INSKINFROM THE SAFEST, MOST EFFECTIVE CARE ON THE PLANET:

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BEAUTY IS “PROOF,” PROOF BEAUTY Evidence In Skin Care

PRETTY SMART Hot Fall Beauty With Safe, Skin-Enhancing Makeup

CAREGIVER STRESS, ECZEMA & FOOD “Skinside-Out” Care

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IS COCONUT OIL COMEDOGENIC? CREAM, LOTION OR SERUM? WHAT TO EXPECT IN ANTI-AGING SKINCARE?

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VMV HYPOALLERGENICS® is a safe product alternative in CAMP, the Contact Allergen Management Program of the American Contact Dermatitis Society [contactderm.org].

Proof, Beauty

CEO, Creative DirectorVMV HYPOALLERGENICS ®

Fall 2013 letter from VMV

We might be a skin health and beauty brand but proof is our business. I wrote these words on page 15 after a review of our latest clinical studies left me, frankly, awed by what we do. Yes, I work here, I know what goes on. I grew up at VMV watching my mother’s incessant squinting at her microscope, reading mountain-ous piles of journals and books, and typing, typing, typing. But it’s during reviews of the year’s scientific papers that the momentousness of the work that we do hits home. We make real contributions to the science of the skin, contri-butions valid enough to be chosen by leading scientific organizations for presentation to the global medical com-munity. And because all this knowledge goes into helping people — many, frustrated and some, quite desperate — we spread a good amount of happy while doing it!

Among our happiest clients are those whose eczema is managed, partly with our products. It’s never just about product, of course — nutrition and overall health are fun-damental. Check out this excellent piece on eczema and food allergies by Jennifer Roberge of The Eczema Com-pany and one of our favorite blogs ItchyLittleWorld.com. “Could Certain Foods Be Causing Your Itchy Skin?” (page 7) has invaluable information and tips for anyone looking for relief from relentless discomfort. Speaking of relentless discomfort, caring for someone with chronic allergies can be taxing for patient and caregiver alike, with stress being a compounding challenge. Clinical psychologist Dr. Tiffany Taft specializes in the psychology of chronic illness and her article “Caregiver Stress Syndrome” on page 13 is a must-read for anyone caring for children (or entire families) with chronic allergic conditions. Stress isn’t just a trigger for eczema. It is linked to many other skin, mental and health conditions. Its management must be our priority.

Our “skintelligence” issue is the most popular of the year for its myth-busting and extensively researched answers to customers’ most frequently asked questions. This year’s crop starts on page 5 and is, if you’ll permit me, really cool! There’s the customer whose photographic docu-mentation of her healing process (a first in InSKIN) shows the power of patch testing, the customer whose allergy to metal manifested as darkening on the perimeter of her

underarm, as well as exciting new studies on sunscreens and aging, and virgin coconut oil and comedogenicity.

The second reason for this issue’s popularity: fall beauty. VMV Makeup Artist and Esthetician, Jess Arnaudin, has created quite the collection. From high-impact modern minimalism to glowing bronze goddesses and the Hollywood siren cat-eye, we’ve got something for everyone. It’s jaw-dropping how beautiful safe and (very) smart makeup can be. It all starts on page 3 and includes “skinsider tips” from our team’s own experimentations (I love that we can play with makeup at work...that we’re expected to!).

Arriving home from work the other day, I was ambushed by my six year old and her play date giggling over their “surprise.” They escorted me to their “laboratory”: the bathroom sink buried under glue and shiny things. Raised above the detritus, a bottle of purple goo. “VMV Sparkle!” they announced with a flourish. They’d created a “multi-purpose cleaner” by mixing our Kid Gloves Hand Sanitizer, violet paint and what seemed to be a small country’s entire supply of glitter. “We made a new prod-uct!” they cried, demonstrating with TV-shopping gusto how the concoction wiped away all (some) traces of mess (pen marks and crumbs). I hope they never lose their glee over experimentation and discovery. I’ll give up every bathroom in the house for that.

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TipAny minimalist look hinges on clear,

glowing skin. Call us at (212) 226 7309 for a targeted regimen or to book a facial. Then, it’s Skin-The-Bluff Concealer to spot touch

as needed. Feather with (H)eyebrow for bold arches. Use a soft golden metallic eyeshadow then a bold burgundy lip but applied lightly.

For this look, less is more. Prime the skin with your skin type’s SuperSkin Care

Moisturizer. For the complete Makeup Tutorial, see page 8.

Dallas

Feel The Burn ; Smoulder(H)eyebrow

Skin-The-Bluff Concealer

Life’s A Beach

SuperSkin Care Moisturizer

2 | V M V I n S K I N fall 2013 vmvhypoallergenics.com | skintelligencenter.com vmvhypoallergenics.com | skintelligencenter.com fall 2013 V M V I n S K I N | 3

The ABCs of your

FAQs. From aging to

allergies, cream types

to eczema, gluten to

metals, patch tests and

the safety of “natural,”

we cover an alphabet’s

worth of complexion

conundrums. Hungry

for more free “skintel?”

