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a guide for lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits. spring issue 2014. exclusive to independent liquor retailers. Beautiful bubbles Add some fizz to spring racing celebrations Doing it their way Why Neil and Andrew Pike are winning awards Clare Valley Take a tour through Riesling country

SoVino - Spring Edition

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A premium publication, focusing on the fine spectrum of wines, craft beers and premium spirits. Each issue of SoVino incorporates seasonal lifestyle editorial including profiles of prominent wine regions and wine-makers, commentary with industry experts, decadent meal recipes with wine matching suggestions, and exclusive reviews for the wine aficionado.

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  • a guide for lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

    spring issue 2014. exclusive to independent liquor retailers.

    Beautiful bubbles

    Add some fizz to spring racingcelebrations

    Doing it their way

    Why Neil and Andrew Pike arewinning awards

    Clare Valley

    Take a tour through Rieslingcountry

  • Created by Coordinate for Independent Liquor Retailers Pty Ltd localliquor.com.au

    Editor: Jan OConnell Project Manager: Angie RajCreative Direction and Design: Javier SteelCover Photography and Styling: Tess Godkin

    Advertising and editorial enquiries contact:

    Samantha WatsonT 1300 408 399 F 02 6230 4278E [email protected]

    Unit 67/12 Challis Street, Dickson ACT 2602 PO Box 157, Dickson ACT 2602

    Products and prices throughout this magazine are available only at participating stores.

    Editors letter .............................................................................2

    Your Food and Wine Calendar .................................................3

    Regional food and wine events to check out this spring.

    Beautiful Bubbles .....................................................................4

    Exploding some myths about our favourite sparkling.

    Drink This With That .................................................................6

    Recipes: Spiced Pork Belly and Sticky Fig Pudding.

    Doing it their way ....................................................................10

    Pikes Wines: two brothers following their heritage.

    Meet the Locals ......................................................................14

    Coonamble Cellars: NSW Liquor Retailer of the Year.

    Riesling Country .....................................................................18

    Clare Valley: a rich past and a bright future.

    Bring Your Own .......................................................................22

    Discovering craft beers and great regional wines.

    New Product Spotlight ...........................................................25

    Spirited mixes for the cocktail hour.

    Features

    Stone & Wood Ale .......................................................................8

    Jacob's Creek Double Barrel Range ..........................................12

    Petaluma Wines ........................................................................16

    Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne ....................................................20

    Apple Truck Cider ......................................................................26

    Licor 43 .....................................................................................28

    Grey Goose Vodka ....................................................................30

  • Editors Letter

    Perhaps the most famous quote about champagne Come quickly, I am tasting the stars is

    attributed to Dom Perignon, the Benedictine monk widely credited with inventing the French

    bubbly. Sadly, its all a myth. Champagne as we know it didnt appear for a couple of centuries

    after Dom Perignon died and the quote first appeared in an advertisement in the late 19th century.

    No matter who coined the phrase, it does capture some of the magic of those bubbles. With the

    Spring Racing Carnival upon us and Christmas looming, a good many of us will be tasting the

    stars, so in this issue were looking at champagne and its Australian equivalents. In the process,

    we explode a few more myths.

    What else are we drinking as the weather warms? Perhaps a nice cold white? Recent research

    has shown that Riesling is becoming Australias favourite white, ahead of Chardonnay and

    Sauvignon Blanc. So in this issue we travel to the Clare Valley in South Australia, perhaps

    Australias stand-out region for Riesling. Still in the Clare Valley, well meet winemaker Neil Pike

    and his viticulturalist brother Andrew, the team behind the 2013 Pikes Traditionale Riesling,

    named Australias best at the most recent Canberra International Riesling Challenge.

    But wait, theres more. Whether your spring tipple is beer, wine or even the odd cocktail, youll

    find some new ideas here. And if youre not into racing, there are plenty of food and wine events

    to keep you occupied check out our calendar.

