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A premium publication, focusing on the fine spectrum of wines, craft beers and premium spirits. Each issue of SoVino incorporates seasonal lifestyle editorial including profiles of prominent wine regions and wine-makers, commentary with industry experts, decadent meal recipes with wine matching suggestions, and exclusive reviews for the wine aficionado.
Citation preview
a guide for lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
spring issue 2014. exclusive to independent liquor retailers.
Beautiful bubbles
Add some fizz to spring racingcelebrations
Doing it their way
Why Neil and Andrew Pike arewinning awards
Clare Valley
Take a tour through Rieslingcountry
Created by Coordinate for Independent Liquor Retailers Pty Ltd localliquor.com.au
Editor: Jan OConnell Project Manager: Angie RajCreative Direction and Design: Javier SteelCover Photography and Styling: Tess Godkin
Advertising and editorial enquiries contact:
Samantha WatsonT 1300 408 399 F 02 6230 4278E [email protected]
Unit 67/12 Challis Street, Dickson ACT 2602 PO Box 157, Dickson ACT 2602
Products and prices throughout this magazine are available only at participating stores.
Editors letter .............................................................................2
Your Food and Wine Calendar .................................................3
Regional food and wine events to check out this spring.
Beautiful Bubbles .....................................................................4
Exploding some myths about our favourite sparkling.
Drink This With That .................................................................6
Recipes: Spiced Pork Belly and Sticky Fig Pudding.
Doing it their way ....................................................................10
Pikes Wines: two brothers following their heritage.
Meet the Locals ......................................................................14
Coonamble Cellars: NSW Liquor Retailer of the Year.
Riesling Country .....................................................................18
Clare Valley: a rich past and a bright future.
Bring Your Own .......................................................................22
Discovering craft beers and great regional wines.
New Product Spotlight ...........................................................25
Spirited mixes for the cocktail hour.
Features
Stone & Wood Ale .......................................................................8
Jacob's Creek Double Barrel Range ..........................................12
Petaluma Wines ........................................................................16
Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne ....................................................20
Apple Truck Cider ......................................................................26
Licor 43 .....................................................................................28
Grey Goose Vodka ....................................................................30
Editors Letter
Perhaps the most famous quote about champagne Come quickly, I am tasting the stars is
attributed to Dom Perignon, the Benedictine monk widely credited with inventing the French
bubbly. Sadly, its all a myth. Champagne as we know it didnt appear for a couple of centuries
after Dom Perignon died and the quote first appeared in an advertisement in the late 19th century.
No matter who coined the phrase, it does capture some of the magic of those bubbles. With the
Spring Racing Carnival upon us and Christmas looming, a good many of us will be tasting the
stars, so in this issue were looking at champagne and its Australian equivalents. In the process,
we explode a few more myths.
What else are we drinking as the weather warms? Perhaps a nice cold white? Recent research
has shown that Riesling is becoming Australias favourite white, ahead of Chardonnay and
Sauvignon Blanc. So in this issue we travel to the Clare Valley in South Australia, perhaps
Australias stand-out region for Riesling. Still in the Clare Valley, well meet winemaker Neil Pike
and his viticulturalist brother Andrew, the team behind the 2013 Pikes Traditionale Riesling,
named Australias best at the most recent Canberra International Riesling Challenge.
But wait, theres more. Whether your spring tipple is beer, wine or even the odd cocktail, youll
find some new ideas here. And if youre not into racing, there are plenty of food and wine events
to keep you occupied check out our calendar.
Jan OConnell
Editor
editors letter
2 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
spring calendar
Your Food and Wine Calendar
as the days get longer and our spirits lift, its time for some serious eating and drinking.
11
Hunter Valley Wine Festival
Enjoy the extensive array of local wine,
food, beer and cider on offer at this one-day
festival at Lovedale in the heart of the Hunter.
huntervalleywinefestival.com
17 - 19
Coonawarra Cabernet
CelebrationsWeekend
Enjoy the family-friendly Cabernet Festival
marketplace, plus the famous Cabernet
masterclass, retrospective tasting, grand
banquet and rare wine auction.
coonawarra.org
17 - 2
Orange Wine Festival
Orange Wine Festival, formerly known as
Orange Wine Week, highlights the region's
premium wines through wine shows, tastings,
workshops, tours, trails and markets.
tasteorange.com.au
NovemBER1
Tumbarumba Tastebuds
This lush spring affair showcases the best of
Tumbarumba's food and produce. Explore the
premium quality vineyards and cellar doors
with free wine tasting.
visittumbashire.com.au
1 - 2
Wine, Roses and all that Jazz
Celebrate the coming of spring with cool
climate wines and laid-back sounds at
Canberra region wineries.
www.canberrawines.com.au
1 - 2
Bitter and Twisted International
BoutiqueBeer Festival
A Bavarian beer breakfast, beer and food
matching lunch, then a tour of the historic
Maitland Gaol how can you miss it?
bitterandtwisted.com.au
1 30
Good Food Month, Victoria
This month-long celebration will showcase
the best Melbourne and regional restaurants,
cafes, bars and producers.
goodfoodmonth.com
13 - 16
Taste of Melbourne
Billed as four days of foodie heaven,
Melbournes dining scene explodes with
tasting menus, interactive masterclasses,
boutique artisan producers, and live
entertainment. tasteofmelbourne.com.au
14 - 15
Tasmanian Beerfest
Australias largest beer festival transforms the
Hobart waterfront into a world of boutique
and craft beer each November, with local,
Australian and international brews on show.
tasmanianbeerfest.com.au
SEPTEMBER22 - 28
Australian Cool Climate Wine Show
Benchmarking the unique wine styles
produced from cool climate wine regions,
culminating with a public tasting on 28
September at Murrumbateman Hall.
murrumbateman.org.au
27
Flavours of Mudgee
The Mudgee Food & Wine Festival runs
from 12 September to 5 October. This
free street festival is the high point, with
regional produce, wines and entertainment.
mudgeewine.com.au
octoBER1 - 31
Good Food Month
Australias largest food festival comes to
Sydney and regional New South Wales;
Canberra; and Brisbane and regional
Queensland in October, then Melbourne
and regional Victoria in November.
goodfoodmonth.com
4 - 6
Murrumbateman Moving Feast
Tantalise your taste buds with the
Murrumbateman Moving Feast, a
roving degustation of fine local wines
matched with delicious tasting plates.
makersofmurrumbateman.org.au
spring issue 2014. 3
feature
Were choosing French champagne more than
ever. Corey Leeson, Trade Marketing Manager
for Independent Liquor Retailers says this is
part of a trend for us to drink less but drink
better. The strong Aussie dollar over the last
two years has seen the price of champagne
fall significantly. So people are trading up from
local wines to the imported product, he says.
Champagne has a limited provenance the
Champagne Region of France. Here ancient
Romans and medieval kings enjoyed wines
made from vines that withstood the rigours of
the northern climate. Originally they were pale,
pinkish wines, but by the mid-16th century
white wines were being produced from the
Pinot Noir grape. For centuries, though, the
bubbles that formed in the wine during its
secondary fermentation in the bottle were
seen as a fault.
Fashions change. The sparking version
became a craze among the French nobility
in the early 1700s, and wine-makers began
to encourage the bubbles. Making it was a
hazard, as carbon dioxide gas often caused
the bottles to explode. With the industrial
revolution in the 19th century came stronger
bottles, improved corks and the practice of
riddling a process that allowed sediment to
collect on the cork and be swiftly removed
without losing too much of the fizz and
modern champagne was born.
Australia has its own long tradition of sparkling
wine production and, although we cant call it
champagne or even mthode champenoise,
many of the local sparklings are very
respectable drops. As far back as 1900, an
Australian sparkling wine won the gold medal
at the Paris exhibition, beating the French at
their own game.
That wine came from Great Western in
Victoria, owned at the time by Hans Irvine.
He had imported bottles, machinery, and a
French winemaker from the champagne house
of Pommery and made wine by the traditional
method. A story, possibly apocryphal, links
Irvine with Dame Nellie Melba, who had
expressed the wish to bathe in champagne.
He commanded that a bathtub be brought
to the winery and filled with 152 bottles of
his sparkling wine. The diva bathed behind a
screen. Cellar-hands later bottled the bubbly
and claimed that, although 152 bottles went
in, 153 bottles came out.
