanagement practices checklistallows owners to verify if protectionprinciples are being applied on theirproperty. Property owners can thenset their own priorities for action.Should they require moreinformation, references aresuggested.

This document was prepared by theOrganisme de bassin versant de labaie Missisquoi (OBVBM) with theparticipation of the Association pourla protection de l’environnement dulac Selby (APELS).

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Protecting bodies of water

The value of a body of water is better protected when it is surrounded by greenery.

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Follow the Guide!

1. Observing the Riparian Habitat The different zones to be protected...............7

Shoreline........................................................................................8

Riparian Strip ...............................................................................8

Illustration 1: Location of the different riparian zones

Bank ................................................................................................10

Littoral zone ...............................................................................10

2. Taking the Necessary Measures .....................11Describing the riparian zones ...........................................12

Identifying the type of shoreline development........13

Applying for permits...............................................................13

3. Identifying Problems...........................................17Soil erosion .................................................................................18

Water contamination .............................................................18

Deterioration of aquatic environments........................19

Synthesis tablesRules for shoreline enhancement .........................................20

4. Observing the Golden Rules .........................23Riparian land .............................................................................24

Riparian strip .............................................................................24

Views and water access .......................................................24

Riparian vegetation ................................................................25

Bank stabilization....................................................................25

Protecting the littoral zone................................................26

5. Determining the Type of Shoreline Development .............................29Grass shoreline.........................................................................30

Rip-rap shoreline .....................................................................33

Shorewall ....................................................................................36

Natural shoreline ....................................................................39

Synthesis tablesTrees, shrubs and herbaceous plants...................................42

6. Choosing Suitable Plants ...............................45Sun exposure and type of soil..........................................46

Water level and roots ...........................................................46

Trees to keep the shoreline cool ............................................47

Shrubs for stability .........................................................................51

Herbaceous plants for ground cover....................................56

7. Successful Planting ..............................................61When and where to plant ...................................................62

How to plant..............................................................................62

How to seed...............................................................................64

Planting in rip-rap ..................................................................64

Caring for the plants .............................................................64

8. Drawing Up an Action Plan.............................67Developing shoreline grounds.........................................68

Protecting the riparian strip ..............................................68

Controlling erosion ................................................................69

Protecting the littoral zone................................................69

Glossary ..............................................................................................70

Reference Sources ...........................................................................71

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Shoreline property owners should not fight the aquatic environment but, rather,adapt to it. To get to know the aquatic environment, it’s important to spend sometime observing it, in order to gain a good understanding of and respect for therole of the different zones along the water’s edge: the shoreline, the riparian strip,the bank and the littoral zone.

1Observing the Riparian HabitatThe different zones to be protected7

Shoreline“Shoreline” is a general termthat designates the landbordering a body of water.The groundwater body (water table)is very high along the shoreline, i.e.at about the same height as the lakeor watercourse. The groundwateralso feeds the body of water,especially during the summer. Thereis therefore very close contactbetween the shoreline and the bodyof water, whether from thegroundwater or from surface runoff(i.e. rainwater or melted snow).Vegetation along the riverbankabsorbs the water surplus fromshoreline land as well as the variouscontaminants along the surface andin the ground.

Riparian stripThe “riparian strip” denotes a“lakeshore or riverbank,” whichare the terms used in theProtection Policy forLakeshores, Riverbanks,Littoral Zones and Floodplainsto set out a minimumprotection area.This strip of land must be at least 10 m wide (see section 2). In itsnatural state, the lakeshore orriverbank contains herbaceousplants, shrubs and trees that playseveral vital roles: keeping the soil inplace, filtering the water, reducingthe water temperature by creatingshade, and providing a habitat forwildlife. It is a buffer zone thatprotects property owners fromproblems caused by the lake or thewatercourse, such as flooding,waves, strong winds, erosion, waterwarming, algae and aquatic plants.

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Protecting lakeshores and riverbanks

The regulations set out in theProtection Policy forLakeshores, Riverbanks,Littoral Zones and Floodplainsare applied in municipalzoning bylaws. Propertyowners should also check theirmunicipality’s various bylawsconcerning mowing andplanting along the shoreline,as the width of the protectedarea may differ from onemunicipality to another.

High-water mark

Riparian strip (at least 10 metres wide)

Shoreline, up to terrestrial forest vegetation

Littoral zone

Bank

Slope toe

Slope face

Slope crest

Location of the different riparian zones

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Bank“Bank” is a term that refers tothe raised section of theshoreline.The bank may be very abrupt or itmay be a very gentle slope (beach,floodplain, wetland). The steeper theslope, the more it is sensitive toerosion (soil loss). Waves hit thebank harder when the slope is steep,as opposed to a gentle slope wherethe wave’s energy is dissipated.Natural banks covered withvegetation are more resistant to theimpact of waves and to ice. Aquaticplants in the water, in front of thebank, can also protect against waves.

Littoral zoneThe “littoral zone” is theaquatic zone along the bank,usually a shallow-water area.The littoral zone is very vulnerableto all kinds of disturbances. Aquaticgrasses provide food and shelter fora wide variety of organisms andmake excellent fish nurseries. Thiszone is highly sensitive to increasesin water temperature, contaminationcoming from the shoreline, andsilting caused by sediment input.

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The Government of Quebec adopted the Protection Policy for Lakeshores, Riverbanks, Littoral Zones and Floodplains to allow shoreline property owners toresolve the various problems caused by poor management or practices that areharmful to the aquatic and shoreline environments. Everyone must take the necessary measures!

2Taking the Necessary MeasuresCharacterization of riparian zones11

When planning or making changesto developments on your property, itis preferable to start by locating thezones and identifying the type ofdevelopment on the property. Thisprocess will help you to draft a plan,which may be required to apply for apermit from the municipality. To thisend, please consult the officialbrochures (see Reference Sources).

Describing the riparian zones Locating the high-water mark(HWM)The HWM represents the highestlevel reached by water during floodseason, with a probability of onceevery two years. This can bedetermined by referring to thegreyish marks left on trees and onstabilization structures, or to thevegetative species in wetlands. Amunicipal inspector or shorelinedevelopment specialists can helplocate this level.

Evaluating the bank slopeThe bank slope can be evaluated byeye or more precisely by calculatingits height and its depth from the topof the slope (see illustration 2 andtable 1). Determine as much aspossible about the condition of thebank (ground type, erosion, state ofthe vegetation, etc.) and of thesupporting structures (see section 3,Identifying Problems).

Locating the riparian stripboundary In order to restore lakes andwatercourses, there must be a bufferzone of at least 10 metres, or 15 metres if the slope is 30 percentor more. This strip of land to beprotected is measured horizontallyfrom the high-water mark, along theland. Characteristics of the riparianstrip and problems can also benoted (see section 3).

Describing the littoral zone Problems can be identified in orderto measure the progress of therestoration: slope, depth, sedimentthickness, aquatic plants,filamentous algae, odours,infrastructures present, current uses,etc. (see section 3).

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Measuring the riparian strip

At the high-water mark, a tree or pole can be used as an anchor point to measure the horizontal area of the 10 m riparian strip, or 15 m if the slope is greater than 30%.

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Identifying thetype of shorelinedevelopmentThe type of developmentpresent is important because itwill help to find the mostsuitable solutions.Section 4 of this guide presents thegolden rules for all types ofdevelopment, while section 5proposes solutions for the maintypes of shoreline developments.There are four major types; eachproperty may include one or severaltypes, on different sections of theshoreline.

Applying for permitsHomeowners must apply for apermit from the municipality,while businesses andmunicipalities must requestauthorization from theMinistère du Développementdurable, de l’Environnement etdes Parcs (MDDEP).A plan is required when applying fora permit for major work along theshoreline, but it is not mandatory forplanting or for small developments.Before making any changes to theshoreline, property owners mustconsult a municipal inspector, whowill send the file to the municipalregional county (MRC) ifnecessary.

Four types of shorelinedevelopment

> Grass shoreline (grass up to the edge of the land, with or without beach)

> Rip-rap shoreline (bare rip-rap or with vegetation)

> Shorewall (verticalstructure)

> Natural shoreline (natural or planted vegetation)

10%

30%

70%

Illustration 2 : Incline of various slopes in percentages

> If the slope is 30% or greater, thewidth of the riparian strip must be 15 metres. For slopes less than 30%,the riparian strip must be 10 metreswide.

> The slope is equal to the height divided by the depth, multiplied byone hundred.

Example: 1.5 metre / 5 metres x 100 = 30%A 100% slope is not a 90 degree (vertical) slope, but rather a 45 degree slope (see table 1). Theslope can also be described by indicating the height-to-depth ratio: a 1 in 2 slope (1:2).

