Illus

trat

ion

by K

arl L

ager

feld

DAILY EDITION 30 AUGUST 2016 1

PARIS mdash Call it the Kardashian-ization of that classic the Little Black Dress While in Saint-Tropez this summer Karl Lagerfeld spied a fashion trend from his late-night visits to landmark cafeacute Seacuteneacutequier LBDs galore mdash with

the accent on little ldquoTheyrsquore like bathing suits nearlyrdquo said the designer who sketched the look on various body shapes exclusively for WWD ldquoYoursquore quite far from the days of Brigitte Bardot and her Vichy [gingham] dressesrdquo he said musing that ldquomaybe therersquos a Kim Kardashian influencerdquo Local retailers concur the style is a hit ldquoWe always sell a lot of sexy Little Black Dresses for summerrdquo said Maryse Poncin a buyer for 55 Croisette

a specialty boutique with units in Cannes Saint-Tropez and now Paris which opened last week

Short Stories

Fashion Beauty Business

Final SaleBidding for Aeacuteropostalesassets took place Mondaywith four firms said to be in the running PAGE 3

Trend-spottingBig data firm Editedrsquos study shows bare-shoulder looks bomber jackets sheer and slipdresses are hits PAGE 3

Going BigLongchamp unveils an expanded Paris flagship PAGE 5

FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR PFIRESTONEWWDCOM

Canadian

Real EstateWait lsquotil You See Whatrsquos There

ISSUE September 28 middot AD CLOSE September 14 middot MATERIALS September 19

An Advertising Opportunity

FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR PFIRESTONEWWDCOM

Canadian

Real EstateWait lsquotil You See Whatrsquos There

ISSUE September 28 middot AD CLOSE September 14 middot MATERIALS September 19

An Advertising Opportunity

30 AUGUST 2016 3

Sources said at least four companies submitted bids for the bankrupt retailer

BY VICKI M YOUNG

NEW YORK mdash The auction for the assets of Aeacuteropostale was still in progress at press time Monday and it is believed that three liquida-tors were likely bidding as well as Sycamore Partners

Professionals who keep close tabs on distressed firms said they expect the liquida-tors to be aggressively pursuing the right to liquidate Aeacuteropostales inventory and store leases It remained unclear who was bidding for what although in these types of auctions it is not unusual for the dynamics to shift mid-auction and for liquidators to suddenly combine forces to form a consortium to out-bid a competitor The names that surfaced as actively circling around the bankrupt retailer are Gordon Brothers Group and Hilco Mer-chant Resources Great American Group and Tiger Capital Executives at those three firms as well as Sycamore could not be reached for comment

While Sycamore also made an offer it is unclear exactly what it was bidding on although the private equity firm was expected to use its advantage by providing a credit bid or using its position as a secured creditor of $150 million as currency An affiliate of Syca-more was a pre-petition lender Sycamores path was cleared on Friday when Manhattan Bankruptcy Court Judge Sean Lane ruled

there was no reason not to allow a credit bidOne professional who tracks bankruptcies

said it would make sense for Sycamore mdash which has been pushing for a liquidation mdash to bid for Aeacuteropostales intellectual property assets The financial firm has experience in buying the IP assets of bankrupt firms Syca-more owns the Coldwater Creek name which it acquired after the bankrupt retailer decided it couldnt restructure the business Coldwater Creek has since resurfaced as an e-tailer It also sends out a catalogue to consumers Whether that makes sense for the Aeacuteropostale brand is unclear since the teen retailer in more recent years has been targeting a younger customer

more in the tweens space one who relies on mom and dad to foot the bill at the register

While Sycamore could bid on the company as a going concern that would make sense only if it thought it could over time restruc-ture operations and get back the $150 million it loaned to the retailer not to mention the $53 million it lost on its equity investment in Aeacuteropostale shares Sycamore paid $54 million to acquire those shares

Another possibility that surfaced was that Sycamore might be more interested in the retailers GoJanecom asset Aeacuteropostale acquired the womens fashion footwear and apparel e-tailer in November 2012 for an undisclosed amount

Aeacuteropostale which filed a voluntary peti-tion for Chapter 11 bankruptcy court protec-tion on May 4 in Manhattan said in mid-July that a reorganization on a stand-alone basis is not feasible The retailer and its team of financial advisers had been exploring strategic options since February and had tried to find a stalking horse Versa Capital earlier this month emerged as a possible lifeline to acquire certain assets and keep the business as a going concern That stalking horse agreement never materialized over concerns that Sycamore would be allowed to submit a credit bid

A liquidation of the retailer would leave more than 10000 jobs lost in the retail sector this year from closures and liquidations which have included store cuts at Macys Inc Wal-Mart Stores Inc and Sears Holdings as well as the liquidation of nameplates including Sports Authority

RETAIL

Aeacuteropostales Future Still Unclear

An analysis of online patterns by big data firm Edited shows the runway styles most likely to resonate with shoppers

BY EVAN CLARK

If the designers rushing to finish their spring lines ahead of New York Fashion Week fol-lowed the e-commerce trends instead of their muses the fashion runways would be over-flowing with bomber jackets sheer fabrics bare shoulders and slipdresses

Thatrsquos according to a study provided first to WWD by Katie Smith senior fashion and retail market analyst at fashion-focused big data firm Edited which digitally follows 450 million stockkeeping units from 90000 brands selling online

Edited is continually tracking when mer-chants add looks to their sites when they cut prices and when styles go out of stock getting a view of not just what brands are pushing online but how quickly trends work their way through the global fashion system

ldquoWe know whatrsquos selling well whatrsquos not working can detect an uptick in new products arriving and track how price and discounting impact trendsrdquo said Smith

She looked at e-commerce data from this spring and summer trends arriving now for fall and at how styles from previous runway seasons crossed over into retail

While guessing what designers will present is always a dicey game mdash the Edited analysis shows what direction designers could choose to get online traction for their looks mdash Smith did predict that certain calendar-driven changes will be seen on the runways

ldquoWith buy-now and close-to-season collections the talk of the season the biggest

shift wersquoll see is an increase in fall-appropri-ate pieces more leather suede lightweight puffer jackets rainwear knitwear boots and scarvesrdquo she said ldquoColor palette has increased potential to reflect the current season mdash from many designers wersquore expecting a more sultry palette than is normally associated for springrdquo

While the e-commerce market is trained on a number of broad themes mdash including skate-inspired looks athletic styles and a more

grown-up and high-end take on the hippie-in-fused trend mdash there are plenty of individual styles designers can key in on if they want their looks to live on in a sale as well as the imagination

Here a look at the Edited style gurursquos calls for catwalk winners

Bomber JacketsBomber jackets have followed the path of

the denim and biker jackets and become a wardrobe essential Just 22 percent of spring bomber jackets had price reductions online while 30 percent of the online biker and denim jacket offering had been cut

And retailers continue to invest in the trend with almost 20 percent of the bomber jackets for sale online in the US added in the past two weeks

SheersWhile tulle and sheer fabrics have been

on the runway in recent seasons they have yet to break through in retail ldquoWe expect spring 2017 to change this as sheers will offer an ultrafeminine antidote to gender-neutral dressing and the sports aestheticrdquo Smith said pointing to pre-collections from Erdem Moschino and Gucci Tulle skirts stood up well against discounting online this spring

Bared ShouldersNearly 9000 styles sporting bared

shoulders hit the US online market this spring and summer The Bardot style has outperformed the cold shoulder online this summer Roland Mouret Chanel and House of Holland all sported bared shoulder looks in pre-collections

Slip DressesGivenchy Gucci and Rag amp Bone all had

wins with slipdresses in spring when 47 percent of the new takes on the look coming online landed in the luxury market The trend appears to have taken a breather but Smith expects it will be back with Christopher Kane and Dior showing them in pre-collections

White ShirtsWhite shirts mdash from the classic button-down

to sleeveless styles to shirt dresses mdash are ldquodominatingrdquo online Smith said Fifty-three retailers have featured white shirt styles in their newsletters of the last month

BUSINESS

Picking the Fashion Runway Winners With Big Data

Elf Cosmetics Files for IPO Plans Expansion PVH ceo Emanuel Chirico expects big things from Raf Simonsrsquo take on Calvin Klein

Google Bomber Jackets Off-the-Shoulder and Rompers Trending

American Apparel Founderrsquos New Site Is Glimpse Into Next Act

Sister Act J Crew to Join Madewell at Nordstrom

PVH Sets Enhanced CR Strategy Commits to UN Sustainability Goals

TOP 5TRENDINGON WWDCOM

NEWSMAKERSTHIS WEEKS MOST TALKED-ABOUT NAMES IN OUR INDUSTRY

RALPH LAUREN

JOHN KERRY

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

PETER LINDBERGH

Bar

ed s

houl

ders

pho

togr

aph

by d

i Fel

izza

noR

EXS

hutt

erst

ock

Aeacuteropostales store closing sale at one of its sites

Bared shoulders Nearly 9000 styles

sporting bared shoulders hit the

US online market this spring and

summer with the Bardot style

outperforming the cold shoulder

online

4 30 AUGUST 2016

Raffaele Ilardo will oversee creative development and design for the CH New York ready-to-wear and bridal collections

