SINGERTheCompletePhotoGuideTo

SEWING

1200Full-ColorHow-toPhotos

CONTENTS

HowtoUseThisBook

GETTINGSTARTED

TheSewingMachine

CreatingthePerfectStitchMachineAccessoriesforSpecialTasks

TheSergerTheStitchesandtheirUsesCreatingthePerfectStitch

SergerBasics

EssentialEquipmentandSuppliesSpecialEquipmentNotions

ThePattern

ThePatternEnvelopeInsidethePattern

FabricEssentialsHandlingSpecialFabrics

ClassicFabricTexturesandDesignsLooseWeavesCorduroyandVelveteen

KnitsSheerandSilkyFabricsLustrousFabricsLaceandEmbroideredFabricsSyntheticFur,Suede,andLeatherInterfacing

Layout,Cutting,andMarking

PreparingtheFabricLayingOutthePatternLayingOutPlaidsandStripesLayingOutDirectionalFabricsCuttingTips

MarkingTips

SEWINGTECHNIQUES

GeneralGuidelinesforPatternAdjustmentsChoosinganAdjustmentMethodBasicLengthAdjustmentsFittingtheBust

FittingtheWaistandAbdomenFittingHips

SeamsEncasedSeamsStretchSeamsSeamFinishesBoundSeamFinishes

SergerSeamsandSeamFinishes

Darts

Gathers

Sleeves

Cuffs

Collars

Waistbands

Hems

EasyEdges

PocketsPatchPocketsIn-SeamPockets

SlantedPocketsWeltPockets

ClosuresHooksandEyesButtonholesButtons

SnapsZippers

TailoringInterfacingtheJacketSectionsTailoringaNotchedCollarShapingtheShouldersTailoredHems

LiningLiningaSkirtorPants

SewingActivewear

ElasticizedWaistbandsRibbedEdgesSwimsuitsandLeotards

HOMEDECORATING

DecoratorFabricsCuttingDecoratorFabrics

WorkingwithPatternedFabricSeams

PillowsKnife-EdgePillowsMockBoxPillowsFlangePillowsBoxPillows

BolsterPillowsClosureOptionsDecorativeEdges

SlipcoversReversibleSeatCoverCushions

FutonCoverParsonsChair

WindowTreatmentsTermstoKnowMeasuringtheWindow

SelectingandInstallingHardwareCoveringandInstallingMountingBoardsHemsTaperedScarfSwagsGatheredPickupValance

FlatRomanShadesTuckedRomanShadesFlatPanelCurtainsTabCurtainsClassicRod-PocketCurtainsPinch-PleatedDraperies

BedandBath

FlangedPillowShamsDuvetCoverBedSkirtsShowerCurtain

TableFashionsRoundTablecloths

SquareandRectangularTableclothsReversiblePlacematsNapkins

Index

HowtoUseThisBook

Likeanyotherartorcraft,sewingbeginswithbasictechniques.TheCompletePhotoGuidetoSewinggivesyoutheessentialinformationyouneedforsewinggarmentsanditemsforyourhome.Inadditiontobasictechniques,specialtysewingtopics,suchasfitting,sewingactivewear,andsewinghomedécorprojects,arealsoincluded.

GettingStarted

Thissectiongivesyouinformationonthesewingmachineandtheserger.Weshowyouhowtogettheperfectstitchandtellyouaboutspecialfeaturesandaccessoriesforbothmachines.Wealsotellyouabouttheequipmentandnotionsyouwillneedforallofyoursewing,plussometimesavingequipmentthatwillmakeyoursewingeasier.

Alsocoveredinthefirstsectionisthepattern.Youwilllearnhowtotakeyourmeasurementsandselectthecorrectsize.Acomprehensiveguidetofabricselectionisincludedaswellascuttingandsewingtips.Thereisalsoinformationonhowtochooseandapplyinterfacing.

SewingTechniques

Thissectionfeaturesthebasictechniquesyouwillusefornearlyeverythingyousew:garmentsandhomedecoratingprojects.Thebasicsewingtechniquesincludefitting,seams,darts,gathering,sleeves,collars,waistbands,cuffs,andclosures.Eachisgivenanoverview,followedbyastep-by-stepdescriptionofhowtoachievethebestresults.Oftenseveralmethodsarepresentedwithguidanceastowhenandwheretouseeachone.

HomeDecoratingProjects

Westartwiththebasicsoffabricselectionandothertipsonplanningaproject.Instructionsformanyoftheprojectsincludealternatemethodsandsuggesttimesavingtechniques.

TheHomeDecoratingsectionisdividedintofiveprojectcategories:windows,pillows,bedandbath,slipcovers,andtables.Forwindows,wegiveinstructionsforstandardfavorites,suchaspinch-pleateddraperies,Romanshades,andmanyothers.Fourbasicpillowstylesareshownplusvariationsforclosures.Usingfabricsofyourchoice,youroptionsforpillowsareendless.Makeacomfortercoverforyourbed,andaddpillowshamsandadustruffletomatch.Makenewcushions,slipcoveryourdiningchairs,ormakeacoverforafuton.Fortables,learnhowtomakerectangularandroundtablecloths,placemats,andmanyvariationsofnapkins.

Eachcategoryincludesanoverviewandhowtotakemeasurementsfortheprojects.Foreasyreference,fabricandnotionsrequiredtocompleteaprojectareincludedinaboxlabeledYOUWILLNEED.Thestep-by-stepinstructionsarecomplete:youdonothavetopurchaseadditionalpatterns.Thephotographsshowyouhoweachprojectshouldlookeachstepoftheway.

Step-by-StepGuidance

Thephotosadddepthanddimensiontotheinstructions,givingyouaclose-uplookateachstep.Insomecases,thestitchesareshowninheavierthreadoracontrastingcolortomakethemmorevisible.Somemarkinglineshavealsobeenexaggeratedtoshowacrucialmatchingpoint.

Ifyouarelearningtoseworgettingbacktosewing,youmaywanttopracticeyourskillsonaneasyprojectbeforestartingalargerone.Trysewingsimpleplacematsandnapkinstopracticeanewedgefinish.Whenyousewafirstgarment,chooseasimplestylethatiseasytofit,withfewdetails.

Whetheryouareanewsewer,anexperiencedsewer,orareturningsewer,thisbookisdesignedtobeahelpandaninspiration.Useitasyourstep-by-stepguidetothesatisfactionandfunofsuccessfulsewing.

GETTINGSTARTED

TheSewingMachine

Asewingmachineisyourmostimportantpieceofsewingequipment,soselectonewithcare.Asturdy,well-builtmachinewillgiveyoumanyyearsofsewingenjoyment.

Ifyouarebuyinganewmachine,thereareavarietyofmodelsavailabletofitanybudgetorsewingneed.Typesrangefromabasiczigzagwithoneortwobuilt-institches,totheelectronicmachinethatusesadvancedcomputertechnologytocontrolandselectthestitching.

Availablefeaturesincludebuilt-inbuttonholer,color-codedstitchselection,instantreverse,snap-onpresserfoot,freearmforstitchingsmallroundareas(suchaspantslegs),built-inbobbinwinder,automatictensionandpressureadjustment,andautomaticstitchlengthadjustment.Eachfeatureusuallyaddstothecostofthemachine,solookforamachinetomatchyoursewingprojects.Buyamachinethatsatisfiesyoursewingneeds,butdon’tpayforfeaturesyouwillrarelyuse.Alsoconsidertheamountanddifficultyofthesewingyoudo,andthenumberofpeopleyousewfor.Talktofabricstorepersonnelandfriendswhosew.Askfordemonstrationsandtryoutandcompareseveralmodels.Lookforqualityworkmanshipandeaseofoperationaswellasstitchingoptions.

Themachine’scabinetryisanotherfactortoconsider.Portablemachinesoffertheflexibilityofmovingtovariousworksurfaces.

Machinesbuiltintocabinetsaredesignedtobetherightheightforsewing.Theyalsohelpyoustayorganizedbyprovidingaconvenientplacetostoresewingequipmentandkeepithandy.

Althoughsewingmachinesvaryincapabilitiesandaccessories,eachhasthesamebasicpartsandcontrols.Checkyourmanualforspecificlocationofthesepartsonyourmachine.

CREATINGTHEPERFECTSTITCH

Perfectstitchingiseasytoachieveifyouthreadthemachineproperlyandmaketherightadjustmentsinthestitchlength,tension,andpressure.Theseadjustmentsdependonyourfabricandthekindofstitchdesired.Consultyourmachinemanualforthreadingproceduresandlocationofcontrols.

Thestitchlengthregulatorisoneitheraninchscalefrom0to20,ametricscalefrom0to4,oranumericalscalefrom0to9.Fornormalstitching,settheregulatorat10to12stitchesperinch,oratthenumber3formetricscalemachines.Onthenumericalscale,highernumbersformalargerstitch;ifashorterstitchisdesired,dialalowernumber.Anaveragestitchlengthisatnumber5.

Bobbinsmaybebuilt-inorremovableforwinding.Bobbinswithabuilt-incasearewoundinthecase.Removablebobbinshavearemovablebobbincasewithatensionadjustmentscrew.Theymaybewoundonthetoporsideofthemachine.Startwithanemptybobbinsothethreadwillwindevenly.Donotwindittoofullorthebobbinthreadwillbreak.

Intheidealstitch,bothtopandbobbinthreadaredrawnequallyintothefabric,andthelinkisformedmidwaybetweenfabriclayers.Thestitchtensioncontroldeterminestheamountoftensiononthethreadsastheypassthroughthemachine.Toomuchtensionresultsintoolittlethreadfedintothestitch.Thiscausesthefabrictopucker.Toolittletensionproducestoomuchthreadandaweak,loosestitch.

Adjustthepressureregulatorforlightpressureonheavyweightfabrics,

morepressureonlightfabrics.Correctpressureensuresevenfeedingofthefabriclayersduringstitching.Somemachinesautomaticallyadjusttensionandpressuretothefabric.

Alwayschecktensionandpressureonascrapoffabricbeforestartingtosew.Whenexperimentingwithpressureandtension,threadthemachinewithdifferentcolorsfortopandbobbinthreadtomakethestitchlinkseasiertosee.

StraightStitchTensionandPressure

Correcttensionandpressuremakesstitchesthatarelinkedmidwaybetweenthefabriclayers.Thestitcheslookeveninlengthandtensiononbothsides.Fabriclayersarefedevenlythroughthefeedandfabricisnotmarred.

Tootighttensionresultsinstitchlinksthatarenearthetoplayeroffabric.Fabricispuckered,andstitchesareeasilybroken.Turntensiondialtoalowernumber.Ifpressureistooheavy,thebottomlayermaygatherup.Fabricmayshiftorstretch.Stitchesmaybeuneveninlengthandtension.Dialpressureregulatortoalowernumber.

Tooloosetensionresultsinstitchlinksthataretowardthebottomfabriclayer.Seamisweek.Correcttheproblembyturningtensiondialtoahighernumber.Toolightpressuremaycauseskippedandunevenstitches,andmaypullfabricintothefeed.Dialpressureregulatortoahighernumber.

ZigzagStitchTensionandPressure

Correcttensionandpressureinzigzagstitchingproducesstitchesinwhichtheinterlockinglinkofthreadsfallsatthecornerofeachstitch,midwaybetweenfabriclayers.Stitcheslieflatandfabricdoesnotpucker.

Tootighttensioncausesfabrictopucker.Thethreadlinkfallsnearthetopfabriclayer.Tocorrect,decreasethetension.Incorrectpressureisnotasapparentinzigzagasinstraightstitching.Butifthepressureisnotaccurate,stitcheswillnotbeofevenlength.

Tooloosetensioncausesthebottomlayertopuckerandthethreadlinktofallnearthebottomfabriclayer.Increasetensiontobalancestitch.Thezigzagstitchshouldbeproperlybalancedinnormalsewing.Loosentensionslightlyfordecorativestitches,andthetopstitchpatternwillbecomemorerounded.

MACHINEACCESSORIESFORSPECIALTASKS

Everysewingmachinehasaccessoriesthatallowittoperformavarietyofspecialtasks.Thereareuniversalaccessoriesthatfitanymachine,suchasthezipperfoot,buttonholeattachmentandvarioushemmingfeet.Otheraccessories,suchasarufflerattachment,aredesignedtosavetimeandeffortforspecialtypesofsewing.

Whenaddingaspecialaccessoryorfoottoamachine,youmustknowifyourmachinehasahighshank,lowshank,orslantedshank.Theshankisthedistancefromthebottomofthepresserfoottotheattachmentscrew.Attachmentsarespecificallydesignedtofitoneofthesethreestyles.

Thezigzagplateandthegeneralpurposefootusuallycomewiththemachine.Otheraccessoriesoftenincludedarethestraight-stitchplateandfoot,buttonholefootorattachment,zipperfoot,seamguide,varioushemmingfeet,andEvenFeedorrollerfoot.Themachinemanualexplainshowtoattachthevariousaccessoriesandachievethebestresultswitheach.

Buttonholeattachmentsallowyoutostitchcompletebuttonholesinasinglestep.Onetypestitchesandadjuststhebuttonholelengthtofitthebuttonplacedinacarrierbehindthefoot.Anothertypeofbuttonholerforstraight-stitchmachinesmakesbuttonholesautomaticallyusingtemplatesofvarioussizes.Keyholebuttonholescanbemadewiththisaccessory.

Straight-stitchplateandfootareusedforstraightstitchingonly.Theneedlehole(arrow)intheplateissmallandround.Thestraight-stitchplateandfootdonotallowforanysidewaysneedlemovement.Usethesefeatureswhenyourfabricorsewingprocedurerequiresclosecontrol,suchasedgestitchingormakingcollarpoints.Theyarealsogoodforsheersanddelicatefabrics,becausethesmallneedleholehelpskeepfragilefabricsfrombeingdrawnintothefeed.

Zigzagplateandfootaretheplateandfootonazigzagmachineattimeofpurchase.Theyareusedforzigzagandmulti-needleworkaswellasplainstraightstitchingonfirmfabrics.Theneedlehole(arrow)intheplateiswider,andthefoothasawiderareafortheneedletopassthrough,allowingforside-to-sideneedlemotion.Usethisplateandfootforgeneral-purposesewing.

Zipperfootisusedtostitchcording,insertzippers,orstitchanyseamthathasmorebulkononesidethantheother.Itadjuststoeithersideoftheneedle.

Specialpurposefoothasagroovedbottomthatallowsforthreadbuild-upindecorativestitches.Seamguideattachestomachineand

helpskeepseamallowancesandhemseven.

Blindstitchhemfootpositionsthehemforblindstitchhemmingonthemachine.Thisisafastalternativetohemmingbyhand.

EvenFeedfootfeedstopandbottomlayerstogethersoseamsstartandendevenly.Useitforvinyl,pilefabrics,bulkyknits,orotherfabricsthattendtostick,slip,orstretch.Thisfootisalsousefulfortopstitchingandstitchingplaids.

Buttonfootholdsflatbuttonsinpositionforattachingwithmachinezigzagstitch.Thisfootsavestimewhensewingonseveralbuttons.

Overedgefoothelpskeepstitchesatfullwidthandpreventscurlingofflatedgeswhensewingoveredgestitches.Stitchesareformedoverahookontheinsideedgeofthefoot.

TheSerger

Asergerisaspecial-purposesewingmachinethatsupplementsaconventionalmachine.Itissimilartothespeed-sewingequipmentusedbygarmentmanufacturers.Asergercutssewingtimeconsiderably,becauseittrimsandovercastsrawfabricedgesasitsewstheseam.Inaddition,itperformsthisthree-in-oneoperationathighspeed.Sergersform1,500ormorestitchesaminute—abouttwicetherateofconventionalsewingmachines.Asanotherbenefit,allfabricsfeedevenlysothateventraditionallydifficult-to-handlefabrics,suchasslipperysilksandthinsheers,willnottakeanyextrasewingtime.

Becauseofitsuniquecapabilities,asergerstreamlinesgarmentconstruction.Iteliminatestime-consumingstepsandencouragesefficientsewinghabitssuchasflatconstruction,pinlesssewing,andcontinuousseaming.Italsodispenseswithroutinessuchasraisingandloweringthepresserfoot,backstitching,andfillingbobbins.

FunctionsandParts

Asergerexcelsatmakingself-finishednarrowseams,rolledhems,blindstitchedhems,andovercastedgefinishes.Itisalsothemachinetochooseforapplyingelastic,ribbing,ribbons,andlace.Useaconventionalmachinewheneverstraightorzigzagstitchingisnecessary,suchasfortopstitching,insertingazipper,ormakingbuttonholes.

Manydifferentmodelsofsergersareavailable,eachofferingdifferenttypesofstitches.Sergerssewwithtwo,three,four,orfivethreads.Thenameofeachmachinetellswhichstitchesitoffers;forexample,a4/3-threadsergercanseweithera4-threadmocksafetystitchora3-threadoverlockstitch.Eachstitchtypeisuniqueandservesaspecialpurpose.

Asergercanbeidentifiedbytypeataglance.Eachtypehasacertainnumberofneedlesandloopers,andtheshapeoftheloopersiseasilyrecognized.Foranoverviewofthesergersavailableandthestitchestheysew,seepages18and19.

Needlesmaybeanindustrialtypewithshortorlongshaft,orastandardtypeusedonaconventionalsewingmachine.Usetheneedlespecifiedforyourmachine.Industrialneedlesarestrongerandlastlongerthanconventionalneedles,buttheymaybemoreexpensiveandlesswidelyavailable.Changeconventionalneedlesfrequently.Usethefinestneedlepossibletoavoiddamagingthefabric.Size11/80worksformostfabricweights.

Knivesworklikebladesofscissorstotrimthefabricforthestitchwidthselected.Oneknifeishigh-carbonsteelandmaylastseveralyears.The

otherknifeislessdurableandmayrequirereplacementthreeorfourtimesannually.Whenknivesseemdull,firstcleanthemwithalcohol;thenrepositionandtightenthescrew.Testbysewingslowly.Ifaproblemremains,replacethelessdurableknifeandtestagain.Asalastresort,replacetheotherknife.

SergerThread

Asergerusesmorethreadthanaconventionalsewingmachine,sothreadcompaniesofferthreadincones,kingtubes,andcompacttubes.Tubesandconeshaveatleast1,000yd.(920m)ofthread,andconescanhaveasmanyas6,000yd.(5520m).

Allpurposethreadmayalsobeusedontheserger;itisavailableonparallel-woundorcross-woundspools.Parallelwoundspoolsrequiretheuseofaspoolcapforevenfeeding.Thereisawidercolorselectioninallpurposethread;useitformedium-weightorheavyweightfabricswhencolormatchingiscritical.

Sergerthreadsaregenerallylighterinweightthanallpurposesewingthreads.Alightweightthreadisrecommendedforsergeruse.Thereismorethreadinasergedseamandalighter-weightthreadreducesbulk.

Sergermachinessewatahigherrateofspeedthanconventionalsewingmachinesandcreatemorestressonthethreads.Therefore,threadsneedtobestronganddurable.Testthreadforstrength;poor-qualitythreadmaybreakeasilyinsomespots.Usethebestqualityofthreadyoucan;bargainthreadssometimescausemoreproblemsthanthesavingsareworth.

PrincipalPartsoftheSerger

a.Threadguidesb.Telescopingthreadguideholderc.Spoolpins

d.Presserfootliftere.Needle,threadtensiondials(1or2,dependingonmodel)f.Looperthreadtensiondials(2or3,dependingonmodel)g.Needlesetscrewsh.Presserfoot

i.Stitchfingersj.Loopers(2or3,dependingonmodel)k.Needleplate

l.Knives

m.Stitchwidthregulatorn.Stitchlengthregulatoro.Handwheel

p.Powerandlightswitchq.Differentialfeedcontrol(notonallmodels)r.Threadingdiagramss.Loopercover(open)

Locationofsomemachinepartswillvary5-threadsergerwithcoverstitchshown

CareandMaintenance

Becauseasergertrimsfabricasitsews,itcreatesmorelintthanaconventionalmachineandneedstobecleanedfrequently.Useabrushorcannedairtoremovelintfromthelooperandthroatplatearea.Wipeofftensiondisks,needles,knives,andfeeddogwithalcohol.

Tokeepasergerrunningsmoothlyandquietly,oilitoften.Sergersarelubricatedbyawicksystemandcanloseoilbygravityevenwhentheyareidle.

THESTITCHESANDTHEIRUSES

CREATINGTHEPERFECTSTITCH

Thetensioncontrolsonasergerareactuallystitchselectors.Eachthreadhasitsowntensioncontrol.Changingoneormoretensionsettingsaffectsthecharacterofthestitch,becauseitchangeshowthethreadslooptogether.Withtensionadjustments,thesergercanstitchawiderangeofthreads,fabrics,seams,hems,anddecorativetreatments.

Agoodwaytobecomecomfortablewithsergertensionadjustmentsistothreadeachlooperandneedlewithacontrastingthreadcolor.Copythecolorcodeusedforthemachine’sthreadingdiagram.Makeseveralstitchsamples,tighteningandlooseningthetensionsinsequence.Youwillseetheeffectofeachtensionadjustmentandlearnhowtousethetensioncontrolstocreateabalancedstitch.Mostofthestitchsamplesshownbelowandoppositeweremadeona3-threadserger;stitchsamplesmadeonothermodelslooksimilarandareadjustedinthesameway.

CorrectlyBalancedTensions

3-threadstitchisformedbytwoloopersandoneneedle.Upper(orange)andlower(yellow)looperthreadsformneat,smoothchainatrawedge.Needlethread(green)formsflatstitcheswithoutpuckers.

4/3-threadstitchisformedbytwoloopersandtwoneedles.Upper(orange)andlower(yellow)looperthreadschainneatlyatrawedge.Bothneedlethreads(blue,green)formflatstitchesthatinterlockwithlooperthreads.

4/2-threadstitchmakesdoublerowofstitcheswithtwoloopersandtwoneedles.Leftneedlethread(blue)interlockswithlowerlooperthread(yellow)tomakeneat,puckerfreechainstitch.Upperlooperthread(orange)andrightneedlethread(green)interlockoverrawedge.

CommonTensionAdjustments

Upperloopertootight.Upperlooperthread(orange)pullslowerlooperthread(yellow)totopsideoffabric.Loosenupperloopertensionsothreadsinterlockatrawedge.

Lowerloopertooloose.Lowerlooperthread(yellow)rideslooselyontopoffabric.Tightenlowerloopertensionuntilstitcheslieflatandsmoothonfabric.

Upperloopertooloose.Upperlooperthread(orange)interlockswithlowerlooperthread(yellow)underneathfabric.Tightenupperloopertensionsothreadsinterlockatrawedge.

Lowerloopertootight.Lowerlooperthread(yellow)pullsupperlooperthread(orange),causingstitchestointerlockunderfabric.Loosenlowerloopertensionsothreadsinterlockatrawedge.

Upperandlowerlooperstootight.Fabricbunchesandpuckerswithinstitches.Loosenupperandlowertensionsuntilfabricrelaxes.

Upperandlowerlooperstooloose.Lower(yellow)andupper(orange)looperthreadsinterlockbeyondrawedgeandformlooseloops.Tightenbothloopertensionssostitcheshugrawedge.

Needletootight.Fabricpuckersordrawsuplengthwisewhenneedlethread(green)istootight .Loosenneedletensionuntilfabricrelaxes.Testknitsforthreadbreakage,looseningneedlethreadifnecessary.On4/3-threadmachine ,adjusteachneedlethread(blue,green)individually.

Needletooloose.Needlethread(green)formslooseloopsunderneathfabric .Tightenneedletensionforflat,smoothstitches.On4/3-threadserger ,adjusteachneedlethread(blue,green)individually.

SergerBasics

Tobeginstitching,runthesergerwithoutfabricunderthepresserfoottocreateachainofstitchesabout2"(5cm)long.Athreadchainatthestartandendofseamspreventsstitchesfromraveling.Operatingasergerwithoutfabricdoesnotdamagethemachineorbreakthreads,becausestitchesareformedonthestitchfingers(prongs).

Thethroatplateonmostsergershasone ortwo stitchfingers.Stitchesareformedaroundthestitchfingersothat,withthecorrecttension,thewidthofthestitchfingerdeterminesthewidthofthestitch.

Aspecialthroatplatewithanarrowstitchfinger isusedtosewarolledhemorseam.

Thepresserfootmayalsocontainastitchfinger .Machineswiththistypeofpresserfootuseaspecialpresserfootforarolledhemorseam.

HowtoChangeThread

Cuteachthreadnearcone,andremovecone.Tienewthreadontoeachthreadinmachine,usingsmalloverhandknot.Clipthreadends½"(1.3cm)fromknot.

Releasetensions,orsettensioncontrolson0.Cutneedlethreadinfrontofneedle.Pullontailchaintoseparatethreads.

Pullthreadsoneatatimethroughthreadguides,upperlooper,andlowerlooper.Pullneedlethreaduntilknotreachesneedleeye.Cutoffknot;threadneedlewithtweezers.

HowtoCleartheStitchFingers

Raisepresserfoot.Turnflywheeltoraiseneedle.Placelefthandonthreadchainbehindpresserfoot.Toslackenneedlethread,pullitgentlyabovelastthreadguidebeforeneedle.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowdetail.)

Pullstraightbackonthreadchainbehindpresserfootuntilthreadsseparateandstitchfingers(prongs)ofthroatplateorpresserfootareempty.

HowtoStartaSeam

Makethreadchain.Stitchseamforoneortwostitches.Raisepresserfoot;turnflywheeltoliftneedle.Clearstitchfingers.Runyourfingersalongthreadchaintomakeitsmooth.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowdetail.) Bringthreadchaintotheleft,aroundandunderpresserfoot.Placethreadchainbetweenneedleandknife.Holdthreadchaininposition,andlowerpresserfoot.

Stitchseamoverthreadchainforabout1"(2.5cm);thenswingthreadchaintotherightsoitistrimmedoffasyoucontinuetostitchseam.

HowtoEndaSeam

Stitchpastendofseambyonestitch,andstop.Raisepresserfootandneedletoclearstitchfingers.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowdetail.) Turnseamover,androtateittoalignedgeofseamwithedgeofknife.Lowerpresserfoot.Turnflywheeltoinsertneedleatendofseamandatleftofedgethewidthofstitch.

Stitchoverpreviousstitchesforabout1"(2.5cm).Stitchoffedge,leavingthreadchain.Withscissorsorsergerknife,trimthreadchainclosetoedgeofseam.

HowtoStitchInsideCornersandSlits

Finishseamsofinsidecornersbyaligningrawedgeoffabricwithknifeofserger.Stitch,stoppingbeforecorner.

Foldthefabrictothelefttostraightenedge.Thismaycreateatuck,whichwillnotbestitched.

Resumestitching,holdingfabricinstraightline.Oncepastcorner,fabriccanberelaxed.

HowtoStitchCurvedEdges

Begincuttingatanangle,untilyoureachthedesiredcuttingorstitchingline.

Guidefabricinfrontofpresserfootsoknivestrimrawedgetocurvedshape.Whilestitching,watchknife,notneedle.

Stopwhenstitchesoverlappreviousstitches.Liftpresserfoot.Shiftfabricsoitisbehindneedle;stitchoffedgetopreventgradualloopingoveredgeoffabric.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowneedleposition.)

HowtoStitchOutsideCorners

Trimoffseamallowancepastcornerforabout2"(5cm).Ifmakingnapkins,placemats,orsimilarprojects,youcancutfabrictofinishedsizeandomitthisstep.

Sewonestitchpastendofthecorner,andstop.Raisepresserfootandneedletoclearstitchfingersandslackenneedlethreadslightly.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowneedleposition.)

Pivotfabrictoalignrawedgeoftrimmedseamallowancewithknife.Insertneedleatsergededge.Lowerpresserfoot,andcontinuestitching.

HowtoRemoveStitches

2-threadstitch.Cutthreadsbyslidingseamripperorbladeofscissorsunderthestitches.Removecutthreads.

3-threador4/3-threadstitch.Clipneedlethreadseverythreeorfourstitches,workingfromupperside.Pullbothlooperthreadsstraightoutatedge.Removecutthreads.

4/2-threadstitch.Workingfromunderside,pullonlooperthreadtoremovechainstitching.Removeoveredgingasdescribedfor2-threadstitch,left.

EssentialEquipmentandSupplies

Basicsewingisdividedintofiveprocesses:measuring,cutting,marking,stitchingbyhandormachine,andpressing.Foreachofthesetasks,thereareessentialtoolstomakethestepseasierandtheresultssuperior.Buildanequipmentinventoryasyouaddtoyoursewingskills.

Sewing-MachineNeedles

Selectneedlesizeandtypeaccordingtofabrictypeandweightandthekindofstitchingyouwillbedoing.Forgeneralconstruction,usesharp

points forwovenandnonwovenfabrics,ballpoints forknits.Theseareusuallydistinguishedbythecoloroftheshaft.Universal

points canbeusedformanyfabrictypes,knittedandwoven,andtheyarealsoavailablewithaslip-inthreadslotforsewerswithpoor

vision.Thereareneedlesdesignedspecificallyforsewingleather and

denim .Fordecorativesewing,useneedlesdesignedfortopstitching

,embroidery ,metallicthreads ,andquilting .Twinand

tripleneedles ,availableindifferentsizesandwidthsofseparation,areusedforstitchingtwoorthreeparallelrowsatatime.Hemstitching,

orwing,needles areusedforheirloomembroidery.Multipleandhemstitchneedlescanonlybeusedonzigzagmachinesthathavewideneedleholesinthethroatplate.

HandSewingEquipment

Needlesandpinsareavailableinavarietyofsizesandstylesfordifferentuses.Lookforrustproofneedlesandpinsmadeofbrass,nickelplatedsteel,orstainlesssteel.Pinswithcoloredballheadsratherthanflatheadsareeasiertoseeinfabricandlesslikelytogetlost.

Sharpsareall-purpose,medium-lengthneedlesusedforgeneralsewing.

Crewelsaregenerallyusedforembroidery.Theyaresharpandofmediumlength.

Ballpointneedlesareusedonknits.Insteadofasharppointwhichmaypiercethefabric,theroundedendpushestheknitloopsapart.

Betweensareveryshortandround-eyed.Theyareusedtohelpmakefinestitchesorforquilting.

Milliner’sneedlesarelongwithroundeyes,usedformakinglongbastingorgatheringstitches.

Silkpinsareusedforlight-tomedium-weightfabrics.Size17is(2.6cm)long;size20is1¼"(3.2cm).Botharealsoavailablewithglassorplasticheads.Extrafine1¾"(4.5cm)silkpinsareeasiertoseeinfabricbecauseoftheirlength.

Straightpinsinbrass,steel,orstainlesssteelareusedforgeneralsewing.Theyareusually (2.6cm)long.

Pleatingpinsareonly1"(2.5cm)long,forpinningdelicatefabricsintheseamallowance.

Quiltingpinsare1¾"(4.5cm)long,usedforheavymaterialsbecauseoftheirlength.

Ballpointpinsareusedforknits.

Thimbleprotectsyourmiddlefingerwhilehandsewing.Itisavailableinsizes6(small)to12(large)forindividual,snugfit.

Pincushionprovidesasafeplacetostorepins.Somepincushionshaveanemerypack(anabrasivematerial)attachedforcleaningpins

andneedles.Awristpincushion keepspinshandy.

Needlethreadereasesthreadingofhandormachineneedles.

Beeswaxwithholderstrengthensthreadandpreventstanglingforhandsewing.

MarkingTools

Thesymbolsonapatternpieceareguidesfortheaccurateconstructionofthegarment.Transferringthesesymbolsfrompatterntofabricisessentialtofittingandsewing.Becauseyouwillbeworkingwithseveraltypesoffabrics,youwillneedavarietyofmarkingtools.

Tracingwheelscomeintwotypes:serratedorsmoothedge.Theserratededgemakesadottedlinemarking.Itissuitableformostfabricsbutmaypiercedelicateones.Thesmooth-edgetracingwheelprotectsdelicate,smoothfabricssuchassilkandchiffon.Itmakesasolidlinemarking.

Dressmaker’stracingpapertransfersthetracingwheel’slinetothefabric.Chooseacolorclosetothatofthefabric,makingsureitcanbeseeneasily.

Tailor’schalkormarkingpencilmarksquicklyandeasily,directlyonthefabric.Chalkrubsoffquickly,souseitonlywhenyouplantosew

immediately.Atailortacker holdstwopiecesofchalkandmarksfrombothsides.

Liquidmarkingpensmakequickworkofmarkingtucks,darts,pleats,andpockets.Onetypedisappearswithin48hours.Theotherwashesoffwithwaterbutshouldnotbeusedonfabricsthatshowwatermarks.Pressingmaysetthemarkspermanently,soremovemarkingbeforepressingthearea.

MeasuringTools

Bodyandpatternmeasurementsbothrequiremeasuringtools.Toensureagoodfit,measureoftenandaccuratelywiththebesttoolforthejob.

Yardstickisforgeneralmarkingandformeasuringfabricgrainlinewhenlayingoutthepattern.Itshouldbemadeofsmoothhardwoodormetal.

See-throughrulerletsyouseewhatyoumeasureormark.Thisrulerisusedtocheckfabricgrainlineandtomarkbuttonholes,tucks,andpleats.

Tapemeasurehastheflexibilityrequiredtotakebodymeasurements.Selecta60"(150cm)longtapewithmetaltips,madeofamaterialthatwillnotstretch.Itshouldbereversible,withnumbersandmarkingsprintedonbothsides.

Rulerisforgeneralmarking.Themostusefulsizesare12"or18"(30.5or46cm)long.

Seamgaugehelpsmakequick,accuratemeasurementsforhems,buttonholes,andpleats.Itisasmall,6"(15cm)metalorplasticrulerwithaslidingmarker.

See-throughT-squareisusedtolocatecrossgrains,alterpatterns,andsquareoffstraightedges.

CuttingTools

Buyqualitycuttingtoolsandkeepthemattheirbestwithperiodicsharpeningbyaqualifiedprofessional.Scissorshavebothhandlesthesamesize;shearshaveonehandlelargerthantheother.Bladesshouldbejoinedwithanadjustablescrew(notarivet)toensureevenpressurealongthelengthoftheblade.Sharpshearsmakecleancutsandwell-definednotches.Moreimportant,theydonotdamagefabric.Dullshearsslowthecuttingprocess,andmakeyourhandandwristtireeasily.Sewingshearsshouldnotbeusedforotherhouseholdtaskssuchascuttingpaperortwine.Occasionallyputadropofoilonthescrewassembly,wipethemcleanwithasoftdryclothafteruse,andstoretheminaboxorpouch.

Bent-handleddressmaker’sshearsarebestforpatterncuttingbecausetheangleofthelowerbladeletsfabriclieflatonthecuttingsurface.Bladelengthsof7"or8"(18or20.5cm)aremostpopular,butlengthsupto12"(30.5cm)areavailable.Selectabladelengthappropriatetothesizeofyourhand.Left-handedmodelsarealsoavailable.Ifyousewagreatdeal,investinapairofall-steel,chrome-platedshearsforheavy-dutycutting.Thelightermodelswithstainlesssteelbladesandplastichandlesarefineforless-frequentsewingorlightweightfabrics.

Sewingscissors haveonepointedandoneroundedtipfortrimmingandclippingseamsandfacings.The6"(15cm)bladeismostpractical.

Embroideryscissors have4"or5"(10or12.5cm)finelytaperedblades.Bothpointsaresharpforuseinhandworkandprecisioncutting.

Seamripperquicklyripsseams,opensbuttonholes,andremovesstitches.Usecarefullytoavoidpiercingthefabric.

Threadclipperwithspring-actionbladesismoreconvenientthanshearsandsaferthanaseamripper.

Pinkingshearsorscallopingshearscutazigzagorscallopededgeinsteadofastraightone.Usedtofinishseamsandrawedgesonmanytypesoffabric,theycutaravel-resistantedge.

Rotarycutterworkslikeapizzacutterandcanbeusedbyleftorright-handedsewers.Usetherotarycutterwithaspecialplasticmatavailableindifferentsizes.Thematprotectsboththecuttingsurfaceand

theblade.Aspeciallockingmechanismretractsthebladeforsafety.

PressingTools

Pressingasyousewisoneimportantprocedurethatisoftenneglected.

Itmayseemlikeaneedlessinterruption,butpressingateachstageofconstructionisthesecrettoaperfectlyfinishedgarment.

Ifyouneedhelpgettingintothepressinghabit,locateyourpressingequipmentnearyoursewingarea.Italsohelpstopressinbatches.Dothisbystitchingasmuchaspossibleatthemachine.Thenpressallthestitchedareasatonetime.

Pressingdoesnotmeanironing.Inironing,youglidetheironoverthefabric.Inpressing,youmovetheironverylittlewhileitisincontactwiththefabric.Useminimumpressureontheiron,andpressinthedirectionofthefabricgrain.Lifttheirontomovetoanothersection.

Yourpatterndirectionsusuallytellwhentopress,butthegeneralruleis:Presseachstitchedseambeforecrossingwithanother.Pressonthewrongsidetopreventironshine,andprotecttheiron’ssoleplatebyremovingpinsbeforepressing.

Steam/sprayironshouldhaveawidetemperaturerangetoaccommodateallfabrics.Buyadependable,name-brandiron.Anironthatsteamsandspraysatanysetting,notjustthehigherheatsettings,ishelpfulforsyntheticfabrics.

Tailor’shamorpressingmittisusedwhenpressingshapedareassuch

ascurvedseams,darts,collars,orsleevecaps.Theham isafirmlypackedcushionwithroundedcurves.Onesideiscotton;theothersideis

coveredwithwooltoretainmoresteam.Themitt issimilartothehambutisespeciallyhandyforsmall,hard-to-reachareas.Itfitsoveryourhandorasleeveboard.

Pressclothhelpspreventironshineandisalwaysusedwhenapplyingfusibleinterfacing.Thetransparentvarietyallowsyoutoseeifthefabricissmoothandtheinterfacingproperlyaligned.

Sleeveboardlooksliketwosmallironingboardsattachedoneontopoftheother.Itisusedwhenpressingseamsanddetailsofsmallornarrowareassuchassleeves,pantslegs,ornecklines.

Pointpresser/clapperismadeofhardwoodandusedforpressingseamsopenincornersandpoints.Theclapperflattensseamsbyholdingsteamandheatinthefabric.Thistoolisusedintailoringtoachieveaflatfinishandsharpedgesonhardsurfacedfabrics.

Seamrollisafirmlypackedcylindricalcushionforpressingseams.Thebulkofthefabricfallstothesidesandnevertouchestheiron,preventingtheseamfrommakinganimprintontherightsideofthe

fabric.

SPECIALEQUIPMENT

Manykindsofspecialequipmentaredesignedtosavetimeinlayout,construction,andpressing.Themoreyousew,themoretheseaidswillbecomenecessities.Justasyouwouldinvestintimesavingdevicesforcookingandcleaning,investinsewingequipmenttomakeyourwardrobeandhomedecoratingprojectsgofaster.

Beforeusinganewproduct,readallinstructionscarefully.Learnwhatspecialhandlingorcareisrequired,andwhatfabricsortechniquesitissuitedfor.Hereisanoverviewofsomeofthesespecializedsewingproducts.

Table-topironingboardisportableandsavesspace.Itiseasytosetupnearyoursewingmachine.Thisironingboardkeepslargepiecesoffabriconthetablesotheydonotstretchoutordragonthefloor.Italsohelpscultivatethehabitofdetailpressingwhileyousew.

Needlegripperlockstighttoholdtheneedle,allowingneedletobepulledthroughheavyfabric.

Gluesubstitutesforpinningorbastingbyholdingfabric,leather,vinyl,felt,trims,patchpockets,andzippersinplaceforpermanentstitching.Useitforcraftworkaswellasgeneralsewing.Gluestickiswatersoluble,soitprovidesonlyatemporarybond.Liquidgluecanbedottedinseamallowancestoholdlayersoffabrictogether.

Liquidravelpreventerisacolorlessplasticliquidwhichpreventsfrayingbystiffeningfabricslightly.Itishelpfulwhenyouhaveclippedtoofarintoaseamallowanceorwanttoreinforceapocketorbuttonhole.Itdarkenslightcolorsslightly,soapplycautiously.Theliquidbecomesapermanentfinishthatwillwithstandlaunderinganddrycleaning.

Bastingtapeisdouble-facedadhesivetapethateliminatespinningandthreadbasting.Useitonleatherandvinylaswellasonfabric.Thetapeisespeciallyhelpfulformatchingstripesandplaids,applyingzippers,andpositioningpocketsandtrims.Donotmachinestitchthroughthetape,becausetheadhesivemayfoulyourmachineneedle.

Loopturnerisspeciallydesignedwithalatchhookdeviceatoneendtograspbiastubingorcordingandturnittotherightside.Itisquickerandeasierthanattachingasafetypintooneendandworkingthepinthrough.Becausethewireissofine,itcanbeusedforverynarrowtubingandbuttonloops.

Bodkinthreadsribbon,elastic,orcordthroughacasingwithouttwisting.Somebodkinshaveaneyethroughwhichribbonorelasticisthreaded;othershaveatweezerorsafetypinclosurethatgrabstheelastic.Thebodkinabovehasaringthatslidestotightentheprongsofthepincers.

Pointturnerpokesoutthetailoredpointsincollars,lapels,andpocketswithoutriskingatear.Madeofwoodorplastic,itspointfitsneatlyintocorners.Usethepointtoremovebastingthreadandtheroundedendtoholdseamlinesopenforpressing.

Buttonholecuttermakesprecisioncutsdownthecenterofbuttonholes.Itcomeswithawoodenblocktoplaceunderthefabric,toprotectyourworksurfaceandacceptthesharpthinbladeofthecutter.Abuttonholecutterismoreaccuratethanscissorsoraseamripperandlesslikelytocutthestitches.

Paper-backedfusiblewebissoldonrolls,invariousnarrowwidths.Itisatimesavingproductusedforadheringtwopiecesoffabrictogether.Aprotectivepaperbackingisremovedfromonesideaftertheothersidehasbeenheatfusedtothefabric.

Foldingcuttingboardprotectsafinetable’sfinishfrompinorshearsscratches.Italsopreventsfabricfromslippingwhilecutting,andholdsfabricmoresecurely.Stickpinsintoitforfasterpinning,squareofffabricagainstmarkedlines,andusethe1"(2.5cm)squaresasaninstantmeasure.Thefoldingfeaturemakesstorageeasy.

Weightsholdapatterninplaceforcutting.Theyeliminatetime-consumingpinningandunpinningofthepatternandprotectfabricsthatwouldbepermanentlymarkedbypins.Weightsaremosteasilyusedonsmallerpatternpieces.Somesewersuseitemslikecansofvegetablesinplaceofretailweights.

Magneticpincatcherandpincushionkeepall-steelpinsintheirplace.Thepincatcherattachestothethroatplateofthemachinetocatchpinsasyoupullthemoutwhilestitching.Themagnetic,weightedpincushionisespeciallyhandyforpickingpinsoffthefloor.Ifyouhaveacomputerizedmachine,avoidplacingthemagneticpincatcherorcushiononthemachine.

NOTIONS

Thread

Threadcomeswrappedonshortthickspools,longthinspools,orcones.Readthelabelscarefullytofindfibercontentandthreadweight.Selecthigh-qualitythreadaccordingtothefiberandweightofthefabricandthepurposeofthestitching.Asageneralguideline,useanaturalfiberthreadfornaturalfiberfabricsandsyntheticfiberthreadforsyntheticfabrics.Forperfecttension,usethesamesizeandtypethreadinthebobbinasyouuseintheneedle.

Finethreadreducesfabricpuckeringonlightweightfabrics.All-purposethreadmaybe100%polyesterorhaveapolyestercorewrappedwithcotton.Bothkindsaredesignedforhandandmachinesewingonallfabrics:naturalfibersandsynthetics,wovens,andknits.Heavythread,designedformachinestitchingondenimandcanvas,isusually100%polyesterforstrength.Itcanalsobeusedfortopstitchingtomakethestitchesmoreapparent.Buttonandcarpetthreadissuitableforhandsewingwhereextrastrengthisrequired.Itcanalsobeusedfortopstitching.

Sergerthreadiswrappedonlargeconesandisusually100%polyester.Tousethisthreadonyourconventionalmachine,placetheconeinajarbehindthemachineascloseaspossibletothefirstthreadguide.

Polyesterthreadisthestrongest,longestlasting,givenequalweight.Itissuitableformostgeneralsewingonmediumtoheavyfabrics,butavoidusingitonlightweightanddelicatefabrics.Whenseamsarestressed,polyesterthreadcanteardelicatefibers.Silkthreadisslightlyelasticandhasahighsheen,suitableformachineembroidery.Itisagoodchoiceforsewingonfinewoolorforhandappliquéandhemmingbecausethestitchessinkintothefabricandtendtodisappear.Avoidbleach,whichweakenssilkthread.Mercerizedcottonthreadisusedfornaturalfiberwovenfabricslikecotton,linen,andwool;itdoesnothaveenoughstretchforknits.

TrimsandTapes

Choosetrimsandtapesthatarecompatiblewithyourfabricandthread.Mosttrimsandtapescanbemachinestitched,butsomemustbeappliedbyhand.Preshrinktrimsforwashablegarments.

Single-foldbiastape,availablein¼",½",and7/8"(6mm,1.3cm,and2.2cm)widths,comesinawiderangeofsolidcolors.Thenarrowwidthisusedfor“windowpane”quilts.Themediumandwidetapesareusedforcasings,trim,andfacings.

Double-foldbiastapebindsarawedge.Itcomesin¼"(6mm)and½"(1.3cm)foldedwidths.

Laceseambindingisadecorative,flexiblelacehemfinish.

Seamtapeis100%polyester,½"(1.3cm)wide,usedtostayseamsandfinishhems.

Twilltapeisusedtostayseamsorrolllines.Itcanalsobeusedfordrawstringsorties.Twilltapeisavailableinvariouswidthsfrom¼"to1"(6mmto2.5cm)inblack,white,andlimitedcolors.

Cordedpipingisanaccenttriminsertedinseamstodefineanddecorateedges.

Braidisavailableinsoutacheandmiddystyles.Useitforaccent,scrollmotifs,drawstrings,ties,orbuttonloops.

Rickrackcomesin¼",½",and5/8"(6mm,1.3cm,and1.5cm)widthsforaccenttrimandedging.

Elasticisinsertedincasingstoshapewaistbands,wrists,andnecklines.Knittedandwovenelasticsaresofterthanbraidedelastics,curlless,andcanbestitcheddirectlyontothefabric.Nonrollwaistbandelastichaslateralribstokeepitfromtwistingorrolling.Clearelastic,

madeof100%polyurethane,isgreatforsheerfabrics,lingerie,andswimwear.

ButtonsandClosures

Selectthesenotionseithertoblendwiththegarmentorstandoutandmakeafashionstatement.Closurescanbedecorativeaswellasfunctional.

Sew-through,two-holeorfour-holebuttonsarecommonlyused,all-purposebuttons.

Shankbuttonshavea“neck”orshankunderneaththebutton.

Self-coveredbuttonscanbecoveredwiththesamefabricasthegarmentforanexactcolormatch.

Togglesarebarfastenersclosedwithfabricorcordloops,usedonlappedareas.

Frogsareloop-and-ballfastenersthatlendadressylooktospecialoutfits.

Snapsareinsideclosuresforareasthatdonotreceivemuchstress,suchascuffs.

Grippersnapsarehammeredonorappliedwithatoolontheoutsideofagarmentforadecorativeeffect.

Hooksandeyesareinsideclosuresavailableinsizesappropriatetovariousfabricweights.

Heavy-dutyhooksandeyesareusedtoclosewaistbandsonskirtsorpants.

Hookandloopfasteners(Velcro)areavailableintapesandsmallpieces.Theyareusedforclosuresonlappedareasofgarmentsorhomedécoritems.

Snaptapeisoftenusedonlegseamsofinfantclothesforeasydiaper

changes.Itisalsousefulforclosuresoncasualclothingandhomedécoritems.

Zippers

Zippershavemetalorplasticteeth,orasyntheticcoilattachedtoawoventape.Bothtypescomeinall-purposeweights.Coilzippersarelightweight,flexible,heat-resistant,andrustproof.Metalzipperscomeinheavierweightsforheavyfabricsandsportswear.Althoughzippersareusuallydesignedtoblendintothegarment,somearemadetobeshownoff.

Polyesterall-purposezippersaresuitableforfabricsofallweightsinskirts,pants,dresses,andhomedecoratingitems.

Metalall-purposezippersarestrong,durablezippersforsportswearaswellaspants,skirts,dresses,andhomedecoratingitems.

Brassjeanzippershavebrassteethonbluetapeswithaclosedbottom,designedforjeans,work,andcasualwearinmediumtoheavyweightfabrics.

Invisiblezippersareinsertedusingaspecialfootdesignedbythezippermanufacturer.Onceinstalled,thezipperishiddenintheseamandonlytheslimtabshows.

Metalseparatingzippers,availableinmediumandheavyweights,areusedinjackets,sportswear,andhomedecorating.Reversibleseparatingzippershavepulltabsthatfliptothefrontandbackofthezipper.

Plasticmoldedseparatingzippersarelightweightyetstronganddurable.Theirdecorativeappearancemakesthemanaturalforskiwearandoutdoorwear.Two-wayzippershavetwosliders,sotheycanbeopenedfromthetopandbottom.

Coilseparatingzippersaredesignedforsweatersandlightweightjackets.

ThePattern

Shoppingapatterncatalogismorecreativethanshoppingaready-to-wearcatalog.Inapatterncatalog,youaren’tlimitedtothefabric,color,skirtlength,orbuttonsyouseeonthepages.Youarethedesignerofyourownfashion.Youcanchoosethecombinationthatflattersyouandexpressesyourownpersonalstyle.

Patternselectionhasneverbeenbetter.Designerstylesareavailableinthesameseasonthattheyappearinready-to-wear.Thereareeasypatternsforthesewerwithlimitedtime.Youwillfindpatternsforaccessories,homedecoration,eveningwear,men’sandboys’fashions,andalmosteverykindofwomen’sorchildren’sgarment.

Thepatterncatalogisdividedintocategoriesbysizeorfashionlook.Thenewestfashionsusuallyappearinthefirstfewpagesofeachcategory.Patternillustrationsareaccompaniedbyinformationonrecommendedfabricsandyardagerequirements.Anindexatthebackofthecataloglistspatternsinnumericalorderalongwiththeirpagenumbers.Thebackofthecatalogalsoincludesacompletesizechartforeveryfiguretype:male,female,children,andinfants.

Matchthepattern’slevelofsewingdifficultytoyoursewingexperience.Forsuccess,selectapatternappropriatetoyoursewingskill.Ifyourtimeorpatienceislimited,staywithsimplerstyles.

Thenumberofpatternpieceslistedonthebackofthepatternisacluetothecomplexityofthepattern.Thefewerthepieces,theeasierthepattern.Detailslikeshirtcuffs,collarbands,pleats,andtucksalsomakeapatternmoredifficulttosew.Easy-to-sewpatternsfeaturefewofthese

details.

Allpatterncompaniesfollowauniformsizingbasedonstandardbodymeasurements.Thisisnotexactlythesameasready-to-wearsizing.Toselecttherightpatternsize,firsttakeyourstandardbodymeasurements.Wearyourusualundergarmentsanduseatapemeasurethatdoesn’tstretch.Foraccuracy,haveanotherpersonmeasureyou.Recordyourmeasurementsandcomparethemwiththesizechartprovidedinthepatterncatalog.

HowtoTakeStandardBodyMeasurements

Waistline.Tieastringorpieceofelasticaroundyourmiddleandallowittorolltoyournaturalwaistline.Measureatthisexactlocationwithtapemeasure.Leavestringinplaceasareferenceformeasuringhipsandbackwaistlength.

Hips.Measurearoundthefullestpart.Thisisusually7"to9"(18to23cm)belowthewaistline,dependingonyourheight.

Highbust.Placetapemeasureunderarms,acrosswidestpartofbackandabovefullbustline.Patternsizechartsdonotincludeahighbustmeasurement,butthismeasurementshouldbecomparedwiththefullbusttochoosetherightsizepattern.

Fullbust.Placetapemeasureunderarms,acrosswidestpartofthebackandfullestpartofbustline.Note:Ifthereisadifferenceof2"(5cm)ormorebetweenhighandfullbust,selectpatternsizebyhighbustmeasurement.

Backwaistlength.Measurefrommiddleofthemostprominentboneatthebaseoftheneckdowntowaistlinestring.

Height.Measurewithoutshoes.Standwithyourbackagainstawall.Placearulerontopofyourheadandmarkthewall.Measurefromthemarktothefloor.

THEPATTERNENVELOPE

Thepatternenvelopecontainsawealthofinformation,fromadescriptionofthegarmenttotheamountoffabricneeded.Itgivesideasforfabricandcolorselection.Theenvelopehelpsyoudeterminethedegreeofsewingdifficultywithlabelsthatindicatewhetherthestyleisadesigneroriginal,easy-to-seworonlysuitableforcertainfabrics.Onthepatternenvelope,you’llalsofindalltheinformationneededtoselectfabricandnotions.

TheEnvelopeFront

Viewsarealternatedesignsofthepattern.Theymayshowoptionaltrims,lengths,fabriccombinationsordesigndetailstoappealtoabeginner,orchallengeanexperiencedsewer.

Patterncompanynameandstylenumberareprominentlydisplayedonthepatternenvelope.

Fashionphotographorillustrationshowsthemainpatterndesign.Itsuggestssuitablefabrictypessuchaswoolorcotton,andfabricdesignssuchasprintorplaid.Ifyouareunsureofyourfabricchoice,usethepatternillustrationasyourguide.Itisthedesigner’sinterpretationofthefashion.

Designeroriginalpatterns,indicatedbythedesigner’sname,oftencontainmoredifficult-to-sewdetailssuchastucks,topstitching,linings,orunderlinings.Forsewerswhohavethetimeandskill,thesepatternsprovidedesignerfashionsthatduplicateready-to-wear.

Labelsmayidentifyapatternthathaseasyconstructionmethods,isdesignedfortimesavingsewing,hasspecialfittingorsize-relatedinformation,orshowshowtohandlefabricslikeplaids,knits,orlace.Eachpatterncompanyhasspecialcategoriesandnamesforthesedesigns.

Sizeandfiguretypeareindicatedatthetoporsideofthepattern.Ifthepatternismulti-sized,suchas8–10–12,youwillfindcuttinglinesforallthreesizesononepattern.

TheEnvelopeBack

Bodymeasurementandsizechartisareferencetodetermineifyouneedtomakealterations.Foramulti-sizedpattern,compareyourmeasurementswiththoseinthecharttodecidewhichcuttinglinetouse.

Garmentdescriptionsincludeinformationonstyle,fit,andhowthegarmentisconstructed.

Stylenumberisrepeatedonthebackoftheenvelope.

Yardageblocktellsyouhowmuchfabrictobuyforthesizeandgarmentviewyouhaveselected.Yardageforlining,interfacing,andtrimsisalsolisted.Todeterminehowmuchfabricyouneed,matchthegarmentorviewandthefabricwidthattheleftwithyoursizeatthetopofthechart.Thenumberwherethetwocolumnsmeetisthenumberofyardstobuy.Themostcommonfabricwidthsaregiven.Ifthewidthofyourfabricisnotgiven,checktheconversionchartatthebackofthepatterncatalog.Somepatternslisttheextrayardagerequiredfornappedfabricsorunevenplaids.

Metricequivalentsofbodymeasurementsandyardageareincludedforcountriesthatusethemetricsystem.

Fabrictypessuitableforthegarmentsaresuggested.Usethemasageneralguidetofabricselection.Thespecialadvice,suchas“unsuitableforstripesorobviousdiagonals,”alertsyoutofabricsthatarenotappropriate.

Finishedgarmentmeasurementsindicatefinishedlengthandwidth.Youmayneedtomakelengthadjustments.The“widthatloweredge”isthemeasurementatthehemmededge,indicatingthefullnessofthegarment.

Notions,suchasthread,zipper,buttons,andseambinding,whicharerequiredforgarmentconstructionarelisted.Purchasethematthesametimeasthefabrictoensureagoodcolormatch.

Backviewsshowthedetailsandstyleofthegarments’back.

Numberofpatternpiecesgivesanideaofhoweasyorcomplicatedthepatternistosew.

INSIDETHEPATTERN

Openthepatternenvelopetofindtheprintedpatternpiecesandthedirectionsheetwhichguidesyou,step-by-step,throughtheconstructionofthegarment.Readthroughthedirectionsheetbeforecuttingorsewing.Useittoplanandorganizeyoursewingtime,andalertyoutothetechniquesyouneedtoknowasyouprogress.

Viewsofasinglegarmentarelabeledbynumberorletter.Patternswhichincludeseveraldifferentgarmentssuchasaskirt,jacket,andpants(calledwardrobepatterns)usuallyfeatureonlyoneversionofeach.Inthiscase,eachgarmentisidentifiedbynameonly.Allpatternpiecesareidentifiedwithanumberandname,suchasskirtfront.

Fashiondrawingsandviewsarefeaturedprominentlyonthedirectionsheet,sketchedastheyappearonthefrontoftheenvelopeorasdetailedlinedrawings.Somepatternsillustrateeachgarmentseparatelywiththepatternpiecesusedinitsconstruction.Mostpatternsillustrateallthepatternpiecestogether,withakeytoidentifythepiecesusedforeachgarmentorview.

Generalinstructionsaregivenasashortrefreshersewingcourse.Theseinstructionsmayhaveadifferentnameoneachpattern,buttheygenerallycontaintipsonhowtousethepattern.Includedisinformationonpatternandfabricpreparation;explanationofpatternmarkings;cutting,layout,andmarkingtips;andashortglossaryofsewingterms.Theeasy-to-sewandbeginnerpatternsoftenincorporatethesetipsintothestep-by-stepinstructions.

Cuttinglayoutsareshownforeachgarmentview.Theydifferaccordingtothewidthofthefabric,patternsize,andwhetherthefabrichasnap.Layoutsforinterfacingandliningarealsoincluded.Whenthefabricistobecutinasinglethicknessoronthecrosswisegrain,thepatternlayoutindicatesthiswithasymbol,explainedinthegeneralinstructions.Apatternpiece,rightsideup,isillustratedwithoutshading;wrongsideup,itisshadedorscored.Circlethelayoutforthecorrectpatternsize,fabricwidth,andview.

Sewingdirectionsareastep-by-stepguidetoconstructingthegarment,arrangedbyviews.Besideeachinstructionisasketchillustratingthesewingtechnique.Therightsideofthefabricusuallyappearsshaded;thewrongside,plain.Interfacingisindicatedwithdots.Together,thesketchandthedirectionsgiveyouaclearpictureofexactlywhattodo.Rememberthattheseareonlygeneraldirections.Analternativetechniquemaybemoreeffectiveforthefabricyouareusing.

ThePatternPieces

Thepatternpiecetissuemaylooklikeitisprintedwithsecretsymbolsbut,likeinternationalroadsigns,thesemarkingsareuniversalsymbolsusedbyallpatterncompanies.Patternsymbolsareusedfromthetimeyoustarttolayoutthepatternuntilyoufinishthehemorsewthelastbuttoninplace.

Patternpieceshaveinstructionsaswellassymbolsprintedonthem.Followtheseinstructionsjustascarefullyasyoufollowthoseonthedirectionsheet.

Layoutandcuttingsymbolssuchasgrainlinesdonotneedtobetransferredtothefabric.Constructionsymbolsmustbetransferredtothefabricforaccurategarmentconstruction(page81).

FabricEssentialsAllfabricsarebasedontwokindsoffibers:naturalorman-made.Naturalfibersarethosederivedfromplantsoranimals:cotton,wool,silk,andlinen.Man-madefibersareproducedbychemicalprocesses.Theyincludepolyester,nylon,acetate,spandex,andmanyothers.

Combiningnaturalandman-madefibersproducesblendswhichgiveyouthebestqualitiesofseveralfibers.Forexample,thestrengthofnylonmaybeaddedtothewarmthofwool,theeasycareofpolyestertothecomfortofcotton.

Thereisanalmostendlessvarietyofblendsavailable,andeachonebehavesdifferently.Checkthefibercontentontheboltendforthekindsandquantitiesoffibersused.Careinstructionsarealsolisted.Examinethehandofthefabric—howitfeels,howitdrapes,whetheritcrusheseasilyorravels,whetheritstretches.Drapethefabricoveryourhandorarmtodetermineifitisassoftorcrisp,heavyorlight,asyouneedforaparticularproject.

Fabricsarealsoclassifiedbyfabrication,meaninghowtheyaremade.Allfabricsareeitherwoven,knit,ornonwoven.Themostcommonwovenistheplainweaveconstruction.Thisisfoundinfabricssuchasmuslins,poplin,andtaffeta.Denimandgabardinearediagonalweaves.Cottonsateenisasatinweave.Knitsalsohaveseveralclassifications.Jerseyisanexampleofaplainknit.Sweaterknitscanbemadebythepurl,patterned,orraschelknitprocesses.Feltisanexampleofanonwovenfabric.

Selectingtherightfabricforyoursewingprojecttakesalittlepractice.Refertothebackofthepatternenvelopeforsuggestions,andlearntofeelthehandoffabric.Qualityfabricdoesn’thavetobeexpensive.Choosewell-madefabricthatwillwearwellandstaylookinggood.

Easy-to-SewFabrics

Therearemanyfabricsthatareeasyandquicktosew.Thesefabricsaregenerallyplainweaveorfirmknit,ofmediumweight.Mostdonotrequirecomplicatedseamfinishesorspecialhandling,sincetheyravelverylittle.

Smallprints,overallprints,andnarrowstripesareeasytosewbecausetheydonotrequirematchingattheseams.Prints,especiallyiftheyaredark,hidestitchingimperfections.

Plain-weavefabrics,suchaspoplinorcottonbroadcloth,arealwaysgoodchoices.Stableormoderate-stretchknitsdonotneedseamfinishing,andtheirstretchabilitymakesfittingeasier.Natural-fiberfabrics,suchascottonsandlightweightwools,areeasytosewbecausestitchingblendsintothesefabrics.

Formoreexamplesofeasy-to-sewfabrics,consultthesuggestedfabricsthatarelistedonthebacksofeasy-to-sewpatterns.

HANDLINGSPECIALFABRICS

Certainfabrics,becauseoftheirdesignorfabrication,needspecialattentionduringlayoutandconstruction.Someeasy-to-sewfabricsfallintothiscategory.Thespecialhandlingrequiredisusuallynotdifficult.Oftenyouneedonlyaddonemorestep,suchasaseamfinish,orexercisealittlemorecare.

Nappedandpilefabricssuchasvelvet,velveteen,velour,flannel,andcorduroyrequirespecialcareincuttingout.Thesefabricsappearlightandshinywhenbrushedinonelengthwisedirection,anddarkwhenbrushedintheotherdirection.Topreventyourgarmentfromhavingatwo-tonedlook,youmustfollowthe“withnap”layoutsonthepatterninstructionsheet.Decidewhichwayyouwantthenaptolie,andcutallpatternpieceswiththetopedgesfacingthesamedirection.

Althoughsatinandmoirétaffetaarenotnappedfabrics,theirsurfacesreflectlightdifferentlyineachlengthwisedirection.Decidewhicheffectyouprefer,anduseaone-waylayout.

Sheerfabricslookbestwithspecialseamsandseamfinishes.Unfinishedseamallowancesdetractfromthefragile,see-throughlookofvoile,batiste,eyelet,orchiffon.Frenchseamsareaclassicchoice,butotherseamfinishescanalsobeused.

