WILDLIFE REPORT SINGITA KRUGER NATIONAL PARK, SOUTH AFRICA For the month of October, Two Thousand and Eighteen

Photo by Margaux le Roux

Temperature Rainfall Recorded Sunrise & Sunset Average minimum: 16°C (61°F) For the period: 12 mm Sunrise: 05h06 Average maximum: 30°C (86°F) For the year to date: 273 mm Sunset: 18h05 Minimum recorded: 12°C (54°F) Maximum recorded: 38°C (100°F)

October is generally known to be hot, but this year it was exceptionally cool, overcast and windy. The first light dusting of rain arrived, and with that the new green grass and leaves are starting to push through the arid landscape. The rain was not enough to contribute much to levels of the drying rivers and dams, but fortunately there is still enough water to sustain the wildlife in the area, and consequently great numbers of impala, wildebeest and zebras have arrived. More migratory birds are also returning, and the turquoise and brown fluttering of the European bee-eaters’ wings are dotting the skies again. The Wahlberg’s eagles are building and remodelling their nests, and breeding is in full swing. Here’s a Sightings Snapshot for October:

Buffalos: Report by Mike Kirby Buffalo sightings have been fairly sporadic this month, with regular gaps between sightings of these formidable bovids. Herds of over 200 individuals have been seen moving into the concession from the West. They are forced to make the arduous journey to drink at the dwindling water that remains in isolated pools along the N’wanetsi River. The noise of hundreds of hooves, and the bellowing of quarrelling herd members can be heard from a great distance, and it is this “music to the lions’ ears” that draws the attention of the big cats. The arrival of the lions is usually the driving force behind the buffalo leaving the area. Some guides and guests were fortunate enough to witness a sensational battle between the herd and the Shishangaan Pride. The pride killed a fully-grown buffalo cow and, while they were feeding, the entire herd came back and chased them off. A 45-minute standoff ensued, accompanied by snorting, grunting and lots of growling from these, somewhat forlorn looking cats. What was interesting, is the behaviour as the herd almost ritualistically came one by one to smell the deceased cow - some licked their fallen comrade, and one big buffalo bull even managed to hook the carcass and lift the deceased cow completely off the ground. It definitely showed a more emotionally complex side to buffalo. While this was happening the cows and calves moved safely off to the west, leaving the concession and the lions to continue feeding. The full encounter can be found in the Lion report. Various other smaller herds have also been spotted along the Mozambique Border, residing in the ridges in the north of the concession. They too move up and down to drink at Dumbana pools. It was one of these herds that lost a small calf to the Mountain Pride earlier this month.

Photo by Margaux le Roux Elephants: Report by Jacques Briam Elephants have been viewed daily this month. In fact, there have been over 120 different elephant sightings recorded. With the dry conditions, most of the water-dependent species, including elephants, have been found mostly around the N'wanetsi River as there are a few remaining pools in which these animals can quench their thirst and find some relief from the heat. Some of these remaining pools of water are in front of both Lebombo and Sweni Lodges and, as such, guests have also been treated to some wonderful sightings of elephants (as well as other species) in between the morning and afternoon game drives.

Photos by Brian Rode

Spotted hyenas: Report by Jacques Briam There have been 40 different recorded sightings of spotted hyenas during this month of October. Of these, most were of hyenas at the den-site that is nestled in the Granophyre Ridge. There have also been a few sightings of hyenas on the move, or around carcasses. In fact, we were privileged to watch hyenas and leopards interact around carcasses on multiple occasions this month. Usually, the hyenas were seen patiently waiting for scraps at the base of the trees in which the leopards had hoisted their food.

Photo by Margaux le Roux Lions: The stars for this month in terms of frequent viewing was definitely the Mountain Pride. The cubs are a definite highlight, especially when they are found playing with each other and with their older cousins. The older cubs that have been suffering from mange are slowly recovering from the itchy ordeal and their fur is starting to grow back. Mange is not an uncommon disease, but unfortunately it can weaken an animal, and in some cases, the decreased immunity can even be fatal, so it is no surprise that everybody is relieved that the youngsters are getting better. The fact that the Mountain Pride lionesses are exceptional hunters attributes to the cubs wellbeing, as the mothers are getting enough food for themselves to produce sufficient milk which the cubs thrive on.