    Jan OConnell

    Editor

    editors letter

    2 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • spring calendar

    Your Food and Wine Calendar

    as the days get longer and our spirits lift, its time for some serious eating and drinking.

    11

    Hunter Valley Wine Festival

    Enjoy the extensive array of local wine,

    food, beer and cider on offer at this one-day

    festival at Lovedale in the heart of the Hunter.

    huntervalleywinefestival.com

    17 - 19

    Coonawarra Cabernet

    CelebrationsWeekend

    Enjoy the family-friendly Cabernet Festival

    marketplace, plus the famous Cabernet

    masterclass, retrospective tasting, grand

    banquet and rare wine auction.

    coonawarra.org

    17 - 2

    Orange Wine Festival

    Orange Wine Festival, formerly known as

    Orange Wine Week, highlights the region's

    premium wines through wine shows, tastings,

    workshops, tours, trails and markets.

    tasteorange.com.au

    NovemBER1

    Tumbarumba Tastebuds

    This lush spring affair showcases the best of

    Tumbarumba's food and produce. Explore the

    premium quality vineyards and cellar doors

    with free wine tasting.

    visittumbashire.com.au

    1 - 2

    Wine, Roses and all that Jazz

    Celebrate the coming of spring with cool

    climate wines and laid-back sounds at

    Canberra region wineries.

    www.canberrawines.com.au

    1 - 2

    Bitter and Twisted International

    BoutiqueBeer Festival

    A Bavarian beer breakfast, beer and food

    matching lunch, then a tour of the historic

    Maitland Gaol how can you miss it?

    bitterandtwisted.com.au

    1 30

    Good Food Month, Victoria

    This month-long celebration will showcase

    the best Melbourne and regional restaurants,

    cafes, bars and producers.

    goodfoodmonth.com

    13 - 16

    Taste of Melbourne

    Billed as four days of foodie heaven,

    Melbournes dining scene explodes with

    tasting menus, interactive masterclasses,

    boutique artisan producers, and live

    entertainment. tasteofmelbourne.com.au

    14 - 15

    Tasmanian Beerfest

    Australias largest beer festival transforms the

    Hobart waterfront into a world of boutique

    and craft beer each November, with local,

    Australian and international brews on show.

    tasmanianbeerfest.com.au

    SEPTEMBER22 - 28

    Australian Cool Climate Wine Show

    Benchmarking the unique wine styles

    produced from cool climate wine regions,

    culminating with a public tasting on 28

    September at Murrumbateman Hall.

    murrumbateman.org.au

    27

    Flavours of Mudgee

    The Mudgee Food & Wine Festival runs

    from 12 September to 5 October. This

    free street festival is the high point, with

    regional produce, wines and entertainment.

    mudgeewine.com.au

    octoBER1 - 31

    Good Food Month

    Australias largest food festival comes to

    Sydney and regional New South Wales;

    Canberra; and Brisbane and regional

    Queensland in October, then Melbourne

    and regional Victoria in November.

    goodfoodmonth.com

    4 - 6

    Murrumbateman Moving Feast

    Tantalise your taste buds with the

    Murrumbateman Moving Feast, a

    roving degustation of fine local wines

    matched with delicious tasting plates.

    makersofmurrumbateman.org.au

    spring issue 2014. 3

  • feature

    Were choosing French champagne more than

    ever. Corey Leeson, Trade Marketing Manager

    for Independent Liquor Retailers says this is

    part of a trend for us to drink less but drink

    better. The strong Aussie dollar over the last

    two years has seen the price of champagne

    fall significantly. So people are trading up from

    local wines to the imported product, he says.

    Champagne has a limited provenance the

    Champagne Region of France. Here ancient

    Romans and medieval kings enjoyed wines

    made from vines that withstood the rigours of

    the northern climate. Originally they were pale,

    pinkish wines, but by the mid-16th century

    white wines were being produced from the

    Pinot Noir grape. For centuries, though, the

    bubbles that formed in the wine during its

    secondary fermentation in the bottle were

    seen as a fault.