Check out skintelligencenter.

com, follow us on Twitter.

com/VMV and “Like”

us on Facebook.com/

VMVHYPOALLERGENICS.

TRUTH BE TOLD:

myth f o l i a t i onOUR ANNUAL MYTH “PEEL”

r edu c e s f i n e f i b s & whoppe r s ,d e ep - c l e ans e s b ew i l d e r bu i l dup

No.1 =*6���(*5,��:/(=05.�)<47:s h a v i n g b u m p sv i r g i n c o c o n u t o i l = a c n e ?

Are shaving bumps acne?

Not necessarily. You might have clogged pores, too, but true shaving bumps are actually “ingrown” hairs: coarse or curly hairs that loop under and grow back upwards to the skin’s surface. This is called pseudofolliculitis — pseudo because it is not a true inflammation from bacteria or fungi. Try a non-pore-clogging shaving regimen to rule out folliculitis and ask your dermatologist for treatment options like lasers.

No.2 .3<;,5��4,;(3�g l u t e nIs gluten a legitimate concern for skin?

For certain people, yes. It is not a common skin allergen but for those sensitive to it, when ingested, gluten is linked to some nutritional problems which could impact the skin. More directly skin-related, gluten causes dermatitis herpetiformis, a chronic blistering skin condition not related to herpes. If you are allergic to gluten, avoid it in food and in personal care products (all VMV products are gluten-free).

m e t a l a l l e r g y & c l o t h i n gI’m allergic to metal and my doctor says it might be causing my underarm darkening, of all things?!

Metals top allergen lists worldwide and can cause dryness, redness, scaling, itching, darkening or other abnormal symptoms on areas that might come in contact with metals in combs, clips, eyeglasses, headphones, microphones or helmets; on the ears, wrist or chest from jewelry; on the waist from buttons or belt buckles; or on the fingers or hands from contact with cell phones and other devices or their cases.

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HKOLYL�[V�MHIYPJ��HUK�[OH[�[OPZ�JHU�JH\ZL�Z[\IIVYU�ZRPU�KHYRLUPUN&

Pay close attention to where the abnormalities occur. Darkening on the exterior of the underarm where skin comes into contact with sleeve openings is a good example, as are itching or darkening on the knees or groin areas where clothing tends to gather or crease.

The most allergenic metals are nickel (consistently a top allergen), gold, manganese, palladium, cobalt, ticonium, mercury, beryllium, chromium, and silver. At the other end of the spectrum, metals with extremely low rates of allergic patch-test reactions include zinc, ferric chloride, and tin; and those that tend to show no allergic reactions include titanium, vitallium, and aluminum powder.

Skin care and some makeup shades can have gold, nickel or other allergenic metals. If you are allergic to metals, they may not be immediately obvious. Ask your dermatologist to help you understand where trace amounts of metals you are sensitive to might be found. To find a physician in your area who does patch tests, visit contactderm.org.

I’ve heard great things about virgin coconut oil but I saw a website that said

it’s highly comedogenic. Is it?

Virgin coconut oil is many things, but it is not comedogenic. Why the confusion? Comedogenicity is currently controversial in some dermatological circles and it seems that many of the sites online that talk about comedogenicity still refer to the traditional way of testing for it, i.e. animal testing done in the 1960s and 70s on the ears of rabbits (the Rabbit Ear Assay or REA). New research shows that this testing may not be the most reliable — animal testing for skin products in general has strong arguments against it, not just in terms of cruelty but also in terms of accuracy. Side note: VMV does not and has never tested on animals.

Newer comedogenicity tests are done on human skin, sometimes together with acnegenicity testing of the finished product on facial skin for over 4 weeks.

Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos’ and Dr. Albert M. Kligman’s many independent studies, as well as our own clinical studies (actual products on human skin), do not validate the rabbit-ear ingredient studies for the same ingredients. In addition, many of the rabbit’s ear studies were done at very high concentrations of ingredients. For example, ingredients like cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth 20 are simple emulsifiers to mix main ingredients. In actual product formulations, these ingredients are normally present in much less concentrations than those used in the REA tests in the 60s and 70s. Both Dr. Draelos and Dr. Kligman, eminent and widely published dermatologists, prefer human tests as they are based on the actual use of the finished products as well as realistic concentrations of the ingredients in question in these products.

These modern comedogencity tests are what VMV uses for our ingredients and finished products, including our virgin coconut oil. In fact, one of our randomized double-blind studies (the gold standard of clinical studies; see “Beauty Is Proof” on page 15) on the comedogenicity of several oils commonly used in cosmetics was accepted as a poster presentation at the 2013 American Contact Dermatitis Society Meeting. Its conclusion:

¸KLZWP[L�`LHYZ�VM�ILPUN�SPZ[LK�HZ�JVTLKVNLUPJ��PU�9HIIP[�,HY�(ZZH`�YH[PUNZ��·��]PYNPU�JVJVU\[�VPS��^HZ�ZOV^U�[V�IL�UVU�JVTLKVNLUPJ�I`�+/:(��+YHLSVZ�/\THU�:RPU�(ZZH`Z���;OPZ�JVUÄYTZ�^OH[�OHZ�ILLU�ZLLU�PU�JSPUPJZ�[OH[�YLN\SHYS`�\ZL�=*6!�P[�PZ�H�UVU�JVTLKVNLUPJ�

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continued on page 14

/6;�(;�WORK

:205� �),(<;@TIP JUNKIE?