BY ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

NEW YORK mdash With her spring runway show less than two weeks away Carolina Herrera had another kind of presentation to tend to Monday mdash Raffaele Ilardo has joined her company as vice president of design

Ilardo was at work in the designerrsquos studio Monday overseeing creative development and design for the Carolina Herrera New York ready-to-wear and bridal collections He joins the company from Mai-son Margiela where he served as creative adviser and atelier director under John Galliano Ilardorsquos reacutesumeacute includes posts at Chanel Oscar de la Renta and a decade at Christian Dior as atelier director

His appointment coincides with the 35th anniversary of the company which all began with the designerrsquos first runway show at New Yorkrsquos Metropolitan Club Her modus operandi remains the same to cre-ate beautifully made elegant clothes for a global woman of today in a New York-based atelier by a couture-trained team with a strong sensibility for wearable fashionrdquo according to a statement released by the company Monday

Herrera said Ilardo is joining me at this moment as we journey into the next stage of our companyrsquos evolution He has a deep

understanding of how to create perfectly made clothes mdash beautiful inside and out I knew this the moment we met Raffa-elersquos pedigree speaks for itself that said he knows that women have to wear their clothes not just look at them

Ilardo is taking on some of the responsi-bilities previously handled by Herveacute Pierre who exited the company as creative direc-tor in February after more than 14 years

His appointment comes after a busy few months for Herrera The designers ongoing collaborator Mario Testino shot Karlie Kloss and Lily Aldridge for the Carolina Herrera New York and CH Carolina Herrera digital and print ad campaign Last month the company introduced Good Girl the brands biggest fragrance launch in 14 years and the first new pillar to be introduced since 2007 The scents tag line ldquoItrsquos So Good to Be Badrdquo draws from interviews Herrera has done with women The designer also received two retrospective exhibitions at the Savannah College of Art and Design in Savannah and Atlanta

Ilardo is well-skilled in the art of discre-tion having helped design wedding gowns for Amal Clooney and Huma Abedin during his head tailor days at Oscar de la Renta Herrera has created her share of wedding gowns for well-known brides Last fall the designer dressed Hilary Rhoda for her wed-ding and she also did the honors for Olivia Palermo and Jessica Simpson

Monse founders Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim had been consulting in the design studio at Herrera over the last few months and Ilardos appointment stirs further speculation that the duo may be

rejoining their former employer Oscar de la Renta following the departure of Peter Copping as creative director last month They are believed to be no longer consult-ing for Herrera

A spokesman for Garcia and Kim did not respond to a request for comment There was no news Monday regarding Coppingrsquos successor according to an Oscar de la Renta spokeswoman

FASHION

Carolina Herrera Names VP of Design

Dov Charneys web site called Thatrsquos Los Angeles along with other tracks on social media shed some light on his next moves

BY KARI HAMANAKA

LOS ANGELES mdash The LA T-shirt guy is indeed plotting a comeback

If anyone suspected Dov Charneyrsquos new apparel endeavor was all talk therersquos a pretty good record and indication of what hersquos been slowly building in South Central for perhaps as much as a year His love for Los Angeles appears written all over it

The American Apparel founder qui-etly put up a site more than a month ago called Thatrsquos Los Angeles by Dov Charney He tipped WWD off to the endeavor yet declined to discuss it The site appears to still be in its nascent stage with the only content posted being a slideshow of images many of them shot by Charney of vari-ous streetscapes wall murals residential

neighborhoods freeway overpasses and local businesses scattered throughout down-town Los Angeles South Central and other places Aside from that therersquos a contact box for inquiries but no address

Itrsquos no secret Charney has been working on a new apparel line with the companyrsquos headquarters in South Central but hersquos oth-erwise been generally mum on the specifics Chad Hagan of Hagan Capital Group who went in with Charney on a bid for American Apparel in January told WWD earlier this year the new line would be a basics brand for men and women made in the US with a focus on building out the wholesale busi-ness at least initially Information beyond that has been hard to come by

Charney said earlier this month while in Las Vegas for the trade shows taking place there that he was doing ldquosubterranean workrdquo for his new business although he confirmed he was not showing his new line there

Another ldquosubterraneanrdquo effort is an Instagram account that appears to belong to Charney which includes snaps mdash many of which also live on the site mdash of him cutting denim cutting T-shirts and inside a South Central dye house

Even more telling is another post with a caption that sheds some light on the new venturersquos supply chain including Geor-gia-grown cotton (Georgia being where Hagan Capital has offices) and yarn spun in South Carolina

It all appears marketing build-up as Char-ney plots his second act

THE MARKETS

American Apparel Founderrsquos New Site Is Glimpse Into Next Act

Her

rera

pho

togr

aph

by G

eorg

e C

hins

ee C

harn

ey b

y D

erek

Woo

d

Carolina Herrera on the runway of her fall rtw 2016 show

Dov Charney at his Silver Lake Calif home

30 AUGUST 2016 5

The Paris flagship grew to three floors and will spill over to a menrsquos unit across the street

BY MILES SOCHA

PARIS mdash Longchamp has unveiled its largest store in the world in its hometown mdash a big-ger sleeker and more luxurious version of its historic Rue Saint Honoreacute flagship

Itrsquos also a two-part story The 7500 square feet of selling space includes the French brandrsquos first freestanding menrsquos boutique slated to open at the end of September in a space directly across the street that had housed the brands temporary boutique during construction

ldquoParis is our strongholdrdquo said chief exec-utive officer Jean Cassegrain as he led a tour of the main three-level womenrsquos unit which devotes a full floor to its perennial Pliage style and another for ready-to-wear and shoes two nascent categories

Its vast collection of handbags luggage small leather goods and accessories mdash rang-ing from gloves and scarves to bracelets mdash unfurl across the rambling first floor

Doubling the size of the unit was a four-year process as the company annexed a neighboring building spiffed up the exterior of the listed 18th-century corner build-ing relocated a wholesale showroom and secured the temporary location

The rtw and footwear floor mdash with its thick carpets beige furniture robust orchids and sumptuous fitting rooms mdash is perhaps the most dramatic feature

ldquoWe didnrsquot have the space to showcase

clothes and shoes properly This is going to help support these two categoriesrdquo Casseg-rain said

At present rtw and footwear are carried in about 50 to 60 doors worldwide a frac-tion of the 2000 for leather goods

ldquoItrsquos still a small footprintrdquo Cassegrain acknowledged ldquoI think itrsquos a sign of confi-dence and we see potential Shoes are even closer to our DNA Footwear is a dynamic market and I think we have an opportunityrdquo

The Pliage floor which was humming with shoppers on Monday showcases the

original nylon model plus versions in leather seasonal rodeo-tinged suede numbers and limited edition weekenders with loud prints by Jeremy Scott a longtime collab-orator Customers can also have their bags personalized

Longchamprsquos internal architecture team led by Alexandra von Kerssenbrock oversaw the overhaul yielding an airy boutique bathed in flattering light and clad in warm textures burled maple rosewood and ebony for walls and shelving and creamy brecciated marble from Sardinia carved in marquetry and parquet patterns for floors Gleaming metal railings woven metal curtains and onyx columns add flashes of modernity

ldquoWe need to offer a nice compelling shopping environmentrdquo Cassegrain said ldquoIn a way itrsquos part of what you are buyingrdquo

Eric Carlson and his firm Carbondale conceived the rtw and shoe floor which shoppers reach via a striking mirrored stair-way with one wall clad in a leather bas relief

by sculptor Helen Amy MurrayYet to arrive in a bespoke wall niche in

the central atrium is a kinetic sculpture by Venezuelan artist Carlos Cruz-Diez a pioneer in integrating artworks into architecture

Cassegrain declined to provide sales pro-jections for the unit given the uncertainties in Paris which has suffered a steep decline in tourist numbers in the wake of a series of terror attacks But he noted that the Rue Saint Honoreacute which Longchamp has called home since 1988 attracts more locals than its flagship on the Avenue des Champs-Eacutelyseacutees Longchamp also operates a freestanding store on Rue du Vieux Colombier on the Left Bank slated for renovation next year

While the store opened quietly on Aug 9 Longchamp has set Oct 4 for the offi-cial unveiling The company is planning a cocktail and dinner event on Oct 4 during Paris Fashion Week where it will also unveil its Paris Premier bag an upscale model in deluxe French calfskin exalting its French savoir faire

FASHION

Longchamp Unveils Expanded Store

JLL Retail a real-estate consulting and investment management firm sees retail becoming increasingly polarized

BY SHARON EDELSON Tommy Hilfiger tops the list of brands with stores in the most international markets followed by Levis Nike and Hugo Boss according to a new report by JLL Retail

The study Destination Retail analyzed the top 240 international brands presence in 140 key cities which combined account for 36 percent of the worlds GDP and more than $15 trillion of sales

Hilfiger led the list with stores in 94 percent of the top 140 markets Levis has 2800 stores in 92 percent of the key global cities as identified and ranked by JLL Nike and Hugo Boss each operate units in 91 percent of the key global cities followed by Zara with 89 percent Swatch Louis Vuitton The Body Shop HampM and Adidas round out the top 10