Twillweavefabricssuchasdenimandgabardinehavediagonalridges.Iftheseridgesareverynoticeable,usea“withnap”layoutforcutting,andavoidpatternsthatarenotsuitableforobviousdiagonals.Denimravelseasilyandrequiresenclosedseams.

Plaidsandstripesrequirespecialcareinlayoutandcutting(pages76to80).Tomatchplaidsandlargestripesatseams,youneedtobuyextrafabric.Buy¼to½yd.(0.25to0.5m)morethanthepatterncallsfor,dependingonthesizeofthedesign.

Knitsmustbehandledgentlyduringconstructiontokeepthemfromstretchingoutofshape.Specialstitchesandseamfinishes(page109)are

neededtomaintaintherightamountofstretch.

One-waydesignfabrics,suchassomeflowerandpaisleyprints,requirea“withnap”cuttinglayoutsothedesigndoesnotgouponesideofthegarmentanddowntheother.Borderprintsarecutonthecrosswiseratherthanlengthwisegrainofthefabric.Theyusuallyrequiremoreyardage.Selectpatternswhichshowaborderprintviewandspecifythecorrectyardage.

GuidetoFabricsandSewingTechniques

ClassicFabricTexturesandDesignsWhetherornotyouhavehadmuchsewingexperience,thisgroupoffabricsprobablylooksfamiliarbecauseitincludesfabricsthatarealwaysinfashion.Somerequireout-of-the-ordinarysewingtechniques,andsomeneedspecialhandlingbecausetheyhaveuniquesurfacetextures.Othersrateextraattentionbecausetheyhavewoven,knitted,orprinteddesignsthataffectpatternlayout.

Looseweaveshavecoarseoruneventexturesandtendtofray.Theprimarysewingchallengewithlooselywovenfabricsistocontrolraveling.

Plaidsrequirecarefulpatternlayout.Studythefabricbeforepatternlayouttodecidewhichbarsaredominant,wheretopositionthemonthepatternpieces,andwhetherthedesignhasaone-waydirection.Arrangethepatternpiecessothefabricdesignmatchesatthemostnoticeableseams.Carefulpinningorbastingensuresagainstmismatches.

Stripesrequirehandlingsimilartothatofplaids.Carefullayoutandbastingisnecessarytomatchstripesattractively.

Largeprintsareamongthemostdramatictypesoffabricdesigns.Printrepeatscanbeaslargeas24"(61cm).Withprintsthissize,positiontheprintmotifsforpleasingbalance.

Diagonalfabricsarewoven,knitted,orprinteddesignsthatcrossthestraightfabricgrainonaslant.Tosewdiagonals,itisnecessarytoadaptpatternsforspeciallayoutssothediagonallinesflowaroundthebodyinthesamedirection.

Gabardineisafirmlywovenfabricwithatwillweave.Characteristicofthisweavearethefinediagonalribsontherightside.Thesurfaceishardandlongwearing.Thistextureneedsa“withnap”patternlayoutforuniformcolorshadinginthecompletedgarment.

Velvetissimilartovelveteenbecausethepilecoverstheentiresurface,butitismadeadifferentway.Avelvetpileisformedfromwarp(lengthwise)—yarnswovenintothebase.Thiscreatesadeep,straight,erectpile.Velvetishandledthesamewayascorduroyandvelveteen.

Velveteenismadebyshearingpileloops,butunlikecorduroy,theloopscovertheentiresurface.Velveteenrequirestechniquesforlayout,stitching,andpressingsimilartothoseforcorduroy.

Corduroyhasaribbedpile,formedbyshearedrowsofloopsorribsthatcontrastwiththeflatbaseofthefabric.Usea“withnap”layoutandsewingtechniquesthatkeepthefabricfromshiftingwhileitisbeingstitched.Specialpressingtechniquesarealsonecessary.

LOOSEWEAVES

Looselywovenfabricsareoftenmadefromyarnsthatarethickandlightlyspuntopreserveirregularitiesandcreateahand-loomedlook.Twoconsiderationsaretocontroltheravelingandtomaintainthesoft,loosehandofthefabric.

Thelooselywovenbasketweaveahastwoormoreyarnswoventogether

in basketeffect.Heavyrawsilk isravel-pronebecauseofthe

thickandthincrosswiseyarns.Gauzefabrics ,lightweightandcrinkly,shouldbehandledwithsewingtechniquesforsheerfabrics.The

homespunlook isachievedwithlightlyspunyarnsthatraveleasily.

Apulledthreadlook createsanoveltywindowpaneeffect.

PatternSelection

Chooseapatternthathasthepotentialforomittinglinings,facings,andinterfacings,aswellasclosuressuchasbuttonsandzippers.Manyjacket,blouse,andskirtpatterns,especiallypulloverorwrapstyles,canbeadaptedthisway.Thelessstablethefabric,themorelooselyfittedthepatternshouldbe.Simplestylesarethebest.Testthestabilityoflooselywovenfabricsbydrapingthefabricoveryourhandandlettingalengthhangfreely.Seehowmuchitstretchesandwhetheritdrapessoftly.Gentlytugonthetruebiasgraintogetafeelingfortheamountthefabricgivesinthisdirection.

FabricPreparation

Preshrinkalllooseweaves,usingthecaremethodplannedforthefinishedgarment.Topreventexcessiveraveling,zigzagcrosswisecutendsorbindthemwithsheerbiastricotbindingbeforewashing.Towash,treatlooseweaveslikedelicatefabrics.Airdrytopreventshrinkagefromtheheatofadryer.Rollthefabricintowelstoremoveexcessmoisture.Spreadonaflatsurface,andstraightenthegrain.

Layout,Cutting,andMarking

Itisimportanttoarrangethefabricstraightandon-grainforpatternlayout.Anywavygrainlineswillshowclearlyonthefinishedgarment.Whenthefabrictexturecomesfromnubby,irregularyarns,usea“withnap”layout.Spacepinscloselytoanchorthepatternpiecessecurelytothefabric.

Ifyouareworkingwithafabricthatfraysreadily,cutoutthepatternwith1"(2.5cm)seamallowances.Widerseamallowancesareeasiertohandleforspecialseamandedgefinishes,andtheyprovideamplefabricforcleancutsonrawedgesthatmustbetrimmed.Transferpatternmarkingswithmarkingpenorthreadbasting.

SpecialSeamTechniques

Plainseamwithrawedgesenclosedinsheertricotbiasbindingisquick,neattreatment.Usezigzag,3-stepzigzag,orlongstraightstitches,10to12perinch(2.5cm).

Flat-fellseam,formedonrightsideofgarment,makesreversibleseamwhichisidealforroll-upsleevesorotherareasshowingbothfacesofseams.

Overlockedseam,sewnon4-threadoverlockmachineor3-threadmachinewitharowofstraightstitches,coversrawedgeswiththread.

SpecialHemTechniques

Topstitchtostabilizehemedges.Thismethodisfastandattractive.Finishrawedgebeforehemming;useazigzagstitchora2-threador3-threadoverlockstitch.

Bindedgewithsheertricotbiasbinding.Handhemwithblindcatchstitchorblindhem,workedlooselybetweengarmentandhem.

Fringeedge.Pullathreadatdesireddepthoffringe.Stitchonthread-pulledline(arrow);thenonebyoneremovefabricyarnsbelowstitching.

CORDUROYANDVELVETEEN

Corduroy,madefromcottonorablendofcotton/polyesterfibers,comesinmanyforms.Corduroysareusuallynamedaccordingtothesizeandstyleoftheribs(wales).

Pinwalecorduroy,alsonamedbabywaleorfinewalecorduroy,islightweightandhas16ribsperinch(2.5cm).

Midwalecorduroyisheavierthanpinwaleandhasfewerribs.

Widewale,alsocalledjumbowale,isaheavyweightcorduroywithasfewasthreeribsperinch(2.5cm).

Thickandthincorduroyisoneofthemanynoveltyvariationswithalternatingsizesofribs.

Riblesscorduroyresemblesthealloverplushpileofvelveteen.

Traditionally,corduroyisusedforcasualsportsclothesandchildren’swearbecauseitisdurableandwashable.Selectpatternsaccordingtotheformyouwishtouse.

Theheavierthefabricandthebulkierthewales,thesimplerthepatternstyleshouldbe.Lightweightcorduroysdrapesoftlyandcanbeusedformoredetailedstyles,includingthosewithgatheredsectionsorruffles.Midweightcorduroysareoftenusedfortailoredjackets.

Velveteen,likecorduroy,maybeall-cottonoracotton/polyesterblend,butthetextureisshorterandthickerthanthatofcorduroy.Velveteenisamedium-weightfabricusedwheneverthelookofvelvetisdesired.Velveteeniseasiertosewandmoredurablethanvelvet.

FabricPreparation

Preshrinkcorduroyandvelveteentopreparethemforpatternlayout.Tumbledrytofluffupthepile.Thisisespeciallyimportantforall-cottontypes,eventhoughprewashingfadesstrongcolorsandcanmakethefabriclookwornsooner.Polyester/cottontypesshrinkless,arelesslikelytofade,andshedwrinklesbetterthanthosemadeofall-cotton.

StitchingTips

Pilefabricssuchascorduroyandvelveteentendtoshiftasyoustitch.AnEvenFeedfootorrollerfoothelpstopreventthis.Itishelpfultopinseamsatcloseintervalsandtopracticetautsewing,holdingthefabricundertensioninfrontofandbehindthepresserfoot.Stitchinthedirectionofthenaptokeepthepilefabrictexturesmooth.

Somesewingmachineadjustmentsmaybeneededforasmooth,balancedstitch.Usealongstitch,10to12perinch(2.5cm),onmostcorduroysandvelveteens.Onthick,bulkycorduroy,decreasepressureonthepresserfoot.

Therawedgesofcorduroyandvelveteenraveleasily,sofinishthemwithbindingoroverlocking.Gradeenclosedseamstoreducebulk,butdonottrimtooclosely.Enclosedrawedgescanravelunlesstopstitchedortreatedwithliquidfraypreventer.

Hembulkyorheavycorduroysandvelveteenbyhand.Orfacethehemtoreducebulk.Usepurchasedhemfacing,orcut2"(5cm)-widebiasstripsofpolyester/cottonbroadcloth.

SewingTechniquesforCorduroyandVelveteen

Decidewhichcolorshadingyoupreferbeforepatternlayout.Whennapfeelssmootherrunninguptowardtopofgarment,colorlooksdarker.Whennapfeelssmootherrunningdowntowardgarmenthem,colorlookslighterwithslightsheen.Corduroywearslongerwhennaprunsdown.

Markcutoutpatternsectionswithchalkandpinsormarkingpen;markonlyonwrongsideoffabriclayers.Donotusetracingwheelanddressmaker’scarbonpaperwithouttesting;tracingwheelcanmarplushtextures.

Pressplushtexturesgently.Placeself-fabricscrap,rightsideup,onpressingsurfaceandplacegarment,rightsidedown,ontop.Pressgentlytoavoidflatteningpile.Topreventimprintsonrightside,usepaperstripsunderseamallowances,orpressseamsopenonaseamroll.

Finishallrawedgestopreventraveling.Useazigzagstitch ,bias

binding ,oreither2-threador3-thread overlockusingextra-finethread.

Gradeenclosedseamallowancestoreducebulk.Optionaltopstitchingmaybeplacedfarenoughinfromedgetoencloserawedgesofgradedseam.Thispreventsravelingandstrengthensgarmentedges.

Hemwithcatchstitch.Bind,zigzag,oroverlockrawhemedgetopreventraveling.Workblindcatchstitchbetweenhemandgarment,usingloosestitchestopreventhemimprint.

KNITS

Aknitisafabricmadefrominterlockingloopedstitches.Becauseofthisconstruction,knitsshedwrinkleswell,arecomfortabletowear,andareeasytosewbecausetheydonotravel.Knitscanbegroupedintofivegeneralcategories.

Firm,stableknitsdonotstretchsignificantlyandarehandledsimilarly

towovenfabrics.Inthisgrouparedoubleknits ,whichhavefinelengthwiseribsonbothsides.Itisdifficulttotelltherightandwrongsideofadoubleknitunlesstherightsidehasadecorativedesign.

Raschelknit isalacyoropenknittexturethatdoesnotstretchbecauselengthwisethreadsarelockedintosomeoftheknittedloops.

Lightweightsingleknitshavefineribsrunninglengthwiseontherightsideandloopsrunningcrosswiseonthewrongside.Pullthecrosswiseedgeofasingleknitanditwillrolltotherightside.Singleknitssuchas

jersey ,tricot ,andinterlock donotstretchlengthwise,buttheydohavecrosswisegive.

Texturedknitsmaybesingleordoubleknits,whicharedistinguished

byasurfacetexture,usuallyontherightside.Knittedterry and

velour arepileknitsthatlookliketheirwovennamesakes;however,theyusuallyhaveagreatdealofcrosswisestretch.Anothertexturedknit

isthesweaterknit .Patternedsweaterknitshavefloatsonthewrongsidewherecoloredyarnsarecarriedfromonemotiftoanother.This

limitstheircrosswisestretch.Comfortablesweatshirtfleece lookslikeasingleknitontherightside;thewrongsidehasasoft,brushedsurface.Itisusuallystablewithlittlestretch.

Two-waystretchknitshaveagreatdegreeofstretchcrosswiseandlengthwiseandahighpercentageofresilientspandexfibers.Absorbent

cotton/spandexandcotton/polyester/spandexknits arefavoredforactivesportswearsuchasleotards,bodysuits,andaerobicexercise

outfits.Strongnylon/spandexknits areresilient,evenwhenwet,andareusuallyselectedforswimwear.

Ribbingisaverystretchyknitthatcanbeusedfortopsandforfinishingknitgarmentsatwrists,ankles,neck,andwaist.Onetypeistubular

ribbing ,whichissoldbytheinch(2.5cm)andmustbecutopen

alongonelengthwiseribforsewing.Anothertypeisribtrim ,whichiscolorcoordinatedwithsweaterknits;oneedgeisprefinished,andtheotherissewntothegarment.

TechniquesforKnits

Patternsforknitsdependonthestretchcharacteristicsandweightoftheknit.Thelistofsuggestedfabricsonthebackofapatternenvelopeusuallyincludesacombinationofknitandwovenfabrics.Ifaknitissoftandlightweight,suchasjersey,itissuitableforpatternsthathavegathers,draping,andsimilarfeatures.Ifitisfirm,suchasdoubleknit,apatternwithtailoringorashaped,fittedsilhouetteissuitable.Ifitisbulkyortextured,suchasasweaterknit,apatternwithfewseamsanddetailsworksbesttoshowofftheknittexture.

Certainpatterns,however,requireknitsthatstretch.Thesearecloselyfittedpatternstyles,suchasswimsuitsandleotards,whichwouldbetoosmalltowearifmadefromafabricwithoutelasticity,ortopsandpantsthatusetheknitforacomfortableclose-to-the-bodyfit.Mostpatternsdesignedforknitshaveastretchgaugeprintedonthebackoftheenvelope.Testtheknitthatyouhaveselectedagainsttherulergauge.

Whenthepatternspecifies“two-waystretchknit,”testthecrosswiseandlengthwisestretchabilityoftheknit.

Patternsdesignedforknitsoftenhave¼"(6mm)seamallowances.Ifthepatternyouhaveselectedhas5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowances,trimthemto¼"(6mm)whenusingknitsewingtechniques.

FabricPreparation

Forbestresults,preshrinkknits.Washanddrythemiftheywillbewashedaspartoftheirroutinecare.Useabulkdry-cleanerifthefinishedgarmentwillbedry-cleaned.Itisnotnecessarytopreshrinkribbingunlessusingadark-coloredribbingonalight-coloredgarment.

If,afterpreshrinking,aknitstillhasacreasewhereitwasfoldedonthebolt,steamthecrease.Ifthecreasecannotberemovedbysteaming,itispermanent.Refoldtheknitforpatternlayouttopreventthecreasefromshowingonthegarment.

Tostraightentheendsofknits,drawachalklineacrossthecutcrosswiseedgesatrightanglestotheribs.Cutthefabriconthechalkline.

HowtoUseaStretchKnitGauge

Correctknitforpatternstretcheseasilytoright-handsideofthegaugeprintedonpatternenvelope.Totest,foldcrosswiseedgeofknitover3"to4"(7.5to10cm),andtestfoldagainstgauge.Knitthatstretchesevenmorethangaugerequirementsmaystillbeusedforpattern.

Wrongknitforpatternisforcedbeyondreasonablelimitstosatisfygaugeprintedonpatternenvelope.Ribsofknitaredistorted,andstretchededgefoldsoveronitselfbecauseoftoomuchstressonfabric.Knitdoesnothaveenoughnaturalelasticityforthispatternstyle.

Pressing

Pressknitsonthelengthwiseribsbyliftingandloweringtheiron.Usealowirontemperaturesetting,andraisethetemperatureasneeded.Donotpressacrosstheribsorhandlethefabricuntilitiscompletelycooled.Eitheractioncanstretchknitsoutofshape.

Blocksweaterknitsinsteadofpressing.Toblock,patthefabricorthegarmentintoshapeonaflatsurface.Steamwithahandsteamer,orholdasteamironabovetheknitsurface.Allowthefabrictodryandcoolcompletelybeforefurtherhandling.

PatternLayout

Alwaysusea“withnap”patternlayoutonknits.Becauseofknitconstruction,theyhaveadirectionalqualitythatshowsupasadifferenceincolorshadinginthecompletedgarment.

Stretchbothcrosswiseedgesofaknitbeforepatternlayouttoseeiftheknitruns.Ifso,therunswilloccurmorereadilyalongoneedgethantheother.Whenyoulayoutthepattern,positiontherunproneedgeatthegarmenthemline.Thehemissubjecttolessstress,sotheknitwillbelesslikelytorunafterthegarmentissewn.

Whenlayingoutandcuttingaknitfabric,donotletithangofftheworksurface.Theweightofthefabriccandistorttheportionontheworksurface,pullingitoffgrain.

Onbulkyortexturedknits,itiseasiertolayoutthepatternonasinglelayeroffabric.Positionthetexturedsidedown;pinandmarkonthesmoother,wrongsideoftheknit.Useweightsinsteadofpinsonknitswithopenorlacytextures.

Interfacings

Interfaceknitsstabilizedetails,suchasbuttonholes,plackets,andpatchpockets,andtosupportshapedareassuchascollars.Selectasuppleinterfacingthatdoesnotchangethecharacteroftheknit.Twotypesofinterfacingsespeciallysuitableforknitsarefusibletricotandstretchnonwoven.

TipsforInterfacingKnits

Fusibletricotinterfacingaddssupportandbodytofashionknitswithoutaddingstiffness.Italsoallowsforsomecrosswisestretch.Usetricottostabilizedetailareassuchascuffs,pockets,andplackets.

Stretchnonwoveninterfacingstabilizesknitlengthwisebutallowsknittostretchcrosswise.Usethisinterfacingforflexibleshapingincollars,necklines,facings,tabs,andzipperopenings.

SHEERANDSILKYFABRICS

Sheerfabricscanhaveasoftorcrisphand;crispsheersareeasierto

cutandsew.Softsheersarebatiste ,chiffon ,Chinasilk ,

andgeorgette .Crispsheersincludefabricssuchasorganza ,voile ,andorgandy .

Themajorconsiderationwithsheerfabricsistheirtransparentquality.Thestitchesontheinsideofasheergarmentshowfromtheoutside.Whetherrevealedclearlyorasmereshadows,detailssuchasseams,facings,andhemsmustbeneatandnarrowtolookwellmade.

Silkyfabricsaremadefromnaturalsilkfibersorsyntheticfibersthatlooklikesilk,suchaspolyester,nylon,rayon,andacetate.Thepolyestertypesarepopularbecausetheyarelesscostlythansilkfabrics.Mostsyntheticsilk-likefabricsdonotshrinkorfade,andcanbewashedanddriedbymachine.Thisgroupoffabricsincludescharmeuse ,crepedechine ,lightweightjacquardweaves ,

lightweightsatinbackedcrepe ,andtissuefaille .

Evenwhensilkandsyntheticsilk-likefabricsdonothavethesee-throughcharacterofsheers,theydohavesimilarfineweavesandlightweights.Innerconstructioncanshowasridgesontheoutsideofsilkygarments.Thatiswhymanyofthesamesewingsuppliesandtechniquesaresuggestedforbothkindsoffabrics.Anadditionalconsiderationwithsilk-likefabricsistheirsmooth,slicktexture,whichmakesthemslipperytohandle.Youwillneedtotakespecialstepswhenlayingoutandcuttingthepatternpiecestocontrolthesefabrics.

GuidetoSewingSheerandSilkyFabrics

TechniquesforSheerandSilkyFabrics

Keepinmindthedelicatenatureofsheerandsilkyfabricswhenchoosingpatterns.Themostsuitablepatterndesignsarethosethatfitlooselyandhavegraceful,flowinglines.Lookforsoftdetailssuchasgathers,ruffles,shirring,ordraping.Crispsheers,however,canbesewnfrompatternswithtailored,shirt-styledetails.Bias-cutpatternsectionscanbedifficulttohandleonsilkandsyntheticsilkfabrics,whichstretchagreatdealaswellasslipandslide.

Forsheers,thefewerseams,darts,facings,andotherdetailstosew,thelessinsideconstructionwillshowthroughtotherightside.Also,thelesstimeyouwillspendwithspecialfinishingtechniques.Avoidpatternsthatrequirezippers,andomitin-seampocketsbecausezippersandpocketsarebulkyandcancreateanunattractiveshow-throughontheoutsideofthegarment.

FabricPreparation

Forbestresults,washanddrysheerandsilkyfabricsbeforeyoubeginworkingwiththemiftheywillbewashedaspartoftheirroutinecare.Thispreshrinksthefabricandremovesresins,whichcancauseskippedstitchesandmakestitchingdifficultonsyntheticfabrics.Followthecareinstructionsprovidedbythefabricmanufacturer.Typicalcareinstructionsaretomachinewashinagentlecycleandtumbledryatalowtemperaturesetting.Beforewashing,stitchalongcutedgesofthefabrictopreventexcessivefraying.

Puresilkandsilk/syntheticblendfabricsrequirespecialconsideration.Silkfabricscanbedrycleaned,buthandwashingmaybepreferred.Warmwaterreleasesanaturalsubstancefromwithinthesilkfibers,whichrenewsthefabricandgivesitarefreshedlook.Prewashingalsofreesyoufromworryaboutwaterspotting.Thedyesinsomesilkfabricsmayrun.Handwashingisnotrecommendedforstrongcolorsandprints.Useasampleofyourfabricasatesttoseehowitreactstohandwashing;thenpreparetheentirelengthoffabricaccordingly.

Alsopreshrinkotherfabrics,suchasinterfacingsandlinings.Evenatinyamountofshrinkageontheseinnerfabricswillshowupaspuckersorbubblesonthin,lightweightouterfabrics.

Ifyoudry-cleanyoursilkgarment,preparethefabricforsewingbysteampressingonthewrongside.Useapressclothtoprotectthefabric.Settheironatthelowestendofthesteamsetting.

Pressing

Thebestapproachtopressingsheerandsilkyfabricsistoworkwithfabricscrapsfirst.Determinetheoptimumtemperaturesettingonyouriron,beginningwithalowsettingandraisingitasneeded.Fabricsmadefromrayonorpolyesterfibersscorcheasilyandrequireacoolirontemperature.Useapressclothtoprotectfragilefabricsandfibers,oruseasoleplatecoveronyouriron.Avoidametal-coatedironingboardcoverbecauseitreflectstoomuchheatintothefabric.

Mostpuresilkfabricscanbepressedatalowsteamsetting,buttesttoseeifsteamingleavesspots.Thisisahazardespeciallyonpuresilkfabricsthathavenotbeenprewashedbeforepatternlayoutandonlustrousfabricssuchascharmeuse.

Avoidoverpressing.Thin,lightweightfabricsarequicklypenetratedbyheatandneedlesspressingeffortthanheavierfabrics.Alighttouchisallthatisnecessary.Useahandsteameronfinishedgarments.

LayoutandCutting

Fine,lightweightfabricsareeasiertohandleduringpatternlayoutifyoucoverthecuttingsurfacewithasheet,othermatte-surfacedfabric,orflannel-backedvinyltableclothwiththeflannelsideup.Cardboardcuttingboardsandpaddedworksurfacesalsohelptomakeslipperyfabricsmorecontrollable.

Topinpatternsinposition,usesuperfinepins(0.5mmdiameter).Theypenetratethefabricweavewithoutmarringit.Preparenewpinsbywipingoffthemanufacturer’soilcoatingtopreventleavingspots,orusethepinsfirstondarkfabric.Inspiteoftheirname,silkpinsaretoocoarseforthesefabricsandshouldbereservedforusewithheavierfabricssuchasrawsilk.

Thefastestwaytocutoutfinefabricsiswitharotarycutter.Thebladecutsfabricedgesneatlyanddoesnotshiftthefabricasyouwork.Anothergoodcuttingtoolarebenthandleddressmaker’sshears.Theshapeofthehandleallowsyoutorestonecuttingbladeontheworksurfaceforaccuratestrokesthatbarelydisturbthefabriclayers.Serratededgeshearscanalsobehelpful.Thespecialbladesfirmlygripthinandslipperyfabrics,abenefitnotonlyforinitialcuttingbutalsofortrimmingrawedges.Whichevertoolyouuse,besureitissharp;bladesofshearsshouldbeingoodalignment.Also,syntheticfabricscauseafuzzbuildup,whichdullsthecuttingblades;wipethisoffwithasoftcloth.

Usea“withnap”layoutforallfabricsthathavelusterorshine.This

one-waypatternlayoutguaranteesuniformcolorshadinginthefinishedgarment.Somefabricslooklighterorbrighterinonedirectionthantheother;studythefabricbeforepatternlayoutanddecidewhichshadingyouprefer.

HowtoHandWashSilks

Swishfabricgentlyinlukewarmwater.Usemilddetergent,mildsoap,ornaturalshampoosuchascastile.Rinseincoolwater.

Rollfabricintoweltoremoveexcessmoisture.Donotwringortwist;thiscauseswrinkles,whicharedifficulttoremove.

Pressonwrongsideoffabricwhileitiswet.Usedryironatcooltemperature,suchassyntheticsetting,keepinggrainlinestrue.

LayoutTechniquesforSlipperyFabrics

Foldfabricrightsideout,soless-slickwrongsidesfaceeachother.Pickupfabricalongfoldededge,andletfabricfallnaturallytoensureaccuracyofcrosswisegrain.

Pushpinsstraightdownthroughpatternseamallowance,fabric,andpaddedorcork-coveredworksurfacetosecureslipperylayers.Ifusingcardboardcuttingboard,avoidusingsuperfinepinsbecausecardboarddullsthemquickly.

Sandwichextremelyslipperyorthinfabricsbetweentwolayersoftissuepaperforbettercontrol.Placetissuepaperoncuttingboard;placefabricandpatternontissue;pinthroughalllayers.Pinonlyinseamallowances.

LUSTROUSFABRICS

Thelustroussurfaceofspecialoccasionfabricscancomefromtheweaveofthefabric,asistrueforsatin,orfromfiberswithsheen,suchassilkandacetate.Specialfinishesalsocreatesurfaceluster,ormetallicyarnsorsequinscanbeaddedtogiveanordinaryfabricglamoroussparkle.

Satinisaweavethatproducesashinysurfacetexturefromfloatingyarns.Thecombinationoffiberssuchassilk,rayon,orpolyesterwiththedistinctiveweavemakesthefabriclikelytowater-spot;protectthefabricwithapresscloth,anduseadryironwhenpressing.Usesuperfinepinstoavoidsnaggingsurfaceyarns.

Crepe-backedsatinisalsocalledsatin-backedcrepebecausethefabricisreversible;onefacehasthematte,pebblytextureofcrepe,andtheotherfacehasthesmooth,shinytextureofsatin.Onesidemaybeusedasabindingortrimfortheother.

Satinpeauisasatinwithafirmtwillweaveontherightside.Somepeausaredoublefaced,withfinecrosswiseribsonbothsides.Becausepinsandrippedoutstitchescanleavemarks,pinonlyinseamallowance;test-fittoavoidrippingstitches.

Taffetahasacrisphandanddrapesstiffly.Testsewingtechniquesonscraps,becausepinsandrippedoutstitchescanleavemarks.Whenthefibercontentincludesacetate,steamcanleavespots.

Moirétaffetaispassedbetweenheatedrollerstogiveitawatermarkedsurfacetexture.

Brocadecomesinallweights,fromlighttoheavy,andhasraisedtapestry-stylemotifs.Themotifsshouldbebalancedonmajorgarmentsectionsandmatchedatprominentseams.Mostbrocadesarewoven,butsomeareknit.Carefulpressingonapaddedsurfacepreservesthesurfacetexture.Whenbrocadeshaveshinymetallicthreads,settheironatalowtemperatureforpressing.Tomakemetallicbrocadesmorecomfortable,

underlinewithbatiste.

Metallicfabricshavemetallicyarnswovenorknitintothem.Mostmetallicsaresensitivetoheatanddiscolorwhensteamisused.Fingerpressseamswithathimbleorbluntendofapointturner,oruseacool,dryiron.

Laméisasmooth,shinymetallicfabric,eitherknitorwoven.Knitmetallicsdrapeandeasebetterthanthewovens.Besidestraditionalgold,silver,andcoppertones,lameisavailableiniridescentcolors.

Sequinedfabricshaveaknitorsheerwovenbase.Asimplepatternstyleisespeciallyimportantforthesefabrics.Orusesequinedfabricforonlyapartofthegarment,suchasthebodice.

TechniquesforLustrousFabrics

Manyfabricsfitintothelustrouscategory,andsomehaveuniquesewingrequirements.However,allofthesefabricsarealikeintwoways:A“withnap”patternlayoutisusedforuniformcolorshadinginthefinishedgarment,andthelesshandling,thebetter.Keephandlingtoaminimumbychoosingpatternsinsimplestyleswithfewseamsanddarts.Avoidbuttonedclosingsanddetailssuchasshapedcollarsandweltpockets.Useasimplepinkedfinishonplainseams,ortreatrawedgeswithliquidfraypreventerinsteadofusingelaboratedressmakertechniques.Takespecialcarewhenpressing,usingalighttouchandcoveringthepressingsurfacewithascrapofself-fabricsonapfacesnap.Topreventridgeswhenpressingseams,pressoveraseamrollorplacestripsofheavybrownpaperbetweenseamallowanceandgarment.

GuidetoSewingLustrousFabrics

TipsforHandlingLustrousFabrics

Layout.Pinonlyinseamallowancestopreventpinmarks.Useextra-finesilkpinsforfinelywovenfabricssuchassatinandtaffeta.Shearsmustbesharporstrokeswillchewrawedgesoffabric.Cutdirectionallyforsmoothestedges.Alwaysuse“withnap”layoutforfabricswithluster.

Seams.Useplainseamswithasimpleedgefinish.Rawedgescanbepinked,overlocked,orfinishedwiththree-stepzigzag.Iffabricfrayseasily,applythincoatofliquidfraypreventertorawedges.Slipenvelopesbetweenseamallowancesandgarmenttoprotectgarmentfromstraydrops.

LACEANDEMBROIDEREDFABRICS

Laceslookfragileanddelicatebutareactuallyeasytosew.Truelaceshaveanetormeshbackground,whichhasnograinlineanddoesnotravel.Youcancutintothefabricfreelyforcreativepatternlayouts,seamsneednotime-consumingedgefinishes,andhemmingrequireslittlemorethantrimmingclosetotheedgesofprominentmotifs.

Theopenworkdesignsoflacefabricshaverichhistories.SomelacesstillbearthenamesoftheEuropeanlocalitieswheretheywereoncemadebyhandfromsilk,cotton,orlinenfibers.Today,manylacesaremadebymachinefromeasy-carecottonblends,polyester,acrylic,ornylon.

Alençonlacehasfilledinmotifsoutlinedbysoftsatincordonasheernetbackground.Oneorbothlengthwiseedgesusuallyhaveafinishedborder.

Chantillylacehasdelicatefloralmotifsworkedonafinenetbackgroundandoutlinedwithsilkythreads.Apopularbridalfabric,Chantillylaceusuallyhasanalloverpattern.

Eyeletisafinelywovencottonorpolyester/cottonfabricembroideredwithasatin-stitchedopenworkdesign.Eventhougheyeletembroideriesarenottruelaces,theyrequirepatternlayoutandpressingtechniquessimilartothoseforlaces.

Peaud’angeisaformofChantillylacemadewithaflossyyarntogiveitasofttexture.

Venicelaceismadefromheavyyarnsanduniquestitchesthatgiveitathreedimensionaltexture.Picotbridgesjointhemotifs.Venicelacedoesnothavethenetbackgroundthatistypicalofmostlaces.

Pointd’esprithasanopennetorfinetullebackgroundwithapatternofembroidereddots.

Clunylaceismadefromheavycotton-likeyarnsandlookshand-crocheted.Itusuallyhaspaddleorwheelmotifsandmayhaveraisedknotsaspartofthedesign.

Schiffliisanembroideredsheerorsemi-sheerfabricdecorated

onaSchifflimachine,whichimitateshandembroiderystitches.

GuidetoSewingLaces

TechniquesforSewingLaceandEmbroideredFabrics

Selectapatternthatsuitsthetextureandweightofthelacefabric.Patternsforbridalandeveninggownsthatareillustratedinlacefabricsmayrequirespecificformsoflace,suchasedgingsofspecificwidthsorawidealloverlace.Checkthebackofthepatternenvelopeforthepatternrequirements.

Whenconsideringapatternthatisnotillustratedinlaces,selectapatternwithsectionssizedtofitthefabricwidth.Ifplanningtouseaborderedlaceonsleeves,youmayhavetouseashort-sleevedpatternifthelaceisnotwideenoughforlongsleeves,orplacethelaceattheloweredgeofanorganzasleeve.Becauselacehasnograinline,itispossibletoturnthepatternpiecestouseanedgeorborderasafinishededge.

FabricPreparation

Lacerarelyrequiresanypreparationforsewing.Mostlacesmustbedrycleaned.Althoughshrinkageisrare,ifthecarelabelonalacefabricindicatesitiswashable,andyouarecombiningitwithotherfabricsandtrimstomakeawashablegarment,thenyoushouldpreshrinkthelace.Addittotheothercomponentsofthegarmentasyoupreshrinkthem.

Facings,Interfacings,andUnderlinings

Facingsandinterfacingsarenotusedonlacegarments.Finishouteredgeswithlacetrim,laceborders,orsheertricotbiasorFrenchbinding.Cutcollarsandcuffsassinglelayers,andfinishtheouteredgeswithlacetrimorappliqué.Useanarrowseamtojointhemtothegarment.

Ifyouneedtoaddbodyorsupporttolace,underlinethelacewithtullenetting.Thetullenettingaddsstrengthwithoutshowingthroughorchangingthecharacterofthelace.

LayoutandCutting

Patternlayoutisanimportantpreliminarystepforlacefabrics.Beginbystudyingthedetailsofthelacedesign.Unfoldthefabricfullyontheworksurface,layingcontrastingfabricunderneathifnecessarytomakethedesigneasiertoread.

Notetheplacementofprominentmotifs,thespacingoftherepeats,andthedepthofanyborders.Themostnoticeablemotifsshouldbematchedattheseamsandcenteredorotherwisebalancedonmajorgarmentsections,justlikelargefabricprints.Ifthedesignhasone-waymotifs,usea“withnap”patternlayout.

Planhowtousethemotifscreatively.Somelaceshavelargeprimarymotifsandsmallersecondarymotifsorbordersthatcanbecutoutandusedasappliqués.Tousebordersashems,determinethefinishedskirtandsleevelengthsbeforepatternlayout.Ifyouplantotrimtheborderfromthefabricandsewittothegarmentasadecorativeedging,youdonotneedtodeterminelengthsinadvancesoprecisely.

Beforecutting,decidewhichseamtreatmentyouwillbeusing.Alloverlacescanbesewnlikesheerfabrics,withnarrowseams.However,ifyouareworkingwithare-embroideredlaceoraspecialheirloomlacewithalargemotif,lappedseamsmaybebetter.Theywillnotinterrupttheflowofthelacedesignaroundthegarmentbecausetheseamisnearlyinvisible.Withthismethod,patternsectionsmustbepinnedinplaceandcutoutonebyoneinsequence.Youmayuseacombinationofseamsinonegarment,withlappedseamsatshoulderandsideseamsandnarrow

zigzagordoublestitchedseamsforset-insleeves.

Oncelaceiscut,thereislittlemarginforfittingchanges.Fitthepatternbeforelayouttoavoidrippingoutstitcheslater.

Pressing

Avoidoverhandlinglacewithpressing.Ifalighttouch-upisneeded,presswithrightsidedownonawellpaddedsurfacetoavoidflatteningthelacetexture.Useapressclothtopreventthetipoftheironfromcatchingortearingthenetbackground.Ifyouareworkingwithlacemadefromsyntheticfibers,suchaspolyesterornylon,usealowtemperaturesettingontheiron.Fingerpressseams,darts,andotherconstructiondetails.Wearathimbleandpressfirmly.Iffurtherpressingisnecessary,steamlightly,thenfingerpress.

LaceAppliqués

Laceappliqués,eitherpurchasedassinglemedallionsorcutfromlacefabric,makeeleganttrimsonspecial-occasiongarments.Thesetrimsareoftenusedasaccentsonbridalandeveninggownbodiceswhentheskirtiscutfromlacefabric.Theycanalsobeusedasdetailsonsilkylingerieandblouses.

Tostitchappliquésinplace,useeitherthehandormachinemethod.Anotherquicktechniqueissecuringappliquéswithfusibleweb.Thismethodissuitableforlacesandbackgroundfabricsthatarenotsensitivetoheatandsteam.

AttachingLaceAppliqués

Uselacefabric.Cliparoundlacemotif.Leaveoneortworowsofnetaroundedgestogivemotifdefinitionandtokeepre-embroideredlacecordingsfromraveling.Youcanalsopurchaselaceappliqué.

Hand-stitch.Useshortrunningstitches¼"(6mm)fromappliquéedges.Keepstitchesloosesobackgroundfabricstayssmoothandappliquéisnotflattened.(Contrastingthreadisusedtoshowdetail.)

Machine-stitch.Useanarrowzigzagorshortstraightstitch¼"(6mm)insideedges.Underthemotif,trimfabricclosetozigzagstitchingforsheereffect.(Contrastingthreadisusedtoshowdetail.)

Fuse.Positiongarment,rightsideup,oncoveredpressingsurface.Placeappliquéongarment.Slipcirclesoffusiblewebunderappliqué.Coverwithpapertowelsorabsorbentpresscloth.Fuse,followingmanufacturer’sdirections.

SYNTHETICFUR,SUEDE,ANDLEATHER

Syntheticfurhasadeeppiletextureontherightside,whichcan

imitatethecoloringandtextureofnaturalpelts,suchasmink ,seal

,fox ,orsheepskin .Orasyntheticfurfabriccanhaveanovelty

texture thatlooksman-made.Syntheticfursareusuallymadefrommodacrylicorpolyesterfibersandcanbewashedanddriedbymachine.Mosthaveaknittedbacking.

Syntheticsuedeisanonwoven,softlynappedpolyester/polyurethanefabricthatcloselyresemblesgenuinesuededleather.Unlikerealleather,itisaneasy-carefabricthatcanbewashedanddriedbymachine.Themaindifferencebetweensyntheticsuedesisweight.Lightweight

syntheticsuedes drapesoftlyanddonotrequirespecialpatterns.

Medium-weighttypes aremorelikerealsuede.

Withconventionalsewingmethods,youmayneedtotakeextrafinishingsteps,suchasfusingtheseamallowancesandtopstitchingtheedgesbecausesuedesaredifficulttopressflatwithconventionalpressingtechniques.Oryoucanuseflatconstructiontechniques,suchaslappedseamsandfacedhems.Besidessolidcolors,thesyntheticsuedescanbe

embossed orprinted toaddtexturalinterest.

Syntheticleather/vinylfabricscanbesmooth ortextured .Likesuedes,vinylshavedifferentweights.Lightweight,supplevinylshaveaknittedorwovenbacking.Whenhandlingvinyls,usemanyofthesamemethodsusedforsyntheticsuedes,exceptvinylsaredamagedbyheatandsteamsotheycannotbepressed.

GuidetoSewingSyntheticFur,Suede,andLeather

INTERFACING

Interfacingplaysasupportingroleinalmosteverygarment.Itistheinnerlayeroffabricusedtoshapeandsupportdetailssuchascollars,cuffs,waistbands,pockets,lapels,andbuttonholes.Evensimplestylesoftenneedinterfacingtoaddstabilitytonecklines,facings,orhems.

Interfacingscomeinmanydifferentfibersandweights.Thepatternmayrequiremorethanonekind.Chooseinterfacingaccordingtotheweightofthefashionfabric,thekindofshapingrequiredandthewaythegarmentwillbecleaned.Generally,interfacingshouldbethesameweightorlighterthanthefashionfabric.Drapetwolayersofthefabricandtheinterfacingtogethertoseeiftheyhangwell.Areassuchascollarsandcuffsusuallyneedstifferinterfacing.Forsheerfabrics,anotherpieceofthefashionfabricmaybethebestinterfacing.

Interfacingsareavailableinwovenornonwovenfabrics.Woveninterfacinghasalengthwiseandcrosswisegrain.Itmustbecutwiththesamegrainasthepartofthegarmenttobeinterfaced.Nonwoveninterfacinghasnograin.Stablenonwovenscanbecutinanydirectionandwillnotravel.Stretchnonwovenshavecrosswisestretch,mosteffectiveforknits.

Bothwovenandnonwoveninterfacingsareavailableinsew-inandfusibleversions.Sew-ininterfacingmustbeheldinplacebymachinestitching.Fusibleshaveacoatingononesidewhich,whensteam-pressed,meltsandfusestheinterfacingtothewrongsideofthefabric.Fusiblescomeinplasticwrapperswhichhavedirectionsforapplying.

Followthemprecisely,sinceeachfusibleisdifferent.

Choosingbetweenfusibleandsewininterfacingisusuallyamatterofpersonalpreference.Sew-insrequiremorehandwork.Fusiblesarequickandeasy,andgivemorerigiditytothegarment.However,somedelicatefabricscannottaketheheatthatfusingrequires.Texturedfabricssuchasseersuckercannotbefusedbecausethetexturewouldbelost.

Interfacingsaremadeinweightsfromsheertoheavyandusuallycomeinwhite,gray,beige,orblack.Therearespecialtimesavinginterfacingsforwaistbands,cuffs,andplackets.Thesehavepre-markedstitchinglinestokeepedgeseven.

Anotherinterfacingaidisfusibleweb,availableinstripsofvariouswidths.Itbondstwolayersoffabrictogether,makingitpossibletobondasew-ininterfacingtothefashionfabric.

GuidetoInterfacings

Fusiblewoveninterfacingsareavailableindifferentweightsandcrispness.Cutthemonthesamegrainasthegarmentpiece,oronthebiasforsoftershaping.

Fusiblenonwoveninterfacingscomeinallweights,fromsheertoheavyweight.Stablenonwovenshavelittlegiveinanydirectionandcanbecutonanygrain.

Fusibleknitinterfacingsmadeofnylontricotarestableinthelengthwisedirectionandstretchonthecrosswisegraintobecompatiblewithlightweightknitandwovenfabrics.

Sew-inwoveninterfacingspreservetheshapeandqualitiesofthefabric,andshouldbeusedwithwovenfabrics.Weightsrangefromsheerorganzaandbatistetoheavyweighthaircanvas.

Sew-innonwovensprovideachoiceofweight,color,stretch,stable,orall-biascombinations.Theyareappropriateforknitsandstretchfabricsaswellasforwovens.

Fusiblewebisabondingagentusedtojointwolayersoffabricwithoutstitching.Itcanbeusedtobondasew-ininterfacingtothefashionfabric.

Nonwovenfusiblewaistbandingisprecutinwidthsorstripstobeusedforextrafirm,crispedgessuchaswaistbands,cuffs,plackets,

andstraightfacings.Ithaspremarkedstitchingorfoldlines.

Nonwovensew-inwaistbandingisaheavyweight,veryfirmfinishedstripforstiff,stablewaistbandsorbelts.Itisavailableinseveralwidths.Itcanbesewntothebackorfacingofawristband,butistoostifftosewintoawaistbandseam.

HowtoApplyFusibleInterfacing

Positioninterfacingonwarmfabric,resinsidedown;smoothintoplace.Lightlymistinterfacingwithwater,orsteamshrink.Positionpressclothanddampenwithliberalmisting,evenwhenusingsteamiron.

Startatcenteroflargeorlongpiecesofinterfacing,andworktowardeachendtofuse.Donotslideironfromonepositiontothenext.Toensurecompletecoverage,overlapfusedareaswithiron.

Usetwo-handedpressure,andleanoniron;fuseforrecommendedtime,10to15secondsformostfusibleinterfacings.Otherwise,bondwillnotbepermanentandwilleventuallyseparatefromfabric.

Pressthefusedareafromrightsideoffabricforbetterbonding.Useapressclothorironsoleplateguardtoprotectfabricsurface.Coolanddryfusedfabricsbeforemovingthem;interfacingiseasilyreshapedordistortedwhilewarm.

Layout,Cutting,andMarking

Onceyouhavechosenthepatternandfabricandassembledtheproperequipment,you’rereadytostartcreatingyourgarment.Beforeyoucut,makesurethefabricisproperlypreparedandthepatterncorrectlylaidout.

Muchoffabricpreparationandlayouthastodowiththefabricgrain.Grainisthedirectioninwhichthefabricthreadsrun.

Wovenfabricsconsistoflengthwisethreadsintersectingcrosswisethreads.Whenthesethreadscrossoneanotheratperfectrightangles,thefabricison-grain.Iftheintersectionoflengthwiseandcrosswisethreadsdoesnotformrightangles,thefabricisoff-grain.Itisessentialthatyourfabricbeon-grainbeforecutting.Iffabriciscutoff-grain,thegarmentwillneverhangorfitcorrectly.

Thedirectionofthelengthwisethreadsiscalledthelengthwisegrain.Thisgrainlinerunsparalleltotheselvage,anarrow,tightlywovenborderwhichrunsalongbothlengthwisesidesofthefabric.Becauselengthwisethreadsarestrongerandmorestablethancrosswisethreads,mostgarmentsarecutsothelengthwisegrainrunsvertically.The

crosswisethreadsformthecrosswisegrain ,whichrunsatrightanglestotheselvage.Inmostfabrics,ithasaslightamountofgive.Fabricswithborderprintsareoftencutonthecrosswisegrainsotheborderwillrunhorizontallyacrossthegarment.

Anydiagonallineintersectingthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsiscalledabias.Fabriccutonthebiashasmorestretchthanfabriccuton

thegrainline.Atruebias isformedwhenthediagonallineisata45-degreeangletoanystraightedge.Stripscutonthetruebiasareoftenusedtofinishcurvededgessuchasnecklinesandarmholes.Plaidsandstripescanbecutonthebiasforaninterestingeffect.Garmentscutonthetruebiasusuallydrapesoftly.

Knitfabricsareformedbyinterlockingloopsofyarncalledribs .Theribsrunparalleltothelengthwisesidesofthefabric.Theirdirectioncanbecomparedtothelengthwisegrainofwovenfabrics.Therowsofloops

atrightanglestotheribsarecalledcourses andarecomparabletothewovencrosswisegrain.Knitshavenobiasandnoselvage.Someflatknitshaveperforatedlengthwiseedgesthatlooklikeaselvage,butdonotrepresenttruelengthwisegrain.Othersaremadeinatubularshape;thesecanbecutopenalongalengthwiseribifasinglethicknessisneededforlayout.Knitshavethemoststretchinthecrosswisedirection,andarecutwiththecrosswisegrainrunninghorizontallyaroundthebodyformaximumcomfort.

PREPARINGTHEFABRIC

Beforelayingoutthepattern,takethenecessarystepstopreparethefabricforcutting.Thelabelonthebolttellswhetherthefabriciswashableordry-cleanableandhowmuch,ifany,thefabricwillshrink.Ifthefabrichasnotbeenpreshrunkbythemanufacturer,orifthelabelsaysitwillshrinkmorethanonepercent,youmustpreshrinkthefabricbeforecutting.Itisoftenadvisabletopreshrinkknits,sincethisremovesthesizingthatsometimescausesskippedstitches.Zippersandtrimsmayalsoneedpreshrinking.Dry-cleanablefabricscanbepreshrunkbysteampressingorbyaprofessionaldrycleaner.Thisisespeciallyimportantifyouplantousefusibleinterfacing,whichrequiresmoresteamthannormalpressingandmaycauseshrinkage.Tomakesurethefabricisongrain,beginbystraighteningthecrosswiseendsofyourfabric.Thismaybedonebypullingacrosswisethread,orcuttingalongawovendesignorcrosswiseribofaknit.Next,foldthefabriclengthwise,matchingselvagesandcrosswiseends.Ifthefabricbubbles,itisoffgrain.Fabricthatisslightlyoffgraincanbestraightenedbysteampressing.Pinalongselvagesandbothends,matchingedges.Pressfromtheselvagestothefold.Fabricthatisverymuchoffgrainmustbestraightenedbypullingfabricintheoppositedirectionfromthewaytheendsslant.Permanent-finishfabricscannotbestraightened.

HowtoPreshrinkFabric

Preshrinkwashablefabricbylaunderinganddryingitinthesamemanneryouwilluseforthefinishedgarment.

Steampresstopreshrinkdry-cleanablefabrics.Steamevenly,movingironhorizontallyorvertically(notdiagonally)acrossthegrain.Aftersteaming,letfabricdryonsmooth,flatsurfaceforfourtosixhours,oruntilthoroughlydry.

HowtoStraightenCrosswiseEndsofFabric

Pullthreadstostraightenwovenfabric.Cliponeselvageandgentlypulloneortwocrosswisethreads.Pushfabricalongthreadswithyourotherhanduntilyoureachoppositeselvage.Cutfabricalongpulledthread.

Cutonalinetostraightenastripe,plaid,check,orotherwovendesign.Simplycutalongaprominentcrosswiseline.Donotusethismethodforprinteddesigns,becausetheymaybeprintedoffgrain.

Cutonacourse(acrosswiserib)tostraightenendsofaknit.Itmaybeeasiertofollowalongthecourseifyoufirstbaste-markitwithcontrastingthread,ormarkwithmarkingpencilorchalk.

LAYINGOUTTHEPATTERN

Getreadytolayoutthepatternbypreparingalargeworkareasuchasatabletoppedwithacuttingboard,orotherlargeflatsurface.Assembleallthepatternpiecesfortheviewyouaremakingandpressthemwithawarm,dryirontoremovewrinkles.

Locatethecorrectlayoutdiagramonthepatterndirectionsheet.Patternlayoutsarereliableguidesforlayingoutthepatternquicklyandefficiently.Findthelayoutfortheview,fabricwidthandpatternsizeyouareusing.Whenworkingwithanappedorotherdirectionalfabric(page77),choosea“withnap”layout.Circlethelayoutwithacoloredpentomakesureyourefertothecorrectlayouteachtime.

Foldthefabricasindicatedonthelayout.Mostfabricsarecutwiththerightsidefoldedin.Thismakesiteasiertomarkandfastertostitch,sincesomepieceswillbeinpositiontosew.Cottonsandlinensareusuallyfoldedrightsideoutonthebolt;wools,wrongsideout.Therightsideofthefabricmayappearshinierorflatter,orhaveamorepronouncedweave.Selvageslookmorefinishedontherightside.Ifyoucannottellwhichistherightside,simplypickthesideyoulikebestandconsistentlyusethatastherightside.Aslightdifferenceinshadingthatisnotapparentasyoucutmaybenoticeableinthefinishedgarmentiftwodifferentsidesareused.

Thelayoutdiagramindicatestheplacementoftheselvagesandfold.Mostgarmentsarecutwiththefabricfoldedalongthelengthwisegrain.Ifthefabricistobecutfoldedonthecrosswisegrain,thefoldislabeled

“crosswisefold”onthelayout.Thecrosswisefoldshouldnotbeusedonnappedorotherdirectionalfabrics.

Placethepatternpiecesonthefabricasindicatedinthelayout.Thesymbolsandmarkingsusedinlayoutdiagramsarestandardizedforallmajorpatterncompanies.Awhitepatternpieceindicatesthatthispieceistobecutwiththeprintingfacingup.Ashadedpieceshouldbecutwiththeprintingfacingdown.Adottedlineindicatesthatapatternpieceshouldbecutasecondtime.

Whenapatternpieceisshownhalfwhiteandhalfshaded,itshouldbecutfromfoldedfabric.Cuttheotherpiecesfirstandrefoldthefabrictocutthispiece.Apatternpieceshownextendingbeyondthefoldiscutfromasinglelayerratherthantheusualdoublelayeroffabric.Aftercuttingtheotherpieces,openthefabricrightsideupandpositionthispiecebyaligningthegrainlinearrowwiththestraightgrainofthefabric.

Afterallpatternpiecesareinplace,pinthemtothefabricaccordingtothedirectionsatright.Donotbegincuttinguntilallpatternpiecesareinplace.

HowtoPinPatternPiecesinPlace

Positionpatternpiecestobecutonthefoldfirst.Placeeachdirectlyonfoldededgeoffabric.Pincornersofpatterndiagonally.Continuepinningintheseamallowance,placingpinsparalleltothecuttingline.Spacepinsabout3"(7.5cm)apart,closertogetheroncurvesoronslipperyfabrics.

Placestraight-grainpatternpiecesonfabricwithgrainlinearrowparalleltotheselvageofwovenfabrics,paralleltoaribforknits.Measurefromeachendofthearrowtotheselvageorrib,shiftingthepatternuntilthedistancesareequal.Pinbothendsofthegrainlinesopatternwillnotshift.Continuepinningasdirectedinstep1.

LAYINGOUTPLAIDSANDSTRIPES

Selectsimplestylesforplaidsandstripes.Complicatedfashionscandetractfromordistortthefabricdesign.Avoiddiagonalbustlinedarts,longhorizontaldarts,andpatternsdesignated“notsuitableforplaidsandstripes.”

Alwaysbuyextrayardagetoallowformatchingthedesignattheseams.Theextraamountneededdependsonthesizeoftherepeat(thefour-sidedareainwhichthepatternandcolorofthedesignarecomplete)andthenumberandlengthsofmajorpatternpieces.Usuallyanextra¼to½yd.(0.25to0.5m)issufficient.

Itiseasiertoworkwithevenplaidsandbalancedstripesthanunevenplaidsandunbalancedstripes.Evenplaidshavethesamearrangementofcolorsandstripesinbothlengthwiseandcrosswisedirections.Theareaofrepeatisperfectlysquare.Inunevenplaids,thecolorandstripesformadifferentarrangementinthelengthwiseorcrosswisedirection,orboth.Balancedstripesrepeatinthesameorderinbothdirections;unbalancedstripesdonot.Toavoidhavingtomatchtwolayersofyardageitisrecommendedthateachpatternpiecebelayedoutinasinglelayer.

Beforecuttingandlayout,decidetheplacementofplaiddesignlineswithinthegarmentandwheretheywillfallonthebody.Avoidplacingadominanthorizontallineorblockoflinesatthebustlineandwaistlineifpossible.Experimentwiththefabricdrapedfromshouldertohem.Someplaidgarmentslookmorebalancedwhenthehemlinefallsatthebottomofadominantcrosswiseline.Ifyouwishtodrawtheeyeawayfromthe

hemline,placethehemlinebetweentwodominantlines.Whenlayingoutplaidsandstripes,matchstitchinglines,notcuttinglines.

Tomatchattheseams,layouteachpieceinasinglelayerbeginningwithgarmentfront.Placedominantverticallinesatthecenterfrontandcenterback,orpositionthepatternsothecenterfrontishalfwaybetweentwodominantverticallines.Positionthesleeveinthesameway,usingtheshoulderdotastheguideforcenteringthesleeveonorbetweenthedominantverticallines.

Althoughitisnotalwayspossibletomatchthedesignateveryseam,trytomatch:crosswisebarsatverticalseamssuchascenterfrontandback,andsideseams;set-insleevestothebodicefrontatarmholenotches;lengthwisestripeswherepossible;andpockets,flaps,andotherdetailstotheareaofthegarmenttheywillcover.Theplaidmaynotmatchattheshoulderseamsorthebacknotchinthearmholeofaset-insleeve.

Identifyingevenandunevenplaids.Anevenplaidhaslengthwiseandcrosswisecolorbarsthatmatchwhentherepeatisfoldeddiagonally

throughthecenter .Anunevenplaidmayhavedifferingcolorbarsin

oneormoredirections .Oranunevenplaidmayhavematchingcolorbarsbutnotformamirrorimagewhenfoldeddiagonallybecausethe

repeatisnotsquare .Thistypeofunevenplaidisthemostdifficulttoidentify.

TipsforLayingOutPlaidFabrics

Layouteachpieceinasinglelayer,beginningwithfrontpatternpiece.Usedominantpartofdesignforcenterfrontandcenterback.Matchnotchesatsideseamsoffrontandback.

Centersleeveatsamedominantpartofdesignascenterfront.Thedesignshouldmatchatthenotches(arrows)ofthesleevefrontandarmholeofgarmentfront;notchesatbackmaynotmatch.

Positionpockets,cuffs,yokes,andseparatefrontbandsonthetruebiastoavoidtime-consumingmatching.Centeradominantdesignblockineachpatternpiece.

HowtoLayOutUnevenPlaids

Layoutpatternonsinglelayeroffabric,flippingpatternpiecesovertocutrightandlefthalves.Placemostdominantcolorbaratcenterfrontandcenterbackorpositionthepatternsothecenterfrontishalfwaybetweentwodominantverticallines.Placepatternpiecesinonedirectiononly,using“withnap”layout.Plaidwillrepeataroundthegarmentinsteadofformingamirrorimageoneachsideofthecenterfrontandcenterbackseams.

LAYINGOUTDIRECTIONALFABRICS

Directionalfabricsincludenappedfabricssuchascorduroy,velveteen,andflannel;plushfabricssuchasfakefur;shinyfabricssuchastaffetaandsatin;andprintfabricswhichhaveone-waydesigns.Otherfabricswhichcanbedirectionalincludesometwillweavefabricssuchasdenimandgabardine,andknitssuchasjersey,single,ordoubleknitswhichappearlighterordarkerdependingonthedirectionofthegrain.

Topreventthegarmentfromhavingatwo-tonedlookorhavingitsdesignrunningintwodifferentdirections,allpatternpiecesmustbelaidoutwiththeirtopsfacingthesamedirection.Nappedfabricscanbecutwiththenaprunningeitherupordown.Naprunningupgivesadarker,richerlook.Naprunningdownlookslighterandusuallywearsbetter.Plushfabricslookbestwiththenaprunningdown.Shinyfabricscanbe

cutinwhicheverdirectionyouprefer.One-waydesignsshouldbecutsothatthedesignwillberightsideupwhenthegarmentiscompleted.

HowtoLayOutDirectionalFabrics

Choosethedirectionyourfabricwillrun,thenlayoutthepatternpiecesaccordingtothe“withnap”layoutonthepatterndirectionsheet.Toensureproperplacement,markeachpatternpiecewithanarrowpointingtothetopofthepiece.Sometimesthepatterncallsforacrosswisefold.Inthiscase,foldthefabricasthelayoutindicates,thencutalongthefoldline.Turnthetoplayeroffabricaroundsothenaprunsinthesamedirectionasthenapofthelowerlayeroffabric,andcutbothlayersatthesametime.

CUTTINGTIPS

Arrangeyourcuttingtablesoyoucanmovearoundittogetatthepatternfromallangles.Ifyourcuttingsurfaceisnotthisaccessible,cutgroupsofpatternpiecesapartfromtherestofthefabricsoyoucanturnthesesmallerpiecesaround.

Accuracyisimportant,sinceamistakeincuttingcannotalwaysbecorrected.Beforecutting,doublecheckplacementofpatternpiecesandalterations.Beforecuttingplaids,one-waydesignsordirectionalfabrics,makesurethefabricisfoldedandlaidoutcorrectly.Bastingtape(page30)maybehelpfultokeepfabricfromshifting.Heavyorbulkyfabriccanbecutmoreaccuratelyonelayeratatime.Slipperyfabriciseasiertocutifyoucoverthetablewithasheet,blanketorothernonslipmaterial.

Choosesharp,plainorserratedblade,bent-handledshears,7"or8"(18or20.5cm)inlength.Takelong,firmstrokes,cuttingdirectlyonthedarkcuttingline.Useshorterstrokesforcurvedareas.Keeponehandonthepatternnearthecuttinglinetopreventthepatternfromshiftingandtoprovidebettercontrol.

Therotarycutter(page28)isespeciallyusefulforcuttingleather,slipperyfabricsorseverallayersoffabric.Therotarycuttercanbeusedbyeitherrightorleft-handedsewers.Useacuttingmattoprotectthecuttingsurface.

Notchescanbecutoutwardfromthenotchmarkings,orwithshortsnipsintotheseamallowance(page83).Becarefulnottosnipbeyondthe

seamline.Usesnipstomarkthefoldlinesandstitchinglinesofdartsandpleats,andthecenterfrontandcenterbacklinesatthetopandbottom.Markthetopofthesleevecapabovethelargedotonthepatternwithasnip.Onbulkyorlooselywovenfabricwheresnipscannotbeeasilyseen,cutpatternnotchesoutintothemargin.Cutdoubleortriplenotchesasoneunit,notseparately.

Afteryoufinishcutting,savescrapstoteststitchingorpressingtechniques,maketrialbuttonholes,orcoverbuttons.Foraccuratemarkingandeasyidentification,leaveeachpatternpiecepinnedinplaceuntilyouarereadytosewthatpiece.

Yourpatternmaycallforbiasstripsoffabrictoencloserawedgessuchasnecklinesorarmholes.Ideally,thesearecutfromapieceoffabriclongenoughtofittheareatobeenclosed.Biasstripsmayalsobepiecedtogethertoformastripofthecorrectlength.

HowtoCutandJoinBiasStrips

Foldfabricdiagonallysothatastraightedgeonthecrosswisegrainisparalleltotheselvageorlengthwisegrain.Thefoldlineisthetruebias.Cutfabricalongthefoldlinetomarkthefirstbiasline.

Marksuccessivebiaslineswithamarkingpencilorchalk,andyardstickorsee-throughruler.Cutalongmarkedlines.Whenaboundfinishiscalledforinapattern,thepatternwillspecifythelengthandwidthofbiasstripsneeded.

Joinbiasstripsifpiecingisnecessary.Withrightsidestogether,pinstripstogetherwithshorteredgesaligned.Stripswillforma“V.”Stitcha¼"(6mm)seam.Pressseamopen.Trimpointsofseamsevenwithedgeofbiasstrip.

MARKINGTIPS

Inmarking,keypatternsymbolsaretransferredtothefabricaftercuttingandbeforethepatternisremoved.Thesemarkingsbecomereferencepointstohelpyouthroughallstagesofgarmentconstruction.Patternsymbolsthatshouldbemarkedincludeconstructionsymbolsandpositionmarksforplacementofdetails.

Markingisusuallydoneonthewrongsideofthefabric.Somesymbols,suchaspocketplacementandbuttonholes,shouldbetransferredfromthewrongsidetotherightsideofthefabric(notmarkedontherightside).

Thereareseveralwaystotransfermarkings,eachsuitablefordifferentfabrics.Choosewhichevergivesyouthefastest,mostaccuratemarking.

Pinsareaquickwaytotransfermarkings.Theyshouldnotbeusedonfinefabricsorthoseonwhichpinmarkswouldbepermanent,suchassilkorsyntheticleathers.Usepinmarkingonlywhenyouplantosewimmediately,sincepinsmayfalloutoflooseweavesorknits.