Full, defined brows, warm cheeks and a bold lip up the sex ap-

peal without looking un-professional — a confi-dent, feminine look that’s still appropriate for the office. (H)eyebrow in Deep, Skin Bloom Blush in Pant, and Subtle Shine Lipstick in Big Red.

DON’T MISS OUT ON SKIN & BEAUTY NEWS PLUS VMV PRODUCT LAUNCHES, SPECIALS AND MORE! ENTER YOUR EMAIL IN THE “SKIN-THE-KNOW” FIELD AT VMVHYPOALLERGENICS.COM

vmvhypoallergenics.com | skintelligencenter.com fall 2013 V M V I n S K I N | 5

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 6

GET A PATCH TEST FOR PREVENTION + HEALING

Re-Everything

Baseline

Baseline

Week 4

Week 4

From:

Patient’s own photos

Via:

“Mila”

Email she sent to her dermatologist; with photos she took of herself while healing

To find a doctor in your area who does

patch tests, visit contactderm.org

and click “Find a Physician for Patch

Testing.”

Or, ask your country’s official dermatology

and/or contact dermatitis societies.

PATIENT SUCCESS STORY:

December - 2012

What Worked: After her patch test showed reactions to mint and nickel, Mila switched to Essence Skin-Saving Toothpaste and, for the lips, Boo-Boo Balm. Clarity was achieved in 6 days and has since been maintained.

“Good day, Dr.! Thank you for taking such good care of me.

Attached are photos I took documenting my lips. The boo boo balm helped a lot! And without the patch test, I would never have guessed that I would be allergic to mint and nickel of all things!

Feel free to use the photos to show other patients what patch testing can do! I’m doing great, thank you for asking! :) Although now I’m more careful about the things I touch, use and eat!” - Mila

No.4 (5;0�(.05.p r o v e n a g e f i g h t e r sr e a l i s t i c e x p e c t a t i o n s

Mayo Clinic professor of dermatology Dr. Lawrence Gibson notes, “photoaging is not part of the natural aging process — it’s avoidable.”1 Use sunscreen every day, both indoors and out, all year round. A recent study2 published in the Annals of Internal Medicine proves that daily sunscreen use “protects against photoaging: wrinkling, spotting and loss of elasticity.”1 Why year round? The little exposure you get from crossing the street counts, UVA passes through windows, and indoor lights from computer screens and lamps can cause dark spots which make skin look older.

The benefits of a daily, active regimen are multiple and cumulative, making skin look younger and more vibrant almost immediately, with dramatic results over time, and keeping skin healthier as we age. Actives like unbuffered glycolic acid, retinoic acid, and mandelic acid as well as virgin coconut oil and antioxidants like green tea are some of the best studied and most reliable age fighters. Regular facials do double duty as concentrated treatments and stress reducers (see below). Also, avoid allergens. Irritations stress the skin, which contributes to aging.

Get healthy. Your skin mirrors how your insides are doing. Up the exercise and improve your diet. Load up on fish, nuts, healthy oils, and fresh vegetables. Limit processed, “white”, and pre-packaged food and drinks, and cut out the junk altogether. Get antioxidants from fresh fruits to help combat the oxidative processes that are huge contributors to aging.

Get your z’s and prioritize stress reduction. Stress and lack of sleep (7-8 hours a night is ideal) are more and more linked to inflammation, in turn linked to a myriad of skin and health concerns from depression to obesity, acne, psoriasis, eczema and, yes, aging.

What should I expect with anti-aging treatments?

With an effective anti-aging treatment, you should expect to see, at a minimum, brighter, more vibrant-looking skin. Fine lines should appear less pronounced and possibly deeper wrinkles as well. The skin should feel and appear more firm and youthful. With appropriate concentrations, many people report noticing improvements almost immediately. Continued use and proper prevention can deliver more dramatic results in as little as four weeks. And as with exercise and a healthy lifestyle, consistency continues to pay off.

“mythfoliation”“mythfoliation”

No.3 7(;*/�;,:;05.��307�*(9, ¸ZRPnZPdL¹�o\t heaSth

By Jennifer Roberge,

ItchyLittleWorld.com

Could Certain FoodsBe Causing Your Itchy Skin?

So, you have dry, itchy skin. You slather on some cream to help with the dryness, but the itching is

relentless and the dryness just comes back. What gives?

1. http://ww

w.acaai.org/allergist/allergies/children-allergies/Pages/eczem

a-in-children.aspx2. http://fooddrugallergy.ucla.edu/body.cfm

?id=39.