Photo by Margaux le Roux

During this month they were seen feeding on a buffalo calf, and as usual the commotion lured in the Shishangaan Males, that ended up stealing the kill from the females. Fortunately, the mothers and young managed to get some food before their quarry was stolen. The Shishangaan Males were seen regularly this last month, with mostly the big, black maned, temperamental male being found. As he has a hip injury, he cannot patrol as far as his able-bodied brothers can, and unfortunately with the coalition of three often having to break up in order for the males to protect their turf from intruders, the two smaller bothers were attacked by another coalition of unknown male lions. Fortunately, they were not too badly injured, but with bite marks on one’s shoulders, and with fresh blood still oozing from the other’s back, the males are walking a bit slower than usual. Hopefully this won’t hinder their patrolling, as their defence against intruder males is vital for the cubs’ survival. The possible intruders were found on the 27th of this month, very close to the lodge. These unfamiliar newcomers are very relaxed around vehicles, so it is assumed that they have not come from Mozambique. They are also much bigger and older than the rogue male lions that were killing off members of the Shishangaan Pride earlier this year. Only time will tell if these three will become the new pride males of the Singita concession. The Xhirombe Pride was also found, and the mother and son duo had made several kills next to the Mozambique border. He is looking as handsome as ever.

Photo by Brian Rode Cheetahs: Report by Jacques Briam We have recorded about 15 different cheetah sightings this month. Most of these sightings were of a mother cheetah and her three sub-adult cubs. Cheetahs are rare and camouflage very well in the dry grasses, which has made finding them even more challenging. On October 12th, a few guides were treated to an amazing sighting of the mother cheetah hunting and catching a heavily pregnant impala ewe. While the mother was busy killing the impala, the three cubs ran towards their mother and watched attentively as she killed the impala. Although these cubs are still too young to be hunting themselves, it is through these kinds of experiences that they learn how to go about it.

Photo by Margaux le Roux Leopards: Report by Mike Kirby October has been extremely productive with sightings of these elusive cats. The sparse vegetation and concentrations of game has provided pretty reliable viewing. Our young and upcoming star, the young Dumbana Male, has a relaxed attitude and his preferred areas have enabled our guides and their guests some spectacular viewing! A few nights ago, the nervous barking of a troop of baboons alerted all to the presence of this youngster as he was found sauntering along the banks of the N’wanetsi River. Suddenly the youngster stopped dead in his tracks, and with his head lowered towards a dense clump of grass it became obvious that he had found something in the thicket. Upon further inspection it was noted that he had walked into a huge crocodile that was lying out on the bank. He moved closer to a crocodile out of curiosity and began snarling, and after prodding at the croc, the huge reptile hissed and lunged backwards. The youngster then carried on with his patrol, sniffing the cool night air, when out of nowhere another leopard was spotted on the opposite bank of the river. The second leopard walked straight towards the young male, and upon further inspection it was realised that it was his mother, the Dumbana Female who we have not seen in a long time on the concession. Together the duo was left unattended, disappearing into the cover of darkness.