JLL ranked brands not by total store

count but rather by highest retail penetra-tion globally The way we rank retailers is by the number of stores they have in the top 140 markets said Naveen Jaggi JLL president of retail brokerage adding that the retailers at the top of the list are open-ing stores in all of the top global gateway cities

The top 10 retail destinations as identi-fied by JLL are London Hong Kong Paris Dubai New York Shanghai Singapore Beijing Kuwait City and Tokyo The city with the most international nameplates is Tokyo with 44 percent Hong Kong 40 percent Shanghai 39 percent Beijing and New York 38 percent each London and Paris 37 percent each Kuwait City 36 percent and Dubai 35 percent

While these cities have luxury retail thoroughfares Jaggi said those districts are starting to diminish Were not seeing so many luxury brands growing in numbers and square footage he said noting that consumers have become more polarized and are shopping at retailers with either very high price points or value propositions

Manhattans Fifth Avenue commanded the highest prices per square foot

followed by Hong Kongrsquos Canton Road and Avenue Montaigne in Paris

The luxury market is maturing sta-bilizing and consolidating with global sales expected to exceed $139 trillion in 2015 according to Bain amp Co By region the Americas led the rest of the world followed by Europe driven by Chinese and US tourists taking advantage of the weak euro Luxury sales rose in Japan in 2015 but contracted in China Sales in South Korea increased but declined in Hong Kong and Macau due to government crack-downs on corruption

Retail as a segment is highly diversified and vibrant but the massive success of brands such as Primark tend to be in the value segment more than ever before Jaggi said

A recent slowdown in emerging markets has reined in some retailersrsquo expansion plans Jaggi said Emerging markets are still being targeted but the markets that are considered attractive are different from in the past For years emerging countries were considered Brazil Russia India and China Jaggi said Wersquove seen since then that Brazil has taken a significant hit and China has matured quite rapidly China has

gone from a growth and emerging nation to a mature market in just 10 years

Now the top five growth markets according to the report are Dubai Kuwait Abu Dhabi Jeddah and Riyadh Therersquos a massive amount of wealth Jaggi said In each case shopping center develop-ers have been funded by the royal seat Their view is a long-term hold view In the Middle East they dont expect to hold a mall for five to 10 years and then sell it to a REIT

Theres a pipeline of retailers still going to Moscow Therersquos a very strong upper class that spends money significantly Will they be there in five years Jaggi said The pipeline for retailers is two to three years out Can they sustain that five years from now

One way to mitigate risks associated with emerging markets is using franchise stores to expand globally Jaggi said Weve witnessed a number of retailers using franchisees to expand globally including Debenhams in countries such as Bulgaria Russia Turkey the Philippines Indonesia and Malaysia HampM in Indonesia and Gap in various Middle East and Asian markets

RETAIL

Hilfiger Tops International Retailer List

Phot

ogra

ph b

y D

omin

ique

Maicirc

tre

The Longchamp store on Rue Saint Honoreacute in Paris

6 30 AUGUST 2016

As the company commits to UN sustainability goals the CR program zeroes in on three key focus areas empowering people preserving the environment and supporting communities

BY ARTHUR FRIEDMAN

PVH Corp is implementing an enhanced global corporate responsibility strategy to address social and environmental issues as well as con-tinued commitments to improved workforce and manufacturing standards and conditions the company said Monday in its annual Corporate Responsibility report

We believe corporate responsibility helps strengthen our organization by managing risk maximizing efficiencies and driving value in a rapidly changing worldrdquo Emanuel Chirico chairman and chief executive officer said ldquoI believe that through our collective efforts we can continue to create value for both society and our businessrdquo

Melanie Steiner PVHrsquos chief risk officer noted in the report that ldquothe global apparel industry faces many complex challenges

ldquoThe world is gearing up for a clean energy transition guided by the first universal agree-ment on climate changerdquo she said ldquoPolitical instability and sectarian violence in sourcing countries continue to pose risks to supply con-tinuity while free-trade agreements are altering the sourcing footprint Globally businesses are taking action to align their corporate responsi-bility efforts with the United Nationsrsquo new Sus-tainable Development Goals while stakeholders mdash from investors to consumers mdash are pushing for more transparencyrdquo

The UNrsquos Sustainable Development Goals were agreed upon by 193 countries in 2015 and are aimed at helping guide global efforts to achieve sustainable development over the next 15 years

ldquoWe have developed our new CR strategy to support the SDGs as we renew our efforts to achieve positive impacts across our value chainrdquo Steiner said

PVHrsquos CR program is structured with 10 com-mitments across three key focus areas empow-ering people preserving the environment and supporting communities

The strategies support 14 of the UNrsquos 17 Sus-tainable Development Goals including building safety chemical management greenhouse gases inclusion diversity and supporting the needs of women and children The report also places an emphasis on the need to move beyond compliance to achieve sustainable protection of the rights dignity and livelihoods of the nearly one million workers in the companyrsquos supply chain

PVH said the 2015 initiatives detailed in the report highlight how the company is working with various stakeholders to drive positive impacts around the world These include the Global Supply Chain teamrsquos efforts to help create a ldquobest-in-classrdquo apparel manufacturing industry in Ethiopia Tommy Hilfiger partnering with the World Wide Fund for Nature to help safeguard water resources in the Taihu and Mekong river basins Speedo partnering with Italian yarn maker Aquafil and Chinese supplier Parawin to transform nylon factory remnants into new swimsuits and PVHrsquos role as the ldquoleadrdquo brand owner for the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh in all factories where the company has production

In Ethiopia PVH convened a private-public

collaboration with suppliers the Ethiopian government and donor groups to establish an industrial park in Hawassa a small city in southern Ethiopia The aim is that the Hawassa Industrial Park will be a development opportu-nity for sub-Saharan Africa and for the apparel industry

Ethiopia is Africarsquos second most populous country with an average gross domestic product growth rate of 11 percent for the past 11 years and a stable government with a 2025 plan to become Africarsquos leader in light manufacturing PVH noted Ethiopia is investing in its infrastructure including by expanding clean energy generation and worker development For the apparel indus-try there is an opportunity to grow cotton and implement other stages of production within Ethiopia the report said

ldquoAt every step we are sensitive to the challenges and conscious of the responsibilities inherent in industrializing a predominantly agri-cultural regionrdquo PVH said in the report

At the factory level PVH said itrsquos working with suppliers to help them build systems to more effectively manage human rights and environmental risks within their factories In 2015 the company worked closely with suppliers to resolve pressing issues conducting more than 2150 assessments and visiting about 1400 factories outside of the usual assessment process to share practical strategies to improve

working conditions and employment practices In addition it delivered more than 160 sessions to 7525 internal and external partners to pro-mote change covering topics such as fire safety human rights implementation worker-manage-ment relations chemical management assess-ment practices and data management

In addition to these external partnerships PVH said it continues to drive internal efforts on CR including calculating greenhouse gas emissions at all of its facilities and inclusion and diversity initiatives

PVH said it will participate in the Social and Labor Convergence Pilot an initiative facilitated by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition that seeks to unite brand owners manufacturers civil soci-ety and other stakeholders to create a unified approach to social and labor assessments

Tommy Hilfiger is making progress on its Sustainable Evolution strategy This includes pro-curing more than 95 million pounds of Better Cotton accounting for 11 percent of Hilfigerrsquos global cotton volume more than eight times the amount sourced in 2014 and increasing the use of more sustainable materials such as organic cotton and Tencel by more than 70 percent com-pared to 2014 for a total of 29 million garments in select collections

Hilfiger has also committed to procuring leather from certified sources with about 13 percent of tanneries accredited by the Leather Working Group a multistakeholder organiza-tion that establishes and promotes sustainable business practices within the leather industry Hilfiger has also incorporated down certified by the Responsible Down Standard in the majority of PVH Europe styles for fall

Last year also saw the global launch of PVH University online to expand learning and devel-opment opportunities for the 9000 office-based associates

PVHrsquos 2015 Corporate Responsibility Report was developed in accordance with the Global Reporting Initiative G4 Guidelines an inter-national framework widely used by organiza-tions to report on their CR and sustainability performance

PVH has more than 30000 associates oper-ating in more than 40 countries with more than $8 billion in revenues The company owns the Calvin Klein Tommy Hilfiger Van Heusen Izod Arrow Speedo Warnerrsquos and Olga brands

BUSINESS

PVH Sets Enhanced CR Strategy

Brands and retailers have worked with human and labor rights groups to improve safety in the countrys garment industry

BY KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON mdash Secretary of State John Kerry in Dhaka on Monday said more needs to be done to strengthen labor rights and empower workers in Bangladeshrsquos garment industry

Kerry who met with Bangladesh Prime Min-ister Sheikh Hasina and other top government officials on a one-day stop in Dhaka en route to India also addressed security concerns stem-ming from two terrorist attacks in Bangladesh last month

ldquoOur bilateral commercial ties have expanded so that America is now Bangladeshrsquos largest trad-ing partner largest export market and a primary

source of foreign direct investmentrdquo Kerry said according to State Department transcripts from a press conference in Dhaka ldquoThe $28 billion garment industry has played a uniquely import-ant role in this rise contributing to the annual sustained growth of your country at 6 percent

ldquoBut growth in its own mdash growth just for its own sake mdash is not our only goalrdquo he added ldquoYou can be growing with the wrong values you can be growing with the wrong outcomes you can be growing with people not gaining in their rights or in their income or in their ability to get an educationrdquo