If your skin is prone to itching or is dry and red, inflamed, scaling, or oozing, common symptoms of eczema, then it’s possible food allergies or intolerances are at least part of the problem. According to the American Col-

lege of Allergy, Asthma, and Immunology “Eczema, also known as “atopic dermatitis,” is often associ-ated with food allergy; approximately 37 percent of young children with moderate to severe eczema also have food allergies.”1

And the UCLA Food & Drug Allergy Care Center states,

¸(IV\[�H�[OPYK�VM�JOPSKYLU�^P[O�TVKLYH[L�[V�ZL]LYL�LJaLTH�L_WLYPLUJL�HJ\[L�^VYZLUPUN�VM�[OLPY�JOYVUPJ�YHZOLZ�^OLU�[OL`�PUNLZ[�

[YPNNLY�MVVKZ�¹1The numbers for adults are not readily available, but should be similar.

Common eczema food triggers are dairy, eggs, gluten, soy, peanuts (and other legumes), but other foods such as those in the nightshade fam-ily (bell peppers, eggplants, etc.) and acidic foods (tomatoes, oranges, etc.) can also further aggra-vate eczema and itchy skin. Keep in mind, these

are common triggers, but any food or even spice, can cause an allergy or intolerance. Many people think because they don’t see an immediate reac-tion after consuming one of these foods that the food must not be an issue for them. While imme-diate skin reactions to a food are usually labeled as a true allergic response and can include hives and itching among other symptoms, delayed reac-tions, considered an intolerance or sensitivity, are also possible and can occur up to 48 hours after a food is consumed. The source of an immediate re-action is much easier to identify, but with delayed reactions you would have to review every single ingredient in the food you’d eaten in the past two days to try to determine what caused the reaction. Quite an undertaking.

So, how can you determine if food is triggering your eczema or itchy skin?

Sadly, false positives and negatives are common with blood and skin allergy testing (IgE), as well as intolerance testing (IgG), making them very unreli-able when used alone. However, when combined with your history of reactions or an elimination diet and food challenge, the mystery begins to unravel. For example, you can temporarily remove the foods from your diet that appeared positive in allergy testing, this is called an elimination diet.* It’s best to meet with a dietician about your restricted diet as they can help ensure you’re get-ting the proper nutrients during this time. Then ask your allergist to help you conduct an in-office food challenge, consuming small amounts of the foods in question in a controlled medical setting and monitoring for any reaction. Remember to be on the lookout for delayed reactions after you’ve returned home. If you discover one or more foods trigger your eczema, you should find relief by eliminating the foods from your diet as much as possible. If a food does not cause an immediate or delayed reaction, certainly add the food back into your diet and enjoy.

If you’ve eliminated the foods that were triggering your dry, itchy skin, but your eczema hasn’t fully improved, consider moving to natural, pH bal-anced laundry and household cleaning products, moisturizing soaps, and identify any seasonal or environmental triggers that may still be plaguing your skin. And remember stress is often a huge trigger for eczema. Try to reduce stress with calm-ing activities like yoga, deep breathing, and medi-tation.

Everyone’s eczema triggers are different, but once you’ve found yours, you’ll be well on your way to healthy, beautiful skin.

*Editor’s Note: The process of the elimination diet is similar to the “7-Day Skin Fast” we frequently recom-mend at VMV to safely try products on sensitive skin or skin recovering from a reaction.

Jennifer Roberge is a mother of

two. She blogs about her family’s

battles with eczema, allergies, and

asthma at It’s an Itchy Little World. [http://itchylittleworld.com]

After conquering her son’s severe

eczema, she founded The Eczema Company [http://Eczemacompany.

com], which offers specialty

clothing and natural, non-toxic

skin care for eczema.

“skintel”

Approximately 37% of young children with moderate to severe eczema also have food allergies

1. CN

N.com

. http://edition.cnn.com/2013/06/04/health/sunscreen-aging

2. Sunscreen and Prevention of Skin Aging: A

Randomized Trial. M

aria Celia B. H

ughes, MM

edSci; Gail M

. William

s, PhD; Peter Baker,

PhD; and A

dèle C. G

reen, MBBS, PhD

. Ann Intern M

ed. 2013;158(11):781-790. doi:10.7326/0003-4819-158-11-201306040-00002.

vmvhypoallergenics.com | skintelligencenter.com fall 2013 V M V I n S K I N | 7

HOW TO.WING IT!

Cat-Eye(SS�V]LY�[OL�Y\U^H`�^L�ZH^�IVSK��^PUNLK�L`LSPULY�YLTPUPZJLU[�VM�� ��»Z�ÄST�ZPYLUZ��

(SZV�RUV^U�HZ�¸;OL�*H[�,`L¹�[OPZ�[LJOUPX\L�PZ�H�[YLUK�[OH[»Z�OLYL�[V�Z[H �̀� 0U[PTPKH[LK&�+VU»[�IL��>L�IYLHR�KV^U�[OL�IHZPJZ�MVY�`V\�VU�WHNL���

TipFor even more “wow”

use excess mascara from the tip of

your Ooh-La Lash! Mascara wand and

apply with an angled brush. You can use this

to intensify the line you’ve just created!” -

Jessica, VMV Makeup Artist & Esthetician

An understated, wispy Cat Eye is universally flattering and goes a long way towards brightening tired eyes. Worn with no bottom liner, the top lid takes center stage giving the face a fresh, well-slept appearance. 8AM meeting? Bring it on!