    Fashions change. The sparking version

    became a craze among the French nobility

    in the early 1700s, and wine-makers began

    to encourage the bubbles. Making it was a

    hazard, as carbon dioxide gas often caused

    the bottles to explode. With the industrial

    revolution in the 19th century came stronger

    bottles, improved corks and the practice of

    riddling a process that allowed sediment to

    collect on the cork and be swiftly removed

    without losing too much of the fizz and

    modern champagne was born.

    Australia has its own long tradition of sparkling

    wine production and, although we cant call it

    champagne or even mthode champenoise,

    many of the local sparklings are very

    respectable drops. As far back as 1900, an

    Australian sparkling wine won the gold medal

    at the Paris exhibition, beating the French at

    their own game.

    That wine came from Great Western in

    Victoria, owned at the time by Hans Irvine.

    He had imported bottles, machinery, and a

    French winemaker from the champagne house

    of Pommery and made wine by the traditional

    method. A story, possibly apocryphal, links

    Irvine with Dame Nellie Melba, who had

    expressed the wish to bathe in champagne.

    He commanded that a bathtub be brought

    to the winery and filled with 152 bottles of

    his sparkling wine. The diva bathed behind a

    screen. Cellar-hands later bottled the bubbly

    and claimed that, although 152 bottles went

    in, 153 bottles came out.

    A completely different kind of sparkling wine

    played a significant role in turning us into

    a nation of wine-drinkers. Barossa Pearl,

    however scornfully its referred to these days,

    changed the Australian wine industry. It was

    made using white table grapes fermented

    in pressure-controlled vessels, based on

    a German style known as Perlwein and

    introduced at the time of the 1956 Melbourne

    Olympics by Colin Gramp of Orlando. He

    believed it would appeal to young people. It

    did. While the rest of the industry watched

    with some scepticism, Barossa Pearl became

    a huge success. Competitors followed with

    more sparkling, sweetish wines: Sparkling

    Rhinegold, Starwine, Gala Spumante,

    Porphyry Pearl and Cold Duck.

    Weve come a long way since then. Just ask

    Ed Carr. From his early wine industry days as

    a microbiologist with Wynn Winegrowers at

    Magill, Carr has become Australias sparkling

    wine guru. In 1986 he was appointed sparkling

    winemaker for Seaview and Killawarra in the

    Barossa, joining Accolade Wines (formerly

    BRL Hardy) in 1994. At Hardys, he was the

    guiding hand behind well-known sparkling

    wines such Omni, Sir James and Banrock

    Station. Now he makes the best sparkling

    wine in Australia, House of Arras. Carr believes

    that Tasmania can, and should, produce

    exceptional sparkling wines equal to the

    world's best.

    James Halliday agrees, saying that the best

    sparklings are now predominantly sourced

    from Tasmania. He gives the Bay of Fires |

    House of Arras Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged

    2000 a rating of 97 up there with the French

    Krug and a whisker ahead of Louis Roederer

    Cristal. Halliday also gives high ratings to

    sparkling wines from other Tasmanian makers

    and from cool sites in southern parts of the

    mainland, including the Adelaide Hills, Yarra

    Valley and the Macedon Ranges.

    Another style that has seen a resurgence in

    popularity is sparkling red wine. Weve come

    a long way from the sparkling burgundy that

    possessed a rather seedy reputation back in

    the 1970s. These days, sparkling Shiraz from

    the Adelaide Hills, Clare, southern Victoria

    and the Canberra region are highly rated by

    critics, and building a new fan-base with wine

    drinkers, says Corey Leeson.

    French or Australian, white or red, there have

    never been so many options for your spring

    racing tipple. Whatever your choice, youre in

    good company. Cheers!

    whats a day at the races without a glass or two of bubbly? as we tense up for the spring carnivals, champagne importers see their sales go through the roof, with aussies enjoying more and more of the french fizz every year. from there, its the long slide through the christmas

    party season, culminating in the cork-popping frenzy of new years eve.