A completely different kind of sparkling wine
played a significant role in turning us into
a nation of wine-drinkers. Barossa Pearl,
however scornfully its referred to these days,
changed the Australian wine industry. It was
made using white table grapes fermented
in pressure-controlled vessels, based on
a German style known as Perlwein and
introduced at the time of the 1956 Melbourne
Olympics by Colin Gramp of Orlando. He
believed it would appeal to young people. It
did. While the rest of the industry watched
with some scepticism, Barossa Pearl became
a huge success. Competitors followed with
more sparkling, sweetish wines: Sparkling
Rhinegold, Starwine, Gala Spumante,
Porphyry Pearl and Cold Duck.
Weve come a long way since then. Just ask
Ed Carr. From his early wine industry days as
a microbiologist with Wynn Winegrowers at
Magill, Carr has become Australias sparkling
wine guru. In 1986 he was appointed sparkling
winemaker for Seaview and Killawarra in the
Barossa, joining Accolade Wines (formerly
BRL Hardy) in 1994. At Hardys, he was the
guiding hand behind well-known sparkling
wines such Omni, Sir James and Banrock
Station. Now he makes the best sparkling
wine in Australia, House of Arras. Carr believes
that Tasmania can, and should, produce
exceptional sparkling wines equal to the
world's best.
James Halliday agrees, saying that the best
sparklings are now predominantly sourced
from Tasmania. He gives the Bay of Fires |
House of Arras Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged
2000 a rating of 97 up there with the French
Krug and a whisker ahead of Louis Roederer
Cristal. Halliday also gives high ratings to
sparkling wines from other Tasmanian makers
and from cool sites in southern parts of the
mainland, including the Adelaide Hills, Yarra
Valley and the Macedon Ranges.
Another style that has seen a resurgence in
popularity is sparkling red wine. Weve come
a long way from the sparkling burgundy that
possessed a rather seedy reputation back in
the 1970s. These days, sparkling Shiraz from
the Adelaide Hills, Clare, southern Victoria
and the Canberra region are highly rated by
critics, and building a new fan-base with wine
drinkers, says Corey Leeson.
French or Australian, white or red, there have
never been so many options for your spring
racing tipple. Whatever your choice, youre in
good company. Cheers!
whats a day at the races without a glass or two of bubbly? as we tense up for the spring carnivals, champagne importers see their sales go through the roof, with aussies enjoying more and more of the french fizz every year. from there, its the long slide through the christmas
party season, culminating in the cork-popping frenzy of new years eve.
Beautiful Bubbles
4 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
Tasmania can, and should, produce
exceptional sparkling wines equal to the
world's best
Champagne myths
The monk Dom Perignon
inventedchampagne
Although he pioneered techniques to make
white wine from red grapes, in the 17th
century Dom Perignon would have spent most
of his career trying to keep bubbles out of
hischampagne.
Champagne should pop
whenyouopenit
If you want to preserve the bubbles, the cork
should be eased out with no more than a
gentle sigh.
Champagne glasses
should be chilled
No, no, no. Again, this will reduce the bubble
action and thats what champagnes
allabout.
Champagne doesnt
give you a hangover
Alas, not true. Scientists have suggested
champagne will give you a worse hangover
than vodka or white wine, but not as bad as
red wine or brandy.
A spoon in the neck of an open bottle
keeps champagne bubbly
Although a group of young scientists have
claimed to support this theory, most agree that
its bunk.
Champagne goes to your head
fasterthanother drinks
Unfortunately, this is no myth. Scientists tested
the blood of people who drank flat champagne
and fizzy champagne and found higher blood
alcohol levels in those who drank the fizz.
But they still dont know exactly why.
Ed Carr from Tasmanias House of Arras is Australias most-awarded
sparkling wine maker
spring issue 2014. 5
drink this with that
Taylors 2013
Jaraman Chardonnay
750mL Bottle $2199
This unusual fusion of
parcels from Clare Valley and
Margaret River has produced
a complex yet elegant wine.
It has intense lifted aromas of
melon and lime with hints of
stone fruits, underlying notes
of pineapple and guava and
subtle secondary characters of flint, cedar and
spice. The palate delivers citrus, fig and melon
flavours with clean, mineral acidity and a touch
of lemon zest. Texturally, its delicate, with a
creamy mid palate and integrated oak.
Coppabella 2012
Pinot Noir
750mL Bottle $1699
The closest climate parallels to
Tumbarumba in the Southern
Hemisphere are Central Otago
(New Zealand) and Tasmania,
two of the great emerging
new world regions for this
style. Its little surprise then
that great Pinot can also be
made in Tumbarumba. This is a fragrant, lifted
wine. Onthe palate theres strawberry and
maraschino cherry, with gamey notes and
Asian spices. A wonderfully textural wine with
silky, polished tannins on the long finish.
Tyrrells 2013
BrookdaleSemillon
750mL Bottle $1699
Part of Tyrrells Hunter Heroes
range, Brookdale Semillon
comes from the famous HVD
vineyard which always produces
wines that are floral, softer, and
more approachable than their
other vineyards, making it a
perfect early drinking style. The
floral nose leads into a palate that delivers
a fleshy, full serve of citrus and lemongrass
flavors and a clean, light finish. The 2013
vintage has been awarded three gold and
three bronze medals.
Method:
Score skin side of the belly in a criss-cross
pattern, but dont cut into the meat
Mince garlic with the salt in a mortar
and pestle. Add other spices and oil and
mixtogether
Rub mixture over skin of pork and place in
fridge for an hour to dry
Pre-heat oven to 120
Place the belly in oven for 20 minutes
Turn down heat to 160 and roast for a
further 2-3 hours until cooked through and
skin is crisp
Rest pork for 10 minutes then slice,
serving with mashed potato and
applesauce
match with...
Roasted Spiced Pork Belly
Ingredients:
2 2.5kg boneless pork belly, skin on
1tsp salt
1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp Chinese five-spice
powder
Pinch ground cloves 4 garlic cloves 50ml olive oil
Serves 4
6 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
drink this with that
Brown Brothers 2013
OrangeMuscat & Flora
750mL Bottle $1599
This luscious late-harvested
wine is the perfect partner for a
wide range of desserts. Orange
Muscat forms the backbone of
the blend, providing aromas of
orange blossom to the nose and
a fresh citrus hint to the palate,
while the Flora contributes
colour, texture and mouth-feel. The current
release is vibrant yellow and shows lifted
aromas of lemon, honey, spice and musk.
Fresh and tangy, it has a zesty long clean
balanced finish.
Innocent Bystander
2014Moscato
750mL Bottle $1699
This stylish Moscato is made
from old-vine Gordo (brown)
and Black Muscat (Muscat of
Hamburg) grapes exclusively
grown for Innocent Bystander
in the vineyards around Swan
Hill on the Murray River. The
result is pink and bubbly,
with aromas of candyfloss, pink grapefruit
and mandarin. Tastes of rosewater, toffee
apple and rhubarb crumble come together
in a spritzy fizz with a fresh pear and
raspberryfinish.
Morris Classic
Liqueur Muscat
750mL Bottle $1899
The world-acclaimed Morris
Liqueur Muscats are produced
from Brown Muscat, a clone of the
Muscat aux Petit Grains Rouge,
grown at Morriss Rutherglen
vineyards. The fortified Muscat
is matured in oak casks then
blended for richness, age and
freshness. This Liqueur Muscat exhibits the
aromatic fruit character and luscious flavour of
ripe Brown Muscat grapes with a hint of wood
dryness, resulting in an excellent dessert wine
with mouth-filling flavour.
Method:
Pre-heat oven to 160o
Line a 20cm cake tin (or individual
mouldsif you prefer)
Place figs and bi-carb in a bowl, boil water
and pour over the top, stir and allow to sit
Cream butter and sugar until
whiteandfluffy
Add eggs one at a time, scraping
downsides
Fold in half the flour, then half the fig mix,
then remaining flour and figs
Pour into tin and bake at 160 for 20-25
minutes or until a skewer comes out clean
Sticky Fig Pudding
match with...
Ingredients:
180g dried figs, diced
300ml water
1 tsp bi-carb soda
180g caster sugar
60g butter , room
temperature
2 eggs
180g self-raising flour
serve hot with caramel
sauce and cream
Serves 4
spring issue 2014. 7
supplier feature
In this part of the world people enjoy having
a beer when relaxing after catching a wave,
catching a band at the pub or just catching
up with friends. Its that sort of place, Jamie
says. We brew beer for times like these, beer
that is simply good to drink.
That means brewing beer that lets the flavours
and aromas of the ingredients shine through
by keeping the processes to a minimum. The
all malt beers are brewed with no additives
and no preservatives.
Its certainly how the locals like it, but it
hasnt stopped there. Stone & Wood is now
supplying its signature brews to pubs and
bottle shops across the country. The original
brew shed in Byron is now used to produce a
range of limited release beers, while the main
operation has been moved to larger premises
in nearby Murwillumbah. There the partners
produce their two big sellers: Pacific Ale and
Jasper Ale, as well as a lager.