Tailor’schalkordressmaker’spencil,usedwithpins,aresuitableformostfabrics.

Tracingwheelandtracingpaperworkbestonplain,flat-surfacedfabrics.Thewheelmaydamagesomefabrics,sotestonascrapfirst.Beforemarking,placeapieceofcardboardunderthefabrictoprotectthetable.Onmostfabrics,bothlayerscanbemarkedatonce.

Liquidmarkersarefelt-tippensdesignedespeciallyforfabric.The

markertransfersthroughthepatterntissueontothefabric.Theinkrinsesoutwithwaterordisappearsonitsown,soliquidmarkerscanbeusedontherightsideofmostfabrics.

Machinebastingtransfersmarkingsfromthewrongsideofthefabrictotherightside.Itcanalsobeusedtomarkintricatematchingpointsorpivotpoints.Aftermarkingonthewrongside,machine-stitchthroughthemarking.Usealongstitchlengthorspeed-bastingstitch,withcontrastingcolorthreadinthebobbin.Thebobbinthreadmarkstherightside.Tomarkapivotpoint,stitchontheseamlinewithregular-lengthstitchingandmatchingthread.Leavethestitchinginplaceasareinforcement.

Snipsorclipscanbeusedonmostfabricsexceptlooselywoventweedsandbulkywools.Withthepointofscissors,snipabout1/8"to¼"(3to6mm)intotheseamallowance.

Pressingcanbeusedtomarkfoldlines,tucks,orpleats.Itisasuitablemethodforanyfabricthatholdsacrease.

HowtoMarkwithChalk,Pencil,orLiquidMarker

Insertpinsstraightdownthroughpatternandbothlayersoffabricatmarkingsymbols.

Removepatterncarefullybypullingoverpinheads.Marktoplayerwithchalk,pencil,ormarkeratpinpointsonwrongside.

Turnfabricoverandmarkotherlayeratpinpoints.Removepinsandseparatelayers.

HowtoMarkwithBastingorPressing

Hand-bastewithlongandshortstitchestomarkonelayeroffabric.Stitchthroughpatternandfabricalongasolidline,usingshortstitchesonthetissuesideandlongstitchesthroughfabric.Carefullypullpatterntissueaway.

Machine-bastetotransferpencil,chalk,ortracingpapermarkingsfromthewrongsidetotherightside.Usecontrastingthreadinthebobbin,longeststitchonmachine.Donotusemachinebastingonfabricswhichmar.Donotpressovermachinebasting.

Presstomarkfoldlines,tucks,andpleats.Pinpatterntoasinglelayeroffabric.Foldpatternandfabricalongmarkingline.Pressalongthefoldwithadryiron.

HowtoMarkwithTracingWheelandTracingPaper

Placetracingpaperunderpattern,withcarbonsidesfacingthewrongsideofeachfabriclayer.

Rolltracingwheeloverlinestobemarked,includingcenterfoldlinesofdarts,usingarulertohelpdrawstraightlines.

Markdotsandotherlargesymbolswithshortlinesperpendiculartothestitchingline,oran“X.”Useshortlinestomarktheendsofdartsorpleats.

TimesavingMarkingTechniques

Snipscanbeusedtomarknotches,endsofdarts,foldlines,orcenterfrontandbacklocations.Maketinysnips,1/8"(3mm)deep,intoseamallowance.Snipthroughpatternandbothfabriclayerswithpointofscissors.

Pinscanmarkdarts,dots,orfoldlineswithoutthehelpofmarkingpencil.Insertpinsthroughpatternandfabric.Pullpatterncarefullyoverheads.Markbottomlayerwithsecondsetofpins.Securefirstsetofpinstomarktoplayer.

Tailortackerhastailor’schalkinsertedintwoholders.Onesidehasapinwhichisinsertedthroughpatternmarkingtomeetchalkontheotherside.Twistbothsidesoftackersochalkmarkstwofabriclayersinonetimesavingstep.

SEWINGTECHNIQUES

GeneralGuidelinesforPatternAdjustmentsPatternadjustmentschangethemeasurementandshapeofstandardpatternpiecestofityourfigure.Tostreamlinetheentirefittingprocess,makeasmanyfittingchangesasyoucanbeforeyoucut.Step-by-stepinstructionsforspecificadjustmentsaregivenonthefollowingpages.Thebasicguidelinesthatfollowapplytomostchangesyouarelikelytomake.

Presspatternpieceswithawarm,dryironbeforeyoustart.It’shardtobeaccuratewhenworkingwithwrinkledtissuepieces.

Pin-fitthepatterntopreviewhowwellthefashionstylefitsyourfigure.Adjustthepatternonyourbody,ordecidehowextensivelyyouneedpatternadjustments.Ifyouneedmanyadjustments,reconsideryourchoiceofpatternstyle.Anotherstylemayfityourfigurewithfeweradjustments.Also,pin-fitaftermakingpatternadjustmentsasafastcheckoftheiraccuracy.

Workinalogicalorder,completinglengtheningorshorteningpatternadjustmentsfirst.Thenworkfromthetopofthepatterndowntomakeadditionaladjustmentstofitbodywidthandcontours.

Watchforchainreactions.Adjustmentsononepatternpieceusuallyrequirematchingadjustmentsonadjoiningpatternsections.Ifyouchangethenecklineseam,forexample,youmustchangetheneckfacingtomatch.Sometimesacompensatingratherthanamatchingadjustmentisnecessary.Forexample,ifyoulowertheshoulderseamstofitslopingshoulders,youmustalsolowertheunderarmseamtoretainthearmhole

size.

Maintaintheoriginalgrainlineasprintedonthepatternpieces,sothefinishedgarmenthangsproperly.Extendthegrainlinefromoneedgeofthepatternpiecetotheotherbeforecutting.Thishelpspreservegrainlineasyoumakeadjustments.

Blendtheadjustedstitchingandcuttinglinesbackintotheoriginallines.Whenadjustmentsareblendedcorrectly,theoriginalshapeofthepatternpiecewillnotbedistorted.

Toblendaseam,drawacontinuouslinewhereonehasbecomebrokenduringpatternadjustment.Toblendastraightline,usearulerorstraightedge,connectingthebeginningandendofthenewline.Toblendacurvedline,useacurvedrulertoreconstructtheoriginalcurveofthepattern,blendingtoeachendfromapointhalfwaybetweenthebrokenseamline.

Blendtheseamlinefirst,thenthecuttingline.Onmultiple-sizedpatternswherenoseamlinesaremarked,blendthecuttinglineonly,andstitchthespecifiedseamallowance,usually5/8"(1.5cm).

Whenthereisadartintheseamline,foldthedartoutbeforeblendingtheline.Besuretomarkallnotchesanddartsonthenewblendedseamline.

CHOOSINGANADJUSTMENTMETHOD

Whereverpossible,twomethodsaregivenforthemostcommonpatternadjustments:theminor,orin-seam,methodandthemajor,orcut-and-slide,method.Chooseonemethodortheother,dependingonhowmuchofanadjustmentyouneedtomake.

Minorin-seampatternadjustmentsarequickandeasy,becauseyoucanmarkthemdirectlyontheprintedpatternwithintheseamallowanceoronthepatterntissuemargin.In-seammethodshavenarrowlimitations.Usuallyyoucanaddorsubtractnomorethan3/8"to½"(1to1.3cm).

Inthephotos,toclarifywhereanadditionwouldnormallybemarkedonthemarginofthetissuepattern,themarginhasbeentrimmedandacontrastingtissueplacedunderthepattern.Thisprocedureisnotnecessaryonpatternsthathavenotbeenusedpreviously,becausetheyhavegeneroustissuemarginsaroundthem.

Majorcut-and-slidepatternadjustmentsallowyoutoaddorsubtractgreateramountsthanin-seammethodsandtomakeadjustmentsexactlywheretheyareneededtofityourfigure.Cut-and-slidemethodsalsohavelimits,usuallytoamaximumof2"(5cm).Thespecificamountisstatedwiththestep-by-stepinstructions.Donotattempttoadjustbeyondthestatedmaximumsoryouwilldistorttheshapeofthepatternpiecesandcausethefinishedgarmenttohangoff-grain.Itwillalsobemoredifficulttomakematchingorcompensatingadjustmentsonadjoiningpatternsections.

Ifyouneedagreateradjustmentthancut-and-slidemethodsallow,

considerworkingwithanotherpatternsize.Ordistributetheadjustmentoveradditionalpatternseamsanddetailsinsteadofconcentratingtheadjustmentinonearea.

BASICLENGTHADJUSTMENTS

Beforemakinganyotherpatternadjustments,adjustthelengthofpatternpiecestofityourpersonallengthproportions.Ifyourfigureisclosetoaverage,basiclengthadjustmentsmaybetheonlychangesneeded.

Basiclengthadjustmentsaremadeintwoareas:aboveandbelowthewaist.Useyourbackwaistlengthmeasurementtodeterminethecorrectpatternlengthabovethewaist.Todeterminethecorrectpatternlengthbelowthewaist,measurefromthewaistinbacktotheproposedhemline.Maketheselengthadjustmentsusingtheadjustmentlinesprintedonthepatternpieces.

AdjustmentsforSpecialFigures

Ifyourbustpointdoesnotmatchtheplacementonthepatternitmaybenecessarytoadjustthelengthabovethebustortoadjustthedartssothattheypointtothefullestpartofthebust.Ifyouhaveafullbust,adjustthefrontpatternlengthabovethewaist,asonpage93.

Forpetitefiguretypes,reducethepatternlengthproportionately,bydividingthetotaladjustmentintosmalleramounts.Shortenthepatternatthechestandsleevecapandatthehipadjustmentline,inadditiontousingtheprintedadjustmentlinesabovethebustandwaist.Lengthmayalsobeadjustedatthehemline.

Standardpatternshorteningadjustmentsforpetiteareremove¼"(6mm)atchest,¾"(2cm)abovewaist,1"(2.5cm)athipadjustmentline,and1"(2.5cm)athemtoshortenpatternby3"(7.5cm).Standardadjustmentsforwomen’spetitearesimilar,butthechestadjustmentisomittedbecausearmholesizedoesnotneedtobereduced.Customizestandardlengthadjustmentstosuityourownproportions.

HowtoDetermineLengthAdjustments

Abovethewaist.Measurebackwaistlengthfromprominentboneatbackofnecktonaturalwaistline.Comparewithbackwaistlengthmeasurementforyourpatternsizegivenonpatternenvelopetodeterminehowmuchtoadjustbodicefrontandbackpatterns.

Belowthewaist.Measureatcenterbackfromwaisttoproposedgarmenthemline,oruseagarmentofcorrectlengthtodeterminethismeasurement.Comparewithfinishedgarmentlengthgivenonbackofpatternenvelopetodeterminehowmuchtoadjustskirtfrontandbackpatterns.

HowtoShortenPatterns

Cutpatternontheprintedadjustmentlines.Ifskirtpatternprovidesnoadjustmentlines,cutoffexcesslengthatbottomedge.

Lapcutsections.Overlapequalstotalamountpatternmustbeshortened.Tapesectionstogether,keepinggrainlinestraight.

Blendstitchingandcuttinglines.Makematchingadjustmentsonbackandfrontpatterns.

HowtoLengthenPatterns

Cutpatternontheprintedadjustmentlines.

Spreadcutsectionstheamountneeded.Placepaperunderneathtobridgegap.Tapesectionsinplace,keepinggrainlinestraight.

Blendstitchingandcuttinglines.Makematchingadjustmentsonbackandfrontpatternpieces.

HowtoShortenPatternsforPetites

Pin-fitormeasurepatterntodeterminehowmuchlengthtoremoveacrosschestabovearmholenotches,atadjustmentlineabovewaist,athipline,andatadjustmentlinebelowwaist.

Drawadjustmentlinesonfrontandback,midwaybetweenarmholeandshoulderseamnotches.Drawsimilarlineacrosssleevecap.Drawhipadjustmentline5"(12.5cm)belowwaistonskirtfrontandback.

Cutpatternpiecesoneachadjustmentline;laptoshorten.Shortenbackandfrontpatternsequally.Shortensleevecapbysameamountremovedfrombodiceatchest.

FITTINGTHEBUST

Whenfittedcorrectly,thebodiceofagarmentdrapessmoothlyoverthebustwithoutpulling,andthewaistlineofthegarmentliesatnaturalwaistlineandisparalleltothefloor.Adjustbodicebacklengthaccordingtobackwaistlengthmeasurement.Makesimilaradjustmentsonbodicefront.Inaddition,frontbodiceseamsordartsmayneedtobeadjustedtofityourbustsizeandshape.

Ifyourbustisfullerthanstandard,youmayneedtoaddadditionallengthandwidthtothebodicefrontpattern.Keepinmindthatbodicefrontandbacksideseamlengthsmustmatch.Ifyouhaveselectedapatternfeaturinglooseoroversizedfit,youcanusesomeofthedesigneaseinthepatterntofitafullbustandmakealesseradjustment.

Foranaverageorsmallbust,pin-fitting,seeopposite,willdeterminewhetheritisnecessarytoraiseorlowerdarts.Repositioningthedartsmaybeallthatisneededtoimprovepatternfit.

MinimumEase

Ifyoumakebustadjustmentsonthepatternbeyondsimplyraisingorloweringdarts,youmaywanttotestyouradjustmentsbymakingabodicefittingshellfromtheadjustedpattern.Manyfittingsolutionsareeasiertovisualizeinfabric,andthisextrastepcansavetimeinthelongrun.

Ease,orextraroom,isnecessaryforcomfortatthebustline.Addtheminimumamountofeasetoyourbustmeasurement,asshownonthechartabove,beforecomparingwiththepatterntojudgewhetherpatternadjustmentsareneeded.

Theeaseamountsgivenonthechartaregeneralguidelines.Attimesyoumaywanttofitwithmoreorlessease.Forexample,thickfabricsrequiremoreeasethanlightweightones.Knitsrequirelesseasethanwovens,andverystretchyknitsrequirenoeaseatallorevennegativeeaseforformfittinggarments.

HowtoDeterminePatternAdjustments

Measurebust atfullestpart,keepingtapemeasureparalleltofloor.Addminimumeasetobustmeasurement.Measurethefrontwaistlength frommidpointofshoulder,overbustpoint,straightdowntowaist.Measurethesidelength from1"(2.5cm)belowunderarmtowaist.Usetwofingersunderarmtodeterminedistance.

Measurepatternfrontandbackatbustline .Measurebodicefrontpatternfrommidpointofshoulder,overbustpoint,towaist.Noteanydifferencestodecideifpatternlengthmustbe

adjustedabovewaistorbust(pages88and89).Measuresideseamofbodicefrontpatternfromunderarmtowaist .Noteanydifferencestodecideifpatternlengthmustbeadjusted.

Pin-fitpatterntomarkthebustpoint.Noteifbustshapingordartsonthepatternshouldberaisedorloweredforgoodfit.Comparepatternmeasurementwithbodymeasurementplusminimumeasetodeterminehowmuchwidthtoaddforfullbustorhowmuchtoremoveforsmallbust.

HighBust

Poorfit,whenthebustishigherthanaverage,showsinpullsacrossthefullestpartofthebustandinwrinklesunderthebust.Dartdoesnotpointtofullestpartofcurve.Underarmdartmustberaised;dartfromthewaistline(ifany)needstobelengthened.

LowBust

Poorfit,whenthebustislowerthanaverage,showsinpullsacrossthefullestpartofthebustandinwrinklesabovethebust.Dartsaretoohighandneedtobeloweredandshortened.

HowtoRaiseorLowerDarts

Drawhorizontallinesonthepattern½"(1.3cm)aboveandbelowtheunderarmdart,atrightangletograinline.Connectthelineswithaverticallinethroughdartpoint.Cutoutdartonmarkedlines.

Raisedarttheamountneededforahighbust.Positiondartsothatitpointstothebustpoint(dot)orfullestpartoffigure.Placepaperunderpattern.Tapecutedgesinplace,keepingedgeseven.Redrawsideseam.

Lowerdarttheamountneededforalowbust.Positiondartsothatitpointstothebustpoint(dot)orfullestpartoffigure.Placepaperunderpattern.Tapecutedgesinplace,keepingedgeseven.Redrawsideseam.

Diagonaldartrequireschangeindirectionsothatitpointstobustpoint.Marknewdartpointonpattern.Redrawdart,connectingsideseamendsofthedartandnewdartpoint.

HowtoFitaFullBustwithoutDarts

Accommodatefullbustonlesscloselyfittedpatternstylesbymakinganadjustmentthatdoesnotcreateadart.Thismethodcanbeusedtoincreasethepatternalimitedamount.Exceedingthemaximumadjustmentdistortsthefabricgrainattheloweredgeofthegarment.Thisadjustmentisnotappropriateonplaids,checks,orstripes.

Drawlineacrossbodicefrontmidwaybetweenarmholenotchandshoulderseam,atrightangletograinline.Drawsecondline2"to4"(5to10cm)belowarmhole,atrightangletograinline.Drawthirdlinethroughbustpoint,paralleltograinlinetoconnectfirsttwolines;extendlinetoloweredge.

Cutpatternonadjustmentlines.Slidearmholeportionoutamaximumof¾"(2cm)toaddtotalof1½"(3.8cm)tobodicewidth.Slidecenterfrontwaistsectiondownnomorethan2"(5cm)toaddbodicelength.Tapetopaper.

Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesatarmholeandsideseams.Usecurvedrulertoblendlowercuttinglinefromthecenterfront,taperingbacktotheoriginalsideseam.

FITTINGTHEWAISTANDABDOMEN

Althoughawaistbandorwaistlineshouldfitsnugly,itmustbeslightlylargerthanyourwaistforgoodfit.Forwearingcomfort,afinishedwaistbandshouldbefrom½"to1"(1.3to2.5cm)largerthanyouractualmeasurement.Inaddition,allow½"(1.3cm)ofeasefrompatternwaistmeasurementtowaistband.Applythesamefittingguidelinestogarmentswithfacedwaistlines.Ifgarmenthasawaistlineseamandnoband,allowthetotalamount,1"to1½"(2.5cmto3.8cm),forbasicease.

Oneindicationofgoodwaistfitisthewaythesideseamshang.Theyshouldhangstraight,visuallybisectingthebody,withoutbeingpulledtothefrontortheback.Figureandposturevariationsmaycausedistortionofthesideseamsandrequireseparateadjustmentofskirtfrontandback.Forexample,abodywithafullabdomenwillneedadditionalwidthandlengthinfront,whileapersonwithswaybackedposturemayneedtoshortentheskirtpatternatcenterback.Adjustmentsforfullabdomenandswaybackshouldbedeterminedandmadeatthesametimethatthewaistwidthadjustmentismade.

HowtoDeterminePatternAdjustments

Measureyourwaist.Comparewiththewaistmeasurementforyourpatternsize.Minimumwearingeaseisincludedinthepattern,soadjustthepatternaccordingly,enlargingorreducingasneeded.

Pinoutwaistlinedarts,tucks,orpleatstomeasurepatterntocomparewithbodymeasurementsplusease.Measureatthewaistlineseam;onagarmentwithoutawaistlineseam,measureatthewaistlinemarkatthenarrowestpartofthewaistlinearea.Doublethepatternmeasurementtocomparewithyourwaistmeasurement.

SmallWaist

Poorfithaswaistlineorwaistbandthatistoolarge,althoughgarmentfitsathipsandbust.Adresswithawaistlineseamisbaggy,withlooseverticalfoldsatthewaist.Onaskirtorpants,waistbandstandsawayfromwaistandtendstoslidedown.

MinorAdjustment

Removeone-fourththeamountneededateachseam—maximumof3/8"(1cm)perseamfromsizessmallerthan16;5/8"(1.5cm)fromsize16andlarger.Blendstitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.Ondart-fittedskirtsorpants,donotmakedartsdeepertoreducewaistlineunlessadditionalgarmentcontouringisneededtofitbroadcurvyhipsorfullroundseat.Adjustwidthonadjoiningpatternpieces.

MajorAdjustment

Drawaline5"(12.5cm)long,paralleltolengthwisegrainline,betweensideseamanddart.Drawasecondlinefrombottomoffirstlinetosideseam,atrightangletograinline.

Slidesectionintoremoveupto1"(2.5cm)fromwaistseam.Tapepaperunderneath.Blendstitchingandcuttinglines.Makematchingadjustmentonback,removingupto2"(5cm)fromeachseamforatotalreductionof4"(10cm).

Pin-fitpatterntocheckpositionofwaistlinedarts.Itmaybenecessarytoreshapeormovethedartsclosertocenterfrontandbackforgoodfit.Makeacorrespondingwidthadjustmenttoadjoiningwaistband,facing,orbodicepattern.

LargeWaist

Poorfitisindicatedbyhorizontalwrinklesnearthewaist,whichcausethewaistlineofadresstorise.Awaistbandonskirtoronpantscreasesfromstrain.Wrinklesfanoutfromwaistorformhorizontalfoldsbelowwaistband.

MinorAdjustment

Addone-fourththeamountneededateachseam,addingupto3/8"(1cm)perseamallowancefortotalof¾"(2cm)perseam.Ondart-fittedskirts,eachdartcanbereducedupto¼"(6mm)toenlargewaistline.Blendstitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.Makecorrespondingwidthadjustmenttoadjoiningwaistband,facing,orbodicepatterns.

MajorAdjustment

Drawadjustmentlinesandcutpatternasinstep1forsmallwaist(page95).Slidesectionoutupto1"(2.5cm).Tapepaperunderneath.Blendstitchingandcuttinglinestowaist,usingcurvedruler,andtohem,usingstraightedge.Makematchingadjustmentonbackpattern,addingupto2"(5cm)perseamfortotalof4"(10cm).

Pin-fitpatterntocheckpositionofwaistlinedarts.Itmaybenecessarytoreshapedartsormovethemclosertothesideseamsforabetterfit.Makeacorrespondingwidthadjustmenttoadjoiningwaistband,facing,orbodicesections.

ProminentAbdomen

Poorfitisindicatedbyhorizontalwrinklesacrossthefrontbelowthewaistline.Diagonalwrinklesfromabdomentosidespullsideseamsforward.Waistlineandhemlinemayrideup.Extralengthandwidthareneededatcenterfront.

MinorAdjustment

Raisewaiststitchinglineonfrontskirtorpantspatternupto3/8"(1cm)atcenterfronttoaddmorelength.Foldoutdarts,andblendstitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.

Addupto½"(1.3cm)atsideseamofthefrontpatternpiece.Removesameamountfrombackpatternpiecetomaintainthewaistcircumference.Tofurtherimprovefit,convertfrontdartstogathersorunpressedpleats.

MajorAdjustment

Drawdiagonaladjustmentlinesonpatternfromintersectionofsideseamandwaistlineseamthroughdartpoints,extendingatrightangletocenterfront.Cutonline.Cutondartfoldlineto,butnotthrough,dartpoint.

Slidecentersectionuptheamountneededandouthalftheamountneeded,openingdartsanddiagonalslash.Extendcenterfrontlinefromnewpositiontohemline.Dartscanalsobeconvertedtogathersorunpressedpleats.Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesatwaistline.

FlatAbdomen

Poorfitisindicatedbyverticalwrinklesandexcessfabricatcenterfront.Hipbonesmayprotrude.Dartsarepoorlylocatedandtoodeepforflatabdomencontour.

AdjustmentsforFlatAbdomen

Redrawshallowerdartsbyremovinganequalamountoneachsideofdartfoldline.Torestoretheoriginalwaistlinemeasurement,removethesameamountfromsideseam,blendingfromapointonwaistlineseamtohiplinewithcurvedruler.

Movedartsclosertosideseamforprominenthipbones.Cutoutdartasforraisingorloweringbustdart(page92),andslideittocorrectpositionafterpin-fittingpattern.Foldoutdart,andblendwaistlinestitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.

Swayback

Poorfitiscausedbyposturevariation;areadirectlybeneathwaistinbackdoesnotfitsmoothly,orskirtbagsinseatarea,indicatingthatgarmentistoolongatcenterback.Diagonalwrinklesform,indicatingthatdartwidthorlengthiswrongforbodyshape.Pinoutexcesstodetermineamounttoshortenatcenterback.

AdjustmentforSwayback

Adjustdarts,ifnecessary,toaccommodateprotrusionofseat.Ifdartwidthischanged,makecorrespondingwidthadjustmentatsideseamtomaintainwaistsize.Lowerthewaiststitchinglineonthebackskirtpatterntheamountneeded.Folddartstowardcenterandblendstitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.

FITTINGHIPS

Whengarmentsfitwellatthehipline,theyfeelcomfortablewhetheryouarestandingorsitting.Theyalsolooksmooth,withoutstrainedwrinklesorexcessfabricfolds.

Beforeadjustingforwidth,makeanybasiclengtheningorshorteningadjustmentsbelowthewaistline.Lengthadjustmentsmayeliminatetheneedforadjustingpatternhipcircumference.Ifyouhaveonehiphigherthantheother,itmaybenecessarytomakeacopyofthepatternandadjustaseparatepatternpieceforeachsideofthebody.Ifyourhipsarefullerorslimmerthantheaverage,adjustthepatterntoincludetherightamountofease.Forwearingcomfort,theremustbeaminimumof2"(5cm)ease,orextraroom,atthehiplineofthegarmentforsizessmallerthan16.Forsize16orlarger,theremustbeatleast2½"(6.5cm)ofease.Youmayneedmorethanminimumeaseforgoodfitifyouhavefullhipsorareusingathickfabric.Youmayneedlessifyouareworkingwithaknit.

HowtoDeterminePatternAdjustments

Measurehips,asviewedfromtheside,whereseatprotrudesmost,keepingtapemeasureparalleltofloor.Determinewherehiplinefallsbymeasuringatsideseamfromwaisttofullestpartofhips.Add2"to2½"(5to6.5cm)minimumeasetomeasurement.

Markpatternsideseamatpointwherefullestpartofhiplinefalls.Lapthebackandfrontpatternpiecesatmark.Measurehiplinefromcenterfronttocenterbackatthisposition.Doublethismeasurementtoarriveattotalfinishedcircumference.Comparewithhipmeasurementpluseasetodetermineifadjustmentisneeded.

FullHips

Poorfitcauseshorizontalwrinklesacrosships.Skirtcupsunderseatinback.Skirttendstorideup,becausethereisnotenoughwidthathipleveltofitfullhips.Patternneedsenlargingathipline.

MajorAdjustment

Markhiplineatsideseamofbackandfrontpatterns.Addone-fourththeamountneededateachsideseam,nexttomark.Addmaximumof3/8"(1cm)perseamallowancefortotalof¾"(2cm)perseam.

Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesfromhiptowaistwithcurvedruler.Marknewstitchingandcuttinglinesfromhiptohemwithstraightedge.

MinorAdjustment

Drawalineparalleltothehiplineapproximately5"(12.5cm)belowthewaistline.Drawasecondlineparalleltolengthwisegrainlinefromendoffirstlinetohem.Cutonlines.

Slidesectionouttoaddone-fourththeamountneeded.Addmaximumof1"(2.5cm)tosizesunder16fortotalof2"(5cm)perseam,and1½"(3.8cm)tosizes16andabovefortotalof3"(7.5cm)perseam.

Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesfromhiptowaistwithcurvedruler.Markthehipareatothehemwithastraightedge.

SmallHips

Poorfitcausesexcessfabrictodrapeinfoldsandlookbaggy.Skirthiplineistoobroadforfigurewithslenderhips.Patternwidthneedsreductionathipline,anddartsmayhavetobereduced.Ifdartsarereduced,sidewaistseammustbedecreasedequalamount,asonpage95.

MinorAdjustment

Markhiplineatsideseamonbackandfrontpatterns.Removeone-fourththeamountneededateachsideseam,nexttomark.Removeupto3/8"(1cm)perseamallowancefortotalof¾"(2cm)perseam.Marknewstitchingandcuttinglinesasinstep2(page100,top).

MajorAdjustment

Reducedartsizeasneeded.Makesidewaistadjustment(page95).Drawadjustmentlineandcutasformajoradjustmentforfullhips,step1,opposite.Slidesectionintoremoveone-fourthoftheextrawidthatthehipline.Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesfromwaisttohipareawithcurvedruler.Markhipareatohemwithstraightedge.

UnevenHips

Poorfitcausesdiagonalwrinklesononeside.Fabricisoffgraininhiparea.Onehipmaybefuller,slimmer,orhigherthanotherhip.Makenecessarywidthadjustmentsindartsandsideseam.

HowtoAdjustPatternforOneHighHip

Tracefrontandbackskirtpatternpieces.Labelrightandleftsides.Drawadjustmentlineonpoorfitside5"(12.5cm)long,paralleltolengthwisegrainline,beginningmidwaybetweensideseamanddart.Drawasecondlineatrightanglefrombottomoffirstlinetosideseam.Cutonadjustmentlines.

Slideadjustmentsectionuptoaddnecessarylengthforfittinghighhip.Tapepaperunderneath.Adjustskirtbackandfronttomatch.Folddartsortucksastheywillbepressed.Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesatwaistandsideseams.

SeamsAseamisthebasicelementinallgarmentconstruction.Itiscreatedbystitchingtwopiecesoffabrictogether,usually5/8"(1.5cm)fromthecutedge.Perfectseamsarethemostobvioussignofawell-madegarment.Puckered,crooked,orunevenseamsspoilthefitaswellasthelook.

Inadditiontoholdingagarmenttogether,seamscanbeusedasadesignelement.Seamsplacedinunusuallocationsortopstitchedwithcontrastingthreadaddinteresttoagarment.Mostplainseamsrequireaseamfinishtopreventraveling.Aseamfinishisawayoftreatingorenclosingtherawedgesofseamallowancessotheyaremoredurableanddonotravel.

Variationsoftheplainseamincludebound,encased,topstitched,andeasedseams.Some,suchastheflat-fellseam,addstrengthorshape.Others,suchasFrenchorboundseams,improvetheappearanceofthegarmentormakeitlongerwearing.

TechniquesforMachine-StitchingSeams

Positionthebulkofthefabrictotheleftofthemachineneedle,withcutedgestotheright.Supportandguidefabricgentlywithbothhandsasyoustitch.

Useguidelinesetchedonthethroatplateofthemachinetohelpyousewstraightseams.Forextrahelp,useaseamguideorstripofmaskingtapeplacedthedesireddistancefromtheneedle.

Usethethreadcutterlocatedatthebackofthepresserbarassemblytocutthreadsafterstitching.Oruseathreadclippertocutthreads.

HowtoSewaPlainSeam

Pinseam,rightsidesoffabrictogether,atregularintervals,matchingnotchesandothermarkingsprecisely.Placepinsatrightanglestoseamline,usually5/8"(1.5cm)fromedge,withpointsjustbeyondseamlineandheadstowardcutedgeforeasyremoval.

Securestitchingwithbackstitching.Thenstitchforwardonseamline,removingpinsasyoucometothem.Backstitch½"(1.3cm)atendtosecurethestitching.Trimthreads.

Pressoverstitchinglineonwrongsidetopressseamflat.Thisblendsstitchesintofabric.Thenpressseamopen.Useyourfingersorthebluntendofapointturnertoopenseamsasyoupress.Ifseamiscurved,suchashipareaofskirtorpants,pressovercurvedareaofatailor’sham.

HowtoSewCurvedSeams

Stitchalineofreinforcementstitchingjustinsideseamlineofinnercurveofcenterpanel.Clipintoseamallowanceallthewaytothestitchinglineatintervalsalongthecurve.

Pininnerandoutercurves,rightsidestogetherwithclippededgeontop,spreadingclippedinnercurvetomatchallmarkingsandfitoutercurve.

Stitchonseamlinewithclippedseamontop,usingshorterstitchthanusualforthefabricandbeingcarefultokeepthelowerlayeroffabricsmooth.

Cutoutwedge-shapednotchesintheseamallowanceofoutercurvebymakingsmallfoldsinseamallowanceandcuttingatslightangle.Becarefulnottocutintostitchingline.

Pressseamflattoembedandsmooththestitches.Turnoverandpressontheotherside.

Pressseamopenovercurveoftailor’sham,usingtipofirononly.Donotpressintobodyofgarment.Ifnotpressedtocontour,seamlinesbecomedistortedandlookpulledoutofshape.

Encasedseamsdifferfromboundseamsinthatnoadditionalfabricorbindingisused.Thecutedgesofseamallowancesareenclosedwithintheseamitself.Encasedseamsarebestsuitedtolightweightfabrics,sincetheadditionalbulkcreatedisnotaproblem.Theseseamsareespeciallyappropriateforsheerfabrics,becausenoraworcontrastingedgesshowthrough.Useastraightstitchfootandneedleplate(page12)tokeepsheerfabricfrombeingpulledintothefeed.

ENCASEDSEAMS

Useencasedseamsforblouses,unlinedjackets,lingerie,orsheercurtains.Theyarealsoanexcellentchoiceforchildren’sclothes,becausetheystanduptoruggedwearandrepeatedlaundering.

Selfboundseambeginswithaplainseam.Oneseamallowanceisthenfoldedovertheotherandstitchedagain.

Frenchseamlookslikeaplainseamontherightsideandanarrowtuckonthewrongside.Itbeginsbystitchingthewrongsidesofthefabrictogether.Thisseamisdifficulttosewincurvedareas,soisbestusedonstraightseams.

MockFrenchseambeginswithaplainseam.Seamallowancesaretrimmed,foldedtotheinsideandstitchedalongthefolds.TheselfboundandmockFrenchseamscanbeusedincurvedorstraightareas.

HowtoSewaSelf-boundSeam

Stitchaplainseam.Donotpressopen.Trimoneseamallowanceto1/8"(3mm).

Turnundertheuntrimmedseamallowance1/8"(3mm).Thenturnagain,enclosingthenarrowtrimmededgeandbringingthefoldededgetotheseamline.

Stitchonthefoldededge,ascloseaspossibletofirstlineofstitching.Pressseamtooneside.

HowtoSewaFrenchSeam

Pinwrongsidesoffabrictogether.Stitch3/8"(1cm)fromedgesonrightsideoffabric.

Trimseamallowanceto1/8"(3mm).Foldrightsidestogether,withstitchinglineexactlyonfold.Pressflat.

Stitch¼"(6mm)fromfold.Thisstepencasescutedges.Checkrightsidetobesurenoraveledthreadsareshowing.Pressseamtooneside.

HowtoSewaMockFrenchSeam

Stitchaplainseam.Trimbothseamallowancesto½"(1.3cm).Pressopen.

Press¼"(6mm)oneachseamallowancetowardinsideofseam,socutedgesmeetatstitchingline.

Stitchedgestogether,stitchingasclosetofoldsaspossible.Pressseamtooneside.

HowtoSewaFlat-FellSeam

Pinfabric,wrongsidestogether,atseamlinewithpinheadstowardrawedges.Stitch,takingtheusual5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowance.

Pressseamallowancestooneside.Trimthelowerseamallowanceto1/8"(3mm).

Turnunder¼"(6mm)ontheupperseamallowanceandpress.

Pinfoldedseamallowancetogarment,concealingtrimmedloweredge.

Edgestitchonfold,removingpinsasyoucometothem.

Finishedseamisareversibleflatseamwithtwovisiblerowsofstitchingoneachside.

HowtoSewaMockFlat-fellSeam

Stitchaplainseam.Pressseamallowancestooneside.Trimlowerseamallowanceto¼"(6mm).

Topstitchonrightsideofgarment,¼"to½"(6mmto1.3cm)fromtheseamline.Edgestitchclosetotheseamline.

Finishedseamlooksliketheflat-fellseamontherightside,buthasoneexposedseamallowanceonwrongside.

STRETCHSEAMS

Stretchfabricsforcasualoractionwearincludejersey,stretchterry,stretchvelour,andotherknits.Stretchwovenfabricsincludestretchdenim,stretchpoplin,andstretchcorduroy.Forswimwearandleotards,Lycraknitsareavailable.Seamsinthesefabricsmuststretchor“give”withthefabric.Somesewingmachineshavespecialknitstitchesthatincorporatestretch.

Testtheseamorknitstitchonascrapoffabrictodetermineitsappropriatenesstotheweightandstretchinessofthefabric.Someofthespecialknitstitchesaremoredifficulttoripthanstraightstitching,sobesurethegarmentfitsbeforestitching.Becauseknitsdonotravel,theyusuallydonotrequireseamfinishing.

Double-stitchedseamgivesaninsurancerowofstitchingtoaseam.Usethismethodifyourmachinedoesnotzigzag.

Straightandzigzagseamcombinesastraightseamwiththestretchinessofzigzag.Thisisasuitablefinishforknitsthattendtocurlalongtherawedges.

Narrowzigzagseamisusedforknitsthatdonotcurlalongedges.Itisafast,easystretchseam.

Straightstretchstitchisformedbyaforward/backwardmotionofreverseactionmachines.Itmakesastrong,stretchyseamappropriateforstressedareassuchasarmholes.

Straightwithoveredgestitchhasaspecialpatternwhichcombinesa

straightstretchstitchwithdiagonalstitching.Itjoinsandfinishestheseaminonestep.

Elasticstretchstitchisanexcellentchoiceforswimwearandleotards.Thestitchcombinesanarrowandwidezigzagpattern.

Tapedseamsareusedinareaswhereyoudonotwantstretch,suchasshoulderseams.

HowtoSewaTapedSeam

Pinfabric,rightsidestogether,sothattwilltapeorseambindingispinnedoverseamline.Positionseambindingsoitlaps3/8"(1cm)intotheseamallowance.

Stitch,usingdoublestitched,straightandzigzag,overedge,ornarrowzigzagseam.Pressseamopenortooneside,dependingonselectedseam.

Trimseamallowanceclosetostitching,takingcarenottocutintoseambinding.

Aseamfinishlendsacouturetouchandimprovedappearancetoanygarment.Finishseamstopreventwovenfabricsfromravelingandknitseamsfromcurling.Seamfinishesalsostrengthenseamsandhelpthemstanduptorepeatedwashingsandwearing,makingthegarmentlooknewlonger.

SEAMFINISHES

Seamsshouldbefinishedastheyarestitched,beforebeingcrossedbyanotherseam.Afinishshouldnotaddbulkorshowanobviousimprintontherightsideofthegarmentafteritispressed.Ifyouarenotsurewhichseamfinishtouse,tryseveralonafabricscraptoseewhichworksbest.

Theseamfinishesshownhereallbeginwithaplainseam.Theycanalsobeusedasedgefinishesforfacingsandhems.

Selvagefinishrequiresnoextrastitching.Appropriateforstraightseamsofwovenfabrics,itrequiresadjustingthepatternlayoutsothattheseamiscutontheselvage.

Stitchedandpinkedseamfinishissuitableforfirmlywovenfabrics.Itisaquickandeasyfinishthatpreventsravelingandcurling.

Turnedandstitchedfinish(alsocalledclean-finished)issuitableforlight-tomedium-weightwovenfabrics.

Zigzagseamfinishespreventravelingandaregoodforknits,becausetheyhavemoregivethanstraightstitchedfinishes.Thesefinishesusethebuilt-institchesonautomaticzigzagmachines.

BasicSeamFinishes

Selvagefinish.Adjustpatternlayoutsothatedgesofseamarecutonselvage.Topreventshrinkingandpuckering,clipdiagonallyintobothselvagesat3"to4"(7.5to10cm)intervalsafterseamisstitched.

Stitchedandpinkedfinish.Stitch¼"(6mm)fromedgeofeachseamallowance.Pressseamopen.Trimclosetostitchingwithpinkingorscallopingshears.

HowtoSewaTurnedandStitchedFinish

Stitch1/8"to¼"(3to6mm)fromedgeofeachseamallowance.Onstraightedges,thisstitchingmaynotbenecessary.

Turnunderseamallowanceonstitchingline.Thestitchinghelpstheedgeturnunder,especiallyoncurves.

Stitchclosetoedgeoffold,throughseamallowanceonly.Pressseamopen.

HowtoSewaZigzagFinish

Setzigzagstitchformaximumwidth.Stitchnear,butnotover,edgeofeachseamallowance.

Trimclosetostitching,beingcarefulnottocutintostitching.

OtherZigzagFinishes

Overedgezigzagfinish.Trimseamedgesevenly,ifnecessary.Adjustzigzagstitchlengthandwidthtosuitfabric.Stitchclosetoedgeofeachseamallowancesothatstitchesgoovertheedge.Iffabricpuckers,loosentensionbyturningtoalowernumber.

3-stepzigzagfinish.Usestitchthatputsthreeshortstitchesinspaceofonezigzagwidth.Setmachineforpatternstitchandadjustlengthandwidthtosuitfabric.Stitchclosetoedgeofseamallowance.Onsomemachines,aserpentinestitchgivessameresults.Trimclosetostitchingline.

BOUNDSEAMFINISHES

Thesefinishestotallyenclosethecutedgeofseamallowancesandpreventraveling.Theyalsoenhancetheappearanceoftheinsideofthegarment.Boundseamfinishesareagoodchoiceforunlinedjackets,especiallythosemadeofheavyfabricsorthosewhichraveleasily.

Themostcommonlyusedboundfinishesarethebiasbound,tricotboundandHongKongfinishes.Medium-weightfabricssuchaschino,denim,linen,gabardine,andflannel,andheavyweightfabricssuchaswools,velvet,velveteen,andcorduroycanutilizeanyofthethree.Begineachofthesefinishesbysewingaplainseam.Boundfinishescanalsobeusedonhemorfacingedges.

Biasboundistheeasiestboundfinish.Usepurchaseddouble-foldbiastape,availableincotton,rayonorpolyester,tomatchthefashionfabric.

Tricotboundisaninconspicuousfinishformostfabrics.Precutsheernylonstripsareavailablein5/8"(1.5cm)or¼"(3.2cm)width.Usethenarrowerwidthforbindingseams.

HongKongfinishisacouturetechniqueusedondesignerclothing,butbecauseitissoeasyandgivessuchafinefinishtotheinsideofagarment,ithasbecomeafavoriteofmanyhomesewers.

HowtoSewaHongKongFinish

Cutbiasstripsofliningfabric,1¼"(3.2cm)wide.Joinstripsasnecessary(page80)toformstripstwicethelengthoftheseamstobefinished.

Alignbiasstriponrightsideofseamallowance.Stitch¼"(6mm)fromcutedge,stretchingbiasslightlyasyoustitch.Useedgeofpresserfootasstitchingguide.

Trimseamallowanceofheavyfabricto1/8"(3mm)toreducebulk.Lightweightfabricdoesnotneedtobetrimmed.

Pressbiasstripbackovercutedgeofseamallowance.Foldbiasstriptotheunderside,enclosingthecutedge.

Pinbiasstripinplacethroughalllayers.Cutedgeofbiasstripneedsnofinishing,sinceabiascutdoesnotravel.

Stitchintheditch(thegroovewherethebiasstripandfabricwerestitchedtogether).Thisstitchingishiddenontherightsideandcatchescutedgeofbiasstripunderneath.Presslightly.

SergerSeamsandSeamFinishesSergedseamscanbeusedonmanygarments.Yourinstructionmanualmayincludesuggestionsforwherestitchesareused.Garmentstyle,fabricselection,andpersonalpreferencewillhelpyoudecidewhichseamstouse.Thesergedseamaloneisnotalwayssuitableforgarmentconstruction.Manyseamsaresewnusingboththesergerandtheconventionalmachine.Forexample,pants,jackets,orgarmentsrequiringadjustablefit,orseamsthatwillbesubjectedtoagreatamountofstress,shouldbesewnwithapressed-openconventionalseamandoveredgedseamallowances.

TypesofSeamsandSeamFinishes

Overlockseams(page16)areappropriateforwovensandknits.Choosethe3-threadoverlockforlooselyfittedornonstressedseams.Themoresecure4-threadand5-threadsafetystitchesareusedprimarilyforwovensbecausethechainstitchmaypopwhenstretched.The3-threadand4-threadmocksafetystitches,designedfordurablestretchseams,mayalsobeusedonwovens.

Overedgeseamfinish(page116)forconventionalseamsisusedwhenitisdesirabletokeeptheentire5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowance.Itisthebestchoicefortailoredgarmentssewnfromwools,linens,andsilksuitings.Itisalsorecommendedwheneverfitisuncertaintoallowforlettingoutseams.

Reinforcedseam(page116)isrecommendedforseamsthatwillbestressed.

Frenchseam(page116)isusedforsheersandlooselywovenfabrics.Theseamwilladdbulk,soitisbestusedonfull,gathereditemssuchasskirtsandcurtains.

Rolledseam(page117)maybeusedinsteadofFrenchseamsforsheersthatarefirmlywovenandforlaces.

Mockflat-fellseam(page117)isusedfordenimandotherheavyweightwovenfabrics.

Reversiblelappedseam(page117)isusedforreversiblegarmentsorforthick,looselywovenfabricstoprovideaddedstrength.

Gatheredseam(page118)isfinishedinoneeasystepusingdifferentialfeedandashirringfoot.Analternatemethodusestheconventionalmachinewiththeserger.

Mockflatlockseam(page118)isusedforadecorativeeffect,withdecorativethreadusedintheupperlooper.

Flatlockonafold(page119)isusedforthedecorativeeffectofaflatlockseamonfabricthathasbeenfoldedandstitched.

TypesofStabilizedSeams

Thereareseveralmethodsforstabilizingseamsinsergergarmentconstruction.Thetypeoffabricyouaresewingandthedesiredeffectwilldeterminewhichmethodyouchoose.

Fusiblestabilizedseam(page119)usesfusibleinterfacingstripstostabilizeseams.Interfacingcanalsobeusedasastablebasefordecorativeedgefinishesonstretchyknitorbias-cutfabrics.

Elasticstabilizedseam(page119)usestransparentelastictoallowfullstretchandrecoveryinasergedseam,butpreventsfabricfromstretchingoutofshape.

Nonstretchstabilizedseam(page119)usestwilltape,seamtape,orribbontopreventstretchingofthefabricattheseamline.

Slight-stretchstabilizedseam(page119)usestricotbiasbindingtoreinforceandstabilizeaseamwhereslightstretchisdesired.UsethismethodforstabilizingseamsinsweaterknitsandT-shirtknits,whichneedsupportwithoutcompletelyrestrictingthestretchofthefabric.

BasicSeamsandSeamFinishes

Overedgeseamfinishforconventionalseam.Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seam,rightsidestogether,usingconventionalmachine.Stitchseamallowances,slightlytrimmingrawedge,usingoveredgeoroverlockstitch.

Reinforcedseam.Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seam,rightsidestogether,usingconventionalmachine;usenarrowzigzagonmoderate-stretchknits.Sergeseamallowancestogether1/8"(3mm)fromseamline.

Frenchseam.Overedgeseam,wrongsidestogether,withleftneedlepositioned¼"(6mm)insideseamallowance.Foldfabric,rightsidestogether,enclosingoveredgedfabric;press.Straight-stitchclosetoenclosedstitches,usingzipperfootontheconventionalmachine.

Rolledseam.Placefabricrightsidestogether.Stitchseam,usingarolledhemstitch,withneedlepositionedonseamline;trimexcessseamallowance.Press.Usetricotbiasbindingtostabilizelaceedge,asshownonpage119,ifdesired.

HowtoSewaMockFlat-FellSeam

Placefabricrightsidestogether.Stitch,usingaconventionalmachine.Sergeseamallowancestogether,trimmingslightly.

Pressseamallowancetowardoneside;topstitchfromrightsidenexttoseamline,usingaconventionalmachine.Topstitchagain,¼"(6mm)away,throughalllayers.

HowtoSewaReversibleLappedSeam

Stitcheachsingle-layerseamallowance,usingoveredgeoroverlockstitchandaligningneedletoseamline.

Lapgarmentsectionssoseamlinesmeet;glue-baste.

Straight-stitchthroughalllayers1/8"(3mm)fromsergedstitches,frombothsidesofgarment,usingconventionalmachine.

HowtoSewaGatheredSeam

Replaceregularpresserfootwithshirringfoot;setdifferentialfeedtoalargernumber.Alignedgesoftwofabriclayerstogether;positionlayerssofabrictobegatheredisonthebottom.Overlocktheseamwithneedlepositionedontheseamline.

AlternateMethod

Basteinseamallowancenearseamline,usingconventionalmachine.Overedgeseamallowance,slightlytrimmingrawedge.Alignover-edgedfabrictocorrespondingsection,rightsidestogether,matchingasnecessary;pin.Pullbobbinthreadandsergerneedlethread,gatheringfabrictofit.

Stitchseam,usingconventionalmachine.Overedgeseamallowances,usingserger.Or,overlockseam,withleftneedlepositionedonseamline,trimmingawayexcessseamallowance;removepinsastheyapproachknives.

HowtoSewaMockFlatlockSeam

Usedecorativethreadinupperlooper.Sergefabric,wrongsidestogether;pressseamtoonesidewithdecorativethreadontop.

Topstitchdecorativesergedseamthroughalllayers,usingconventionalmachine.

HowtoFlatlockonaFoldofFabric

Markstitchplacementlineonrightsideoffabric.Fold,wrongsidestogether,onmarkedline.Adjustsergerforflatlockstitch.Placefabricslightlytotheleftofknives.

Sergeseamwithouttrimmingfoldoffabric.Positionstitcheshalfonandhalfofffabric.

Openthefabric,andpullthestitchesflat.

StabilizedSeam

Fusiblestabilizedseam.Cut¾"(2cm)stripoffusibleknitinterfacingthelengthoftheseam.Fusetowrongsideofgarment.Stitchseam.

Elasticstabilizedseam.Useelastictapefoot,ifavailable,oruseregularpresserfoot;adjustfoottensiontodragslightlyagainstelastic.Sergeseamwithouttrimmingelastic;increasedifferentialfeedtoeasefabric,ifdesired.

Nonstretchstabilizedseam.Sergeasinelasticstabilizedseam,left;usetwilltape,seamtape,orribbon,andadjustfoottensionsoitdoesnotdragonstabilizer.Decreasedifferentialfeedslightly,ifdesired,topreventpuckeringofseam.

Slight-stretchstabilizedseam.Cutastripoftricotbiasbindingthelengthoftheseam.Increasedifferentialfeedslightly,toeasefabricandpreventoverstretchingseam.Sergethroughrelaxedstrip;trimexcessbindingclosetostitches.

DartsAdartisusedtoshapeaflatpieceoffabrictofitbust,waist,hip,orelbowcurves.Therearetwotypesofdarts.Asingle-pointeddartiswideatoneendandpointedattheother.Ashapeddarthaspointsatbothends.Itisusuallyusedatthewaistline,withthepointsextendingtothebustandhips.Besidesprovidingacloserfit,dartsarealsousedtocreatespecialdesignertouchesanduniquestyles.Perfectdartsarestraightandsmooth,notpuckeredattheends.Thedartsontherightandleftsidesofthegarmentshouldhavethesameplacementandlength.

DartTechniques

Shapeddartsarestitchedintwosteps,beginningatthewaistlineandstitchingtowardeachpoint.Overlapstitchingatwaistabout1"(2.5cm).Clipdartfoldatwaistlineandmidwayalongpoints,towithin1/8"to¼"(3to6mm)ofstitchingtorelievestrainandallowdarttocurvesmoothly.

Widedartsanddartsinbulkyfabricsshouldbeslashedopenonthefoldlineandtrimmedto5/8"(1.5cm)orless.Slashtowithin½"(1.3cm)ofpoint.Pressdartopenandpresspointflat.

Pressdartsoverthecurveofatailor’shamtomaintainthebuiltincurve.Verticaldartsareusuallypressedtowardthecenterfrontorcenterback.Horizontaldartsareusuallypresseddownward.

HowtoSewaDart

Markdartusingappropriatemarkingmethodforfabric.Markpointofdartwithhorizontalline.

Folddartoncenterline,matchingstitchinglinesandmarkingsatthewideend,thepointandinbetween.Pininplace,withheadsofpinstowardfoldededgeforeasyremovalasyoustitch.

Stitchfromwideendtopointofdart.Backstitchatbeginningofstitchingline,thencontinuestitchingtowardpoint,removingpinsasyoucometothem.

Tapertopointofdart.When½"(1.3cm)remains,shortenstitchlengthto12to16stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Takelasttwoorthreestitchesdirectlyonfold.Donotbackstitchatthepoint,becausethismaycausepuckering.Continuestitchingoffedgeoffabric.

Raisepresserfootandpulldarttowardfront.About1"(2.5cm)backfrompointofdart,lowerpresserfootandsecurethreadbystitchingseveraltimesinfoldofthedartwithstitchlengthsetat0.Clipthreadsclosetoknot.

Pressfoldededgeofdartflat,beingcarefulnottocreasefabricbeyondthepoint.Thenplacedartovercurveoftailor’shamandpressinproperdirection(opposite).Foraneat,flatfinish,pressdartsbeforetheyarestitchedintoaseam.

GathersAsoft,femininegarmentlineisoftenshapedwithgathers.Theymaybefoundatwaistlines,cuffs,yokes,necklines,orsleevecaps.Softandsheerfabricsproduceadrapedlookwhengathered;crispfabricscreateabillowyeffect.

Gathersstartwithtwostitchinglinesonalongpieceoffabric.Thestitchinglinesarethenpulledateachendtodrawupthefabric.Finally,thegatheredpieceissewntoashorterlengthoffabric.

Thestitchlengthforgatheringislongerthanforordinarysewing.Useastitchlengthof6to8stitchesperinch(2.5cm)formedium-weightfabrics.Forsoftorsheerfabrics,use8to10stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Experimentwiththefabrictoseewhichstitchlengthgathersbest.Alongerstitchhelpstodrawupthefabric,butashorterstitchgivesmorecontrolwhenadjustinggathers.

Beforeyoustitch,loosentheupperthreadtension.Thebobbinstitchingispulledtodrawupthegathers,andaloosertensionmakesthiseasier.

Ifthefabricisheavyorstiff,useheavy-dutythreadinthebobbin.Acontrastingcolorinthebobbinalsohelpsdistinguishitfromtheupperthread.

HowtoSewBasicGathers

Stitchascant5/8"(1.5cm)fromrawedgeonrightsideoffabric,startingandendingatseamline.Loosenuppertensionandlengthenstitchesappropriatetofabric.Stitchasecondrowinseamallowance,¼"(6mm)awayfromfirstrow.Thisdoublerowofstitchinggivesbettercontrolingatheringthanasinglerow.

Pinstitchededgetocorrespondinggarmentsection,rightsidestogether,atseams,notches,centerlines,andothermarkings.Fabricwilldroopbetweenpins.Iftherearenomarkingstoguideyou,dividebothedgesintoquartersandpinoutfullnessevenly.

Pullbothbobbinthreadsfromoneend,slidingfabricalongthreadtogather.Whenhalfthegatheredsectionfitsthestraightedge,securebobbinthreadsbytwistinginafigureeightaroundpin.Pullbobbinthreadsfromotherendtogatherremaininghalf.

Pingathersinplaceatfrequentintervals.Distributegathersevenlybetweenpins.Resetstitchlengthandtensionforregularsewing.

Stitch,gatheredsideup,justoutsidegatheringlines.Adjustgathersbetweenpinsasyoustitch.Holdgatherstautwithfingersonbothsidesofneedletokeepgatherseven.

Trimseamallowancesofanyseamsthathavebeensewnintothestitchingline,trimmingoffcornersatadiagonal.

Pressseamallowanceonwrongside,usingtipofiron.Thenopenoutgarmentandpressseaminthedesireddirection:towardgathersforpuffylook,towardgarmentforsmootherlook.

Pressintogatherswithpointofirononrightsideofgarment,liftingironasyoureachseam.Donotpressacrossgathers;thiswillflattenthem.

GatheringwithElastic

Gathersformedwithelasticoffercomfortableandeasyfit.Thistechniqueensuresuniformgathersandcreatesshapethatisrelaxedandnotasclosetothebodyasothershapebuilders.

Elasticcanbestitcheddirectlytothegarmentorinsertedinacasing.Acasingisatunnelforelastic,createdwithaturned-underedgeorwithbiastapestitchedtothefabric.Chooseanelasticthatissuitabletothesewingtechniqueandareaofthegarmentwhereitisused(page33).

Elasticinacasingcanbeanywidth.Useafirm,braided,ornon-rollelastic.Braidedelastichaslengthwiseribs,andnarrowswhenstretched.

Stitchedelasticcallsforwovenorknittedelasticswhicharesoft,strong,andcomfortabletowearnexttotheskin.Onshortareassuchassleeveorlegedges,itiseasiesttoapplytheelasticwhilethegarmentsectionisflat.Atawaistline,overlaptheendsoftheelasticandstitchtoformacirclebeforepinningtothegarment.

Cutelasticthelengthrecommendedbythepattern.Thislengthincludesaseamallowance.Toaddelasticwhenthepatterndoesnotcallforit,cuttheelasticslightlyshorterthanthebodymeasurementplusseamallowance.Allow1"(2.5cm)extraforastitchedelasticseam,½"(1.3cm)extraforoverlappingelasticinacasing.

HowtoSewStitchedElastic

Foldelasticandfabricintofourths.Markfoldlinesofelasticandgarmentwithpins.

Pinelastictowrongsideofgarment,matchingmarkingpins.Leave½"(1.3cm)seamallowanceateachendofelastic.

Stitchelastictofabric,stretchingelasticbetweenpins,withonehandbehindneedleandotherhandatnextpin.Applywithazigzag,multistitchzigzag,ortworowsofstraightstitching,onealongeachedge.

HowtoSewElasticinCasing(waistlineseam)

Pinsheerbiastricotstriporbiastapethatis¼"(6mm)widerthantheelastictoinsideofgarmentalongmarkedcasinglines,beginningandendingatonesideseam.Turnunder¼"(6mm)ateachendofbiastapeandpintoseamline.Foreasyapplication,workonironingboardwithgarmentwrongsideout.

Stitchtapeclosetoedges,leavingopeningatseamtoinsertelastic.Donotbackstitchatendsofstitching,becausethisstitchingshowsontherightsideofthegarment.Instead,pullallfourendstoinsideandknot.

Insertelasticthroughcasingusingabodkinorsafetypin,takingcarenottotwistelastic.Placealargesafetypinacrossfreeendofelastictopreventitfrompullingthrough.

Lapendsofelastic½"(1.3cm)andsewtogetherwithstraightorzigzagstitches,stitchingforward,backstitching,andforwardagain.Clipthreadends.Easeelasticbackintocasing.

Slipstitchendsofcasingtogether.Distributegathersevenlyalongtheelastic.

Sleeves

Whethershortorlong,allsleevesareoneofthreebasicstyles:set-in,kimono,orraglan.

Set-insleeveshavearoundedcapthatislargerthanthecorrespondingpartofthearmhole.Thecapmustbeeasedtofitsmoothlyintoplace.Asasofterfashiondetail,set-insleevesmayalsohavegathersorpleatsinthesleevecap.Thetraditionalmethodofsettinginsleevesusestworowsofeasestitchingonthesleevetofitthecapintoplace.Theflatmethod,opposite,isusedforamantailoredshirtsleeve,whichhaslesseasethanclassicset-instyles.Thesleeveisinsertedbeforethesleeveorgarmentsideseamsarestitched.

Kimonosleevesextendwithoutseamsfromgarmentfrontandbacksections.Shouldershapingisrounded,asinraglansleeves.Kimonosleevesareoftenlooselyfittedanddrapesoftlyunderthearms.Evenloose-fittingkimonosleevesaresubjecttostressintheunderarmarea.Reinforcethiscurvedseamwithtape,tworowsofstitching,shortenedstitches,orareinforcingstretchstitch.

Raglansleeveshaveaslantedseaminthefrontandtheback.Mostraglansleeveshaveaseamthatcurvesovertheshoulderandextendsthelengthofthesleeve.Thisseamshapestheshoulderinaroundedway.Insomepatternsdarts,insteadofseams,shapetheshoulders.Formorecomfortandbetterfit,stitchthesleeveandsideseambeforesettinginthesleeve.

Shapingaids,suchassleevepuffsandshoulderpads,areneededtocompletesomesleevetreatments.Sleevepuffsaresmallpadsthatsupportgatheredsleevecaps.Puffsliftgatherssothesleevehangsstraightandsmooth.

TipsforSewingSleeves

Patternmarkingssuchasnotches,dots,andshoulderseammarkshelptopositionset-insleeve.Morefabricmustbeeasedatthebackofthesleevethanatthefront.Nofabricshouldbeeasedintothearmholeatthetopofthesleevecapfor1"(2.5cm)atcenterdot.

Notchesonpatternpiecestellwhichwaysleeveandarmholeedgesshouldface.Doublenotchesindicatethebackofthesleeveandarmhole.Asinglenotchindicatesthefront.Marknotcheswith¼"(6mm)snipsintotheseamallowance.

HowtoSewaShirtSleeve(flatmethod)

Pinsleevetoarmhole,rightsidestogether,matchingnotchesandsmalldots.Pinongarmentside,easingsleevecaptofit.

Stitchsleevetoarmholewithgarmentsideup.Actionoffeedeasessleevetofitarmhole.

Pressseamawayfromsleeve.Trimgarmentseamallowanceto¼"(6mm)formockflat-fellseam.

Topstitchsleeveseamontherightsideofgarment¼"(6mm)fromtheseamline.

Edgestitchclosetoseamline.

Pinsideseamofgarmentandsleevetogether.Stitchinonecontinuousseam.Reinforceunderarmareawithshortstitches,orusemockflat-fellseam.

HowtoSewaSetinSleeve

Easestitchcapofsleeve(theareabetweenfrontandbacknotches)onrightside,slightlyinsideseamline.Easestitchsleevecapagain,3/8"(1cm)fromedge.

Stitchunderarmsleeveseam,rightsidestogether.Pressseamflat,thenpressseamopen.Usesleeveboardorseamrolltopreventimpressionofseamontopofsleeve.

Turnsleeverightsideout.Turngarmentinsideout.Insertsleeveintoarmhole,rightsidestogether,matchingnotches,smalldotmarkings,underarmseam,andshoulderline.Insertpinsonseamlineforbestcontrolofease.

Drawupbobbinthreadsofeasestitchinglinesuntilcapfitsarmhole.Distributefullnessevenly,leaving1"(2.5cm)flat(uneased)atshoulderseamattopofsleevecap.

Pinsleevetoarmholeatcloseintervals,usingmorepinsinfrontandbackwherethebulkoftheeaseislocated.

Checksleevefromrightsideforsmoothfitandcorrectdrape.Adjustifnecessary.Therecanbetinypleatsorpuckersinseamallowance,butnotinseamline.

Secureendsofeasestitchingthreadbymakingafigureeightovereachpinatfrontandbacknotches.

Stitchjustoutsideeasestitchingline,sleevesideup,startingatonenotch.Stitcharoundsleeve,paststartingpoint,toothernotch,reinforcingunderarmwithtworowsofstitching.Removepinsasyoucometothem.

Trimseamallowanceto¼"(6mm)betweennotchesatunderarmonly.Donottrimseamallowanceofsleevecap.Zigzagseamallowancestogether.

Pressseamallowanceofsleevecaponly,usingpressmittorendofsleeveboard.Donotpressintothesleeve.

CuffsLongsleevesonshirts,blouses,andlightweightjacketsoftenhavecuffswithbuttonedclosings.Inmanyways,sewingcuffsissimilartosewingcollars.Thetipsonpages135fortrimming,interfacing,andpressingcollarsapplytocuffs,too.

Applyinterfacingtohalfofaone-piececuff.Theinterfacedhalfofthecuffshowsontheoutsideofthefinishedsleeve.Thehalfwithoutinterfacingisfoldedtotheinsidetoformaself-facing.Interfaceonesectionofatwo-piececuff;thissectionbelongsontheoutsideofthesleeve.Theothercuffsectionformsthefacingontheinside.

