Slide 1 C H A P T E R T W O - Lalon Alexander

Slide 1

C H A P T E R T W O

THE ANCIENT MIDDLE EAST

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c. 3500 – 600 BC

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Slide 2

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

2C H A P T E R T W OTHE ANCIENT MIDDLE EASTC. 3500 – 600 BC

Map of the Ancient Middle East

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Early Sumerian: 3500-2500 BC

Later Sumerian and Babylonian: 2500-1000 BC

Assyrian: 100-600 BC

Mesopotamia, site of the first civilizations in the Middle East:

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Evidence for costume is mostly visual. What do we know?

Sumerian Gold Wig-Helmet

Sumerian Painted Jar

Sumerian Figure

Sumerian Cylinder Seal

Sumerian Tablet

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3500-2500 BC: Early Sumerian men and women wore wrapped skirts, which they held in place with wide belts.

Sumerian man and woman in kaunakes type garments

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At first , skirts were probably made from sheepskin with fleece attached. Later, woven cloth had fringe at the bottom to imitate

tufts of wool on fleece.

The Greek word, kaunakes, has been applied to this fleece or fleece like fabric.

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Cloaks provided protection against the weather. They were probably made from animal skins, leather, or heavy, felted cloth.

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• Men shaved their hair or wore it long, were bearded or clean-shaven.

• Women arranged their hair in a chignon or bun.• Soldiers wore pointed helmets, perhaps made of leather.

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• Later Sumerian and Babylonia: 2500-1000 BC styles evolved slowly.

• Gradually styles increased in complexity.

• Men and women’s styles show greater differences.

• Women’s dress now covers upper body.

• Kaunakes garment becomes associated with religious figures.

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Rulers c. 2100 BC were shown in wrapped garment and distinctive headdress.

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Tunics were worn by men and women.

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Shawls, woven rectangles or squares of fabric, were draped in various ways. Two possible arrangements of women’s dress as

analyzed by Houston(1964).

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Before 2300 BC, men are shown both clean-shaven and with beards. Later men are depicted only with beards.

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Assyrian leaders adopted the styles of the Babylonians and added to their decoration. Tunics replaced skirts and draped

garments.

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Royalty wore floor length tunics under long, fringed shawls that created horizontal, vertical, and diagonal arrangement of fringes.

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Men were bearded, the hair and beard arranged in small curls perhaps made with curling irons. The King’s beard was longer than that of other men, and supplemented with a false section.

Lower-class men had shorter beards and hair.

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Assyrian women’s tunics had somewhat longer sleeves than men’s. Fabrics were elaborately patterned. Women also wore

fringed shawls draped around the body.

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Accessories of Note:

• Among the hat styles was a high brimless hat similar to the Fez or Tarbush, a modern-day, traditional Arab style.

• Sandals had thicker or thinner soles.• Earrings, bracelets, and armlets were worn. Decorative

motifs used for jewelry often resembled those seen on pattern fabrics.

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• Soldiers wore a short tunic, a corselet of mail, and a wide belt.

• The mail was probably made by sewing small metal plates onto leather or heavy cloth.

• Helmets fit the head closely, coming to a peaked point at the back of the head.

• Both sandals and high boots were worn.

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Earlier hairstyles for Assyrian women are elaborately arranged. Later styles were simplified to curly, shoulder-length hair.

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Old Kingdom: 2620 – 2260 BC

Middle Kingdom: c. 2134 -1786 BC

New Kingdom: 1575 -1087 BC

The Egyptian civilization grew up along the Nile River.

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Most garments were woven from linen.

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The undermost garment was a loin cloth. It might be the only garment worn by slaves and the poor.

Click on the image to zoom in on loincloth

Click to visit Archaeology Magazine’s Interactive Dig Website that discusses “the anatomy of a loincloth”.

Be sure to click on all the pictures in this website as they enlarge.

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Over this, man might place a wrapped skirt, called by costume historians either a schenti, shent, skent, or schent.

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Skirt length, width, and fit varied with different time periods and social class.

• Old Kingdom: the skirt was generally knee length or shorter, and fitted closely around the hips.

• Middle Kingdom: skirt elongated, sometimes reaching to the ankle, with shorter versions for work. If fabric was sheer, the loincloth is visible beneath the skirt.

• New Kingdom: the styles have pleated skirts, both shorter examples which tend to fit more closely, and long skirts that are quite full.

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Aprons were worn over a skirt or other garment, or over a loin cloth and under a skirt. Large, triangular decorative panels are located at

the front of some skirts.

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Upper body coverings included real or simulated animal skins, thought to convey the power of the animal to the wearer.

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During the Middle and New Kingdoms, short fabric capes fastened at center front."

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A corselet was another type of upper body covering.

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A wide necklace made from concentric circles of precious or semi-precious stones might be worn alone, over a linen gown, over a short

cape, or with a corselet.

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Many garments were worn by both men and women. Slaves and working class women wore skirts.