Crisp and fresh
Pacific Ale is brewed using all Australian
barley, wheat and Galaxy hops. Its cloudy and
golden with a big fruity aroma and a refreshing
finish. After being dry hopped at the end of
fermentation, Pacific Ale is then drawn straight
from the storage tank at the brewery into kegs
and bottles. Drawing it from the tank and
straight into a keg or bottle without filtering
or pasteurising it means that the beer can be
enjoyed at the pub or at home in the same
condition as it is when it comes from the tank
at the brewery simply fresh.
Filtering beer removes the remaining
yeast that causes the beer to look cloudy;
unfortunately a lot of the flavour is also
removed by the filter, Brad Rogers says.
Pasteurising beer usually involves a heating
process which gives it some stability for
shipping long distances or storing for a
long time. Unfortunately this process can
also knock some of the crisp freshness out
ofthebeer.
the philosophy behind the stone & wood brewing company has been shaped by its location: byron bay. we try to take things slow and keep it simple, says founder jamie cook. along with partners brad rogers and ross jurisich, he founded australias easternmost craft brewery back in 2008. after many years of working in the beer business, their dream was to quit working for the man, shed the corporate garbage and get back to basics.
Take it slow and keep it simple
8 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
The team prefers to leave the yeast in Pacific
Ale because they believe it adds something
special to the flavour of the beer. The yeast
drops to the bottom of the bottle over time so
they recommend you give the bottle a gentle
roll or tip it upside down before opening it to
rouse the yeast and mix it up.
Beer for the cooler months
Around Byron, it rarely gets really cold and
it doesnt stay cold for long, so the climate
doesnt favour big winter beers. Stone &
Wood wanted to brew a beer that would suit
the cooler months but decided that it should
be one that also had year-round appeal. Their
Jasper Ale contrasts with and balances the
rest of the Stone & Wood beers.
Jasper Ale reflects the red volcanic soil of
the Northern Rivers hinterland and is brewed
from a blend of pale and crystal malts. Jasper
Ale is deep red, with spicy bitterness that
the German Hersbrucker hops bring to the
beer, balancing its rich malt character. The
inspiration comes from German Alt, American
Amber Ale and an English Brown Ale styles.
Acting local
Despite their national success, Stone & Wood
still see themselves as a local company and
they take their role in the community seriously.
Traditionally, a brewery didnt just supply
fresh beer to the locals, it could also be relied
upon to help support the wider community.
Through donations, volunteering, partnerships
and fundraising Stone & Wood supports local
grassroots causes to help create sustainable
social and environmental outcomes. This
is something that we take pride in and we
are always looking for ways in which we can
positively affect our community, they say.
Brewing beer that lets the flavours and aromas of the ingredients shine through.
2 for $112 for $11
spring issue 2014. 9
winemaker feature
Doing it their way
The familys early heritage had more to do
with beer than wine. The family patriarch,
Henry Pike, emigrated from Dorset to South
Australia in 1878. He soon established a family
business called Pikes Dorset Brewery, later
known as H. Pike & Co., making beer, ales,
soft drinks and cordials. The company was
sold in 1972 but the symbol of the English
Pike fish that featured on his labels still graces
Pikes wine-labels today.
The familys involvement in wine started with
Henrys great grandson, Edgar, who became
a private vigneron and vineyard manager
for a large wine company in Padthaway and
Langhorne Creek. It was natural for his sons
to follow in his footsteps, attending South
Australias Roseworthy Agricultural College.
Andrew graduated in 1976 and immediately
joined Wynns in Coonawarra. Four years
later, he joined Penfolds to establish a new
vineyard project at Clare in the mid north of
SouthAustralia.
Meanwhile, Neil completed a vintage at Wynns
Coonawarra in 1977, and decided to study
Wine Production and Marketing. He graduated
in 1980 and followed Andrew to the Clare
Valley, where he made wine for various local
producers. The seeds for Pikes Wines were
sown when the brothers saw the potential of
the area.
It was a family enterprise, supported by Edgar
and his wife Merle. Both now have Pikes
wines named in their honour: the flagship
EWP Shiraz and the premium Merle
Riesling. In 1984, when they started planting in
the Polish Hill River Valley sub region of Clare,
others were doing the reverse. Grape prices
were down and that year Penfolds vintage
notes said it was likely that 500 hectares of
vines would be removed from the Barossa
Valley, Clare Valley and Angle Vale areas. Many
old vines were lost.
The year we first started planting vines here
was the year the infamous vine pull was on
here in South Australia, and people were
removing hundreds of hectares of vineyards
from around the place, and that's when we
actually started planting, Neil told an ABC
interviewer many years later.
The first Pikes wines were released in the
spring of 1985. Initial plantings on the 80 acre
property were Riesling, Semillon, Cabernet,
Merlot and Shiraz. Their champion and
workhorse variety is Riesling.
neil and andrew pike have often bucked industry trends on their way to joining the ranks of the clare valleys highly awarded wine producers. more than once, when others were uprooting their vines, they were planting. now, pikes wines is renowned for its riesling and well-respected for other wines in its stable. whats more, pikes is getting back to its australian roots with a well-regarded range of beers.
Winemakers Neil (L) and Andrew Pike in the vineyard at Clare Valley.
10 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
First planted in the Clare Valley some 150
years ago, the Riesling grape flourishes in the
cool environment, and Clare is considered
to be one of the two best regions for this
variety in the country. In 1996, Pikes beer was
reintroduced to the market and continues to
be a small, but increasingly important part of
the Pike family business.
More recently Pikes has pushed the envelope
and produced eclectic wines like their Luccio
range with an Italian flavour, using grapes like
Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio. They are also
growing the Spanish grape Tempranillo which
fits wonderfully into the blend that makes up
the delicious Red Mullet. Planting of Viognier
in 1998 has turned out to be inspirational,
says Neil. The wines produced so far have
fulfilled their promise; and have attracted
attention from several important international
wine journalists.
For the first 14 years of the Pikes operation,
Andrew continued to work at Penfolds,
ultimately becoming General Manager of
Vineyard Operations for the Southcorp Wine
Group. There he was responsible for over
6000 hectares of corporate vineyards and
all grape supply for the Group on a global
basis. But in 1998 he resigned to become the
full-time viticulturist for Pikes and to help his
brother run the business.
They persisted through the grape glut in the
mid 2000s, again planting more vines. Being
a primary industryeverything goes in cycles,
Neil said. Far too much planting went on
certainly in the late 90s and early noughties,
as we call them, driven by several things, and
obviously people got very excited about how
much wine was being exported offshore.
Now Pikes sells wine throughout Australia as
well as to China, Japan, UK/Ireland, Belgium,
Denmark, SE Asia, Canada and USA. Despite
this, the business is still very much family
owned and family operated. Andrew oversees
the vineyards and Neil the winery, and both
take a hands-on approach.
Pikes pride themselves on making wines that
reflect the variety, vintage and importantly the
region. As Neil Pike states, After nearly 30
vintages here in Clare the place still amazes
me. It has the unique ability to produce some
of the finest, most delicate dry Rieslings in
the world, but can also produce full bodied
red wines from Shiraz and Cabernet that are
incredibly powerful. I am not aware of another
wine region that can do this.
The rewards are there. Pikes wines have
garnered many awards, including the 2013
Trophy for Australias Best Riesling at the
prestigious Canberra International Riesling
Challenge. Neil has also mentored some
outstanding young winemakers, with Pikes'
Steve Baraglia recently crowned the Clare
Valley Winemakers 2014 Rising Star.
The wine industry is part agriculture, part
science and part romance. Mother Nature
plays an important role in the process,
with drought, frost and local wildlife all
participants, Andrew says. But using every
bit of their experience and local knowledge
Andrew and Neil produce wines of great
balance and structure even in so called
toughyears.
Whats more, they go about their business
with a minimum of fuss and avoid the hoop-la
that is sometimes associated with the wine
industry. As the late Len Evans often said:
Wine is a drink. Lets get on with the job
of drinking it. The Pikes just get on with
makingit.
More than once, when others were uprooting
their vines, Pikes wereplanting
Imag
e
Bla
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an
Imag
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Bla
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an
Winemaker Neil (L) the barrel room at Clare Valley.
spring issue 2014. 11
supplier feature
South Australian wine producers Jacobs
Creek have released a new range of red wines
finished in whisky barrels. It reverses the
established practice of finishing whisky (and
sometimes other spirits) in barrels that have
previously held wine. In double finishing the
flavours retained by the oak barrels add subtle
new notes to the final product.