First, prep your lid with a touch of Skin-The-Bluff Concealer in the shade that best matches your skin tone. This will prime the area ensuring a greater deposit of pigment and longer lasting wear time.

On lips: go bold or go home! This eye is bold but clean and works beautifully against a power red like Velvet Matte

Lipstick in Va-Va-Voom, Light My Fire or Castigada. Or, mix it up as we did here: classic Subtle Shine Lipstick in Big Red topped with Lip Gloss in Tango.

For the complete Cat-Eye Tutorial, see page 8.

SKINTRODUCING.

ALL NEW

MAKEUP REMOVERS

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GET THESE LOOKS

After your SuperSkin Care Moisturizer (page 3), spot treat “quirks in progress” with Skin-The-Bluff. This insanely smooth concealer is light enough to warm seamlessly into skin, yet opaque enough for ample coverage. Yellow “No More Blues” counteracts brown/blue undertones (tah-tah, under-eye circles!); “Red Alert” neutralizes red from flushed cheeks or active breakouts.

Fill in brows with (H)eyebrow Eye &

Brow Liner. Use light, short strokes. Stipple powder into sparse areas. Even a subtle touch-up will add symmetry and drama. Brighten up eyes with the golden hue in “Life’s a Beach” Two True Hues Eyeshadow

Duo (recently featured in Vogue!). Buff onto entire lid working outward.

Finish with a deep burgundy lip. Subtle Shine Lipstick in “Smoulder” is a constant favorite! Dot lightly over Boo-Boo Balm for a light stain or go deep, dark, dramatic.

Makeup Tutorial: MODERN MINIMALIST

from page 3

from page 9

Gentle and softening, with organic virgin coconut oil for unrivaled moisturization (its fatty acids are native to skin). Skin-enriching coconut-derived fatty acids provide additional anti-inflammatory moisturization. Soothes + hydrates while completely removing makeup. Great for heavy, frequent use.

Makeup Remover: MAKEUP REMOVING OIL

After prepping the lid with Skin-The-Bluff Concealer, wet the bristles of your Skintelligent

Beauty Eye Definer Brush with water and dip into the darkest shade of (H)eyebrow Eye

& Brow Liner in “Brown”. This creates a wonderfully pigmented paste that works like a liquid liner. Gently rest the brush at the base of your lashes near the outer corner of the eye and begin to stipple the color into the lash line. Focus on narrowing the line as you work inward toward the nose. Concentrate on staying close to the natural line of your lashes. This enhances your eye shape while staying soft. Now that you’ve got your liner in place, again rest the brush at the outer corner of eye (the tapered tip of the brush should point inward toward your nose) and softly drag the line outward following the curvature of your lid. Symmetry is key and takes some practice! You can continue to add thickness to the line depending on your desired look. Explore different methods from feathery light and wispy, to dramatically exaggerated (and every line in between)!

Makeup Tutorial: CAT-EYE

Easy and swift make-up removal that’s rapid, no-rinse, non-drying, and non-irritating. This oil-free formulation effortlessly erases eye + face makeup in a few quick swipes. Soft and easy on skin. With hydrating glycerin to moisturize while removing makeup and green tea for antioxidant benefits. Great for daily, no-nonsense use!

Makeup Remover: QUICK & COMPLETE

PR

ETTY S

MA

RT

vmvhypoallergenics.com | skintelligencenter.com fall 2013 V M V I n S K I N | 9

Bardot

PRETTY IN PINK

soft + flirty eyes bright cheeks strawberry pout breast cancer research support!

6J[VILY�PZ�5H[PVUHS�)YLHZ[�*HUJLY�(^HYLULZZ�4VU[O��-YVT�TH\]L�[V�YVZL��ÅHTPUNV�[V�M\JOZPH��ZOV^�`V\Y�Z\WWVY[�I`�PUJVYWVYH[PUN�WYL[[`�WPURZ�PU[V�`V\Y�KHPS`�HWWSPJH[PVU�

TipPinks make your skin

look younger and fresher! If you have strong red undertones or rosacea,

start with a red-canceling green concealer like Skin-

The-Bluff in Red Alert then choose coral-tinged pinks. Otherwise, you’re spoiled with a choice of

skin-flattering pinks!

Get skin naturally bright and vibrant, too! Try our brightening Iluminants+ daily regimen with monthly Brightening Vx Facials.

Cheeks: From apple picking to the apples of your cheeks, fall is ripe with warm colors! Another award winner, Skin Bloom Blush (Best Blush, Prevention magazine) has a variety of pinks to choose from. For a punchy “pop” of color, try “Georgia!” (top left).