He praised the government and private sector for taking strides to improve worker safety and training in garment factories in the wake of two major tragedies in the sector more than three years ago that claimed the lives of more than 1245 workers and injured hundreds of others

ldquoThe Rana Plaza collapse and the Tazreen fac-tory fire before it are just two of the more recent tragedies that underscore a fundamental truth

mdash Bangladesh cannot truly meet the aspirations of its people and share prosperity if its workers are not safe and their rights are not ensured That is criticalrdquo Kerry said

Those tragedies spurred the launch of the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety made up of 28 mainly US firms including Wal-Mart Stores Inc Target Corp Gap Inc and VF Corp and the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh comprised of 200 mostly European companies with two global unions IndustriALL and UNI Global Union

Both groups have reported progress midway through a five-year initiative in Bangladeshrsquo garment industry involving independent inspections on the structural electrical and fire safety of all factories from which their members source But remediation problems in some facto-ries remain often forcing the groups to suspend operations with factories that fail to live up to corrective action plans

International human and labor rights groups have long complained that there is a lack of worker representation and collective bargaining power in Bangladeshrsquos industries

ldquoEnhancing worker safety has to be paired with strengthening workersrsquo rights Kerry said The fact is garment factories across Bangladesh actually could benefit enormously from empow-ering laborers allowing them to form labor

unions affording them full collective bargaining rights because no one should ever be compelled to work in hazardous or exploitative conditionsrdquo

The US suspended Bangladeshrsquos duty-free benefits under the Generalized System of Pref-erences in June 2013 citing pervasive garment factory safety problems including the collapse of the Rana Plaza and the Tazreen Fashions fire and lack of progress allowing Bangladeshi workers to exercise their rights to organize and bargain collectively in the apparel sector

Following the suspension of GSP benefits the US and Bangladesh signed the Bangladesh Action Plan in 2013 under which President Obama could consider reinstatement of the GSP benefits But the suspension has been kept in place because Bangladesh has failed to meet several criteria

BUSINESS

John Kerry Strengthen Rights in Bangladesh

Kerr

y ph

otog

raph

by

Clif

f Ow

enA

PR

EXS

hutt

erst

ock

Tommy Hilfiger is making progress on its Sustainable Evolution strategy

John Kerry

30 AUGUST 2016 7

The mall will have a large number of first US stores for international retailers

BY SHARON EDELSON

With the November opening in Miami of Brickell City Centrersquos 500000-square-foot retail component fast approaching developer Swire Properties revealed the remaining tenants on its roster The tenant mix has an international flavor with Milanese womenrsquos shoe designer Michele Lopriore Latin Amer-ican fashion retailer BDBA Monaco jeweler APM 120 Lino a menrsquos womenrsquos and childrenrsquos ready-to-wear label and Capri-touch handmade Italian sandals clothing and accessories

A strong menrsquos component has emerged with Bogoli Kiton Baldini Harmont amp Blaine Richard Mille Stitched Westime Mirto Suit Supply Ted Baker Vilebrequin and Acqua di Parma which will operate a barber shop within its store Two other bar-ber shops are expected

ldquoSaks Fifth Avenue will have a special menrsquos stylistrdquo said Debora Overholt vice president of retail at Swire of the 107000-square-foot department store that will anchor the mall

Swire partnered with Whitman Family Development the owner of Bal Harbour Shops and Simon Property Group to pop-ulate the retail portion of Brickell a $105 billion 54 million-square-foot mixed-use project in the center of Miami thatrsquos actually a city-within-a-city connected by pedestrian bridges

The project will be promoted by new publication Centre a glossy produced by Surface magazine publisher Surface Media The first issue of the semi-annual Centre will be devoted to stories about outer space and

feature Andrew Zuckermans project using unpublished NASA photos The images in the series were created using a master positive of the original roll of film taken by the Apollo 11 astronauts en route to the moon the nega-tives from that mission included some of the most iconic images of earth

Centre will distributed throughout the project which includes two residential tow-ers Reach and Rise two class-A office towers and the East hotel

Copies will also be distributed at Swirersquos luxury properties worldwide including the House Collective Hotels in Hong Kong Beijing and Chengdu and East hotels in Hong Kong and Beijing Local Miami newsstands will carry Centre and it will be mailed directly to affluent zip codes throughout Miami

Brickells upscale tenants include Valentino Chopard and Intermix which cross over with Bal Harbour Shops but the new retail property will feature about 30 international brands that are new to or not very well-known in the US Sao Paolo-based shoe and handbag retailer Carmen Steffens which operates 550 stores in 18 countries will unveil its fifth unit in the US at Brickell following openings at the Mall of San Juan in San Juan Puerto Rico The Mall at Millenia in Orlando Fashion Show Mall in Las Vegas and Glendale Galleria in Glendale Calif

Leetal Kalmanson which last year opened a flagship in Tel Aviv will unveil a unit at Brickell for her jewelry which ranges from delicate filigree earrings to heavy necklaces encrusted with dark crystals French mens and womens rtw retailer Iro chose Bric-kell for its sixth US store Brickell is also celebrating homegrown South Florida brands such as Koko amp Palenki which operates units at the Shops at Merrick Park Dadeland and Aventura Mall

RETAIL

Brickells International Edge of Tenants

The fitness-tracker creator reveals a number of new designs and software updates

BY MAGHAN MCDOWELL

Itrsquos a big day at Fitbit Yesterday the wearables com-pany lifts the curtain on a number of new updates and products that are a key indicator that connected acces-sories are being treated more as personal accessories than one-size-suits-all gadgets

Among the new items from the fitness-tracking expert is the Fitbit Charge 2 which is a wristband that merges the functionality of a fitness tracker with the notifications and larger screen of a smartwatch The device can be worn with a handful of leather or metal bands that are sold separately

Additionally Fitbit releases the Fitbit Flex 2 which is a swim-proof fitness wristband that is smaller than the original Whatrsquos especially interesting is that the removable tracker inside the wristband can be worn with alternative accessories aside from the classic bands in the form of metallic bracelets or necklaces This signifies a dramatic shift in the versatility of Fitbitrsquos offerings although other companies have manufactured accessories and jewelrylike cases for the Fitbit tracker the brand today takes that approach in-house

ldquoOver the past nine years it has been our ability to innovate on both design and utility and our deep understanding of what consumers want that has made us the leading global wearables companyrdquo said Fitbit cofounder and chief executive officer James Park

The tracker in the Flex 2 can be inserted into a lari-at-style necklace or bangles in materials such as stainless steel or 22-karat plated gold Fitbit today also shares new collections for its Fitbit Alta a fitness wristband and Fitbit Blaze a smart fitness watch

These new hardware options come with enhanced functionality and features in the fitness tracking and alert department in addition to a new in-app feature called Fitbit Adventures

But Fitbit hasnrsquot kept all the makeover fun in-house Today it also reveals the expansion of a few designer col-laborations Public School Simply Vera Vera Wang and Tory Burch all have created new fitness tracking acces-sories with Fitbit Each is designed with an aesthetic that reflects the brand in materials such as metal and leather Simply Vera Vera Wang for Kohlrsquos for example features a double-wrap leather or chain-link bracelet The Tory Burch pieces will be available in 2017

The Charge 2 and Flex 2 are available for pre-sale in the US today on Fitbitcom and on Tuesday at online retailers such as Amazon Best Buy Nordstrom Target and more This will extend globally through October The Fitbit Charge 2 is $14999 and the Fitbit Flex 2 is $9995 These prices do not reflect additional bands or premium or special-edition items

Creating Fitbit products that consumers love and find indispensable is as much about advancing the innovative features and performance of the product as it is about designing how well it fits into wardrobes lifestyles and moodsrdquo said Tim Rosa who is vice president of global marketing at Fitbit Rosa said that with the software updates and the new designs ldquowe are continuing to build on the popularity of our products with more style choices and features that provide more usefulness than ever before so that consumers can wear them day and nightrdquo

ACCESSORIES

Fitbit Expands Options With New Designs

In addition to opening company-owned stores the brand is relaunching its web site

BY SHARON EDELSON

Nic + Zoe is sticking to its knitting while embarking on a major retail expansion with the goal of operating a 30- to 50-store chain The company is also introducing a new higher-priced collection a dress collection and relaunching its web site

With its headquarters in Boston Nic + Zoe might have once been under the radar but high-profile advertising campaigns starring Coco Rocha Hilary Rhoda and now Karen Elson raised its profile and stoked demand Retailers such as Bloomingdales Lord amp Taylor and Neiman Marcus Direct among others currently sell the brand Nic + Zoe launched an e-commerce site three and a half years ago

Were at the point where the brand is exploding and healthy and growing said Susie Mulder chief executive officer Weve been experiencing double-digit growth We want to hit $100 million in sales and thats in our sights