Whisky producers traditionally seek out barrels
that have held sherry, port or sauternes
although, as these become harder to obtain,
many use old bourbon casks. Tasmanian
whisky maker Patrick Maguire, of Sullivans
Cove, says the barrel is an ingredient. It drives
50 to 70 per cent of the flavour of the whisky
and all of the colour, he says.
Wine makers have experimented before with
wine finished in whisky barrels. In Kentucky,
USA, several winemakers are producing
bourbon barrel reds. And back in 2008, an
American importer convinced some McLaren
Vale winemakers to experiment with a Shiraz
aged in barrels that had previously held
American whiskey. The resulting wine only saw
the light of day in the States. Now the release
of Double Barrel means Aussies can taste the
results of this interesting marriage.
It took the Jacobs Creek winemaking team
two years of trials to perfect the Double Barrel
range. Chief Winemaker Bernard Hickin says
the process started with quality fruit from
selected Barossa and Coonawarra vineyards.
We started by crafting premium red wines,
then matured them traditionally in French and
American oak barrels. Then we finished them
in 20-year-old whisky barrels, he says.
The finishing in whisky barrels creates subtle
hints of complementary flavour and introduces
additional intricacy and a smoother texture. Its
due to the fundamental differences between
barrels made for ageing whisky, and those
crafted to age wine.
Finishing the wines in whisky barrels creates subtle hints of
complementary flavour.
Whisky barrels are scorched at a high heat,
which releases their natural wood sugars,
while their narrower staves allow for greater
oxygen exchange. Over a long period of time,
this imparts colour, flavour and sweetness
to whisky and, subsequently, adds intriguing
nuances to thewine.
A barrel of surprisesJacobs Creeks new Double Barrel range turns an old tradition on its head.
12 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
Jacobs Creek Double Barrel 2012 Barossa Shiraz
Has a full and generous palate with a beguiling mix
of sweet red fruits and dark chocolate indicative of its
origins as Barossa Shiraz. Subtle toasty vanillin derives
from aging in traditional French and American oak wine
barrels. The careful use of aged Scotch whisky barrels
for finishing has added complex nuances of almond-
husks and also softened the dense tannins to yield an
incrediblesmoothness.
Food match
Scotch Fillet of beef wrapped in smoky bacon
Jacobs Creek Double Barrel 2012
CoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon
The complex palate reveals itself with style. Traditionally
assertive Coonawarra tannins are evident at first, before
giving way to a mid-palate filled with ripe cassis, olive
tapenade and complex briary hints. Fine, dusty tannins give
excellent line and length, and are layered with sweet and
toasty characters reminiscent of crme brle. Our unique
Double Barrel technique of finishing in aged Irish whiskey
barrels has integrated the myriad of flavours and brought
extra richness to the palate.
Food match
Roasted rack of lamb with chargrilled eggplant
The use of Scotch whisky barrels to finish our
Double Barrel Shiraz has imparted additional
layers of complexity and smoothness, which
combine beautifully with the rich varietal plum,
fruit cake and chocolate notes of Barossa
Shiraz, says Bernard.
On the other hand, finishing Double Barrel
Cabernet Sauvignon in Irish whiskey* barrels
has integrated the black fruit flavours and
aromatic herbal notes, softened the tannins
and, most noticeably, added real richness
throughout the palate.
________________________
* If you saw our winter edition of SoVino, youll understand
that whisky, without the e, comes from Scotland
(and, apparently, Tasmania) while the Irish or
American product is whiskey, with an e.
Bernard Hickin
750mL
Bottle
$1999
750mL
Bottle
$1999
spring issue 2014. 13
store profile
Coonamble Cellars
Coonamble lies at the hub of a wheat, sheep
and beef-producing region in the central-west
of New South Wales. Rodney Vallett was born
and bred there but left to spend 13 years with
the liquor giant Lion. Coonamble was always
home though, and when he saw that the
licence for Coonamble Cellars was up for
grabs he leapt at the chance to return to his
country roots. I could see the potential here,
says Rodney. Thats why I moved back.
The business had been a stand-alone liquor
outlet for 15 years when Rodney took over
in January 2011. Already hes made great
strides, being named New South Wales
top bottle shop in the Retail Liquor Industry
Awards for Excellence 2013.
how did you get started
in this business?
As soon as I was 18 I started working in the
liquor trade. Coonambles a big party town
and I used to run functions. Its a big part
of my business again, looking after football
functions, the race track, weddings and so on.
I look after everything, call in staff to do table
service. People here know they can leave it all
to me. Theres an 18th birthday coming up this
weekend a kid well known in the town, so
that will be a big one
who are
your customers
We get all sorts, from people on benefits and
local workers to the local cockies.
what do they buy?
Around 50% of our turnover is beer, and 90%
of that is XXXX Gold. Next biggest volume is
in RTDs, especially with the younger people.
Were part of the towns Liquor Accord, where
we work closely with other retailers and the
police to reduce alcohol-related crime, so we
dont sell full-strength beer before 12 oclock
and we close at 10pm.
what is the
biggest challenge
you face?
The biggest challenge around here isnt
business-related, its lack of rain. Wheat is
big money and when theres not much wheat
it affects everyone. Its not just that people
spend less, there arent as many people in
the community. In a good year you get extra
workers coming in, more trucks and so on.
how are
you building
your business?
Im working on growing our wine sales and
SoVino is part of that strategy helping to
educate my customers about wine. I get
involved in promotions run by the wine
companies and Im training up my staff so
theyre more knowledgeable. And, of course,
the function business is important too. I have
one other full-time staff member, with three
casuals in the store and another six on call
forfunctions.
what do you
like most about
what you do?
Its satisfying to feel that the business is
successful. The award was great. Weve also
been a big challenge to our opposition in
town. Im a competitive sort of person, so its
good to feel like a winner.
Rodney Vallett (r) with Lain Vallett in his successful Coonamble Cellars store
14 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
THE JOHNNIE WALKER, BLACK LABEL AND DOUBLE BLACK WORDS, THE STRIDING FIGURE DEVICE AND ASSOCIATED LOGOS ARE TRADE MARKS. JOHN WALKER & SONS 2014.
DDJ1559_Sovino_297x210_Taste_Rev2.indd 1 11/08/2014 10:28 am
supplier feature
Dis t i ngu i shed Vineyards
petalumas approach to wine making
begins with the selection of the site.
Andrew Hardys aim is for the fruit to do the talking.
The distinguished vineyards concept
is close to the heart of Petalumas
founder, Brian Croser. In the mid
1970s, he saw that mainstream
viticulture and improved winemaking
technologies were producing
consistent, but mostly average wines.
There was a critical element needed
to come first: the site.
As a result, his immediate objective
for Petaluma was to select the best
sites within particular regions for a
specific grape variety, with a view to
producing ultra-premium wines. This
approach was a revolution in thinking
that pushed Petaluma ahead of other
wineries of the time and became the
foundation of truly great wines.
Petalumas distinguished vineyards
sites are in three of South Australias
premier wine regions Coonawarra,
Clare Valley and the Adelaide Hills.
The first two were well established
wine areas, where Petaluma acquired
existing vineyards. The Hanlin Hill
vineyard in the Clare Valley was
planted in 1968 on the Eastern
Hills. Its slate geology and climate
are perfect for the production of
the highest quality Riesling with a
backbone of high natural acidity and
intense rich lime flavours.
In Coonawarra the Evans vineyard
was planted in 1968 and lies in the
heart of Coonawarras famous Terra
Rossa red clay over limestone soils.
With the moderating influence of the
cold Southern Ocean on the climate
the region produces elegant and
long-lived Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlotwines.
The third site required considerably
more vision. Petaluma was the first
to plant vines in the Picadilly Valley
and Mt Barker regions of the Adelaide
Hills. Tucked in behind Mt Lofty,
the Piccadilly Valley is the coolest
viticultural region in the Adelaide
Hills, with a jigsaw of sub-valleys and
underlying geology up to 1800 million
years old.
The Adelaide Hills
Petaluma - Andrew Hardy, Head Winemaker
16 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
Petaluma White
Label Chardonnay
The 2013 vintage was preceded by wonderful
autumn and winter rain, before completely
drying out. The vineyards were in beautiful
condition at vintage. This wine combines fruit
from Petalumas Lenswood and Piccadilly
vineyards and received nine months of barrel
ageing before bottling. It displays citrus,
creamy lees and cashews, with hints of peach
and nectarine. On the palate, grapefruit and
toast combine with peach and melon to
produce a complex, mouth filling wine in a
fresh fruit-driven style. This wine will reward
careful cellaring.