Lips: For a natural daytime application, try Subtle Shine Lipstick in Strawberry Fields (bottom left). Popular among brides for its delicate color and satin finish, this is a go-to shade for all. Want a deeper, jewel-toned pout for evening? Try Copa (bottom right) or a bright Lip Gloss like Cabaret (top right)! Apply with our Skintelligent Beauty Lip Brush for meticulous precision.

Eyes: Two True Hues Eyeshadow Duo in “Bardot” (as seen in Vogue). Soft and flirty, this duo is the perfect combination and transitions well from office to after-hours. Use the charcoal half as a contour color for added depth.

All October, get one of our most popular gifts in support of Breast Cancer Awareness Research! As if this perfectly-sized, plush pink pouch in faux suede weren’t enough, it comes with travel sizes of some of our most popular products. Yours free with your qualified purchase. Plus, we donate a portion of all “pink” product purchases to breast cancer research. For details, follow us on Facebook and Twitter (see back flap for details).

)965A,�.6++,::dewy, glowing skin bronzer + blush warm, copper lips tons of lashes

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Tip“Lips feeling chapped? Use a dab of Grandma

Minnie’s The Big, Brave Boo Boo Balm

as a primer before applying lipstick”

- Jessica, VMV Makeup Artist and

Esthetician

Start with clear skin: Id Complete Clarifying Kit banishes bumps on face, chest, shoulders, back and body. Prep with an even layer of Skintangible “Faint”ation SPF 30. This ultra-light, protective BBBB Cream (“BB-But-Better”!) is packed with free radical-fighting antioxidants and leaves the skin looking sublimely fresh. Apply with the Skintelligent Beauty Foundation Brush for flawless blending or a latex-free cosmetic sponge. Next, combine your favorite daily moisturizer (Creammmy Rich Moisture Milk works nicely) with Tarte-à-Tan Antioxidant Bronzing “Coco” Powder. Simply mixing these two products together (using the back of your hand as a palette) creates a fabulous crème bronzing cocktail with skin-hydrating benefits! Dot sparingly directly under the apples of your cheeks and blend upward toward the brow bone for sun-kissed contouring. To complete the look: Ooh-La-Lash! Mascara — pump up the volume with two coats — then “Beet It” Subtle Shine Lipstick, a non-drying, dye-free, coppery shade that goes on like butter! Still missing the sun? Top it off with Lip Gloss in Explicit for a complex, cheerful hue and luxurious resort-worthy finish.

Living with children with allergic conditions

CAREGIVER STRESS

SYNDROMEStress is challenging for anyone and when caring for

someone with chronic allergic conditions it can be

debilitating. We found this helpful article on one of our

favorite sites — ItchyLittleWorld.com (“eczema, allergies and

asthma…oh my!”) — by clinical psychologist Dr. Tiffany Taft

who emphasizes the need to care for ourselves so that we

can more healthily, happily and effectively care for others.

Questions? Email Dr. Taft at TTaft@opbmed.com and follow Oak Park

Behavioral Medicine on Facebook and Twitter: OPBMed

Ask any parent of a child with a chronic illness if they experience stress and I suspect that they’d look at you like you were a bit off your rocker. Of course caring for a child with an illness comes with stress, and this stress can impact the whole household. But what is “stress,” exactly? And more specifically, what is “caregiver stress”

and how does it relate to things like illness symptoms, its treatment, and the quality of the lives of those affected by the illness? Researchers across the globe have focused efforts on understanding parent-caregiver stress, with many studies on parents of children living with allergic conditions such as asthma, food allergies, and eczema. My personal research is with parents of children affected by Eosinophilic Gastrointestinal Disorders (EGIDs) such as eosinophilic esophagitis.

Before I continue, I should say that stress isn’t always a bad thing. It can be a great motivator. But there is a tipping point where stress becomes a burden on our mental and physical resources, making doing the simplest tasks feel like climbing a mountain. It’s when stress passes this line, which may be different for you than the parent sitting next to you, that we see many negative effects.

So what do we know about caregiver stress, in general? We know we can categorize caregiver stress four ways:

1. Communication, such as explaining your child’s food allergies to others.

2. Emotional functioning, such as worrying about the long term impact of asthma.

3. Managing Medical Care, including making decisions about what eczema medication your child will take.

4. Role functioning, such as attending to the needs of your other children or spouse.

This may seem to over-simplify individual experiences, but it helps us ensure everyone who is researching caregiver stress is measuring the same thing so we can make meaningful comparisons.

Researchers have identified something called “Caregiver Stress Syndrome” which is characterized by grief, anxiety and feelings of helplessness.

People with Caregiver Stress Syndrome may also experience insomnia (rates as high as 86%) and fatigue related to taking care of an ill loved one. These symptoms result from both acute, or immediate, stress such as a serious flare up in symptoms requiring hospitalization and chronic, long term, stress from managing day-to-day tasks like taking medications or calling doctor’s offices for test results.

When we survey parents experiencing caregiver stress we hear that they engage in fewer enjoyable activities, socialize less, and engage in less self-care. Parents also report more personal health concerns, depression, marriage issues, and family discord. In other words, the quality of their life is reduced significantly. We know that children who live with allergic conditions tend to report greater impact on their daily life than children with other chronic illnesses which may, in part, be due to a feeling of “living with risk” that is inherent in many of these conditions – and a feeling most likely shared by their parents.