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5 m

1.5 m

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Table 1 : Slope value equivalents

Y:X Ratio Percentage Angle (Y in X) (Y/X times 100) (arctan (Y/X))

2 : 1 200 % 63 degrees (2 in 1 slope) (2/1 x 100) (arctan(2))

1 : 1 100 % 45 degrees (1 in 1 slope) (1/1 x 100) (arctan(1))

1 : 1,5 * 66 % 33 degrees (1 in 1.5 slope) (1/1,5 x 100) (arctan(0.6))

1 : 2 ** 50 % 27 degrees (1 in 2 slope) (1/2 x 100) (arctan(0.5))

1 : 3 33 % 18 degrees (1 in 3 slope) (1/3 x 100) (arctan(0.3))

Y

X

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1

3

> Calculation of the equivalent isperformed as follows: a 1 in 2slope (1:2) is a slope that is 1 mhigh and 2 m deep; 1 divided by2 times 100 gives 50%. Tochange slope percentages intoslope angles, an inversetrigonometric function is used:the arctangent of the Y/X slopegives the slope in degrees. Thisfunction can be found on aregular calculator (tan-1) orusing online calculators foundon the Internet.

* 1:1.5 slopes are often used inagriculture to dig trenches

** 1:2 is the minimumrecommended slope tostabilize a bank

Quebec’s lakes date from the last ice age, making them some 10,000 years old;yet many are undergoing accelerated deterioration. The best way to combat thedeterioration of lakes and watercourses is to occupy the shoreline in the mostnatural way possible.

3Identifying ProblemsDeterioration of the aquatic ecosystem17

Soil erosionErosion due to surface waterrunoff: locating eroded sectorsof the land.Rainwater and surface runoff formrivulets that dig into the soil andcreate gullies, becoming a problemthat requires attention. The erosionis amplified when the ground is bareor when the grass is too short.Erosion results in a loss of goodsurface soil and carries soil particlestoward the body of water. This majorproblem requires the shorelineowner’s constant vigilance.

Bank erosion: identifying thetype of erosion. Gullying zones in the bank or alongthe top of the slope can causechunks of land to break off orcollapse. Waves and ice can undercutthe foot of the bank, causing theoverhanging land to eventuallycrumble. Erosion of the bank canlead to a significant loss of landeach year. Even a retaining wall orrip-rap can be subject to erosion(along the top of the slope andbehind the wall, between the rocks,on the sides, etc.). Erosion can alsooccur along boundary ditches andstreams.

Water contaminationSurface contamination:identifying all sources ofcontamination on the land. Anything that gets washed by therain might contaminate surfacewater and therefore the body ofwater: fertilizers, soaps, pesticides,garbage, oils and greases, toxicproducts, chemically treatedmaterials, etc.

Underground contamination:reducing potentialcontamination through septicinstallations and undergrounddrainage.The filtration capacity of water bythe ground is limited. Undergroundcontamination can spread throughthe underground water that feedsthe body of water. Because the watertable is very high, contamination canresurface and affect the health ofshoreline residents as well as that ofthe body of water.

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Artificial shoreline

A shoreline that is very exposed to runoff leads to a deterioration of

the water body.

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Deterioration of aquatic environmentsSelf-purification: the naturalpurification potential of a lakeor watercourse.PThe more oxygen the watercontains, the better its self-purification, because bacteria needoxygen to break down organicmatter (algae, aquatic plants, dead

animals, etc.). Yet this capacity forself-purification is limited anddepends on the type of river or lake.When exceeded, there is anaccumulation of sediment, foul-smelling putrefaction and thedisappearance of oxygen in thewater, affecting all aquatic species ofthe food chain.

Eutrophication: evolution of alake toward its filling.Sediments and nutrients broughtinto the lake (organic matter,fertilizers) facilitate the proliferationof aquatic plants. The lake willnaturally fill up after thousands ofyears. Human presence around thelake, however, accelerates thisphenomenon. It is thereforeimportant to reduce all inputs ofnutrients and sediments to the lakeby avoiding urban-typedevelopments: impervious roads andparking lots, untreated stormsewers, clearing of naturalvegetation, horticulture usingfertilizers, etc.

Vegetated shorelineA shoreline where human occupation

is the least visible possible helps protectthe body of water.

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Rules for shoreline managementTable 2: Synthesis of rules to follow

Zone to be protected Rules to follow

Riparian land > Concentrate activity as far as possible from the water > Never dump grass cuttings into the water or along the water’s edge, as they contain phosphorus > Never develop the land or plant trees on top of a septic drain field

Views and water > Limit the cutting of vegetation to a maximum width of 5 metresaccess > Set up the water access diagonally to the shoreline so as to reduce runoff

Riparian strip > Keep use of the riparian strip to a strict minimum (10 metre buffer strip; 15 metre strip if the slope is greater than 30%)

> Verify the municipality’s bylaws regarding mowing and vegetation of the riparian strip, as the width may differ for this specific purpose

Riparian vegetation > Introduce the three vegetation strata: herbaceous plants, shrubs and trees (trees must be planted at least 3 metres from the top edge of the bank)

> Plant only native species in the riparian strip

Bank stabilization > Choose the most natural stabilization methods possible > Never use wood treated with creosote, copper arsenate or other toxic substances in riparian zones

Littoral zone > Foster the free circulation of water and oxygen > Avoid all types of direct or indirect contamination > When controlling aquatic plants, do not weed out more than 15% of the aquatic grass-bed area

Shoreline type RecommendationsGrass Developing > Reconsider the riparian strip as a buffer zone by letting the grass grow and adding shrubs > Proceed gradually, creating maintained and natural green islands Protecting > Do not cut the grass too short > Do not set up flower beds in the riparian strip > Do not use fertilizer or even compost in the riparian strip

Rip-rap Developing > If the rip-rap needs to be redone, carry out work so as to reduce the bank slope to 50% (1 in 2) or less if possible > To improve existing rip-rap, plant hardy species Protecting > Do not create rip-rap by dumping rocks onto the bank > Do not leave rip-rap bare, as this heats up littoral waters

Shorewall Developing > If necessary, have the shorewall removed and replace with a different stabilization method > Modify the shorewall arrangement so as to reduce eroding forces (water circulation, preserving soil behind

shorewall and on top of slope) > Add plants to stabilize shorewall and reduce its warming effect Protecting > Do not rebuild the shorewall, even if it has collapsed > Do not put in rip-rap in front of a shorewall > Do not leave a shorewall bare, as this heats up littoral waters

Natural Developing > Take care of the trees in the riparian strip > Shrubs can be pruned to keep the riparian strip healthy Protecting > Do not let trees grow on the septic drain field or along the bank > Find out about the toxicity of plant species present

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Rules for shoreline managementTable 3: Synthesis of recommendations according to shoreline type

A healthy aquatic environment has a beautiful biodiversity, that is, a wide varietyof living organisms, in the water, in the littoral zone and on the shore. When thisnatural equilibrium is not respected and the biodiversity destroyed, rather unpleasant consequences result from the deterioration of the lakes and watercourses. Better to follow a few basic shoreline management rules.

4Observing the Golden RulesBasic rules for all shoreline types23

Riparian landCarry out activities as far aspossible from the water.Lawns should be limited to aroundthe house. The soil must be wellcared for so as to avoid having touse fertilizers or pesticides. Neverdump grass cuttings into the wateror along the water’s edge becauseas they decompose, they producephosphorus.

There are several ways to createnatural filtering mechanisms forsurface runoff, which can also helpto cleanse some of the pollutants: afew examples are sedimentretention ponds, rain gardens in lowareas, and the use of porous ratherthan impermeable materials. Neverdevelop the land nor plant treeson top of a septic drain field, asthis could obstruct it.Contaminants could then resurface,causing odours and healthproblems.

Views and wateraccessLimit the cutting of vegetationto a maximum width of 5 metres to enjoy the view,leisure activities and access tothe water. The water access must be diagonalto the shoreline in order to slowsurface runoff. The rest of theriparian strip should be left to grownaturally. More plants can be added

if desired, but it is important not touse any fertilizer. Use materials thatfoster water infiltration rather thansurface runoff. Runoff can also bedirected to either side of a path,toward bordering vegetation. Slopesgreater than 30% require steps or awinding path.

Riparian stripKeep use of the riparian stripto a strict minimum.As shoreline property owners, it isimportant for us to realize that theriparian strip (10 metres minimum)is an integral component of thewater body. Even though it belongsto us, when using it, we must thinkof ourselves as visitors and strive toprotect it, so that we may continueenjoying its benefits for a long, longtime.

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Mesure d’une ouverture de 5 mètres de largeurL’ouverture de 5 mètres de largeur permet d’avoir une belle vue sur le plan d’eau

et d'aménager un sentier avec un accès à l’eau, alors que le reste de la bande riveraine devrait être végétalisé..