Petaluma White Label
Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2012
Petalumas vineyards on the slopes of Mt
Barker on the eastern edge of the Adelaide
Hills received wonderful soaking winter rain
and useful spring and early summer rain,
before drying out and warming up - perfect
Shiraz ripening conditions. The 2012 Petaluma
White Label Shiraz is a bright, spicy vibrant dry
red. The aroma has cherries and blackberries
and lovely spice and pepper. Fine oak sits
nicely in the background. The palate is fresh,
lifted, rich and bright with a savoury finish.
Lovely soft sandy tannins signal this as a
drink-now style, but one that will also reward
careful cellaring.
Petaluma Yellow Label
Hanlin Hill Riesling
Petalumas Yellow Label represents the
flagship wines of the portfolio. Winemaker
Brian Croser describes this Riesling as a "dry
late picked style". A benchmark Riesling from
the Hanlin Hill vineyard in the Clare Valley, it
can be enjoyed now but is crafted to age and
if cellared carefully will reward your patience.
Intense aromatic and floral aromas lift from the
glass with hints of juicy citrus characters. It
displays powerful lemon and lime flavours and
wonderful fruit sweetness, with a flinty texture
and dry, elongated finish. Hanlin Hill Riesling
has been classified by Langtons, the honour
roll of fine Australian wine.
The now 30-year-old vineyards are
relatively steep. They face north and
east to receive the full benefit of the
warming early mornings and produce
delicate Chardonnay flavours with
high natural acidity. Petalumas first
100% Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay
was released in 1990.The cooler
aspects of the Piccadilly Valley site are
used for the production of Pinot Noir
for Petalumas sparkling wine, Croser.
The Mt Barker vineyard was planted
from 1992 in the sandy loam soils
of the warm western flank of the Mt
Barker summit. Underlying granitic
schist geology is ideal for taming the
vigorous Shiraz variety.
Led by senior wine-maker Andrew
Hardy, the Petaluma team see
themselves as 'custodians of
the vineyards', believing that if
the vineyards are great, and the
winemaking responsive, the wines
will be outstanding. If Andrew was
restricted to one word to describe his
winemaking philosophy, it would be
minimalist; his aim is for the fruit to
do the talking. The style changes he
has implemented have been subtle.
In the Chardonnay there has been a
decrease in new oak and malolactic
fermentation, with whole bunch
pressing used to add complexity. The
Coonawarra is very much focused
on fruit from the Evans vineyards
old vines and Hardy is intent on the
wine displaying the true terroir of
Coonawarras famed red dirt.
Petalumas wines from all regions
are available for tasting and sale at
their cellar door and award winning
restaurant - Petalumas Bridgewater
Mill in the Adelaide Hills as well as
from fine wine shops and restaurants
throughout Australia.
Pet
alum
aW
OR
DLE
Y
750mL
Bottle
$1999
750mL
Bottle
$2499
750mL
Bottle
$2299
spring issue 2014. 17
region feature
RIESLING COUNTRYthe clare valley is something of a paradox. it sits in south australias mid-north hot, dry country with little ground water. yet its famous for riesling, a wine youd traditionally associate with the cooler european climates of mosel and alsace. rieslings from the clare valley regularly carry off thetop awards at wine shows in australia and overseas.
The explanation lies in the regions complex
geography. Situated in the Mount Lofty
ranges, around two hours north of Adelaide,
the Clare Valley Wine Region is made up of
twelve separate valleys separated by low
rolling hills. It is subdivided into five sub-
regions: Clare, Sevenhill, Watervale, Polish Hill
River and Auburn. These sub-regions vary in
soil-type, altitude and climate, giving each its
distinctive terroir.
This, as well as the different aspects of the
Clare hillsides, means that the region can
also produce red wines of great distinction.
Clare Valley reds have won their share of
international awards, including World's Best
Shiraz at Londons top wine competitions
- the International Wine Challenge and the
International Wine & Spirit Competition.
It didnt happen overnight. The history of
viticulture in the Clare Valley goes back to
the mid-19th century. The area was explored
by Edward John Eyre in the late 1830s and
first settled by his friend and associate,
John Horrocks. Horrocks planted vines at
his property Hope Farm in 1840. He was
followed by Irishman Edward Gleeson,
who established a sheep station and, in
1846, named the village Clare after his
nativecounty.
Imag
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18 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
Unlocking the secrets of the Clare Valley is a pastime open to all who
visit this most beautifulpart of Australia James Halliday
Two years later, a group of Jesuits from Silesia
(now part of Poland) settled in a village they
called Sevenhill, a reference to the seven
hills of Rome. They planted vines in 1851
and established Sevenhill Cellars, the oldest
existing winery in South Australia. Sevenhill is
still operated by the Jesuits, but has expanded
its range considerably beyond the sacramental
wine they first produced.
In its early years the Clare Valley was famous
not for wine but for copper. In 1842 rich
deposits of the metal were discovered at
Kapunda, followed by fresh discoveries at
Burra. For the first ten years of its existence,
the Burra mine was the largest in Australia.
It made South Australia prosperous until low
copper prices brought an end to mining in
1877. Nearly 100 years later open cut mining
recommenced, but the ore was exhausted
by 1981. Much of the mining heritage is
preserved and is now a draw card for visitors.
As well as the Cornish miners who came for
the copper, English, Irish, Polish and German
settlers came to farm. They planted their own
small orchards and vineyards and by the early
1890s there were 150 acres of vines in the
valley. By the end of the century, table wines
were being exported to Britain. Today, there
are more than 40 wineries large companies
as well as small, boutique affairs with their own
cellar doors. The wineries all sit along a narrow
40km corridor between Auburn and Clare.
Along with Riesling, Shiraz and Cabernet
there are plantings of Chardonnay, Semillion,
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Mourvedre,
Merlot, Tempranillo, Grenache and others.
The climate of the Clare Valley is described
as moderately continental. Dry summer heat
keeps fungal diseases to a minimum, but
because the vineyards here are higher than
others in South Australia from 400 to 500
metres nights are cool to cold, allowing fruit
to ripen slowly and evenly. Most of the rain
falls in winter and early spring, so irrigation is
often required.
The varying soil types impart different
characters to the grapes. For example, the
Polish Hill River soils are harsh, full of rocks
and slate. The vines that struggle to survive
here produce Rieslings that display elegance,
intensity and a high degree of minerality. Just
nine kilometres away, in the Watervale sub
region, the classic red loam over limestone
soil produces wines of a more floral style.
As well as award-winning wines, the Clare
Valley can claim another honour. In 2000, a
group of Clare wine producers, led by Jeffrey
Grosset, pioneered the introduction of the
screw cap. While not the first in the world (the
Swiss had been using screw caps on their
cheaper wines for more than 20 years) it was
the beginning of a movement towards this
new closure. Although they lack the romance
of cork, screw caps provide a reliable seal,
avoiding oxidisation, cork taint and flavour
changes, particularly important for delicate
wines like Riesling.
The gourmet weekend was also pioneered
here. Australias first gourmet weekend was
held in the Clare Valley in 1984 and has been
celebrated in May each year since then.
Theres a lot to celebrate, and its not just
wine. The region is fast becoming a craft beer
hub. Knappstein Enterprise Brewerys Reserve
Lager, Pikes Oakbank Sparkling Ale and
Clare Valley Brewing Co. Bulls Eye Australian
Pale Ale were all named by the Adelaide
Advertisers beer writer, Mark Gribble, among
Australias top ten.
Theres also locally grown produce served
in beautiful historic buildings: everything
from grain-fed chicken and organic lamb to
chutney and extra virgin olive oils. There are
markets, fairs and country shows, heritage
buildings to explore, conservation parks
where you can see giant 50,000 year old
wombat fossils, and majestic colonial homes.
Chances are youll agree with Australian wine
writer James Halliday, who said, Unlocking
the secrets of the Clare Valley is a pastime
open to all who visit this most beautiful part
ofAustralia.
The Riesling Trail
While most visitors are content to explore
Clare Valleys charms by car, you can
swap four wheels for two (or even ditch
the wheels altogether) and walk or
cycle along the Riesling Trail. The trail
owes its existence to a disaster the
Ash Wednesday bushfires that severely
damaged the railway line between Clare
and Penwortham. The old rail route has
been converted into a 33km trail that
criss-crosses the valley, passing through
vineyards, wineries and historic towns.
Its a peaceful and safe thoroughfare
with a gentle gradient and is even
wheelchair friendly.
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spring issue 2014. 19
supplier feature
A diverse range of champagnes united by a unique character.
Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte is different.