Applycuffs,usingeithertopstitchingorhandfinishing.Topstitchingisusuallyfaster,becauseitisdonebymachine.Cuffswithouttopstitchingrequirehandfinishing,butnostitchesshowontheoutside.

Continuousboundplacketisaslitboundwithastripofself-fabric.Thebindingstripiscutonthelengthwisefabricgrainforstability.Whenthecuffisclosed,thisplacketishiddenfromview.

Shirt-styleplacketisabox-shapedsleeveopeningfinishedwithashapedfacing.Thefacingisfoldedandstitchedsotheedgesoftheplacketoverlapneatly.Adaptedfrommensweartailoring,thistypeofplacketisfoundonpatternswithtraditionaldetails.Whenthecuffisclosed,thepointedportionofthefacingshowsonashirt-styleplacket.

HowtoSewaContinuousBoundPlacket

Staystitchplacketonseamline.Useshortstitchesoneachsideofplacketpoint;takeonestitchacrosspoint.Slashtostitchatpoint.

Pressonebindingedgeunder¼"(6mm).Holdslashstraighttopinotherbindingedgetoplacket,rightsideofbindingtowrongsideofsleeve.

Stitchnexttosleevestaystitchingwith¼"(6mm)seamallowanceonplacket;usepresserfootasguide.Rawedgeslineupevenlyonlyatseamends.

Bringfoldedbindingedgeoverseam.Foldshouldbarelycoverseam.Edgestitchfoldthroughalllayersoffabric;press.

Lineupedgesofbindingonwrongsideofsleeve;stitchdiagonallyfromtopofbindingtokeepbindinginsidesleevewhencuffisfinished.

Pressbindingflatonunderlappingbackplacketedge.Pressbindingunderonoverlappingfrontplacketedge.Attachcuff(page133).

HowtoSewaShirt-stylePlacket

Pressunder¼"(6mm)seamallowancesonsidesofplacketfacing.Baste-markacrosstopofplacketopening.

Pressfacingsidesonfoldlines.Facingedgesshouldlineupwithmarkingforplacketopening.

Pressunderseamallowancesonpoint.Miterangledcornersbyfoldingseamallowanceacrosspointbeforefoldingsideedges.

Matchmarkingsonfacingandsleeveplacketopening,rightsideoffacingagainstwrongsideofsleeve;stitch.Slashto¼"(6mm)fromtop,thencliptocorners.

Pullfacingthroughopeningtorightsideofsleeve.Pressseamstowardplacketopening.Pressuptriangleattopofplacket.

Pinnarrowfacingedgetocoverplacketstitching;edgestitchinnerfoldoffacingthroughalllayers.

Foldothersideoffacingtocoverplacketstitching;pin.Edgestitchouterfoldofoverlapfacingtotopofopening.Pullthreadstoundersideandtie.

Arrangeoverlapsoedgesareflatandeven.Edgestitchindirectionofarrows,startingatloweredge,uparoundpoint,andacrossplacket.Securestitching.Attachcuff(opposite).

HowtoAttachaCuff

Foldcuffpatterninhalfandcutfusibleinterfacingfromfoldedpattern,eliminatingseamallowances.Fuseinterfacingtouppercuff.

Pressunderseamallowanceoninterfacededge.Foldcuffinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether;stitchends,openingoutpressedseamallowance.Trimandgradeseams.Pressseamsopen.Turncuffrightsideout.

Pinandstitchwrongsideofsleevetonon-interfacedsideofcuff,matchingmarkings.Besureendsofcuffareevenwithfinishedplacketedges.Donottrimseamallowances.

Wrapfreecuffsectionaroundplacketopeningtofrontofsleeveasfarasitwillgo.Therightsideofcuffisonrightsideofsleeve.Pinabout1"(2.5cm)fromplacketopening.

Stitchpinnedareaateachendofcuffexactlyonfirststitchingsofirstrowwillnotshowonoutside.Trimseamclosetostitchingtoeliminatebulk.

Turncuffrightsideout;press.Rightsideofcuffedgeisstitchedtosleeveforabout1"(2.5cm)nexttoplacketopening.

Edgestitchfoldededgeofcuffoverseam.Topstitch¼"(6mm)fromedgeofcuff.Foracuffthatisnottopstitched,attachtorightsideofsleeve,turntoinside,andslipstitchinplace.

CollarsCollarsareimportantdetailsworthyofcarefulsewing.Awell-madecollarcirclesyourneckwithoutripplingorpullingandkeepsitsneatappearancethroughrepeatedcleanings.Pointedtipsshouldmatch.Edgesshouldbesmoothandflat.

Interfacing,usuallycutfromthecollarpatternpiece,addsshape,support,andstability.Mostcollarstylesbenefitfromtheslightlyfirmfinishprovidedbyfusibleinterfacings.Selectthespecialcrisptypeoffusibleinterfacingsuitableformen’sshirtsifyouareworkingwithclassicshirtingfabricssuchasoxfordclothorbroadcloth.Ifyourfabricissoftordelicate,likechallisorcrepedechine,choosealightweightfusiblethatbondsatlowirontemperatures.

Convertiblecollarlookssimilartothenotchedcollarandlapelsonatailoredblazer.Thefrontfacingsfoldbacktoformthelapels.Thiscollarcanbewornopenorclosed.Thetopbuttonisusuallyomittedoncasualwear.

Shirtcollarwithastandcomesfrommensweartraditions.Therearetwoseparatesections:thecollar,andthestandbetweencollarandneckline.Insomepatternsthestandisanextensionofthecollarsection.Thiseliminatesoneseamandisfastertosew,butthesewingmethodsforbothversionsaresimilar.Foraprofessionallook,topstitchcollaredgesandstandseamsclosetotheedge.

Standingcollarmaybeshapedorcutdoubledepthandfoldedalongitslengthtoformaself-facing.

TipsforSewingCollars

Trimouteredgesofundercollarascant1/8"(3mm)sotheseamrollstowardtheundersideofthecollarwhenstitchedandturned.Pinrightsidesofcollarandundercollartogetherwithouteredgeseven.

Presscollarseamopenonapointpresser;turncollarrightsideout.Gentlypushcollarpointsoutwithapointturner.Presscollarflat,allowingtheseamtorollslightlytowardtheundercollar.

Rollcollarintoitsfinishedpositionandpin.Ifnecessary,trimrawedgeofundercollarsoitisevenwithuppercollaredge.Thismakesthecollarrollproperlywhenitissewninplace.

HowtoSewaPointedCollar(nonfusibleinterfacing)

Trimcornersofinterfacingdiagonallyjustinsideseamline.Machine-basteinterfacingtowrongsideofuppercollar,½"(1.3cm)fromedge.Triminterfacingclosetostitching.

Trimascant1/8"(3mm)fromouteredgesofundercollar.Thiskeepsundercollarfromrollingtorightsideaftercollarisstitchedtotheneckline.Pinrightsidesofcollarandundercollartogetherwithouteredgeseven.

Stitchonseamline,takingoneortwoshortstitchesdiagonallyacrosseachcornerinsteadofmakingasharppivot.Thismakesaneaterpointwhenthecollaristurned.

Trimcorners,firstacrossthepoint,closetostitching,thenatanangletotheseamoneachsideofthepoint.

Gradeseamallowancesbytrimmingundercollarseamallowanceto1/8"(3mm)andcollarto¼"(6mm).

Pressseamopenonapointpresser.Turncollarrightsideout.

Pushpointsoutgentlywithapointturner.

Presscollarflat,rollingseamslightlytotheundersidesoitwillnotshowonfinishedcollar.

HowtoSewaRoundCollar(fusibleinterfacing)

Trimseamallowancesfromfusibleinterfacingandfusetowrongsideofuppercollar,followingmanufacturer’sinstructionsonpackage.

Trimscant1/8"(3mm)fromoutsideedgeofundercollar,asforpointedcollar(opposite).Stitchrightsidesofcollarandfacingtogether,usingshorterstitchesoncurves.

Trimseamallowancesclosetostitchingline,usingpinkingshears.Or,gradeandclipseamallowances.Pressseamopen,eventhoughseamisenclosed.Thisflattensstitchinglineandmakescollareasiertoturn.

HowtoLineaFacingwithInterfacing

Stitchfusibleinterfacingtofacing,rightsidestogether,using¼"(6mm)seamallowance;nonadhesivesideofinterfacingisrightside.Clipcurves.

Pressseamawayfromfacing.Topreventinterfacingfromfusingtoironingboard,becarefulthattheedgeoftheirondoesnotgobeyondtheseamallowance.

Foldinterfacingonseamline.Finger-pressfold,andpositioninterfacingonwrongsideoffacing.Fuseinterfacingtofacing.Attachfacingtogarment.

HowtoAttachaConvertibleCollar

Staystitchuppercollarneckseambeforestitchingtoundercollar.Clipcollarseamallowancetostay-stitchingatshouldermarks.Pressseamallowancetowrongsidebetweenclips.

Interfacefrontfacingsuptofoldline,usinglinedfacingtechnique(page133)orfinishingfacingedgeswithfinishappropriatetofabric.Turnunderfacingseamallowancesatshoulderseams;press.

Stitchshoulderseams.Staystitchgarmentneckedgeonseamline.Clipseamallowanceatfrequentintervals,stoppingshortofstaystitching.Stitchupperandundercollars.Turnrightsideout,andpress.

Pinundercollaronlytogarmentbetweenshoulderseams.Keepcollarneckedgefree.Pinuppercollarandundercollartofrontneckedge,matchingmarkings.

Foldfrontfacingsovercollar.Pinthroughalllayers.Stitchnecklineseam,rightsideofgarmentup;donotcatchfoldededgeofcollarinstitching.Trimacrosscorners,andgradeseam;turnfacingsrightsideout.

Bringfoldededgeofuppercollaroverneckseam,andedgestitchorslipstitchinplace.Slipstitchfacingstoshoulderseamallowances.

HowtoAttachaShirtCollarwithaStand

Topstitchouteredgeofthecollar .Interfacebothstandsections .Finishgarment .

Pinthestandsections,rightsidestogether,withshirtsandwichedbetweenlayers.

Stitchstandtoneckseam.Stop5/8"(1.5cm)fromstandedges(arrow).Trimandgradeseam.

Rollshirtfrontsoutoftheway.Stitchcurvefromneckseamtocollarplacementmark.

Cliptoseamlineatmarking.Trimcurve;clipseams.

Turnstandrightsideout.

Stitchcollartorightsideofoutsidestand,withundercollarnexttostand.Trimandgradeseam;pressseamtowardstand.

Pressunderseamallowanceofinsidestand;trimto¼"(6mm).Pinpressededgeofstandtocoverstitchingline.

Edgestitcharoundstandthroughallfabriclayers.

Waistbands

Becauseawaistbandsupportstheentiregarment,itmustbeastrongandsturdyouteredgefinish.Abasicwaistbandforskirtsandpantsiscutonthelengthwisegrainofthefabricwherethereistheleastamountofstretch.Thewaistbandisstabilizedwithinterfacing,doubledandsewntothewaistlineedge,enclosingtheseamallowance.

Mostwaistbandscallforaturned-underedgeasafinishontheinside.Afaster,lessbulkymethodrequireschangingthepatternlayoutsothewaistbandpatterniscutwithonelongedgeontheselvage.Becausetheselvagedoesnotravel,aturned-underedgeisnotnecessary.Thismethodcanbestitchedentirelybymachine.Tofurthereliminatebulk,facewaistbandsofheavyfabricswithalightweightfabricorgrosgrainribbon.

Cutawaistbandlongenoughforadequateeaseandoverlapallowance.Thelengthshouldequalyourwaistmeasurementplus2¾"(7cm).Theextraamountincludes½"(1.3cm)forease,1¼"(3.2cm)forseamallowances,and1"(2.5cm)foroverlap.Thewidthshouldbetwicethedesiredfinishedwidthplus1¼"(3.2cm)forseamallowances.

HowtoSewaWaistband(selvagemethod)

Cutwaistbandonthelengthwisegrain,placingthecuttinglineofonelongedgeontheselvage.

Cutlengthofpurchasedfusiblewaistbandinterfacingaccordingtopattern,cuttingoffendsatstitchinglinesointerfacingdoesnotextendintoseamallowances.

Fuseinterfacingtowaistband,withwidersideofinterfacingtowardselvageedge.Interfacingshouldbeplacedsothereisa5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceonthenotchededge(seamallowanceonselvageedgewillbenarrower).

Pinrightsideofnotchededgeofwaistbandtorightsideofgarment,matchingnotches.Stitcha5/8"(1.5cm)seam.

Turnwaistbandup.Pressseamallowancetowardwaistband.

Gradetheseamallowancesto¼"(6mm)onthewaistbandand1/8"(3mm)onthegarmenttoeliminatebulk.

Foldwaistbandoninterfacingcenterfoldlinesowaistbandiswrongsideout.Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seamoneachend.Trimseamallowancesto¼"(6mm).Diagonallytrimcorners.

Turnwaistbandrightsideout. Onunderlapside,diagonallyclipfromselvageedgetocorner(arrow). Tuckseamallowance,fromedgeofunderlaptoendofclip,upintowaistband.Foldclippedcornerunderatanangle.

Pinselvageedgeofwaistbandinplace.Fromrightsideofgarment,stitchintheditchofwaistlineseamortopstitch¼"(6mm)abovetheseam,catchingselvageedgeinstitching.Edgestitchloweredgeofunderlap(arrow)whenusingstitch-in-ditchmethod.

HemsUnlessahemisdecorative,itshouldbevirtuallyinvisiblefromtherightside.Usethreadthesameshadeas,orslightlydarkerthan,yourfabric.

Whenhemmingbyhand,pickuponlyoneortwothreadsfromtheouterfabricineachstitch.Donotpullthethreadtootightduringstitching.Thiscausesthehemtolookpuckeredorlumpy.Presscarefully;overpressingcreatesaridgealongtheedgeofthehem.

Thewidthofthehemisdeterminedbythefabricandgarmentstyle.Ahemallowanceofupto3"(7.5cm)maybegivenforastraightgarment;1½"to2"(3.8to5cm)foraflaredone.Sheerfabrics,nomatterwhatthestyle,areusuallyfinishedwithanarrow,rolledhem.Anarrowhemonsoftknitshelpskeepthemfromsagging.Machine-stitchedandtopstitchedhemsarefastandpermanent.

Beforehemming,letthegarmenthangfor24hours,especiallyifithasabiasorcircularhem.Trythegarmentonovertheundergarmentsyouwillwearwithit.Checktobesureitfitsandhangscorrectly.Wearshoesandabeltifthegarmentistobebelted.

Hemlinesareusuallymarkedwiththehelpofasecondpersonusingapinmarkeroryardstick.Markthehemlinewithpinsorchalkallaroundthegarment,makingsurethedistancefromthefloortothehemlineremainsequal.Standinanormalpositionandhavethehelpermovearoundthehem.Pinhemup,andtryonthegarmentinfrontofafull-lengthmirrortodoublecheckthatitisparalleltothefloor.

Pantshemscannotbemarkedfromthefloorup,asskirtsanddressesare.Forstandard-lengthpants,thebottomofthepantslegshouldrestontheshoeinfrontandslopedownslightlytowardtheback.Pinupthehemonbothlegs,andtryoninfrontofamirrortocheckthelength.

Beforestitching,finishtherawedgesofthehemtokeepthefabricfromravelingandtoprovideananchorforthehemmingstitch.Selectthehemfinish(opposite)andstitchthatisappropriatetothefabricandthegarment.

Blindstitchingbymachinemakesafast,sturdyhemonwovenandknitfabrics.Manysewingmachineshavethisbuilt-institch.Aspecialfootorstitchingguidemakesblindstitchingeasy.

Seambindingorlaceprovidesafinishsuitableforfabricsthatravel,suchaswool,tweed,orlinen.Lapseambinding¼"(6mm)overthehemedgeontherightsideofthefabric.Edgestitchthebindinginplace,overlappingendsataseamline.Usewovenseambindingforstraighthems,stretchlaceforcurvedhemsandknits.Hemlight-tomedium-weightfabricswiththecatchstitch,bulkyfabricswiththeblindstitch.

HemFinishesandStitches

Topstitchedhemfinishestherawedgeandhemsthegarmentallinonestep.Turnuphem1½"(3.8cm)andpininplace.Forravellyfabrics,pinkorturnunderrawedge.Onrightside,topstitch1"(2.5cm)fromfoldededge.Above,asecondrowoftopstitchingisappliedasadesigndetail.

Twin-needlestitchedhemissuitableforknitsandcasualstyles.Thetwinneedleproducestwocloselyspacedparallellinesofstitchingontherightsideandazigzag-typestitchonthewrongside.Turnhemupdesiredamountandstitchthroughbothlayersfromrightside,usingseamguide.Trimexcesshemallowanceafterstitching.

Zigzagfinishisappropriateforknitsandfabricsthatravel,becausethestitchgiveswiththefabric.Stitchclosetorawedgewithzigzagstitchofmediumwidthandlength.Trimclosetostitching.Hemwithablindstitch,blindcatchstitch,ormachineblindstitch.

Turnedandstitchedfinishisappropriateforwovenlightweightfabrics.Turnrawedgeunder¼"(6mm).Stitchneartheedgeofthefold.Hemusingslipstitchorblindstitch.

Boundhemfinishisappropriateforheavywoolensandfabricsthatraveleasily.Finishrawedgeofhemindouble-foldbiastapeorHongKongfinish(page113).Hemwithblindstitchorblindcatchstitch.Becarefulnottopullhemmingthreadtootightorfabricwillpucker.

Pinkedandfusedhemisafastandeasyfinishforlightweightwovenfabrics.Applyafusiblewebstripbetweenthehemandthegarment.Steampress,followingmanufacturer’sinstructions.

HowtoTurnUpaHem

Markgarmentanevendistancefromthefloorusingpinsorchalk,andayardstickorskirtmarker.Haveyourhelpermovearoundyousoyoudonotneedtoshiftpositionorposture.Placemarksevery2"(5cm).

Trimseamallowancesinhembyhalftoreducebulk.Trimseamsfrombottomofgarmenttohemstitchinglineonly.

Foldhemupalongmarkedline,insertingpinsatrightanglestothefoldatregularintervals.Tryongarmenttochecklength.

Hand-baste¼"(6mm)fromfoldededge.Pressedgelightly,easinghemtofitgarment.

Measureandmarkthedesiredhemdepth,adding¼"(6mm)foredgefinish.Workonironingboardortable,usingaseamgaugetoensureevenmarking.

Trimexcesshemallowancealongmarkings.Finishrawedgeaccordingtofabrictype(page143).Pinfinishededgetogarment,matchingseamsandcenterlines.

HowtoSewaCurvedHem

Preparehemasshownopposite,butdonotfinishrawedge.Curvedhemshaveextrafullnesswhichmustbeeasedtofitgarment.Loosenmachinetensionandeasestitch¼"(6mm)fromedge,stoppingandstartingataseamline.

Drawupbobbinthreadbypullingupaloopwithapinatintervals,easingfullnesstosmoothlyfitgarmentshape.Donotdrawhemintoomuch,oritwillpullagainstgarmentwhenfinished.Presshemoverapressmitttosmoothoutsomefullness.

Finishrawedgeusingzigzagstitching,biastape,seambinding,orpinking.Pinhemedgetogarment,matchingseamsandcenterlines.Hemusingmachineblindstitchorappropriatehandhemmingstitch.

HowtoMachineBlindstitch

Preparehemlineasshown,opposite.Hand-bastehemtogarment,¼"(6mm)fromrawedge.Adjustmachinetoblindstitchsettingandattachblindstitchfoot.Selectzigzagwidthandstitchlength,followingguidelinesinyourmachinemanual.

Placehemallowancefacedownoverfeedofmachine.Foldbulkofgarmentbacktobastingline.Thesoftfoldshouldrestagainsttherightpartofthefoot(arrow).Somemachinesusearegularzigzagfootwithablindstitchhemmingguideattached.

Stitchalonghemclosetothefold,catchinggarmentonlyinzigzagstitch.Whilestitching,guidehemedgeinastraightlineandfeedsoftfoldagainsttherightpartofthehemmingfootortheedgeoftheguide.Openouthemandpressflat.

ThreeHemsUsingSergerwithConventionalMachine

Overedgedandblindstitchedhem.Markhemallowance,andgradeseamsinhemarea.Sergehemedge.Foldhemasforblindhem,step2,page145.Pinhemintoposition,andblindstitch,usingaconventionalmachine,orbyhand.

Overedgedandtopstitchedhem.

Sergehemedge.Turnuphem;press.Topstitchfromrightsideofgarment,usingconventionalmachine.Twinneedlemaybeusedfortopstitching.

Easedhem.Easehemfullnessbypullingupneedlethread.Oradjustdifferentialfeed,ifavailable,totheeasesetting.Pinhemintoposition;blindstitch,usingaconventionalmachine,orbyhand.

HowtoOverlockaBlindHem

Adjustmachineforflatlockstitch;useblindhemfoot,ifavailable.Setstitchlengthat4mm.Folduphem;press.Onhemsideofgarment,placepinswiththeheadstowardbodyofgarment.

Foldgarmentoverhemallowance,withhemedgeextending¼"(6mm)beyondfold.Stitchonextendedhemedge,withneedlebarelycatchingfold;removepinsasyoucometothem.

Openhem,andpullfabricflat.Ladderofstitchesshowsonrightsideoflightweightfabrics,butisinvisibleonheaviertexturedfabrics.

HowtoSewaCoverStitchHem

Splithem.Adjustmachineforcoverstitch.Pressuphem.Placefabricunderraisedpresserfoot,rightsideup,withfoldalignedtodesiredneedleplateguideline.Holdingthreads,turnhandwheeluntilneedlesenterfabricatbeginningofhem.Stitchtofabricedgeatendofhem;raiseneedlesandpresserfoot.Holdingstitchesfirmly,gentlypullthreadsback.Cutthreads,leavingtail;knot.Securetails,usingloopturnerorneedle.

Circularhem.Adjustmachineandstitchhemasforsplithem,left;startatbackorsideseam,andlapfirststitchesabout1"(2.5cm).Raiseneedlesandpresserfoot.Holdstitchesbehindfootfirmly;gentlypullfabricslightlyback,andthentoleft.Cutthreadtails.Pulloutloosethreads;securethreads,usingliquidfraypreventerorknotsasdesired.Removeextraneedlethreadfromsurfaceofneedleplate.

HowtoFlatlockaSportHem

Adjustmachineforflatlockstitch.Folduphem,andpress.Foldup,andpressagain,enclosingrawedge;flatlockonfold,takingcaretocatchhemedgeinstitches.

Openhem,andpullfabricflat.Lightlypress.Decorativeloopsareontherightsideofgarment.

HowtoFlatlockaFringedHem

Markplacementline,bypullingathreadorusingamarkingpen,toindicatedepthoffringe.Pressacreaseonmarkedline.Adjustsergerforflatlockstitch.Stitchonfold.

Cutfabricuptostitchesongrainevery3"(7.5cm).Removethreadstocreatefringe.Ifflatlockingcorners,applyliquidfraypreventertointersectingstitches,anduseseamrippertoremovestitchesinfringearea.

EasyEdgesApulloverblousecanbeedge-finishedquicklybymachine.Abiasnecklinefacingwithoverlappedendsmakesaneatnecklinefinish,andnarrowmachine-stitchedhemsfinishthesleevesandloweredgesoftheblouse.

Tomakethebiasfacing,cuta1¼"(3.2cm)biasstripabout2"(5cm)longerthantheneckopening,toallowforoverlap.

Anarrowmachine-stitchedhemisnonbulky,makingitsuitableforlightweightorsilkyfabrics.Itcanalsobeusedforhemsongarmentsmadefromsatin,taffeta,ororganza.Horsehairbraidcanbeaddedtothisnarrowhemforextrabody.

Beforestitchingthehem,trimhemallowanceto3/8"(1cm).

HowtoSewaBiasNecklineFacing

Cutbiasfacing,opposite.Foldstripinhalflengthwise,wrongsidestogether;press.Trimgarmentseamallowanceto¼"(6mm).Placestriponrightsideofgarment,rawedgeseven,withendofstrip1"(2.5cm)fromcenterback.

Taperendofstripintoseamallowance;stitcharoundneckline.Overlapends,taperingotherendintoseamallowance.

Trimseamallowances.Pressstripawayfromgarment;thenpressittoinsideofgarment.Edgestitcharoundnecklinefromrightside.

HowtoSewaNarrowHem

Machine-stitch¼"(6mm)fromhemedge.Turnedgetowrongsideonstitchingline;pressfold.

Stitch,usingshortstitchlength,closetofold.Trimexcessfabricclosetostitching,usingappliquéscissors.Presstoremovefullness,iffabrichasstretched.

Turnhemedgetowrongside,enclosingrawedge.Stitchanevendistancefromedge.

Turnhemedgetowrongside,enclosingrawedge.Sliphorsehairbraidintofoldtoaddbodytohem.Stitchanevendistancefromedge.

PocketsPocketsvaryinpurposefrompracticaltodecorative.Practicalpocketsusuallyaresimpleinstyle.Yettheshape,decorativetrim,orpositionofapocketcanmakeitafashionfocus.Tobeuseful,however,pocketsshouldfallcomfortablywithinhand’sreach,evenifthismeansadjustingthepattern.

Chooseasturdy,firmlywovenfabricforhiddenpocketsectionsofin-seamandslantedpocketstyles.Thepocketislesslikelytowearoutifcutfromfabricsuchascottontwillordrillcloth.Tailorsusepocketing,aspeciallightweighttwill,forpocketsonpantsandjackets.Adurableliningfabricisalsoagoodchoice.

Patchpocketsaresewntotheoutsideofagarment.Pocketedgesshouldbeneat,smooth,andsecurelyapplied.Theymaybeinterfacedforstability,lined,orself-linedontailoredlinedgarments.

In-seampocketsarehiddenpockets.Fromtheoutsideofagarmenttheylooklikeanopeninginaseam.

Slantedpocketsopendiagonallyfromthewaisttothesidesofpantsandskirts.

Weltpocketsarehiddenpocketswithavisibleslit.Theymayhaveasingleordoubleweltandaresometimescoveredwithaflap.

PATCHPOCKETS

Asoutsidedetails,patchpocketsaddfashiondetailtoagarment.Positionthemwheretheylookbestonyourfigure.Trypocketsabove,below,orbesidetheplacementlineonthepatterntofindthemostflatteringpositionthatwillavoidcallingattentiontofullbustorhips.

Onceyou’vedeterminedthepositionforpockets,doublechecktheplacementbeforeattachingthem.Measurecarefullysopocketsarepreciselyaligned.Thisstepisespeciallyimportantwhenpocketsaresymmetricalbecauseaminorpatternadjustmentcanaffectpocketalignment.

Patchpocketsmaybeappliedbyhandormachinestitching.Choosethemachinemethodforcasualgarments,asatime-savingtechnique,andforthemostsecureapplication.Ifyoupreferafine,invisiblefinish,sewthepocketsinplacebyhand.

Interfacepatchpocketswithalightweightfusibleinterfacingforsmoothshapeandlongerwear.Cuttheinterfacingtothehemfoldatthepockettopandtotheseamlineatthesidesandbottomofthepocket.Avoidatoo-stiffpocketbycuttingwoveninterfacingsonthetruebiasgrain.

Reinforcepatchpocketsattheuppercorners.Stitchsmalltrianglesonman-tailoredshirtsandsportswear.Usefinezigzagstitchesforbartacksonchildren’sclothesandruggedoutdoorwear.Topstitchingmaybeaddedforfurtherreinforcement.

HowtoSewaPatchPocketwithSquareCorners

Finishupperedgeofpocket.Foldhemtooutside.Pullhemedges1/8"(3mm)beyondpocketsoseamswillrolltowardinside.Stitchonseamline.Trimcornersdiagonally;gradeseams.

Turnhemrightsideout,usingpointturnertopushoutcorners.Pressseamallowancesunderonsidesandloweredges.

Foldseamallowancediagonallyacrosslowercornerssopressedfoldlinesmatch.Pressdiagonalfolds,thentrimto¼"(6mm).

Pressseamallowanceagaintoinside,formingmiteratcorners.Trimremainingseamallowances.Edgestitchortopstitchifdesired.

HowtoSewaPatchPocketwithRoundedCorners

Stitchupperhemasforpatchpocket,page151,step1.Alsoeasestitcharoundcorners,justinsideseamline.

Pressseamallowancetoinsideofpocket.Pullthreadatcornerstitchestoeaseinextraseamallowanceevenly.

Trimentireseamallowanceto¼"(6mm).Ifnecessary,notchoutfullnessatcornercurvestomakeseamallowancelieflat.

HowtoSewaSelf-linedPatchPocket

Foldpocketpatternonhemline.Placepatternfoldonfabricfold,andcutdoublepocket.Fuseinterfacingononehalfofpocket.

Pinrightsidestogether,pullingnon-interfacedside1/8"(3mm)beyondedge.Stitchseam;trimandnotch.Cut1"(2.5cm)biasslitonnon-interfacedsideofpocket.

Turnpockettorightsidethroughslit.Pressedges,rollingseamtosidewithslitinit.Closeslitwithfusibleinterfacinginsertedadhesivesideup.

HowtoSewaLinedPatchPocket

Foldhemdownonpocketpattern.Markliningcuttingline½"(1.3cm)fromupperedgeofpattern(arrow).Cutlining1/8"(3mm)smalleronsidesandbottom.

Stitchtopofliningtotopofpocket,rightsidestogether,with¼"(6mm)seam.Leaveopeningforturningatcenterofseam(arrows).Pressseamopen.

Bringloweredgeofliningandpockettogether.Stitchsideandloweredges.Trimseamsandcorners;notchfullnessfromcurvesofroundedpockets.

Turnpocketrightsideoutthroughopeninginseam.Presspocketfromliningside,rollingseamtowardbackofpocket.

Slipstitchseamopeningclosed.

HowtoApplyaPatchPocketbyMachine

Transferpocketplacementlinetorightsideofgarmentwithmachinebasting.

Usebastingtape,pins,orgluetoholdpocketinplaceoverthebaste-markedline.

Edgestitchpockettogarment.Reinforceuppercornerswithstitchedtrianglesorbartacks.

HowtoApplyaPatchPocketbyHand

Topstitchpocketbeforeapplyingpockettogarment.Baste-markpocketplacementlineasinmachinemethodabove,step1.

Hand-bastepocketinposition,stitchingalongpocketedgetouseasguidelineonwrongside.

Backstitchpocketinplace,workingfrominsideofgarment.Stitchingshouldnotshowfromrightside.

IN-SEAMPOCKETS

Therearethreewaysofcuttingin-seampockets:cuttingthepocketaspartofthegarment,cuttingaseparatepocket,andcuttingagarmentextensionplusaseparatepocket.

Sewinganin-seampocketthatispartofthegarmenteliminatesoneseambutcancreateunwantedbulkunlessthegarmentfabricislightweight.Cuttingaseparatepocketreducesbulkbecauseyoucanusealiningfabric.Thethirdmethod,usinganextension,reducesbulkandpreventsthepocketliningfromshowingonthecurveofthehip.Topreventthepocketopeningfromstretchingwhenpocketsarecutseparately,stitchnarrowtwillorseamtapeintheseamallowanceofthefrontpocket.

Topstitchinghelpstoholdthepocketinplaceandflattensanybulkattheseam,givingaslimmerlineinthehiparea.

HowtoSewanIn-SeamPocket

Edgestitchtapeonwrongsideinseamallowanceoffrontpocketextension.Stitchpocketstofrontandbackextensions.Trimseamto¼"(6mm).Zigzagedgestogether;presstowardpocket.

Pingarmentfronttogarmentback;machine-bastepocketopeningclosed.Stitchpocketandgarmentseamaboveandbelowpocketopening.Useshortreinforcementstitches,andbackstitchatopening.

Stitcharoundpocket,endingatsideseam.Clipseamaboveandbelowextensiononbackgarmentsectiononly,soseamcanbepressedopen.

Pressgarmentseamopenaboveandbelowclips.Presspockettowardgarmentfront.Finishrawedgesofpockettogether.Removebastingstitches.

SLANTEDPOCKETS

Slantedpocketsareformedfromtwopatternpieces:thepocketandthegarmentsidefront.Thesidefrontfillsinthehipareaofthegarmentabovethepocketopeningandcompletestheinsideofthepocket.Thepocketpatterncanbecutfromliningfabrictominimizebulkbecausethepocketishiddenontheinside.

HowtoSewaSlantedPocket

Cut2"(5cm)stripofsew-ininterfacingtomatchshapeofcurvedpocketedges.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromedgeonwrongside.Triminterfacing.Ifedgeisstraight,insteadofinterfacingstitchseamtapeoverpocketseamlinetostabilizebiasgrainline.

Stitchpockettogarmentfront,rightsidestogether.Trimseam,gradingsopocketseamallowanceisnarrower.Clipcurves.

Pressseamtowardpocket.Ifpocketwillnotbetopstitched,understitchseamonpocketsidetopreventpocketfromrollingtorightside.

Foldpockettoinside.Presspocketedge,rollingseamtowardpocket.Topstitchoredgestitchedgeofpocketifithasnotbeenunderstitched.

Stitchsidefrontofgarmenttopocket.Finishrawedgeswithzigzagstitchesoranotheredgefinish(pages110and111).

Bastepockettogarmentatsideseamandatwaistseam.Usepatternmarkingstolineupfabriclayers.Pocketshouldlieflatwithoutripples.

WELTPOCKETS

Doubleweltpocketslooklikelargeboundbuttonholes.Awelt,whichisanarrow,foldedstripofgarmentfabric,finisheseachedgeofthepocketopening.Thepocket,cutfromaliningfabric,extendsfromtheweltsontheinsideofthegarment.

Makingweltpocketsisanexperttailoringtechniquethatrequiresprecisemarking,cutting,andstitching.Beforestarting,carefullycheckthepocketposition.Onceyouhavestartedmakingthepocket,recheckthepocketpositionbeforeslashingthewelt.Inthephotos,thewrongsideofthegarmenthasbeenbackedwithfusibleinterfacing.

HowtoCutandPrepareaPocketLining

Cutthefollowingpocketparts7"×3"(18×7.5cm)forfinished5"

(12.5cm)welt:apocketstay,fromnonwovensew-ininterfacing;

weltand pocketfacing,fromfashionfabric; interfacing,from

weftinsertionfusible.Cutlining 7"×12"to15"(18×30.5to38cm).

Fuseinterfacingtowrongsideofwelt.Placewelt ,rightsideup,ononeedgeofpocketlining.Zigzaginneredgeofwelttolining.

Machine-basteouteredgeofwelttolining.Stitchpocketfacing tootheredgeofliningasforwelt.Upperinterfacedpartofliningwillbewelt.Lowernon-interfacedpartwillbeinsideofpocket.

HowtoSewaWeltPocket

Markpocketplacementlineonwrongsideofgarment.Markcenterofstay.Drawpocketstitchingboxwithlines¼"(6mm)fromcenterline.Markendswithshortverticallines5"(12.5cm)apart,1"(2.5cm)fromendsofstay.

Positionstayonwrongsideatpocketplacementmarking.Sewaroundentirebox,usingsmallstitchesandbeginningononelongside.Thistransferspocketstitchingboxtorightside.Donotbackstitch.

Pinrightsideofwelt/pocketsectiontorightsideofgarment,centeringweltoverbaste-markedpocketstitchingbox.

Stitchlongsidesonlyofpocketstitchingbox,workingfromwrongsideofgarment.Stopexactlyatendmarksonbox,backstitchingtosecurethreads.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowwherestitchingends.)

Machine-basteexactly¼"(6mm)fromeachlongsideofpocketstitchingbox,workingfromwrongsideofgarment.Usewidthofpresserfootasstitchingguide.

Presswelt/pocketsectionup,workingfromrightsideofgarment.Pressfirmlytocreateneat,flatfold.Pin.Lowerlineofmachinebastingisinsidethisfold.

Stitchonlowerlonglineofpocketstitchingboxfromwrongsideofgarment.Stopexactlyatendmarks(arrow);backstitchtosecurethreads.Thisformslowerwelt.

Presswelt/pocketsectiondown.Upperlineofmachinebastingisinsidefold.

Stitchonupperlonglineofpocketstitchingboxfromwrongsideofgarment;backstitchtosecurethreads.Thisformsupperwelt.

Slashweltbycuttingthroughcenterofweltbetweenstitchingrows.Donotcutintogarment.Removebastestitchingfromupperandlowerwelt.

Cutthroughcenterofpocketstitchingboxfromwrongsideofgarment.Stop5/8"(1.5cm)fromeachend,thencutdiagonallytoeachcorner,formingtriangles.Becarefultocutgarmentfabriconly.

Turnweltsandpockettowrongsidebypullingthemthroughpocketopening.Makesuretrianglesarepulledthroughandfoldedflatbetweenweltsandpocketstay.Press.

Foldpocketupsopocketfacingcoverswelts.Pinfacingtotopofwelt.

Stitchintheditchofupperweltfromrightsideofgarment,usingzipperfoot.Stitchthroughalllayers.Thisalsosecurespocketliningtowelt.

Foldgarmentbackoutofthewaytoprepareforstitchingpocketsideseams.

Stitchpocketsideseams,usingzipperfoot;stitchclosetofoldoftrianglesatendsofpocketopening.

Presspocketliningsoitliesflat.

Whipstitchedgesofupperandlowerweltstogethertoholdpocketopeninginplacewhileyousewtheremainderofgarment.

ClosuresZippers,buttons,snaps,andhooksandeyesareusuallymeanttobeasinconspicuousaspossible,butaresometimesusedasdecorativedetails.Astylishbutton,colorfulseparatingzipper,orpearlizedgrippersnapcanmakeadefinitefashionstatement.

Selecttheclosureaccordingtothestyleofgarmentandamountofstrainthatwillbeputontheopening.Forexample,aheavy-dutyhookandeyeclosure(opposite)canbetterwithstandthestrainonapantswaistbandthanordinaryhooksandeyes.Thebackofthepatternenvelopespecifiesthetypeandsizeofclosurestopurchase.

Becauseclosuresareunderstrain,itisimportanttoreinforcethegarmentareawheretheyareplaced.Seamallowancesorfacingsprovidelightreinforcement.Otherclosureareasshouldbereinforcedwithinterfacing.

Forsewingonbuttons,snaps,andhooksandeyes,useanall-purposethread,andsharpsorcrewelneedles.Forheavyweightfabricsorforclosuresthatareunderconsiderablestrain,useheavy-duty,ortopstitchingandbuttonholetwistthread.

HOOKSANDEYES

Hooksandeyesarestrongclosuresandcomeinseveraltypes.Regular,general-purposehooksandeyesareavailableinsizes0(fine)to3(heavy),inblackornickelfinishes.Theyhaveeitherstraightorroundeyes.Straighteyesareusedwheregarmentedgesoverlap,suchasonawaistband.Roundeyesareusedwheretwoedgesmeet,suchasatthenecklineaboveacenteredzipper.Threadloops(opposite)canbeusedinplaceofroundmetaleyesondelicatefabricsorinlocationswheremetaleyeswouldbetooconspicuous.Buttonloopsandbeltcarriersaremadeusingthesametechnique,startingwithlongerfoundationstitches.

Heavy-dutyhooksandeyesarestrongerthanregularhooksandeyes,towithstandgreaterstrain.Availableinblackornickelfinishes,theyareusedonlyforlappedareas.Large,plain,orcoveredhooksandeyesareavailableforcoatsandjackets.Theseareattractiveenoughtobevisibleandstrongenoughtoholdheavyfabric.

HowtoAttachWaistbandHooksandEyes

Positionheavy-dutyhookonundersideofwaistbandoverlap,about1/8"(3mm)frominsideedge.Tackhookinplacewiththreeorfourstitchesthrougheachhole.Donotstitchthroughtorightsideofgarment.

Laphooksideoverunderlaptomarkpositionofeye.Insertstraightpinsthroughholestomarkposition.Tackinplacewithfourstitchesineachhole.

Roundhookandeyeisusedforwaistbandswhichdonotoverlap.Positionhookasforheavy-dutyhook.Tackthroughbothholesandatendofhook.Positioneyesoitextendsslightlyoverinsideedgeoffabric(garment’sedgesshouldbutttogether).Tackinplace.

HowtoMakeThreadEyes

Insertneedlewithdoublestrandofthreadatedgeoffabric.Taketwofoundationstitchesthedesiredlengthoftheeye.Thesearetheanchoronwhichblanketstitchisworked.

Workblanketstitchbybringingeyeofneedleunderfoundationstitchesandthroughtheloop.

Bringneedlethroughloop,pullinglooptightagainstfoundationstitches.Workblanketstitchalongentirelengthoffoundationstitches.

Securestitchingbytakingtwosmallbackstitches.Trimthreads.

BUTTONHOLES

Thestandardsofawell-madebuttonholeare:

Widthisappropriatetotheweightofthefabricandsizeofthebuttonhole.

Endsarebar-tackedtopreventbuttonholefromtearingunderstress.

Stitchesareevenlyspacedoneachsideofthebuttonhole.

Buttonholeis1/8"(3mm)longerthanthebutton.

Stitchesoneachsidearefarenoughapartsothatthebuttonholecanbecutopenwithoutcuttingthestitches.

Endshavenotbeencutopenaccidentally.

Interfacingsupportingthebuttonholematchesthefashionfabricandisnotobviousonthecutedges.

Buttonholeison-grain;verticalbuttonholesareperfectlyparalleltothegarmentedge,horizontalbuttonholesareatperfectrightanglestotheedge.

Horizontalbuttonholesarethemostsecure,becausetheyarenotasapttoletbuttonsslipout.Thesebuttonholesalsoabsorbanypullagainsttheclosurewithlittle,ifany,distortion.Horizontalbuttonholesshouldextend1/8"(3mm)beyondthebuttonplacementline,towardtheedgeofthegarment.Besurethatthespacefromthecenterlinetothefinishededgeofthegarmentisatleastthree-fourthsthediameterofthe

button.Withthisspacing,thebuttonwillnotextendbeyondtheedgewhenthegarmentisbuttoned.

Verticalbuttonholesareusedonplacketsandshirtbands.Theseareusuallyusedwithmoreandsmallerbuttonstohelpkeeptheclosuresecure.Verticalbuttonholesareplaceddirectlyonthecenterfrontorcenterbackline.

Whenagarmentisbuttoned,thebuttonplacementlinesandcenterlinesofbothsidesmustmatchperfectly.Iftheoverlapismoreorlessthanthepatternindicates,thegarmentmaynotfitproperly.

Spacesbetweenbuttonholesaregenerallyequal.Youmayhavetochangethepatternbuttonholespacingifyouhavemadepatternalterationsthatchangethelengthoralterthebustline.Respacingmayalsobenecessaryifyouhavechosenbuttonsthatarelargerorsmallerthanthepatternindicates.Buttonholesshouldbespacedsotheyoccurintheareasofgreateststress.Whentheyareincorrectlyspaced,theclosinggapsandspoilsthegarment’sappearance.

Forfrontopenings,placebuttonholesattheneckandthefullestpartofthebust.Placeabuttonholeatthewaistforcoats,overblousesandprincess-seameddressesorjackets.Toreducebulk,donotplaceabuttonholeatthewaistlineofatucked-inblouseorbelteddress.Buttonsandbuttonholesshouldendabout5"to6"(12.5to15cm)abovethehemlineofadress,skirt,orcoatdress.

Toevenlyrespacebuttonholes,markthelocationsofthetopandbottombuttons.Measurethedistancebetweenthem.Dividethatmeasurement

byonelessthanthenumberofbuttonstobeused.Theresultisthedistancebetweenbuttonholes.Aftermarking,tryonthegarment,makingsurethebuttonholesareplacedcorrectly.Adjustasnecessary.

HowtoDetermineButtonholeLength

Measurewidthandheightofbuttontobeused.Thesumofthesemeasurementsplus1/8"(3mm)forfinishingtheendsofthebuttonholeisthecorrectlengthforamachine-workedbuttonhole.Thebuttonholemustbelargeenoughtobuttoneasily,yetsnugenoughsothegarmentstaysclosed.

Testproposedbuttonhole.First,makeaslashinascrapoffabricthelengthofthebuttonholeminustheextra1/8"(3mm).Ifbuttonpassesthrougheasily,lengthiscorrect.Next,makeapracticebuttonholewithgarment,facing,andinterfacing.Checklength,stitchwidth,densityofstitching,andbuttonholecuttingspace.

HowtoMarkButtonholes

Placepatterntissueontopofgarment,aligningpatternseamlinewithgarmentopeningedge.Insertpinsstraightdownthroughtissueandfabricatbothendsofeachbuttonholemarking.Removepatterncarefully,pullingtissueoverheadsofpins.

Markbuttonholesusingoneofthefollowingmethods: Securepins. Machine-orhand-bastebetweenpinsandalongends.Useawater-solublemarkingpen. Placeapieceoftapeabovethepinsandmarkbuttonholelengthwithapencil;testfabricfirsttobesuretapedoesnotmarit.

Machine-madeButtonholes

Machine-madebuttonholesareappropriateformostgarments,especiallythosewhicharecasualortailored.Therearefourtypes:built-in(usuallytwo-orfour-step),overedge,one-step,anduniversalattachment.Alwaysmakeatestbuttonholewithappropriateinterfacingbeforemakingthebuttonholesonyourgarment.Thetestbuttonholealsoremindsyouatwhichpointyourmachinebeginsthebuttonholestitching,soyoucanpositionfabriccorrectly.

Built-inbuttonholesaremadewithacombinationofzigzagstitchingandbartacks.Mostzigzagmachineshaveabuilt-inmechanismthatstitchesthistypeofbuttonholeintwoorfoursteps.Thefourstepsare:zigzagforward,bartack,zigzaginreverse,bartack.Atwo-stepbuttonholecombinesaforwardorbackwardmotionwithabartack.Consultyourmachinemanualforspecificdirections,becauseeachmachinevaries.Theadvantageofthisbuttonholeisthatitallowsyoutoadjustthedensityofthezigzagtosuitthefabricandsizeofthebuttonhole.Usespacedzigzagstitchesonbulkyorlooselywovenfabrics,closerstitchesonsheerordelicatefabrics.

Overedgebuttonholesareanadaptationofthebuilt-inorone-stepbuttonhole.Thisbuttonholeisstitchedwithanarrowzigzag,cutopenandthenstitchedasecondtime,sothecutedgeisoveredgedwithzigzagstitches.Theoveredgebuttonholelookslikeahand-workedbuttonhole.Itisagoodchoicewhentheinterfacingisnotaclosecolormatchtothefashionfabric.

One-stepbuttonholesarestitchedallinonestep,usingaspecialfootandabuilt-institchavailableonsomemachines.Theycanbestitchedwithastandard-widthzigzag,oranarrowzigzagforlightweightfabrics.Thebuttonisplacedinacarrierinbackoftheattachmentandguidesthestitching,sothebuttonholefitsthebuttonperfectly.Aleverneartheneedleispulleddownandstopsthefowardmotionofthemachinewhenthebuttonholereachesthecorrectlength.Allbuttonholesareofuniformlength,soplacementistheonlymarkingnecessary.

Universalattachmentbuttonholesaremadewithanattachmentwhichwillfitanymachine,includingastraight-stitchmachine.Theattachmenthasatemplatewhichdeterminesthesizeofthebuttonhole.Thismethodalsoofferstheadvantageofuniformbuttonholelengthandadjustablezigzagwidth.Thekeyholebuttonhole,usedontailoredgarmentsorheavyfabrics,canbemadeusingthisattachment.Thekeyholeatoneendofthebuttonholeprovidesspacefortheshank.

Ifbuttonholesdonothavetoberespacedbecauseofpatternalterations,makethebuttonholesafterattachingandfinishingthefacingsbutbeforejoiningtoanothergarmentsection.Thiswaythereislessbulkandweighttohandleatthemachine.

HowtoMakeButtonholes

Built-inbuttonholes.Placefabricunderbuttonholefoot;alignstartingpointwithneedleandcenterfootovermark.(Stepsshownseparately,butbuttonholeisstitchedcontinuously,movingmachinetonewsettingateachstep.) Setdialorleverselectoratfirststep.Slowlystitchseveralstitchesacrossendtoformbartack. Stitchonesidetomarkedend. Stitchseveralstitchesacrossendtoformsecondbartack. Stitchothersidetofirstbartacktocompletebuttonhole.Returntostartingpositionandmakeafewfasteningstitches.

Overedgebuttonhole. Stitchbuttonholewithnarrowzigzag.Cutbuttonholeopen. Repositioninexactpositionasfirststitching.Adjustzigzagtowiderstitch.Stitchsecondtimeovercutedgeofbuttonhole.

One-stepbuttonhole.Placebuttoninattachmentcarrier.Checkmachinemanualforproperstitchsetting.Buttonholeismadethecorrectlengthandstitchingwillstopautomatically.

Universalattachmentbuttonhole.Attachbuttonholeattachmentasinstructedinmanual.Selecttemplateofpropersizetofitbutton.Forsturdierreinforcedbuttonhole,stitcharoundthebuttonholeasecondtime.

HowtoOpenaButtonhole

Insertstraightpinsateachendofbuttonholeinfrontofbartackstopreventcuttingthroughends.

Insertpointofsmall,sharpscissorsoraseamripperintocenterofbuttonholeandcarefullycuttowardoneend,thentheother.

Strengthenthecutedgeandpreventravelingbyapplyingliquidfraypreventertotheedge.Testonasamplefirst.

BUTTONS

Morethananyotherclosure,buttonsallowyoutoindividualizeyourgarment.Buttonscanbedecorativeaswellasfunctional.Therearetwobasickindsofbuttons,sew-throughandshankbuttons,butthevariationsonthesetwotypesareendless.

Sew-throughbuttonsareusuallyflat,withtwoorfourholes.Whentheyaremerelydecorative,theycanbesewnsotheyliedirectlyagainstthegarment.Onallotherapplications,sew-throughbuttonsneedathreadshank.Ashankraisesthebuttonfromthegarmentsurface,allowingspaceforthelayersoffabrictofitsmoothlywhenitisbuttoned.

Shankbuttonshavetheirownshanksontheunderside.Chooseshankbuttonsforheavierfabrics,aswellaswhenusingbuttonloopsorthreadloops.

Whenselectingbuttons,considercolor,style,weight,andcare.

Color.Thecolorofbuttonsisusuallymatchedtothefabric,butinterestingfashionlookscanbeachievedwithcoordinatingorcontrastingcolors.Ifyouareunabletofindanappropriatecolormatch,makeyourownfabric-coveredbuttonswithakit.

Style.Selectsmall,delicatebuttonsforfemininegarments;clean,classicstylesfortailoredclothes;noveltybuttonsforchildren’sclothes.Rhinestonebuttonsaddsparkletoavelvetgarment.Tryleatherormetalbuttonswithcorduroyandwooltweeds.

Weight.Matchlightweightbuttonstolightweightfabrics.Heavybuttons

willpullanddistortlightweightfabrics.Heavyweightfabricsneedbuttonsthatarebiggerorlookweightier.

Care.Choosebuttonsthatcanbecaredforinthesamemannerasthegarment,eitherwashableordry-cleanable.

Thebackofthepatternenvelopetellsyouhowmanyandwhatsizebuttonstopurchase.Trynottogomorethan1/8"(3mm)smallerorlargerthanthepatternspecifies.Buttonsthataretoosmallortoolargemaynotbeinproperproportiontotheedgeofthegarment.Buttonsizesarelistedininches,millimeters,andlines.Forexample,a½"buttonisalsolistedas13mmandline20;a¾"button,as19mmandline30.

Whenshoppingforbuttons,bringaswatchoffabricwithyoutoassureagoodmatch.Cutasmallslitinthefabricsoabuttononthecardcanbeslippedthrough,givingyouabetterideaofhowitwilllookwhenfinished.

Sewonbuttonswithdoubledall-purposethreadforlightweightfabrics,andheavy-dutyortopstitchthreadforheavierfabrics.

HowtoMarkButtonLocation

Markbuttonplacementbylappingthebuttonholesideofgarmentoverthebuttonside,matchingcenterlines.Pingarmentclosedbetweenbuttonholes.

Insertpinstraightthroughbuttonholeandintobottomlayeroffabric.Forverticalbuttonholes,insertpinincenterofbuttonhole.Forhorizontalbuttonholes,insertpinatedgeclosesttoouteredgeofgarment.

Carefullyliftbuttonholeoverpin.Insertthreadedneedleatpointofpintosewonbutton.Markandsewbuttonsoneatatime,buttoningpreviousbuttonsforaccuratemarking.

HowtoSewonaShankButton

Cutalengthofthread30"(76cm)longandrunitthroughbeeswaxtostrengthenit.Foldthreadinhalf.Threadfoldedendthroughacrewelneedle.Knotcutendsofthread.Positionbuttonatpinmarkonthegarmentcenterline,placingshankholeparalleltothebuttonhole.

Securethreadonrightsidewithsmallstitchunderbutton.Bringneedlethroughshankhole.Insertneedledownintofabricandpullthrough.Repeat,takingfourtosixstitchesthroughtheshank.

Securethreadinfabricunderbuttonbymakingaknotortakingseveralsmallstitches.Clipthreadends.Ifashankbuttonisusedonaheavyfabric,itmayalsoneedathreadshank.Followinstructionsformakingathreadshankonasewthroughbutton,page170.

HowtoHandSewaSew-throughButton

Threadneedleasforshankbutton(page169)andpositionbuttonatpinmark.Placeholesinbuttonsotheylineupparalleltobuttonhole.Bringneedlethroughfabricfromundersideandupthroughoneholeinbutton.Insertneedleintoanotherholeandthroughthefabriclayers.

Slipatoothpick,match,orsewingmachineneedlebetweenthreadandbuttontoformshank.Takethreeorfourstitchesthrougheachpairofholes.Bringneedleandthreadtorightsideunderbutton.Removetoothpick.

Windthreadtwoorthreetimesaroundbuttonstitchestoformshank.Securethreadonrightsideunderbuttonbymakingaknotortakingseveralsmallstitches.Clipthreadsclosetoknot.

HowtoMachineSewaSew-throughButton

Attachbuttonfootandspecialplatetocoverfeed,ordropfeed.Buttonwillbestitchedwithclosezigzagstitching.Regulatestitchwidthandtensionasdirectedinmachinemanual.

Positionbuttonunderfoot.Lowerneedleintocenterofonebuttonholebyturninghandwheeltowardyou.Lowerpresserfoot.Turnhandwheeluntilneedlerisesoutofbuttonandisjustabovefoot.Insertmatchortoothpicktoformshank.

Setzigzagstitchwidthregulatorsothatstitchwidthequalsthespacebetweenholesinbutton.Proceedslowlyuntilyouaresureyouhavethecorrectwidth.Takesixormorezigzagstitches.Securethestitchingasdirectedinyourmachinemanual.

SNAPS

Snapsareavailableasregularsew-onsnaps,gripper-typesnaps,orsnaptape.

Sew-onsnapsaresuitableforareaswherethereislittlestrain,suchasatthenecklineorwaistlinetoholdthefacingedgeflatwhenbuttonsareused,atthewaistlineofblouses,oratthepointedendofawaistbandfastenedwithhooksandeyes.Sewonsnapsconsistoftwoparts:aballandasocket.Selectasizethatisstrongenoughtobesecure,butnottooheavyforthefabric.

Gripper-typesnapsareattachedwithaspecialpliertoolorahammer.Theyhavemoreholdingpowerthanasew-insnapandwillshowontherightsideofthegarment.Grippersnapscanreplacebuttonandbuttonholeclosuresinsportswear.

Snaptapeconsistsofsnapsattachedtopiecesoftape.Thetapeisstitchedtothegarmentwithazipperfoot.Snaptapeisusedinsportswear,homedecorating,andfortheinsideseamofinfant’sandtoddler’spants.

HowtoAttachSew-onSnaps

Positionballhalfofsnaponwrongsideofoverlapsection,1/8"to¼"(3to6mm)fromtheedgesoitwillnotshowontherightside.Stitchinplacethrougheachhole,usingsinglestrandofthread.Stitchthroughfacingandinterfacingonly,notthroughtorightsideofgarment.Securethreadwithtwotinystitches.

Markpositionofsockethalfofsnaponrightsideofunderlapsection.Useoneofthefollowingmethods:Ifthereisaholeincenterofballhalf,insertpinfromrightsidethroughholeandintounderlapsection.Ifthereisnoholeinball,rubtailor’schalkonballandpressfirmlyagainstunderlap.

Positioncenterofsockethalfovermarking.Stitchinplaceinsamemannerasballhalf,exceptstitchthroughalllayersoffabric.

ZIPPERS

Downtheback,upthefront,onsleeves,pockets,orpantslegs—zippersprovideclosingsonavarietyoffashionfeatures.Conventionalzippersaremostoftenused.Theyareclosedatoneendandsewnintoaseam.Invisible,separating,andheavy-dutyzippersareavailableforspecialuses.

Thepatternspecifiesthetypeandlengthzippertobuy.Whenselectingazipper,chooseacolorthatcloselymatchesyourfabric.Alsoconsidertheweightofthezipperinrelationtotheweightofthefabric.Choosesyntheticcoilzippersforlightweightfabrics,becausethesezippersarelighterandmoreflexiblethanmetalzippers.Ifyoucannotfindazipperofthecorrectlength,buyonethatisslightlylongerthanyouneedandshortenitusingthedirectionsonthepage175.

Thereareseveralwaystoinsertazipper.Theoneyouchoosedependsonthetypeofgarmentandthelocationofthezipperinthegarment.Thefollowingpagescontaininstructionsforthelapped,centered,andfly-frontapplicationsforconventionalzippers;twomethodsforinsertingseparatingzippers;andinstructionsforinsertinganinvisiblezipper.Therearevariationsofeachoftheseapplications.Methodsshownherearequickandeasy,featuringtimesavingtoolssuchasfabricgluestickandtransparenttape.

Closethezipperandpressoutthecreasesbeforeinsertingitinthegarment.Ifthezipperhasacottontapeandwillbeappliedinawashablegarment,preshrinkitinhotwaterbeforeapplication.Thiswill

preventthezipperfrompuckeringwhenthegarmentislaundered.Forbestappearance,thefinalstitchingontheoutsideofthegarmentshouldbestraightandanevendistancefromtheseamline.Stitchbothsidesofthezipperfrombottomtotop,andturnthepulltabuptomakeiteasiertostitchpasttheslider.

Separatingzippersinjacketsandvestscanbeinsertedwithzipperteethcoveredorexposed.Adecorativesportzipperwithplasticteethislightweightyetsturdyforactivesportswear.

PartsoftheZipper

Topstopisthesmallmetalbracketatthetopthatpreventsthesliderfromrunningoffthetape.

Sliderandpulltabisthemechanismthatoperatesthezipper.Itlockstheteethtogethertoclosethezipperandunlockstheteethtoopenthezipper.

Tapeisthefabricstriponwhichtheteethorcoilarefastened.Thetapeissewntothegarment.

Teethorcoilisthepartofthezipperthatlockstogetherwhenthesliderrunsalongit.Itmaybemadeofnylon,polyester,ormetal.

Bottomstopisthebracketatthebottomofthezipperwherethesliderrestswhenthezipperisopen.Separatingzippershaveabottomstopwhichsplitsintotwopartstoallowthezippertobecompletelyopened.

ApplicationsforConventionalZippers

Lappedapplicationtotallyconcealsthezipper,makingitagoodchoiceforzippersthatdonotperfectlymatchthefabriccolor.Itismostoftenusedinsideseamclosingsofdresses,skirts,andpants.

Centeredapplicationismostfrequentlyusedforcenterfrontandcenterbackclosings.Attachfacingsbeforeinsertingthezipper.Waistbandsshouldbeappliedafterthezipperisinserted.

Fly-frontzipperisoftenfoundonpantsandskirts,andoccasionallyoncoatsandjackets.Usethefly-frontapplicationonlywhenthepatterncallsforit,becauseitrequiresthewiderunderlapandfacingincludedinthepattern.

Invisiblezippersprovideagarmentclosurethatisinconspicuous,revealingonlythepulltab.Theyareanexcellentalternativetotraditionalzippersforcenterbackorsideinstallations.Aspecialpresserfootisrequiredforinsertinganinvisiblezipper.Thisfootunrollsthecoil;afterstitching,thecoilandfabricrolltotheinside,concealingthezipper.Thepresserfootiseasilyassembledtofittheshanklengthandneedleslantofthesewingmachine.

HowtoShortenaZipper

Measuredesiredlengthalongthecoil,beginningattopstop.Markwithpin.

Machinezigzagacrossthecoilatpintoformnewbottomstop.

Cutoffexcesszipperandtape.Insertzipperasusual,stitchingslowlyacrosscoilatbottom.

HowtoInsertaLappedZipper

Turnthegarmenttothewrongside.Checkseamopeningtomakesuretopedgesareeven.Lengthofopeningshouldbeequaltolengthofzippercoilplus1"(2.5cm).Pinseamfrombottomofopeningtotopofgarment.

Machine-basteonseamlinefrombottomoftheopeningtotopofthegarment,removingpinsasyoustitch.

Clipbastingstitchesevery2"(5cm)tomakebastingeasiertoremoveafterzipperisinserted.

Pressseamopen.Ifzipperisinsideseamofskirtorpants,pressseamoverapressmittortailor’shamtoretainshapeofhipline.

Placeopenzipperfacedownonright-handsideofseamallowance(topfacingyou).Positionzippercoildirectlyonseamlinewithtopstop1"(2.5cm)belowcutedge.Turnpulltabup.Pinorgluerighthandsideofzippertapeinplace.

Replacepresserfootwithzipperfootandadjustittorightsideofneedle.Machine-basteclosetoedgeofcoil,stitchingfrombottomtotopofzipperwithedgeofzipperfootagainstcoil.Removepinsasyoustitch.

Closezipperandturnfaceup.Smoothfabricawayfromzipper,formingnarrowfoldbetweenzippercoilandbastedseam.

Adjustzipperfoottoleftsideofneedle.Startingatbottomofzippertape,stitchnearedgeoffold,throughfoldedseamallowanceandzippertape.

Turnzipperoversofacesideisflatagainstseam.Makesurepulltabisturneduptolessenbulkwhilestitching.Pininplace.

Adjustzipperfoottorightsideofneedle.Startingattopofzipper,machine-bastethroughtapeandseamallowanceonly.Thisholdsseamallowanceinplaceforthefinalstitching.

Topstitch½"(1.3cm)fromseamonoutsideofgarment.Toaidstraightstitching,use½"(1.3cm)transparenttapeandstitchalongedge.Startingatseamline,stitchacrossbottomofzipper,pivotatedgeoftapeandcontinue.

Removetape.Pullthreadatbottomofzippertowrongsideandknot.Removemachinebastinginseam.Press,usingapressclothtoprotectfabricfromshine.Trimzippertapeevenwithtopedgeofgarment.

HowtoInsertaCenteredZipper(usinggluestick)

Turngarmenttothewrongside.Checkseamopeningtomakesuretopedgesareeven.Lengthofopeningshouldbeequaltolengthofzippercoilplus1"(2.5cm).

Pinseamfrombottomofopeningtotopofgarment.

Machine-basteonseamlinefrombottomofopeningtotopofgarment.Clipbastingstitchesevery2"(5cm)tomakebastingeasiertoremove.

Pressseamopen.Finishrawedgesiffabricravelseasily.

Applygluesticklightlyonfacesideofzipper.

Placezipperfacedownonseam,withzippercoildirectlyonseamlineandtopstop1"(2.5cm)belowcutedge(keeppulltabup).Presswithfingerstosecurezipper.Letgluedryforafewminutes.