    Beautiful Bubbles

    4 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • Tasmania can, and should, produce

    exceptional sparkling wines equal to the

    world's best

    Champagne myths

    The monk Dom Perignon

    inventedchampagne

    Although he pioneered techniques to make

    white wine from red grapes, in the 17th

    century Dom Perignon would have spent most

    of his career trying to keep bubbles out of

    hischampagne.

    Champagne should pop

    whenyouopenit

    If you want to preserve the bubbles, the cork

    should be eased out with no more than a

    gentle sigh.

    Champagne glasses

    should be chilled

    No, no, no. Again, this will reduce the bubble

    action and thats what champagnes

    allabout.

    Champagne doesnt

    give you a hangover

    Alas, not true. Scientists have suggested

    champagne will give you a worse hangover

    than vodka or white wine, but not as bad as

    red wine or brandy.

    A spoon in the neck of an open bottle

    keeps champagne bubbly

    Although a group of young scientists have

    claimed to support this theory, most agree that

    its bunk.

    Champagne goes to your head

    fasterthanother drinks

    Unfortunately, this is no myth. Scientists tested

    the blood of people who drank flat champagne

    and fizzy champagne and found higher blood

    alcohol levels in those who drank the fizz.

    But they still dont know exactly why.

    Ed Carr from Tasmanias House of Arras is Australias most-awarded

    sparkling wine maker

    spring issue 2014. 5

  • drink this with that

    Taylors 2013

    Jaraman Chardonnay

    750mL Bottle $2199

    This unusual fusion of

    parcels from Clare Valley and

    Margaret River has produced

    a complex yet elegant wine.

    It has intense lifted aromas of

    melon and lime with hints of

    stone fruits, underlying notes

    of pineapple and guava and

    subtle secondary characters of flint, cedar and

    spice. The palate delivers citrus, fig and melon

    flavours with clean, mineral acidity and a touch

    of lemon zest. Texturally, its delicate, with a

    creamy mid palate and integrated oak.

    Coppabella 2012

    Pinot Noir

    750mL Bottle $1699

    The closest climate parallels to

    Tumbarumba in the Southern

    Hemisphere are Central Otago

    (New Zealand) and Tasmania,

    two of the great emerging

    new world regions for this

    style. Its little surprise then

    that great Pinot can also be

    made in Tumbarumba. This is a fragrant, lifted

    wine. Onthe palate theres strawberry and

    maraschino cherry, with gamey notes and

    Asian spices. A wonderfully textural wine with

    silky, polished tannins on the long finish.

    Tyrrells 2013

    BrookdaleSemillon

    750mL Bottle $1699

    Part of Tyrrells Hunter Heroes

    range, Brookdale Semillon

    comes from the famous HVD

    vineyard which always produces

    wines that are floral, softer, and

    more approachable than their

    other vineyards, making it a

    perfect early drinking style. The

    floral nose leads into a palate that delivers

    a fleshy, full serve of citrus and lemongrass

    flavors and a clean, light finish. The 2013

    vintage has been awarded three gold and

    three bronze medals.

    Method:

    Score skin side of the belly in a criss-cross

    pattern, but dont cut into the meat

    Mince garlic with the salt in a mortar

    and pestle. Add other spices and oil and

    mixtogether

    Rub mixture over skin of pork and place in

    fridge for an hour to dry

    Pre-heat oven to 120

    Place the belly in oven for 20 minutes

    Turn down heat to 160 and roast for a

    further 2-3 hours until cooked through and

    skin is crisp

    Rest pork for 10 minutes then slice,

    serving with mashed potato and

    applesauce

    match with...

    Roasted Spiced Pork Belly

    Ingredients:

    2 2.5kg boneless pork belly, skin on

    1tsp salt

    1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp Chinese five-spice

    powder

    Pinch ground cloves 4 garlic cloves 50ml olive oil

    Serves 4

    6 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • drink this with that

    Brown Brothers 2013

    OrangeMuscat & Flora

    750mL Bottle $1599

    This luscious late-harvested

    wine is the perfect partner for a

    wide range of desserts. Orange

    Muscat forms the backbone of

    the blend, providing aromas of

    orange blossom to the nose and

    a fresh citrus hint to the palate,

    while the Flora contributes

    colour, texture and mouth-feel. The current

    release is vibrant yellow and shows lifted

    aromas of lemon, honey, spice and musk.