Photo by Margaux le Roux

Some of our guests were also privileged enough to see a long-time resident, the Mhlanguleni Female. This slender, almost blue-eyed beauty was found lying up in the grass, close to a ridge in the heart of the Central Depression one morning. She began to move, with her eyes fixated on some impala in the distance. She slowly made her way towards them but eventually lost interest, and as an extremely experienced and effective hunter we continued to follow her as we could see she was in need of a meal. Using the tall blonde grass as cover, completely immersing her small frame, she launched at a Sharpe’s grysbok, that just managed to get away - springing in sheer terror above the grass to escape her grip. She, however, carried on walking with serious intent, and started stalking a large clump of grass close to the ridge. When all of a sudden, she leapt into the thicket, and a scream followed. She emerged with the unlucky grysbok’s partner gripped tightly in her jaws. She proceeded to find some shade and plucked the tiny antelopes fur out before feeding in front of a group of astounded and excited guests. She also looked to be lactating, so no doubt the unfortunate grysbok would be supplying nutrients for many mouths. An unknown large male leopard was also found, feeding on an impala kill which he had returned to from the previous day. A couple of vultures managed to wait in a dead tree nearby. Two hyaenas were also waiting patiently for the snarling leopard to drop some of his prized meat from the tree. The large male even urinated from the tree right on top of a hyaena, who seemed largely unfazed by the sudden shower! The leopard descended and snuck away into a guarri thicket to rest and escape the heckling by the vultures and hyenas. The hyenas couldn’t quite reach, but it was entertaining to see them try, before the vultures crammed into the tiny, tightly vegetated tree. An amazing way to end an afternoon drive. Other interesting sightings: This month has also seen the early arrival of some baby animals. Some guests were fortunate enough to witness a baby giraffe being born near Ndlovu Look-out. The mother stood close by, grooming her wet offspring as the baby tried to stand up for the first time. After many failed attempts the baby finally managed to gain its footing in order for the mom to nurse it. A truly magnificent sighting.

Photo by Margaux le Roux

Another interesting sighting occurred at Puff Adder Pools, where two large crocodiles were seen mating in the water. This is very unusual to see. Photo by Brian Rode Unseated from power The Shishangaan Pride with the white lion was seen a couple of times this month. On the morning of the 6th we witnessed an incredible once-in-a-lifetime sighting. A big herd of approximately 200 Cape Buffalo were slowly moving towards the N’wanetsi River, blissfully unaware that they were being trailed by the Shishangaan pride. Slowly, slowly the lions took up their position with the wind in their favour. Some of the pride had split off to flank the herd whilst others were waiting patiently in the nearby long grass. Suddenly and without warning, the lions started to chase their unsuspecting victims straight towards where the ambush was set, and as the herd started to stampede, the confusion of hooves and dust filling the air was just what the pride had been waiting for… Soon the distress call of a buffalo cow rang out over the grassland and, as the dust stared to settle, the whole pride worked together to bring the buffalo down. A feeding frenzy started to ensue, with lions brawling and vying for a position around the freshly killed quarry. The bright red blood soon started to stain their tawny coats, and with growling and snarling, teeth barred and claws slashing at each other, the lions were completely unaware that the tables were slowly turning against them. The herd of buffalo had managed to regroup, and with black coats and flanks touching each other, and with shiny horns glistening in the morning sun, the “bovine wall” cautiously edged towards where the lions were feeding on one of their own. Some of lions became aware of the approaching danger, and they soon leapt up and trotted off, but other pride members, including the white lion, decided to stand their ground against their foes. At one point, three lions were lying with flattened bodies against the carcass whilst hissing and snarling at a big buffalo bull that was approaching the carcass from the other side. The big bull was soon followed by others and, at one point, one of the young lions struck out at the buffalo, with his claws raking the buffalo’s soft wet nose. This was the tipping point, as the buffalo then started to come in more ferociously, with horns lowered to the ground, and hooves stampeding towards the remaining lions. Some pride members had backed themselves right against a russet bushwillow, where the thinning branches offered feeble protection against the infuriated buffalo. Slowly the buffalo had flanked the pride,

and soon there was no escape route for the cornered big cats. In the distance, some buffalo were still chasing after some of the pride, and with all of this confusion going on, the lions’ focus and attention had suddenly shifted away from the buffalo and the kill, and straight towards an older lioness that was covered in scars. Her coat, unstained with the blood of fresh kill, made her stand out from the rest of the pride. Suddenly the Shish pride’s demeanor changed, as they started to run at this lioness. Some buffalo stared on as the lions were chasing their own, a further contribution towards the confusion. The lioness, that was from the Mountain Pride took off, with the Shishangaan members in hot pursuit. With lions being fiercely territorial it was wise for her to move out of their territory, especially since she was outnumbered. Fortunately for her the Shishangaan Pride turned back to go towards their kill. With roaring and much salivating going on, all the Mountain Pride lionesses had reunited, and steadily they moved off to an area of safety.