The company put a toe in the retail water last year with a pop-up shop at Copley Place in the citys Back Bay neighborhood which was followed by a flagship at the Mall at Chestnut Hill 10 miles from Nic + Zoes offices and designed by Kramer Design Group Nic + Zoe in the fall plans to open units at the Roosevelt Field Mall in Garden City NY and King of Prussia Mall in Pennsylvania

Were looking at a retail rollout of a 30- to 50-store chain said Susie Mulder ceo Well do both malls and high streets Were excited to go to the South West Coast and Midwest We know we have national appeal

Mulder added that New York City is Nic + Zoes number-one market in terms of online

salesThe brand has a European sensibility that

Mulder plans to take overseas We recently had interest from department stores and the UK International expansion will be an important part of the strategy in 2017 and 2018

Dorian Lightbown who founded the brand in 2006 and named it after her two children Nicholas and Zoe previously worked at Sigrid Olsen and it shows For example a Bold Strokes top with a woven body and knit sleeves has an artisanal brush stroke print inspired by the painter Milton Avery An Artisan Block top comes in a stretch crepe fabric with an artistic block print pattern

Dorians vision is a little bit left of center Mulder said Not being in New York weve been attracting people from the Rhode Island School of Design or Manhattan dropouts who want a change in lifestyle Theyll definitely get it at Nic + Zoe We have things like pajama day Mulder said Dorian has a farm in South Dart-mouth she brings in eggplant and fresh eggs

Lightbown who also worked with Leslie

Wexner at the Limited decided that working women lacked stylish packable clothing that wouldnt wrinkle on business trips and was machine-washable The company is majori-ty-owned by Boston entrepreneur Kent Spell-man Two private equity firms have minority positions Mulder spent 15 years at McKinsey amp Co helping people think through how to grow brands she said

Both Lightbown and Mulder are hands-on to the extent that they still receive an e-mail notifying them every time an order is placed

Nic + Zoe has other knitting needles in the fire The web site will be redesigned and relaunched and additional product catego-ries are in the offing Dorian designed a new special edition collection for spring thats priced about 30 percent above the core Nic + Zoe brand and features leather details Mulder said Were looking to launch a dress collection Weve been approached to design handbags and shoes Were looking at those things With our stores we want to dress her from head to toe

Mulder said shes not ruling out an initial public offering As we develop an aggressive growth plan whats next to fund the business growth Something will happen in the next few years she said People ask why were not in Macys Private equity wants growth but we want to find a promotional cadence and adja-cencies that are right for the brand Weve been selective in our wholesale partnerships Dont get me wrong its a dog fight out there Our [retail] customers are under pressure

In an everything-comes-full-circle moment Mulder said that Zoe the little girl whose name is still on the label got married last year on Lightbowns farm Still an inspiration for Light-bown the special-edition collection features pieces such as the long skirt Lightbown wore to Zoes wedding which her daughter might wear to work with a white T-shirt

RETAIL

Nic + Zoe Rolls Out Stores Products

Earth 1a

An art-inspired top from Nic + Zoe

Fitbit Flex 2 introduces new designs

The natural beauty company partnered with Anderson to help promote the brand and potentially collaborate on products

BY ALLISON COLLINS Personal trainer to the stars Tracy Ander-son is adding beauty to her reacutesumeacute

Anderson who takes credit for toning Gwyneth Paltrow and other celebrities is set to be the face of organic natural beauty company Ecco Bella

The brand launched by Sally Malanga in 1992 is a pioneer of the natural beauty movement and is known for its VitaminCe-lls skin-care line Water-Free Vanilla Herbal Body Lotion and flower wax-based cosmetics products

Anderson is partnering with Ecco Bella to promote the companyrsquos Discover Intelligent Beauty movement which she and Malanga developed to educate women about beauty and wholesome living alternatives focusing on boosting self-esteem and maintaining healthy fulfilling lifestyles ldquoWe want Tracy to help us let consumers know that it is possible to be beautiful and compassionate and sus-tainable all at oncerdquo Malanga said ldquoHaving

Tracy as a really [original] and authentic spokeswoman will let consumers know to look for us and to look at what wersquore sayingrdquo

ldquoWhen I was introduced to Sallyhellip[I was] shocked at who she was how she presented herself mdash that shersquod been doing this for 23 years and that it is this incredible undiscov-ered beauty secret that I believe to be the root of beauty periodrdquo Anderson said ldquoSo I wanted to immediately learn more about

her and about how we could potentially work together It started from a very meaningful and powerful place because we felt aligned in our philosophiesrdquo

ldquoShe is really healthy and gorgeous through her own fitness training methods and she helps other people do that toordquo Malanga said ldquoI liked what she was doing We approached her and she immediately identified with our mission which is kind of [special] because our mission for beauty is more of a 360-degree personal outlookrdquo

Anderson who will promote the brand on social media as well as through in-person appearances said she is hoping to create a lot of strong messages around ldquobeing good to yourselfrdquo and ldquoletting your own individual beauty shinerdquo at the same time as promoting sustainability and Earth- and animal-friendly products

ldquoSally and I have plans to do some adven-tures together that include animals maybe me naked with some animals but really that message thathellipitrsquos kind of like owning your beauty in a really powerful wayrdquo Anderson said ldquoSally is literally a little hero for what it really means to be natural with plant-based ingredients that [are] really powerful But [they are] not only powerful for what they can do for your skin but powerful in terms of their ethical alignment with the planet

as wellrdquoAndersonrsquos personal beauty philosophy

has evolved over time mdash particularly as her four year-old daughter watches her get ready

ldquoI look back at pictures and I think man I was really making myself look worse than what I was given naturally I am actually putting too much on myselfrdquo Anderson said ldquoI was meeting people that were saying Oh my gosh wow yoursquore so much prettier in person and then Gwyneth was always saying to me lsquoYou should really do your own makeup morersquordquo

Her daughter chimed in one day Anderson said when she was putting on her makeup asking ldquoMommy why are you making your-self dirtyrdquo

And while she wasnrsquot about to be a woman who just skips out on makeup entirely Anderson said her outlook shifted ldquoMy phi-losophy is one that has really evolvedrdquo she said ldquoProducts that if my pores open up and [they] sink in actually make my skin better and healthier mdash that makes me feel complete and goodrdquo

So now Anderson says she has been doing her own makeup more frequently and been using products that are ldquoas natural as possiblerdquo

And in addition to fronting Ecco Bella Anderson is eyeing product development ldquo[The] skin care is like 100 percent plus bonus points I canrsquot even be more in love with itrdquo she said ldquoIn [the] makeup palette I love it but I said lsquoWould you consider other productsrsquo I do a lot of press and Irsquove learned so much about makeup over the years I said lsquoWould you let me come in and help with the makeuprsquo and she was like lsquo100 percent yesrsquo So wersquove talked about itrdquo

BEAUTY

Tracy Anderson Jumps Into Beauty as New Face of Ecco Bella

8 30 AUGUST 2016

With new fashion-conscious designs Tretorn owner Authentic Brands Group looks to capture a piece of the sneaker craze

BY MISTY WHITE SIDELL

Tretorn is looking to recapture its title as the tennis sneaker du jour The Swedish brand best known for its canvas Nylite style that was worn by Seventies tennis elites like Chris Evert is being reintro-duced to the market with updated designs and distribution strategies

Purchased from Puma by Authentic Brands Group in April 2015 Tretorn will mark a new foray this fall mdash its first season to be produced by licensee Marc Fisher ABG said it looks to multiply Tretornrsquos sales by five or six times in the next few years

While ABG owns Tretorn it collaborates with Marc Fisher on the design manufactur-ing and distribution of brand product

Tretorn was founded in 1891 and in its heyday was worn by athletic stars including Evert and Bjoumlrn Borg to capture Grand Slam titles Its been continuously produced and sold since but has become more of an under-the-radar label in the last decade

ldquoOur objective [in this partnership] is to

obviously put Tretorn back on the map as a go-to shoe and a go-to brand for tastemakers mdash igniting the brand through proper seeding and social channels This is a 125-year-old brand with great design heritagerdquo Nick Woodhouse president and chief marketing officer of ABG said

ldquoWe felt that Tretorn was an incredible brand one with great heritage and a great history mdash but itrsquos a brand thatrsquos been sitting on the sidelines for a few years With the current sneaker craze and an authentic brand we had a great avenue to rebuild a sneaker busi-ness and to take Tretorn product and iconic styles and give them a modern flavor The time felt really riperdquo said Susan Itzkowitz

president of Marc FisherWhile ABG also owns tennis performance

brand Prince it sees Tretornrsquos tennis quotient as more of a fashion play As such new Tretorn styles such as Nylite high-tops and the Eighties-inspired Rawlings have been introduced A snow boot is forthcoming for winter and updated rainwear styles (Tretorn signatures) will be brought to market in the coming months Shoes are set to retail from $65 to $170

The Tretorn Nylite has come under review as well The notably narrow style has been

readjusted to suit a wider array of foot beds Itrsquos also been produced in new materials mdash leather metallic and suede fabrications included

ldquoWe are going to maintain an authenticity The Nylite is a significantly iconic shoe but we needed to modernize it a bit Wersquove put in EcoOrtholite inner soles for more comfort done some things on the last upgraded the canvas wherever we could make improve-ments to modernize and improve the produc-tionrdquo Itzkowitz said of the slightly widened Nylite design