Here are some of the things parents of children with allergic conditions tell us:

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\ZPUN�[\IL�MLLKPUNZ�In parents of children with food allergies, 41% report significant caregiver stress, 49% state that food allergy reduces the family’s social activities, and 34% report reduced school attendance. The majority also report a significant impact on family meals.

continued on page 14

“mythfoliation”

No.5 +9@�/(09�:*(37��*9,(4�;@7,:c r e a m , l o t i o n o r s e r u m ?When should I use a serum, lotion or cream?

These terms have no strict technical or regulatory definition. Any emulsion (mix of oil and water) can be called a serum, lotion or cream. In cosmetics, they generally connote viscosity — serum, lotion and cream from thinnest to thickest, respectively — and the judgement of thickness can be relative. One mixture could be a “cream”; but if it is thinner than another cream yet not as thin as a “serum” it could be called a “lotion”. For example, VMV’s Illuminants+ Cream: Primary Brilliance Treatment might be considered a serum if compared to a much thicker cream like the “cold creams” of the 1950s. Next to Re-Everything Eye Serum, however, which is much thinner, or the Face-Hand-Body Lotion (thicker than the Eye Serum but not as thick as the face treatment) Illuminants+ Cream would be considered a cream.

What determines the thickness of a formulation? It could be a brand’s preference — its customers could be looking for something rich or lightweight. Viscosity could also be dictated by the formulation itself. Actives and ingredients blend better or worse, or are more or less stable, in different bases.

Thickness can be important for conditions like eczema or rosacea that need the barrier repair of occlusive products. Otherwise, prioritize: the specific actives in a product, the concentrations of those actives, and the lack of allergens, irritants and comedogens in the rest of the formulation are more important than the product’s viscosity.

d r y h a i r o r d r y s c a l p ?What do I do for dry hair or scalp?

Dry hair and dry scalp are different conditions. Dry scalp is usually the result of chronic contact dermatitis or a reaction to common allergens in hair care or styling products such as “amidoamine” surfactants (cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamide-dea), dyes, fragrances or preservatives. Dry scalp can also be caused by the overgrowth of a resident fungus within hair follicles called pityrosporum which may thrive after one has taken oral antibiotics, or after using anti-bacterial shampoos and hair products. Treating dry scalp can be as simple as avoiding products with allergens and applying lotions with non-irritating anti-fungals such as monolaurin into the scalp. Grandma

Minnie’s Oil’s Well is a good option because it is a pure virgin coconut oil with monolaurin. Virgin coconut oil is excellent for hair — there is a reason it is an ingredient in so many intensive hair conditioners — and monolaurin is an excellent, non-allergenic, coconut-derived antifungal.

Dry hair is generally a result of physical injury to the hair shaft. Some common culprits: harsh shampoos such as some anti-dandruff shampoos; frequent hair color stripping and/or dyeing; or regular hair curling, heating or straightening treatments. Very gentle care is required to reduce the stress on stretched hair shafts or broken cuticles. Before shampooing, try applying plain petroleum jelly or The Big, Brave Boo-

Boo Balm to keep harsh ingredients or detergents from getting into breaks in the hair shaft. As with dry scalp, opt for a very gentle shampoo such as Essence Clark Wash that is free of ingredients that can potentially break down hair such as dyes, fragrance, and preservatives. Use a very rich but non-irritating conditioner, and virgin coconut oil for repair.

n a t u r a l i s n o t a s y n o n y m f o r h y p o a l l e r g e n i cMy skin is super sensitive, so I need to use only natural products right?

Actually, you may need to avoid them. Natural does not mean hypoallergenic. In fact, the opposite is frequently true. Many natural ingredients are highly allergenic: fragrance oils, beeswax, fruit and flower extracts, etc. Furthermore, their level of “naturalness” does not make them less allergenic. It is similar to

foods: if you are allergic to peanuts, bee stings, dairy, mangoes, wheat or strawberries, it does not matter how natural or organic they are, you must avoid them.

No.6 5 (; < 9 ( 3 $ � : ( - , &

1 0 0 % n a t u r a l z e r o c h e m i c a l sc h e m i c a l s = a l l e r g e n s

I only use 100% natural.

This could be the goal, but it is difficult to achieve. Almost anything in nature needs some type of processing (frequently chemicals for extraction or to allow them to be mixed, stabilized or preserved) to be used in skin care. The term “natural” is not currently regulated so it is almost impossible to confirm how natural a product is or its ingredients are, or how much processing was done to those ingredients.

I won’t use anything with chemicals.

The line between “natural” and chemical is difficult to draw. Everything in nature is composed of chemical elements (see the periodic table) and has a chemical structure (water is hydrogen and oxygen). Even if an ingredient is truly “raw,” processing can yield surprising results. For example, the distillation process to make essential oils can create chemicals that did not exist in the raw plant.

I’m allergic to chemicals.