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Riparian vegetationIdeally, the shoreline shouldcontain the three strata(vertical levels) of naturallyoccurring vegetation:herbaceous plants, shrubs and trees.The foliage of each of these strataplays an important role inintercepting raindrops, reducing theirspeed and lessening their impact onthe ground. Their intertwined rootsystems hold the soil in place atdifferent depths. Moss and humusgroundcover must also be protectedfrom drying out or being stepped on.

Bank stabilizationChoose the most naturalstabilization methods possible. Natural stabilization methods lastlonger and cost less. Sometimes thebank slope may need to be gradedbefore being stabilized. Evenmethods using wood or stone mustinclude plantings to ensure theirstability and reduce water warming.Never use wood that has beentreated with creosote or copperarsenate, as these are toxicsubstances.

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Native species

It is important to preserve andplant native species that arewell adapted to our aquaticenvironments, in order to avoidthe invasion of exotic speciessuch as wild bamboo (Japaneseknotweed), commonwaterweed, and goutweed.

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Protecting the littoral zoneFoster the free circulation ofwater and oxygen by means offloating or pile structures;avoid all types of direct orindirect contamination. When water no longer circulates, itheats up and becomes stagnant andputrid. Gas exchange must also beallowed amid the sediments toensure their health. Sedimentsshould therefore not be coveredwith impermeable sheets. Oxygen inwater and sediments is essential forthe decomposition of organicmatter. If there is no more oxygen,matter will continue to biodegrade,but very slowly, causing foul-smelling gases. Whencontrolling aquatic plants, it isimportant not to weed out morethan 15% of the aquatic grass-bed area.

Illustration 3: Redevelopment according to the basic rules

> Low-maintenance lawn with goodsoil aeration; untreated terrace; vegetable garden outside the riparianstrip; use of compost and rainwaterfor gardening

> Diagonal water access and view, nomore than 5 metres wide, usingporous materials and replantingalong border

> No activity in the riparian strip

> No mowing in the riparian strip; presence of the three strata of vegetation

> Stabilization using rip-rap at thebank foot, restricted to the highlyproblematic areas, with planting inthe rip-rap

> Floating dock; limited control ofaquatic plants; motorless boat

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Mistakes may have been made in the past, and the problems just get worse overthe years. Yet it is never too late to restore a shoreline. It may take some time, butin the end, all the living organisms that depend on the aquatic environment —including shoreline property owners — will be able to live together in a sustainable way!

5Determining theType of ShorelineDevelopment Solutions for each type29

Grass shoreline

DevelopingReconsider the riparian strip asa buffer zone by letting thegrass grow and adding shrubs.You can also plant floweringperennials to make your waterfrontlawn more attractive.

Proceed gradually, creatingmaintained and natural greenislands.You can create small, well-maintained green islands along theriparian strip on the side facing yourresidence, and entirely naturalsections on the side facing the water.This will let you enjoy a verypleasant and more varied view, withvisual openings onto the aquaticenvironment, and even to discoversome plants that are very appealingin terms of their colour, scent oredible fruit, and which attract birdsand butterflies.

Maintain the riparian strip byrespecting protectionprinciples.If necessary, you can removeundesirable plants to avoid healthproblems, cut shrubs to the desiredheight and prune dead branchesfrom trees. However, herbaceousplants should be left to growbetween the shrubs. In a thick, lushriparian strip, undesirable plantssuch as ragweed and poison ivy haveless chance of taking over.

When the lawn goes right to the water’s edge, there is a problem of enrichment of the water ratherthan of the land.Even if no fertilizer is used, a grass shoreline enriches the water because it is not as effective as ashrub shoreline in retaining water and absorbing phosphorus. Moreover, when the grass is too short,it allows the rain to detach soil particles that contain phosphorus and to drag them toward thebody of water. An accumulation of phosphorus-rich sediment then occurs, with all the ensuingdamaging consequences.

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Developing> Reconsider the riparian strip as a

buffer zone

> Gradually develop the riparian stripby alternating maintained and natural green zones

> Maintain the shrubs in the riparianstrip and let plants grow between theshrubs

Protecting> Do not cut the lawn too short

> Do not set up flower beds in the riparian strip

> Do not use fertilizer or compost inthe riparian strip

Illustration 4: Redevelopment of a grass shoreline

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ProtectingDo not mow your lawn too lowbecause short grass dries outmore quickly.The roots die and can no longer holdback the soil. Longer grass lies downover the ground when it rains,protecting the soil from surfacerunoff. Note as well that use of amotorized edger right to the edge ofthe water fosters the proliferation ofmore invasive plants, such as poisonivy, ragweed, goutweed and burrs,because they grow back morequickly than others.

Do not set up flower bedsusing wood-chip mulch in theriparian strip as these couldcause erosion.Mulch does not protect against theheavy runoff that carries soilparticles toward the body of water.Flower beds can weaken the top ofthe bank and cause gully erosion.Herbaceous plants should be left togrow between the shrubs becausethey will protect the soil from runoff.To prevent shrubs from beingchoked out in the first few years, youcan clear around seedlings byplacing a plastic collar on theground around the stem and byremoving weeds from the plantingsaucer.

Do not use fertilizer orcompost in the riparian strip,because even compostcontains phosphorus andnitrogen.You can use nitrogen-fixing plants ifthe soil is very poor. But it is best tolet nature take its course, so that theplants become more resilient.

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Rip-rap shoreline

DevelopingIf the rip-rap needs to beredone, it is better to first havethe slope graded, if possible toless than 50%, to install ageotextile, and to plan forspace to plant shrubs. It is not necessary to install rip-rapalong the entire height of the bank.Usually, rip-rap is needed only at thefoot of the bank, with a rock toe key(retaining device) installedunderwater, in the littoral zone.Examples of different types of rip-

rap can be found in the documentsproduced by the MDDEP (see MDDEPWebsite) and in municipaldocuments. Planting is then carriedout in the rip-rap, on the bank andon the top of the slope. This is majorwork that will require a permit fromthe municipality. It is preferable touse stones that blend in with thelandscape; in a few years, the rip-rapwill disappear completely under thevegetation, while ensuring theshoreline’s stability.

To improve existing rip-rap,vegetate with hardy plants.Make sure the plants do notoverheat. Rip-rap heats up the roots,which can eventually kill the plants.To avoid this, follow the prescribedmethod for planting (section 7,illustration 9). If waves are eatingaway at the soil on top of thestructure, behind the rocks, you canremove the stones that are on topand install a geotextile to retain thesoil on the bank.

The more we fight against water, the harder it strikes! This physical principle is behind manyshoreline problems, in particular for shorewalls. Gentle rip-rap slopes are preferable because they disperse the water’s hydraulic forces. The wavesroll over and break on the rocks as they go up the slope. Rip-rap lasts longer and is easier to repair.However, even though it is more natural than a concrete wall because it lets the water through andis used for shelters by wildlife, rip-rap still warms the waters. For this reason, it is important to vegetate the rip-rap, so as to improve the natural balance between the bank and the littoral zone.

Small shrubs with soil cores areplanted into slits in the geotextile,and the stones are then replaced.The geotextile is covered up with alayer of surface soil, or seeded withherbaceous plants (see seedingmethod in section 7).

ProtectingDo not create rip-rap bydumping rocks onto the bank.Properly done rip-rap should have arock toe key in the littoral zone tostabilize the rocks so that they donot tumble down over time. Thereshould also be a geotextile coveringthe soil before putting down therocks. The geotextile lets the waterthrough but holds the soil in placeso that it does not escape inbetween the rocks.

Do not leave rip-rap entirelybare, as this will heat up thelittoral waters.To achieve rapid vegetation of rip-rap, shoreline vines can be used tocover the stabilizing structure.However, the vines must becontrolled so that they do notinvade the trees. Do not use exoticspecies such as wild bamboo(Japanese knotweed). Once it takeshold in the rip-rap, bamboo is verydifficult to remove, and it riskstaking over the entire area of land,and the neighbour’s too! Fullyvegetated rip-rap is stable and willimprove the aquatic landscape.

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Illustration 5: Redevelopment of a rip-rap shoreline

Developing> If the rip-rap needs to be redone,

have the slope mechanically graded

> Improve existing rip-rap by planting(see section 7 for appropriatemethod)

Protecting> Do not create rip-rap by dumping

rocks onto the bank

> Do not leave rip-rap bare, as thisheats up the littoral waters

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Shorewall

DevelopingIf necessary, have theshorewall removed and replaceit with a different method ofstabilization.A wall can be replaced with rip-rapat the base of the bank andvegetation on the rest of the bank,after having reduced the bank slope.The work is costly and requires a

permit from the municipality, but itwill last for a very long time.