    Fresh and tangy, it has a zesty long clean

    balanced finish.

    Innocent Bystander

    2014Moscato

    750mL Bottle $1699

    This stylish Moscato is made

    from old-vine Gordo (brown)

    and Black Muscat (Muscat of

    Hamburg) grapes exclusively

    grown for Innocent Bystander

    in the vineyards around Swan

    Hill on the Murray River. The

    result is pink and bubbly,

    with aromas of candyfloss, pink grapefruit

    and mandarin. Tastes of rosewater, toffee

    apple and rhubarb crumble come together

    in a spritzy fizz with a fresh pear and

    raspberryfinish.

    Morris Classic

    Liqueur Muscat

    750mL Bottle $1899

    The world-acclaimed Morris

    Liqueur Muscats are produced

    from Brown Muscat, a clone of the

    Muscat aux Petit Grains Rouge,

    grown at Morriss Rutherglen

    vineyards. The fortified Muscat

    is matured in oak casks then

    blended for richness, age and

    freshness. This Liqueur Muscat exhibits the

    aromatic fruit character and luscious flavour of

    ripe Brown Muscat grapes with a hint of wood

    dryness, resulting in an excellent dessert wine

    with mouth-filling flavour.

    Method:

    Pre-heat oven to 160o

    Line a 20cm cake tin (or individual

    mouldsif you prefer)

    Place figs and bi-carb in a bowl, boil water

    and pour over the top, stir and allow to sit

    Cream butter and sugar until

    whiteandfluffy

    Add eggs one at a time, scraping

    downsides

    Fold in half the flour, then half the fig mix,

    then remaining flour and figs

    Pour into tin and bake at 160 for 20-25

    minutes or until a skewer comes out clean

    Sticky Fig Pudding

    match with...

    Ingredients:

    180g dried figs, diced

    300ml water

    1 tsp bi-carb soda

    180g caster sugar

    60g butter , room

    temperature

    2 eggs

    180g self-raising flour

    serve hot with caramel

    sauce and cream

    Serves 4

    spring issue 2014. 7

  • supplier feature

    In this part of the world people enjoy having

    a beer when relaxing after catching a wave,

    catching a band at the pub or just catching

    up with friends. Its that sort of place, Jamie

    says. We brew beer for times like these, beer

    that is simply good to drink.

    That means brewing beer that lets the flavours

    and aromas of the ingredients shine through

    by keeping the processes to a minimum. The

    all malt beers are brewed with no additives

    and no preservatives.

    Its certainly how the locals like it, but it

    hasnt stopped there. Stone & Wood is now

    supplying its signature brews to pubs and

    bottle shops across the country. The original

    brew shed in Byron is now used to produce a

    range of limited release beers, while the main

    operation has been moved to larger premises

    in nearby Murwillumbah. There the partners

    produce their two big sellers: Pacific Ale and

    Jasper Ale, as well as a lager.

    Crisp and fresh

    Pacific Ale is brewed using all Australian

    barley, wheat and Galaxy hops. Its cloudy and

    golden with a big fruity aroma and a refreshing

    finish. After being dry hopped at the end of

    fermentation, Pacific Ale is then drawn straight

    from the storage tank at the brewery into kegs

    and bottles. Drawing it from the tank and

    straight into a keg or bottle without filtering

    or pasteurising it means that the beer can be

    enjoyed at the pub or at home in the same

    condition as it is when it comes from the tank

    at the brewery simply fresh.

    Filtering beer removes the remaining

    yeast that causes the beer to look cloudy;

    unfortunately a lot of the flavour is also

    removed by the filter, Brad Rogers says.