“Chemicals” can mean almost anything, including “natural” ingredients; and many natural ingredients are highly allergenic. It could be that you are allergic to common allergens. The most common allergens (substances more likely to cause an allergic reaction) are determined systematically in patch tests on thousands of people in different countries and are published regularly. If you have a history of reactions, ask your dermatologist for a patch test.

12 | V M V I n S K I N fall 2013 vmvhypoallergenics.com | skintelligencenter.com vmvhypoallergenics.com | skintelligencenter.com fall 2013 V M V I n S K I N | 13

PROOFPOSITIVE

BEAUTY IS “PROOF”, PROOF BEAUTY Slightly tweaked, Keats’ famous lines are an ode to that gold standard of scientific validity: the randomized, double-

blind, evidence-based clinical study — which we have always done. Our investigative studies are as scientifically

robust and impressively so. One published study is eyebrow-raising; we have over 75. In the hyperbolic world of

cosmetics, true beauty lies in evidence. Put your faith in double blind ... far better than flying blind.

“Clinically tested” can mean lots of things. Some tests are more subjective, mainly consisting of people sharing their thoughts about a product (“99 out of 100 women say they saw an 80% reduction in wrinkles”). Others use qualitative data like before-and-after photos. Such photographs can be helpful but are generally considered to be less conclusive than quantitative data such as objective measurements of certain biological aspects of the skin using specialized equipment. Rare in cosmetics, double-blind, randomized trials with quantitative data are standard in prescription pharmaceuticals. And at VMV.

“Evidence-based” is in our safety as much as our efficacy. Our VH-Rating System, the only hypoallergenic “grading” system of its kind, was published in the leading journal on contact dermatitis and is proven to be effective at increasing customer safety, showing less than 0.1% reported reactions in 30 years. A new patch test study with multiple VMV products on hundreds of subjects showed zero irritant and allergic reactions, even in conditions allowing for greater contact of products on the skin and expected to produce reactions earlier and faster than normal. Another study on the non-comedogenicity of virgin coconut oil (page 4) was presented at the American Contact Dermatitis Society (ACDS) meeting.

Our daily reality includes research, investigative and case studies, too, such as on nutrition and acne, psoriasis, and pemphigus vulgaris. Our study on mycosis fungoides (a type of cancer of the immune system) was also presented at the ACDS. Such research is not cosmetic, but it adds to our understanding of the skin, diseases, treatments, and treatment mechanisms. This knowledge contributes directly to how we develop all our products — from cosmeceuticals to basic care and even makeup.

One published study is a major achievement, unusual for cosmetics. We have over 75. We might be a skin health and beauty brand, but proof is our business.

The SAFEST, MOST EFFECTIVE Care On The Planet.proven!

>

VMV CARES| CHECK OUT our carefully curated CARE PACKAGES and ULTRA-GENTLE

PRODUCTS for ECZEMA, PSORIASIS, BREAST CANCER and other

DELICATE CONDITIONS that benefit from “SKINTENSIVE” CARE. |

Parents of children with asthma often report a sense of loss of self, fatigue, and exhaustion. Interestingly, depression and parent stress predict increases in their child’s asthma symptoms (inflammation) regardless of the child’s psychological state.

46% of parents of children with EGIDs report significant anxiety and 28% experience symptoms of depression. Parent mental health predicted caregiver stress more than the child’s illness severity or treatments.

When comparing both parents, mothers of children with food allergies report a greater negative effect on their quality of life, more anxiety and caregiver stress than fathers.

This is a very important topic and I’ve only covered a tiny portion of what’s at play in the lives of children living with allergic conditions and the parents who care for them. The take-home point of this post is that being a caregiver is stressful, and while that stress may motivate you to seek the best treatment and opportunities for your child, it’s vital to check-in with yourself and evaluate if stress has crossed that line into negatively affecting your life. How is your mental well-being? Your sleep? Your support system? How do you cope with stress and does it help? If you conclude that you’re feeling overwhelmed, you may want to consider help from a professional with expertise in helping parent-caregivers cope. We must take care of ourselves before we can take care of others.

Dr. Tiffany Taft is a licensed clinical psychologist who specializes in the

psychology of chronic illness. She is co-owner of Oak Park Behavioral Medicine

LLC, a private practice near Chicago, where she works with children and adults with chronic conditions. Dr. Taft is also an Assistant Professor at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine,

where she worked in the division of gastroenterology for 8 years doing research

and seeing clients with chronic digestive conditions. She published the first study evaluating caregiver stress in parents of children with EGIDs, as well as several

other studies on the psychology and social effects of chronic digestive illness. Dr. Taft

is a 2009 graduate from the Chicago School of Professional Psychology and is an active member of the Crohn’s & Colitis Foundation of America, including volunteering at Camp Oasis – a summer camp for children affected

by Crohn’s Disease and Ulcerative Colitis.

continued from Caregiver Stress Syndrome, page 13

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TRUTH BE TOLD!Is Coconut Oil Comedogenic? What’s The Difference

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SKIN & MORE: Eczema & Food, Plus

Caregiver Stress Syndrome

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