Modify the shorewallarrangement so as to reduceeroding forces.Openings can be made in theshorewall to let the water through. Ageotextile can be installed behindthe wall, on top of the slope. Thisfabric will let water through, but

hold the soil in place. Holes can bemade in the geotextile to plantshrubs. The shrubs will absorb thewater behind the wall and hold thesoil in place. Do not plant trees thatcould grow onto the wall and makeit fall.

Despite the impression that it can withstand anything, a shorewall (retaining wall) is the type ofstabilization structure that causes the most problems along the water’s edge.

Except in very rare cases, a wall is not necessary, whether it is made of concrete, joining stones orgabions (metal baskets filled with rocks). It is an engineering structure used for hydraulic structures(dams, canals, etc.) or to prevent waterfront constructions from collapsing into the water.Because a wall is vertical, it has to fight against the forces of elements both in front (waves, ice,drifting tree trunks) and behind (groundwater, tree roots, escaping soil). Bit by bit, it ends up crack-ing and collapsing. When one gabion breaks, it brings down all the others, deforming the structure,until the whole thing gives way. In all cases, walls are expensive to maintain. In addition, they accu-mulate heat during the day and warm up the waters even at night, which is very harmful to the lit-toral zone.

Illustration 6: Redevelopment of a shorewall

Redeveloping> Have the shorewall removed if

necessary

> Modify the shorewall so as to reduceeroding forces

> Add plants to stabilize soil behindthe shorewall and to reduce itswarming effect

Protecting> Do not rebuild the shorewall, even if

it has collapsed

> Do not put rip-rap in front of a shorewall

> Do not leave a shorewall bare andunprotected

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Vegetate the shorewall so as tostabilize it and reduce itswarming effect on the littoralwaters.If the water level in front of the wallis fairly low in the summer, you canplant shrubs that like to “dip theirfeet” in water, such as little treewillow and sweet gale, as well asaquatic plants. These plants willprotect the wall from the waves andcreate shade on the wall, reducingits temperature. The top of the wallshould be planted with hangingplants such as riverbank grape andshrubs that will stabilize the soilbehind the wall.

ProtectingDo not rebuild a shorewall,even if it has collapsed,because other stabilizationtechniques are more effectiveand less expensive.It is possible to repair a section of ashorewall, but it is prohibited torebuild the entire structure. Contactyour municipal inspector forinformation. It is better to leave theshorewall in place, even if it haspartially collapsed, and to cover itwith plants so that it disappearsnaturally, enhancing the land’sappearance.

Do not put rip-rap in front of a shorewall.This is prohibited because it involvesfilling up the littoral zone, a sectionthat usually belongs to theGovernment of Quebec (natural high water mark), and this changesthe aquatic habitat. It is alsoforbidden to raise a property bycarrying out stabilization work.Check with the municipal inspector

to find out what kinds of repair workare allowed.

Do not leave a shorewall barebecause it will continue to heatup the littoral waters.Warm water fosters the proliferationof submersed aquatic plants (watermilfoil, waterweed), bunches offilamentous and floating algae, andblue-green algae. However, goodaquatic plants in front of theshorewall should be kept; emergentspecies such as arrowhead,pickerelweed, reeds and rushescreate shade and lessen the impactof waves from boats.

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Natural shoreline

DevelopingTake care of the trees that arein the riparian strip.Fast-growing trees, such asManitoba maple and poplars, havebrittle branches and are thereforemore fragile. They should be prunedin a way that counterbalances theweight of the tree toward the shorerather than toward the water.Remember that visual openingsshould be no more than 5 metreswide. However, it is permitted to cutdown dead trees, upon obtaining apermit from the municipality.

Shrubs can be pruned to keepthe riparian strip healthy.While certain problematic speciesshould be removed, they shouldalways be replaced by other, nativespecies. By maintaining a healthybiodiversity, there is less risk fromdiseases that affect the plants of asame species, as often occurs withhedges or rows of trees. It is alsopreferable to have different ageclasses for each plant species.Property owners can also enjoy themany edible native plants, includinghawthorne, choke cherry, staghornsumac (vinegar tree), cranberrybush,ostrich fern (fiddlehead), wildstrawberry and riverbank grape. Caremust always be taken, however, to

ensure their natural regenerationafter picking.

Remove invasive exotic species fromthe riparian strip, such as wildbamboo (Japanese knotweed),common waterweed (reed in theshape of a duster) and purpleloosestrife.

Even natural shorelines require maintenance.Trees that become too heavy and lean over can cause the bank to topple into the water.Some foreign invasive species can cause problems if they are not removed as soon as they appear.Other species can pose health risks.

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ProtectingDo not let trees grow on theseptic drain field or on thebank.On the septic drain field, tree rootscan obstruct the pipes, and the trees’weight might compact the soil. Onthe bank, trees are likely to createerosion zones as they lean towardthe water over time. When cuttingdown trees on the bank, however, itis important to leave the stump inplace so as not to destabilize theground. The interlocking roots willcontinue to hold the soil in place.

Some plant species are toxic;family members and visitorsshould be informed.Do not eat false hellebore leaves(also known as itchweed or Indianpoke), milkweed sap (causescramps), or berries from American orEuropean elder, red baneberry or theCanada yew. Do not touch poison ivy(causes skin inflammation) or nettle(has stinging hairs). Young childrenshould be taught not to eat plantsor mushrooms, and reminded ofbasic hygiene rules when playingoutside.

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Illustration 7: Development of a natural shoreline

Developing> Take care of trees that are in the

riparian strip

> Shrubs can be pruned to maintain ahealthy riparian strip

Protecting> Do not let trees grow on the septic

field drain or on the bank

> Find out which plant species are toxicor poisonous

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Trees, shrubs and herbaceous plantsTable 4: Summary of recommended trees and shrubs according to

ground humidity

Plants Wet or dry ground Wetter ground Dryer ground

Trees Bitternut Silver Maple Red Oak (Carya cordiformis, caryer cordiforme) (Acer saccharinum, érable argenté) (Quercus rubra, chêne rouge) White Cedar Black Ash Rum Cherry (Thuya occidentalis, thuja) (Fraxinus nigra, frêne noir) (Prunus serotina, cerisier tardif)

American Linden (Tilia americana, tilleul d’Amérique)

Shrubs

Tall shrubs Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina, vinaigrier) American Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana, sorbier d’Amérique)

Small shrubs Red Osier Dogwood Buttonbush Common Juniper (Cornus sericea, cornouiller stolonifère) (Cephalanthus occidentalis, céphalante occidental) (Juniperus communis, genévrier commun)

Canadian Elder American Fly Honeysuckle Large-leaved Meadow-sweet (Sambucus canadensis, sureau du Canada) (Lonicera canadensis, chèvrefeuille du Canada) (Spiraea latifolia, spirée à larges feuilles)

Waxberry Sweet Gale Virginia Creeper (Symphoricarpos albus, symphorine blanche) (Myrica gale, myrique baumier) (Parthenocissus quinquefolia, vigne vierge) Stalked Willow Cranberrybush (Salix petiolaris, saule à long pétiole) (Viburnum trilobum, viorne trilobé)

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Trees, shrubs and herbaceous plantsTable 5: Summary of recommended herbaceous plants according to

ground humidity

Plants Wet or dry ground Wetter ground Dryer ground

Ferns Lady Fern Ostrich Fern Hay-scented Fern (Athyrium filix-femina, athyrie fougère femelle) (Mattheuccia strupthiopteris, fougère à l’autruche) (Dennstaedtia punctilobula, dennstaedtia

Spinulose Shield-Fern à lobules ponctués) (Dryopteris spinulosa, dryoptéride spinuleuse)

Flowering plants Swamp Milkweed Harlequin Blueflag Wild Columbine (Asclepias incarnata, asclépiade incarnate (Iris versicolor, iris versicolore) (Aquilegia canadensis, ancolie du Canada)

Spotted Joe-Pye-Weed Fireweed (Eupatorium maculatum, eupatoire maculée) (Epilobium angustifolium, épilobe à feuilles étroites)

Small Forget-me-not Blackeyed Susan (Myosotis laxa, myosotis laxiflore) (Rudbeckia hirta, rudbeckie hérissée)

Grasses Big Bluestem Canada Reedgrass Tufted Hairgrass (Andropogon gerardii, barbon de Gérard) (Calamagrostis canadensis, calamagostride du Canada) (Deschampsia cespitosa, deschampsie cespiteuse)

Canada Wildrye Tall Glyceria Indiangrass (Elymus canadensis, élyme du Canada) (Glyceria grandis, glycérie géante) (Sorghastrum nutans, faux sorgho penché)

Sedge Gray’s Sedge (Carex grayii, carex de Gray)

Rush Common Rush (Juncus effusus, jonc épars)

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Choosing Suitable Plants

When planting along the water, it’s important to choose native species, that is,species that were naturally present in Quebec long before colonization and, ideally, in the region of the shoreline property. To obtain information about thedesired species, the official Latin name of the plant is used. This avoids confusionoften caused by common names or by mistakes in translation.