    Pasteurising beer usually involves a heating

    process which gives it some stability for

    shipping long distances or storing for a

    long time. Unfortunately this process can

    also knock some of the crisp freshness out

    ofthebeer.

    the philosophy behind the stone & wood brewing company has been shaped by its location: byron bay. we try to take things slow and keep it simple, says founder jamie cook. along with partners brad rogers and ross jurisich, he founded australias easternmost craft brewery back in 2008. after many years of working in the beer business, their dream was to quit working for the man, shed the corporate garbage and get back to basics.

    Take it slow and keep it simple

    8 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • The team prefers to leave the yeast in Pacific

    Ale because they believe it adds something

    special to the flavour of the beer. The yeast

    drops to the bottom of the bottle over time so

    they recommend you give the bottle a gentle

    roll or tip it upside down before opening it to

    rouse the yeast and mix it up.

    Beer for the cooler months

    Around Byron, it rarely gets really cold and

    it doesnt stay cold for long, so the climate

    doesnt favour big winter beers. Stone &

    Wood wanted to brew a beer that would suit

    the cooler months but decided that it should

    be one that also had year-round appeal. Their

    Jasper Ale contrasts with and balances the

    rest of the Stone & Wood beers.

    Jasper Ale reflects the red volcanic soil of

    the Northern Rivers hinterland and is brewed

    from a blend of pale and crystal malts. Jasper

    Ale is deep red, with spicy bitterness that

    the German Hersbrucker hops bring to the

    beer, balancing its rich malt character. The

    inspiration comes from German Alt, American

    Amber Ale and an English Brown Ale styles.

    Acting local

    Despite their national success, Stone & Wood

    still see themselves as a local company and

    they take their role in the community seriously.

    Traditionally, a brewery didnt just supply

    fresh beer to the locals, it could also be relied

    upon to help support the wider community.

    Through donations, volunteering, partnerships

    and fundraising Stone & Wood supports local

    grassroots causes to help create sustainable

    social and environmental outcomes. This

    is something that we take pride in and we

    are always looking for ways in which we can

    positively affect our community, they say.

    Brewing beer that lets the flavours and aromas of the ingredients shine through.

    2 for $112 for $11

    spring issue 2014. 9

  • winemaker feature

    Doing it their way

    The familys early heritage had more to do

    with beer than wine. The family patriarch,

    Henry Pike, emigrated from Dorset to South

    Australia in 1878. He soon established a family

    business called Pikes Dorset Brewery, later

    known as H. Pike & Co., making beer, ales,

    soft drinks and cordials. The company was

    sold in 1972 but the symbol of the English

    Pike fish that featured on his labels still graces

    Pikes wine-labels today.

    The familys involvement in wine started with

    Henrys great grandson, Edgar, who became

    a private vigneron and vineyard manager

    for a large wine company in Padthaway and

    Langhorne Creek. It was natural for his sons

    to follow in his footsteps, attending South

    Australias Roseworthy Agricultural College.

    Andrew graduated in 1976 and immediately

    joined Wynns in Coonawarra. Four years

    later, he joined Penfolds to establish a new

    vineyard project at Clare in the mid north of

    SouthAustralia.

    Meanwhile, Neil completed a vintage at Wynns

    Coonawarra in 1977, and decided to study

    Wine Production and Marketing. He graduated

    in 1980 and followed Andrew to the Clare

    Valley, where he made wine for various local

    producers. The seeds for Pikes Wines were

    sown when the brothers saw the potential of

    the area.

    It was a family enterprise, supported by Edgar

    and his wife Merle. Both now have Pikes

    wines named in their honour: the flagship

    EWP Shiraz and the premium Merle

    Riesling. In 1984, when they started planting in

    the Polish Hill River Valley sub region of Clare,

    others were doing the reverse. Grape prices

    were down and that year Penfolds vintage

    notes said it was likely that 500 hectares of

    vines would be removed from the Barossa

    Valley, Clare Valley and Angle Vale areas. Many

    old vines were lost.