Originally created for Hollywood royalty and
the European beau monde, its champagne
with a contemporary twist. A relatively young
house, its style and innovation have captured
the imagination of the champagne drinkers in
more than 40 countries. Founded in 1976,
Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte has grown from
a small family vineyard to become the fourth
largest selling champagne brand in the world
and the largest selling champagne in France.
This growth was possible because of a
unique arrangement for grape supply. In 1986
Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte joined with the
Centre Vinicole de la Champagne, an alliance
that represents more than 5000 vineyards.
Not only is the grape supply diverse, but
the different varieties are also of extremely
high quality. Nicolas Feuillatte is the only
Champagne House of any size that produces
all of its cuves exclusively from Premier Cru
and Grand Cru classed vineyards.
Made up of 25% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir
and 50% Pinot Meunier, the grapes represent
an unparalleled aromatic spectrum. This
gives chief winemaker David Henault great
scope to create the signature House style:
a diverse range of champagnes united by
auniquecharacter.
20 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
The art and the know-how
At each stage of the vinification, authenticity
and refusal to compromise over quality are
paramount. Harvesting and pressing are
subjected to the greatest vigilance to preserve
the fruits integrity, with presses located near
the vineyards.
David Henault, supported by an experienced
team of oenologists, oversees the blending.
With an extremely wide palette of crus at their
disposal, they retain the best of each harvest
to make the Nicolas Feuillatte cuves.
The Nicolas Feuillatte champagnes range
from the mainstay of the brand, Brut Reserve
Particulire, to the romantic Cuve Palmes
d'Or Vintage. The legend of Palmes dOr
originates from Nicolas Feuillatte himself
and his love for a young opera singer in
the 1950s. Nearly 30 years later, in his
homage to an unquenched love, he created
a special champagne in the image of his
Diva: extravagant, fantastic, sublime
andunforgettable.
Angove Family Winemakers, the fifth-
generation Australian winemaking company,
is the exclusive importer and sole distributor
for Palmes dOr and other Champagne
Nicolas Feuillatte wines in Australia. For more
information visit www.angove.com.au
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose
A coppery salmon pink colour, this cuvee
is a fine companion for those special
moments. The blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 10%
Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier provides
aromas of blackberries, raspberries, red
currants and strawberries while remaining
delicate and giving a feeling of lightness
andconviviality.
Nicolas Feuillatte Cuve
Palmesd'OrVintage
A noble and complex wine: the apogee of
Nicolas Feuillatte expertise. Composed from a
blend of the winemaker's favourite wines, this
cuvee displays the excellence of the vintage.
Only exceptional harvests are judged worthy
of being part of its composition. With complex
and subtle aromas, on the palate this cuve
is finely balanced, velvety and harmonious.
The vintage is presented in Palmes dOrs
signature and uniquely beautiful black bottle.
Best enjoyed when chilled to between six
and nine degrees Celsius, it is designed to
complement delicacies like caviar, truffles
andlobster.
750mL Bottle $4999
Nicolas Feuillatte Cuve Palmes
d'OrRos Vintage
A rare and precious wine: all the expertise
of Nicolas Feuillatte is brought to bear in this
exceptional cuve. The grapes were carefully
selected: Pinot Noir from Bouzy for its power,
Pinot Noir from Les Riceys for its character
and amazing perfume. The wine-makers skill
was then fully revealed by choosing the "ros
de saigne" technique. In this method, the
grape must remain in contact with the skins
for a short time. The natural pigments in the
skins of the black grapes begin to colour
the juice, enriching it with their aromatic
components. This exceptional cuve is
characterised by its smoothness and harmony.
Blend Pinot Noir 50% Bouzy, 50% Les Riceys.
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut
ReserveParticulire
This wine is the consistent expression of the
true Nicolas Feuillatte style. A light golden
colour with a floral nose. The blend of 40%
Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot
Meunier reveals subtle hints of pear and
apple with touches of almonds and hazelnuts.
A well balanced and elegant champagne
that expresses true Premier and Grand
Cruqualities.
spring issue 2014. 21
lick pier
ginger beer
Lick Pier is a refreshingly dry alcoholic ginger
beer made in an untraditional manner, but with
a traditional taste that'll make you ask, 'what's
going on here? Channelling Los Angeles, but
actually produced in the Melbourne suburb of
Prahran, this ginger beer from East9th Brewing
Company is named for a famous Venice
Beach amusement pier. At 4.0% alcohol,
Lick Pier is brewed for refreshment, and the
dry ginger flavour creates a clean aftertaste
designed for sessionability. Its a perfect warm-
weather drink, served on ice and shared with
friends. For a different twist, serve it with a
wedge of lime.
bighead australias
first no carb beer
Burleigh Brewers named this one Bighead in
honour of the volcanic headland above the
Burleigh Heads surf beach. The small team at
this Gold Coast craft brewery found existing
low carb beers a bit one-dimensional. So they
set themselves the task of reducing the carbs
without losing substance and character. By
respecting age-old craft brewing techniques,
theyve produced a full-flavoured, full-strength
beer that is 100% natural (free of additives
and preservatives) with zero carbs and
only 88 calories per bottle. Bighead has
twice won a silver medal at the World
Beer Championships.
mt macedon
pale ale
Mt Macedon dominates the landscape
overlooking the Holgate brewery in Woodend,
north east of Melbourne. Its massive, moody
and magnificent, not to mention insanely
popular with tourists and locals alike, the
Holgate team quips. No wonder they named
it after our beer. A new world blend of New
Zealand Nelson Sauvin hops, American
Amarillo and Citra hops, balanced by a malt
base of Australian Vienna gives this brew a
delicate caramel malt flavour complemented
by pine and citrus hop aromas. The result
is a pale ale of broad appeal and, like the
mountain, a local landmark.
byo feature
spring weather can be changeable, but as the season rolls on and well be getting out more therell be plenty of opportunities to share a cold one. but instead of sticking to the tried and true, how about seeking out something different? australias craft brewers are only too happy to oblige. even though these enterprising souls only produce a small percentage of australian beer, there are more and more of them more than 100 scattered around the country. and theyre innovators, forever pushing the boundaries with new ideas la-inspired ginger beer and no-carb beer for starters.
Local brews
4pk $1799 6pk $19996pk $1999
22 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
its called terroir the unique combination of geography, geology and climate that makes up the growing environment for wine grapes. and while grape-growing practices can modify the effects of terroir, different wine regions almost inevitably have signature styles, wines that are a true reflection of their location. sauvignon blanc and marlborough are virtually synonymous and this squealing pig release displays all the classic regional characteristics. the cold climate of tumbarumba and the maritime breezes of margaret river have also played their part in developing the regional characteristics of our other byo picks.
and regional classics.
barking tree 2011
cabernet merlot
Nestled in the renowned region of Margaret
River, the Barking Tree winery has the ideal
Mediterranean maritime climate, similar to that
of Bordeaux in a dry vintage. Barking Tree has
a combination of new and old vines, steep
slopes, loamy soils and deep gravels. The
result is the ability to produce excellent and
unique fruit and wines of the highest quality. In
the 2011 Cabernet Merlot, the cabernet fruit
creates good length and depth, with aromas of
cassis berry fruit, lifted by merlot overtones of
dark chocolate to create an elegant medium-
bodied palate. Enjoy with red meat dishes and
Asian-influenced cuisine.
coppabella the crest 2012
tumbarumba chardonnay
Ultra-premium Chardonnay has to be grown in
an ultra-cool region hard to find in Australia.
Coppabella is in Tumbarumba, in the foothills
of the Snowy Mountains; theres nowhere
cooler on the Australian mainland. This is
new-age Chardonnay that throws down the
gauntlet to the best of Burgundy and points
to the future of the variety in Australia. Spicy,
nutty French oak plays second fiddle to the
nectarine and citrus fruit. The wine is poised
and elegant, finishing with pristine, cleansing
acidity. Its no surprise that this wine was
a gold medallist at the prestigious Sydney
International Wine Competition.
750mL Bottle $1999
750mL Bottle $1499
750mL Bottle $2299
squealing pig
2013 marlborough
sauvignon blanc
Squealing Pig vineyard is located in the
Marlborough region near the mouth of the
Awatere River, where the climate is distinctly
maritime. This is a classic Marlborough wine
with aromas of gooseberry and fresh garden
herbs, pungent nettle and passionfruit, all of
which are underpinned with a steely minerality.