How to choose native species6

Sun exposure andtype of soilFind out about the plant’sneeds in terms of sun exposureand soil type.Although some plants do nottolerate shade, generally, nativeshoreline species like a variety ofconditions (sun, partial shade,shade). It is also important to findout about the region’s planthardiness zone (tolerance for coldtemperatures). If the soil is toocompacted, it can be loosenedaround the plant, but no more.Choose plants that will be able towithstand the riparian strip’s naturalconditions. For the type of soil, youdo not have to conduct laboratorytests, but simply determine itstexture.

j Clay: very fine particles; whenrolled between the fingers, formsa ball and does not stain fingers;very smooth when wet

j Silt: very fine particles; whenrolled between the fingers, stainsfingers and does not form a stickyor malleable ball; floury material

j Sand: fine grains that slip throughthe fingers; does not retain water

j Loam: mix of clay, sand and silt;fairly soft and smooth when wet,but grainy

j Gravel: large particles and smallrocks

Water level androotsNext, choose species accordingto the water level and groundhumidity. Some plants tolerate flooding wellor like to have their roots in thewater (bank foot or very highgroundwater body); others prefer dryareas, on top of the bank slope.

On the bank, species that will growdeep, intertwining roots arepreferable. Choose herbaceousplants for their fine surface rootsand shrubs for their combination ofdeep and superficial intertwinedroots. Trees should be planted atleast 3 metres from the edge of thetop of the slope. They have deeperroots that generally spread out overa surface equal to that of theirfoliage.

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Trees to keep the shoreline cool

Trees are necessary for creating shade in the littoral zone, thus reducing the water temperature andcreating shade for fish.

Fast-growing trees are more fragileand their branches could snapduring storms. Some should beavoided along the water’s edgebecause they could fall over: Boxelder (mountain maple), poplars andspruce.

Do not plant trees less than 3 metres from the edge of the bankslope because they will become tooheavy and could topple, carrying thebank with them.

If the bank has a very gentle slope,species that tolerate flooding can beplanted closer to the water, such asash and silver maple.

Recommended tree species> Trees that tolerate wet or dry soil

> Trees that require moist soil

> Trees that prefer dryer soil

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Beautiful tree-lined shores

The shade that trees create is essential. It prevents the water temperature from rising and provides shadows where fish can find shelter.

Trees that toleratewet or dry soil Bitternut(Carya cordiformis, caryercordiforme) : [G] average, [H] 22 to 30 m, [W] 22 to30 m, [N] wet lowlands, [Su] sun andpartial shade, [So] moist to very wet,sandy loam to clay, [R] deeptaproots, [L] composed of 11 leaflets,dark and shiny on top, [Fl] in spring,clusters of male flowers, [Fr]inedible nuts, [A] tolerates shade.

[Or] Shagbark Hickory (Caryaovate, caryer ovale); smaller (10 to 15 m wide), produces ediblenuts, but is more sensitive to cold.

White Cedar (Thuya occidentalis, thuja, cèdre blanc): [G] rapid, [H] 15 to 20m, [W] 3.5 m, [N] calcareous rock orboggy areas, [Su] sun and partialshade, [So] moist, all types, evencompact, [R] superficial, [L] denseyellow-green foliage, scale-like, [Fr]little orange-brown cone, [A] veryornamental, rapid branching afterpruning, bird refuge (robins,chickadees, finches, pine siskins) andfood (siskins and linnets), [P]affected by deer; wind resistant ifroots are well intertwined with thoseof other trees.

[Or] Tamarack (Larix laricina,mélèze laricin), taller and wider thanthe White Cedar, can be planted ongentle slopes only because its rootsystem is shallow, but very fibrous.Does not tolerate shade and losesits golden needles in the fall, whichgrow back tender green in the spring.Birds feed on the cones (chickadees,linnets, siskins, finches, crossbills),even in winter.

Trees that requiremoist soilSilver Maple(Acer saccharinum, érable argenté):[G] very rapid, [H] 20 to 30 m, [W] 20 to 30 m, [N] wet shorelines, 150 to200 years, [Su] Sun or partial shade,[So] moist, loam to clay, [R]superficial, strong and well-developed roots, very spread out, [L]serrated, soft green, silver underside,pale yellow in fall, [Fl] reddish, [Fr]double samara, [A] attractsnumerous birds (buntings, cardinals,grosbeaks, finches, nuthatches), [P]small branches can snap in strongwinds; absorbs a lot of groundwater.

[Or] Red Maple (Acer rubrum, érable rouge), fast-growing, little redflowers in spring, beautiful scarletleaves in the fall and wide boughs toshade the shoreline. Likes moist soil,tolerates compact, dry or rocky soil,but not chalky soil; developssuperficial and non-invasive roots.

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Descriptive elements

Common, Latin and Frenchnames:

[G] Growth[H] Height

[W] Width (crown spread)[N] Natural habitat

[Su] Sun[So] Soil

[R] Roots[L] Leaves

[Fl] Flowers[Fr] Fruits

[A] Advantages[P] Problems

[Or] Other possible species

Black Ash(Fraxinus nigra, frêne noir): [G] average, [H] 15 to 22 m, [W] 10 to15 m, [N] very wet, swampy ground,[Su] full sun, [So] heavy, poor, boggy,loam to clay, [R] superficial andspread out, [L] composed of 7 to 11 dark green leaflets, golden yellowin fall, [Fl] small clusters, [Fr]samara in shape of flattened wing,[A] resistant to white-tailed deer,attracts birds (cardinals, grosbeaks,finches), [P] allergenic pollen;subject to disease from emerald ash borer.

[Or] Red Ash (Fraxinuspennsylvanica, frêne dePennsylvanie) tolerates all types ofcompact soil, grows faster and hasdeeper roots; White Ash (Fraxinusamericana, frêne d’Amérique) preferswell-drained soils where it can growdeep roots.

Trees that preferdryer soilRed Oak(Quercus rubra, chêne rouge): [G] average, [H] 22 to 30 m, [W] 22 to30 m, [N] rocky or gravel soil, 300years, [Su] full sun, [So] loam to clay,avoid calcareous soils, [R] lateraland deep root system, [L] 7 to 9notched and pointy lobes, [Fl] maleflowers in bunches, [Fr] nut withreddish-brown cap.

[Or] in all types of soil, the Bur Oak(Quercus macrocarpa, chêne à grosfruits) grows quickly, has deeptaproots with a good capacity forcapturing phosphorus, and producesedible fruit; or, Swamp White Oak(Quercus bicolour, chêne bicolour), a rare species in Quebec requiringprotection, grows well in fairly moistsandy clay or loam soils, andproduces edible nuts.

Rum Cherry(Prunus serotina, cerisier tardif): [G] rapid, [H] can reach 15 to 22 m,

[W] 10 to 15 m, [N] open areas alongwatercourses and woods, [Su] fullsun, [So] deep and fertile (does nottolerate compact soil), moderatelywet, sandy to loam, [R] deeptaproots, suckering, [L] slender andpointy, bright shiny green, [Fl] verypretty white lowers in scentedbunches, [Fr] end of August, cherriesalmost black, a bit bitter, [A] attractsbirds (buntings, cardinals, siskins,blue jays, thrushes, grosbeaks,waxwings, robins, mocking birds,orioles, woodpeckers), [P] a bitinvasive.

[Or] Choke Cherry (Prunus virgiana,cerisier de Virginie), smaller,maximum 6 to 10 m, with a goodcapacity to absorb phosphorus inthe soil.

American Linden(Tilia americana, tilleul d’amérique):[G] rapid, [H] 22 to 30 m, [W] 15 to 22 m, [N] wet and rich soil, does nottolerate compact soils, 1,000 years,[Su] shade to full sun, [So] cool andwell drained, loam, [R] 2 or 3 deep

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[Su] Sun[So] Soil

[R] Roots[L] Leaves




taproots, [L] large, dark green, heart-shaped, [Fl] whitish-yellowwith pleasant scent, [Fr] dry, globosenutlet on a leaf-shaped spatulate,[A] very rustic; provides shelter forbirds; compact foliage is ideal forcreating shade, stabilizing shorelineand breaking the wind; no allergenicpollens.

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[Su] Sun[So] Soil

[R] Roots[L] Leaves




Uprooted trees creating erosion

Trees must not be planted within 3 metres of the edge of the top of the slope, because they could fall and create erosion sites.

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Shrubs for stability

Native shrubs require littlemaintenance. Although shallow,their root systems are dense andspread out, which works well to holdthe soil in place. Many shrub speciesare very fragrant, attracting birdsand butterflies.