    The year we first started planting vines here

    was the year the infamous vine pull was on

    here in South Australia, and people were

    removing hundreds of hectares of vineyards

    from around the place, and that's when we

    actually started planting, Neil told an ABC

    interviewer many years later.

    The first Pikes wines were released in the

    spring of 1985. Initial plantings on the 80 acre

    property were Riesling, Semillon, Cabernet,

    Merlot and Shiraz. Their champion and

    workhorse variety is Riesling.

    neil and andrew pike have often bucked industry trends on their way to joining the ranks of the clare valleys highly awarded wine producers. more than once, when others were uprooting their vines, they were planting. now, pikes wines is renowned for its riesling and well-respected for other wines in its stable. whats more, pikes is getting back to its australian roots with a well-regarded range of beers.

    Winemakers Neil (L) and Andrew Pike in the vineyard at Clare Valley.

    10 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • First planted in the Clare Valley some 150

    years ago, the Riesling grape flourishes in the

    cool environment, and Clare is considered

    to be one of the two best regions for this

    variety in the country. In 1996, Pikes beer was

    reintroduced to the market and continues to

    be a small, but increasingly important part of

    the Pike family business.

    More recently Pikes has pushed the envelope

    and produced eclectic wines like their Luccio

    range with an Italian flavour, using grapes like

    Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio. They are also

    growing the Spanish grape Tempranillo which

    fits wonderfully into the blend that makes up

    the delicious Red Mullet. Planting of Viognier

    in 1998 has turned out to be inspirational,

    says Neil. The wines produced so far have

    fulfilled their promise; and have attracted

    attention from several important international

    wine journalists.

    For the first 14 years of the Pikes operation,

    Andrew continued to work at Penfolds,

    ultimately becoming General Manager of

    Vineyard Operations for the Southcorp Wine

    Group. There he was responsible for over

    6000 hectares of corporate vineyards and

    all grape supply for the Group on a global

    basis. But in 1998 he resigned to become the

    full-time viticulturist for Pikes and to help his

    brother run the business.

    They persisted through the grape glut in the

    mid 2000s, again planting more vines. Being

    a primary industryeverything goes in cycles,

    Neil said. Far too much planting went on

    certainly in the late 90s and early noughties,

    as we call them, driven by several things, and

    obviously people got very excited about how

    much wine was being exported offshore.

    Now Pikes sells wine throughout Australia as

    well as to China, Japan, UK/Ireland, Belgium,

    Denmark, SE Asia, Canada and USA. Despite

    this, the business is still very much family

    owned and family operated. Andrew oversees

    the vineyards and Neil the winery, and both

    take a hands-on approach.

    Pikes pride themselves on making wines that

    reflect the variety, vintage and importantly the

    region. As Neil Pike states, After nearly 30

    vintages here in Clare the place still amazes

    me. It has the unique ability to produce some

    of the finest, most delicate dry Rieslings in

    the world, but can also produce full bodied

    red wines from Shiraz and Cabernet that are

    incredibly powerful. I am not aware of another

    wine region that can do this.

    The rewards are there. Pikes wines have

    garnered many awards, including the 2013

    Trophy for Australias Best Riesling at the

    prestigious Canberra International Riesling

    Challenge. Neil has also mentored some

    outstanding young winemakers, with Pikes'

    Steve Baraglia recently crowned the Clare

    Valley Winemakers 2014 Rising Star.

    The wine industry is part agriculture, part

    science and part romance. Mother Nature

    plays an important role in the process,

    with drought, frost and local wildlife all

    participants, Andrew says. But using every

    bit of their experience and local knowledge

    Andrew and Neil produce wines of great

    balance and structure even in so called

    toughyears.

    Whats more, they go about their business

    with a minimum of fuss and avoid the hoop-la

    that is sometimes associated with the wine

    industry. As the late Len Evans often said:

    Wine is a drink. Lets get on with the job

    of drinking it. The Pikes just get on with

    makingit.