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Beginning in the New Kingdom, men and women wore tunics, called kalasiris or calasiris.

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Also, during the New Kingdom, men and women wore sheer pleated gowns.

Click on image to demonstrate wrapping.

Click on image to demonstrate wrapping.

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Men and women wore wrapped garments throughout Egyptian history."

Click on an image to demonstrate wrapping.

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Women also wore a tight-fitting colorful dress, often called a sheath dress.Research suggests this was a wrapped garment with a bead net dress

worn over it.

Click the image to apply bead net dress over the wrapped

garment.

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One commonly worn garment for women was v-necked dress, with or without sleeves.

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Many Egyptians had shaved heads; men were clean-shaven. Beards were a symbol of power, and both male and female pharaohs wore a small false

beard."

Statue of Hatshepsut with her fake beard.

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Upper class Egyptians wore wigs.

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Pharaohs to symbolize rule over upper EgyptRulers from the Old to the New Kingdom; a scarf like construction that completely covered the head, was fitted across the temple, hanging down to the shoulder behind the ears, and with a long tail at center back that symbolized a lion’s tail; the shape of the Nemes head covering is similar to a simple, scarf like head covering owned by the Metropolitan Museum (See Figure 2.13 in the textbook)

Pharaohs to symbolize rule over Lower and Upper Egypt; consisted of a combination of the crowns of lower and upper Egypt

Pharaohs who used it only rarely, on ceremonial occasions, possibly because it was so awkward and unwieldy

Pharaohs to symbolize military power or when going to war’ in the New Kingdom, this headdress was more often worn that the double crown’ made of molded leather and decorated with gold sequins, it had a uraeus at the center front.

Kings and queens; a representation of a cobra, which was a symbol of royal power; could be worn on a headband, or as part of another headdress

Queens or goddesses; shaped like a bird of prey with the wings falling down at the side of the head and framing the face

Children of the royal familyAppears on depictions of Queen Nefertiti, a New Kingdom queen, who apparently wore this head covering over a shaved head.

White crown of Upper EgyptPschent crown of Lower and Upper EgyptHemhemet crownBlue or war crownUraeusFalcon or vulture headdressNemes HeaddressFlat crownLock of Youth

Headdress was ceremonial and/or symbolic.

Name of Style:

Worn by:

Red Crown of Lower Egypt

Pharaohs to symbolize rule over lower Egypt

Click on the image to advance to the next example.

Last Example

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Make-up served both cosmetic and health purposes.

Queen Nefertiti

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Slide 41



Accessories of Note

Sandals Jewelry

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For Further Study

Photographs Of Artifacts www.louvre.fr/louvrea.htm (search under virtual tour) www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.aspwww.ancientegypt.co.uk/menu.html

Recommended References And Links On Mesopotamiahttp://www.costumegallery.com/Mesopotamia/ancient.htmhttp://www.mesopotamia.co.uk/menu.html

Exhibition Of Objects From Urhttp://mcclungmuseum.utk.edu/specex/ur/ur.htm

Egyptian Dresshttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/egypt1.htmhttp://www.dragonstrike.com/egypt/cloth.htm

Ancient Egyptian Lifehttp://homepage.powerup.com.au/~ancient/life1.htm

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For Further Study

Other Web Sites Useful For Ancient Egypthttp://www.reshafim.org.il/ad/egypt/index.htmlhttp://nefertiti.iwebland.com/timelines/topics/flax.htmhttp://www.ancientegyptiancostumes.freeservers.com/http://www.sis.gov.eg/pharo/html/dressfrm.htm

Drawings Showing The Structure Of Mesopotamian And Egyptian CostumeHouston, M. G. 1964. Ancient Egyptian, Mesopotamian, and Persian Costume. Mineola, NY:

Dover Publications.Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. 1997. Pharaonic Egyptian Clothing. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J.

Brill.

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Slide 44



Image Credits

Painting of Mesopotamian City, courtesy of the Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago.

Sumerian Figure, courtesy of Prewitt Allen Archaeological Museum, Corban College.

Sumerian Tablet, courtesy of Kyle Pope, [http://ancientroad.home.att.net/Sumerian1.JPG, 7/7/05].

Sumerian Figure 2, courtesy of Kyle Pope, [http://ancientroad.home.att.net/Sumerian2.JPG, 7/7/05].

Image of the Green Nile, courtesy of David Haberlah, [http://www.davidhaberlah.de/galleries/catr/pages/ca_011.html, 7/7/05].

Image of the Temple of Menna, courtesy of Jon Bodsworth.

Images of the Temple of Sennefer, courtesy of Jon Bodsworth.

Image of Egyptian Sandal, courtesy of The University of Tennessee, The Frank H. McClung Museum, [http://mcclungmuseum.utk.edu/permex/egypt/eg-sandl.jpg, 7/7/05].

Various images in this chapter courtesy of Fairchild Library and [www.clipart.com, 7/26/05].

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Slide 1 C H A P T E R T W O - Lalon Alexander