Spreadgarmentflat,rightsideup.Markbottomstopofzipperwithpin.Usetransparentorperforatedmarkingtape,½"(1.3cm)wideandsamelengthaszipper.Placedowncenterofseamline.Donotusetapeonnappedordelicatefabrics.

Replacepresserfootwithzipperfootandadjusttoleftofneedle.Topstitchzipperfromrightside,beginningatseamatbottomoftape.Stitchacrossbottomofzipper;pivotatedgeoftape.Stitchupleftsideofzippertotopcutedge,usingedgeoftapeasaguide.

Adjustthezipperfoottorightsideofneedle.Beginatseamatbottomoftapeandstitchacrossbottom.Pivotandstitchuprightsideofzipper,usingedgeoftapeasaguide.

Pullboththreadsatbottomtowrongside.Tieallfourthreads,usingpintopullknotclosetozipper.Clipthreads.

Turngarmenttorightside.Removetape.Carefullyremovemachinebastinginseamline.

Press,usingapressclothtoprotectfabricfromshine.Trimzippertapeevenwiththetopedgeofthegarment.

HowtoInsertaFly-frontZipper

Foraflatmethodofconstruction,applythezipperbeforestitchingthepantsseams.Cutinterfacing1¾"(4.5cm)widebythelengthoftheflyfacing,usingpinkingshears;fusetowrongsideofoverlapfacing.Cutflyshieldfrompantsfabric4"(10cm)widebylengthofflyfacing;curveloweredge,ifdesired.

Finishrawedgesofflyfacings.Pressfoldonoverlapfacingatcenterfront.Stitchfrontcrotchseam,usingshortstitches,beginningabout1½"(3.8cm)fromcrotchpointandendingatbottomofzipperopening;backstitchthreeorfourstitches.

Useazipper1"to2"(2.5to5cm)longerthanthefinishedzipperopening.Placeclosedzipperfacedownonunderlapfacing,withedgeofzippertapeatcenterfrontandzipperstop1/8"(3mm)abovebottomofzipperopening.Pinouteredgeofzippertapetofacing.Usingzipperfoot,stitchzippertapetofacingonly.

Foldunderlapfacingtowrongside;machine-bastenexttofoldline.

Matchcenterfrontmarkingsatupperedge,andpin.Fromwrongside,pinremainingedgeofzippertapetooverlapfacingonly.Withfacingheldawayfrompants,stitchzippertapetofacing.

Markstitchinglineonrightsideofpantsabout1½"(3.2cm)fromcenterfold.Hand-bastenexttostitchingline,ifdesired.Stitch,backstitchingthreeorfourstitchesatcenterfold.Removebasting.Openzipper.

Pressflyshieldinhalflengthwise;finishrawedges.Placeflyshieldunderzipperonunderlapside,withupperedgesmatchingandfoldededgeabout1"(2.5cm)beyondzipperteeth.Stitchclosetofoldthroughalllayers.Removebasting.

Staystitch,withzipperopen,acrossbothendsofzipperatupperedge;trimoffexcesszipperends.Clipcrotchseamallowancesbelowtheflyfacingtowithin¼"(6mm)ofstitching.

Closezipper.Fromwrongside,tackloweredgeofflyshieldtooverlapfacing.Fromrightside,stitchabartackatlowerendofzipperopening,ifdesired.

HowtoInsertaCoveredSeparatingZipper

Usebastingtape,pins,orgluetoholdclosedzipper,faceup,underfacedopeningedges.Positionpulltab1/8"(3mm)belowneckseamline.Edgesoftheopeningshouldmeetatcenterofzipper,coveringtheteeth.

Openzipper.Turnendsofzippertapeunderattopofgarment.Pininplace.

Topstitch3/8"(1cm)fromeachopeningedge,sewingthroughfabricandzippertape.Stitchfrombottomtotoponeachside,adjustingzipperfoottocorrectside.

HowtoInsertanExposedSeparatingZipper

Pinfacedopeningedgestoclosedzippersothatedgesareclosetobutnotcoveringzipperteeth,withpulltab1/8"(3mm)belowneckseamline.

Bastezipperinplacewithtapeendsextendingaboveneckseamline.Turnendsofzippertapeunderattopofgarmentiffacingisalreadyattached.Openzipper.

Topstitchclosetoopeningedgesonrightsideofgarment,usingzipperfootandstitchingfrombottomtotoponeachside.Toholdzippertapeflat,addanotherlineofstitching¼"(6mm)fromfirststitchinglineoneachside.

HowtoInsertanInvisibleZipper

Invisiblezipperscanbemosteasilyinsertedbystitchingthemintothegarmentbeforestitchinganypartoftheseam.Hand-bastealinethelengthofthezipperongarmentpieces,ascant¾"(2cm)fromtherawedge.Openzipper.Steampresszippertapefromwrongside,tounrollcoils.

Positionclosedzipperontherightsideofthegarmentsection,withzippertab3/8"(1cm)fromnecklineseam;pin-markgarmentpiecesatupperandloweredgesofzipper,makingsurethepatternmarkingsarealigned.

Openzipper;positiononrightgarmentsection,rightsidestogether,withleftsideofthezippercoilalignedtobastedlineandendsofzipperalignedtopinmarks;zippertapeisinseamallowance.Pinorhand-bastezippertapeinplace.

Attachinvisiblezipperfoottomachine;positionzippercoilundergrooveonrightsideoffoot(arrow).Slidezipperfootonadaptertoadjustneedlepositionsostitchingwillbeveryclosetothecoil;onheavierfabric,setneedlepositionslightlyfartherfromcoil.

Stitch,startingatupperedgeofzippercoil,untilzipperfoottouchesthepulltabatbottom,takingcarenottostretchfabric.Securethreadatends.

Pinorhand-basteremainingsideofzippertoleftgarmentsection,asinstep3,makingsuretoalignendsofzippertopinmarks.

Positioncoilunderzipperfoot;slidezipperfootonadaptertotheoppositeside,andadjusttheneedleposition.Stitchuntilzipperfoottouchesthepulltab;securethread.

Closethezipperandstitchtheremainderofgarmentseam;usearegularzipperfoottogetascloseaspossibletothezipperseam.

Securelowerendoftapetoseamallowances,usingaregularzipperfoot.

TailoringTailoringdiffersfromdressmakinginanumberofways.Thetermtailoredappliestofashionsstyledlikemenswear,suchasasuitjacket.Italsodescribescertainmethodsofconstructionandpatterndesign.Theundercollarandcollaronatailoredjacket,forexample,arecutfromtwodifferentpatternpiecestoshapethecollar.Indressmaking,bothcollarlayersareusuallycutfromthesamepatternpiece.Detailssuchasaweltpocket,notchedcollar,andfullliningaretypicalinpatternsfortailoredfashions.

Tailoringalsocallsforextensiveuseofinterfacingsforbuildinginshape.Entiregarmentsections,notjustthedetails,arebackedwithinterfacingwhentailored.Twolayersofinterfacingmaybeusedforshapingtherolllineonjacketlapels.Becausedifferentkindsofinterfacingshavedistinctiveeffects,asingletailoredjacketmayrequireseveraltypesofinterfacing.

Fusibleinterfacingshaveeliminatedmostofthetime-consuminghandworkthatwasoncethetrademarkoftailoring.Withfusiblesyoucantailorexpertlywithjustalittlepractice.However,it’simportanttochoosetherightfashionfabricandinterfacingforthetailoringtaskathand.

UsingFusibleInterfacings

Fourtypesoffusibleinterfacingsmaybeusedfortailoring;oftenallfourareusedinonegarment.Fusibletricot,aknittedinterfacing,addsbodyandsupporttothefabricwithoutcausingstiffness.Useittostabilizegarmentsectionssuchassleeves,hems,frontfacings,andtheuppercollar.Fusiblehaircanvas,awoveninterfacing,isfirmandresilient.Useitforthejacketfrontandundercollarwhenthefabricneedsstrongsupport.Weftinsertionfusibleisaknittedinterfacingwithextrayarnsinsertedcrosswise.Inamediumweight,itisasofteralternativetohaircanvasandisusedtostabilizefashiondetails,suchasventsonjackethemsandtherolllinesoflapelsandundercollars.Inalighterweight,itisanalternativetofusibletricot.Crisp,nonwovenfusibleinterfacingisusedtokeepsmalldetails,suchaspocketflaps,firmandsmooth.

Testfusibleinterfacingsbymakingasamplewhentailoring.Becauseentiresectionsofthegarmentwillbeinterfaced,thesampleshouldbelargeenoughtodrapeoveryourhand,atleast6"(15cm)square(largerifyoucansparethefabric).Theidealmethodfortestingfusibleinterfacingsistofuse6"(15cm)squaresofdifferenttypesofinterfacingonalongpanel,leavingplainfabricinbetween.Thecontrastinfeelingbetweeninterfacedandnoninterfacedareasclearlyshowstheeffectofeachinterfacing.

ChoosingTailoringFabrics

Whentailoringwithfusibleinterfacings,you’llbemoresatisfiedifyoubeginwithadurablefabricofgoodquality.Naturalfiberfabrics,suchaswool,cotton,silk,andlinen,respondwelltofusing.Manyfabricsmadefromsyntheticfibersandblends,suchaspolyesterandrayon,fusenicely,too.However,somesyntheticsandmetallicfibersaretooheatsensitiveforfusibleinterfacings.

Texturedfabrics,suchastweedsandlinenweaves,tailorwell;theirsurfacesgivethefusibleadhesivesomethingtogripforastrongbond.Ontheotherhand,somefabricswithtightweavesandsmoothsurfaces,suchasfinepolyestergabardines,resistsmoothfusingandshouldbeusedwithsew-ininterfacing.

Preshrinktailoringfabricstopreparethemfortheextrasteamusedwhenfusinginterfacingsandtopreventshrinkageofthegarment.Thoroughsteam-pressingpreshrinksfabriceffectivelywithoutsacrificingthefresh,newlook.Steam-pressfabricathome,orhaveadrycleanerdoitforyou.Afasterandeasierpreshrinkingmethodistossingthefabricintoaclothesdryerwithafewdamptowels.Tumbleforseventotenminutesatamedium-highheat.Removeimmediately;layflattodry.Steam-pressifnecessary.

SequenceforTailoringaJacket

Thefirststepintailoringajacketistofuseinterfacingontothemajorsections.Makepocketsnext.Thensewthejackettogetherandmakeanotchedorshawlcollar.Finishthesleeves,includingthesleevehems,andsetthemin.Shapetheshoulderswithshoulderpadsandsleeveheads.Hemthejacket,andsewtheliningasthefinalstep.

INTERFACINGTHEJACKETSECTIONS

Inonesession,fuseinterfacingtothejacketfront,facing,back,collar,undercollar,andsleeves.Groupingtheworkisanefficientwaytopreparemajorjacketsectionsforthestepsthatfollow.Afterfusing,letthesectionscoolanddryonaflatsurface.Waitovernightbeforehandlingmedium-toheavyweightwoolensandtexturedtweeds.Waitoneortwohoursforfabricsoflighterweight.

Fusibleinterfacingiscutontheseamlineratherthanthecuttinglineinallplacesexceptatthearmhole.Stitchinterfacingintheseamatthearmholetosupportthesleeve.Forlightweightfabrics,usethecuttinglineattheheminsteadofthehemfoldline.

HowtoInterfaceaJacketFrontandFacing

Traceseamlinesofjacketfrontandsidefrontpatternpiecesonfusibleweftinsertionorhaircanvas.Transferallpatternmarkingstointerfacing,includinglapelrolllineanddartstitchinglines;itisunnecessarytomarkfashionfabric.

Cutoutanydartsondartstitchinglinestoeliminatebulk.Dartinfashionfabricwillbestitchedalongcutedgeofinterfacing.

Placeinterfacing,adhesivesidedown,onwrongsideofjacketsections.Placepatternontoptopositiondartsandedgesofinterfacingatseamlines.Usingdryiron,tackinterfacinginplacetoprepareforpermanentfusing.Setpatternpieceaside.

Placepressclothoninterfacing.Beginatcenterofsection,thenfuseeachend.Toavoiddisturbingfusedsections,fuseremainingareasbyalternatingfromonesidetotheother.Neverslideiron,whichcouldcauselayerstoshift.

Turnjacketsectionovertorightside.Usingdrypressclothtoprotectrightsideoffabric,pressthoroughlywithsteamiron.Layflattoallowfusedsectionstocoolanddrycompletely.

Fusetricotknitinterfacingorlightweightnonwoveninterfacingtofrontfacingsaftertrimmingseamallowancesatfrontoffacings.Interfacingextendstoouteredgeoffacing.

ShapingLapels

Layer.Addsecondlayerofinterfacingtolapelareaonly.Useweftinsertionfusibleinterfacing,andcutittofitfromrolllinetoseamlineoflapel;rolllineshouldbeplacedonstraightgrainofinterfacingtostabilizebiasgrainofjacketatrollline.

Hinge.Whenusingfusiblehaircanvas,useahingedrolllineforasharperedgeonbulkyorheavyweightfabrics.Tomakeahinge,cutinterfacingonlapelrolllinebeforefusinginterfacingtojacketfront.

Tape.Usenarrowtwilltape¼"to½"(6mmto1.3cm)shorterthanlapelrolllinetocontourrollline;shortentape½"(1.3cm)forfullbust.Placeoneedgeoftapenexttorollline;zigzagbothtapeedgestojacket,easinginterfacingtofittape.

Foldfusedlapelonrollline,andpressacrease.Donotpresscreaseatlower2"(5cm)oflapelrollline;gentlysteamthisareainstead.Laylapelovertailor’shamforpressing.Leavelapelonhamuntillapeliscompletelycoolanddry.

HowtoInterfaceaJacketBackwithFusibleInterfacing

Cutinterfacingforjacketbackfromsameinterfacingusedforjacketfront,oruselighterweightinterfacing.Cutandmarkasforjacketfrontinterfacing,page186,steps1and2.

Fuseinterfacingtojacketback,usingsametechniqueasforinterfacingjacketfront,page187,steps3to5.Fuseinterfacingtobothjacketbacksectionsbeforestitchingcenterbackseam.

HowtoInterfaceaJacketBackandHem

Cutpartialjacketbackinterfacingfromlightweightwovenfabricwhengarmentdoesnotneedafusedinterfacingfortheentireback.Stitchdartsseparatelyininterfacingandgarment.Pressinterfacingdartstowardarmholeandgarmentdartstowardcenterback.

Staystitchinterfacingtojacketback,½"(1.3cm)fromrawedges.Includenarrowtwilltapestayinstaystitchingatshoulderstopreventbiasshoulderseamfromstretching.

Hemwithoutvent.Cutfusibleknitornonwoveninterfacingcrosswisetofitshapeofhemfromhemfoldtorawedge;cutfusibleweftinsertiononthebias.Fuseasforjacketfrontinterfacing,page187,steps3to6.

Hemwithvent.Cutinterfacingtostabilizeventunderlapandoverlap.Placestraightgrainofinterfacingonlapfoldlines.

HowtoInterfaceandShapeaJacketUndercollar

Cutundercollarfromfusibleweftinsertionorhaircanvasonbiasgrain.Tocutcollarstandinterfacing,traceundercollarpatternfromrolllinetonecklineseam;placecenterbackseamonstraightgrainfold.

Transferallpatternmarkingstobothlayersofinterfacing.Fuseinterfacingtoundercollar;stitchcenterbackseam.Fusestandafterstitchingseam.

Foldundercollaronrollline,andpressasharpcrease.Pinaspressedaroundtailor’sham,andsteam.Leaveinplaceonhamuntilcompletelycoolanddry.

HowtoInterfaceSleeves

Uselightweightfusibleinterfacingforcomfortandappearance.Cutinterfacingonseamlinesofsleevepattern.Atsleevehem,usecuttinglineinsteadofseamline.Transferallpatternmarkingstosleeveinterfacing.

Fuseinterfacingtosleevesectionsbeforesewingseams.

Alternativemethod:Backthejacketsleeveswithbatiste.Transferpatternmarkingstobatiste.Staystitchbatistetosleeve,½"(1.3cm)fromrawedges.Machine-bastealonghemandventfoldlines.

TAILORINGANOTCHEDCOLLAR

Anotchedcollartakesitsnamefromtheangleofthejacketcollarwhereitjoinsthejacketlapels.Theseamsthatmeetthereformanotch,orV-shapedcutout,oneachsideoftheneckline.Theseamisthegorgeline.Acrisp,flat,evennotchisahallmarkoffinetailoring.Thekeytothisdetailisanartfulcombinationofstitchingandpressing,pluscarefultrimmingofenclosedseamallowancestoreducebulk.

Severalpatternpiecesareneededtomakeanotchedcollar.Theundercollar,interfacedandshaped,isthefirstsectiontobesewntothejacket.Next,sewtheuppercollartothefacing;aportionofthisfacingbecomestheoutsideofthelapelswhenthecollarisfinished.Aftersewingthefinalseam,whichattachesthecollar/facingsectiontothejacket,pressandedgestitchortopstitch,usingtechniquesonpage193toshapeandstitchthenotches.

HowtoSewaNotchedCollar

Staystitchjacket½"(1.3cm)fromnecklinerawedge.Cliptostaystitching.Thisreleasescurvednecklineseamallowancesoitliesflatforeasiersewing.

Matchpatternmarkingstolineupundercollarandjacketnecklineedge.Stitchundercollartojacketnecklineuptopatternmarkingsonlapels(arrow);cliptomarking.

Pressseamopenovertailor’sham.Trimseamallowancesto¼"(6mm)toreducebulk.

Staystitchfacing½"(1.3cm)fromnecklineedge.Cliptostaystitching.Stitchcollartofacingnecklineuptopatternmarkingsonlapels;cliptomarking.

Pressseamopenovertailor’sham.Trimseamallowancesto3/8"(1cm),slightlywiderthanundercollartoreducebulk.

Pincollar/facingsectiontoundercollar/jacketsection,pinningthroughseamsatcollarnotches(arrow)tobesuretheseamslineupprecisely.

Trimexcessfabricofcollarseamallowancetostitchinglineonupperandundercollar.

Stitchseam,startingatbottomofonejacketedge.Shortenstitches1"(2.5cm)fromlapel.Takeoneortwoshortstitchesdiagonallyacrosslapelpoint.(Lapelremovedfrommachinetoshowstitching.)

Stitchfromlapelpointtocollarpoint,holdingseamstraighttoensurethatnotchesmatchonbothsidesofjacketcollar.Finishstitchingseam,usingsametechniqueonotherside.

Pressseamopen,usingpointpresseratlapelandcollarpoints.Diagonallytrimcornersclosetostitching.Gradeseamallowanceonundercollar/lapelto¼"(6mm),andoncollar/facingto3/8"(1cm).Continuegradingtolapelrollline.

Clipseamatendsoflapelrollline.Belowclips,gradejacketfrontseamallowanceto3/8"(1cm)andfacingto¼"(6mm).Pressseamopen;turnrightsideout.

Tackupperandundercollarseamstogetherwithlooserunningstitch.Ifseamsdonotlineupexactlybecauseofbulkoffabric,tacktheseamswheretheymeet.

TipsforPressingaTailoredCollar

Presscollarandlapelsfromunderside.Rollseamtowardundersideofcollarandlapels,stoppingabout1"(2.5cm)fromendoflapelrollline.Press,usingtailor’sclappertoforcesteamoutoffabric;thiscreatescrispedge.

Presslower1"(2.5cm)oflapelrolllinesoseamisatedge.Workfromundersideoflapels.

Pressjacketfrontbelowlapelrolllinefrominside.Presssoseamrollstowardjacketfacing.

HowtoTopstitchaTailoredCollar

Topstitchonrightsideofjacket,beginningatoneloweredge.Whenusingtopstitchingthreadintheneedle,stopatbottomoflapelrollline.Clipthreads.Pullthreadsthroughtofacingside;buryendsbetweenfacingandgarment.

Continuetopstitchingfromrightsideoflapel.Startatexactpointwherestitchingended,oroverlaptwostitches.Atcollarnotch,pivotandstitchuptonotchedge.(Thegarmentisoffthemachineonlytoshowdetail.Donotremovefrommachine.)

Shortenstitchlength,pivot,andstitchintheditchtotopstitchinglineofcollar.Pivot,andstitcharoundcollartoothernotch.Repeatatsecondnotch.Breaktopstitchingatendoflapelrolllineasdescribedinstep1.

SHAPINGTHESHOULDERS

Jacketsneedinsidesupportforfirm,smoothshapeattheshoulders.Intailoring,thetwoimportantshapingaidsareshoulderpadsandsleeveheads.

Shoulderpadscanbecustom-madetofitthejacketarmhole,usingthejacketpatternpieces.Tofityourfigure,adjustthesizeandthicknessoftheshoulderpad.Ifoneshoulderishigherthantheotherone,thepadcanbemadethickertocompensateforthedifference.Ifyourshouldersaresloping,useathickerpadthanthepatternsuggests.Forsquareshoulders,useathinnershoulderpad.

Ontailoredgarmentssuchasjacketsandcoats,thefrontoftheshoulderpadiswiderthanthebacktofillinthehollowareabelowtheshoulderandtocreateasmoothline.Thebackisnarrowerthanthefronttofitaroundtheshoulderblades.Forafullbust,maketheshoulderpadslightlyshorterinfront.Wheneveryoutryonthejacketorcoatforfitting,sliptheshoulderpadsinplace.Theshapeandsizeoftheshoulderpadscanmakeabigdifferenceinthewaytheshoulderandsleevefit.

Tobuildthepadstothedesiredthickness,cutgraduatedlayersofathinfiller,suchaspolyesterfleeceorcotton/polyesterquiltbatting.Thesefillersaddliftwithoutbeingtoosoft.Fortheupperlayerofashoulderpad,usefusiblehaircanvas.Thegoat’shairfibersinthecanvasgripthejacketfabric,helpingtosecurethepadtothegarment.Also,thestrong,resilientcanvasmakestheshoulderpadsfirmandwrinklefree.

Sleeveheadsarestripsoffillerthatsupportthesleevecapsonatailoredjackettoboostthecapsandsmoothoutanywrinkleswherethesleevewaseasedtofitthearmhole.Sleeveheadsalsoimprovethewaythejacketsleevesdrape.Thesamefillerusedforshoulderpads(fleeceorquiltbatting)canbeusedtomakesleeveheads.Necktieinterfacingcutonthetruebiasgraincanalsobeused.

HowtoMakeaCustomShoulderPad

Lapjacketfrontandbackpatternsatshoulderseam.Tracearmholebetweenfrontandbacknotches.Endshoulderpadpattern½"(1.3cm)fromneckseamedge,about5"(12.5cm)fromarmhole.Markshoulderseamonpadpattern.Labelarmholefrontandarmholeback.

Cutpatternfromfusiblehaircanvas.Transfershoulderseammarkings.Markfrontandbackofarmholeoncanvas.Alsocutfourlayersoffiller,graduallyreducinglayersbyabout¾"(2cm)insize,tomake½"(1.3cm)thickpad.Adjustsizesandnumbersoflayerstomakepaddesiredthickness.

Stitcharoundarmholeedgeandacrossshouldermarkingwithrunningstitchestoholdfillerlayerstogether.Addmorerowsofstitchesabout1"(2.5cm)apart,fanningrowsoutfromarmholeedge.

Fusehaircanvastowidestlayeroffleece,placingpadovertailor’shamtopresspadtoshapeofshoulder.Tackpadtojacketbyhand,placingcanvaslayernexttojacket.

HowtoMakeaSleeveHead

Cutstripoffiller17/8"(4.7cm)deepandthelengthofjacketsleevecap.Sleevecapiseasedareaofset-insleeve,betweenpatternmarkings.Matchonelongedgeofsleeveheadtorawedgeofarmholeseamallowance.

Stitchsleeveheadtoseamlinearoundsleevecap,usingrunningstitches.Whensleeveisturnedrightsideout,sleeveheadfoldsintotwolayers.Toplayerextendsbeyondbottomlayertopreventridgeonoutsideofjacket.

TAILOREDHEMS

Tailoredhemsonjacketsandjacketsleevesarebestputinwithacatchstitch.Thesearesmallhorizontalstitchesmadeinazigzagpattern.Withablindcatchstitch,thestitchesdonotshowfromtheinsideortheoutsidebecausetheyareworkedbetweenthehemedgeandthejacketorsleeve.Thehemisnotheldtightlyagainstthegarment;itshouldbesewnlooselywithsomeplayattherawedge.Atailoredhemshouldnotshowaridgeontheoutsideofthejacketafterpressing,evenifabulkyfabricisused.

Determinehemlengthsonjacketsandsleevesbeforecuttingoutthepatternpieces.Althoughthedepthcanvary,thestandardhemonajacketis2"(5cm)deep.Thestandardsleevehemis1½"(3.8cm)deep.Hemajacketaftercompletingthecollarorbeforesewinginthelining.Foreasierhandling,sewsleevehemsbeforesettingthesleevesintothejacket.

Trimming.Trimseamallowanceswithinthehemtohalftheirwidth,fromrawedgeofhemtohemlineonly.Thisreducesbulkandpreventsbumpswhereseamscrosshemline.

Edgefinishing.Liningcoversthehemedgewhenajacketiscompleted,sofinishtheedgeonlyifthefabricravelsorstretches.Useanonbulkyzigzagged,overlocked,orstitched-and-pinkedfinish.Ifyouhavefusedtheinterfacing,theedgeneedsnofurtherfinishing.

Pressing.Pressthehembeforesewing.Ifthehemisverycurved,usealineofeasestitchingalongtherawedgetohelpeaseinfabricfullness.

HowtoSewaTailoredHem

Turnhemupandpressathemfoldline.Openoutpressedhemandtrimseamallowancestohalfwidthfromrawedgeofhemtofoldline.Basteheminplaceclosetofold.

Press,lettingsteampenetratefabrictoeaseextrafullnessinsmoothly.Toavoidaridgeonrightside,donotpressoverupperedgeofhem.

Catchstitchforlinedgarments.Worklooselyoverhemedgefromlefttoright.Makestitchinhem,catchingoneortwothreads;thenmakeastitchjustoutsidehemedge,catchingonegarmentthread.Alternatestitchesinzigzagpattern.

Blindcatchstitchforunlinedgarments.Finishrawedgewithappropriateedgefinish.Basteheminplaceclosetofinishededge.Foldhemedgedownandlooselycatchstitchbetweenhemandgarment.Stitchingisnotvisible.

HowtoHemaJacketVent

Arrangeventinfinishedposition.Clipseamsounderlapliesflat.Frominsideofjacket,ventunderlapisontopwithseamallowancepressedback;overlaponbottomhasself-facingfoldedback.

Presshemintopositiononoverlap.Pressfoldathemandatventself-facingtoprepareformitering.Clipventfacingandhemallowancewheretwoedgesmeet.

Openoutcorner.Markstitchinglinefromclips(arrows)throughcornerpointwherepressedlinesmeet.Foldthroughcorner(dottedline),withrightsidestogether,matchingclipmarks.

Stitchonmarkedline.Trimseamto¼"(6mm).Pressseamopen;turntorightside.

Foldhemtooutsideonventunderlap,rightsidestogether.Stitchseamfromhemfoldtotopofhem.Trimto¼"(6mm)andpressopen;turnrightsideout.Catchstitchhemandventinplace.

Arrangeventinfinishedposition.Stitchacrosstopofventfrominsidethroughalllayers.Gradeseam.

LINING

Liningagarmentservesseveralpurposes:ithidesseamallowances,protectsthemfromfraying,andhelpsthegarmentretainitsshape.Forjacketsandcoats,thesmoothsurfaceoftheliningmakesiteasiertoputonthegarmentoverashirtorsweater.Forskirtsandpants,liningoftenmakesthegarmentmorecomfortableagainsttheskin.

LiningaJacket

Aliningiscutandsewnalongthesamestylelinesasajacket,buthasextradetailstoaddcomfort.Apleatinthecenterbackoftheliningallowsforwearingeaseacrossshouldersandupperback.Apleatalsoisformedbetweentheliningandhems.Thisisajumphem,anditallowsyoutomovecomfortablywithoutstrainingthestitches.

Somejacketpatternsprovideseparatepatternpiecesforthelining,andothersfurnishcuttinglinesfortheliningonthejacketpatternitself.Ifthesamepatternisusedforthesleeveandthesleevelining,cutthesleevelining½"(1.3cm)higherattheunderarms.Thisallowstheliningtorestabovethejacketunderarmseamsandpreventsbindingatthearmholes.Whenaseparatesleeveliningpatternisprovided,thismayhavebeendoneforyou.

Cutthejacketandsleevelining½"(1.3cm)longerthanthefinishedlengthafterhemming.Aftertheliningisappliedtojacketandsleevehems,thefinishededgeswillfalljustbelowthehalfwaypointonthejacketandsleevehems.Ifyouadjustthejacketorsleeves,makethesameadjustmentsontheliningpatterns.

HowtoLineaJacket

Stitchliningsectionstogether,includingsleeves.Reinforcearmholeseamwithtworowsofstitching.Foldandmachine-bastecenterbackpleatattopandbottomoflining.Staystitch½"(1.3cm)fromneckline,sleeve,andloweredgesoflining;cliptostaystitchingatneckline.

Turnjacketfacingout.Withrightsidestogether,stitchliningtofacing.Oneachsideinfront,leaveseamunstitchedfortwicethedepthofhem.(Leave4"[10cm]unstitchedifjackethemis2"[5cm]deep.)Clipseamallowanceatcurves.Pressseamasstitched.

Matchseamallowancesofliningandjacketatshoulder and

underarm seams;tackinplace.Turnliningrightsideout.Smoothsleevesintopositiononinsideofjacket.Lightlypressfacing/liningseamallowancestowardlining,usingapresscloth.

Trimrawedgesoffrontfacingtoneatenthem,ifnecessary.Whipstitchrawedgestohem.Turnliningunderonstaystitchinglineatloweredge.Pinsorawedgeofliningisevenwithtopedgeofjackethem.

Slipstitchliningfoldtojackethem,sewingthroughjackethemallowanceonly.Atfrontedges,foldlininghemdowntoformpleat,andslipstitchtofacingoneachside.

Sewliningtoeachsleevehem,followingsteps4and5.Sewjumphemaroundentiresleeve,evenifsleevehemhasvent;sleeveventsaredecorativeandnotmeanttoopenandclose.Presssleevelininghemoverseamroll.

HowtoLineaJacketwithaHemVent

Stitchcenterbackseamtomarkingattopofvent;clipintoseamsoleftsideofventliesflat.Staystitchrightsideofventonseamlineacrosstopandonfoldline.Clipintocornertofoldunderrawedgeonstaystitching.Attachliningtojacketfacing,followingsteps1to3,opposite.

Matchcenterbackseamsofliningandjacketatventopening.Foldunder5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceacrosstopofleftventlininganddownside.Pinliningtosideedgesofventonjacket;leavetopedgeunpinned.Matchrawedgeofliningtojackethemedge,formingpleatatbottomofvent.

Sewliningtohems,followingsteps4and5,above.Slipstitchventliningalongventsideedges.Stitchacrosstopofventlining.Topreventliningfrompullingattopofvent,slipstitchesshouldnotgothroughtojacketfabric.

LININGASKIRTORPANTS

Fewpatternsprovideliningsforskirtsandpants,butaddingaliningmakesgarmentshangbetterandiseasytoaccomplish.Themethodgivenhereisforasliplining,whichisfree-hangingandattachedatthewaistline;theskirtorpantsandtheliningarehemmedseparately.Anadvantageofaslipliningisthatthegarmentiseasytopressbecauseyoucanliftthewholeliningout.

Unlikejacketandcoatlinings,skirtandpantsliningsarewornagainstyourskin.Inwarmorhumidclimates,fabricsmadefromrayon,cotton,orcottonblendsmayfeelmorecomfortablethanthosemadefrompolyesterandsimilarsyntheticfibers.

TipsforLiningSkirtsandPants

Cuttheliningfromthemajorfrontandbackpatternpieces.Omitsmallpatternpiecessuchasthewaistband,facings,andpockets.Foragatheredskirtinalightweightfabric,theskirtandliningmaybetreatedasonelayeroffabric.Foraheavierweightgatheredskirt,cuttheliningfromapatternforasimpleA-lineskirt,ormakesmallpleatsorreleasedtucksinsteadofgathersinthelining.Orpleatoutthefullnessfromthetissuepatternbeforecuttingthelining,allowingsomeeaseformovement.Anyofthesemethodseliminatesbulkatthewaistline.

Omitanyseamextensionsforinseampocketswhenyoucutoutalining.Straightenthecuttinglinesonthefrontandbackpatternpiecestochangethepocketopeningstoplainseams.Ifthegarmenthasslantedpockets,lapthefrontpatternpiecestocuttheliningwithoutpockets.

Shortenthepatternpiecessotheliningwillbe1"(2.5cm)shorterthantheskirtorpantsafterhemming.Ifyouplantomakea1"(2.5cm)heminthelining,cuttheloweredgeoftheliningatthehemlineoftheskirtorpants.

Transferpatternmarkingsatthezipperopeningandthewaisttotheliningsectionsaftercutting.Thesemarkingswillhelpyoupositionthelininginsidetheskirtorpants.

Assembletheskirtorpants,includingthezipperandpockets,beforeattachingthelining.Allstitchingonthegarmentshouldbecompletedexceptforthewaistbandandthehem.Pressseamsopen.Unlessthefabricravelseasily,itisnotnecessarytofinishtheseams.

HowtoLineaSkirt

Stitchliningseams,leavingseamopenatzipper;pressopen.Slipliningoverskirt,wrongsidestogether,matchingseams.Machine-bastetogetheronwaistseamline,foldingliningunderatzipperedge.

Foldliningedgesundertoexposezippercoilandalloweasyopeningandclosingofzipper.Pinandslipstitchliningtozippertape.

Applywaistband.Hemliningsoitis1"(2.5cm)shorterthanskirt.Sewlininghembyhandormachine,asdesired.

Darts,Ease,orPleatsinLinings

Darts.Pintucksintheskirtorpantslining,matchingthedartmarkings.Dartsinskirtorpantsarepressedtowardcenterfrontandback.Presstucksinlininginoppositedirectiontoreducebulk.

Easedorslightlygatheredarea.

Slipliningoverskirt,wrongsidestogether.Machine-basteatwaistlineseam.Gatherliningandskirtasiftheywereonelayeroffabric,pullingupeasetofitwaistband.

Pleat-frontskirtsorpants.

Machine-bastepleatsseparatelyinliningandgarment.Pressliningpleatsflatinoppositedirectionofskirtpleats.Slipliningoverskirt,wrongsidestogether.Machine-basteatwaistline.

SewingActivewear

ELASTICIZEDWAISTBANDS

Elasticizedwaistbandsarecomfortabletowearandeasytosew.Theycomplementthestretchofknitfabrics.Someelasticizedwaistbandsare“cuton,”whichmeansthewaistbandsarecutasanextensionofthegarmentatthewaistlineedge,whileothersareaseparatewaistbandpiece.Chooseanapplicationtechniqueaccordingtothefabric,thegarmentstyle,andthetypeofelasticyouareusing.

Twotechniquesforcut-onwaistbandsareincluded:onewithacasingandonewithtopstitching.Bothareappropriateforgarmentsmadefromlightweighttomedium-weightfabrics.Cut-onwaistbandswithcasings

giveacasuallook.Firmbraidedorwovenelasticsarewellsuitedforthistechnique.Becausetheelasticisnotcaughtinthewaistlineseam,itcaneasilybeadjustedforabetterfit,ifnecessary.Cut-onwaistbands

withtopstitching giveavarietyoflooks,dependingonthetypeoftopstitching.Useanelasticwithgoodstretchandrecoveryqualitiessotheelasticwillstretchtothecircumferenceofthegarmentopening,yet

retainitsfit.Drawstringelastic maybeusedforthismethod.

Twoadditionaltechniquesareincludedforwaistbandsthatuseaseparatewaistbandpiece:smoothwaistbandsandshirredwaistbands.Whensewinggarmentsfromlightweightormedium-weightknits,youmaycutthewaistbandfromselffabric.Whensewingbulkyfabrics,suchassweatshirtfleece,choosematchingribbingforthewaistbandor,foramoredecorativeeffect,acontrastingfabric.

Smoothseparatewaistbands givethesmoothappearanceofatraditionalwaistbandwhenthegarmentisworn.Thiswaistbandstyleissuitableforaslim-fittinggarmentmadefromlightweightormedium-weightknitfabricwithmoderatestretch.Useafirm1"or1¼"(2.5or3.2cm)elastic.

Shirredseparatewaistbands complementfullergarmentstyles,suchasfullskirts,andareespeciallyattractivewhenusedwithwiderelastics.Shirredwaistbandsmaybetopstitchedornot,dependingonthelookyouprefer.Firmelasticisrecommendedforthistypeofwaistband.

Ingeneral,cutelastics2"to3"(5to7.5cm)lessthanyourwaistmeasurement.Cutsoft,lightweightelastics,suchasknitelastics,3"to5"(7.5to12.5cm)lessthanyourwaistmeasurement.Cutveryfirmelastics,suchasnonrollwaistbandelastic,equalto,or1"(2.5cm)lessthan,yourwaistmeasurement.Marktheelastic,andpinitaroundyourwaistlinebeforecuttingit.Checktoseethattheelasticfitscomfortablyaroundyourwaistandpullsoveryourhipseasily.

Multiplerowsoftopstitchingcancauseelastictolosesomeofitsrecovery.Ifyouareusingamethodthatcallsfortopstitching,youmaywanttocuttheelasticupto1"(2.5cm)shorterthantheguidelines,toensureasnugfit.

TipsforSewingElasticizedWaistbands

Preshrinkelasticsforcasingapplicationsbeforemeasuring.Elasticsthatwillbestitchedondonotrequirepreshrinking.

Uselongerstitches,abouteighttoninestitchesperinch(2.5cm),whenstitchingthroughtheelastic;thestitcheswillappearshorterwhenelasticisrelaxed.Astitchlengththatistooshortweakensandstretchesouttheelastic.

Steamthefinishedwaistbandafterconstruction,holdingtheironabovethefabric,tohelptheelasticreturntoitsoriginallength.

TwoWaystoJointheEndsoftheElastic

Buttedmethod.Buttendsofelastic.Stitchbackandforth,using3-stepzigzagstitchorwidezigzagstitch,catchingbothendsofelasticinstitching.Thismethodisrecommendedforfirmelastics.

Overlappedmethod.Overlapendsofelastic½"(1.3cm).Stitchbackandforththroughbothlayers,usingwidezigzagstitchor3-stepzigzagstitch.Useforsoftelastics,suchasknittedelastic.

HowtoSewaCut-onWaistbandwithaCasing

Extendgarmentpatternpiecesabovewaistlinetwicethewidthoftheelasticplus5/8"(1.5cm).Cutoutgarmentsections,andstitchtogether.

Overlockrawedgeatwaist,ifdesired.Foldedgeoffabrictowrongside,anamountequaltowidthofelasticplus½"(1.3cm).Edgestitchclosetofold.

Joinendsofelastic(page203).Positionelasticwithinfoldedcasingarea.Stitchnexttoelastic,usingstraightstitchandzipperfoot;donotcatchelasticinstitching.Shiftfabricaroundelasticasnecessarywhilestitching.

Stretchwaistbandtodistributefabricevenly.Fromrightsideofgarment,stitchintheditchthroughallwaistbandlayers,atcenterfront,centerback,andsideseams,tosecureelastic.

Alternatemethod.

Followsteps1and2,above.Markelastictodesiredlength;donotcut.Positionelasticwithinfoldedcasingarea.Stitchnexttoelastic,usingstraightstitchandzipperfoot,leaving2"(5cm)unstitched;donotcatchelasticinstitching.

Pullelasticthroughtomarking;secure,usingsafetypin.Tryongarmenttocheckfit;adjustelastic,ifnecessary.Cutandjoinendsofelastic(page203).Completewaistbandstitching.Stitchintheditchasinstep4.

HowtoSewaCut-onWaistbandwithTopstitching

Extendgarmentpatternpiecesabovewaistlinetwicethewidthoftheelastic.Cutoutgarmentsections,andstitchtogether.Joinendsofelastic(page203).

Divideelasticandgarmentedgeintofourths;pin-mark.Pinelastictowrongsideofgarment,withedgeseven,matchingpinmarks;overlockorzigzag,stretchingelastictofitbetweenpins.Ifusingoverlockmachine,guideworkcarefullyordisengageknivestoavoidcuttingelastic.

Foldelastictowrongsideofgarmentsofabricencaseselastic.Fromrightsideofgarment,stitchintheditchthroughallwaistbandlayers,atcenterfront,centerback,andsideseams,tosecureelastic.

Topstitchthroughalllayers,stretchingelasticasyousew.Straight-stitchornarrowzigzagclosetoloweredgeofcasing,usinglongstitches ;zigzagclosetoloweredge,usingmedium-to-widestitches ;double-needletopstitchclosetoloweredge ;orstitchmultiple,evenrowsofstraightstitchingordouble-needlestitching.

Drawstring-elasticmethod.

Extendpatternpiecesasinstep1,above.Joinendsofdrawstringelastic,usingoverlappedmethod(page203).Stitchgarmentsectionstogether,leaving½"(1.3cm)openingincenterfrontseamindrawstringarea;topstitcharoundopeningtosecure.

Followstep2,above.Zigzagatloweredgeofelastic.Foldelastictowrongsideofgarmentsofabricencaseselastic.Straight-stitch¼"(6mm)fromupperandloweredgesofelastic,throughalllayers,stretchingelastictofit.Pulldrawstringthroughcenterfrontopening.Cutdrawstring,andknotends.

HowtoSewaSmoothSeparateWaistband

Markcuttinglineongarmentsectionpatternpieces5/8"(1.5cm)abovewaistline.Cutwaistbandoncrosswisegrain,twicethewidthofelasticplus1¼"(3.2cm);lengthofwaistbandisequaltoyourwaistmeasurementplus3¼"(8cm).Pinendsofwaistbandtogetherwith5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowances;checkfitoverhips.

Joinendsofwaistband;pressseamopen.Dividewaistbandandgarmentedgeintofourths;pin-mark.Pinwaistbandtorightsideofgarment,withrawedgeseven,matchingpinmarks.Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seam,usingstraightstitchornarrowzigzagstitch;ifusingstraightstitch,stretchfabricasyousew.

Joinendsofelastic(page203).Divideelasticandgarmentedgeintofourths;pin-mark.Placeelasticonseamallowanceofwaistband;pininplace,withloweredgeofelasticjustaboveseamline.Withelasticontop,stitchthroughbothseamallowances,usingwidezigzagormultiplezigzagstitch;stretchelastictofitbetweenpins.Trimseamallowances.

Foldwaistbandtightlyoverelastictowrongsideofgarment;pin.Stitchintheditchalongseamlinefromrightsideofgarment,stretchingelastic;catchwaistbandinstitchingonwrongsideofgarment,butdonotcatchelastic.Trimwaistbandseamallowanceto¼"(6mm)fromstitching.

HowtoSewaShirredSeparateWaistband

Markcuttinglineongarmentsectionpatternpieces5/8"(1.5cm)abovewaistline.Cutwaistbandoncrosswisegrain,twicethewidthofelasticplus1¼"(3.2cm);lengthofwaistbandisequaltoyourhipmeasurementplus1¼"(3.2cm).Joinendsofelastic(page203).

Joinendsofwaistbandin5/8"(1.5cm)seam;pressseamopen.Dividethewaistbandandgarmentedgesintofourths;pin-mark.Foldthewaistbandinhalflengthwise,wrongsidestogether,encasingelastic.Baste½"(1.3cm)fromrawedges,avoidingpins;shiftfabricaroundelasticasnecessary.

Pinwaistbandtorightsideofgarment,matchingpinmarks;ifgarmentisveryfull,gatherwaistlineedgebeforeattachingwaistband.Stitchjustinsidebastingstitches,stretchingwaistbandtofitgarmentbetweenpins.Trimseamallowancesto¼"(6mm).Overlockrawedges,ifdesired.

Stretchwaistbandtodistributefabricevenly.Fromrightsideofgarment,stitchperpendiculartothewaistlinethroughallwaistbandlayers,atthecenterbackandsideseams,tosecuretheelastic.Ifdesired,topstitchthroughalllayersasonpage205,step4.

RIBBEDEDGES

Themostcommonuseforribbingistofinishtheedgesofknitsportsweargarments.Ribbing,whichhasgreatcrosswisestretchandrecovery,enablesgarmentopeningstostretcheasilywhenyouaregettingdressedandreturntoaneat,comfortablefitduringwear.Ribbingisavailableasyardageandasprefinishedribbedbands.

Thewidthofribbingyardagerangesfrom28"to60"(71to152.5cm),or14"to30"(35.5to76cm)tubular,andisavailableinseveralweights.Touseribbingyardage,cutacrosswisestripofthefabric,folditinhalflengthwise,andapplyitsothefoldbecomesthefinishededge.

Prefinishedribbedbandshaveonefinishededgeandareappliedasasinglelayer.Theyareavailableinvariouswidthsandlengths,andindifferentweightsandstyles.

Ribbingcanbeusedasanedgefinishforseveralstylesofnecklines,includingturtleneck,mockturtleneck,crewneck,andscoop-neck.Itisalsousedonsleeves,loweredgesofTshirtsandsweatshirts,andwaistlinesofpantsandskirts.Thecutwidthandcutlengthoftheribbingvaries,dependingonwhereitwillbeusedandthestyleyouwant.

Ifyouuseribbingyardage,thecutwidthoftheribbingisequaltotwicethedesiredfinishedwidthplus½"(1.3cm)forseamallowances.Ifyouuseprefinishedribbedbands,thecutwidthisequaltothedesiredfinishedwidthplusone¼"(6mm)seamallowance.

Manypatternsdesignedforknitsindicatewhatlengthtocuttheribbing,ortheyprovideapatternpiecetobeusedasaguidefortheribbingpieces.Thecutlengthforribbingcanalsobedeterminedbymeasuringthegarmentopeningattheseamline,asshownopposite.

Forstraight,close-fittingedges,thecutlengthcanbedeterminedbypin-fittingtheribbingonthebody.Onstraightedgesthatdonotrequireaclosefit,suchastheloweredgeofaskirt,cuttheribbingslightlyshorterthanthegarmentedge.

Tosewribbededges,youmayuseeithertheflatorthein-the-roundmethodofconstruction.Flatconstructionisthefastestmethod;however,theseamsmaybenoticeableattheedgesoftheribbing.Forabetter-qualityfinish,thein-the-roundmethodisusuallypreferred.Withthismethod,theribbingseamsareenclosedforaneaterappearance.

Ifmatchingribbingisnotavailable,self-fabric,cutonthecrosswisegrain,canbesubstitutedforribbingyardage.Useaknitfabricthatstretchesatleast50percentcrosswise;forexample,10"(25.5cm)ofknitmuststretchtoatleast15"(38cm).

HowtoDeterminetheCutLength

Measureseamlineofgarmentopeningbystandingtapemeasureonedge.Fornecklines,cutribbingasdescribedatright.Forothergarmentopenings,ribbingisusuallycuttwo-thirdsofthemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).Ifself-fabricissubstitutedforribbing,cutitthree-fourthsofthemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).

Pin-fitribbingorself-fabricaroundbodyforstraight,close-fittingedges,suchasathiplines,wrists,andankles.Foldribbingcrosswisefordoublethickness,andpinribbingsoitliesflat,withoutgaping;donotdistorttheribs.Add½"(1.3cm)forseamallowances.

TypesofRibbedNecklines

Crewneckgarments usuallyhaveribbingwithafinishedwidthof1"to1¼"(2.5to3.2cm);thenecklineseamfalls¾"(2cm)belowthenaturalneckline.Cuttheribbingtwo-thirdsofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).

Turtleneckgarments haveribbingwithafinishedwidthof4"to6"(10to15cm).Thenecklineseamfallsatthenaturalneckline.Cuttheribbingthelengthofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).

Mockturtleneckgarments haveribbingwithafinishedwidthof2"to23/8"(5to6cm).Thenecklineseamfalls½"(1.3cm)belowthenaturalneckline.Cuttheribbingthree-fourthsofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).

Scoop-neckgarments haveroundednecklines,withtheedgeoftheribbingfallinglowerthanthenaturalnecklineinthefrontand,sometimes,intheback.Cuttheribbingtwo-thirdsofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).Thefinishedwidthoftheribbingvariesfrom¾"to1"(2to2.5cm).

Self-fabricmaybeusedinsteadofribbing.Forturtlenecks,cuttheself-fabricthelengthofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm);forcrewnecks,mockturtlenecks,andscoopnecks,cutitthree-fourthsofthenecklineplus½"(1.3cm).

HowtoSewRibbedEdges(flatmethod)

Cutgarmentpieces,allowing¼"(6mm)seamallowancesatgarmentopenings.Leaveoneseamunstitched.Ifusingribbingyardage,foldribbinginhalflengthwise,wrongsidestogether.Divideribbingandgarmentopeningintofourths;pin-mark.

Pinribbingtorightsideofgarment,matchingpinmarks.Withribbingontop,stitch¼"(6mm)seam,usingnarrowzigzagoroverlockstitch;stretchribbingtofitgarmentopeningasyousew.Lightlypressseamtowardgarment.

Stitchremaininggarmentseam,matchingribbingseamandendscarefully.Ifdesired,topstitchclosetoseamlineasinstep3,below.

HowtoSewRibbedEdges(in-the-roundmethod)

Joinendsofribbingin¼"(6mm)seam.Ifusingribbingyardage,foldribbinginhalflengthwise,wrongsidestogether.Divideribbingandgarmentopeningintofourths;pin-mark.

Pinribbingtorightsideofgarment,matchingpinmarks.Withribbingontop,stitch¼"(6mm)seam,usingnarrowzigzagoroverlockstitch;stretchribbingtofitgarmentopeningasyousew.Lightlypressseamtowardgarment.

Topstitchclosetoseamline,ifdesired,stitchingthroughgarmentandseamallowances,usingsingleordoubleneedle.Ifsingleneedleisused,stretchfabricslightlyasyousew.

HowtoApplyLappedRibbingtoaV-Neckline

Cutribbingslightlylongerthanthecutedgeofneckline.Withshortstitches,staystitchontheseamline2"(5cm)oneithersideoftheV.ClipcarefullytotheV.Foldribbinginhalflengthwise.

Pinribbingtoright-handsideofnecklinein¼"(6mm)seam;leave1"(2.5cm)forlapping.Withgarmentontop,beginstitchingatcenterfront.Stretchribbingslightlyasyousew.

Stopstitchingatshoulderseam.Measurebacknecklinebetweenshoulderseams.Markribbingwithpinatpointequaltotwo-thirdsthemeasuredlength.Matchpinmarktoshoulderseam.

Stitchribbingtogarmentacrossbacknecklineanddownleft-handsideofneckline,stretchingribbingslightly.StopstitchingbeforereachingpointofV,leavinganopeningequaltowidthofribbing.Removegarmentfrommachine.

Turnribbingseamtoinsideandthenlaygarmentoutflat.Tucktheextensionsinsidetheseamopeningwithright-handsideoverlappingleft.Pinribbingatcenterfrontinlappedposition.

Foldfrontofgarmentoutoftheway.Fromwrongside,stitchopeningclosed;pivotatpointofV,andstitchfreeendofribbingtorighthandseamallowance.Trimextensionsclosetostitches.

SWIMSUITSANDLEOTARDS

Patternsforswimsuitsandleotardsareusuallycloselyfittedforcomfortandeasymotion.Awiderangeofpatternstylesisavailable.Styleswithprincessseamsareslenderizing.Soarepatternswithacenterpanelofacontrastingcolor;tominimizehips,useadarkcolorforthesidepanels.High-cutlegopeningsonswimsuitsandleotardsgivetheappearanceoflongerlegsandaslimmertorso.Forafull-bustedfigure,chooseapatternwithabustlineshapedbydartsorseams.Tofilloutaslenderfigure,useapatternwithshirring,draping,orruffles.Orchooseasimplepatternstyleandasplashyprintedfabrictoenhanceaslenderfigure.

Bysewingyourownswimsuitsandleotards,youcanmakegarmentsthatmeetyourneeds.Addafullfrontliningtoaswimsuit,ifdesired;thisisespeciallyimportantforlightcoloredandlightweightfabrics.Oryoumaylinejustthecrotchareaoraddabandeaulininginthebustarea.Purchasedbracupsmaybesewnintothebandeauiffirmersupportisdesired.

Two-waystretchfabricstretchestofitthecontoursofmanydifferentfiguretypes.Selectthepatternaccordingtothebustmeasurementtoavoidextensivefittingadjustmentsatthebustline.Ifyourequiredifferentpatternsizesforthehipsandthebust,chooseamultisizepattern,followingthecuttinglinesfortheappropriatesizesandblendingthelinesinthewaistlinearea.

AdjustingthePattern

Forone-pieceswimsuitsandleotards,measureyourtorsolengthasshown,below,andcompareittothetorsolengthsgiveninthechartatright;donotmeasurethepatternpiecesforthiscomparison,becausetheywillmeasurelessthantheactualbodymeasurement.Ifyourtorsomeasurementfallswithintherangegivenforyourbustsize,nopatternadjustmentisneeded.

Ifyourtorsomeasurementisdifferentfromthelengthgiveninthechart,firstadjustthepatternfrontanamountequaltoone-fourththedifference,thenadjustthepatternbackthesameamount.Thetotalpatternadjustmentisonlyone-halfthedifferencebetweenyourtorsomeasurementandthechart;thetwo-waystretchfabricwillbestretchedwhenitisworn,automaticallygivingyoutherestofthelengthneeded.Ifeachpatternpiecehastwoadjustmentlines,dividethetotalamountofadjustmentneededequallyamongallfourlines.

Liningscanlimitthestretchoftheswimsuitfabric,soifyouaregoingtolinethefrontofaswimsuit,addanextra½"(1.3cm)oflengthtothefrontandbackpatternpieces.

ComparisonofBustSizeandTorsoLength

HowtoAdjusttheTorsoLengthonthePattern

Measurefromindentationatbreastboneinfront;bringtapemeasurebetweenyourlegstoprominentboneatbackofneck.Keepthetapemeasuresnugtoduplicatefitoffinishedgarment.Itishelpfultohavesomeonehelpyoutakethismeasurement.

Determinethedifferencebetweenyourtorsomeasurementandthetorsolengthgiveninthechart,above,thatcorrespondstoyourbustsize.Thepatternneedstobeadjustedanamountequaltoone-halfthedifference;distributethisamountequallyamongthepatternadjustmentlines.

Adjustthepattern,addingorsubtractinglengthtothepatternbyspreadingoroverlappingfrontandbackpatternpiecesontheadjustmentlines.Intheexampleshownhere,frontandbackpiecesarelengthened¼"(6mm)oneachadjustmentlineforatotaladjustmentof1"(2.5cm).

SewingSwimsuitsandLeotards

Beforelayingoutaswimsuitorleotardpattern,determinewhichdirectionofthefabrichasthegreateramountofstretch.Nylon/spandexknitsusuallystretchmoreinthelengthwisedirection;cotton/spandex,inthecrosswise.Foracomfortablefit,layoutthepatternonthefabricsothegreateramountofstretchwillencirclethebody.

Swimsuitsandleotardsarefastandeasytosew.Moststyleshaveonlyafewseamsandedgefinishes.Stitchthesideseamsandcrotchseamfirst;thentryonthegarmentandadjustthefitasneeded.

Ifaone-pieceswimsuitorleotardistoolonginthetorso,shortenitattheshoulderseams;ifthisraisestheneckline,theneckopeningcanbetrimmedasnecessary.Ifthearmholesaretoosmall,causingthegarmenttobindunderthearms,enlargethembytrimmingtheopenings.Legopeningsshouldfitsmoothly;iftheyaretoolarge,takeinthesideseamsattheloweredge,taperingtheseamsgradually.Stitchtheshoulderseamsafterthefitting,andapplytheelastic(pages216and217).

HowtoSewaBasicOne-pieceSwimsuitorLeotard

Determinewhetherthefabricstretchesmoreonlengthwiseorcrosswisegrain.Layoutpatternonfabricsothegreateramountofstretchwillencirclethebody.

Stitchcenterbackseam;thenstitchcrotchseam,applyingcrotchliningifdesired.Stitchsideseams.Checkgarmentforfit,opposite.

Applyfull-frontlining,ifdesired.Stitchshoulderseams.Applyelastictogarmentopenings(pages216and217).

HowtoSewaBasicTwo-pieceSwimsuit

Layoutthepatternasinstep1,opposite.Stitchseams,andmachine-basteliningtowrongsideofswimsuittop,bastingadistanceequaltowidthofelasticfromrawedges;trimliningclosetothestitching.Centerboning,ifused,onsideseamallowance,positionedsotheendswillcurveawayfrombody.Stitchoverpreviousstitchesalonginneredgeofboning.

Applyelastictoedgesofswimsuittop(pages216and217).Makestraps;stitchtogarment,usingnarrowzigzagstitch.Pullrightendthroughswimsuithook,folding½"(1.3cm)towrongside;zigzagacrossend.Foldleftend½"(1.3cm)towrongside;zigzaginplace.Garmentdetails,suchascenterfrontdetail,aresewnfollowingpattern.

Stitchcenterbackseamoftheswimsuitbottom.Applyfull-frontlining,ifdesired.Applyelastictoupperedgeandlegopeningsofswimsuitbottom(pages216and217).

AdjustingforaGoodFit

Adjustshoulderseamsforsnugfitifgarmentistoolongintorso.Adjustneckopeningifshoulderadjustmentraisedtheneckline,markingadjustmentwithchalk,thentrimmingonmarkedlines.

Adjustarmholeopeningsifthegarmentbindsunderthearms,markingtheadjustmentwithchalk,thentrimmingawayexcessfabric.

Adjustsideseams,ifnecessary,solegopeningsfitsnuglybeforetheelasticisapplied.

ElasticizedEdges

Tostabilizeedgesandtoensureasnugfitonswimsuitsandleotards,useelasticatnecklines,armholes,waistlines,andlegopenings.Elasticizededgesalsoallowyoutoslipthegarmentonandoffeasily.Althoughelasticizededgesdoself-adjusttoyourfigure,donotdependonthemtosolvefittingproblems.

Ifyouhavenotadjustedtheneckline,armhole,orlegopenings,cuttheelastictothelengthsspecifiedbythepattern.Ifyouhavechangedthesizeoftheopenings,followtheguidelinesgiveninthechartbelow.Mostpatternsprintthecuttinginformationfortheelasticontheguidesheetorprovideacuttingguideonthepatterntissue.Ifusingapatternwithseveralviews,besuretocuttheelasticforthestyleyouhavechosen;forexample,ahigh-cutlegopeningrequireslongerelasticthanastandardlegopening.

Cottonbraidedswimwearelasticortransparentelasticmaybeused.Bothtypesofelastic,withexcellentstretchandrecovery,arechlorineresistantandsalt-resistant.Mostpatternscallfor3/8"(1cm)elasticforadults’swimwearand¼"(6mm)elasticforchildren’s.

GuidelinesforCuttingElastic

HowtoApplyElastic

Necklineorwaistlineopenings.

Joinendsofelastic,usingoverlappedmethod(page203).Divideelasticintofourths;pin-mark,withonepinnexttojoinedendsofelastic.Dividegarmentopeningintofourths;pin-mark.Seamsmaynotbehalfwaybetweencenterfrontandcenterback.

Pinelastictowrongsideoffabric,matchingedgesandpinmarks.Placejoinedendsatcenterbackofnecklineorwaistline.

Stitchouteredgeofelastictothegarment,usingoverlockornarrowzigzagstitch;stretchelastictofitbetweenpins.Ifusingoverlockmachine,guideworkcarefullyordisengageknivestoavoidcuttingelastic.

Foldelastictowardinsideofgarment,encasingitingarmentfabric.

Stitchthroughalllayers,¼"(6mm)fromfoldededge,usinglongstraightstitchesornarrowzigzagstitches,stretchingasyousew.Ortopstitch,usingdoubleneedle.

Legopenings.Joinendsofelastic(page203).Pinelastictolegopening,withjointatsideseam.Keepelasticrelaxedongarmentfront;remainingelasticwillstretchtofitthebackoflegopening.Followsteps3to5,stretchingelasticasyousew.

HOMEDECORATING

DecoratorFabricsDecoratorfabricshavecharacteristicsnotfoundinfashionfabrics.Threadcounts,meaningthenumberofthreadspersquareinch(centimeter),aregenerallyhigherindecoratorfabrics,makingthemstronger.Stainresistantfinishesareusuallyappliedtodecoratorfabrics,sincetheymustgoforlongperiodsoftimewithoutbeingcleaned.Whencleaningisnecessary,mostdecoratorfabricsmustbedrycleanedtoavoidshrinkage.

Theweavepattern,fibercontent,andweightofthefabricwillhaveanimpactonthefinishedappearanceanddurabilityofhomedécoritems.Forwindowtreatments,thesefabriccharacteristicswillalsodeterminehowtheycontrollightandprivacy.

Lightweightopenweavesincludecasements,laces,eyelets,andsheers.Oftenthesefabricsarewovenin118"(300cm)widths,withthewidthintendedtorunvertically,allowingyoutomakefloor-lengthsheercurtainswithoutseams.Noveltysheershaveinterestingtexturalfeatures,sometimesarrangedinstripes.Mostsheersaremadeofpolyesterforstrengthandstability,thoughtheymayalsocontainotherdecorativefibers.Naturalfibers,includingcottonandlinen,arealsousedforsheerandlightweightfabrics.

Medium-weightfabricsincludeawiderangeoffibercontentsandweave

structures.Plainweaves maybesolidincolororprinted.Theirstrengthisdeterminedbytheclosenessoftheyarnsintheweave.Satin

weaves arewovensothatwarpyarnsfloatonthesurfaceovertwo

orthreeweftyarns,givingthefabricasubtlesheen.Theyalsomaybe

solidincolororprinted.Jacquardweaves ,includingdamasks,

tapestries,andbrocades,havewoven-indesigns.Noveltyweavesoftensolidcolors,featuretexturalinterestcreatedbycomplicatedweavepatterns.Thesefabricsareveryversatileinanydecoratingscheme.

Decoratorpilefabrics ,suchassuede,corduroy,andchenille,haveinterestingsurfacetextures.Theyareusuallyheavierthantheirfashion-fabriccounterparts.

Decoratorfabricsfortheinteriorareoftenmadeofnaturalfibers,whichincludecotton,linen,silk,andwool.Naturalfibersarebreathable,comfortable,andeasytosew.Unfortunately,thesefabricsdon’tperformwellforporches,sunrooms,oroutdoors.Tokeepupwiththestrongtrendtowardoutdoordecorating,manufacturersarealsomakingwater-repellant,fade-resistant,acrylicorpolyesterdecoratorfabricsthatlookandfeellikeinteriorfabrics.Theyarecolorfastandaretreatedtoresiststainsandmildew.

Performancefabricsintendedforuseoutdoorslookandfeellikeinteriordecoratorfabricsandareavailableinsomeofthesameprintsandcolors.

FabricPreparation

Preshrinkanydry-clean-onlyfabricsbysteaming.Movetheironevenlyalongthegrainlines,hoveringjustabovethesurfaceofthefabric.Allowthefabrictodrybeforemovingit.Preshrinkwashablefabricsbywashinganddryinginthesamewayyouintendtocareforthefinisheditem.

CUTTINGDECORATORFABRICS

Afterpreshrinking,straightenthecutendsofthefabric,usingoneofthethreemethodsatright.Thenmarktheothercuttinglines,usingthestraightenededgeasaguide.Beforecuttingfull-widthpiecesoffabricforlargehomedécorprojects,suchastablecloths,curtains,orbedcovers,pinmarktheplacementofeachcutalongtheselvage.Markoutpiecesforsmallerprojects,suchaspillowsornapkins,withchalk.Doublecheckyourmeasurementsandinspectthefabricforflaws.Onceyouhavecutintothefabric,youcannotreturnit.