Shrubs that love to have wet rootscan be planted at the bottom of thebank slope, and those that preferdry soil can be planted on the top ofthe slope. On the middle of theslope, shrubs can be chosenaccording to soil conditions. Themost effective stabilizing shrubs areoften invasive ones such as alderand staghorn sumac. Never plantJapanese knotweed (wild bamboo),because it is not a native species andit is highly invasive.

Recommended shrub species> Tall shrubs

> Small shrubs, wet or dry soil

> Small shrubs, wet soil

> Small shrubs, dry soil

Shrubs enhance views rather than obscure them, and the birds they attract add colour and life tothe landscape.

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Willow shrubs along the bank

A beautiful border of willow shrubs does not hide the view onto the water.

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Cranberrybush with fruit

Many types of berry shrubs attract a wide variety of birds

along the water.

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Tall shrubsStaghorn Sumac(Rhus typhina, vinaigrier): [G] rapid,[H] 6 m, [W] 5 m, [N] forms copses inopen, dry or rocky areas, [Su] fullsun, [So] sandy, rocky and evenboggy, [R] shallow but very spreadout and suckering, [L] composed of11 to 31 leaflets, downy andpubescent, brilliant scarlet in fall,[Fl] in July, large, dense yellowish-green panicle, [Fr] in fall and winter,bright red large, dense, cone-shapedclusters covered with hairs, [A]splendid and flaming colour in fall;provides food for birds (buntings,cardinals, siskins, blue jays, thrushes,grosbeaks, waxwings, juncos, robins,chickadees, mockingbirds, orioles,warblers, woodpeckers, linnets,vireos), [P] very invasive.

American Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana, sorbierd’Amérique): [G] average, [H]generally less than 8 m, but cangrow 15 to 20 m, [W] 10 to 15 m, [N]wet areas, borders of swamps and

rocky slopes, [Su] full sun, [So]average moisture, sandy loam, [R]superficial, [L] composed of 11 to 17leaflets, pale green underneath, [Fl]May to June, clusters with flat tops,[Fr] in August, clusters of brightorange-red, [A] attracts birds in falland winter (buntings, blackbirds,blue jays, thrushes, grosbeaks,waxwings, juncos, robins, bluebirds,mockingbirds, nuthatches), [P] risk ofbacterial blight; beavers enjoy itstender bark.

[Or] Showy Mountain Ash (Sorbus decora, sorbier desmontagnes) smaller, grows 6 to 10 mtall, in all types of soil.

Small shrubs, wet or dry soilRed Osier Dogwood(Cornus sericea, cornouillerstolonifère): [G] rapid, [H] 2 m, [W] 3m, [N] wetlands and shorelines, [Su]shade to full sun, [So] all types,prefers acidic soils, toleratescompact soils, [R] superficial with

stolons (runners) [L] dark greenwith pale underside in summer,copper in fall, [Fl] spring, in flatwhite clusters, [Fr] white or bluish,fall to December, [A] stabilization ofsteep slopes, striking red branchletsin winter, attracts birds (buntings,cardinals, thrushes, grosbeaks,waxwings, robins, mockingbirds,warblers, finches and even wildturkeys), [P] prone to disease.

[Or] for wetter soil, Alternate-leaved Dogwood (Cornusalternifolia, cornouiller à feuillesalternes) a taller species, 3 to 5 m,slow growth, with blue-black fruit. A nitrogen-fixing plant that enrichespoor soils, resistant to white-taileddeer, and attracts orioles, tanagersand flycatchers.

Canadian Elder(Sambucus canadensis, sureau duCanada): [G] rapid, [H] 1.4 to 4 m, [W]1.5 to 2 m, [N] open areas, on streambanks and on the slopes of ditches,[Su] shade to full sun, [So] all types,[R] superficial, suckering, [L]

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Common, Latin and Frenchnames

[G] Growth[H] Height[W] Width

[N] Natural habitat[Su] Sun[So] Soil

[R] Roots[L] Leaves




composed of 5 to 11 leaflets, [Fl]summer, large corymbs of whiteflowers, [Fr] clusters of black berries,in fall, [A] very ornamental, ignoredby white-tailed deer, medicinalproperties, attracts birds (buntings,cardinals, thrushes, grosbeaks,waxwing, robins, bluebirds,chickadees, orioles, warblers,woodpeckers, doves, flycatchers), [P]berries potentially poisonous whennot ripe.

[Or] Scarlet Elder (Sambucusracemosa ssp. Pubens, sureaupubescent), in very wet soil, fruitpotentially poisonous.

Waxberry (Symphoricarpos albus,symphorine blanche): [G] rapid, [H] 1to 1.5 m, [W] 1 to 1.5 m, [N]mountains, rocky shorelines,limestone regions, [Su] partial shadeto full sun, [So] all types, even poorand gravelly or sandy, [R] superficialand suckering, [L] round, [Fl] inspring, groups of small creamy whiteor pink flowers, terminal and alongthe stem, [Fr] white globular berriesthat remain until spring, [A] attractsbirds, even in winter, salt-resistant,[P] fruit is potentially poisonous.

Small shrubs, wet soilButtonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis,céphalante occidental): [G] average,[H] 1 to 3 m, [W] 3 to 4 m, [N]wetlands, swamps, [Su] shade to fullsun, [So] all types, except compacted,[R] superficial, [L] opposite, [Fl]white, forming curious little fragrantballs, [Fr] clusters of globular fruitsthat remain for part of winter, [A]functions well as a wind breaker,attracts butterflies and birds.

American Fly Honeysuckle (Lonicera canadensis, chèvrefeuilledu Canada): [G] rapid, [H] 1 to 1.8 m,[W] 1 to 1.5 m, [N] mountainouswoods, [Su] partial shade to sunny,[So] all types, average to highmoisture, [R] superficial, [L] thin,hairy on the edges , [Fl] very earlyspring, yellow cone-shaped flowers,[Fr] red berries in summer, [A] a niceshrub, berries are not poisonous forhumans, unlike the Tartarianhoneysuckle.

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[R] Roots[L] Leaves




[Or] Wild Rose (Rosa blanda, rosierinerme), thornless, for dryer groundor even poor or sandy soil. Hasfragrant pale pink flowers andproduces red berries that attractbirds (buntings, cardinals, siskins,grosbeaks, waxwings, robins,mockingbirds, finches) and remainthroughout winter.

Sweet Gale (Myrica gale, myrique baumier): [G] average, compact, [H] 0.6 to 1.2m, [W] 2 m, [N] edges of rivers andlakes, grows in colonies, [Su] partialshade to full sun, [So] loam, highmoisture, soaked and boggy soils, [R]superficial, suckering, [L] bluishgreen, wider and dentate near thetip, sweet scent when squeezed, [Fl]silky catkins in early spring, [Fr]yellow, waxy coating, [A] controlserosion, ice-resistant, nitrogen-fixingplant that enriches poor soil, veryfragrant, resistant to insects anddisease, attracts birds (buntings,robins, chickadees, orioles,woodpeckers, linnets).

[Or] in more acidic wet soils,Sourtop Blueberry (Cacciniummyrtilloides, bleuet fausse-myrtille),edible black fruits, but must beprotected from strong winds.

Stalked Willow (Salix petiolaris, saule à longpétiole): [G] rapid, compact shape,[N] wetlands, tolerates temporarydrought, [Su] full sun, [H] 2 to 4 m,[L] 1 to 2 m, [So] all soil types,average to high moisture, [R]superficial, [L] narrow lanceolateand mobile, [Fl] catkins appearbefore leaves, [A] branches darkpurple, brings a fresh, breezy feelingto water’s edge, thrives in theharshest conditions.

[Or] Erect Willow (Salix rigida, saulerigide), 3 to 5 m, or Shining Willow(Salix lucida, saule brillant), 4 to 8m, delicate green leaves and reddishtwigs, resistant to ice, and PussyWillow (Salix discolor, saulediscolore) 6 to 8 m, which producesbeautiful large catkins in the spring.

Small shrubs, dry soilCommon Juniper (Juniperus communis, génévriercommun): [G] slow, [H] 1.5 to 3 m,[W] 2.5 to 3.5 m, [N] rocks, near largebodies of water, [N] full sun, [So] drysoil, all types, even compact, [R]superficial, [L] prickly, [Fr] bluishblack, edible when ground, [A]provides good erosion control,attracts birds (buntings, grosbeaks,waxwings, robins, bluebirds,mockingbirds).

Large-leaved Meadow-sweet (Spirée latifolia, Spirée à largesfeuilles): [G] average, [H] 0.9 to 1.5 m,[W] 0.9 to 1.5 m, [N] uncultivated orwet areas, [Su] partial shade to fullsun, [So] all types, prefers loam,moist, poor and light, [R] superficial,[L] serrated, [Fl] spring, white or pinkpanicles, [Fr] tough and shiny fruit,[A] provides good stabilization ofbanks and slopes, well suited todifficult conditions, attracts linnetsin particular.