Photo by Brian Rode Memories from the N’wanetsi Concession Story and photos by Jacques Briam For the past two and a half years, I have explored the beautiful N’wanetsi Concession that is home to Singita Lebombo and Sweni, and I have had the privilege of sharing this wilderness with a number of guests from around the world. On so many occasions, being in this wilderness area has taken my breath away. Leaving this area now is conjuring up many emotions - emotions that are ultimately being transformed into ever-lasting memories. If I think about what makes me cherish the N’wanetsi Concession so much, I’d have to say that it’s the area’s sheer unpredictability. Nestled in the central eastern parts of the Kruger National Park, the wilderness of the N’wanetsi Concession is bordered by more wilderness. There are no other safari operators in the area, no other lodges, no other people. Every day, we guides and trackers rely totally on ourselves to find animals. We are equipped only with keen eyesight, tracking skills, and our knowledge of animal movements and habitat preferences. Excitement mounts as we search for any clues that may lead us to find a specific animal. Patience is required as well. When we do find what we set out to look for, the search for animals can end up being

extremely rewarding. When we do not find what we were looking for, frustration can creep in. Nevertheless, because the results are unpredictable, the search is inevitably exciting. I have had the good fortune to work almost exclusively with Sunday Ndlovu, one of South Africa’s best trackers. His skills, passion, patience, and determination make him an incredible partner when one is searching for animals. And Sunday’s engaging personality, sense of humour, and contagious smile make him a pleasure to work with on a day-to-day basis. I retain vivid memories of our experiences together, many of which I cannot help smiling about when recollecting them. Sunday and I have made a great team, and I will sorely miss not working with him. As I prepare to leave the N’wanetsi Concession for Singita Sabi Sand, I would like to pay a small tribute to the incredible moments that I have experienced over the past two and a half years. Here are photographic highlights of some of my favourites. Giraffes are generally quite abundant on the N’wanetsi Concession, and I have thoroughly enjoyed seeing these beautiful giants dotted around this unique landscape.

The striking beauty of some of the rocky tors often took my attention away from looking for animals. Here, we were lucky enough to enjoy both the elephant and the landscape at the same time.

I never tired seeing a classic Lebombo sunrise with silhouetted Euphorbia trees.

Although rhino viewing here can be quite challenging, we were lucky to come across this beautiful white rhino bull, thanks to Sunday’s incredible spotting skills.

The Mountain Pride, despite not being as numerous as some of the other prides in this area, has been my favourite to follow. The core of their territory is in the heart of the N’wanetsi Concession, and as such, we have gotten to know these lions quite well.

This small group of zebras wander off at dusk in preparation for the night. The high density of zebras in this part of the Kruger has been incredible to witness.

A large flock of Cape glossy starlings drink from a drying pan. Although common, these beautiful birds are strikingly beautiful, especially when the sunlight reflects off of their iridescent feathers.

Some of my most exciting mornings on the N’wanetsi Concession have always started with tracks. In this case, we found a set of fresh lion tracks along the road. After following them with the vehicle and on foot, we were eventually able to find the lions.

My good friend and colleague Sunday Ndlovu poses with some elephants in the background. Sunday’s last name, Ndlovu, means “elephant … so I find this photo rather fitting.

This large pride of lions, known as the Shishangaan Pride, made a surprise appearance on our concession late one morning. With the N’wanetsi Concession being part of an open wilderness system, you never know what you will come across. It truly is unpredictable.

We celebrated our last afternoon together with a wonderful sundowner on top of the Lebombo Mountains.

October Gallery

Photos by Brian Rode

Photo by Margaux le Roux

Photos by Brian Rode

Photo by Brian Rode

Photo by Margaux le Roux

Report by Margaux le Roux, Jacques Briam & Mike Kirby Photos by Margaux le Roux, Jacques Briam & Brian Rode

Singita Kruger National Park South Africa

Thirty-first of October 2018