Toensurethatlargedécoritemswillhangorlaystraight,thefabriclengthsmustbecuton-grain.Thismeansthatthecutsaremadealongtheexactcrosswisegrainofthefabric.Patterneddecoratorfabricsarecutfollowingthepatternrepeatratherthanthegrainlinesomakesurethefabricyoubuyisprintedon-grain.

Fortightlywovenfabricswithoutamatchablepattern,markstraightcutsonthecrosswisegrain,usingacarpenter’ssquare.Alignoneedgetoaselvageandmarkalongtheperpendicularside.

Forlooselywovenfabrics,suchaslinentableclothfabric,pulloutayarnalongthecrosswisegrain,fromselvagetoselvage.Cutalongthelineleftbythemissingyarn.

Fortightlywovenpatterneddecoratorfabric,markbothselvagesattheexactsamepointinthepatternrepeat.Usingalongstraightedge,drawalineconnectingthetwopoints.Ifyouwillbestitchingtwoormorefullwidthsoffabrictogether,makeallthecutsatthesamelocationintherepeat.Thisusuallymeansthatyoucutthepieceslongerthannecessary,stitchthemtogether,andthentrimthemtothenecessarylength.

WORKINGWITHPATTERNEDFABRICS

Patterneddecoratorfabricsaredesignedtomatchattheseam.Cutsaremadeacrossthefabric,fromselvagetoselvage,followingthepatternrepeatratherthanthefabricgrain,soitisveryimportanttopurchasefabricthathasbeenprintedongrain.Fabricsthatareprintedslightlyoffgraincanusuallybecorrectedbystretchingdiagonally,unlesstheyhaveapolishedfinish.

Thepatternrepeatisthelengthwisedistancefromonedistinctivepointinthepattern,suchasthetipofaparticularpetalinafloralpattern,tothesamepointinthenextpatterndesign.Somepatternedfabricshavepatternrepeatmarkings(+)printedontheselvage.Thesemarkingsindicatethebeginningofeachpatternrepeat,andtheyareespeciallyhelpfulforfabricsthatincludeseveralsimilardesigns.

Whensewinglargeitemssuchascurtainsorduvetcovers,extrayardageisusuallyneededtomatchthepattern.Addtheamountsneededforanyhems,rodpockets,headings,ease,andseamallowancestothefinishedlength,todeterminehowlongthelengthsoffabricneedtobe.Thenroundthismeasurementuptothenextnumberdivisiblebythesizeofthepatternrepeattodeterminethecutlength.Forexample,ifthe

patternrepeat is24"(61cm),andtheneededlength is45"(115

cm),theactualcutlength is48"(122cm).Tohavepatternsmatchfromonepaneltothenext,eachpanelmustbecutatexactlythesamepointofthepatternrepeat.

Tocalculatetheamountoffabricneeded,multiplythecutlengthbythenumberoffabricwidthsrequiredfortheproject;addoneadditionalpatternrepeatsoyoucanadjusttheplacementofthepatternonthecutlengths.Thisisthetotalfabriclengthininches(centimeters);dividethismeasurementby36"(100cm)todeterminethenumberofyards(meters)required.

HowtoMatchaPatternedFabric

Placetwofabricwidthsrightsidestogether,aligningtheselvages.Foldbacktheupperselvageuntilthepatternmatches.Adjustthetoplayerslightlyupordownsothatthepatternlinesupexactly.Pressthefoldline.

Unfoldthepressedselvage,andpinthefabricwidthstogether,insertingthepinsinandparalleltothefoldline.

Turnthefabricover,andcheckthematchfromtherightside.Makeanynecessaryadjustments.

Repinthefabricsothepinsareperpendiculartothefoldline.Stitchtheseamfollowingthefoldline;removethepinsasyoucometothem.

Checkthematchfromtherightsideagain.Makeanynecessaryadjustments.Trimawaytheselvages,cuttingtheseamallowancesto½"(1.3cm).

Trimtheentirefabricpaneltothenecessarycutlengthasdeterminedintheprojectinstructions.(Rememberyourinitialcutlengthforthepatternedfabricincludedextralengthtoaccommodatethepatternrepeat.)

SEAMS

Allseamsinhomedécorsewingare½"(1.3cm)unlessotherwisespecified.Tosecurestraightseams,backstitchafewstitchesateachend.Formostprojects,avoidusingtheselvageasaseamallowanceedge.Thoughthistightlywoven,nonravelingedgewouldeliminatetheneedforextrafinishing,itwillmaketheseampuckerandmayshrinkexcessivelywhensteamedorlaundered.Theexceptiontothisruleisstitchinglongseamsinlooselywovenfabricssuchascasementsorlaces.

Longseamstendtopuckerinsomefabrics.Topreventthis,practicetautsewing.Asyousew,pullequallyonthefabricinfrontandbackoftheneedleasifthefabricwereinanembroideryhoop.Donotstretch.Pullthefabrictaut,andletitfeedthroughthemachineonitsown.

Thefollowingseamsarethemostcommonlyusedseamsforhomedecoratorsewing.

SeamsforHomeDécorSewing

Plainseam,pressedopen,issuitableforalmosteveryfabricandapplicationwhenyouplantoenclosetheseamorcoveritwithlining.Iftheseamallowanceswillbeexposedoriftheitemwillbelaunderedoften,finishtheseamallowanceswithazigzagoroverlockwithaserger.

Plainseam,pressedtooneside,ismostcommonlyusedforwindowtreatments.Theseamallowancesarepressedtowardthereturnedgeofthecurtain(awayfromthecenterofthewindow).Finishtheseamallowanceedgestogether,especiallyiftheitemwillnotbelinedorifthefabrictendstoravel.

4-Threador5-threadsafetystitchonasergertrimstheseamallowancestoauniformwidthwhilestitchingaseamandovercastingtheseamallowancestogether.Usethisstitchforcurtainsoranyitemwheretheseamallowancesareexposed.

Narrowzigzagstitchisusedforlongseamsinlooselywovenfabricsorlaces.Thezigzagallowstheseamtorelaxslightlyandpreventspuckers.Ifremovingtheselvageswouldcauseexcessiveraveling,leavetheselvagesonandclipthemuptothestitchinglineevery1"to6"(2.5to15cm)toallowthemtorelax.

Frenchseameliminatesrawedgesbyencasingthem.Itisespeciallysuitableforlightweight,sheer,andlooselywovenfabricswhentheitemwillbelaunderedorexposedtoabrasion.Thisseamisalsousedforfashionsewing(page106),however,forhomedécorsewing,wheretheseamallowancesareonly½"(1.3cm),two¼"(6mm)seamallowancesaresewn.

PillowsPillowscomeinseveralbasicstyles:knife-edge,mockbox,flange,box,andbolster.Fromthesestyles,youcandesigncountlesspillowsinawiderangeoffabrics,usingdecorativetechniquesandembellishmentstosuiteverydécor,mood,andbudget.

Theinstructionsforeachstyledescribedinthissectionareforapillowcoverthatisstitchedclosed.Ifyouthinkyou’llneverneedtoremovethestuffingtocleanthepillowcover,thisisasuitablefinish.Forpillowcoversthatareremovable,seethesectiononclosures(pages240to245).

Pillowcoverscanbemadetofitready-madesquare,rectangular,androundpillowforms.Ifyouwantthepillowtobeplumpandfirm,planthefinishedsizetobeatleast1"(2.5cm)smallerthanthepillowformsize.Ifyoupreferthatyourpillowbesofterandlessplump,planthefinishedsizetobethesameastheform.Forpillowsinnonstandardsizesandshapes,youcanmakeformstofitandfillthemwiththeloosestuffingofyourchoice.Forpillowswithoutremovableinserts,stuffthefillingdirectlyintothepillowcover.

FormsandFillings

Pillowsgettheirshapefromnaturalorsyntheticfillings.Dependingontheshape,size,andpurposeofapillow,youcanfillitwithloosefillingorwithapillowform.Formsaregreatforpillowsthatwillbelaunderedordrycleanedbecausetheyareeasilyinsertedandremovedthroughazipperedorlappedclosure.Ifyouwanttobeabletoremovethefillingforcleaningapillowthatisanonstandardsizeorshape,makeamuslin-coveredforminthesameshapeasthepillowandfillitwiththedesiredmaterial.Loosefillingcanbestuffeddirectlyintothepillowcoverifyouintendtostitchitclosed.

Formsareavailableinknife-edgesquaresfrom10"to30"(25.5to76cm),rectangles,rounds,andbolsters.Themostexpensiveformsarefilledwithdownoramixofdownandfeathers.Down-filledpillowscanbeshapedandslouchedtoconformtothecornerofasofa.Theymoldcomfortablytoyourbodywhenyouleanonthem,buttheyarebroughtbacktobillowyplumpnesswithalittlefluffing.Polyesterfiberfillformsimitatesomefeaturesofdown,buttheyaremoreresilientorspringythandown.Fiberfillformsarelowerincost,washable,andnonallergenic.Differentbrandsoffiberfillformsvaryinqualityandprice—somearemoreplump,guaranteednottoseparateorclump,andhavefabriccoversasopposedtothinnonwovensyntheticcovers.

Manufacturedformsaren’tnecessarilyreadyforuse,especiallyiftheyseemhighthroughthecenterwithfillingthatdoesn’treachthecorners.Youcanopenaseamandadjustthefilling,ifnecessary,fillingoutthecornersandcreatingamoreeventhickness.Ifyouwantmore

plumpness,addsomeloosefiberfillbeforesewingtheformclosed.Touseaknife-edgeformforaboxormockboxpillow,movefillingoutofthecornersandfollowsteps3and4fortheMockBoxPillow,page231,stitchingfromtheoutsideoftheform.

KNIFE-EDGEPILLOWS

Theterm“knife-edge”meansthatthefrontandbackofthepillowarethesamesizeandshapeandarejoinedbyasingleseamaroundtheperimeter.Ifdesired,thatseamcanalsoincorporateadecorativeelement,suchaswelting,fringe,oraruffle.Knife-edgepillowscanbesquare,rectangular,oralmostanyshapeyouwishtocreate,thoughsomeshapesarebettersuitedtothisstylethanothers.Roundknife-edgepillows,forinstance,willpuckerunattractivelyaroundtheedge.

Squareandrectangularknife-edgepillowstendtodevelop“dogears”whentheyarestuffed,becausetheyarethickerinthecenterthanaroundtheedges.Thiseffectcanbepreventedwiththesimpleshapingtechniquedescribedinsteps2to4,opposite.

HowtoMakeaKnife-edgePillow

Determinethedesiredfinishedsizeofyourpillowandadd1"(2.5cm)inbothdirectionsforseamallowances.Cutthepillowfrontandbackalongthefabricgrainlines.

Foldthefrontintofourths.Markapointhalfwaybetweenthecornerandthefoldoneachopenside.Atthecorner,markapoint½"(1.3cm)fromeachedge.

Trimagraduallytaperingsliveroffabricfromthemarkedpointonthefabricedgetothemarkedcornerpoint.Repeatontheadjoiningsidetoshapethecorner.

Unfoldthefrontanduseitasapatternfortrimmingtheback.

Pinthepillowfronttotheback,rightsidestogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam,pivotingatthecorners.Leaveanopeningononelengthwise-grainsideforstuffingthepillow.

Ifyouwillbeinsertingapillowform,leaveanopeningabouttwo-thirdsthelengthoftheside.Forloosestuffing,asmalleropeningwilldo.

Presstheseamsflat.Thenturnbacktheupperseamallowanceandpresswiththetipoftheironinthecreaseoftheseam.Intheareaoftheopening,pressbothseamallowancesback.

Turnthepillowcoverrightsideout.Squareupthecorners,usingapointturnerorsimilarpointedutensilinsertedthroughtheopening.Presslightly.

Compressandinsertthepillowform,makingsuretheformsitssquarelyinsidethecover;addfiberfillinthecorners,ifnecessary.Orstuffthepillowwiththedesiredstuffing.

Pintheopeningclosed,aligningthepressedfolds.Edgestitchbymachine.

Pintheopeningclosed,aligningthepressedfolds.Slipstitchtheopeningclosedbyhand.

TIP

Cutthroughallfourlayersatonce,ifthefabricisfairlylightweight.Forheavierfabrics,trimbothsidesofonecornerandthenuseitasapatterntotrimtheremainingthreecorners.

MOCKBOXPILLOWS

Themockboxpillow,avariationoftheknifeedgestyle,iscube-shapedwithsoft,undefinededges.Unliketheknifeedgepillowthattapersindepthtowardtheouteredges,themockboxpillowischunkierwithaconsistentdepthfromcentertosides.Thedepthiscreatedbystitchingaverticalseamineachcornerofthepillowcover,whichshortensthelengthandwidth.Thelengthofthatseamdeterminesthepillowdepth.Thelargerthepillow,thedeeperitcanbe.Forinstance,alargefloorpillowlookswellproportionedwithadepthof6"(15cm),whereasasmallersofapillowlooksbetteratadepthof2½"to3"(6.5to7.5cm).Theperimeterseamcirclesthepillowhalfwaybetweenthefrontandback.Ifdesired,thisseamcanincorporatewelting.

HowtoMakeaMockBoxPillow

Cutoutthepillowfrontandback,aligningthesidestothefabricgrainlines.Refertothechartbelowforcutsizeguidelines.

Pinthepillowfronttotheback,rightsidestogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam,pivotingatthecorners.Leaveanopeningononelengthwise-grainsideforthestuffing.Presstheseamallowancesopen.

Pullthefrontandbackawayfromeachotheratonecorner,andrefoldthefabricsothatanewcornerisformedwiththeseamsinthecenter.Pinthroughtheseamsfromfronttobacktoensuretheyarealigned.

Measurealongtheseamandmarkapointadistancefromthecornerthatequalshalfthedesiredpillowdepth.Drawalinethroughthepoint,perpendiculartotheseam,fromfoldtofold.Thelengthofthelineequalsthetotaldesiredpillowdepth.Stitchonthemarkedline.Donottrimoffthecornertriangle.

Repeatsteps3and4ateachcorner.Repeatforthecornersofthepillowform,ifdesired.Turnthepillowcoverrightsideout.Inserttheformandclosetheopeningasinsteps7to9onpage229.

Thechartatrightshowsthecutsizesneededforthefinishedsizesofmockboxpillowsthatwillfitstandardpillowforms.Cutsizesinclude½"(1.3cm)seamallowances

TIP

Itishelpfultoinsertasleeverollorfirmcardboardtubeintothepillowcoverforpressingtheseamallowancesopen.

FLANGEPILLOWS

Aflangeisflatfabricthatextendsbeyondthestuffedportionofapillow.Thereareseveralwaystomakeaflange.Asingleflangeisformedfromtwolayersoffabricseamedtogetheraroundtheedge.Foradoubleflangepillow,eachflangeisself-lined.Raw-edgeflangepillowsaremadefromtwolayersofreversiblefabricsthatdonotravel,suchasfleece,felt,fauxsuede,realsuede,orleather.Individualself-linedflangestripscanbesewnintotheseamsofaknife-edgepillowtomakeapillowwithcontrastingflangesthatareinterruptedatthecorners.Theflangewidthcanvarytosuityourpillow’ssizeanddesign.Agoodwidthforsofapillowsis1½"to2½"(3.8to6.5cm);largerpillowscanhavewiderflanges.Unlessthefabricisquitestiff,however,wideflangestendtoflopforward,sothatissomethingtoconsiderifyouwanttodisplaythepillowstandingupright.Theeasiestwaytomakeaflangepillowistostitchtheopeningclosedbymachine.However,ifyouwanttobeabletoremovethepillowform,planforaplainordecorativeoverlapclosure,acenteredzipperclosureontheback,oraninvisiblezipperclosurebetweendoubleflanges.

HowtoMakeaSingleFlangePillow

Determinethefinishedsizeofthestuffedareaofthepillowplustwicethewidthoftheflange.Add1"(2.5cm)tothewidthandlengthfor½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesallaround.Cutoutthepillowfrontandback,aligningsidestothefabricgrainlines.

Followsteps5to7fortheknifeedgepillow(page229).Markthedepthoftheflangefromtheseamedouteredge.Pinthelayerstogetheralongthemarkedlinetokeepthemfromshifting.Stitchonthemarkedline,leavinganopeningofthesamesizeparalleltotheouteropening.

Insertthepillowformorstuffingintotheinnerarea;donotstufftheflange.

Topstitchtheinnerareaclosed,usingazipperfoot.Slipstitchtheflangeclosed,oredgestitcharoundtheentireflange.

HowtoMakeaRaw-edgeFlangePillow

Determinethefinishedsizeofthestuffedareaofthepillowplustwicethewidthoftheflange.Cutoutthepillowfrontandback,aligningsidestothefabricgrainlines,ifnecessary.

Markthedepthoftheflangeonthepillowfront.Pinthefronttotheback,wrongsidestogether,alongthemarkedlinetokeepthemfromshifting.Stitchonthemarkedline,leavinganopeningalongonesideforinsertingthepillowform.

Insertthepillowformorstuffingintotheinnerarea.Topstitchtheinnerareaclosed,usingazipperfoot.

HowtoMakeaPillowwithContrastingFlanges

Followsteps1to4foraknifeedgepillow(page229).Cutfourflangestripsthesamelengthsasthepillowsidesand1"(2.5cm)widerthantwicethedesiredwidthoftheflange.Foldeachstripinhalflengthwise,andstitch½"(1.3cm)seamsacrosstheends.Turnrightsideoutandpress.

Pintheflangestripstotheouteredgesofthepillowfront,½"(1.3cm)fromthecorners,aligningtherawedges.Basteascant½"(1.3cm)fromtheedges.

Followsteps5to9fortheknifeedgepillow(page229)tocomplete.Takecarethatthefinishedendsoftheflangesdonotgetcaughtinthestitching.

BOXPILLOWS

Boxpillowsarecube-shaped,withfrontsandbacksofthesameshapeandsizejoinedtogetherwithastripoffabricknownasaboxingstrip.Usingthistechnique,youcanmakeapillowinanyshape,includingcircles,rectangles,hexagons,triangles,hearts,andstars.Standardpillowformscanbeusedforsquareboxpillows,buttofillthepillowdepthmoreconsistently,makethepillowcoverwithawidthandlength2"(5cm)smallerthanthepillowformsize.Fornonstandardshapesandsizes,makeyourownpillowformorinsertloosestuffingdirectlyintothecover.

HowtoMakeaRectangularBoxPillow

Determinethefinishedwidth,length,anddepthofthepillow.Add1"(2.5cm)tothewidthandlengthfor½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesallaround.Cutoutthepillowfrontandback,aligningsidestothefabricgrainlines.Cuttheboxingstrip,withthelengthequaltothefinisheddistancearoundthepillowplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowancesandthewidthequaltothefinishedpillowdepthplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Iftheboxingstripwillneedtobepieced,allow1"(2.5cm)foreachpiecingseam.

Piecetheboxingstriptogether,ifnecessary,using½"(1.3cm)seamallowances.Stitchtheshortendsofthestrip,rightsidestogether,toformacontinuousloop.Markbothlongedgesoftheboxingstripwiththelengthsofeachsideofthepillow,usinga3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowances.Donotuseajoiningseamasoneofthemarks.

Pintheboxingstriptothepillowfront,rightsidestogether,rawedgeseven,matchingtheclipmarksontheboxingstriptothepillowcorners.

Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.Ateachcorner,stopwiththeneedledowninthefabric,andpivotthefabric.Theclipmarkswillspread,allowingthefabrictoturnthecorner.

Pintheothersideoftheboxingstriptothepillowback,rightsidestogether,matchingtheclipmarkstothecorners.Stitchtheseamasinstep4,leavinganopeningforstuffingthepillow.

Presstheseamsflat.Then,oneachseam,turnbacktheupperseamallowanceandpresswiththetipoftheironinthecreaseoftheseam.Intheareaoftheopening,pressbothseamallowancesback.

Turnthepillowcoverrightsideout.Squareupthecorners,usingapointturnerorsimilarpointedutensilinsertedthroughtheopening.Presslightly.

Compressandinsertthepillowform,makingsuretheformsitssquarelyinsidethecover;addfiberfillinthecorners,ifnecessary.Orstuffthepillowwiththedesiredstuffing.Slipstitchtheopeningclosed.

HowtoMakeaRoundBoxPillow

Makeapatternforthepillowfrontandback,usingastring-and-pencilcompass.Add½"(1.3cm)seamallowanceallaround.Cutoutthepattern;useittocutoutthepillowfrontandback.Multiplythefinisheddiameterby3.14,androundthemeasurementuptothenearestfractionofaninch(millimeter)todeterminethefinishedlengthoftheboxingstrip;add1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Cuttheboxingstripthedesiredfinishedwidthplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.

Stitchtheboxingstripintoacontinuousloop,asinstep2fortherectangularboxpillow.Stitchascant½"(1.3cm)fromeachedgeoftheboxingstrip.Thencliptheseamallowanceevery½"(1.3cm)upto,butnotthrough,thestitchingline.

Pin-markthepillowfront,pillowback,andboxingstripintofourths.Pintheboxingstriptothepillowfront,rightsidestogether,rawedgeseven,matchingthepinmarks.Withtheboxingstripfacingup,stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.

Stitchtheothersideoftheboxingstriptothepillowback,leavinganopeningforturningandstuffing.Finishthepillowasinsteps6to8fortherectangularboxpillow,disregardingthereferencetocorners.

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Theclipsallowtheboxingstriptofanoutandfitthepillowfrontedgeevenly.Keeptherawedgesoftheboxingstripalignedtotheouteredgeofthepillowfront,andstitchjusttotheleftofthefirstrowofstitching,sothatthefirstrowwillbehiddeninsidethepillowcover.

HowtoMakeaBoxPillowwithInsideCorners

Makeapatternforthepillowfrontandback,adding½"(1.3cm)forseamallowancesallaround.Measuretheentireouterseamlineandadd1"(2.5cm)todeterminethecutlengthoftheboxingstrip.Cuttheboxingstriptothedesiredwidthplus1"(2.5cm);piecetogetherasnecessary.

Marktheseamlinesatanyinnercornersofthepillowfrontandback.Usingshortstraightstitches,staystitchontheseamline,about1"(2.5cm)eachsideoftheinnercorners,pivotingatthecorners.Clipupto,butnotthrough,thestitchinglinesatthecorners.

Preparetheboxingstripasinstep2fortheroundboxpillow,left,inareaswheretheboxingstripwillfollowanoutercurve.Pintheboxingstriptothepillowfront,rightsidestogether.Stitchwiththeboxingstripfacingupinareasofstraightlinesoroutercurves.Stopstitchingwithin2"(5cm)ofanyinnercorners,andresumestitching2"(5cm)beyondthecorner.

Completethestitchingattheinnercornerswiththeboxingstripontheunderside.Stitchjusttotheinsideofthestaystitchinglines.

Attachtheothersideoftheboxingstriptothepillowback,leavinganopeningforturningandstuffing.Finishthepillow.

BOLSTERPILLOWS

Bolstersarecylindricalpillowsthatoffersupportfortheneckorlowerback.Withtheirinterestingshape,theyareagreatadditiontothe“pillowscene”andversatileenoughtobeusedonbeds,sofas,chairs,andwindowseats.Initssimplestform,abolsterismerelyarectanglesewnintoacylinderanddrawnclosedateachendwithadrawstringinacasing.Analternativeistomakethecylinderextralongandtietheendswithdecorativecordingsothepillowresemblesawrappedcandy.Inatailoredversion,thebolsterendsarecappedwithcirclesoffabric.Thecylinderitselfcanbepiecedtogetherfromtwoormorefabricsandtheseamscanbeembellishedwithweltingorotherdecoratortrims.

Bolsterformsareavailableinseveralsizes,oryoucanmakeyourown,followingstep1,page238,forasimplebolster.

HowtoMakeaSimpleBolster

Cutarectangleofbattingabout1yd.(1m)long,withthewidthequaltothedesiredfinishedlengthofthebolster.Rollthebattingwiththedesiredfirmness(thelooseryourollit,thesofterthebolsterwillbe)untilitisthedesireddiameter;cutoffanyexcess.Whipstitchthecutendtotheroll.

Cutarectangleoffabricwiththewidthequaltothecircumferenceofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm)andthelengthequaltothelengthofthebolsterformplusthediameterplus1½"(3.8cm)forcasings.

Pressunder¼"(6mm),then½"(1.3cm)oneachshortendofthefabrictoformthecasings.Unfoldtheends.Foldthefabricinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seamonthelengthwiseedge,beginningandendingwithbackstitches¾"(2cm)fromtheends;presstheseamopen.

Refoldthecasings.Edgestitchalongtheinnerfolds;reinforcethestitchesattheopenings.Turnthebolstercoverrightsideout.

Threadnarrowcordingintothecasings.Insertthebolsterform.Drawupthecordingandtiesecurely.Tuckthecordendsinsidetheopening,ifdesired.

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Ifthebolsterformisnotcompletelycoveredattheends,placepiecesofmatchingfabricovertheendsbeforetyingthecords.Thetightnessofthedrawstringwillkeeptheminplace.

HowtoMakeaCandyWrapperBolster

Makeabolsterformasinstep1forasimplebolster,ifnecessary.Cutarectangleoffabricwiththewidthequaltothecircumferenceofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm)andthelengthequaltothelengthofthebolsterformplusthreetimesthediameter.

Pressunder¼"(6mm)oneachshortend;unfold.Foldthefabricinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamonthelengthwiseedge,beginningandendingwithbackstitches¾"(2cm)fromtheends;presstheseamopen.

Refold¼"(6mm)attheopenends.Foldtheendsunderhalfthediameterofthebolster.Edgestitchalongtheinnerfolds;reinforcethestitchesattheopenings.Stitchagain½"(1.3cm)fromthefold,formingacasing.

Threadnarrowcordingintothecasings.Turnthebolstercoverrightsideout.Insertthebolsterform.Drawupthecordingandtiesecurely.Tuckthecordendsinsidetheopening.Tiedecorativecordingaroundthegathersateachend,ifdesired.

HowtoMakeaTailoredBolster

Makeabolsterformasinstep1forasimplebolster,ifnecessary.Cutarectangleoffabricwiththewidthequaltothecircumferenceofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm)andthelengthequaltothelengthofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm).Cuttwocirclesoffabricfortheendswiththediameterequaltothediameterofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm).

Foldtherectangleinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamonthelengthwiseedge,leavinganopeningforturningandinsertingthebolsterform;presstheseamopen.

Stitchascant½"(1.3cm)fromtheouteredgeofeachendofthecylinder.Clipintothefabricevery½"(1.3cm)upto,butnotthrough,thestitchingline.

Pinacircletooneend,rightsidestogether,aligningtherawedges.Thecylinderendswillfanoutattheclips.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seam,keepingtheouteredgeseven.Youshouldbestitchingjustinsidethefirststitchingline.Repeatattheoppositeend.

Turnthebolstercoverrightsideout.Insertthebolsterform.Slipstitchtheopeningclosed.

CLOSUREOPTIONS

Pillowsthatareusedforcomfort,tossedabout,andhandledalotneedclosuresthatwillallowyoutoeasilyremovethestuffingsothecoverscanbelaunderedordrycleanedoccasionally.Theoptionsincludeconventionalzippers,invisiblezippers,andlappedclosures.

Thepillowstyleinfluencestheclosurechoiceaswellastheclosurelocation.Invisiblezippers,forinstance,workwellintheseamsofplainknife-edgepillowsormockboxpillows,especiallywhenthepillowsaredecorativeonbothsides.Ifaknife-edgepillowhasweltingorruffles,though,itcanbemoredifficulttoinsertazipperintheseam.Aconventionalzipperorlappedclosureinthepillowbackwouldbeeasierinsuchcases.Ifaboxpillowneedsazipperedclosure,itisusuallyappliedintoasectionoftheboxingstripsothatthepillowisreversible.Flangepillowsthatrequireremovablecoverscanhavezippered,lapped,hookandlooptape,orbuttonedclosuresinthebackordecorativebuttonedclosuresinthefront.

Sometimestheclosureitselfisthemaindecorativefeatureofthepillow.Itemsborrowedfromthefashionworld—likefancybuttons,toggles,frogs,buckles,andfabricorribbonties—givethesehomedécorpiecesacouturetouch.

Zippers

Conventionalpolyesterzippers(nottheseparatingkind)canbeinsertedinaseambetweenpiecesofthepillowback.Theseamcanbecenteredinthepillowbackorplacedclosetooneedgesothatitislessvisible;theseamallowanceshidethezipperteeth.Invisiblezippers,whichmustbeinstalledwiththeuseofaspecialpresserfoot,areusuallyplacedintheseambetweenthepillowfrontandback,wheretheyalmostdisappear.

Makethezipperclosurelongenoughsothatremovingandinsertingthepillowformwillnotstrainthezipperends.Asageneralrule,useazipperthatisatleastthree-fourthsthepillowwidth.Zipperscanbeshortened,ifnecessary,followingthedirectionsonpage175.

HowtoInsertaConventionalZipper

Cutthepillowback1"(2.5cm)widerthanthefronttoallowfor½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesattheclosure.Foldthepillowbackinhalf,rightsidestogether,ifyouwanttheclosuretobecenteredinthepillowback.Foldoneedgein1¾"(4.5cm),ifyouwanttheclosurenearoneedge.Press.

Markthefoldatthelocationofthezipperstops.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromthefold,fromthepillowedgetothefirstmark;backstitch.Machine-bastetothesecondmark.Shortenthestitchlengthagainandbackstitch;thenstitchtotheoppositeedge.Cutonthefold;presstheseamallowancesopen.

Centertheclosedzipperfacedownovertheseam,withthestopsatthemarks.Glue-basteorpintotheseamallowancesonly.Finishtheseamallowances,catchingthezippertapeinthestitches.

Spreadthepillowbackflat,rightsideup.Markthetopandbottomofthezippercoilwithpins.Centerastripof½"(1.3cm)transparenttapeovertheseamfrompintopin.Topstitchanarrowrectanglealongtheedgesofthetape,usingazipperfoot.Stitchslowlyasyoucrossthezipperteethjustbeyondthestops.Removethetape.Pullthreadstotheundersideandknot.Removethebastingstitches.

Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthepillowstyle.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,simplyopenthezipperbeforestitchingthefinalseam.

HowtoMakeaZipperClosureinaBoxingStrip

Purchaseazipperthatisabout2"(5cm)shorterthanonesideofasquareboxpilloworone-thirdthecircumferenceofaroundpillow.Cutaboxingstripforthezippersection2"(5cm)widerthanthedesiredfinishedwidthoftheboxingstripandequalinlengthtothezippertape.Cutaboxingstripfortheremainingpillowcircumference1"(2.5cm)widerthanthedesiredfinishedwidthandabout6"(15cm)longerthantheremainingcircumference.

Presstheboxing/zipperstripinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Machine-baste½"(1.3cm)fromthefold.Cutonthefold;presstheseamallowancesopen.

Centertheclosedzipperfacedownovertheseam.Glue-basteorpintotheseamallowancesonly.Finishtheseamallowances,catchingthezippertapeinthestitches.

Turnthezipperstripfaceup.Centerastripof½"(1.3cm)transparenttapeovertheentireseam.Topstitchalongtheedgesofthetapefromendtoend,usingazipperfoot(noneedtocrossthezipper).Removethetape.Removethebastingstitches.

Pressunder2"(5cm)ononeshortendoftheboxingstrip.Lapthefoldovertheupperendofthezipperstriptocoverthetab.Stitchthroughallthelayers1½"(3.8cm)fromthefold.

Trimtheboxing/zipperstriptothefinishedpillowcircumferenceplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Pinthecutendtothebottomof

thezipperstrip,rightsidestogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam,stitchingslowlyoverthezipperteeth.Presstheseamallowancesawayfromthezipper.Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsonpage235.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,simplyopenthezipperbeforestitchingthefinalseam.

HowtoInsertanInvisibleZipper

Openthezipper;pressopenthezippertapefromthewrongsidetounrollthecoils.Centerthezipperalongonelongedgeofthepillowback.Marktherightsideofthepillowbackattheendsofthezippercoil;transferthemarkstothepillowfront.Markthe½"(1.3cm)seamlineonthefabric,usingremovablefabricmarkerorchalk.

Positiontheopenzipperonthepillowback,rightsidestogether,withthezippercoilalignedtotheseamlineandendsofcoilalignedtothemarks.Glue-basteorpininplace.Finishtheseamallowance,catchingthezippertapeinthestitches.

Attachtheinvisiblezipperfoottothemachine;positionthetopofthezippercoilundertheappropriategrooveofthefoot.Slidethezipperfootontheadaptertoadjusttheneedlepositionsostitchingwillbeveryclosetothecoil;onheavierfabricssettheneedlepositionslightlyawayfromthecoil.Stitch,startingatthetopofthezipper,untilthezipperfoottouchesthepulltabatthebottom.

Securetheothersideofthezippertothepillowfront,asinstep2.Positionthecoilsunderthezipperfoot;slidethezipperfootontheadaptertotheoppositeside,andadjusttheneedleposition.Thebulkofthefabricwillbeontheoppositesideoftheneedle.Stitchuntilthezipperfoottouchesthetab.

Closethezipper;pinthepillowfrontandbackrightsidestogetheraboveandbelowthezipper.Adjustthezipperfoottogetascloseaspossibletothezipper.Stitchtherestoftheseam.

Openthezipper.Attachthegeneralpurposepresserfoot,andfinishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthepillowstyle.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,simplyopenthezipperbeforestitchingthefinalseam.

LappedClosures

Alappedclosureissimplytwohemmededgesthatoverlap,similartothatonabutton-downshirt.Theedgescanbeheldtogetherwithfasteners,suchashookandlooptape,snaptape,orbuttons.Iftheedgesareoverlappedslightlydeeper,fastenersarenotnecessary.Closuresthatarestrictlyfunctionalcanbeplacedinthecenterofthepillowbackornearoneside.Ontheotherhand,decorativeclosuresshowingofffancybuttonsortogglescanbepositionedonthepillowfront.

HowtoSewaPlainLappedClosure

Cuttwopiecesforthepillowbackwiththelengthequaltothefinishedpillowlengthplus1"(2.5cm)andthewidthequaltohalfthefinishedpillowwidthplus3½"(9cm).Pressa1"(2.5cm)double-foldheminonelongedgeofeachbackpiece.Stitchalongtheinnerfoldofeachpiece.

Overlapthehemmededges2"(5cm),rightsidesup.Theinnerfoldswillalign.Basteacrossthehemends.Followthegeneralpillowdirectionstocompletethepillow.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,turnthepillowrightsideoutthroughtheoverlappedhems.

HowtoSewaHookandLoopTapeLappedClosure

Cuttwopiecesforthepillowbackwiththelengthequaltothefinishedpillowlengthplus1"(2.5cm)andthewidthequaltohalfthefinishedpillowwidthplus3"(7.5cm).Pressa1"(2.5cm)double-foldheminonelongedgeofeachbackpiece.Stitchalongtheinnerfoldofonepiece.

Cutstripsof¾"(2cm)hookandlooptape3"(7.5cm)shorterthanthehemmedside.Centertheloopsideofthetapeontherightsideofthestitchedhem.Stitcharoundtheouteredgesofthetape.

Unfoldthehemedgeoftheotherpillowbackpiece.Centerthehooksideofthetapeontherightsideofthefabric,betweenthetwopressedfolds;stitcharoundtheouteredgesofthetape.Refoldthehem,andstitch.

Overlapthehemsandsealthetape.Basteacrossthehemends.Followthegeneralpillowdirectionstocompletethepillow.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,unsealthetapestoturnthepillowrightsideout.

HowtoSewaButtonedClosure

Followstep1forthehookandloopclosure,butstitchbothhemsinplace.Stitchthedesirednumberofevenlyspacedbuttonholesparalleltoanddownthecenterofthehemofonepillowbackpiece(orfrontpiece,ifclosureisdecorative).Overlapthehemsandmarkthebuttonplacementthroughthecenterofeachbuttonholeontotheunderlappedhem.Sewonthebuttons.

Overlapandbuttonthehems.Basteacrossthehemends.Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthepillowstyle.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,unbuttonthehemstoturnthepillowrightsideout.

HowtoSewaSnapTapeLappedClosure

Followthedirectionsforthehookandlooptapeclosure,left,butextendthesnaptapesidesintotheseamallowancesattheendsoftheopening.Besurethesnapsalignbeforestitching.

DECORATIVEEDGES

Theseamsaroundapillowaretheperfectplacefordecorativeaccents.Whiledefiningthepillow’slines,accentssuchasfabric-coveredweltingandtwistedcordweltingalsolendstabilityandgivethepillowatailored,classiclook.Rufflessoftenthepillowlinesandcreateacasual,romanticappearance.Fringes,ineverystyleimaginable,boostplainpillowsintothedesignercategory.

Welting

Cording,availableinseveralsizes,canbecoveredwithfabrictomakewelting.Chooseacordingdiameterthatwillcomplementthepillow’ssizeandshapeandworkwellwiththepillowfabric.Narrowerweltingismoretailoredandwellsuitedtosmallpillowsmadewithlightweightfabrics.Thickerweltingismorecasualandmoreprominentintheoveralldesignofthepillow.Inordertoroundcornersandfitcurvessmoothly,fabricstripsformakingweltingarecutonthebias.

Twistedcordweltingisanornatealternativetofabric-coveredwelting,andisavailableinawiderangeofstyles,colors,andsizes.Awelttape,orlip,isattachedtoadecorativecordforsewingintoaseam.Fromtherightsideofthewelting,theinneredgeofthelipisnotvisible.Foreasierstitchingandaneatappearanceonthepillowfront,theweltingisappliedtothepillowbackfirst,rightsideup.Theendsoftheweltingcanbetwistedtogethertojointheminconspicuously.

Decorativetrims,includingtwistedwelting,tendtounraveleasily.Beforecuttingthesetrimsinthefabricstore,theclerkshouldwrapthetrimwithtapeandcutthroughthecenterofthetapedarea.Likewise,whenyoubeginaproject,wrapthetrimwithtapebeforecuttingtoaworkablelength.Beforemakingfinalcuts,saturatethetrimwithliquidfraypreventerorfabricglueandallowittodrycompletely,thencutthroughthecenterofthesealedarea.

HowtoMakeFabric-coveredWelting

Foldthefabricdiagonally,aligningthecutendtotheselvage.Cutbiasstripsparalleltothefold1"(2.5cm)widerthanthecordingcircumference.Piecestripstogethertoalengthafewinches(centimeters)longerthanthedistancetobewelted.

Foldthefabricstriparoundthecording,rightsideout,aligningtherawedges.Usingacordingfootorzipperfoot,machine-basteclosetothecording.Keepthecordingstraightandsmoothasyousew.

Stitchtheweltingtotherightsideofthepillow,aligningtherawedgesandstarting2"(5cm)fromtheendofthewelting.Clipandeasetheweltingatcorners;easetheweltingaroundcurves.

Stopstitching2"(5cm)fromthepointwheretheendswillmeet.Cutoffoneendoftheweltingsoitoverlapstheotherby1"(2.5cm).

Removethestitchingfromoneendofthewelting,andtrimtheendsofthecordingsotheyjustmeet.

Foldunder½"(1.3cm)offabricontheoverlappingendofthewelting.Lapitaroundtheotherend;finishstitchingtheweltingtothepillowedge.

Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirections.Onseamsthatcarrywelting,useacordingfootorzipper.Withthewrongsideoftheweltedpiecefacingup,stitchinsidethepreviousstitchingline,crowdingthestitchesagainstthewelting.

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Whenyouattachtwistedweltingtoasquareorrectangularpillow,besuretotaperthepillowcornersasinsteps2and3onpage231.

HowtoAttachTwistedCordWelting

Pinthetwistedweltingtothepillowback,rightsidesup,withthebeginningandendalongoneside(notatacorner).Markeachcornerwithapin.Removethetrim.

Hand-tacktheliptothecord¼"(6mm)fromeachsideofeachpin.Cutaway½"(1.3cm)oflipateachcornermark.Thiswillmakeiteasiertoattachtheweltingasitroundsthecorners.

Stitchthetwistedweltingtothepillowback,rightsidesup,usingazipperfoot;aligntheedgeoftheweltliptotherawedgeofthefabric.Roundthecordatthecornersandstitchonlyonthefabric.Leave1½"(3.8cm)unstitchedbetweenends;leave3"(7.5cm)tails.

Loosenthecordfromthelipintheareaofthejoin.Trimthelipendssotheyoverlap1"(2.5cm).Separatethecordplies;wraptheendofeachplywithtape.Arrangethepliessothoseontherightturnupandthoseontheleftturndown.

Insertthepliesontherightunderthecrossedlipends,twistingandpullingthemdownuntiltheweltingisreturnedtoitsoriginalshape.Secureinplaceusingtape.

Twistandpullthepliesontheleftovertherightpliesuntilthetwistedendslooklikecontinuoustwistedweltingfrombothsides.Tapeinplace.

Positionthezipperfootontheleftoftheneedle,ifpossible.Placethepillowbacktotherightoftheneedle;thiswillallowyoutostitchin

thedirectionofthecordtwists.Machine-bastethroughalllayerstosecurethewelting.Ifyouareunabletoadjustyourmachinetostitchinthisposition,removethepresserfootandstitchmanuallyoverthethickcords.Besurethepresserfootleverisdownsothethreadtensionisengaged.

Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthestyle.Onseamsthatcarrytwistedwelting,useazipperfoot.Withthewrongsideoftheweltedpiecefacingup,stitchinsidethepreviousstitchingline,crowdingthestitchesagainstthewelting.

Ruffles

Becausetheywillbevisiblefrombothsides,self-linedrufflesarebestforpillows.Tapersquarepillowcorners,asinsteps2and3onpage229,beforeattachingruffles.Thenroundthecornersratherthanpivotsharply.Thefinishedpillowwillappearsquareandtheruffleswillliemoresmoothlyaroundthecorners.

HowtoMakeRuffles

Cutstripsoffabricfortherufflesonthelengthwiseorcrosswisegrainofthefabrictwicethedesiredfinishedwidthplus1"(2.5cm).Pieceenoughstripstogethertoreachalengthtwotothreetimesthepillowcircumference;piecethestripstogetherindiagonalseamstoreducebulk.

Stitchtheendsoftherufflestriptogetherinadiagonalseam,formingacircle.Foldthestripinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Pressthefold,ifdesired,orleaveitunpressedforsofterruffles.Preparetherawedgesforgatheringbyzigzaggingoveracord,suchascrochetcottonordentalfloss,withinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowance.

Foldtheruffleintofourths.Makea3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowancesateachfold.Arrangetheruffleontherightsideofthepillowfront,withthezigzaggedcordontopandrawedgeseven.Forasquarepillow,matchtheclipstothecornersofthepillowfront;forarectangularpillow,matchtheclipstothecentersofthesides;foraroundpillow,matchtheclipstoquarter-marksalongtheouteredge.Pinatthemarks.

Pullupthegatheringcorduntiltherufflefitstheareasbetweenthemarks.Distributethefullnessevenly,allowingextrafullnessatthecornerssotherufflecanfanout.Pintheruffleinplace.Securethegatheringcordbywrappingtheendsaroundpins.

Machine-bastetheruffletothepillowfront,stitchingjustinsidethegatheringrow.

Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthestyle.Onseamsthathaveruffles,withthewrongsideoftheruffledpiecefacingup,stitchjustinsidethepreviousstitchingline.

Fringe

TypesofFringe

Brushfringe isadenserowofyarns,allcuttothesamelength.Whenyouseeitinthestore,thecutedgeisusuallysecuredwithachainstitch,whichshouldbeleftintactuntilyouhavefinishedthepillow.Thestitchesaretheneasilyremovedandthebrushfringecanbefluffedoutbysteamingandgentlyrubbing.

Cutfringehasadecorativeheadingandissimilartobrushfringe,butisusuallynotasdense.Thecutyarnsofthisfringeareoftenmulticoloredinablendoffibers.

Loopfringe ismadewitheitheradecorativeorplainheadingandisavailableinavarietyoffibers.Justasthenameimplies,thefringeiscomposedofaseriesofoverlappingloopedyarns,cords,orribbons.Theloopsmaybeallthesamelengthorarrangedinapatternofvaryinglengths.

Tasselfringe isacontinuousrowofminiaturetasselsattachedtoadecorativeheading.Thetasselsareoftenseparatedbyloopsandmaybemulticoloredandmultifibered.

Ballfringe isacontinuousrowofpompomshangingfromaplainheading.Thoughrecognizedasacasualcraftfringe,somestylesofballfringearemoreornateandsuitableforembellishingpillows.

Bullionfringe isacontinuousrowoftwistedcordsattachedtoaplainordecorativeheading.Stylesrangefromveryheavy,longfringetolightweight,shortfringewithsingle-colorormulticolorcords.

Beadedfringes areverychic.Theyareavailableinmanystyles;someresemblecut,loop,orballfiberfringesbutaremadewithhundredsofbeadsinallsortsofshapes,sizes,andcolors.Beadfringeswithdecorativeheadingsorribbonscanbesewntotheoutersurfaceofapillow;thosewithaplainheadingarecaughtinouterseamswherethebeadscandangleandswish.

Featherfringe isatrendyembellishmentforpillowsthataremeanttobemoredecorativethanuseful.Thefeathersareusuallysecuredtoaplaintapethatcanbeconcealedinsideaseamorcoveredwithanothertrim.

HowtoAttachFringes

Fringewithoutdecorativeheading Taperthecornersonsquare-cornerpillows.Machine-bastethefringetotherightsideofthepillowfront,placingtheheadingwithinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowanceandthefringefacinginward.Attheends,cutthefringebetweentheloopsandhand-stitchthecutendstopreventraveling;butttheendstogether.Finishthepillowfollowingthegeneraldirectionsforthestyle.

Fringewithdecorativeheading Beforestuffingthepillow,pinthefringearoundthefrontouteredgeofthefinishedpillowcover,aligningtheinneredgeoftheheadingtotheouteredgeofthepillow.Mitertheheadingatcorners.Iftheheadingisthickortextured,usepaper-backed,two-sidedfabricadhesive.Secureathin,flatheadingusingfabricglueorpaper-backedfusibleadhesivestrips.

SlipcoversSlipcoverscangiveyourfurnitureafreshstartwhenyouwanttochangethecolorschemeofaroom,updatefadedorwornupholstery,orsimplyalterthemoodwiththechangingoftheseasons.Whetheryouaremakingsimplediningchaircoversorafittedcoverforafutonmattress,therearesomebasictechniquesyou’lluseoverandover.Followtheseguidelinesforsuccessfulresults.

LayingOutandCuttingtheFabric

Wheneverpossible,layoutallthepatternpiecesonthefabricbeforeyoustarttocut.Thisallowsyoutorearrangethepiecesasnecessarytomakethebestuseofthefabric.

Whenapatternedfabricwithanall-overdesignisusedforslipcovers,littlematchingisrequired.Whenseamingwidthsoffabrictogether,thepatternshouldbematched.Ifapatternedfabricwithaone-waydesignisused,becarefultolaythepiecesinthecorrectdirectionofthefabric.

Centerlargemotifsinaprintfabriconthetopandbottomofthecushion.Itisusuallyimpossibletomatchafabricpatternacrossalltheseamsinaslipcover.Matchthepatternintheareasthataremostvisible,suchastheseambetweentheseatandchairbackandtheseambetweentheseatfrontandtheskirtfront.

REVERSIBLESEATCOVER

Simpleseatcoversgiveyourdiningroomorkitchenchairsafreshlook.Thesecoversaremadewithtwocoordinatingdecoratorfabrics,sotheycanbeflippedoverforaninstantdécorchange.Dartssewnatthefrontcornersshapethecoverstofitthechairseatssmoothly.Thebackcornersareheldinplacewithabuttontabthatwrapsaroundthebackoftheleg.

Thesecoverswrapoverallfouredgesoftheseat,sotheyaresuitableforarmlesschairswithstraightsidesandfrontsthatareopenbetweenthebackposts.Becausetheamountoffabricneededdependsonyourchairsizeandthefabricdesignsize,makethepatternfirstsoyou’llknowhowmuchfabrictobuy.

Whenmakingcoversfortwoormorechairs,you’llwanttocenterthesamemotifoneachseatcover.Ifyouchoosefabricwithlargemotifs,suchasthetoileshownhere,takethepatternwithyouwhenyoushopforfabric.

YOUWILLNEED

muslinformakingpatterns

twocoordinatingdecoratorfabrics,suchasaprintandastripe;amountdependsonchairsizeandfabricdesignsize fourbuttonsforeachcover,7/8"to1"(2to2.5cm)indiameter ½yd.(0.5m)grosgrainribbon,7/8"(2cm)wide,inacolortomatchthefabrics

SeatCovers

Measurethechairseatsidetosideandfronttoback.Add10"(25.5cm)ineachdirection.Cutmuslintothissizetomakeapattern.Pressthemuslinpatterninhalfinbothdirections.Unfold.Centerthepatternonthechairseat,allowingittofalldownoverthefrontandsides.Attheback,turnthepatternupalongtheposts.Ifnecessary,tapethepatterninplace.

Markadotatonefrontcorner.Pinchthefabrictogetherfromthedotdown,bringingthefronttomeettheside.Pinoutexcessfabric,insertingthepinsparalleltothechairleg,formingadart.Marklinesonbothsidesofthedartfromthedotdowntothebottom.Repeatontheotherfrontcorner.

Markdotsatthebackoftheseat,attheinsidefrontcornersofthebackposts.(Ifyourpostsareround,markeachdotatapointinlinewiththefrontandsideofthepost.)Tracetheoutlineofthechairseatonthepattern.

Removethepatternfromthechair;removethepins.Drawlines4½"(11.5cm)outsidethetracedseatlines.Atthebackcorners,drawlinesfromthedotstotheouterlines,formingsquares.(Thesewillbethestitchinglines.)Markpivotpoints(showninblue)onthestitchinglines½"(1.3cm)fromtheouteredge.Drawcuttinglines½"(1.3cm)outsidethestitchinglinesatthelegsandthefrontdarts.Foldthepatterninhalftomakesureitissymmetrical,andmakeanynecessarycorrections.Cutoutthepatternontheouter

lines.

Placethepatternonthetopfabric,aligningthefront-to-backcreasewiththelengthwisegrainandtheside-to-sidecreasewiththecrosswisegrain.Positionthepatternsothattheintersectionofthecreasesisattheexactcenterofthedesignmotif,ifusingalargeprint.Cutouttheseatcovertop.Transferthepivotpointsanddartdotstothewrongsideofthefabric.

Cutouttheremainingseatcovertops,usingthefirstpieceasaguide.Thiswillmakeiteasiertocenterthedesignmotifs.Placeeachofthetopsonthebottomfabric,rightsidestogether.Pinneartheouteredges.Cutthemout;removethepins.

Foldthedartononefrontcorner,rightsidestogether,aligningtherawedges;pin.Stitchthedart.

Repeatstep7fortheremainingfrontcornersonthetopandbottompieces.Presstheseamallowancesofthedartsopen.

Placethetopandbottomseatcoversrightsidestogether,aligningtherawedges;pin.Aligntheseamsofthefrontdarts.Stitchthelayerstogether½"(1.3cm)fromtheedgeallaround,pivotingatthecorners.Leavea6"(15cm)openingalongonestraightedgeforturning.

Trimtheseamallowancesdiagonallyattheoutercorners.Clipto,butnotthrough,thestitchesattheinnercorners.

Turnbackthetopseamallowancesandpress,applyinglight

pressurewiththetipoftheirondownthecreaseoftheseam.Intheareaoftheopening,turnbackandpresstheseamallowances½"(1.3cm)wheretheymeet.

Turnthecoverrightsideoutthroughtheopening.Insertapointturnerorsimilartoolintotheopeningandgentlypushthepivotpointsouttoformperfectcorners.Pushtheseamoutsothatitiscenteredallaroundtheouteredge;press.Alignthefoldededgesoftheopeningandpinthemclosed.

Edgestitcharoundtheseatcover,stitchingtheopeningclosed;pivotatthecorners.

Markplacementlinesforthefourbuttonholesparalleltoand1"(2.5cm)abovethelowersideandbackedges.Marklinesthatequalthediameterplusthethicknessofthebuttons,withoneend1"(2.5cm)fromtheverticaledges.Attachabuttonholepresserfootorbuttonholeattachment.Stitchthebuttonholesoverthemarkedlines.Cutthebuttonholesopen,usingabuttonholecutterorsmall,sharpscissors.

Placethecoveronthechairseat.Atthebackofonechairleg,measurethedistancebetweenbuttonholes.Cutribbon4"(10cm)longerthanthismeasurement.Turnunder1"(2.5cm)twiceoneachendoftheribbon;press.Stitchacrosstheinnerfolds,formingdouble-foldhems.Stitchabuttontothecenterofeachhem.Repeatfortheotherleg.Buttonthechairseatcoverinplace.

CUSHIONS

Youcanmakeslipcoversforcushionsonbenchesorwindowseats,aswellasforthoseonsofasorchairs.Mostcushionsfallintooneofthethreestylesshownatleft:knife-edge(top),waterfall(middle),andboxed(bottom).AnyofthesestylescanbefittedflushtothefrontofthechairorT-shaped,wrappingaroundthefrontofthechairarms.

Tomakeiteasiertoinsertthecushion,installazipperacrossthebackoftheslipcover,extendingabout4"(10cm)ontoeachside.Forcushionsthatareexposedonthreesides,installazipperacrossthebackoftheslipcoveronly.Useupholsteryzippers,whichareavailableinlongerlengthsthandressmakerzippers.Forboxedandwaterfallcushions,thetabofthezipperwillbeconcealedinapocketattheendofthezipperopening.Thisisanupholsterer’stechniquethatgivesaprofessionalfinish.

Boxedandknife-edgecushionscanbesewnwithorwithoutweltingattheseams.Seepage248forinstructionsonmakingandattachingwelting.Knife-edgecushionsonchairsorsofasusuallyhaveaweltedseamaroundthecenteronsideswherethecushionisexposed.Iftherearehiddensides,suchasforaknife-edgeseatcushiononawingchair,thehiddensidesareoftenconstructedwithaboxingstrip.Waterfallcushions,morecommonincontemporaryfurniture,aresewnwithonecontinuouspieceoffabricwrappingoverthefront,fromtoptobottom.Thisstylehasaboxingstriparoundthesidesandbackandisusuallymadewithoutwelting.

Slipcoversforcushionscanoftenbeputonrightovertheexistingupholstery.Sometimes,however,itisbettertoremovetheoldcoverandinsertthecushionintothenewslipcover.Thisisabetteroptioniftheslipcoverfabricislighterweightthantheupholsteryorifthereisexistingweltingthatwillshowthroughorcausewearonthenewslipcover.

Forthebestfit,pin-fitmuslintotheexistingcushiontomakeapatternforthenewcushioncover.

CuttingDirections

Knife-edgeCushion

Ifthecushionisrectangular,fairlyflat,andsoft,likeapillow,cutacushioncovertoptothesamedimensionsastheoriginalcushionplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Cutthecushioncoverbottom1"(2.5cm)longerthanthetoptoallowfor½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesatthezipperclosure.

Tocoverarectangularcushionthathasathick,firm,foaminsert,cutatopandbottomwiththewidthandlengthequaltothecushionwidthandlengthplusthefoamdepthplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.

Ifcontinuouszippertapeisused,cutthezippertapewiththelengthequaltoatleastthree-fourthsofthecushionwidth,orpurchaseaconventionalzipperwiththisapproximatelength.

Cutfabricstripsfortheweltinglongenoughtofittheweltedsectionofthecushion.

WaterfallCushion

Pin-fitamuslinpatternforthecontinuoustop/bottompiece.Cutacushiontopandbottompiece,usingthepattern.Marktheendofthepiecethatwillbecomethecushiontop(withadirectionalprintornappedfabric,thefabricwillruninthecorrectdirectiononlyonthetop).

Cutthesideboxingstrips.Measuretheoriginalboxingstripbetweentheseamsandadd1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Cuteachboxingstripwiththelengthequaltothesidemeasurementofthecushionplus1"(2.5cm).Excesslengthwillbecutoffduringconstruction.

Ifcontinuouszippertapeisused,cutthezippertapewiththelengthequaltothebackcushionmeasurementplus8"(20.5cm),orpurchaseanupholsteryzipperwiththisapproximatelength.Cuttwofabricstripsforthezipperclosure,withthelengthequaltothelengthofthezippertapeandthewidthequaltohalfthecutwidthoftheboxingstripplus¾"(2cm).

BoxedCushion

Cutthetopandbottompieces1"(2.5cm)largerthanthecushionsizetoallowforseamallowances.ForboxedT-cushions,pin-fitamuslinpatterntoensureaccuratecutting.

Measuretheoriginalboxingstripbetweenseamsandadd1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Cuttheboxingstripwiththelengthequaltothetotalmeasurementofthefrontandsidesofthecushion.Excesslengthwillbecutoffduringconstruction.Ifpiecingisnecessary,allow1"(2.5cm)foreachseam,planningtheplacementoftheseamsoutofviewalongthesidesofthecushion.

YOUWILLNEED

muslinformakingpatterns

decoratorfabric

zipper,about8"(20.5cm)longerthanbackedgeofcushion

fabricandcordingforfabric-coveredwelting;orbrushfringefortwistedwelting

Ifcontinuouszippertapeisused,cutthezippertape8"(20.5cm)longerthanthebackcushionmeasurement,orpurchaseanupholsteryzipperwiththisapproximatelength.Cuttwofabricstripsforthezipperclosurewiththelengthequaltothelengthofthezippertapeandthewidthequaltohalfthecutwidthoftheboxingstripplus¾"(2cm).

Ifthecushionwillbewelted,cutfabricstripsforthewelting(page248)withthelengthequaltotwicethecircumferenceofthecushionplusadditionallengthforseamingstrips,joiningends,andinconspicuouslypositioningseams.

SewingaKnife-edgeCushionCover

Foldintheloweredgeofthecushionback1¾"(4.5cm),rightsidestogether;press.Placethezipperalongsidethefoldandmarkthefoldatthelocationofthezipperstops.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromthefold,fromthesidetothefirstmark;backstitch.Machine-bastetothesecondmark;backstitch,thenfinishtheseamtotheoppositeedge.

Cutonthefold.Presstheseamallowancesopen.

Centertheclosedzipperfacedownovertheseam,withthestopsatthemarks.Glue-basteorpinthezippertapetotheseamallowancesonly.Finishtheseamallowances,catchingthezippertapeinthestitches.

Spreadthecushioncoverbackflat,rightsideup.Markthetopandbottomofthezippercoilwithpins.Centerastripof½"(1.3cm)transparenttapeovertheseamfrompintopin.Topstitchanarrowrectanglealongtheedgesofthetape,usingazipperfoot.Stitchslowlyasyoucrossthezipperjustbeyondthestops.Removethetape.Pullthreadstotheundersideandknot.Removethebastingstitches.

Makeweltingasonpage248.Sewtheweltingaroundtheouteredgeofthecushioncovertop,followingthecontinuouscirclemethod.

Openthezipperpartially.Pinthecovertopandbottomrightsidestogether.Withthewrongsideofthetopfacingup,stitchjustinsidethefirstweltingstitches,crowdingthecording.

Turnthecoverrightsideoutthroughthezipperopening.

SewingaWaterfallCushionCover

Followsteps2and3fortheboxcushiononpage260.Foldthezipperstripstraightacrossatthecorner;marktheoppositeedgewitha3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowance.Repeatattheothercorner.Pinthezipperstriptothebackedgeofthecushionbottom,matchingtheclipmarkstothecorners.Stitch,beginningandendingabout1½"(3.8cm)beyondthecorners.

Markthecenterofthefrontshortendofeachsideoftheboxingstrip;roundthefrontcornersofthesideboxingstripsslightly.Marktheouteredgesofthetop/bottomcushionatthecenterfront.Staystitchascant½"(1.3cm)fromtheouteredgesofthetop/bottompieceadistanceoneithersideofthemarksequaltothecushionheight.

Cliptheseamallowancestothestaystitchingevery½"(1.3cm).Pinthesideboxingstriptothetop/bottom,rightsidestogether,aligningthecentermarks.Checktoseethatcorrespondingpointsonthetop/bottommatchupdirectlyacrossfromeachotherontheboxingstrip.Sew½"(1.3cm)seam,beginningandending6"(15cm)fromthebackcorners.Repeatontheoppositeside.

Followsteps7to10onpage261.Openthezipperpartially.Finishsewingtheboxingstriptothetop/bottomonbothsides.Turnthecushioncoverrightsideoutthroughthezipperopening.

SewingaRectangularBoxedCushionCover

Makeweltingasonpage248.Sewtheweltingaroundtheouteredgeofthecushiontopandcushionbottom,followingthecontinuouscirclemethod.

Pressunder¾"(2cm)seamallowanceononelongedgeofthezipperstrip.Positionthefoldededgeofthestripalongthecenterofthezipperteeth,rightsideup.Usingazipperfoot,topstitch3/8"(1cm)fromthefold.Repeatfortheoppositeside,makingsurefoldsmeetatthecenterofthezipper.Ifusingcontinuouszippertape,attachthezipperpulltothetape.

Centerthezipperstripoverthebackedgeofthecushiontop,rightsidestogether.Stitchthezipperstriptothecushiontop,beginningandendingonthesidesabout1½"(3.8cm)beyondthecorners.Clipintothezipperstripseamallowanceateachcornertoallowthefabrictospread,andpivot.

Alignthecenteroftheboxingstriptothefrontcenterofthecushiontop,matchingtheprint,ifnecessary;pin-markthepiecesseparately.Smooththeboxingstriptotherightfrontcorner;markwitha3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowance.Smooththeboxingstripalongtherightsideofthecushiontop;pintheboxingstriptothecushiontopabout6"(15cm)fromthebackcorner.

Stitchtheboxingstriptothecushiontop,beginningatthesidepinandsewing½"(1.3cm)seam.Foraweltedcover,useaweltingfootorzipperfoot.Matchtheclipmarktothefrontcorner;pivotthestitchingatthecorner.

Continuestitchingtheboxingstriptothecushiontop,matchingthecentermarks.Cliponceintotheboxingstripseamallowanceattheleftfrontcorner;pivot.Stopstitchingabout6"(15cm)fromthebackleftcorner.

Cuttheboxingstrip4"(10cm)beyondthepointwhereitoverlapsthezipperpullendofthezipperstrip.Pintheendoftheboxingstriptotheendofthezipperstrip,rightsidestogether,matchingallcutedges.

Stitchtogether2"(5cm)fromtheend;pivotatthezippertape.Stitchalongtheouteredgeofthezippertapetowithin½"(1.3cm)oftheend;pivot.Placeasmallscrapoffabricoverthezipperteeth.Stitchslowlyacrosstheteethtotheoppositesideofthezippertape;pivot.Stitchalongtheoppositesideofthezippertapeuntil2"(5cm)fromtheend;pivot,andstitchtotheedge.

Fingerpresstheseamallowancetowardtheboxingstrip.Finishsewingthezipperstripandboxingstriptothecushiontop.Asmallpocketformstohidethezipperpullwhenthecoverisclosed.

Cuttheoppositeendoftheboxingstrip1"(2.5cm)beyondthepointwhereitoverlapstheendofthezipperstrip.Pintheendstogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromtheends,placingascrapoffabricoverthezipperteethandstitchingslowly.Turntheseamallowancetowardtheboxingstrip.Finishsewingthezipperstripandboxingstriptothecushiontop.

Foldtheboxingstripstraightacrossatthecorner;marktheoppositesideoftheboxingstripwitha3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowance.Repeatforallthecorners.