These updated designs have earned a new list of stockists mdash including Abercrombie amp Fitch and Foot Lockerrsquos Six02 Woodhouse said its own brick-and-mortar stores are in the pipeline for the brand While the label had previously operated stand-alone stores in the US those units have all been closed

Tretorn will also look to South Korea Japan Scandinavia and Mexico as key mar-kets for further expansion

Said Woodhouse ldquoThe overall point for me is that this is a 125-year-old brand with tremendous heritage Wersquove been having a Stan Smith moment recently as far as being in the zeitgeist of pop culture and I would like people to see Tretorns now and say lsquoWow I used to have a pair of thosersquordquo

ACCESSORIES

Tretorn Looks to Become Shoppers New Favorite Tennis-Style Sneaker

And

erso

n ph

otog

raph

by

Dar

ina

Todo

rova

Tracy Anderson for Ecco Bella

Two Tretorn sneakers

30 AUGUST 2016 9

The label is aiming to become a laboratory of knitwear in the contemporary market

BY KRISTI GARCED

Wei Lin a former business consultant in Manhattan founded her New York-based knitwear label PH5 in 2014 in an effort to support her familys business Back in China the Lins own a factory that manufactures knits for top designer brands in Europe and the US

Now that labor is so expensive in China and more and more labor is moving to South-east Asia we wanted to make something of our own Lin said We were thinking Whats next I saw [launching the label] as a natural progression

But Lin couldnt run PH5 on her own With a firm grasp on the business side of the brand she needed a designer to take over the creative direction so Lin tapped Mijia Zhang a graduate of The New Schools Parsons School of Design for the gig Shes the art Im the science Lin said with a laugh (The two met in New York as roommates)

During her time at Parsons Zhang was no ordinary student In June 2014 her senior thesis collection won over a panel of insiders including Tomas Maier Laurent Claquin and more as part of Parsons and Kerings third annual ldquoEmpowering Imaginationrdquo student design competition As one of two winners Zhang got her pick from 22 Kering-owned brands for a post-graduate internship She chose Christopher Kane in London I wanted to go to a younger brand because I like that playfulness Thats the DNA of my designs

Zhang said Its fun and creative at Christo-pher Kane and its a smaller company so I got to see every part of the business

After her yearlong stint in London Zhang held further internships at Tabitha Simmons Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein before being recruited by Nike where she worked on the brands color design for sportswear and sneakers

Joining forces at PH5 the duos goal is to become a laboratory of knitwear in the con-temporary market mdash pushing the envelope on knits in a young inventive and playful way For a lot of designer brands knitwear is not their focus They stick with safer designs mdash things that sell and are easier to develop Lin said For us theres more you can do to knitwearhellipWhen people think of knits they might think of wool cashmere mdash easy comfortable knits But not a lot of brands push the technical limits of knitwear mdash the machine knits Kind of like what Alaiumla does but a lot lower in price point younger more playful and contemporary Thats the idea behind our line

The brands moniker is based on the numeric pH scale which ranges from 0 to 14 with seven as neutral Lin and Zhang mused that if the pH scale measured femininity instead of acidity their brand would sit at about five hence the name PH5 Its slightly feminine but were trying to be a cool younger sportier brand More casual We saw this niche market we could dive into Zhang said

The line ranges in price at retail from $150 up to about $400 for more complex designs which Lin admitted drive the factory work-ers nuts One technique using sheer yarns for example took months of development to perfect There are so many issues with this stitch Lin explained holding up a sheer knit

cardigan with colorful embroidery and trans-parent layers It always breaks has holes is never perfect We trialed many times and it finally worked

The collection is sold globally at boutiques across the US Canada and Asia including Blue 1 in Westhampton NY Joshua David in Canada and Society A in Singapore Online PH5 can be found on Shopbopcom as well as its own e-commerce site PH5com

Spring 2017 marks the brands seventh col-lection overall and the second under Zhangs creative direction (The first five collections featured collaborations with designers Edmund Ooi and Steven Oo both of whom left to pursue other projects) The latest lineup is inspired by artists including the Quistrebert Brothers and Katharina Grosse and PH5 will debut the collection in their first presentation during New York Fashion Week on Sept 8 from 2 to 230 pm at 102 Franklin Street

Many of the brands silhouettes are playful and a little offbeat mdash think colorful crop tops zippered skirts or a flared jumpsuit with a sexy neckline mdash many of them cut oversize the way cool girls like to wear them We dont want to do grandma knits Lin said

FASHION

Duo FormulatesKnitwear Brand PH5

The Italian mens wear company announced a four-year partnership with Chinarsquos national soccer team

BY SANDRA SALIBIAN

Ermenegildo Zegna Group inked an agreement to design and provide the official menrsquos off-field formal and leisurewear attire for Chinarsquos national soccer team and Under 22Under 23 team Run-ning through Jan 31 2020 the sponsorship will cover the 2018 FIFA World Cup qualifying matches and will be previewed today during Chinarsquos national team playersrsquo travel from Shenyang to Seoul for a game against Korea Republic

The partnership marks a new milestone for the company in China where the brand has been present for 25 years since the opening of its first flagship in Beijing in 1991

ldquoIt is a great honor for Zegna to dress Chinarsquos National Football Team and the U-22U-23 team said Gildo Zegna chief executive officer of the namesake company highlighting the huge poten-tial of the sport in the country where several government initiatives have been geared toward raising public interest and expanding the soccer community We are excited to use our experience and heritage in tailoring to dress the countryrsquos national team and I know that the players will make us and their nation proud

Zhang Jian vice president and general secre-tary of CFA the Chinese soccer association said ldquoErmenegildo Zegna is renowned as one of the worldrsquos most famous menswear brands while both the national [soccer] team and the Under 2223 team command a loyal and rapidly growing following Jian stressed how the partnership will elevate the image of our countryrsquos national [soccer] teamrdquo and hoped it will ldquohelp inspire [the team] to victories on the fieldrdquo

Exclusively designed for the occasion both the tailor-made formal and leisurewear wardrobes are customized with the CFA Team China crest The formal uniform is a navy single-breasted suit with a red lining mdash a nod to the countrys official color Styled with a cotton white shirt navy pocket square with geometric details and burgundy or navy silk tie the look is completed by black derby shoes in calf leather and a raincoat in Ermeneg-ildo Zegnas Elements Trofeo fabric

The leisurewear option combines denim jeans with a navy full-zip sweatshirt in Techmerino a natural high-performance fabric made of pure merino wool Accessories include a dark blue backpack with red details and signature Triple Stitch sneakers in red grained calf leather

The sponsorship which will be promoted by a marketing and communications campaign is not the companys first presence in the sporting field Over the years Ermenegildo Zegna Group not only enhanced its connection with the world of sport creating high-performance fabrics and activewear but also supported several events including the Italian regattas in Portofino

FASHION

Ermenegildo Zegna to Feature In Chinese Soccer

She has used fashion as a springboard to design furniture lighting accessories and also partake in philanthropy

BY ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

Multidisciplinary designer Clodagh has spent the past 33 years divvying up her talents mdash an abundance of which are being revealed this fall

ldquoMy theory in life is to never specialize because I think it makes you dull and boringrdquo she said ldquoI started out in fashion in 1983 Then I changed husbands countries and careers and moved to Spain I started doing what I do now I do everything mdash I design rugs fabrics furniture lighting faucets accessories

She and her team have designed ldquoevery scraprdquo of the newly opened East hotel in Miami save for the restaurants In a few weeks the Ireland-born designer will travel to Portugal to put the finishing touches on some of the villas at the Six Senses Douro Valley Rooted in well-ness and sustainability her vision for the resort includes an organic garden on what used to be the tennis court Chefs at Vale drsquoAbraatildeo Open Kitchen and Dining Room harvest vegetables for guests meals The Six Senses has been shortlisted for the 2016 European Hotel Design awards for the Spa amp Wellness category She will also be honored this fall with a Hospitality Design Platinum Circle award

Clodagh is also working on her fifth hotel in Armenia with Tufenkian Heritage Hotels The alliance is an extension of one the designer has with founder James Tufenkian who also runs Tufenkian Artisan Carpets which was started

in order to revitalize the ancient art of Tibetan car-pet weaving in Nepal

In addition to residential buildings in Long Island NY and San Francisco Clodagh is creating interi-ors for a private compound in the Dominican Republic Her company recently

relocated to new offices at East 23rd Street in Manhattan where they also work on branding projects for select companies

ldquoI find that very exciting Being Irish I focus on words I was born in Oscar Wildersquos home country Literature poetry and music are so important in Irelandrdquo she said ldquoI have always written I usually write what Irsquom thinking of designing before I actually start to design Words always conjure up images and theyrsquore more flexible You can move them around in your head You know how books are converted into movies Itrsquos a little bit like that

Although she started in fashion with the launch of her company in 1983 she stopped designing collections in 2011 At that time the German eco-friendly label Hessnatur nixed its plans to break into the American market

and parted ways with her and fellow designer collaborators Miguel Adrover and Eviana Hart-man But Clodagh said she is eager to return to designing comfortable glamorous clothes for women