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[R] Roots[L] Leaves




[Or] Steeplebush (Spiraeatomentosa, spirée tomenteuse rose),with pink flowered spikes, suckersprovide good stabilization, but not inclay soils.

Cranberrybush (Viburnumtrilobum, viorne trilobé): [G] average,[H] 2.5 to 5 m, [W] 2.5 to 3.6 m, [N]wetlands, [Su] partial shade to fullsun, [So] loam, moist but welldrained and even poor soils, [R]superficial, [L] become flaming infall, [Fl] white flowers forming a ball,May to June, [Fr] in fall, clusters ofedible red fruits that make anexcellent jelly, [A] attracts manykinds of birds (buntings, cardinals,siskins, blue jays, thrushes,grosbeaks, waxwings, robins,chickadees, mockingbirds, warblersand even wild turkeys), importantsource of food in winter, does notattract white-tailed deer, can act as awind-breaker.

[Or] Moosewood (Viburnumalnifolium, viorne à feuilles d’aulne),smaller, with splendid spring white

flowers and red fruits that turn blue-black, very enticing to birds.

Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia, vignevierge): [G] rapid, climbing orcreeping, 4 to 15 m, [N] woods andthickets, [Su] shade to full sun, [So]all types, [R] superficial, stems withtendrils and aerial roots, [L]resembles a vine leaf with fivefingers, brilliant red foliage in fall,[Fl] panicles, in spring, [Fr] blueberry, in fall, [A] can quickly covershorewalls and rip-rap, attracts birds(mockingbirds, warblers,nuthatches), [P] climbs trees, berriesare potentially poisonous.

[Or] Wild Grape (Vitis riparia, vignedes rivages), which is edible (bluegrapes after the first frost andstuffed vine leaves) and attractsbirds (blackbirds, thrushes,waxwings, robins, mockingbirds,orioles, tanagers). It prefers sandysoil and tolerates flooding. But thisvine is more invasive for trees andcan live several dozens of years.

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[R] Roots[L] Leaves




Herbaceous plants for ground cover

Beware of exotic invasive species,such as purple loosestrife, commonwaterweed, Japanese knotweed (wildbamboo), and European cultivars ofreed canary grass. Once they takehold, these species are real pests.

To remove Japanese knotweed, forexample, you must cut it continuallyto weaken it, and then pull out theplant with its roots and rhizomes.Care must then be taken not todiscard the plant debris in the wild,because it will only propagate!

Set up a maintenance-freelawn instead of usingtraditional grass, which is amonoculture from theKentucky bluegrass plant.Monocultures are always very risky,because when diseases or insectsattack, all the plants are affected atthe same time. A diversifiedherbaceous culture is more resistantand can adapt more easily tovarious ground conditions.

Herbaceous plants act as a blanket to protect against soil erosion from surface runoff and waves.

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Japanese knotweed on a bank

Japanese knotweed (wild bamboo) quickly invades the bank and is very

hard to clear away.

Phot

o: O

BVBM

Phot

o: O

BVBM

Grasses scattered between shrubs

Herbaceous plants such as grasses improve biodiversity along the water.

To restore a healthybiodiversity to your lawn,herbaceous seeds can beadded.The ground should be raked toaerate the soil. Clover seed can beadded to grounds that have beenheavily disturbed or cut very closeto the ground for many years. Cloverwill prevent ragweed from spreadingwhile the other herbaceous plantstake hold. Check specialized seedmixes (moist soil, dry soil, sandy,clay, steep slope, flower meadow,etc.) and ask for native species.Choose a mix without addedfertilizer.

When vegetating the riparianstrip, take the opportunity toadd perennials of particularinterest: colourful, edible ormedicinal plants, or plants thatattract birds or butterflies.Tall native grasses also attract birds.Moreover, planting rare nativespecies helps ensure their survival inthe region: some examples are theCanada Lily (Lilium canadense, lisdu Canada), Wild Rice (Zizaniaaquatica, riz sauvage), and CanadaWild Ginger (Asarum canadense,gingembre sauvage). Horticulturalground covers can be too invasive,such as lily of the valley (alsopotentially poisonous), or goutweed.

Recommended herbaceousspecies> Wet or dry ground

> Wetter ground

> Dryer ground

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Wet or dry groundSwamp Milkweed e(Asclepias incarnata, asclépiadeincarnate): [H] 60 to 120 cm, [W] 40to 60 cm, [N] boggy areas andalluvial banks, [Su] full sun, [So] alltypes, [A] attracts butterflies such asthe monarch, has umbels of smalldark pink flowers, [P] not easy totransplant.

Lady Fern(Athyrium filix-femina, athyriefougère femelle): [G] average, [H] 40cm to 1.2 m, [W] 30 cm, [N] shorelineforests, woods that are flooded inspring, [Su] shade to partial shade,[So] moist, does not toleratedrought or wind, [L] large frondsarranged in a ring, [A] can be used asa ground cover under trees, easy tocultivate.

Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii, barbon deGérard): grass, [H] 1 to 2 m, [W] 45 cm,[N] sandy alluvials, [Su] partial shadeto full sun, [So] moist but welldrained, [L] foliage is bluish in

summer and copper in fall, [Fl]three-pronged green-purple flowers,[A] magnificent grass, wildlifepotential, attracts birds such as theAmerican tree sparrow, excellent forcontrolling erosion.

Spinulose Shield-Fern(Dryopteris spinulosa, dryoptéridespinuleuse): fern, [H] 40 to 50 cm,[W] 60 cm, [N] the most common ofour ferns, [Su] shade to full sun, [So]low to average moisture, [L] finelyserrated foliage that remains greenin winter, [A] adapts to allconditions, very easy to cultivate.

Canada Wildrye (Elymus canadensis, élyme duCanada): grass, [G] rapid, [H] 60 to150 cm, [W] 40 cm, [N] sandy orgravelly banks, [Su] full sun, [So] alltypes of soil, [Fl] nodding spike,resembles rye, [A] easy to cultivate,ideal for stabilization, attracts birds.

Spotted Joe-Pye Weed(Eupatorium maculatum, eupatoiremaculée): [H] 100 to 200 cm, [W] 90cm, [N] wet and poorly drainedareas, near bodies of water, clay

alluvials, [Su] partial shade to fullsun, [So] heavy and rich, preferslimestone soils, [Fl] purple, spreadout in large corymbs, with a lilacscent, [A] attracts butterflies.

[Or] Boneset (Eupatoriumperfoliatum, eupatoire perfoliée),with white flowers.

Small Forget-me-not (Myosotis laxa, myosotis laxiflore):[G] rapid [H] 15 to 50 cm, [W] 35 cm,[N] in areas around watercourses,flood plains, [Su] partial shade tofull sun, [So] all types, averagemoisture, [Fl] shoots of pretty blueor white flowers, [A] filters water, [P]be careful not to choose invasivecultivars.

Wetter groundCanada Reedgrass(Calamagrostis canadensis,calamagostride du Canada): grass,[H] 1.2 m, [W] 40 cm, [N] wetlandsand shorelines, [Su] partial shade tofull sun, [So] all types, toleratesflooding, [R] dense root system, [Fr]delicate tufts, golden in summer and

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[Su] Sun[So] Soil

[R] Roots[L] Leaves




reddish in fall, [A] highly resistant,attracts birds.

Gray’s Sedge (Carex grayii, Carex de Gray): [H] 30to 100 cm, [W] 60 cm, [N] wetmeadow, marsh, [Su] full sun, [So]all types, [Fr] produces the biggestfruit of all our native sedges, [A]highly decorative green fruits,recommended species forrenaturalization of wetlands, easy tocultivate.

Ostrich Fern (Mattheucciastrupthiopteris, fougère tol’autruche): [H] 60 cm to 2.3 m,[W] 1 m, [N] large lush fern arranged

in a ring, [Su] partial shade to shade,[So] average to high moisture,tolerates flooding, [A] the youngfronds are edible in the spring(fiddle heads), very long life.

Tall Glyceria (Glyceria grandis, glycérie géante):grass, [H] 1 to 1.6 m, [W] 25 cm, [N]marshes and shorelines, [Su] fullsun, [So] all types, [L] forms largecolonies, [A] ideal for re-

naturalization of wetlands, used bywildlife.

Harlequin Blueflag (Iris versicolor, iris versicolore): [G]rapid, [H] 60 to 90 cm, [W] 40 cm,[N] grows in vast colonies, competeswith cattails in very wet areas orwith grasses in dryer areas, [Su]partial shade to full sun, [So] alltypes, [Fl] colonies of blue-mauveflowers, [A] floral emblem ofQuebec, easy to cultivate.