The palate is clean and linear, with long, chalky
acidity. Punchy gooseberry and passionfruit
flavours combine with mineral characteristics
to form a complete palate; layered and
expressive. Sauvignon Blanc is springtime in
a glass, and the wine should be drunk while
still reflecting its vibrant zesty fruit palate
andliveliness.
spring issue 2014. 23
new product spotlight
New Product Spotlight
building on success
canadian club spiced
Australians have taken to Canadian Club, a whisky that traces its history
back to 1858 in Walkerville, Ontario. Were in line with a worldwide
trend. Canadas whisky exports grew by nearly 25% in 2013 with
producers coming out with new high-end releases.
Canadian Club Original has been a huge success in Australia and were
confident consumers will love the taste and versatility of Canadian Club
Spiced, says marketing director Trent Chapman.
The new release blends Original Canadian Club Whisky with extracts of
vanilla, allspice, black pepper, cinnamon, clove, juniper berry and mace.
The result is a unique whisky-drinking experience. The sweet grain
and spicy aromas are followed by sweet fruit and spice flavours on the
palate and a long luscious finish. Canadian Club Spiced is a great mixer
in long drinks and cocktails or can be enjoyed over ice.
best of british
gordons elderflower spritz
pimms & lemonade
Elderflower is one of the most British flavours around. The Brits have
been making elderflower and elderberry wine and elderflower cordials
for centuries. And what could be more British than Gordons, the worlds
best-selling London Dry Gin? Combining these two classic tastes with
soda, Gordons Elderflower Spritz has an attractive floral, aromatic
bergamot and elderflower scent. Theres a delicate elderflower flavour
with pleasant gin botanicals and a citrus touch, leaving a refreshing and
clean taste on the palate.
Pimms No 1 Cup is another English icon, long associated with the
tennis at Wimbledon where theyre reputed to get through over 80,000
pints of the stuff every year. This new release is a fresh twist on the
classic, with Pimms topped with lemonade and ginger ale. Youll notice
the bitters and spice notes upfront, followed by a nice ginger aroma
and lime in the background. The smooth ginger ale with a citrus twist
is intertwined with the signature Pimms aromatics. The finish is dry
with a subtle citrus aftertaste. Serve it over ice in a long glass, with the
traditional garnish of cucumber, mint leaves and an orange slice.
The finish is dry with a
subtle citrus aftertaste
Canadian Club Spiced is a great mixer in long drinks & cocktails...
750mL Bottle $3599
500mL Bottles
3 for $20
500mL Bottles 3 for $20
spring issue 2014. 25
supplier feature
NRL fans know Dane Tilse as the
Leagues tallest player, the two-metre tall
prop who provides the Canberra Raiders
with punch in the middle of the field.
But Dane has another life outside footy:
hes the Canberra representative for his
familys cider business.
Dane and his brother Luke used to spend
summer holidays picking apples at his
grandfathers orchard in the upper Hunter
Valley near Moonan Flat. The orchard is
situated at the foot of the Barrington Tops
and has been in the family since 1916.
There are two mountain streams that run
through the property, helping to create
what we reckon are some of the most
beautiful Red Delicious and Granny Smith
apples in the world, says Dane.
Originally the fruit was sold through the
familys own fruit and vegetable shops
in the area, with Dane and Lukes Pa
delivering them in his apple truck. But
when the big supermarkets arrived the
shops couldnt withstand the competition
and eventually the orchard business
was struggling too. It was Luke who
suggested cider as the solution.
raiders stalwart has something on the cider
COMING UP APPLES
26 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
We thought making cider would be a
good way to do a bit of a value-add to
the apples. We started experimenting
with it and came up with the brand in
relation to my Pas truck, he says. The
cider business is competitive, but Apple
Truck has been steadily carving out a
market, starting with the local area and,
thanks to Dane, in Canberra.
Although the Tilses pulled out about two-
thirds of their trees around 12 years ago,
theyre now considering planting more
to supplement the remaining 50-year old
trees. The cider is made in batches and
over the past three years batch sizes
have risen from 10 tonnes to around 30
tonnes, which yields about 25,000 litres
of cider.
The batch process means that each
release has its own character, much like
wine. We let the apples determine the
flavour, Luke says. Apple Truck Cider
is made by Hunter Valley Wine Services
winemakers Thomas Hordern and
Tony Hewitt in a former dairy building
inMuswellbrook.
Cider lovers are keen, praising the purity,
the low level of carbonation and the
flavour. To quote from James Adams
widely-read blog All About Cider: The
palate was overall a pleasing experience
too which offered up a perfect, cleansing
dryness. Lovely hints of red apple were
lifted by the musk characters which
complemented each other seamlessly.
The Granny Smith apples delivered
mouth-watering acidity leaving the
palate crisp, sharp and focused.
Iwaspleasantly surprised to see some
phenolic presence on the palate, along
with some back palate bitterness and
heat from the alcohol.
While most people like their Apple Truck
Cider straight, it can also make a base for
cocktails. The Apple Truck people warn
that cider cocktails need to be treated
with caution! They can be deceptively
easy to drink but the combined strength
of the cider and the spirits used can
catch up with you. As such, too many,
too fast could see you groggily waving
down a cab earlier in the night than
expected! Using a traditional style cider
like ATC can be a great alternative too
sickly sweet juices or liqueurs, though,
say Dane and Luke Tilse. Here are a
couple of their personal favourites.
DANE & LUKE'S FAVOURITE APPLE
TRUCK CIDER COCKTAILS
truck stone fence
1 part Appleton Rum (the older the better)
2 parts Tilses Apple Truck Cider
Dash of vanilla syrup
Method
Pour Appleton Rum over ice in an Old Fashioned glass.
Add a dash of vanilla syrup, then the Apple Truck Cider.
With a bar spoon, gently bring the rum to the top of the glass.
vanilla truck martini
2 parts Absolut Vanilla
3 parts Tilses Apple Truck Cider
Dash of sugar syrup
Wedge of lemon
Sprig of thyme
Wedge of Granny Smith apple
Method
Muddle the thyme, apple, and lemon.
Add the sugar syrup, Apple Truck Cider, and Absolut Vanilla.
Shake well with lots of ice.
Strain into a chilled martini glass.
Garnish with a cross section of granny smith apple
floatinginthecocktail with a sprig of thyme.
4pk $1499
spring issue 2014. 27
supplier feature
Liquor 43 (pronounced as Cuarenta Y Tres in
Spanish) has been the top selling liqueur in
Spain for decades. But although international
distribution began in the 1960s, it took a while
for this versatile drop to hit its stride. Those
who try it will almost certainly become fans.
Parents brought me back a bottle of this
wondrousness from Spain, enthused one
happy tippler. Discovered that on the rocks,
it's possibly the best drink in the world,
and if you combine it with Coca Cola, you
end up with alcoholic Vanilla Coke, which is
undoubtedly superior to everything else. Ill be
purchasing this repeatedly.
The Spanish makers of Licor 43 cloak their
product in myth and legend, saying its the
descendent of a local liqueur enjoyed by
the ancient Romans when they conquered
Spain in 209 BC. Certainly Cartagena, where
Licor 43 is made, is an ancient town where
Carthaginians, Romans, Goths, Moors and
early Christian kings have left their marks. But
since the process of distilling wasnt invented
for another ten centuries or so, their story
about the Romans Licor Mirabilis is probably
a romantic fantasy.
Whatever its origins in the distant past, the
liqueur you can buy today has been around
since 1924. The company was founded by
Diego, Angel and Josephina Zamora Conesa
and Josephinas husband, Emilio Restoy
Godoy and is still family-owned. A local
favourite since those early years, Licor 43 is
now sold in more than 55 countriesworldwide.
The name comes from the 43 ingredients
that make up the secret formula, one closely
guarded by the Zamora family. Apparently only
three people from three generations of the
family currently know the recipe. Only natural
ingredients are used: carefully selected fruits
and herbs from the Mediterranean basin.
Licor 43 has an elegant and bright golden
tone, and a sharp and complex aroma. The
citrus essences capture the very spirit of
the Mediterranean, giving Licor 43 a warm
character, rounded by a delicate vanilla
touch. Some people detect a hint of aged
rum. Sweetness and alcoholic lift are nicely
balanced, producing a liqueur thats great on
its own or mixed with juice, coffee, cola, milk,
soda or almost any other spirit or ingredient
you can imagine.
A golden liqueur once little-known outside its native country is starting to make waves on the cocktail circuit.
The SpanishSecret
700mL Bottle $4499
28 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
I enjoy it best served neat after some hours
in the freezer, says an enthusiast. It just gets
a rich consistency and a mellower flavour...
perfection! Yet another drinker suggests
the opposite: Light it on fire at an angle and
gently swirl. It's like an angry marshmallow
over the campfire.