Her commitment to sustainability is also ingrained in The Thorn Tree Project a volun-teer-run organization that helps the Samburu people realize their dream of educating their children The group was founded 15 years ago by Jane Newman who was taken in by some of the Samburu people after her Land Rover broke down while traveling from Nairobi Kenya to Addis Ababa Ethiopia Once back in the US Newman who once headed up Chiat Days New York office worked with Clodagh to organize a fund-raiser to open the first preschool More than 1500 students are now in school and many of the studentsrsquo ill parents are getting sponsored so that their children can attend high school and college

Proceeds from the $25 Breakfast bracelets that are made by some of the women in the Samburu tribe cover the cost of breakfast for one-year for students During a recent trip to Kenya Newman brought a copy of Harperrsquos Bazaar which featured their handwork to show the workers their most recent publicity To try to strengthen this initiative Clodagh plans to recruit a handful of designers to create customized items for a fashion show at The Thorn Tree Projectrsquos November fund-raiser in New York

FASHION

Irish Designer Clodagh to Be Honored

Zhang Jian soccer player Cheng Dong Zhang and Gildo Zegna

Clodagh

Clo

dagh

pho

togr

aph

by J

onat

han

Bec

kerm

an Z

egna

by

Zang

Kan

A look from the PH5 spring 2017 collection

10 30 AUGUST 2016

Alicia Patterson was a pioneer in many respects She was one of the first women pilots and as such set several land and speed records She was an excellent rider and a big-game hunter And she founded and ran Newsday Now Alice Arlen and Michael J Arlen have written a biography of her ldquoThe Huntress The Adventures Escapades and Triumphs of Alicia Patterson Aviatrix Sportswoman Journalist Publisherrdquo (Pantheon Books New York)

ldquoShe was the middle child of her family she started out kind of the ugly duckling bouncing around here and there in and out of school and finding a sort of purpose in being kind of a tomboy friend pal to her fatherrdquo says Mi-chael J Arlen of his subject whose father Joe Patterson founded The Daily News ldquoThatrsquos how she started adventuring hunting big game and flying Extremely active very audacious At a certain point things started coming together for her and she followed the family path into newspapering but did it very much her own way

ldquoI think what we were trying to show in the book is how dynamic the kind of lives were that used to be much more common to menrdquo Arlen adds ldquoHerersquos a woman who started out with a certain amount of privilege and privilege is often as much trouble as it is an advantage She kind of kept falling over herself kept going in the wrong direction mdash just the sort of thing that men had so often done mdash found herself where she could change her life and did sordquo

Alice Arlen Michael J Arlenrsquos wife was the niece of Alicia Patterson and the grand-niece of Cissy Patterson also a newspaper publisher about whom she wrote a 1966 biography of that name It was her idea to write Alicia Pat-tersonrsquos biography Unfortunately Alice Arlen died in February after a long illness

ldquoAlice was really a remarkable womanrdquo recalls her widower ldquoAnd calling her affectionate doesnrsquot really say it She had this extraordi-nary gift for specific connectionsrdquo

To write her first screenplay she teamed with Nora Ephron ldquoNora was working for magazines and trying to get her own screenwriting career off the ground and her agent funneled towards her a television play that hadnrsquot gotten out about Karen Silkwood Meryl Streep had optioned it and any-way Nora thought that she needed somebody to help write it with her Alice had reinvented herself by going off to Columbia Film School so Alice and Nora got together and Mike Nichols came aboard too So they would go down for the better part of a year every morning to his office at the Carlyle Hotel

ldquoThey were sort of having trouble in their Carlyle Hotel period and Alice found out that some of the original characters in the

Silkwood story were still very much around in Oklahoma and Texas so she told Mike and Nora that they should go down there and they were extremely resistant But Alice finally persuaded Nora to go down with her and out of that came the screenplay It became the Oscar-nominated 1983 film ldquoSilkwoodrdquo)

Alicia Pattersonrsquos third husband Harry Guggenheim put up the money to launch Newsday and he insisted that he retain 52 percent of the shares in the venture to her 48 But he had his own job mdash run-ning the vast Guggenheim mining

interests mdash and it was Patterson who actually created and ran the paper ldquoShe was very prescient to guess that this little sleepy part of Long Island would grow so muchrdquo says Arlen

One of the revelations in the book is that Patterson and Illinois Gov Adlai Stevenson had a romance as well as a longtime friendship ldquoHe was often kind of crippled by indecisionrdquo says Arlen ldquoShe was influential in getting him into politics She was the stable one the successful one It was always her temperament to say lsquoDo it Get goingrsquordquo

Both Alicia and her aunt he notes came from ldquofamilies out of the American heartland that had arrived on a boat a long time ago These were families that made the center of America They were full of purpose and Presbyterianism The great figure of the family Joe Medill [an owner of the Chicago Tribune and mayor of Chicago af-ter the Great Fire of 1871] was one of the first Lincoln men a founder of the Republican Party and an early antislavery figure These were strong men often attached to extremely frivolous women Some members of these families were great and others ended up in a ditch

ldquoAlicia adored her own father Joe Patterson Arlen continues He was a very interesting man with much of the drive as well as the unreliability of his ancestors He made innovations in newspa-pers by starting crime reporting

and sports coverage adding com-ics and expanding the whole visual element He was an early backer of Roosevelt but then he got himself on the wrong side of history and ended badly [when he later] made a stand against himrdquo

Shortly after they married in the summer of 1939 Guggenheim suggested that Alicia Patterson

should run her own small news-paper He bought the presses of a very short-lived newspaper Sam Newhouse (founder of Advance Publications who would later buy Condeacute Nast) had run out of a for-mer car dealership in Hempstead NY He paid $50000 On Sept 3 1940 Patterson launched the first issue of Newsday which consisted of 30 pages many of them badly smudged She admitted ldquoIrsquom afraid it looks like hellrdquo

This however soon changed At first it ran in the red but the paper became profitable within a few years its circulation rising precipitously In spring 1949 Time magazine ran a full-page story on Patterson titled ldquoAnother Patter-sonrdquo which noted that Newsdays circulation was above 100000 and called the paper ldquoa journalistic jackpotrdquo

In 1950 and in 1953 Newsday

ran two series of exposeacutes about a union boss named William DeKoning who had a reputation for violence and graft In May 1953 Newsday won a Pulitzer Prize for its coverage Patterson was the subject of a Time cover story on Sept 13 1954

Patterson died unexpectedly of what her doctor called ldquouncontrol-lable bleedingrdquo after an operation in July 1963 She was 56

Arlenrsquos family had some interesting members of its own Perhaps the most intriguing was his father writer Michael Arlen who was born Dikran Kouyoumd-jian to an Armenian family living in Bulgaria In 1901 his family moved to Southport in Lancashire England and in 1913 he moved to London There he became a writer and took the pen name Michael Arlen His third book ldquoThe Green Hatrdquo published in 1924 mdash with its dramatic heroine Iris Storm who drove a yellow Hispano-Suiza mdash was a bestseller and brought him great fame He became a celebrated figure of the Twenties and a dandy

The younger Arlen has pub-lished eight other books among them the critically lauded ldquoExilesrdquo in 1970 and the 1975 ldquoPassage to Ar-aratrdquo which won the National Book Award He also worked for Life magazine and was the television critic for The New Yorker

What did he learn from the senior Arlen ldquoI think I learned to find my own wayrdquo he says ldquoI think probably those things that yoursquore very reluctant to learn when yoursquore young which is the sheer hard work of it and the fact that if it seems easy it probably isnrsquot right

ldquoI also think he was an original He was the youngest son of a very solid mercantile Armenian family He himself was very playful ambitious and he invented a public persona But he was quite different from it he was very warmhearted

ldquoMy father was really a very good guy very hard-working He wrote lsquoThe Green Hatrsquo in about three months and he knew it was going to be a big deal and it was But he wrote at least a dozen books and some of the others did pretty well But people were always saying lsquoWhen are you going to write another lsquoGreen Hatrsquorsquo you knowrdquo mdash LORNA KOSKI

Telling the Story of Alicia Patterson the Founder of NewsdayA new book recounts the life of the papers founder and was written by a couple with an interesting background of their own

Alicia Patterson starts the first Newsday press run September 1940

Michael Arien

The Huntress

Copublishers in wartime while

Lieutenant Commander

Guggenheim was running things at

Mercer Field Alicia was

running things at Newsday

CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

ATTEND PREIDYWWDCOM 6463564724 SPONSOR ACOYLEWWDCOM 6463564719

summitswwdcom

DIGITAL FORUM NEW YORKSEPTEMBER 21 - 22 bull NEW YORK CITY

EVENT SPONSORS

PRESENTING SPONSOR AMERICAN EXPRESS

Charlie ColeTUMI

Laura ElkinsMAC COSMETICS

Mark Lippmann DEBORAH LIPPMANN

Jeff RaiderHARRYrsquoS INC

12 30 AUGUST 2016

A Tale of Two CitiesThe Arc de Triomphe makes a dramatic settee for model Joan Smalls while the Eiffel Tower looms behind Hailey Baldwin as she straddles the Pont Neuf