Common Rush (Juncus effusus, jonc épars): [G]rapid, [H] 45 to 65 cm, [W] 60 cm, [N]the stems grow in dense clumps andpropagate by large rhizomes, [Su]full sun, [So] all types, [L] round andfull stem (grasses generally havehollow stems while bulrushes andsedges have triangular stems), [Fl]inflorescence in hanging tufts, [A]stem used for wickerwork,decorative in winter.

Dryer groundWild Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis, ancolie duCanada): [H] 30 to 60 cm, [W] 25 to45 cm, [N] rocky areas and steeprocky slopes, [Su] partial shade tofull sun, [So] sandy, [Fl] hanging[nodding] scarlet red flowers withspurs, [A] one of our most beautifulnative flowers, also known in Frenchas “gants de Notre-Dame”, easy tocultivate, attracts hummingbirds,perfect for rip-rap, [P] if soil is toorich, produces more leaves thanflowers.

Hay-scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula, dennstaedtia à lobules ponctués):[G] rapid, [H] 30 to 90 cm, [W] 50 cm,[N]

dense colonies at woodland edges,[Su] shade to full sun, [So] toleratesdry and sandy soils, [L] highlyserrated pale green foliage,becoming redder in fall [A] easy tocultivate, vigorous, [P] sometimesinvasive, distinct strong scent.

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[Su] Sun[So] Soil

[R] Roots[L] Leaves




Tufted Hairgrass(Deschampsia cespitosa,deschampsie cespiteuse): grass, [H]40 to 60 cm, [W] 60 cm, [N]shorelines and wet areas, [Su]partial shade to full sun, [So] alltypes, [L] fine, curved foliage thatturns yellow in fall, [Fl] delicate andnumerous straw-yellowinflorescence, creating a vaporouseffect, [A] highly aesthetic,decorative in winter, attracts birds.

Fireweed(Epilobium angustifolium, épilobe àfeuilles étroites): [G] average, [H] 120to 200 cm, [W] 40 cm, [N] edges ofwatercourses, clearings, uncultivatedareas, forms large populations,producing a spectacular effect, [Su]full sun, [So] highly tolerant of alltypes except acidic soils, [Fl] verylong clusters of large purple ormagenta flowers, in July, delicatescent, [A] attracts hummingbirdsand butterflies, anti-inflammatorymedicinal properties, preferable topurple loosestrife, which is notnative and which is invasive.

Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans, faux sorghopenché): grass, [H] 1.5 to 1.75 m, [W]40 cm, [N] open woodland andshorelines, [Su] full sun, [So] alltypes, [L] in tones of yellow ochre,bronze and burgundy, [A] the mostbeautiful of our grasses, to be growin clusters, attracts birds, decorativein winter, perfect for flowerbouquets.

Blackeyed Susan(Rudbeckia hirta, rudbeckiehérissée): [G] rapid, [H] 30 to 90 cm,[W] 45 cm, [N] meadows, roadsides,[Su] full sun, [So] poor and dry, [Fl]July to August, abundant andspectacular, [A] easy to cultivate,attracts butterflies.

[Or] Cutleaf Coneflower (Rudbeckialaciniata, rudbeckie laciniée), whichis taller, [H] 100 to 200 cm, [W] 75cm, in more moist areas, in partialshade to sun.

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[Su] Sun[So] Soil

[R] Roots[L] Leaves




By using native species, you will have greater success in planting and maintenance will be minimal. Horticultural plants should be used only aroundthe house. Over time, maintenance will be limited to pulling out harmful weedsand trimming the shrubs in order to maintain their health and create pleasingviews or landscape effects.

7Successful PlantingPlanting and maintenance61

When and whereto plantIdeally, planting should bedone in the spring to mid-June,or in the fall, starting at theend of August.Planting should be done when thetemperature is cool, that is, in themorning or at the end of the day.Choose plants according to the typeof soil and soil moisture. You canplant on the bank, on the top of theslope or behind a shorewall.Planting can also be done in existingrip-rap. It is preferable to plant in acluster or in staggered rows (like thenumber five on a die), with adistance of one metre betweenplants. Avoid planting in rowsparallel to the bank, as this cancreate preferred sections for surfacerunoff and lead to erosion.

Plan your planting well.> Prepare a planting plan indicating

the distances between plants andthe selected species

> Maintain a distance of 1 metrebetween shrubs and 4 to 5 metresbetween trees

> On your land, identify the plantsites so that you have a goodoverall view of the planting and ofthe distances to be maintained

> Do not remove large patches oflawn for planting; instead, leavethe lawn in place around theplants, so as not to create erosion

How to plantIt is preferable not to modifythe soil texture when planting,so that the plant can adapt tothe natural surroundingconditions. If you enhance the planting soil, theroots will have more difficultyspreading in the natural soil of thebank. Do not add any fertilizer onthe bank, nor bone meal. A bit ofcompost can be added (maximum25%, mixed with the earth). Treescan be supported with a stake, butthey should not be tied too tightlyand the stake should be removedthe following year.

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Illustration 8: Planting method for all soil types

There are three stages to planting.

1. Digging

> Dig the hole, about one third larger than the root ball

> Soak the hole before planting

2. Putting in the plant

> For trees, make sure the stem is fully vertical

> Shrubs should be planted quite deep so that the ball does not stickout above the hole

> Fill and pack the rest of the hole with earth

> Water, in order to eliminate air pockets

3. Creating a soil saucer

> Build up a shallow rim of soil to form a saucer around the plantinghole

> Cut away any damaged branches or foliage

> Water until the saucer is full, and then repeat several times until itstays full for a few minutes

> Water once a day (fill the saucer) for the first week or more


3

2

1

How to seedThe seeded area must becovered with burlap to keepthe seeds in place.The burlap is held in place usingwood strips. Ideally, sowing shouldbe done on the top of the slope. Thebank slope can also be seeded,taking precautions to prevent theseeds from being dragged towardthe water.

It is very important to monitorthe seeds.> As soon as seedlings start to

appear, remove the burlap, ideallyin the morning or on a rainy day

> Keep wet for several days, until theseedlings are a nice green

> Water during dry spells for a fullyear and even the following spring

Planting in rip-rapWhen planting in riprap, a fewstones must be removed inorder to introduce a pocketwith a wick for capturing water.(See illustration 9)

Caring for theplantsDo not fertilize the seedlings!The introduction of nutrients(nitrogen, phosphorus) into thebody of water contributes toits eutrophication.It is normal to lose a few plants thefollowing year (5% to 10%). Simplyreplace them. Deer may also loveyour plants, and birds may like yourseeds. To keep deer away, you canuse several tricks such as hangingfabric softener sheets on theseedlings or using deer repellents. Todiscourage birds, you must cover theseeds.

A few practical maintenancetips.> Water trees and shrubs to prevent

them from drying out, even thefollowing year.

> Weed the seedlings so that they donot become overrun. A plasticcollar can be placed on the groundaround the plant and fixed inplace, for the first few years.

> Prune damaged or dead branches.Always prune at the intersectionof two branches or of a bud.

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Illustration 9: Planting method for rip-rap (adapted from the RAPPEL guide)

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Using burlap to create the wick andpocket.

1. Place a stone in the centre of thepiece of burlap.

2. Turn the stone until half of theburlap forms a wick.

3. Slide the wick in between two orthree rocks until the stone in theburlap touches the water enough tomoisten the burlap.

4. Add enough earth to plant theshrub’s root ball, and then cover theroot ball with the rest of the burlap.


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4

You can use the following list to identify the actions that need to be carried outon your shoreline property and, if you wish, to assign a priority to certain ones.

8Drawing Up an Action PlanA list of actions for shoreline enhancement 67

Developing shoreline groundsj Move activity zones closer to the housej Maintain the soil by aerating and by limiting mowingj Stop dumping grass cuttings near the waterj Stop using fertilizers and pesticidesj Clear the area on top of the septic drain field and verify the septic systemj Locate and protect the potable water intakej Eliminate sources of surface runoff and underground water contamination (soaps, fertilizers, pesticides, oil and

grease, wood treated with creosote, etc.)

j Reduce runoff speed by setting up filtering mechanisms

Protecting the riparian stripj Locate the high water markj Determine the riparian strip according to the slope (10 or 15 metres deep)j Determine the riparian strip with respect to municipal bylaws for mowing and plantingj Limit the visual opening to 5 m widej Limit the leisure activity zone to a maximum of 5 m wide and deep in the riparian stripj Set up the access diagonally, within the 5 m visual openingj Use porous and filtering materials for the access zones and pathsj Divert water runoff from paths toward the bordering vegetat

Documents

Shoreline Management Guide€¦ · Organisme de bassin versant de la baie Missisquoi, 2012 Shoreline Management Guide 2012 Edition Protecting the quality of life of lakes and watercourses