Despite the enthusiasm for drinking it straight,
Licor 43 is nothing if not versatile. A favourite
way to serve it internationally is in a mini beer
mug with a topping of heavy cream to mimic
the foamy head. Looks like a mini-beer, tastes
much more decadent. As an aperitif, try a
Caipirinha. Fill a glass with ice-cubes, pour in
a shot of Licor 43, add freshly squeezed lime
juice and top up with tonic water. The tonic
waters bitterness harmonises with the limes
acidity and the subtle sweetness of the liqueur.
Other suggestions include mixing one part of
Licor 43 with three parts of cold milk, orange
juice or pineapple juice. Add ice and enjoy.
Theres no shortage of fancier cocktails using
this golden liqueur. Try some of our favourites
and discover a new taste of Spain.
Key Lime Pie1 part Licor 43
1 part vodka
1 part lime juice
Shake ingredients with ice.
Strain and serve in a martini glass
Spanish Martini2 parts Licor 43
2 parts gin
Add ingredients to an ice-filled shaker.
Shake and strain into a martini glass.
Garnish with a Spanish olive
Sparkling 431 part Licor 43
3 parts cava (Spanish sparkling wine)
Lemon segments
Combine ingredients in a
champagneglassAdd ice cubes
Despite the enthusiasm for drinking it straight, Licor 43 is nothing if not versatile.
spring issue 2014. 29
2supplier feature
Grey Goose Press
45ml Grey Goose vodka
30ml St. Germain elderflower liqueur
20ml freshly squeezed lime juice
60ml cold soda water
Method
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice.
Pour the Grey Goose, St. Germain and lime over the ice.
Shake briefly.
Double strain into a chilled flute.
Top with the soda and garnish with a stirrer.
60ml Grey Goose vodka
30ml fresh squeezed lemon juice
1tsp fine granulated white sugar
75ml soda water
Method
Add Grey Goose vodka and lemon juice to a rocks glass.
Add cubed ice and stir.
Add sugar to taste, stirring to dissolve.
Top with soda water.
Garnish with a Grey Goose stirrer.
does vodka immediately say russia to you? sweden? how about france? it shouldnt be too surprising, since for centuries france has produced one of the finest luxury spirits in the world cognac. and it was to the cognac region that american businessman and spirits aficionado sidney frank turned in 1996, when he decided to pursue his dream of a super-premium vodka.
Mix it with the best. Grey Goose Vodka
1
Four cocktails to try now
Grey Goose Le Fizz
30 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
3 4
There he found Franois Thibault, a cognac
maitre de chai or cellar master, a title given
only to highly skilled master blenders and
distillers after years of apprenticeship. When
Thibault announced that he intended to use
his considerable spirits-making skills to create
a French vodka, people in the region were
sceptical. Now the vodka he created, Grey
Goose, is enjoyed around the world.
Vodka can be made from many things,
including wheat, rye, beets, corn, potatoes,
and sugar cane. Those produced from grain,
in particular wheat, tend to be smoother. Grey
Goose is made with soft winter wheat grown
in the Picardy region of France. Only the
highest grade of bread-making wheat is used.
My long experience with cognac was a
tremendous help, says Thibault. I had
already mastered the notion of rigor, the
notion of precision. The ultimate goal can only
be attained thanks to the quality of the raw
material you pick. I strongly believe that the
quality of Grey Goose relies above all on the
quality of the wheat.
The wheat is distilled using a continuous
process which preserves its quality.
The resulting spirit is then transported to
Gensac-La-Pallue in the Cognac region,
where its combined with artesian spring
water. The water is naturally filtered through
limestone making it exceptionally pure and
ideal forblending.
Francoise Thibault and his tasting experts
oversee every step of production including
personally tasting and approving each batch.
In terms of quality control, nothing can
replace the eye, the nose or the tongue,
hesays.
Grey Goose has a clear, fresh nose with an
elegant floral aroma accented by a subtle
citrus note. Initially soft on the palate, it has a
gentle sweetness that gradually envelops the
mouth a smooth and rounded texture with
a hint of almond. Its fresh and bright, with a
long satisfying finish.
Named the worlds best-tasting vodka by
the Beverage Testing Institute in 1998, Grey
Goose can be enjoyed straight. But its this
vodkas talent as a mixer that saw it quickly
become the USs best-selling premium brand.
Here are some favourites; youll find more on
the Grey Goose website.
60ml Grey Goose vodka
5ml runny honey
Dash of Angostura bitters
Method
Build ingredients in a rocks glass.
Stir to dissolve honey.
Top with cubed ice and stir.
50ml Grey Goose vodka
10ml Noilly Prat Dry
Lemon, for zest
Method
Add vodka and vermouth to a cocktail jug filled with ice.
Stir slowly and deliberately for 30 seconds.
Strain with a julep strainer into a well-chilled martini glass.
Cut a long strip of lemon zest; use it to rim the glass.
Grey Goose Rocks Grey Goose Dry Martini
In terms of quality control, nothing can replace the eye, the nose or
the tongue
700mL Bottle $6999
spring issue 2014. 31
Ainslie Cellars 7 Edgar Street Ainslie 02 6230 6622
Bowral Hotel 412 Bong Bong Street Bowral 02 4862 2646
Sydney Cellars Broadway 227 Broadway Road Broadway 02 9660 9996
Local Liquor Bungendore 1/15 Gilbraltar Street Bungendore 02 6238 1735
City Supabarn Shop EG24-Ground Floor Canberra Centre Canberra City 02 6257 4055
Denman Cellars Shop 1-3, 68 Halley St Chisholm 02 6292 5713
Coffs Harbour Hotel 135 West High Street Coffs Harbour 02 6651 4257
Pier Hotel Coffs Harbour 365 Harbour Drive Coffs Harbour 02 6652 2110
Local Liquor Conder (Corks Lanyon) Norman Lindsay Street Conder 02 6284 7000
Coonamble Cellars 83 Aberford Street Coonamble 02 6822 1756
Crace Supabarn Tenancy 1, 56 Abena Avenue Crace 02 6162 0913
Local Liquor Curtin (Statesman Hotel) Cnr Strangways & Theordore Streets Curtin 02 6281 1777
Local Liquor Dalmeny (IGA) 69 Mort Avenue Dalmeny 02 4476 7805
Dulwich Hill Cellars 572 Marrickville Road Dulwich Hill 02 9560 2946
Five Dock Supabarn Five Dock Square, 4-12 Garfield Street Five Dock 02 9370 0100
Local Liquor Griffith (Shop-Rite) 2 Barker Street Griffith 02 6295 0781
Islington Cellars 110 Maitland Road Islington 02 4969 4772
Kaleen Supabarn Shop 13 Kaleen Plaza, Georgina Crescent Kaleen 02 6255 0805
Station Hotel South Lismore 2 Casino Street Lismore 02 6621 5966
Local Liquor Lyneham (IGA) Wattle Street Lyneham 02 6249 7263
Nambucca River Co-Op Macksville 17 Cooper Street Macksville 02 6568 1163
Argyle Tavern 205 River St Maclean 02 6645 4134
Bottle Plus Malabar 3/1215 Anzac Parade Malabar 02 9661 4184
Mosman Cellars 154 Spit Road Mosman 02 9969 4368
Nambucca Liquor 36 Borwa Street Nambucca 02 6568 6714
Narooma Plaza Cellars Shop 23, Narooma Plaza, Princess Hwy Narooma 02 4476 3716
Commodore Hotel North Sydney 206 Blues Point Road North Sydney 02 9922 5098
Pitt Town Bottleshop 1A Eldon Street Pitt Town 02 4580 9007
Sutherland Bottleshop Supabarn 571 President Avenue Sutherland 02 9521 6524
Local Liquor Thirlmere 5/ 83-85 Westbourne Avenue Thirlmere 02 4681 8027
Ryans Hotel Thirroul 138 Phillip Street Thirroul 02 4267 1086
C'ellar Vie Turramurra 8 Princes Street Turramurra 02 9449 8550
Urunga Cellars 16 Bonville Street Urunga 02 6655 6012
Wanniassa Supabarn Wanniassa Group Centre, Sangster Place Wanniassa 02 6231 6851
all products can be found at the following participating stores
Want to receive future issues of SoVino magazine online? Subscribe for free at localliquor.com.au/sovino-subscription
Store Locations
contact details
32 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.
Our famous estate sits on Coonawarras renowned terra rossa soil. Ancient and iron-rich, our soil is exceptional when it comes to growing Cabernet, so much so, that wine critic James Halliday praises Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon as the most important Cabernet in Australia.
The spiritual home of australian cabernet.
Australias Most Revered Cabernet
TWE1219 WYNNS Revered Cabernet 297x210 V1.indd 1 20/08/14 2:08 PM