Via deft photo montages Karl Lagerfeld opted to make Parisian landmarks along with a few New York ones the costars of his first campaign for the Karl Lagerfeld Paris line which joint venture partner G-III Apparel Group Ltd is launching this fall

ldquoFor a designer itrsquos great to work with the girls of the moment because not only clothes express our times but girls toordquo the designer says in a teaser video on the new karllagerfeldpariscom web site

Print ads are breaking in September issues of magazines including Vanity Fair Harperrsquos Bazaar Elle and Vogue while the full digital campaign is to go live on Sept 7 The fashion house is plotting display and banner ads on key fashion sites for both

mobile and desktop in tandem with a social media campaign from its karllagerfeld accounts

The Karl Lagerfeld Paris collection has already been delivered to 285 doors of Lord amp Taylor Dillardrsquos and Hudsonrsquos Bay The range is also sold in Mexico at Liverpool and on the brandrsquos web site

The made-for-American range includes logo T-shirts for $3950 a short-sleeve lace dress for $145 a quilted lamb leather shoul-der bag for $228 and a studded nylon messenger for $158

G-III Apparel holds a 19 per-cent stake in Karl Lagerfeld Group BV and is behind the German designerrsquos push into North Amer-ica in the burgeoning ldquoaffordable luxuryrdquo category

Morris Goldfarb chairman president and chief executive officer of G-III has said the Lager-feld business has the potential within five years to be a $300 million to $400 million business at wholesale

Under the joint venture agree-ment G-III acquired a 49 percent

interest and became Lagerfeldrsquos first licensee securing a renew-able five-year pact for the initial categories The deal covers all consumer products and apparel in the US and Canada excepting those held by Karl Lagerfeld Group eyewear fragrance watches jewelry and hospitality services It also grants an exclu-sive royalty-free license to use the trademarks in Mexico for the same products mdash MILES SOCHA

First FaceBonobos has snagged Jimmy Butler an NBA All-Star shooting guard (and recent Olympic Gold Medalist) who plays for the Chica-go Bulls to be the face of its first advertising campaign

This marks the first time that the e-commerce mens wear retailer will engage in traditional advertising

Butler a longtime fan of the brand will appear in the ldquoWear No Doubtsrdquo campaign which will de-but on Sept 12 and will also wear Bonobos pants sport coats outerwear and button-down shirts during his time off the court Additionally he will partner with the company on social media and consumer marketing initiatives throughout the year while curating a collection of his favorite Bonobos items that customers can shop online via a special tab on the companys web site

ldquoWe have two very exciting firsts happening at Bonobos mdash our first-ever traditional advertising campaign as well as the first time wersquove enlisted an official brand ambassador We are beyond excited to be working with Jimmy for both of these mile-stonesrdquo said Andy Dunn chief executive officer and founder of Bonobos ldquoJimmy exhibits what

it means to wear no doubts both on and off the court We are honored to welcome him into the Bonobos familyrdquo

The company described But-ler as a balance of confidence and humility who was a natural fit for the role as he embodies such characteristics in his daily life The campaign was created by Austin Tex-based Preacher

ldquoBonobosrsquo quality style and fit are consistently on point I always find clothes that fit perfectly and look great without tailoring which is rarely the case for my hard-to-fit buildrdquo said Butler ldquoI am so excited to work with Bonobos on the lsquoWear No Doubtsrsquo campaign and to be their first-ever brand ambassadorrdquo

The ldquoWear No Doubtsrdquo campaign will feature fall product and will be in national print online and local broadcast media in Houston Atlanta and Chicago Out-of-home advertisements will also appear in Chicagorsquos subways and stations

Bonobos started in 2007 with a pair of mens pants and now op-erates an online business as well as 22 Guideshop e-commerce retail stores around the US The collection is carried in 121 Nord-strom stores and on the retailers web site mdash JEAN E PALMIERI

Degen enlisted nine artists and designers to collaborate and construct an 8-foot sculpture comprised of various textiles

BY ARTHUR FRIEDMAN

Lindsay Degen has something to say about textile waste and the fashion manufacturing cycle and shersquos chosen a creative way to make her statement

ldquoLi Edelkoort encouraged me to participate as part of New York Tex-tile Month and I thought it was a cool opportunity to do something that educates people about textiles but is still within the realm of fashionrdquo Degen said ldquoI thought I would get a group of textile designers and artists together to make a sculpture that kind of references different garment partsrdquo

Trend forecaster Edelkoort has spear-headed the first New York Textile Month in September a citywide multiinstitu-tional series of events and exhibitions to pay tribute to the cityrsquos textile industry

and encourage its future developmentDegen enlisted nine artists and

designers to collaborate and construct an eight-foot sculpture comprised of various textiles from Fabscrap a fabric upcycler that sources discarded fabric waste

Degen worked with the crew to

knit sew embroider embellish pattern-make and drape the abstract sculpture The roster of collaborators include artists Kate Phillips Amy Cakes Heather Marie Scholl Eliza Fisher Katelynn Hanners Kayla Carpitella and Lexy Ho-Tai

The larger-than-life one-of-a-kind

piece representing an abstracted human in motion features a knitted hat zipper sleeves skirt legs socks and Teva sandals and is shown in eight tiers while models wearing clothes made from the same materials study the form

ldquoConstructrdquo will be unveiled on Sept 9 at the South Street Seaportrsquos Wanted-Design space on the second floor from 6 to 8 pm as part of Degenrsquos spring col-lection presentation and then will be open to the public from Sept 10 to 14

Degen said the gallery-style show will include models wearing minimal makeup looking curiously at the sculp-ture as if contemplating ldquowho makes fashionrdquo

ldquoI hope there are multiple things that people take awayrdquo Degen said ldquoThe point is how to think about how clothes are made and who makes it that the industry has a problem with sustainabil-ity and how and where things are made

ldquoItrsquos also a social stance on the celeb-ritization of fashion on why are people so in awe of models when there are people who are unrecognized who make the fabrics and make the garments Therersquos a wastefulness in fashion in terms of the way materials are used and also in what is not actually bought and who knows where it goesrdquo

As for using recycled or upcycled materials in her own collection Degen said ldquoYoursquore foolish if yoursquore unable to use recycled materials because not only are they way cheaper but therersquos a huge variety of the type of materials that are available Itrsquos important and smartrdquo

THE MARKETS

Lindsay Degen Constructs A Fashion Statement

Switching It UpThe game of musical chairs that is the New York Fashion Week calendar this season continues with Marc Jacobs moving up and out of his typical Park Avenue Armory venue and 6 pm time slot on Thursday the final day of the shows

This season Jacobs is showing at the Hammerstein Ballroom at 2 pm on Sept 15 A representative for the company said it was able to move the show time up because it had more flexibility with Hammerstein than with the Armory and frankly it was just polite since Thursdays usual major players mdash Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein mdash had basically left the days schedule wide open Details on show format and set at the Hammerstein Ballroom were not disclosed mdash JESSICA IREDALE

Ryding In StyleWhen the Americans arrive at the Hazeltine National Golf Club in Chaska Minn next month for the Ryder Cup theyrsquoll be sporting uniforms designed by Ralph Lauren

As the official outfitter for the US team the company has naturally created a collection in a red white and blue palette The on-course uniform features stripes and colorblocking with patriotic logos and graphics in performance fabrics

Ralph Lauren will also outfit Ryder Cup captain Davis Love 3rd who was the guest of honor at an event at the Polo flagship in New York on Monday night to unveil the uniforms

Love and the team which consists of the top eight American players as well as four captainrsquos picks will wear Lauren-designed uniforms at the opening ceremony and welcome

dinner as well as on courseAs a further nod to their home

country the waistband on all competi-tion pants will be printed with the say-ing United We Stand An American flag is etched on the reverse of the team belt buckle and a Stars-and-Stripes camo print appears on selected outerwear

At the opening ceremony the team will be dressed in navy doeskin blazers spread-collar poplin shirts customized club ties and charcoal trousers Love will wear a gray rope-stripe suit For the welcome dinner players will wear navy suits with matching solid ties and white poplin shirts and white pocket squares Love will wear a charcoal suit with black tie and dress shoes

The Ralph Lauren Ryder Cup collec-tion of Polo Golf and RLX Golf apparel will be available for purchase on the Ralph Lauren and PGA web site as well as select golf clubs resorts and retail stores A portion of the proceeds will benefit the PGA of Americarsquos 41 Sections to grow and teach the game of golf and PGA Reach a program that seeks to positively impact the lives of veterans youth and diverse popula-tions through the game of golf mdash JEAN E PALMIERI

Fashion Scoops

Memo Pad

Deg

en p

hoto

grap

h by

Mat

Sliw

a B

utle

r by

Chr

is M

cPhe

rson

Jac

obs

by B

FAc

omR

EXS

hutt

erst

ock

Lindsay Degens Construct sculpture and a

look from her spring collection

Jimmy Butler will be the new brand ambassador for Bonobos

Karl Lagerfeld Paris fall campaign

Marc Jacobs at the Lee by Lee Radziwill book celebration New York America - 16 Dec 2015