Openthezipperpartially.Pintheboxingstriptothecushionbottom,matchingtheclipmarkstothecorners.Stitch.Turnthecoverrightsideoutthroughthezipperopening.

SewingaBoxedT-cushionCover

Cutmuslinabout4"(10cm)largerthanthetopofthecushion;markthegrainlineatthecenterofthefabric.Placethemuslinoverthecushion;pinalongtheseamline,smoothingoutthefabric.Marktheseamlinealongthepinmarks.

Removethemuslin.Truetheseamlines,usingastraightedge.Foldthemuslininhalftocheckthatthepieceissymmetrical;makeanynecessaryadjustments.Add½"(1.3cm)seamallowancestothepattern.Cutthepiecesasinthecuttingdirections(page257).

Pressundera½"(1.3cm)seamallowanceononelongedgeofeachzipperstrip.Positionthefoldededgesofthestripsalongthecenterofthezipperteeth,rightsidesup.Usingazipperfoot,topstitch3/8"(1cm)fromfolds.

Pressunder2"(5cm)ononeshortendoftheboxingstrip.Laptheboxingstripoverthezipperstriptocoverthezippertab.Stitchthroughalllayers1½"(3.8cm)fromthefoldededgeoftheboxingstrip.

Makeandapplyweltingasonpage248.Stitchweltingtotherightsideoftopandbottompieces.

Placetheboxingstripontheslipcovertop,rightsidestogether;centerthezipperonthebackedge.Startstitching2"(5cm)fromthezipperend,crowdingthecording.Clipthecornersasyoucometothem;stopstitching4"(10cm)fromthestartingpoint.

Cliptomarktheseamallowancesattheendsoftheboxingstrip.Stitchtheboxingstripendstogether.Trimoffexcessfabric;fingerpresstheseamopen.Finishstitchingtheboxingstriptotheslipcovertop.

Foldtheboxingstrip,andcliptheseamallowancetomarkthelowercorners;besureallcornersarealignedwiththecornersontheslipcovertop.Openthezipper.

Placetheboxingstripandslipcoverbottomrightsidestogether.Matchtheclipsoftheboxingstriptothecornersoftheslipcoverbottom;stitch.Turnthecoverrightsideout.

Foldthecushiontoinsertitintothecover.Stretchthecoverfromfronttoback.Closethezipper.Smooththecoverfromcentertoedges.Stretchtheweltingtautfromcornertocornertosquarethecushion.

Alternativezipperplacement.

Installthezipperacrossthebackoftheslipcover,withoutextendingitaroundthesides,iftheslipcoverwillbeexposedonthreesides.

FUTONCOVER

Afutonisaffordableandmultifunctional.Itcaneasilybeconvertedfromachairorsofatoabedbychangingthepositionofthefutonframefromanuprighttoarecliningposition.Thefutonmattressoftencomeswithafabriccoverthatisnotonlydecorative,butalsoprotectsthemattressfrombecomingstainedorworn.Youcansewyourownfutonmattresscoverthatcoordinateswiththedecoratingschemeoftheroom.

Makethecoversothelengthwisegrainrunsfromtheseattotheback,ratherthanfromarmtoarm.Runtheseamsfromtheseattotheback.Foreaseininsertingorremovingthemattress,thecoverisconstructedwithazipperedclosurethatextendsalongthreesides.Custom-sizedzippersareavailablefromupholsteryshopsandmanyfabricstores.Oryoucanusecontinuouszipperstrip,cutittotherightlength,andaddthezippertab.

Workingwithlargepiecesoffabriccanbeawkward.Setupatablenexttoyoursewingcabinetortable,onyourleftside.Byholdingexcessfabricatthesameheightasthesewingmachine,itwillbeeasiertofeedthefabrictothemachineandcontroltheextraweight.

CuttingDirections

Cutthefrontandbackpiecesforthefutoncover,withthelengthandwidthofthepieces1"(2.5cm)longerandwiderthanthefinishedwidthofthefutoncover.Topiecedecoratorfabric,runafullwidthoffabricupthecenterandaddequal,partialwidthsatthesidesofboththefrontandback.

Cutonepiecefortheboxingstripthatis1"(2.5cm)longerthanthelengthofthefutoncoverand1"(2.5cm)widerthanthethicknessofthemattress.Cutonezippertab,4"(10cm)long,withthecutwidthofthetabequaltothecutwidthoftheboxingstrip.

Forthezipperedboxingononelongsideofthecover,cuttwozipperstrips,withthelengthofthestrips1"(2.5cm)longerthanthefinishedlengthofthemattress;thecutwidthofthezipperstripsis1¼"(3.2cm)widerthanone-halfthefinishedwidthoftheboxingstrip.Forthezipperedboxingontheshortsidesofthecover,cutfourzipperstrips,each1"(2.5cm)longerthanthefinishedwidthofthemattressand1¼"(3.2cm)widerthanone-halfthefinishedwidthoftheboxingstrip.

YOUWILLNEED

decoratorfabric

zipper,withthelengthofthezippertapeequaltocombinedlengthofthetwoendsandonesideofthemattressplus1"(2.5cm)

SewingtheFutonCover

Stitchoneshortzipperstriptoeachendofonelongzipperstripin½"(1.3cm)seams,rightsidestogether;startstitchingattherawedgeandstop½"(1.3cm)fromtheoppositerawedge.Finishseams,usingoverlockorzigzagstitch;pressopen.Repeat,usingremainingshortandlongzipperstrips.

Placethezipperstripsrightsidestogether,matchingtherawedgesandseams.Machine-baste¾"(2cm)fromthelongedgewherestitchingoftheendseamsextendstotherawedge.Finishseams;pressopen.

Foldthestripinhalf,rightsidestogether,withoneseamallowanceextending.Placetheclosedzipperfacedownoverseamallowances,withtheteethcenteredontheseamlineandtheendsofthezippertapeevenwiththeendsofthestrip.Machine-bastethezippertapetotheextendedseamallowance.

Unfoldthestrip.Onrightside,centerastripof¾"(2cm)transparenttapeoverseamline.Stitchonbothsidesofthetape,securingthezipper.Removethetapeandbastingstitches.

Pressthezippertabinhalf,withwrongsidestogether.Openthezipperabout2"(5cm).Atthetopendofthezipper,placethetaboverthezipperstrip,rightsidesup;stitchacrosstheend,ascant½"(1.3cm)fromtherawedges,stitchingcarefullyoverthezipperteeth.

Stitchendsoftheboxingstriptoendsofthezipperstrip,rightsidestogether,stitching½"(1.3cm)seams;startandstop½"(1.3cm)from

therawedges.Finishseams;pressopen.

Pintheboxingstriptothefutoncoverfront,rightsidestogether,matchingseamstocorners.Withtheboxingstripfaceup,stitch½"(1.3cm)seam,pivotingatcorners.

Pintheoppositesideofboxingstriptothefutoncoverback,rightsidestogether,matchingseamstocorners;stitch.Finishremainingseams.

Openthezipper;turnthefutoncoverrightsideout.Insertthefutonmattress;closethezipper,hidingthezipperpullunderthetab.

PARSONSCHAIR

Parsonschairsarepopulardiningroomchairs,withupholsteredbacksthatadjoinupholsteredseats.Thelinesareverytailoredandstraight,andthereisoftenafloor-lengthskirt.Theseone-pieceslipcoversconcealtheentirechairandhaveskirtswithinvertedboxpleatsatthecorners.

Thesedirectionsaresuitableforchairswithstraightbacks.Theupperedgeofthechairbackmustbenowiderthanthelowerback,oryouwon’tbeabletoslipthecoveron.Whenmeasuringthefrontandbackofthechairback,measureasiftherearecenteredsideseams,eveniftheseamsontheupholsteredchairarenotcentered.

Theskirtforthisstyleisself-lined,eliminatinganynoticeablehemlineandgivingtheskirtextrabody.

YOUWILLNEED

muslinforpattern

decoratorfabric

contrastingfabricforwelting,optional

cordingforwelting,optional

Pin-fittingthePattern

Measurethelengthandwidthofthefrontofthechairback.Add4"(10cm)tothelengthandthewidth.Cutmuslintosize.Markacenterlineonthelengthwisegrain.Markaline1"(2.5cm)fromtherawedgeattheupperedgeonthemuslin.

Repeatstep1forthebackofthechairback.Labelthepatternpieces.

Pinthefrontandbackpatternpiecesofthechairback,wrongsidestogether,attheuppermarkedlinematchingthecenterlines.Centerthepatternsonthechairbackandpinthepatternsatthesidesofthechair,allowingampleease.Markthesideseamsonboththefrontandbackpieces.

Measurethelengthofthechairseatfromthebacktowherethecushionmeetstheframeatthefront.Measurethewidthfromwherethecushionmeetstheframeatthesides.Cutmuslin6"(15cm)largerthanmeasurement.Markacenterlineonthelengthwisegrain.Labelthepatternpiece.

Pressunder1"(2.5cm)alongthebackofthechairseatpatternperpendiculartothecenterline.Thiswillbecomethestitchingline.Centerthepatternonthechairseatwiththepressedfoldevenwiththechairbackandsmooththefabricinplace.Pinoutexcessfabricatthefrontcorners,formingdarts.Markthedartseamlineswithapencil.

Markdotsonthefrontofthechairbackpatternandonthefoldofthechairseatpatternwherethepatternsmeetattheouteredgesofthe

seatback.Cutstraightupfromthebottomtothedotsonthefrontchairbackpiece,allowingthefabrictospreadsothesidecanbesmootheddownwardandthecenterbottombetweendotscanbesmoothedforwardundertheseatpattern.

Pintheseatpatterntothefrontchairbackpatternatthesides.Marktheseamonthefrontchairbackpiecebetweendots,evenwiththefoldoftheseatpattern.Continuemarkingtheseamlinedownthesidesofthefrontchairbackevenwiththefoldoftheseatpattern.

Measurethedistancefromthefloortowheretheseatcushionmeetstheframeatthechairfront.Recordthemeasurement.Markaseamlineonthepatternsallaroundthechairatthisheightfromthefloor.

Removethepatternsfromthechairandredrawseamlinesasnecessary.Repositionthepatternsonthechair;adjustasnecessary.Add½"(1.3cm)seamallowancestoallpatternpieces.Cutoutthepatterns.

SewingtheSlipcover

Usingthemuslinpatterns,cutoneofeachpiecefromthedecoratorfabric,matchingthefabricdesignacrossseams,ifnecessary.Transferallmarkings.

Staystitchthelowercornersofthefrontpiece,pivotingatthedots.Clipupto,butnotthrough,thestitchedcorner.

Stitchdartsonthefrontcornersofthechairseat.Trimtheexcessfabric¼"(6mm)fromthestitching,andpresstheseamallowancesopen.

Pinthechairseattothefront,matchingthedotsandloweredges.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.Finishtheseamallowancesandpressthemopen.

Pinthefront/seattothebackatthesidesandtop.Stitch.Usinga½"(1.3cm)seam,stitchthechairfrontandbacktogetheracrossthetopanddownthesides.Finishtheseamallowancesandpressthemopen.

Ifweltingisdesired,cutbiasstrips15/8"(4cm)wide.Thelengthoftheweltingisequaltothecircumferenceoftheloweredgeoftheslipcover.Makeandapplyweltingasonpage248.

Measuretheloweredgeoftheslipcoverbetweenthefrontdarts.Add14"(35.5cm)forseamandpleatallowancestodeterminethewidthofthefrontskirtpiece.Repeatforthesides,measuringfromthedarttothesideseam.Repeatfortheback,measuringbetweensideseams.Todeterminethelengthoftheskirtpieces,doublethemeasurementyou

recordedinstep8ofmakingthepattern,andadd1"(2.5cm).Atthislength,theskirtwillbrushthefloor.Adjustthemeasurementifyouwantitshorter.Cutthefourskirtpieces.

Stitchtheskirtpiecestogetherintoacircle,using½"(1.3cm)seams.Presstheseamallowancesopen.Foldtheskirtinhalfcrosswise,wrongsidestogether.Bastetheupperedgestogetherwithinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowance.

Markwithpins6½"(16.3cm)oneachsideofoneoftheskirtseams.Foldtheskirtatthepinmarksandbringthefoldstotheseamtoformaninvertedboxpleat.Pinthepleatinplace.Repeatatthethreeremainingseams.

Checkthefitoftheskirt;adjustthesizesofthepleatsifnecessary.Basteacrossthetopsofthepleatswithinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowance.Bastetheskirttothechairseatandback,rightsidestogether.Placetheslipcoveronthechairandcheckthelengthoftheskirt.Adjustifnecessary.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.Finishtheseamallowancestogether,andpressthemawayfromtheskirt.

WindowTreatments

TERMSTOKNOW

Thesewordsandphrasesareoftenusedtodescribewindowtreatmentsandconstructiontechniques.

Bias.Anydiagonallineintersectingthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsoffabric.Whilewovenfabricisverystableonthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrains,ithasconsiderablestretchonthebias.

Buckram.Stiffenedfabricthatgivessupporttotheheadingsofpleateddraperies.Buckram,availableinthedecoratingdepartmentoffabricstores,comesonarollinastandardwidthof4"(10cm).Itisalsoavailable,thoughsometimeshardertofind,in5"and6"(13and15cm)widthsformakingdraperieswithdeeperheadings.Youcanpurchasethelengthyouneed.Becausecutedgesofbuckramwillnotfray,itisalsousefulformakingtemplatesformarkingthepleatsandspaces.

Clearance.Thedistancebetweenthebackoftherodortreatmentandthewallorundertreatment,measuredatthefrontandsides.Theremustbeenoughclearancesothelayersofthewindowtreatmentdonotinterferewitheachother.

Crosswisegrain.Onwovenfabrics,thecrosswisegrainisperpendiculartotheselvages.Fabrichasslight“give”inthecrosswisegrain.

Cutlength.Thetotallengthatwhichfabricpiecesshouldbecutforthetreatment.Itincludesallowancesforanyhems,headings,rodpockets,andease.

Cutwidth.Thetotalwidththefabricshouldbecut.Ifmorethanonewidthoffabricisneeded,thecutwidthreferstotheentirepanelafterseamsaresewn,includingallowancesforanysidehems.

Finish.Toimprovethedurabilityofaseam,therawedgesaresecuredwithstitchesthatpreventthemfromfraying.Thiscanbedonewithzigzagstitchesthatwrapovertheedgeorwithserging.

Finishedlength.Thetotallengthofatreatmentafteritissewn.

Finishedwidth.Thetotalwidthofthetreatmentafteritissewn,includingthedepthofthereturns.

Flounce.Anextra-longheadingsewnatthetopofarod-pocketcurtainthatfallsforwardovertherodpocket.

Fullness.Thefinishedwidthofatreatmentcomparedtothelengthoftherodormountingboard.Forexample,twotimesfullnessmeansthatthewidthofthefabricistwotimesthelengthoftherod.

Heading.Theportionatthetopofarod-pockettreatmentthatformsarufflewhenthetreatmentisontherod.Thedepthoftheheadingisthedistancefromthefinishedupperedgetothetopstitchinglinefortherodpocket.

Interlining.Alayeroffabricencasedbetweenthetopfabricandtheliningtopreventlightfromshiningthroughortoaddbodytothetreatment.

Lengthwisegrain.Onwovenfabrics,thelengthwisegrainrunsparalleltotheselvages.Fabricsaregenerallystrongeralongthelengthwise

grain.

Lining.Afabricbackingsewntothefacefabrictoprovideextrabody,protectionfromsunlight,andsupportforsidehems.

Miter.Asquarecornerismadebyjoiningtwopieceswithaseamata45-degreeangle.

Mockup.Sometimesitisnecessarytomakeatestcurtaintofindaccuratemeasurements.Dothisbycuttingupinexpensivemuslinoranoldsheetandhangingitfromtherodinthesamemanneryouintendtohangthefinishedtreatment.

On-grain.Whenthelengthwiseandcrosswiseyarnsinwovenfabricareperfectlyperpendiculartoeachother.Ifthefabricisnoton-grainasitisprinted,itwillbeimpossibletomatchupthepatternortohaveatreatmentthathangsevenlywithstraight-cutloweredges.

Overlap.Ontraversingdraperies,thepanelslapovereachotheratthecenter.Thestandardoverlapdistanceis3½"(9cm).

Patternrepeat.Thelengthwisedistancefromonedistinctivepointinthefabricpattern,suchasthetipofaparticularpetalinafloralpattern,tothesamepointinthenextpatterndesign.

Projection.Thedistancearodormountingboardstandsoutfromthewall.

Railroading.Normallythelengthwisegrainofthefabricrunsverticallyinawindowtreatment.Sincedecoratorfabricisusually54"(137cm)wide,treatmentsthatarewiderthanthismusthaveverticalseams

joiningadditionalwidthsoffabric.Railroadingmeansthefabricisturnedsideways,sothelengthwisegrainrunshorizontally.Thefullwidthcanthenbecutinonepiece,eliminatingtheneedforanyseams.

Return.Theportionofthetreatmentthatextendsfromtheendoftherodormountingboardtothewall,blockingthesidelightandview.

Rodpocket.Thefabrictunnelwherethecurtainrodorpoleisinserted.Stitchinglinesatthetopandbottomofthepocketkeeptherodinplace.

Self-lined.Afabricpanellinedtotheedgewiththesamefabric.Ratherthancuttingtwopiecesandsewingthemtogether,onedouble-lengthpieceiscut,foldedrightsidestogether,andstitchedontheremainingthreesides,sooneedgewillhaveafoldinsteadofaseam.

Selvage.Thenarrow,tightlywovenedgesofthefabricthatdonotravelorfray.Theseshouldbecutawayonfirmlywovenfabricsbeforeseamingtopreventpuckeringoflongseams.Onlooselywovenfabrics,theselvagesshouldnotbetrimmedoffbecausetheyareneededforsupport.

Stackingspace.Thedistancefromthesidesofthewindowtotheendbracketsofthehardwarethatallowstraversingdraperiestoclearorpartiallyclearthewindowwhenthedraperiesareopen.Thisissometimesreferredtoasstackback.Roughlyestimatedatone-thirdofthetotaltreatmentwidth,thisdistancemustbefiguredintothefinishedwidthofthetreatmentsoyouknowwhatsizerodtobuy.

Undertreatment.Awindowtreatment—curtains,draperies,blinds,orashade—installedunderthetoptreatment,eitherinsideoroutsidethe

windowframe.Theundertreatmentismountedonitsownhardware,independentofthetoptreatment.

MEASURINGTHEWINDOW

Sketchthewindowtreatmenttoscaleongraphpaper,tohelpyoudeterminethemostpleasingproportionforthetreatmentaswellasthecorrectplacementofanyhardware.Afterinstallingthehardware,takeallnecessarymeasurements,usingasteeltapemeasureforaccuracy,andrecordthemeasurementsonthesketch.

Foreachproject,youwillneedtodeterminethefinishedlengthandwidthofthetreatment.Thefinishedlengthismeasuredfromthetopofthemountingboardorrod,orfromwhereyouwanttheupperedgeofacurtain,towhereyouwanttheloweredgeofthewindowtreatment.Thefinishedwidthisdeterminedbymeasuringthelengthoftherodormountingboard.Fortreatmentswithreturns,thefinishedwidthincludestwicetheprojectionoftherodormountingboard.

Specificinstructionsfordeterminingthecutlengthsandwidthsofthefabricaregivenforeachprojectinthisbook.Ingeneral,thecutwidthisdeterminedbymultiplyingthefinishedwidthbytheamountoffullnessdesired.Fullnessdescribesthefinishedwidthofthecurtainorvalanceinproportiontothelengthoftherodormountingboard.Forexample,twotimesfullnessmeansthatthewidthofthecurtainmeasurestwotimesthelengthoftherod.

Yardagerequirementscanbedeterminedbymultiplyingthecutlengthbythenumberoffabricwidthsneededtoobtainthecutwidth.Specialconsiderationsfordeterminingyardagerequirementsforpatternedfabricsaregivenonpage222.

TipsforMeasuring

Plantheproportionofthelayersinawindowtreatmentsothelengthofthetoptreatmentisaboutone-fifththelengthoftheoveralltreatment.Thetoptreatmentmaybeinstalledhigherthanthewindow,toaddvisualheighttotheoveralltreatment.Insomecases,itmaybedesirabletostartthetoptreatmentattheceiling,providedthetopofthewindowframeisnotvisibleattheloweredgeofthetoptreatment.

Planfortheshortestpointofatoptreatmenttofallatleast4"to6"(10to15cm)belowthetopofthewindowglass.Thispreventsyoufromseeingthewindowframeasyoulookupwardatthetoptreatment.

Allow½"(1.3cm)clearancebetweentheloweredgeofthecurtainandthefloorwhenmeasuringforfloor-lengthcurtains.

Add2"(5cm)tothemeasurementforfloor-lengthcurtainsforawindowtreatmentthatbreaksonthefloor.

Add20"(51cm)tothemeasurementforfloor-lengthcurtainsforawindowtreatmentthatpuddlesonthefloor.

Measureforallcurtainsintheroomtothesameheightfromthefloor,forauniformlook.Usethehighestwindowintheroomasthestandardformeasuringtheotherwindows.

SELECTINGANDINSTALLINGHARDWARE

Conventionalanddecorativerodsareavailableinmanystyles.Windowtreatmentsthathavearodpocketmaybemountedonnarrowcurtain

rods orwidecurtainrods ,whichareavailableineither2½"(6.5cm)or4½"(11.5cm)widths.Decorativemetalrodsandwoodpoles

withornatefinials aresuitablefortreatmentstylesthatrevealallorpartoftherod,suchastabcurtains.Theymaybeusedwithdecorative

rings ,whicharesewnorclippedtothetopofacurtainpanel.

Hardwareaccessoriesarebothdecorativeandfunctional.Concealed

tiebackholders fitbehindthelastfoldofpleatedorrod-pocketdraperiestopreventthetiebackfromcrushingthedraperies.Cord-and-

tasseltiebacks areusedwithconcealedordecorativeholderstohold

draperiesinplace.Holdbacks ,asthenameimplies,holdbackastationarycurtainordraperywithouttheuseoftiebacks.Swagholders

,inawiderangeofstyles,supportthedrapedfabricinswagwindowtreatments.Somestylesaremeanttobeconcealed,whileothersareobviouslydecorative.

Conventionaltraverserods,designedforpleateddraperies,areavailableinwhite,ivory,andwoodtones.Draperyhooksareinsertedsothepleatsconcealtherodwhenthetreatmentisclosed.Valancesorcornicesareusedoverthetopofthedraperiestocompletelyconcealtherod.Flexibletraverserodsareusedforpleateddraperiesonbowwindows.

Windowtreatmenthardwareisavailableinawiderangeofstylestosuitanydecoratingplan.Considerbothdecorativeandfunctionalneedswhenselectinghardware.Somecurtainrodsaredesignedtobecoveredcompletelybythefabric,whileothersmayhavedecorativefinishesandornatefinialsthatenhancethetreatment.Selectandinstallthehardwarebeforemeasuringforthewindowtreatment,becausethecutlengthofthefabricwillvarydependingonthehardwareplacement.

Windowtreatmenthardwareispackagedcompletewithmountingbrackets,screwsornails,andinstallationinstructions.Usescrewsaloneifinstallingthroughdrywallorplasterdirectlyintowallstuds.Whenbracketsarepositionedbetweenwallstuds,supportthescrewsforlightweighttreatmentswithplasticanchorsinthecorrectsizeforthescrews.Ifthebracketsmustsupportaheavywindowtreatment,useplastictoggleanchorsinthecorrectsizeforthewallboarddepth,orusemollybolts.Ifnailsaresuppliedwiththehardware,usethemonlyforlightweighttreatmentsinstalleddirectlytothewindowframe.Otherwise,substitutescrewsormollyboltsthatfitthroughtheholesinthebrackets.

HowtoInstallBracketsUsingPlasticAnchors

Markscrewlocationsonwall.Drillholesforplasticanchors,usingdrillbitslightlysmallerthandiameterofplasticanchor.Tapanchorsintodrilledholes,usinghammer.

Insertscrewthroughholeinbracketandintoinstalledplasticanchor.Tightenscrewsecurely;anchorexpandsindrywall,preventingitfrompullingoutofwall.

HowtoInstallBracketsUsingPlasticToggleAnchors

Markscrewlocationsonwall.Drillholesforplastictoggleanchors,usingdrillbitslightlysmallerthandiameteroftoggleanchorshank.

Squeezewingsoftoggleanchorflat,andpushtoggleanchorintohole;tapinwithhammeruntilitisflushwithwall.

Insertscrewthroughholeinbracketandintoinstalledanchor;tightenscrew.Wingsspreadoutandflattenagainstthebacksideofdrywall.

HowtoInstallBracketsUsingMollyBolts

Markscrewlocationsonwall.Drillholesformollybolts,usingdrillbitslightlysmallerthanthediameterofmollybolt.

Tapmollyboltintodrilledhole,usinghammer;tightenscrew.Mollyboltexpandsandflattensagainstbackofdrywall.

Removescrewfrommollybolt;insertthescrewthroughholeinbracketandintoinstalledmollybolt.Screwthebracketsecurelyinplace.

HowtoInstallaTraverseRod

MounttheendrodbracketswiththeU-shapedsocketfacingupward.

Hookthelippedsupportclipofthecenterbracketoverthecenteroftherod;positiontherod,fittingtheendsoftherodintotheendbrackets.Markthescrewholesforthecenterbracket.

Taketheroddown,andmountthecenterbracket.Lifttherodintopositionagain;snapthecentersupportclipovertherod,hookingitintothegrooveatthefrontoftherod.Usingascrewdriver,turnthecamontheundersideofthebracket,lockingtheclipinplace.

Pushtheoverlapandunderlapmasterslidestotheoppositeendsoftherod.Attheleftside,reachbehindtheunderlapslideforthecord.Pullthecordslightlytoformasmallloop;hooktheloopsecurelyovertheplasticfingerthatprojectsfromthebackofthemasterslide.

Separatethestemfromthepulleybase;holdthebaseagainstthewallnearthefloor,directlybelowapoint2"(5cm)infromtherightendbracketoftherod.Markscrewlocations;mountthebracket.

Attachthestemtothepulleybase.Pulluponthecordhousing,exposingtheholeontheinnerstem.Insertasmallnailthroughtheholesothestemremainsextended.Attachthecordtothepulley,slippingtheloopendofthecordthroughtheslotinthecordhousing.

Reachbehindtheoverlapmasterslideattherightendoftherod;locatethetwoknotsatthebackoftheslide.

Pulltheknotnearesttheglidesuntilthecordhangingatthesideoftherodistautagainstthepulleywheel.Tieanewknotinthecordatthebackoftheslide,withexcesscordhangingdown.Removethenailfromtheinnerstemofthepulley.Cutofftheexcesscord;tightentheknotsecurely.

Suppliesincludemountingboard,angleirons,pan-headscrews,andmollybolts.

COVERINGANDINSTALLINGMOUNTINGBOARDS

Manywindowtreatments,includingRomanshadesandavarietyofvalancestyles,aremountedonboards,ratherthanondraperyhardware.

Themountingboardiscoveredwithfabrictomatchthewindowtreatmentorwithdraperylining,andthewindowtreatmentisthenstapledtotheboard.Thetreatmentmaybeinstalledasanoutsidemount,securingittothewindowframeortothewallabovethewindowframe.Foraninsidemount,thetreatmentisinstalledinsidetheupperwindowframe,flushwiththefrontoftheframe.

Thesizeofthemountingboardvaries,dependingonwhethertheboard-mountedwindowtreatmentisaninsideoroutsidemountandwhetheritisbeingusedaloneorwithanundertreatment.Whenusingstock,ornominal,lumber,keepinmindthattheactualmeasurementdiffersfromthenominalmeasurement.A1×2boardmeasures¾"×1½"(2×3.8cm),a1×4measures¾"×3½"(2×9cm),a1×6measures¾"×5½"(2×14cm),anda1×8measures¾"×7¼"(2×19cm).

Foraninside-mountedwindowtreatment,thedepthofthewindowframemustbeatleast1½"(3.8cm),toaccommodatea1×2mountingboard.Cutthemountingboard½"(1.3cm)shorterthantheinsidemeasurementacrossthewindowframe,toensurethattheboardwillfitinsidetheframeafteritiscoveredwithfabric.

Theprojection(page273)necessaryforanoutside-mountedtoptreatmentdependsontheprojectionofanyexistingundertreatment.Iftheundertreatmentisstationary,allowatleast2"(5cm)ofclearance

betweenitandthetoptreatment;iftheundertreatmenttraverses,allowatleast3"(7.5cm)ofclearance.Ifthereisnoundertreatmentoriftheundertreatmentismountedinsidethewindowframe,usea1×4boardforthetoptreatment.Cutthemountingboardatleast2"(5cm)widerthantheoutsidewidthofthewindowframe.Installtheboardusingangleironsthatmeasuremorethanone-halftheprojectionoftheboard.

Foranoutside-mountedRomanshade,use1×2board,cut2"(5cm)longerthantheoutsidewidthofthewindowframe.Attachtheboardflattothewallfora¾"(2cm)projection.Thisallowstheshadetorestclosetothewindowframeforoptimumlightcontrolandprivacy.

CuttingDirections

Cutthefabrictocoverthemountingboard,withthewidthofthefabricequaltothedistancearoundtheboardplus1"(2.5cm)andthelengthofthefabricequaltothelengthoftheboardplus3"(7.5cm).

HowtoCovertheMountingBoardwithFabric

Centerboardonwrongsideoffabric.Stapleonelongedgeoffabrictoboard,placingstaplesabout8"(20.5cm)apart;donotstaplewithin6"(15cm)ofends.Wrapfabricaroundboard.Foldunder3/8"(1cm)onlongedge;stapletoboard,placingstaplesabout6"(15cm)apart.

Miterfabricatcornersonsideoftheboardwithunfoldedfabricedge;fingerpress.Staplemitersinplacenearrawedge.

Miterfabricatcornersonsideoftheboardwithfoldedfabricedge;fingerpress.Foldunderexcessfabricatends;staplenearfold.

HowtoInstallanInside-mountedBoard

Covermountingboard.Attachwindowtreatmenttomountingboard.Holdboardinplaceagainstupperwindowframe,withwidesideofboardup;alignfrontedgetoframe.

Predrillscrewholesthroughtheboardandupintowindowframe,using1/8"drillbit;drillholeswithin1"(2.5cm)ofeachendofboardandincenterforwidewindowtreatments.Adjusttheplacementofholestoavoidscreweyes,ifany.Secureboard,using8"×1½"(20×3.8cm)round-headscrews.

HowtoInstallanOutside-mountedBoard

Covermountingboard.Attachwindowtreatmenttoboard.Markscrewholesforangleironsonbottomofboard,positioningangleironswithin1"(2.5cm)ofeachendofboardandat45"(115cm)intervalsorless.

Predrillscrewholesintotheboard;sizeofdrillbitdependsonscrewsizerequiredforangleiron.Screwangleironstoboard.

Holdboardatdesiredplacement,makingsureitislevel;markscrewholesonwallorwindowframe.Removeangleironsfromboard.

Secureangleironstothewall,using1½"(3.8cm)flat-headscrews,intowallstuds;ifangleironsarenotpositionedatwallstuds,usemollyboltsortoggleanchorsinsteadofflat-headscrews.

Repositionwindowtreatmentonangleirons,aligningscrewholes;fastenscrews.

Romanshademountedwith¾"(2cm)projection.Installboardflattowallatdesiredlocationabovewindow,predrillingholesthroughboardintowall.Securewith8×2½"(6.5cm)flat-headscrewsintowallstuds;usemollyboltsortoggleanchorsifnotscrewingintowallstuds.

HEMS

Ifyouhavemeasured,figured,andcutaccurately,yourwindowtreatmentsshouldfitperfectlyoncetheyarehemmed.Forcurtainsanddraperies,followtheprocedureusedinprofessionalworkrooms:sewthelowerhemsfirst,thesidehemsnext,andtheheadinglast.

Sideandlowerhemsofcurtainsarealwaysdoubletoprovidestrength,weight,andstability.Themostaccuratewaytomakeadouble-foldhemistopressthefullhemdepthunderfirst,andthenopenandturnthecutedgeunderuptothefoldline.Cutofftheselvagesevenlybeforepressingthesidehems.

Curtainshangbetterwhenhemsareweightedoranchored.Sewsmallweightsintothehemsatthelowercornersandbottomsofseamstokeepthecurtainfrompullingorpuckering.

HowtoSewaDouble-foldHem

Lowerhem. Turnunderandpressthefullhemallowanceontheloweredge;8"(20.5cm)forfloor-lengthcurtainsor6"(15cm)forsilllengthcurtains.Unfoldandturnthecutedgeundertomeetthefoldline;pressouterfold.

Tackdraperyweighttohemallowanceateachseam.Refoldoninnerfoldline,encasingcutedge;pin.Stitchhem.

Sidehem.Turnunderandpress1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehemsasinstep1forlowerhem;pin.Tackdraperyweightsinsidehems,about3"(7.5cm)fromloweredge.Refoldandstitchhem.

ThreeWaystoFinishHems

Straight-stitchonfoldedhemedge,usingeighttotenstitchesperinch(2.5cm).Usethreadtomatchsolidcolorfabricorblendwithmulticolorfabric.Stitchslowlythroughmultiplelayers.

Machineblindstitch.Adjustmachinetoblindstitchsettingandattachblindstitchfoot.Foldhemunder,leavinginnerfoldextending1/8"(3mm).Alignguideinfoottosoftfold.Adjuststitchwidthtotaketinybiteintosoftfold.

Fusedhem.Fusepaper-backedadhesivestriptohem;removepaperbacking,andfuseheminplace.Followmanufacturer’sinstructionsforfusing.Pressfrombothsides.

TAPEREDSCARFSWAGS

Taperedscarfswagsdrapeintosmooth,evenfoldsandarelinedforextrabody.Usedalonetopunctuatethetopofawindoworasacomplementtodraperiesorblinds,theversatiletaperedscarfswagissuitedformanydécorstyles.Dependingonthefabricandhardwarechosen,aswellasthelengthofthetails,ataperedscarfcanworkinroomsasvariedasabreakfastnookandastatelylivingroom.

Designswagsthatdrapeintoasingleswooporintomultipleswoops.Thetailscanstopjustshortof,breakat,orpuddleonthefloor(thelastismostformal).Shortertailsthatcometothebottomofthewindowframeortopointstwo-thirdsorone-thirdthewindowlengthhaveendsthatangleupandintowardthewindow.Inthismethod,theshapingoftheswagisachievedbycuttingwedgesofexcessfullnessfromalengthoffabricateachpointwheretheswagcrossesaswagholderorpole.Theswagisthenconstructedbysewingtheangledpiecestogetherandaddingalining.

Thisscarfswagusesthefullwidthofthefabricandcanbeeitherself-linedorlinedinacontrastingfabric.Nearlyanydecoratorfabriccanbeused,fromsemi-sheertobrocade.Evenone-wayprintsaresuitable,becausethedirectionofthefabriccanbeswitchedatatailseam.

Holdersformountingtheswagsareavailableinseveralstyles,includingmedallionsandscarfrings;decorativetiebackholdersandholdbackscanalsobeused.Ataperedswagwithasingleswoopcanalsobedrapedoveradecorativepole.Mounttheholdersattheuppercornersofthe

windowframeandinanyotherdesiredlocationsbeforebeginningtheproject,andmeasureforthetreatmentusingtwilltape.

HowtoMeasureforaSingleSwoop

Mounttheswagholdersordecorativepoleinthedesiredlocations.Drapealengthoftwilltapeovertheholdersorpole,extendingtothedesiredlengthofthesidesandstretchingstraightacrossthetopofthewindow.Thiswillbethefinishedlengthofthetopandoutersidesoftheswag.

Drapeasecondlengthoftwilltapeovertheholdersorpole,extendingtothedesiredshortestpointsofthetaperedsidesanddippingtothelowestpointdesiredatthecenteroftheswoop.Thiswillbethefinishedlengthofthebottomandinnersidesoftheswag.Markbothtapesattheholdersoroutermostpointsonthepole.

Measureandrecordthelengthsofthetapeforeachsection.

Measurement isfromthelongpointtotheholderorpole, isfrom

theshortpointtotheholderorpole, isthedistancestraightacross

betweentheholdersoralongthepole,and isthelengthoftheloweredgeoftheswoop.

YOUWILLNEED

decorativeswagholders(oneholderateachuppercornerofthewindowforaswagwithasingleswoop,andoneholderforeachadditionalswoop)ordecorativepole toolsandhardwareforinstallation twilltape

decoratorfabricforswag,lengthdeterminedinstep1,page290forswagwithsingleswooporstep1,page291forswagwithmultipleswoops matchingorcontrastingfabricforlining,lengthequaltodecoratorfabric double-sidedcarpettape,optional

HowtoSewaSingleSwoop

Cutthefullwidthofthefabric,withthelengthequalto

measurement plustwotimesmeasurement plus3"(7.5cm)forseamallowances.Measurefromeachendofthefabricadistanceequal

to plus1"(2.5cm).Cutacrossthefabricperpendiculartotheselvagesatthesepoints,toseparatetheendpiecesfromthecenter.

Turnoneendpiececompletelyaround,ifyouareusingfabricwithanobviousone-waydesign,sotheupwarddirectiononbothendspointstowardthemiddle;whenhungthedesignwillfaceinthecorrectdirectiononbothendpieces.Labelthetopofeachendpiece.

Subtractmeasurement frommeasurement .Markapointontheinneredgeofoneendpiecethisdistancefromthelowercutedge.Drawalinefromthispointtotheloweroutsidecorner;cutawaythetriangularwedge.Repeatfortheotherendpiece,cuttingtheangleintheoppositedirection.

Subtractmeasurement frommeasurement ;dividethismeasurementinhalf.Markapointonthetopedgeofthecenterpiecethisdistancefromonecutend.Drawalinefromthispointtothelowercorner;cutawaythetriangularwedge.Repeatfortheoppositecutendofthecenterpiece.

Trimofftheselvages.Cutthelining,usingtheswagpiecesaspatterns;labelthetopsoftheliningpieces.Stitchtheswagpiecestogetherusing½"(1.3cm)seams,easingtheedgestofit;repeatfortheliningpieces.Presstheseamallowancesopen.

Pintheliningtotheswag,rightsidestogether.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamallaround,leavinganopeningalongthecentertopforturning.Trimthecornersdiagonally.Presstheliningseamallowancetowardthelining.

Turntheswagrightsideout;presstheseamededges.Slipstitchtheopeningclosed.Fanfoldtheswagalongtheseamlines,keepingthenumberanddepthoffoldsconsistent.Tiethefoldswithtwilltape.Hangtheswagthroughscarfringsorovermedallion-stylescarfholdersortiebackholders.Orhangtheswagoverapole,withthecenterswoopinfront.Arrangethefoldsintheswagandsides.Removethetwilltape.Ifnecessary,securethefabrictotheholderorpoleinconspicuously,usingdouble-sidedcarpettape.

HowtoMeasureforMultipleSwoops

Mounttheswagholdersorpoleinthedesiredlocations.Drapealengthoftwilltapeovertheholdersorpole,extendingtothelongestpointsofthetaperedsidesandstretchingstraightacrossthetopofthewindoworpole.Thiswillbethefinishedlengthofthetopoftheswag.

Drapeasecondlengthoftwilltapeovertheholdersorpole,extendingtotheshortestpointsofthetaperedsidesanddippingtothelowestpointdesiredatthecenterofeachswoop.Thiswillbethefinishedlengthonthebottomoftheswag.Markbothtapesattheholdersorattheattachmentpointsonthepole.

Measureandrecordthelengthsofthetapeforeachsection.

Measurement isfromthelongpointtotheholderorpole.

Measurement isfromtheshortpointtotheholderorpole.

Measurement isthedistancestraightacrossbetweentheholdersor

alongthepole.Measurement isthetotallengthofalltheswoopsbetweentheendholdersorendattachmentpointstothepole.

HowtoSewMultipleSwoops

Cutthefullwidthofthefabric,withthelengthequalto

measurement plustwotimesmeasurement plus1"(2.5cm)foreachswoopplusanadditional2"(5cm).Measurefromeachendofthe

fabricadistanceequaltomeasurement plus1"(2.5cm).Cutacrossthefabricperpendiculartotheselvagesatthesepoints.Followsteps2and3onpage290.

Measurethelengthofthecenterpiece;dividethismeasurementbythenumberofswoopsintheswag.Markthecenterpieceintolengthsofthissize;cutthefabricperpendiculartotheselvagesatthesepoints.

Subtractmeasurement frommeasurement .Dividethismeasurementbythenumberofswoopsintheswag;thendividethisnumberinhalf.Markapointonthetopedgeofoneswooppiecethisdistancefromonecutend.Drawalinefromthispointtothelowercorner;cutawaythetriangularwedge.Repeatfortheoppositecutendofthesamepiece.Cutidenticalwedgesfromeachremainingswooppiece.Completetheswagasonpage290,steps5to7.

GATHEREDPICKUPVALANCE

Agatheredpickupvalancebeginsasaflat,linedrectanglewitharodpocketandheading.Atevenlyspacedintervals,verticalrowsoftucksaresewnintothevalance,drawingthelowersectionofthevalanceupintogracefulbells.Thefabricbetweenthebellsfallsintogentleswags.Weltingattheloweredgeaccentsandsupportsthecurvesofthebellsandswags.Acontrastingfabric,usedtolinethevalance,peeksfromtheinsideofeachbell.

Whenplanningthedesignofthevalance,workwithenoughfullandhalfwidthsoffabrictoequalabouttwo-and-one-halftimesfullness.Bellsarepositionedateachseamandateachmidpointbetweenseams.Thoughyouusuallyshouldn’tpositionprominentdetailsofawindowtreatmentatseams,thispatternofplacementcoincideswiththeplacementoflargemotifsinmostdecoratorfabrics,allowingthemainmotifstofallinthecenterofeachswag.

Thevalancehangsstraightdownatthereturnstoalengththatisabout6"(15cm)longerthanthecenterofeachswag.Theshortestpointatthebackofeachbellisabout2"(5cm)shorterthantheswags.

Medium-weightdecoratorfabricsworkwellforthisvalance.Toaddbodyandaslightlypaddedappearance,interlinethevalancewithflannel.Selectcontrastingfabricfortheliningandforthefabric-coveredwelting.

Mountthevalanceonaplainnarrowpolewithelbowsorautilityrodjustaboveandtotheoutsideofthewindowframe.

CuttingDirections

Thecutlengthofthevalancefabricisequaltothefinishedlengthattheside(fromtheundersideoftherodtothehem)plustwicetherod-pocketdepthplustwicetheheadingheightplus1"(2.5cm).

Thecutwidthofthevalanceisequaltotherodlengthplustwicetheprojectionoftherod,multipliedbytwo-and-one-halftimesfullness.Aftercalculatingthefullcutwidth,dividethisnumberbythefabricwidthandroundtothenearestnumberoffullandhalfwidthstopiecetogether.

Cutthefabricforthecontrastliningtothesamelengthandwidthasthevalancefabric.

Ifinterliningisdesired,thecutwidthoftheinterliningfabricisequaltothetotalwidthofthevalancefabricafterseaming.Thecutlengthoftheinterliningfabricisequaltothefinishedlengthofthevalance.Ifpossible,railroad(page273)theinterliningtoavoidseams.

Cutbiasfabricstripsifmakingfabric-coveredwelting,followingstep1onpage248.

Infabricswithlargemotifs,onecompleteverticalrepeatwillhavetworowsofmotifswithstaggeredplacement.Onerowwillhavetwofullmotifs,whilethesecondrowwillhaveonefullmotifinthecenterandtwohalvesofanothermotifmatchingattheselvages.Cutthevalancepieceswiththeprimarymotifsinthelower12"to15"(30.5to38cm),sotheywillbemorevisibleinthefinishedvalance.

YOUWILLNEED

decoratorfabricforvalancedecoratorfabricforcontrastinglining

fabric-coveredwelting,twistedwelting,or½"(1.3cm)fillercordandfabricformakingfabric-coveredwelting

flannelinterlining,optional

curtainrod

toolsandhardwareforinstallation

HowtoMakeaGatheredPickupValance

Seamthevalancefabricwidthstogether.Repeatforthelining.Checktoseethatthevalanceandliningareexactlythesamesize.

Makefabric-coveredwelting(page248),ifdesired,andstitchittotheloweredgeofthevalance;beginandendthewelting½"(1.3cm)fromthesideedges.Alternatively,attachpurchasedwelting.Foravalancewithoutinterlining,omitstep3.

Seamtheinterlining,ifnecessary.Pintheinterliningtothewrongsideoftheliningalongthesides,withtheloweredgeoftheinterlining½"(1.3cm)abovetheloweredgeofthelining.Bastewithinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesonthesides.

Placethevalanceandliningrightsidestogether,matchingtherawedges;pinalongthesidesandloweredge.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seamsonthesidesandloweredge,usingazipperfootandstitchingwiththevalancefabricontop.Alongtheloweredge,stitchinsidethepreviousstitchingline,crowdingthestitchesagainstthewelting.

Trimthelowercornersdiagonally.Turnthevalancerightsideout.Pressthesidesandtheloweredges.Ifthevalanceisinterlined,smooththeinterlininginplace,checkingtoseethattheupperedgeoftheinterliningstopsadistancefromtheupperedgeofthevalanceequaltotheheadingdepthplustherod-pocketdepthplus½"(1.3cm).

Pressunder½"(1.3cm)ontheupperedge,turningunderthevalanceandliningtogether.Thenpressunderanamountequaltothe

headingdepthplustherod-pocketdepth;pin.

Stitchclosetothefirstfold;stitchagainatthedepthoftheheading,usingtapeonthebedofthesewingmachineasastitchingguide.

Laythevalancefacedownonaflatsurface.Markforverticalrowsoftucksateachseamandateachmidpointbetweentheseams.Thedistancefromtheouterrowofmarkstothesideedgeequalsthedistancebetweenrows.Measureup10"(25.5cm)fromtheloweredgefortheplacementofthefirstmarkineachrow.Placetheremainingmarksevenlyspacedbetweenthelowermarkandthelowerstitchinglineoftherodpocket,dividingthedistanceintothreeequalparts.

Threadalarge-eyedneedlewithheavythread.Inserttheneedleintothevalanceatthelowestmarkinarow.Bringtheneedlebackthroughtotheliningsideofthevalanceatthenextmarkandinsertitbackthrough¼"(6mm)aboveit.Repeat,takingasmallstitchateachmarkandrunningthethreadontherightsideofthevalance.Bringtheneedlethroughatthelowerstitchinglineoftherodpocket.Inserttheneedlebackthrough¼"(6mm)tothesideofthetopstitch.

Makeasecondrowofstitchesalongsidethefirstrowbacktothelowestmark.Cutthethread,leavingtails.

Repeatsteps9and10foreachmarkedrow.Pullupthestitchestomakethreetucksineachrow.Knotthethreadsecurely.

Inserttherodintotherodpocket.Mounttherod;distributethegathersevenly.Shapethebellsandswags.

FLATROMANSHADES

AflatRomanshadeisatailored,economicalwindowtreatmentthatcontrolslightandprovidesprivacy.Completelyflatwhenlowered,thisstyleisagoodchoicelayeredundertied-backcurtains,draperysidepanels,orswags.

Thisshadedesignisminimalanduncomplicated,butitdoesn’thavetobeboring.Liningprovidesaddedbody,preventsfabricfading,andcreatesauniformappearancefromtheoutside.Asystemofevenlyspacedringsthroughwhichcordsarerunonthebackoftheshademakesitpossibletoraiseandlowertheshade.Theringsarespacedinevencolumnsandrowssotheshadewillfoldneatlyatregularintervalswhenraised.

Chooseasturdy,firmdecoratorfabrictogivetheshadeacrisplook.Becausetheshadeisabsolutelyflatwhenlowered,itisagreatwaytoshowoffalargeall-overprint.Thesedirectionsaresuitableforashadethatisatleast2"(5cm)narrowerthanthefabricwidth.Ifthewindowiswider,useonefullwidthoffabricforacenterpanelandaddequal,narrowpiecestothesides.

Mountedonaboard,theshadecanbeinstalledasaninsidemount,securedinsidetheupperwindowframe,flushwiththefrontoftheframe.Foranoutsidemount,theshadeisinstalledonthewallatleast1"(2.5cm)abovetheframe.Useaverynarrowprojectionbecausetheshadedoesnotwrapovertheendsoftheboard.Tofindthefinishedlengthoftheshadeforanoutsidemount,measurefromthetopofthe

mountingboardtothesillor½"(1.3cm)belowtheapron;foraninsidemount,measuretheinsideframetothesill.Thefinishedwidthoftheshadeisequaltothelengthofthemountingboardplus¼"(6mm).

CuttingDirections

Cutamountingboard2"(5cm)longerthantheoutsidemeasurementofthewindowframeforanoutsidemountor½"(1.3cm)shorterthantheinsidemeasurementforaninsidemount.Cutastripoffabricforcoveringtheboard½"(1.3cm)widerthantheboardcircumferenceand2"(5cm)longerthantheboardlength.

Thecutwidthofthedecoratorfabricisequaltothefinishedwidthplus2"(5cm).Thecutlengthisequaltothefinishedlengthplus7"(18cm).Thisincludesallowanceforlengththatmaybelostinstitching;theexactlengthiscutafterthepanelhasbeensewn.Donotuseaselvageasanedge.Cuttheliningfabricwiththewidthequaltothefinishedwidthandthelengthequaltothefinishedlengthplus3½"(9cm).

YOUWILLNEED

mountingboard

decoratorfabric

1"(2.5cm)angleironswithscrewsforoutsidemount toolsforinstallation paper-backedfusibleadhesivestrip,¾"(1.9cm)wide draperylining

graphpaper

plasticrings,3/8"or½"(1or1.3cm) flatmetalweightbar,½"(1.3cm)wide,cut½"(1.3cm)shorterthanfinishedwidthofshade staplegunandstaples screweyes

shadecord

whiteglue

draperypull,optional awningcleat

HowtoMakeaFlatRomanShade

Cutthemountingboardandcoveritwithfabric(page284).Iftheshadewillbemountedoutsidethewindowframe,secureangleironstothebottomoftheboard,neartheendsandat45"(114cm)intervals,usingpan-headscrews.Mounttheboard(page285),centeredabovethewindowframe.Measureforthefinishedsizeoftheshade.Removethescrewsthatholdthemountingboardtotheangleirons,leavingtheangleironsonthewall.

Pressunder1"(2.5cm)onthesidesoftheshade.Cutstripsof¾"(1.9cm)paper-backedfusiblewebthelengthofeachside.Turnbackthehemandplacethestripsnearthecutedge.Pressoverthestripstofusethemtothehemallowance,followingthemanufacturer’sdirections.

Placetheliningovertheshadefabric,wrongsidestogether,withtheloweredgeofthelining3½"(8.9cm)abovetheloweredgeoftheshadefabric;tucktheliningunderthesidehems.Removetheprotectivepaperbackingfromthefusibleweb,andpresstofusethehemsinplace.

Pressunder½"(1.3cm)attheloweredge;thenpressunder3"(7.6cm)toformthehempocket.Theloweredgeoftheliningshouldnowbeevenwiththebottomfoldoftheshade.Pintheheminplace.Edgestitchalongthetopfoldofthehemthroughalllayers.

Ontheliningside,drawalineacrossthetopoftheshadeatthe

finishedlength.Drawasecondline1½"(3.8cm)aboveit(equaltotheboardprojection).Cutoffexcessfabricalongthetopline.Pinthelayerstogether,andfinishtheupperedgestogether.

Diagramthebackoftheshadeonpaper,indicatingthefinishedlengthandwidth.Markthehem3"(7.6cm)fromtheloweredge.Planthelocationsofringsincolumnsspaced8"to12"(20to30.5cm)apart,withtheoutercolumns¾"(1.9cm)fromtheedgesoftheshade.Spacetheminevenhorizontalrows5"to8"(13to20cm)apartwiththebottomrowatthetopofthehemandthetoprowonthemarkedline.Here’showtodothemath:Subtract1½"(3.8cm)fromthefinishedwidthoftheshade.Dividethisadjustedwidthby12"(30.5cm)androunduptothenearestwholenumbertofindthenumberofspacesbetweencolumns—therewillbeonemorecolumnthanspaces.Dividetheadjustedwidthbythenumberofspacestofindthedistancebetweencolumns.

Measurethelengthoftheshadefromthetopofthehemtotheuppermarkedline.Dividethisdistanceby8"(20cm)androunduptothenearestwholenumbertofindthenumberofspacesbetweenrows.Dividethedistancebythenumberofspacestofindthedistancebetweenrows.

Marktheplacementfortheringsontheliningsideoftheshade,followingyourdiagram.Thebottomrowofringsisattheupperedgeofthehem;thetoprowisthedetermineddistancebelowthetopmarkedline.(Therearenoringsonthetopline.)Pinhorizontallythroughbothlayersoffabricateachmark.

Stitcharingateachmarkthroughbothlayersoffabric,stitchingeitherbymachineorbyhand.Reinforcetheringsinthebottomrowwithextrastitchesbecausetheycarrytheweightoftheshade.

Inserttheflatweightbarintothehempocket.Slipstitchthesideopeningsclosed.

Stapletheshadetothetopofthemountingboard,aligningthemarkedlinetothetopfrontedgeoftheboard.

Drillpilotholesandinsertscreweyes,centeredontheundersideofthemountingboard,aligningthemtothecolumnsofrings.

Onthesidewhereyouwantthecordstohang,runcordthroughthefirstcolumnofrings,throughthetopscreweye,andatleasthalfwaydowntheside.Theextralengthneededdependsonthelocationofthewindowandwhetherornotyouwantittobeaccessibletochildren.Cutthecordandtieanonslipknotatthebottomring.Repeatforeachcolumninorder,runningthecordsalsothroughthepreviousscreweyes.Applygluetotheknotsforsecurity.

Reattachthemountingboardtotheangleironsforanoutsidemountorinstallthemountingboarddirectlytotheundersideofthewindowframe,insertingscrewsthroughpilotholes,foraninsidemount.

Adjustthecordswiththeshadedownsothetensiononallcordsisequal.Tiethecordsinaknotjustbelowthefirstscreweye.Braidthecords,insertthemthroughadraperypull,ifdesired,andknot

andtrimtheends.

Secureanawningcleattotheedgeofthewindowframeoronthewall.Pullgentlyonthecordstoraisetheshade,formingsoftfolds.Windthecordaroundthecleattoholdtheshadeinitsraisedposition.Thefirsttimeyouraisetheshade,youmayhaveto“train”itwheretofold.Asyouraisetheshade,pulltheexcessfabricbetweenhorizontalrowsforward,forminggentlerolls.Tohelpit“remember,”leavetheshadeintheraisedpositionforadayortwo.

TUCKEDROMANSHADES

Narrow,horizontalstitchedtucks“remind”thisshadewheretofoldwhenitisraised.Withitsclean-linedappearance,atuckedshadeallowsasmuchofthewindowtobeexposedasdesiredandprovidescompletecoveragewhenneeded.

Designthisshadewithnarrowtucksthatalternatefromfronttobackorwithtucksinthebackonly.Theringsareattachedtothebacktucks.Whentheshadeisraised,thefabricfoldsalongthetucksaccordion-style,fromthebottom.Thefoldstakeupminimalspacewhencompletelyraised.Tohelptheshadehangsmoothly,aweightbarisinsertedintothehemattheloweredge.

Usefirmlywovendecoratorfabricforcrisp,straighttucks.Becausethetuckswillbreakupthesurface,thisstyleisbestforsmallall-overprints,solids,andstripes.Ifyouwanttousealargeprint,stitchonlybacktuckstoavoidinteruptingthedesign.Liningprovidesaddedbodyandlightcontrolwhilehelpingsupporttucks.Thisshadeisattachedtoamountingboardandmaybeinstalledaseitheranoutsideorinsidemount.Foranoutsidemount,themountingboardisinstalledabovethewindowandextendstoeitherthesillor½"(1.3cm)belowtheapron.Theshadeshouldextendatleast1"(2.5cm)beyondthewindowframeoneachside.Useaverynarrowprojectionbecausetheshadedoesnotwrapovertheendsoftheboard.Foraninsidemount,measureacrossthewindowinsidetheframe.Toallowforvarianceinthewidthoftheframe,measureitacrossthetop,middle,andbottom.Thefinishedwidthshouldbe1/8"(3mm)lessthantheshortestofthesethree

measurements.

Foranoutside-mountedshade,iftheestimatedfinishedlengthoftheshadeisnotevenlydivisiblebythedesiredspacebetweenthetucks,thelengthcanbeincreaseduntilitis,ifthereisthenecessarywallspaceabovethewindow.Forexample,ifyouwouldlike4"(10cm)spacesbetweenthetucksandtheestimatedfinishedlengthis45"(114cm),youcanmaketheshade48"(122cm)long,whichisdivisiblebyfour.Thisallowsfora4"(10cm)spacebetweeneachofthetucks,a4"(10cm)spaceatthetop,anda4"(10cm)hemdepthatthebottomoftheshade,foratotaloftwelvespaces.

Sometimesthelengthoftheshadecannotbeadjusted,asforaninside-mountedshadethatmustfitwithinthewindowframe.Inthiscase,thespacingbetweenthetuckscanbeadjusted.Forexample,iftheestimatedspacebetweenthetucksis4"(10cm)andthefinishedlengthoftheshadeis45"(114cm),youcanhaveten4½"(11.4cm)spaces;thisincludesthespacesbetweenthetucks,thespaceatthetopoftheshade,andthespaceforthehemdepthatthebottom.Oryoucanhavenine5"(12.7cm)spaces,includingthetopspaceandthehemdepth.

CuttingDirections

Cutamountingboard2"(5cm)longerthantheoutsidemeasurementofthewindowframeforanoutsidemountor½"(1.3cm)shorterthantheinsidemeasurementforaninsidemount.Cutastripoffabricforcoveringtheboard½"(1.3cm)widerthantheboardcircumferenceand2"(5cm)longerthantheboardlength.

Cutthedecoratorfabrictothedesiredfinishedlengthoftheshadeplustwicethehemdepthplustheprojectionofthemountingboardplus¾"(1.9cm)foreachtuck.Alsoadd2"(5cm)toallowforanyreductioninthelengththatresultsfrommultiplerowsofstitching.Aftertheshadeissewn,excesslengthistrimmedoffatthetop.

Thecutwidthoftheshadefabricis3"(7.6cm)widerthanthefinishedwidthoftheshade.Ifmorethanonefabricwidthisrequiredfortheshade,useonefullwidthforacenterpanelandseamequalpartialwidthsoneachside,matchingthepatterninthefabric.

Cuttheliningtothesamelengthasthedecoratorfabricminustwicethedepthofthehematthebottom.Thecutwidthoftheliningisequaltothefinishedwidthoftheshade;ifnecessary,seamequalpartialwidthsoneachsideofacenterpanel,asforthedecoratorfabric.

YOUWILLNEED

graphpaper

decoratorfabric

liquidfraypreventer,optional paper-backedfusibleadhesivestrip,¾"(1.9cm)wide draperylining

plasticrings,3/8"or½"(1or1.3cm) mountingboard

1"(2.5cm)angleironswithscrewsforoutsidemount toolsforinstallation flatmetalweightbar,½"(1.3cm)wide,cut½"(1.3cm)shorterthanfinishedwidthofshade staplegunandstaplesscreweyes

shadecord

whiteglue

draperypull,optional awningcleat

HowtomakeaTuckedRomanShade

Beforeyoucutthefabric,diagramtheshadeonpaper,indicatingthefinishedlengthandwidth,thenumberoftucksandspaces,andthecolumnsofrings.Choosethedistancebetweentucksaccordingtothelookyouwant;aspacingofabout4"(10cm)betweenthetucksisattractive.Thebottomtuckisabacktuckandislocatedjustabovethehem.Positiontheringsalongthebacktucks,starting1"(2.5cm)fromthesidesandspacingtheremainingcolumnsevenly8"to12"(20to30.5cm)apart.

Here’showtodothemath:Dividethedesiredspacebetweenthetucksintothefinishedlengthoftheshade;ifnecessary,roundthenumberupordowntothenearestwholenumber.Thisisthenumberofspaces,includingthespaceatthetopoftheshadeandthehemdepthatthebottom.Thendividethenumberofspacesintothefinishedlengthoftheshadetofindtheexactspacebetweenthetucksandthehemdepth.Thereisonelesstuckintheshadethantherearespaces.

Subtract2"(5cm)fromthefinishedwidthoftheshade.Dividethisadjustedwidthby12"(30.5cm)androunduptothenearestwholenumbertofindthenumberofspacesbetweencolumns—therewillbeonemorecolumnthanspaces.Dividetheadjustedwidthbythenumberofspacestofindthedistancebetweencolumns.

Cutthefabric.Seamfabricwidthstogether,ifnecessary.Stabilizethesideedgesbyapplyingliquidfraypreventer,orfinish

theedges,usingoverlockorzigzagstitches.

Pressunder1½"(3.8cm)oneachsideforthehems.Cutstripsofpaper-backedfusibleadhesivethelengthofeachside.Turnbackthehemandplacethestripsnearthecutedge.Pressoverthestripstofusethemtothehemallowance,followingthemanufacturer’sdirections.

Placetheliningovertheshadefabric,wrongsidestogether,withtheupperedgesmatching;tucktheliningunderthesidehems.Removetheprotectivepaperbackingfromthefusibleweb,andpresstofusethehemsinplace.

Pressunderanamountequaltothehemdepthattheloweredgeoftheshadefabric;thenpressunderagaintomakeadouble-foldhem.Pininplace.Stitchalongtheupperfold.

Placetheshadefacedownonaflatsurface.Onthelining,markalineforthefirstbacktuck3/8"(1cm)abovethestitchedupperfoldofthehem.

Marklinesontheliningfortheremainingbacktucks.Todeterminethedistancebetweenthemarkedlines,multiplythespacebetweentucksbytwo,andadd1½"(3.8cm)ifyouwillbemakingbothfrontandbacktucks;ifyouonlywantbacktucks,addonly¾"(1.9cm).Forexample,markthelines9½"(24cm)apartforashadewith4"(10cm)spacesbetweenthefrontandbacktucks.Markthelines8¾"(22cm)apartifyouonlywantbacktucks.Eachtucktakesup¾"(1.9cm).

Pintheliningtotheshadefabricalongthemarkedlines.Presstheshadealongthefirstmarkedline,rightsidestogether.Stitch3/8"(1cm)fromthefold.Repeatfortheremainingbacktucks.Forthefirsttuck,itmaybehelpfultouseazipperfoot,becausethestitchinglineisevenwiththetopfoldofthehem.

Foldtheshade,wrongsidestogether,aligningthefirsttwobacktucks.Fromtherightside,pressthefoldforthefirstfronttuck.Pinalongthefold.

Fold,press,andpintheremainingfronttucks.Stitchallthefronttucks3/8"(1cm)fromthefolds.

Foldtheshade,stackingthefronttucksandbacktucks.Marktheplacementfortheringsonthebacktucks,beginning1"(2.5cm)fromthesidesandspacingtheremainingcolumnsofrings,followingyourdiagram.

Attacharingateachmarkthroughbothlayersoffabric,stitchingeitherbymachineorbyhand.Bymachine,placethefoldunderthepresserfootwiththeringnexttothefold.Setthezigzagstitchatthewidestsetting;setthestitchlengthat0.Stitchoverthering,securingitwithabouteightstitches.Thenstitchinplacefortwoorthreestitches,withthestitchwidthandlengthsetat0tosecurethreads.Reinforcetheringsinthebottomrowwithextrastitchesbecausetheycarrytheweightoftheshade.

Cutthemountingboardandcoveritwithfabric(page284).Iftheshadewillbemountedoutsidethewindowframe,secureangle

ironstothebottomoftheboard,neartheendsandat45"(114cm)intervals,usingpan-headscrews.Mounttheboard(page285),centeredabovethewindowframe.Measureforthefinishedsizeoftheshade.Removethescrewsthatholdthemountingboardtotheangleirons,leavingtheangleironsonthewall.

Placetheshadefacedownonaflatsurface.Pullingthefabrictaut,measurefromtheloweredgeoftheshadetothedesiredfinishedlength;markalineontheliningfabric.Thismaychangetheupperspaceoftheshadesomewhatbutensuresthattheshadeisthecorrectlength.Markasecondlineadistanceawayequaltotheprojectionofthemountingboard.Cutoffexcessfabricalongthetopline.Pinthelayerstogether,andfinishtheupperedgestogetherbysergingorusingwidezigzagstitches.

Completetheshadeasinsteps9to15onpage299.

FLATPANELCURTAINS

Oneoftheeasiestcurtainstomakeisalsooneofthemostversatile.Flatpanelcurtainsarejustpiecesoffabricthatarehemmedonallfouredgesandhungfromdecorativerodswithclip-onorsew-onrings.That’sasbasicasyoucanget,yetthisstyleofcurtaincaneasilybeadaptedtocreateavarietyoflooks:unlinedsheersorsemi-sheersthatcoverthewindow,linedorunlinedsidepanelsthatrevealmostoralloftheglass,panelsformallystyledintouniformfolds,panelsallowedtocasuallydrapeandslouch.

Flatpanelcurtainscanbedesignedassimple,casual,sill-lengthpanels;semiformalfloor-lengthstyles,perfectforacontemporaryinterior;orspilling-onto-the-floorluxuriousdraperies.Thelookisstronglyinfluencedbythefullnessofthecurtains,whichcanbesleekandspartanatone-and-one-halftimefullness,fullandopulentatthreetimesfullness,oranywhereinbetween.Seetheexamplesforfullnessandringspacingonpage306.

Selectfirmlywovenmedium-weightfabrictocreateasimpletailoredlook,withanupperedgethatcanbestyledintogentlerollingfolds.Lightweight,slinkyfabricwillresultinarelaxed,softlook,withanupperedgethatdipsgracefullybetweenattachmentpoints.Dependingonthedesiredfullness,onefullwidthofdecoratorfabricwillcoveranarea18"to32"(46to81.5cm)wide.Ifmorewidthisdesired,seamtogetherfullorhalfwidthsoffabricforeachpanel.Youmayprefertolinethecurtainpanels,toaddbodyandpreventthedecoratorfabricfromfading.

Thepanelscanbehungfromadecorativerodwithclip-onorsew-oncurtainrings,whichareavailableinmanystyles.Choosethehardwareandmounttherodbeforeyoubeginsoyoucanaccuratelymeasureforthefinishedlength.Therodisusuallymountedabovethewindowframefarenoughthatthetopofthecurtainwillcoverthewood.Beforeyoudrillanyholes,itisagoodideatomockupasmallsampletodeterminetheexactlocationofthecurtaintopinrelationtotherod;thetypeofringusedalsoaffectsthemeasurement.

CuttingDirections

Thecutlengthofthefabricisequaltothefinishedlengthofthecurtainplusthelowerhemallowance(seechartonpage307)plus3"(7.5cm)fortheupperhem.

Thecutwidthofthefabricisequaltotheamountofspaceyouwanttocovermultipliedbythedesiredfullness(seeexamplesonpage314).Dividethisamountbythewidthofthefabricandroundupordowntothenearestwholeorhalfwidth,tofindthenumberoffabricwidthsyouneed.Usefullorhalfwidthsoffabricforeachcurtainpanel.

Multiplythecutlengthbythetotalnumberofwidthsneededtodeterminetheamountoffabrictobuy.Buyanextrapatternrepeatperfabricwidthformatchingpatterns(page222).

Forlinedcurtains,cuttheliningfabric5"(13cm)shorterthanthedecoratorfabricforfloor-lengthcurtains;3"(7.5cm)shorterthanthedecoratorfabricforsill-orapron-lengthcurtains;thesamelengthasthedecoratorfabricforcurtainsthatpuddleonthefloor.Thecutwidthoftheliningisthesameasthedecoratorfabric.

YOUWILLNEED

decorativecurtainrod

toolsandhardwareforinstallation

decoratorfabric

draperyliningforlinedcurtains

draperyweightsforfloor-lengthcurtains

clip-onorsew-onrings

FullnessandSpacingAlternatives

Differentfabricfullnessesandsamespacingbetweenhooks.

Foraflatterpanel,one-and-one-halftimesfullnessisused(left);

thismeansthewidthofthecurtainmeasuresone-and-one-halftimesthelengthoftherod.Forafullerpanel,usetwotimesfullness(center);

ortwo-and-one-halftimesfullness(right).Inthesephotos,allringsarespaced15½"(39cm)apart.

Differentspacingbetweenringsandsamefabricfullness.

Foracontrolledlookalongthetopofthecurtain,usemoreringsandspacethemclosetogether(left).

Forasofterlook,usefewerringswithmorespacebetweenthem.

Fordramaticswoopsinthefabric,useaminimumofrings,spacedevenfartherapart.Allofthesecurtainpanelshavetwotimesfullness.

HowtoMakeUnlinedFlatPanelCurtains

Seamthefabricwidthstogether,ifnecessary,foreachcurtainpanel.Ifhalfwidthsareneeded,addthematthesidesofthepanels.Finishtheseamstogether,andpressthemtowardthesideofthepanel.

Pressundertheloweredgethefullamountofthehemallowance.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifyouaremakingfloor-lengthcurtainswithmorethanonefabricwidth,tackadraperyweighttotheupperlayeroffabricatthebaseofeachseam,withthebottomoftheweightneartheinnerfold.

Refoldtheloweredge,formingadouble-foldhem.Pin.Stitch,usingablindstitchforaninvisiblehemorastraightstitchforavisiblehem.

Pressunder3"(7.5cm)ononeside.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifyouaremakingfloor-lengthcurtains,insertadraperyweightbetweenthelayersofthelowerhem,andtackitinplace.Refoldtheedge,forminga1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehem.Stitch,usingablindstitch.Repeatforeachsideofeachpanel.

Pressundera1½"(3.8cm)double-foldhemintheupperedge.Stitchtheupperhem.

Marktheplacementforsew-onorclip-onringsalongthetophem,placingtheendmarks¾"(2cm)fromthesides.Spacetheremainingmarksevenly6"to10"(15to25.5cm)apart.Trydifferentspacing

patterns,usingsafetypins,tohelpyoudecide.Seetheexamplesopposite.Attacharingateachmark.

Slidetheringsontothedraperyrod,andmounttherodonthebrackets.

HemAllowances

Makinglinedflatpanelcurtains

Followsteps1to3forunlinedflatpanelcurtainsatleft.Repeatforthelining,butmakea2"(5cm)double-foldheminthelining.

Placethecurtainpanelandliningpanelwrongsidestogether,matchingtherawedgesatthesidesandupperedge;pin.Theliningpanelwillbe1"(2.5cm)shorterthanthecurtainpanel.Completethecurtainasinsteps4to7(atleft),handlingthedecoratorfabricandliningasonefabric.

Makingpuddledcurtains

Followstep1atleftforbothdecoratorfabricandlining.Placethelininganddecoratorfabricwrongsidestogether,matchingtherawedges.Completesteps2to7,treatingbothfabricsasone.

TABCURTAINS

Theeyeisdrawnupwardwhenawindowisdressedwithtabcurtains.Narrowstrapsthatlooportieoveradecorativerodgivethistreatmenttheno-frillappealofblendingformwithfunction.Thetabscanloop,tie,orbebuttoned.

Tabcurtainsarenotintendedtobeopenedandclosedrepeatedly,becausethefrictionwouldputtoomuchstrainonthetabs.Therefore,thiscurtainstyleisoftendesignedastwostationarypanelsatthesidesofawindow.Foranarrowwindow,onepanelcancovertheentirewidthatthetopandbedrawntoonesidetoletlightin.Thetabscanbeacontinuousloop,twostrapsthataretiedovertherod,orasinglestrapattachedatoneendandseeminglybuttonedtothecurtainatthefront(toavoidstrainonthebuttons,thetabsaresewninplaceandthebuttonsarejustdecorative).Eachfabricwidthhasfiveorsixevenlyspacedtabs.

Tabcurtainscanbelinedorunlined,dependingonthefabricselectionandthedegreeoflightcontrolandprivacyrequired.Medium-weightdecoratorfabricsoffertheneededstrengthforthetabsandwillkeeptheupperedgeofthecurtaininacontrolledline.Ifasoftdrapebetweentabsisdesired,choosealighterweight,drapablefabricforthecurtain.

Itiswisetomockupthetreatmentandhangtherodbeforecuttingforaccuratelengthmeasurements(seethestepsopposite).Mounttherodhighenoughsothetopofthewindowframewillnotbevisibleabovethecurtain.

Measuring

Determinethetablengthbywrappingaclothtapemeasureovertherodthedesireddistancetothetopofthecurtain.Add1"(2.5cm)forseamallowancesand2¾"(7cm)moreforbuttontabs.Fortietabs,mockupatabwithwideribbonorstripsoffabricinthestyleofknotyouwanttouse.Thenmeasurethelengthofeachpieceandadd1"(2.5cm)forendseams.

Measurethedistancefromtheundersideoftherodtothetopofthecurtain.Mounttherodadistanceabovethewindowequaltothisdistanceplus1"(2.5cm).Thisensuresthatthewindowframewillnotshowabovethecurtain.

CuttingDirections

Thecutlengthofeachcurtainpanelisequaltothefinishedlengthplusthebottomhemallowance(seechartonpage307)plus3"(7.5cm).

Thecutwidthofthefabricisequaltotheamountofspaceyouwanttocovermultipliedbytwo.Dividethisamountbythewidthofthefabricandroundupordowntothenearestwholeorhalfwidth,todeterminethenumberoffabricwidthsyouneed.Usefullorhalfwidthsoffabricforeachcurtainpanel.

Forlinedtabcurtains,thecutlengthoftheliningisequaltothefinishedlengthofthecurtainplus3½"(9cm).Thecutwidthisthesameasforthedecoratorfabric.

Youwillneedfivetabsforthefirstfullwidthplusfourtabsforeachadditionalfullwidthandtwotabsforeachadditionalhalfwidthineachcurtainpanel.Forlooporbuttontabs1½"(3.8cm)wide,cuta4"(10cm)stripoffabricforeachtab,usingthelengthmeasurementfoundatleft.Fortietabs1"(2.5cm)wide,cuttwo2½"(6.5cm)stripsforeachtab,usingthelengthmeasurementfoundatleft.

Multiplythecutlengthbythenumberoffabricwidthsneededtodeterminethetotalamountrequiredforthecurtains.Forthetabs,add12"(30.5cm)foreverytwofabricwidthsneededtodeterminethetotallengthtobuy.

YOUWILLNEED

decorativecurtainrod

toolsandhardwareforinstallation

decoratorfabric

draperyliningforlinedcurtains

draperyweightsforfloor-lengthcurtains

buttonsorcoveredbuttonkitsforbuttontabcurtains

MakingUnlinedLoopTabCurtains

Seamthefabricwidthstogetherasnecessaryforeachcurtainpanel,addinganyhalfwidthsatthereturnendsofthepanels.Finishtheseamallowancestogether,andpressthemtowardthesideofthepanel.

Pressundertheloweredge8"(20.5cm)forthehem.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifthepanelhasmorethanonefabricwidth,tackadraperyweighttotheupperlayeroffabricatthebaseofeachseam,withthebottomoftheweightneartheinnerfold.

Refoldtheloweredge,forminga4"(10cm)double-foldhem,encasingtheweightsattheseams.Pin.Stitch,usingablindstitchforaninvisiblehemorastraightstitchforavisiblehem.

Pressunder½"(1.3cm)ontheupperedge.Thenfold2"(5cm)totherightside,formingafacing.Attheoutercorners,stitchthefacingtothecurtain3"(7.5cm)fromtheedges(arrow).Trimthefacingtowithin¼"(6mm)ofthestitching;trimoffthetop1"(2.5cm)ofthesidehemallowance.

Foldeachtabinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamalongthecutedge.

Turnthetabsrightsideout.Centertheseaminthebackofeachtab;press.

Marktheplacementforthetabs,evenlyspacedalongtheupperhemofthecurtain,withthefirstandlasttabsevenwiththeouteredges.Fold

thetabsinhalfandslidethemunderthefacingwiththerawedgesinthefold;pin.Stitchacrossthecurtaintop,½"(1.3cm)fromthefold.

Pressunder1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehems.Turnthefacingtothecurtainback;press.Stitchthesidehems,encasingadraperyweightinthehemlayersatthelowercornersoffloor-lengthcurtains.Attheuppercorners,thehemwilldisappearunderthefacing.Stitchalongthelowerfoldofthefacing.

Hangthecurtainfromtherod.Spacethetabsevenlyontherod.Trainthecurtaintofallinsoftfolds,withthefabricatthetabsrollingforwardandthefabricbetweenthetabsrollingtowardthewindow.

MakingButtonTabCurtains

Followsteps1to5opposite.Centertheseaminthebackofthetab;press,avoidingsharpcreasesontheouteredges.Markapoint¼"(6mm)fromtheloweredgeontheseam;markpoints1¼"(3.2cm)fromtheloweredgeontheouterfolds.

Sewfromthemarkontheouterfoldtothemarkontheseam;pivot,andstitchtothemarkontheoppositefold,formingthepointofthetab.Trimtheseamto¼"(6mm).Turnthetabrightsideout;press.

Followstep7,butsecureonlytheopenendofthetabsunderthefacing,withtheseamagainsttherightsideofthecurtain.

Finishthecurtainsasinstep8.Turnthetabsdownovertheupperedgeofthecurtain,aligningtheouterpointsofthetabstothelowerstitchingline;pin.Tackthetabssecurelywiththesewingmachine.Sewbuttonsoverthestitches.Hangthecurtainsasinstep9.

MakingLinedTabCurtains

Followsteps1to3forunlinedtabcurtainsopposite.Repeatforthelining,butmakea2"(5cm)double-foldhemintheliningandomitdraperyweightsinthelining.

Placethecurtainpanelandliningpanelwrongsidestogether,matchingtherawedgesatthesides.Theupperedgeoftheliningwillbe2½"(6.5cm)belowtheupperedgeofthecurtainpanel.Atthebottom,theliningpanelwillbe1"(2.5cm)shorterthanthecurtainpanel.Pin.

Completethecurtainasonpage318,steps4to9,handlingthedecoratorfabricandliningasonefabric.

MakingTieTabCurtains

Followsteps1to4forlooptabcurtains.Foldeachtabinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitcha¼"(6mm)seamalongthecutedgeandoneend.Turnthetabsrightsideoutandpress.

Followstep7,butstacktwotabswithseamsonoppositesides,securingonlytheopenendsofthetabsunderthefacing.

Finishthecurtainsasinstep8.Hangthecurtainsasinstep9,tyingthetabsovertherod.

CLASSICROD-POCKETCURTAINS

Rod-pocketcurtainsareoftenchosenforastationarywindowtreatmentthatisstylishandeasytosew.Withamplefullnessandadeep,rufflyheading,classicrod-pocketcurtainstakeonafeminine,romanticappearance.Withlessfullnessandashorterheading,thelookbecomesmoretailoredandmodern.Eitherway,thefluidlinesandgatheredfabricsoftenthehardsurfacesandedgesofthewindow.

Rod-pocketcurtainshaveaheadingandrodpocket.Theheadingistheportionatthetopofarod-pocketcurtainthatformsarufflewhenthecurtainisontherod.Thedepthoftheheadingisthedistancefromthetopofthecurtaintothetopstitchinglineoftherodpocket.Therodpocketisthe“tunnel”wheretherodorpoleisinserted;stitchinglinesatthetopandbottomoftherodpocketkeeptherodinplace.Todeterminethedepthoftherodpocket,measurearoundthewidestpartoftherodorpole;add½"(1.3cm)easetothismeasurement,anddividebytwo.

Todesignyourrod-pocketcurtains,firstdecidehowyouwillhangthem.Severaltypesofrodscanbeused,includingflatrodsinwidthsof1",2½",and4½"(2.5,6.5,and11.5cm).Woodandmetalpolesetswithelbowsorfinialscanalsobeusedandareavailableinseveraldiameters.Whenacurtainrodorpolesetwithelbowsisused,sidesofthecurtainpanelswraptothewall.Thisportioniscalledthereturn.Forcurtainsmountedonpoleswithfinials,returnscanbecreatedbymakinganopeninginthefrontoftherodpocketforinsertingthepole.

Rod-pocketcurtainsworkwellwithavarietyoffabrics.Unlinedrod-pocketcurtainscanbemadefromsheersorlaces,creatingalightweighttreatmentthatallowsfilteredlighttoentertheroom.Forcurtainsmadefrommedium-weightdecoratorfabrics,liningcanbeusedtomakethecurtainsmoredurableandopaque,addextrabody,andsupportthesidehemsandheading.Forsheerfabrics,allowtwo-and-one-halftothreetimesthelengthoftherodforfullness;forheavierfabrics,allowtwototwo-and-one-halftimes.

Beforecuttingthefabric,decidewherethewindowtreatmentshouldbepositionedandmountthecurtainrodorpole.Bracketsareusuallymountedonthewalljustoutsidethewindowframesothebottomoftherodisevenwiththetopoftheframe.Measurefromtheloweredgeoftherodtowhereyouwanttheloweredgeofthecurtain.Todeterminethefinishedlengthofthecurtain,addthedesireddepthoftheheadingandrodpockettothismeasurement.Thisisthefinishedlengthofthecurtainpanel.

CuttingDirections

Thecutlengthofthefabricisequaltothefinishedlengthofthecurtainplusthelowerhemallowance(seechartonpage315)plusthedepthoftheheadingandtherodpocketplus½"(1.3cm)forturn-underattheupperedge.

Thecutwidthofthefabricisequaltotheamountofspaceyouwanttocover(includingreturns)multipliedbythedesiredfullness.Dividethisamountbythewidthofthefabricandroundupordowntothenearestwholeorhalfwidth,tofindthenumberoffabricwidthsyouneed.Usefullorhalfwidthsoffabricforeachcurtainpanel.

Multiplythecutlengthbythetotalnumberofwidthsneededtodeterminetheamountoffabrictobuy.Buyanextrapatternrepeatperfabricwidthformatchingpatterns(page222).

Forlinedcurtains,cuttheliningfabric5"(12.7cm)shorterthanthedecoratorfabric.Thecutwidthoftheliningisthesameasthedecoratorfabric.

YOUWILLNEED

standardcurtainrodorpolesetwithfinialsorelbows

toolsandhardwareforinstallation

decoratorfabric

draperyliningforlinedcurtains

draperyweightsforfloor-lengthcurtains

fusibleinterfacing

MakingUnlinedRod-PocketCurtains

Seamthefabricwidthstogether,ifnecessary,foreachcurtainpanel.Ifhalfwidthsareneeded,addthematthesidesofthepanels.Finishtheseamallowancestogether,andpressthemtowardthesideofthepanel.

Pressundertheloweredgethefullamountofthehemallowance.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifyouaremakingfloor-lengthcurtainswithmorethanonefabricwidth,tackadraperyweighttotheupperlayeroffabricatthebaseofeachseam,withthebottomoftheweightneartheinnerfold.

Refoldtheloweredge,formingadouble-foldhem,encasingtheweightsattheseams.Pin.Stitch,usingablindstitchforaninvisiblehemorastraightstitchforavisiblehem.

Pressunder3"(7.5cm)ononeside.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Insertadraperyweightbetweenthelayersofthelowerhem,andtackitinplace.Refoldtheedge,forminga1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehem.Stitch,usingablindstitch.Repeatforeachsideofeachcurtainpanel.

Pressunder½"(1.3cm)ontheupperedge.Thenpressunderanamountequaltotherod-pocketdepthplustheheadingdepth.Ifthecurtainwillbemountedonapolewithelbowreturns,omitsteps6to8.

Mounttherodonawooden,keyhole,orelbowbracket.Measurethe

distancefromthewalltothecenterofthepole.

Unfoldtheupperedgeofthecurtainonthereturnsideofthepanel.Ontherightsideofthefabric,measurefromthesideofthecurtainadistanceequaltothemeasurementinstep6;markatthecenteroftherodpocket.Ifthecurtainwillbemountedonarodwithkeyholebrackets,omitstep8.

Cuta1"(2.5cm)stripoffusibleinterfacing,1"(2.5cm)longerthanthedepthoftherodpocket.Fusethestriptothewrongsideofthecurtainpanel,centeringitdirectlyunderthemarkmadeinstep7.Ontherightsideofthepanel,stitchabuttonholeatthemark,fromthetoptothebottomoftherodpocket.Refoldtheupperedgeofthepanelalongthepressedlinesandpin.

Stitchclosetothefirstfold;stitchagainatthedepthoftheheading,usingtapeonthebedofthesewingmachineasastitchingguide.

MakingLinedRod-PocketCurtains

Followsteps1to3forunlinedrod-pocketcurtainsopposite.Repeatforthelining,butmakea2"(5cm)double-foldhemintheliningandomitdraperyweightsinthelining.

Placethecurtainpanelandliningpanelwrongsidestogether,matchingtherawedgesatthesidesandupperedge;pin.Atthebottom,theliningpanelwillbe1"(2.5cm)shorterthanthecurtainpanel.Completethecurtainasinsteps4to9,handlingthedecoratorfabricandliningasonefabric.

InstallingRod-pocketCurtains

PolewithwoodenbracketsandfinialsRemovethefinials;insertthepoleintotherodpocketwithendsofthepoleextendingthroughthebuttonholes.Reattachthefinials;mountthepole.Securethereturntothewoodenbracket,usingself-adhesivehookandlooptape.

PolewithkeyholebracketandfinialsSlitcenteroftherodpocketatthepointmarkedinstep7opposite.Insertthepoleintotherodpocket.Pullthereturnovertheendofpole,aligningslittofinialscrewhole;attachfinialsthroughslits,andmountthepole.Attachapin-onringtotheinneredgeofthereturn,andsecuretoacuphookortenterhookinwall.

PolewithelbowsInsertthepolethroughtherodpocket;pullthecurtainbacktoexposesmallscrews.Mountthepoleonbrackets.Slidethecurtainoverbrackets.

PINCH-PLEATEDDRAPERIES

Classicpleateddraperiesaretheultimatewindowtreatmentforversatilityandstyle.Installedontraverserods,theyeasilyopentorevealthefullwindowview.Whenclosed,theyofferprivacy,lightcontrol,andeveninsulation.Theycanalsobemadeasstationarydraperies.Traditionalthreefoldpinchpleatswillcreateuniform,gracefulfolds.

Theinstructionsthatfollowareforapairofdraperypanelsmountedonatwo-way-drawtraverserod.Whendesigningthetreatment,allowforthestackingspace(page273)atthesidesofthewindowsothedraperieswillclearthewindowwhentheyareopen.Theactualstackingspacevaries,dependingontheweightofthefabric,thefullnessofthedraperies,andwhetherornottheyarelined,butisestimatedatone-thirdthewidthofthewindows;allowforone-halfofthestackingspaceoneachsideofthewindow.

Awiderangeofdecoratorfabricscanbeused,includingsheers,casements,semi-sheers,andmedium-weightfabricsinbothprintsandsolids.Two-and-one-halftimesfullnessisusedformostdraperies,butforsheers,threetimesfullnesscanbeused.Forlacedraperies,usetwo-and-one-halftimesfullnesssothepatternofthelaceisnoticeableinthefinisheddraperies.

Afteryoumeasurethewindowanddeterminethestackingspace,purchasetherodandmountitonthewallaboveandtotheoutsideofthewindowframe.Ifthedraperieswillhangfromaconventionaltraverserod,measureforthefinishedlengthfromthetopoftherodto

whereyouwanttheloweredgeofthedraperies;thenadd½"(1.3cm)sothedraperieswillextendabovetherod.Ifthedraperieswillhangfromadecorativerod,measurefromthebottomoftherodtothedesiredfinishedlength.Ifthedraperieswillhangfromapolesetwithrings,measurefromthepinholesintheringstothedesiredfinishedlength.

CuttingDirections

Usethefabricworksheetonpage319tofindthenecessarymeasurements.Severalwidthsoffabricareoftenrequired.Cutthenumberoffabricwidthsyouneedtothecalculatedcutlengthofthedraperies.

YOUWILLNEED

conventionalordecorativetraverserod

toolsandhardwareforinstallation

decoratorfabric

draperyweights

draperyliningforlinedcurtains

buckram,4"(10cm)wide

draperyhooks

MakingUnlinedPinch-PleatedDraperies

Seamthefabricwidthstogetherasnecessary.Ifhalfwidthsareneeded,addthematthesidesofthepanels.Finishtheseamstogether,andpressthemtowardthesideofthepanel.

Pressundertheloweredge8"(20.5cm)forthehem.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifthepanelhasmorethanonefabricwidth,tackadraperyweighttotheupperlayeroffabricatthebaseofeachseam,withthebottomoftheweightneartheinnerfold.

Refoldtheloweredge,forminga4"(10cm)double-foldhem,encasingtheweightsattheseams.Pin.Stitch,usingablindstitchforaninvisiblehemorastraightstitchforavisiblehem.

Pressundertheupperedge8"(20.5cm).Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Cutbuckramthewidthofeachdraperypanel.Slipthebuckramunderthefirstfold,andthenrefoldthetop,encasingthebuckram.Pininplace.

Pressunder3"(7.5cm)ononeside.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Insertadraperyweightbetweenthelayersofthelowerhem,andtackitinplace.Refoldtheedge,forminga1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehem.Stitch.Repeatforeachsideofeachcurtainpanel.

Determinethenumberandsizeofpleatsandspacesbetweenthem

byworkingthroughthechartatright.Therecommendedamountoffabricforeachpleatis4"to6"(10to15cm).Therecommendedspacebetweenpleatsis3½"to4"(9to10cm).Ifthecalculationfromtheworksheetsresultsinpleatsorspacesthataregreaterthantheamountrecommended,addonemorepleatandspace.Ifthecalculationresultsinpleatsorspacessmallerthantheamountrecommended,subtractonepleatandspace.

Cutbuckramtemplatesinsizestomatchthedeterminedpleatsandspaces;cutfiveofeachfor48"(122cm)fabricorsixofeachfor54"(137cm)fabric.Marktheoverlapandreturnontherightsideofonepanel,usingchalk.Arrangethetemplatesonthefirstfabricwidth,withthefirstpleatstartingattheoverlaplineandthelastpleatendingattheseamline.Therewillbeonelessspace.Adjustthepleatsizestoarrangethespacesevenly;spacesmustremainuniform.Marktheheadingevenwiththeouteredgesofthespacetemplates.

Arrangethetemplatesonthesecondfabricwidthfromtheoverlap,withthefirstspacestartingatthefirstseamlinefromtheoverlapandthelastpleatendingatthenextseamline;usethesamenumberofpleatsasspaces.Repeatforeachpanel.(Thelastpleatendsatthereturnmarkinthelastfabricwidth.)Adjustthepleatsasnecessary;markthespaces.Ifthereturnendofthepanelhasahalfwidthoffabric,planfortwopleatsifthefabricis48"(122cm)wideorforthreepleatsifthefabricis54"(137cm)wide.Transferthemarkingstotheoppositepanelinmirror-imageplacement.

Foldeachpleatbybringingthepleatlinestogether;pin.Creasethe

buckramonthefold.

Stitchonthepleatlinefromthetopoftheheadingtotheloweredgeofthebuckram;backstitchtosecure.Repeatforeachpleatineachpanel.

Checkthefinishedwidthofthepanelalongtheheading.Adjustthesizeofafewpleatsifnecessarytoadjustthewidthofthepanel.

Todivideeachstitchedpleatintothreeevenpleats,graspthecentercreaseandpushitdowntowardthestitchingline,forcingthesidestospreadout.Formthefabricintothreeevenpleatsandpresscreasesinthebuckramwithyourfingers.

Bar-tackpleatsbymachinejustabovetheloweredgeofthebuckram;ortackpleatsbyhand,usingastabstitchandheavy-dutythimble.

HangingandDressingtheDraperies

Insertdraperyhooks,withonehookateachpleatandonehooknear

eachendofthepanel.Onaconventionaltraverserod ,thetopofthehookis1¾"(4.5cm)fromtheupperedgeoftheoverdraperyor1¼"(3.2cm)fromtheupperedgeoftheunderdrapery.Onadecorator

traverserod ,thetopofthehookis¾"to1"(2to2.5cm)fromthe

upperedge.Onapolesetwithrings ,thetopofthehookis¼"(6mm)fromtheupperedge.(Shownontraverserodsforclarity.)Creasethebuckrammidwaybetweeneachpleat;folditforwardifaconventionaltraverserodisbeingused,orfoldittothebackifadecorativetraverserodisbeingused.Thisisoftenreferredtoas“cracking”thebuckram.Aftercrackingthebuckram,pressthedraperies,usingawarm,dryiron.

Hangtheendhookatthereturnintheholeonthesideofthe

bracket .Hangthehookofthefirstpleatintheholeatthefront

cornerofthebracket .

Hangthehooksformiddlepleatsontheslides;removeanyslidesthatarenotused.Hangthehookforthelastpleatinthefirstholeofthemasterslide.Hangtheendhookontheoverlapofthedraperyintheendholeofthemasterslide.Pinchthehooksonthemasterslidesclosedtokeepthemfromcatchingwhenthedraperiesaredrawn;also,pullthefrontmasterslideslightlyforward,ifnecessary.

Openthedraperiescompletelyintothestackedposition.Checktheheadingtobesurethebuckramisfoldedasitwascrackedinstep2.

Startingattheheading,guidethepleatsintoevenlyspacedsoftfoldsofequaldepth;followthegrainlineofthefabrictokeepthepleatsperpendiculartothefloor.

Stapleanarrowstripofmatchingfabricormuslinaroundthedraperypanel,midwaybetweentheheadingandhem,toholdthepleatsinplace.Avoidpullingthefabrictootightlyoryouwillcreateunwantedwrinkles.

Stapleasecondstripoffabricatthehemline.Checktoseethatthedraperieshangstraightdownfromtherod.Leavethedraperiesinthispositionfortwoweekstosetthepleats.Inhumidconditions,oneweekmaybesufficient.

MakingLinedPleatedDraperies

Preparethedraperypanelsasinsteps1to3onpage318.Repeatfortheliningpanels,making2"(5cm)double-foldlowerhemsandomittingweights.

Placethedraperypanelonalargeflatsurface.Laytheliningpanelontopofthedraperypanel,wrongsidestogether,withtheloweredgeofthelining1"(2.5cm)abovetheloweredgeofthedraperypanel;rawedgesshouldbeevenatthesides.

Marktheliningpanel8"(20.5cm)fromtheupperedgeofthedraperypanel.Trimonthemarkedline.Thiswillbeevenwiththetopfoldoftheheading.

Finishthedraperiesasinsteps4to13onpages318to321,treatingthedecoratorfabricandliningasone.Theliningwillbecaughtinthestitchesofthepleatsandinthesidehems.

PleatAlternatives

Youcanchangethelookofpleateddraperieswithanyofthesepleatvariations.Followthesamedirectionsuptothepointofmakingthepleats.Thenformthepleatsinoneofthesestyles.

GobletPleats

Tackthepleatsjustabovetheloweredgeofthebuckram.Formeachpleatintoaroundedgobletshape.Insertwaddedtissuepaperintothepleatstohelpthemretaintheirshape.

FanPleats

Tackthepleatstogetherattheupperedgeofthedraperyandletthemfanoutfromthetop.

InvertedPinchPleats

Foldthepleatstothebackinsteadofthefront,andtackthemtogether.Thefrontoftheheadingwillhaveaflatappearance.

CartridgePleats

Planforonemorepleatperfabricwidthandhalfwidth.Donotcreasethebuckramwhenyoustitchthepleats,butallowthemtoformaroundtubeshape.Toholdtheshapeofthecartridges,insertasectionoffoampipeinsulationintoeachpleat.

BedandBath

FLANGEDPILLOWSHAMS

Flangedshamstransformordinarybedpillowsintocustomdesignerpillows.Theycanbemadetofitstandard-size,queen-size,orking-sizepillows.Anoverlappingclosureinthecenterofthebackmakesiteasytoinsertandremovethepillow.Selectdecoratorfabrictocoordinatewithyourduvetorbedspread.

CuttingDirections

Cutashamfrontandtwoshambackpiecesaccordingtothemeasurementsgiveninthechartonpage326.

YOUWILLNEED

15/8yd.(1.5m)decoratorfabricforeachpillowsham

thread

maskingtape

HowtoSewaPillowSham

Press½"(1.3cm)double-foldhemsononelongedgeofeachbackpiece(thesewillbethevertical,overlappingedges).Stitchthehems.

Placetheshambackpiecesovertheshamfront,rightsidestogether,aligningthecutedgesandoverlappingthebackhemmededges3"(7.5cm).Pinthelayerstogetheraroundtheouteredge.

Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromtheedge,pivotingatthecorners.Trimtheseamallowancesdiagonallyatthefourcornerstoremoveexcessbulk.

Insertaheavycardboardtubeoraseamrollintotheopeningandplaceitundertheseam.Presstheseamallowancesopen,applyinglightpressurewiththetipoftheirondownthecreaseoftheseam.

Turnthepillowshamrightsideout,reachinginthroughtheoverlaptopullouteachcorner.Insertapointturnerorsimilartoolintothesham,gentlypushingthepointsouttoformperfectcorners.

Presstheseamededges.Withthefrontfacingup,pinthelayerstogetherabout3"(7.5cm)fromthefoursides.Marksmalldots3"(7.5cm)fromthecornersoftheshamstohelpyouknowwhentopivot.

Placeapieceofmaskingtapeonthebedofyourmachine3"(7.5cm)totherightoftheneedle,paralleltotheseamallowanceguide.Stitchthepillowshamflange,guidingtheseamededgealongthetapeandpivotingateachcorner.

DUVETCOVER

Aduvetcoverkeepsaduvetorcomfortercleanandiseasilyremovedforlaundering.Thesewingstepsarefairlysimple;thedifficultycomesinhandlinglargeexpansesoffabric.Setupacardtablenexttoyoursewingmachinestationtohelpwiththetask.Duvetcoversusuallyrequiretwoormorewidthsoffabricsewntogetherforthefrontandback:onefullwidthdownthecenterwithequalpartialwidthsalongthesides.Choosealightweight,firmlywoven,washablefabric.

HowtoSewaDuvetCover

Measureyourduvetorcomfortertodeterminethefinishedsizeofthecover.Usetheformulaonpage330todeterminethecutlengthandcutwidthofthepiecesandtheamountoffabricyouwillneed.Weareusingnumbersforaqueen-sizeduvetcover;yoursmaybedifferent.

Measureandmarkthelocationofeachcutalongtheselvage.Cutthepieces,followingthecuttingguidelines(page221).Ifyoudonothavetomatchapattern(page222),cutawaytheselvages.Cutonefrontandonebackpieceinhalflengthwise.

YOUWILLNEED

fabricfortopandundersideofduvetcover,amountdeterminedinstep1

thread

buttons,½"to5/8"(1.3to1.5cm)diameter

twilltape

foursmallplasticrings

Pinahalf-widthpiecetothefull-widthfrontpiece,rightsidestogether,alongthelengthwiseedges.Matchthepattern,ifnecessary,followingtheguidelinesonpage222.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.Repeatfortheotherside.Finishtheseamallowancesandpressthemopen.

Measureandcuttheduvetfronttotheexactcutwidth,asdeterminedinthechart.Besuretotrimequalamountsfromeachside.

Repeatsteps3and4fortheduvetcoverback.Markaline12"(30.5cm)fromtheloweredgeoftheback.Cutonthemarkedline.

Pressa1½"(3.8cm)double-foldhemintheupperedgeofthesmallbackpiece.Stitchthehem.

Pressandstitch1½"(3.8cm)double-foldhemontheloweredgeofthelargebackpiece.Marktheplacementandlengthforbuttonholesonthehemofthelargebackpiece,centeredbetweenthefoldandstitchingline.Placeoutermarks6"(15cm)fromeachsideandtheothersspacedabout10"to12"(25.5to30.5cm)apart.Runthemarksperpendiculartothehemedge.

Sewbuttonholesoverthemarkedlines.Applyliquidfraypreventertothebuttonholes;allowtodryandthencutthebuttonholesopen.

Overlapthehemlinesofthebackpieces1½"(3.8cm),andpinthemtogetherattheouteredges.Marktheplacementforthebuttonsonthehemlineofthesmallbackpiece.Sewbuttonsoverthemarks.

Buttonthebackpiecestogether.Placetheduvetcoverbackoverthefront,rightsidestogether,aligningtheouteredges.Pinthelayers

together.Folda20"(51cm)pieceoftwilltapeinhalf.Alignthefoldededgetotheouteredgeoftheduvetcover½"(1.3cm)fromthecorner,andpininplace.Repeatateachcorner.

Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamaroundtheedgeoftheduvetcover,pivotingateachcornerandcatchingthefoldedendofthetwilltapeinthestitching.Trimtheseamallowancesdiagonallyatthefourcornerstoremoveexcessbulk.Avoidcuttingthroughthetwilltape.

Unbuttontheopening.Insertaheavycardboardtubeoraseamrollintotheopeningandplaceitundertheseam.Presstheseamallowancesopen,applyinglightpressurewiththetipoftheirondownthecreaseoftheseam.

Stitchaplasticringateachcornerofyourduvetorcomforter.Spreadtheduvetorcomforteroutoveryournewduvetcoverandtiethetwilltapetotheringsateachcorner.Nowturntheduvetcoverrightsideout,encasingtheduvetorcomforterinside.

BEDSKIRTS

Bedskirtshidetheboxspringsandlegsofabedwhenacomforterorduvetisusedforthetopcover.Gatheredskirtsgiveasofteffect;pleatedskirtsaremoretailored.Bothstylescoverthesidesandfootofthebed,andcanbemadewithsplitcorners(toaccommodatebedpostsandfootboards)orcontinuouscorners(forbedswithoutfootboards).

Gatheredskirtscanbemadewithonelayerortwo.Whenmakingatwo-layeredskirt,preparethepanelsseparatelyandthengatherthemtogetherasonepiece.Theweightofthefabricandthedesiredlookwilldeterminethefullnessoftheskirt.Allowuptothreetimesfullnessforverylightweight,semi-sheerfabric,ifyouwantafulllook.Doublefullnessworksbetterformedium-weightfabric.

YOUWILLNEED

decoratorfabric

fittedsheet

or

muslin,broadcloth,orflatsheetfordeck

Pleatedskirtshaveboxpleatsatthefootcornersandcentersofeachside.Forking-sizebeds,youmayalsowanttoaddapleatinthecenterofthefoot.Thedirectionsthatfollowallowfor6"(15cm)pleats.Thereisa1"(2.5cm)double-foldhemattheloweredgeandfrontedges.

Bedskirtsyoubuyinastoreareattachedtoaplainfabricdeckthatslidesbetweenthemattressandboxspring.Thedirectionsforthepleatedskirtincorporateadeck,whichcanbemadefrommuslin,broadcloth,oraflatsheet.Whenyoumakeyourownbedskirt,youcansewittoafittedsheet,whichkeepstheskirtfromshiftingoutofposition.Thedirectionsforthegatheredskirtshowhowtoattachittoafittedsheet.Bothstylescanbemadeeitherway.

CuttingDirections

Forgathereddustrufflelength,cuttwopieceseachthelengthoftheboxspringtimesthedesiredfullness,plus4"(10cm)for1"(2.5cm)double-foldsidehems.Cutonepiecethewidthoftheboxspringtimesthedesiredfullness,plus4"(10cm)for1"(2.5cm)double-foldhems.Theskirtdepthisequaltothedistancefromthetopoftheboxspringtothefloorplus4"(10cm).

Forpleatedskirt,cutthedeck1"(2.5cm)widerand1"(2.5cm)longerthantheboxspring.Cutbedskirtonlengthwisegrainoffabric.Cuttwopiecesthelengthoftheboxspringplus18"(46cm).Cutonepiecethewidthoftheboxspringplus18"(46cm).Bedskirtdepthequalsdistancefromtopofboxspringtofloorminus¼"(6mm),plus2½"(6.5cm)fortheseamandhem.

HowtoSewaGatheredSkirtwithOpenCorners

Stitch1"(2.5cm)double-foldhemalongloweredgesofthethreepieces,thenturnunderandstitch1"(2.5cm)double-foldhemonbothendsofeachpiece.

Gather1"(2.5cm)fromupperedgewithrufflerattachment ,two-stringshirringtape ,tworowsofbasting ,orzigzagstitchingoveracord .

Placefittedsheetonboxspring.Onsheet,markupperedgeofboxspring.Markevery12"(30.5cm)alongthislineformatchingtoskirt.Markupperedgeofskirtevery24"(61cm)ifusingdoublefullness;every36"(91.5cm)fortriplefullness.

Pinrightsidesofskirtpiecesalongthreesidesofsheet,rawedgesonmarkedlineandhemsoverlappingatcorners.Matchmarkingsonskirtpiecestomarkingsonsheet.Pullupgatherstofit.

Removesheetfromboxspring,keepingskirtpinnedinplace.Stitch1"(2.5cm)fromrawedgeofskirt.

Turnskirtdownoverloweredgeofsheet.Topstitch½"(1.3cm)fromseam,stitchingthroughskirtandsheet.

HowtoSewaPleatedBedSkirt

Folddeckinhalflengthwise,thencrosswisesocornersaretogether.Usingsaucerasaguide,cutcornersingentlecurve.

Foldcurvedcornersinhalftodeterminecenters;markfoldwith¼"(6mm)clips.Also,markcenterofeachsidewithclip.

Stitchskirtpieces,rightsidestogether,onnarrowends,withshorterpieceincenter.Stitch1"(2.5cm)double-foldhemonloweredgeofskirtandonunstitchednarrowendsofskirtpieces.

Pinskirttodeck,rightsidestogether,withstitchingofsidehematclipononeendofdeck(arrow).Form6"(15cm)pleatsatclipsonsidesandcornersofdeck.Seamwillfallinsidepleats.

Removeskirtandmachine-bastepleats.Repositionskirtondeck.Pin,rightsidestogether.Clipcenterofcornerpleats.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.

Pressseamallowancetowarddeck.Press¼"(6mm)double-foldhematopenendofdeck;stitchhem.Topstitchtheskirtseamallowancetodeck.Presspleats.

SHOWERCURTAIN

Abathroomshowercurtainiseasytosew.Youcanchoosefabrictocoordinatewithyourfixtures,tilecolor,andwindowtreatmentfabric.Thisshowercurtainhasgrommetsalongtheupperhem,spacedtoalignwiththegrommetsinastandardshowercurtainliner.JointhefabricpanelswithaFrenchseamtogivethecurtainaneatappearancefrombothsides.Tomaketheshowercurtainwashable,selectawashablefabricandpreshrinkitbeforeyoucutit.

CuttingDirections

Cuttwofull-widthpieces82"(208.5cm)long.Curtainwillbetrimmedtonecessarycutwidthinstep2.

HowtoSewaShowerCurtain

Cutawaytheselvagesevenly.JointhetwolengthstogetherusingaFrenchseam(page106).Thetotalseamallowancewidthis½"(1.3cm),souse¼"(6mm)seamsforeachpass.

Cutoneverticaledgeoftheshowercurtainsothetotalwidthis76"(193cm).Thefinishedwidthofastandardshowercurtainis72"(183cm).Thisallows2"(5cm)oneachsideforhemming.

Pressa3"(7.6cm)double-foldhemintotheloweredge;stitchthehem.

Pressa2"(7.6cm)double-foldhemintoeachside.Unfoldthefabricattheuppercorners.Trimouttheexcessfabricfromtheinnerlayer,asshown,trimmingtowithin3/8"(1cm)ofthefold.Refoldtheupperedge,andpin;stitchtheupperhem.

Marktheplacementfortwelveevenlyspacedgrommetsalongtheupperhem,usingafabricmarker.Positionthem¾"(2cm)fromtheupperedgewiththeoutermarkscenteredinthesidehems.Readthemanufacturer’sdirectionsforattachingthegrommets,andtestthetechniqueonasampleoffabricfoldedseveraltimes.Attachthegrommets.

YOUWILLNEED

45/8yd.(4.25m)fabric

water-solublefabricmarker

twelvegrommets,size0or¼"(6mm),andattachingtool

threadtomatchthefabric

TableFashionsCustomizedtabletopfashionsareasimple,cost-effectivewaytochangethelookofadiningroomorkitchen.Home-sewntableclothsandnapkins,unlikepurchasedones,arenotlimitedtoasmallselectionofstandardsizes.Youcanscaletableclothstofittheexactsizeandshapeofyourtable.Withanabundantsupplyoffabriccolors,patterns,andtextures,youcanmakechoicesthatcomplementyourroomdécor.

SelectingFabrics

Youmayfindasmallselectionof72"(183cm)-widetableclothfabricsinbasiccolorsatthefabricstore.Inmostcases,yousimplybuythelengthyouneedandhemtheedgesforaninstanttablecloth.Manydecoratorfabricsaregoodchoicesfortableclothsbuttheyarenotwideenoughtoprovidetheneededcoverageinonefabricwidth,soyoumustpiecewidthstogether.Avoidacenterseambyusingafullfabricwidthinthecenterandstitchingnarrow,equalsidepanelstoit.

MeasuringtheTable

Thelengthofthetableclothfromtheedgeofthetabletothebottomoftheclothiscalledthedrop.Theusualdroplengthfortableclothsis10"to12"(25.5to30.5cm),whichisatornearchairseatheight.Besuretoincludethedroplengthinyourmeasurements.

Threecommondroplengthsare:short,10"to12"(25.5to30.5cm);mid-length,16"to24"(40.5to61cm);andfloor-length,28"to29"(71to73.5cm).Shortclothsendataboutseatheightandaregoodforeverydayuse.Mid-lengthclothsaremoreformal.Elegantfloor-lengthcoveringsareusedforbuffetanddecoratortables.

Roundtablecloth.Measurethediameterofthetable,thendeterminethedroplengthofthecloth.Thesizeofthetableclothisthediameterofthetableplustwicethedroplengthplus1"(2.5cm)foranarrowhemallowance.Anarrowhemistheeasiestwaytofinishthecurvededgeofaroundtablecloth.

Squareorrectangulartablecloth.Measurethelengthandwidthofthetabletop;thendeterminethedroplengthofthecloth.Addthedroplengthtwicetobothlengthandwidthmeasurementstofindthefinishedtableclothsize.Tofindthecutsize,add1"(2.5cm)toeachmeasurementforanarrowhemor4"(10.2cm)forawiderhem.

Ovaltablecloth.Measurethelengthandwidthofthetabletop,thendeterminethedroplengthofthecloth.Addthedroplengthtwicetobothlengthandwidthmeasurementstofindthefinishedtableclothsize.Tofindthecutsize,add1"(2.5cm)toeachmeasurementforanarrow

hem.Becauseovaltablesvaryinshape,markthefinishedsizewiththefabriconthetable.Centerthefabriconthetableandkeepitinplacewithweights.Thenuseahemmarkerorcardboardgaugetomarkthedroplengthevenlyaroundthecurves.

ROUNDTABLECLOTHS

Therearetwowaystofinishtheedgeofaroundtablecloth:a¼"(6mm)double-foldhemorbyaddingfabric-coveredwelting.Todeterminetheyardageforaroundtablecloth,dividethetableclothdiameterbythefabricwidthless1"(2.5cm).Countfractionsasonewidth.Thisisthenumberofwidthsyouneed.Thenmultiplythenumberofwidthsbythediameteranddivideby36"(100cm)tofindthetotalyards(meters).

CuttingDirections

Thecutsizeofthetableclothisthediameterofthetableplustwicethedroplength.Add1"(2.5cm)foranarrowhemallowance.Ifyouwanttofinishtheedgewithwelting,thecutsizeisthesameasthefinishedsize.Determinewhereyouwanttheseamsinyourtablecloth,usingoneof

theseoptions: Option .Useoneseamwhenthediameterofthetableclothislessthanone-and-one-halftimesthefabricwidth.Subtractthefabricwidthfromthetableclothdiameter.Cutastriponthelengthwisegrainofonefabricpiecethatis2"(5.1cm)widerthanthismeasurement.

Option .Usetwoseamswhenthediameterofthetableclothismorethanone-andone-halftimesthefabricwidth.Cutonefabricpieceinhalflengthwise.

HowtoCutaRoundTablecloth

Joinfabricpanels,rightsidestogether,with½"(1.3cm)seamstoformasquare.Foldsquareintofourths.Pinlayerstogethertopreventslipping.

Tieastringtoamarkingpencil.Pintheotherendofthestringtothecenterfoldedcornerofthefabricadistancefromthepencilequaltothecutradiusofthetablecloth.Markthearc.Cutonthemarkedlines;removethepins.

HowtoSewaWeltedHem

Stitcharoundtablecloth¼"(6mm)fromedge.Pressunderonstitchingline.Pressunder¼"(6mm)again,easingfullnessaroundcurves.Edgestitchclosetofoldededge.

HowtoSewaNarrowHem

Multiplydiameteroftableclothby3½todeterminelengthofweltingneeded.Cutandjoinbiasstrips,rightsidestogether,tocoverwelting(page248).

Covercordingandattachtorightsideofcloth.Zigzagseamandpresstobackoftablecloth.Topstitch¼"(6mm)fromweltedseam.

SQUAREANDRECTANGULARTABLECLOTHS

Maketableclothsthedesiredwidthbyjoiningfabricwidthsasnecessary,usingfullwidthsinthecenterandpartialwidthsonthelengthwiseedges.Straightenthecrosswiseendsoffabric(page221)tosquarethecorners.Useplain,French,oroveredgeseams.

Hemtheedgeswithdouble-foldhemsof¼"(6mm)widthoruse1"(2.5cm)widthtogivethemmoreweight.Miteringistheneatestwaytosquarethecornersbecauseitcoversrawedgesandeliminatesbulk.

Todeterminetheamountoffabricyouneed,dividethetotalwidthofthetableclothbythewidthofyourfabric,less1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Countfractionsasonewidth.Multiplythisfigure,whichisthenumberofpanelsneededbythetotallengthofthetablecloth.Dividethisnumberby36"(100cm)togetthetotalyards(meters)required.

CuttingDirections

Thecutlengthofthetableclothisthelengthofthetabletopplustwicethedroplengthplus4"(10cm)forhems.Thecutwidthisthewidthofthetabletopplustwicethedroplengthplus4"(10cm)forhems.Fortableclothswiderthanonefabricwidth,cuttwopiecestothenecessarylengthandsewthemtogether,followingtheguidelinesatleft.Thencuttothenecessarywidth.

HowtoSewaWideMiteredHem

Pressunder2"(5cm)onallfouredgesofthecloth.Unfold.Presseachcornerdiagonallyatpointwherecreasesintersect.Trimoffcornerdiagonallyfromonefoldlinetotheother.Usedotoffabricgluesticktoholdcornerinplace.

Turneachcutedgein,aligningittofirstfoldline;pressouterfold.

Refoldhem,encasingrawedge.Pin.Atcorners,creaseswillmeet,formingmiter.Usemoregluesticktoholdfoldsinplace.

Edgestitchalonginnerfold.Pivotatcorners.Press.

REVERSIBLEPLACEMATS

Sparkupyourdiningroomtableorbreakfastnookwithreversibleoctagonalplacemats.Theseplacematsarelinedtotheedgeandcanbemadereversiblebyselectingtwodecoratorfabrics.Welting(page248),sewnintotheouteredgeoftheplacemat,isavailableindifferentsizesandcolors,oryoucanmakeyourown.Foreaseofapplication,chooseweltingnolargerthan "(4.5mm).

HowtoSewaReversiblePlacemat

Drawa13"×19"(33×48.5cm)rectangle×onpaper.Markpoint3½"(9cm)fromeachcorner.Drawdiagonallinesacrosseachcornerconnectingmarks;cutoffcorners.

Preshrinkfabrics(page220).Topreshrinkwelting,wrapitintolargeloopsandtieitinthemiddlewithlargelooseknot.Soakweltinginwarmwater;squeezeoutexcessmoisture.Placeinnetlaundrybagornylonstockingbeforetossingindryer.Thiswillkeepitfromgettingtootangled.Presstheflatedgeoftheweltingwhendry.

Cutoutfrontandbackforeachplacemat,usingpattern.Makesureedgesareparalleltograinlines.

YOUWILLNEED

forfourplacemats:

paperfordrawingapattern

¾yd.(0.7m)fabricforplacematfronts

¾yd.(0.7m)fabricforplacematbacks

7yd.(6.4m)welting

threadtomatchfabrics

Pinweltingtorightsideofplacematfront.Keepweltingrelaxed.Clipintoseamallowanceofweltingateachcornerofplacematatexactpointwhereweltingmustbend.Clipto,butnotthroughstitchingline,sothatweltingseamallowancesspreadopenandlieflat.

Sewweltingtoplacematfrontasforweltedpillow,page248.

Pinplacematfrontoverback,rightsidestogether,encasingweltingbetweenlayersandaligningouteredges.Stitchjustinsidefirststitchingline,leavinganopeningforturningalongoneside.

Trimseamallowancesdiagonallyateachcorner.Turnbackandpressbackseamallowance½"(1.3cm)fromtheedgeatopening.

Turnplacematrightsideoutthroughopening.Usepointturnertopushoutcorners.Pressplacematuptoweltingasyousmoothandtugweltingouttotheedgewithyourfingers.Slipstitchopeningclosed.

NAPKINS

Coordinatingnapkinsarethefinishingtouchtoyourtabletopfashions.Standardfinishednapkinsare14"or17"(35.5or43cm)square.Beforecuttingthefabric,squaretheends,usingacarpenter’ssquare.Forfringednapkins,squaretheendsbypullingathread.

Napkinhemscanbedecorative.Experimentwithsomeofthedecorativestitchesonyoursewingmachine.Thehemmingtechniquesshownherecanalsobeusedfortableclothsandsingle-layerplacemats.

CuttingDirections

Cutnapkins1"(2.5cm)largerthanfinishedsize.Oneyard(meter)of36"(100cm)-widefabricyieldsfour17"(43cm)napkins.Apieceoffabric45"(115cm)squareyieldsnine14"(35.5cm)napkins.

SixWaystoHemNapkins

SatinStitch.Turnunder½"(1.3cm)onallsides.Mitercorners(page343).Edgestitchalongrawedgetouseasguide.Usewide,closelyspacedzigzagtostitchfromrightsideoveredgestitching.

Zigzagoveredge.Trimloosethreadsfromnapkinedges.Stitchoverrawedge,usingwide,closelyspacedzigzag.Useoveredgefootorspecial-purposefoottomaintainzigzagwidth.

Decorativestitch.Pressunder¼"(6mm)andstitch.Fromrightside,stitchwithadecorativestitch,usingstraightstitchingastheguideline.Blanketstitch(shownabove)givesahemstitchedlook.

Double-foldhem.Turnunder¼"(6mm)onalledgesandpress.Turnunderanother¼"(6mm).Mitercornersasonpage343.Edgestitchclosetofold.

Fringe.Cutnapkinsonapulledthreadtostraightenedges.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromrawedgeswithshortstraightstitchesornarrowcloselyspacedzigzag.Pulloutthreadsuptothestitchingline.

Sergededge.Overlockedgeswithyourserger.Threadlooperswithwoolynylonthreadforbettercoverage.Stitchtwooppositesides,thenremainingsides,leavinglongtails.Weavetailsbackunderoverlockstitchesfor1"(2.5cm) ;cutoffremainingtail.Orapplyliquidfraypreventeratcorners ;allowtodry,andcutofftails.

Index

aabdomenadjustments,97–98

accessories,12–13activewear,202–211

bballpointpins/needles,25bastingtape,30

bedskirts,333–335beeswaxwithholder,25betweens,25bias,272biasboundfinish,113biasstrips,80

biastape,33blindstitchhemfoot,13bobbins,10bodkin,31bodymeasurements,37

bolsterpillows,237–239boundseamfinishes,112–114boxedcushion,257,260–263boxpillows,234–236braid,33

brocade,62

buckram,272bustadjustments,90–93buttonfoot,13

buttonholeattachments,12buttonholecutter,31buttonholes,164–167buttons,34,168–170,245

cchainstitch,16

clearance,272closures,34,162–183,240–245collars,134–139,190–193cordedpiping,33corduroy,49,51–52

cornersinside,22outside,23

coverstitch,17crewels,25

crosswisegrain,272cuffs,130–133curtains,304–315curvededges,22cushions,256–263cutlength,272

cuttingboard,31

cuttinglayouts,41cuttingtips,80cuttingtools,28

cutwidth,272

ddarts,120–121decoratorfabrics,219–223diagonalfabrics,48directionalfabrics,79

draperies,316–323dressmaker’stracingpaper,26duvetcovers,328–332

eedges

curved,22decorative,246–251easy,148–149elasticized,216–217ribbed,208–211

elastic,33

elasticizededges,216–217elasticizedwaistbands,202–207embroideredfabrics,65–67equipment,24–31cuttingtools,28

handsewing,25markingtools,26measuringtools,27

pressingtools,29sewing-machineneedles,24specialized,30–31

evenfeedfoot,13eyes,34

ffabricpreparation,73–74fabrics.Seealsospecifictypesclassic,48–49classificationof,44decorator,219–223

easy-to-sew,45handlingspecial,46sewingtechniquesfor,47tailoring,185

fashiondrawings,40

fasteners,34finethread,32finish,272finishedlength,272flangedpillowshams,325–327flangepillows,232–233

flat-fellseams,107–108,115,117

flatlockseams,115,118–119flatlockstitch,17flatpanelcurtains,304–307

flounce,272Frenchseams,105–106,115,116,225fringe,251frogs,34fullness,272

fur,69fusibleinterfacings,57,70–72,184–189futoncovers,264–267

ggabardine,48–49gatheredseams,115,118

gathers,122–125glue,30

hhandbasting,82handsewingequipment,25heading,273

heavyweightfabrics,47hems,142–149,196–197,286–287hipadjustments,98–101HongKongfinish,112,113hooksandeyes,34,162–163

iin-seampockets,150,155insidecorners,22

interfacings,57,70–72,184–189interlining,273ironingboard,30irons,29

jjackets

lining,198–199tailoring,185–197

kknife-edgecushions,257,258knife-edgepillows,228–229knits,46,47,55–57,73

llace,65–67laceseambinding,33lamé,62lappedclosures,244–245

layoutofdirectionalfabrics,79pattern,75

ofplaidsandstripes,76–78leather,69lengthadjustments,87–89

leotards,212–217lightweightfabrics,47lining,198–201,273liquidmarkers,81liquidravelpreventer,30

loopturner,31looseweaves,48,50–51lustrousfabrics,62–63

mmachinebasting,81,82man-madefibers,44

markingpens/pencils,26,81markingtips,81–83markingtools,26measuringtools,27medium-weightfabrics,47

metallicfabrics,62milliner’sneedles,25miter,273mockboxpillows,230–231mockup,273mountingboards,282–285

nnapkins,347–348nappedandpilefabrics,46

naturalfibers,44necklinesfinishfor,148–149ribbed,209–211

needlegripper,30needles

handsewing,25serger,15sewing-machine,24

needlethreader,25no-grainfabrics,47

notchedcollars,190–193notions,32–35

oone-waydesignfabrics,46on-grain,273outsidecorners,23

overedgefoot,13overedgeseamfinish,115,116overedgestitch,16overlap,273overlockseams,115

overlockstitch,16

ppants,lining,200–201

paper-backfusibleweb,31parsonschairs,268–271patchpockets,150–154patternadjustmentstobust,90–93guidelinesfor,85

tohips,98–101tolength,87–89methods,86forswimsuitsandleotards,212–213towaistandabdomen,94–98

patterncatalogs,36patternedfabrics,222–223patternenvelope,38–39patternpieces,42patternrepeat,273

patternscomponents,40–43layingout,75selecting,36

pillows,226–251closureoptions,240–245

decorativeedges,246–251

formsandfillings,227typesof,228–239

pillowshams,325–327

pincatcher,31pinch-pleateddraperies,316–323pincushions,25,31pins,25,81,83placemats,344–346

plaids,46,48,76–78plainseams,224pleatingpins,25pockets,150–161pointpresser/clapper,29pointturner,31

polyesterthread,32preparation,fabric,73–74preshrinking,74presscloth,29pressing,81,82

pressingmitt,29pressingtools,29pressureregulation,10–11prints,48projection,273

qquiltingpins,25

rrailroading,273reinforcedseams,115,116

return,273ribbededges,208–211ribbing,55rickrack,33rodpocket,273rod-pocketcurtains,312–315

rolledhemstitch,17rolledseams,115,117Romanshades,296–303rotarycutter,28ruffles,250

rules,27

ssafetystitches,16–17,225satin,62scarfswags,288–291scissors,28

seamfinishes,110–119seamgauge,27seamripper,28seamroll,29seams,102–119

curved,104encased,105–108ending,21

homedécor,224–225forlooseweaves,51machine-stitching,103serged,115–119starting,21

stretch,109typesof,115–119

seamtape,33seatcovers,253–263self-boundseams,105self-lined,273

selvagefinish,110,273sequinedfabrics,62sergedseams,115–119sergers,14–25basicof,20–23

careandmaintenance,15functionsandparts,14–15tensionadjustments,18–19typesof,16–17

sergerthread,15,32

sewingdirections,41sewing-machineneedles,24sewingmachines.Seealsosergers

accessories,12–13choosing,9stitchadjustments,10–11

threading,10shades,Roman,296–303shank,12shankbuttons,34sharps,25

shears,28sheerfabrics,46,47,58–61shoulderpads,194–195shoulders,tailoringjacket,194–195showercurtains,336–337silkpins,25

silkyfabrics,58–61skirts,lining,200–201slantedpockets,150,156–157sleeveboard,29sleeves,126–129,188

slipcovers,252–271slits,stitching,22snaps,34,171–172snaptape,34snips,81,83

specialpurposefoot,13stabilizedseams,116,119stackingspace,273

stitchedandpinkseams,110stitchesremoving,23

typesof,16–17stitchlengthregulator,10stitchtension,10–11,18–19straightpins,25straightstitches,11

straight-stitchplate,12stretchseams,109stripes,46,48,76–78suede,69supplies,32–35.Seealsoequipmentswags,288–291swimsuits,212–217

syntheticfur,suede,andleather,69

ttabcurtains,308–311tablecloths,338–343table-topironingboard,30

taffeta,62tailoring,184–201tailor’schalk,26,81,83tailor’sham,29tapemeasure,27tapes,33

thread

serger,15,20–23typesof,32

threadclipper,28

toggles,34tools.Seeequipmenttracingpaper,26tracingwheels,26traverserods,277,280–281

tricotboundfinish,113trims,33T-square,27turnandstitchedfinishes,110,111twilltape,33twillweavefabrics,46

uundertreatment,273

vvalances,292–295velvet,49velveteen,49,51–52

wwaistadjustments,94–98waistbands,140–141waterfallcushion,257,259

weights,31welting,246–249weltpockets,150,158–161

windowhardware,276–281windowmeasurements,274–275windowtreatments,272–323wovenfabrics,73

yyardstick,27

zzigzagfinishes,110,111zigzagplateandfoot,12zigzagstitches,11,225zipperfoot,13

zippers,35,173–183,241–43

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