    More than once, when others were uprooting

    their vines, Pikes wereplanting

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    Winemaker Neil (L) the barrel room at Clare Valley.

    spring issue 2014. 11

  • supplier feature

    South Australian wine producers Jacobs

    Creek have released a new range of red wines

    finished in whisky barrels. It reverses the

    established practice of finishing whisky (and

    sometimes other spirits) in barrels that have

    previously held wine. In double finishing the

    flavours retained by the oak barrels add subtle

    new notes to the final product.

    Whisky producers traditionally seek out barrels

    that have held sherry, port or sauternes

    although, as these become harder to obtain,

    many use old bourbon casks. Tasmanian

    whisky maker Patrick Maguire, of Sullivans

    Cove, says the barrel is an ingredient. It drives

    50 to 70 per cent of the flavour of the whisky

    and all of the colour, he says.

    Wine makers have experimented before with

    wine finished in whisky barrels. In Kentucky,

    USA, several winemakers are producing

    bourbon barrel reds. And back in 2008, an

    American importer convinced some McLaren

    Vale winemakers to experiment with a Shiraz

    aged in barrels that had previously held

    American whiskey. The resulting wine only saw

    the light of day in the States. Now the release

    of Double Barrel means Aussies can taste the

    results of this interesting marriage.

    It took the Jacobs Creek winemaking team

    two years of trials to perfect the Double Barrel

    range. Chief Winemaker Bernard Hickin says

    the process started with quality fruit from

    selected Barossa and Coonawarra vineyards.

    We started by crafting premium red wines,

    then matured them traditionally in French and

    American oak barrels. Then we finished them

    in 20-year-old whisky barrels, he says.

    The finishing in whisky barrels creates subtle

    hints of complementary flavour and introduces

    additional intricacy and a smoother texture. Its

    due to the fundamental differences between

    barrels made for ageing whisky, and those

    crafted to age wine.

    Finishing the wines in whisky barrels creates subtle hints of

    complementary flavour.

    Whisky barrels are scorched at a high heat,

    which releases their natural wood sugars,

    while their narrower staves allow for greater

    oxygen exchange. Over a long period of time,

    this imparts colour, flavour and sweetness

    to whisky and, subsequently, adds intriguing

    nuances to thewine.

    A barrel of surprisesJacobs Creeks new Double Barrel range turns an old tradition on its head.

    12 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • Jacobs Creek Double Barrel 2012 Barossa Shiraz

    Has a full and generous palate with a beguiling mix

    of sweet red fruits and dark chocolate indicative of its

    origins as Barossa Shiraz. Subtle toasty vanillin derives

    from aging in traditional French and American oak wine

    barrels. The careful use of aged Scotch whisky barrels

    for finishing has added complex nuances of almond-

    husks and also softened the dense tannins to yield an

    incrediblesmoothness.

    Food match

    Scotch Fillet of beef wrapped in smoky bacon

    Jacobs Creek Double Barrel 2012

    CoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon

    The complex palate reveals itself with style. Traditionally

    assertive Coonawarra tannins are evident at first, before

    giving way to a mid-palate filled with ripe cassis, olive

    tapenade and complex briary hints. Fine, dusty tannins give

    excellent line and length, and are layered with sweet and

    toasty characters reminiscent of crme brle. Our unique

    Double Barrel technique of finishing in aged Irish whiskey

    barrels has integrated the myriad of flavours and brought

    extra richness to the palate.

    Food match

    Roasted rack of lamb with chargrilled eggplant

    The use of Scotch whisky barrels to finish our

    Double Barrel Shiraz has imparted additional

    layers of complexity and smoothness, which

    combine beautifully with the rich varietal plum,

    fruit cake and chocolate notes of Barossa

    Shiraz, says Bernard.

    On the other hand, finishing Double Barrel

    Cabernet Sauvignon in Irish whiskey* barrels

    has integrated the black fruit flavours and

    aromatic herbal notes, softened the tannins

    and, most noticeably, added real richness

    throughout the palate.

    ________________________

    * If you saw our winter edition of SoVino, youll understand

    that whisky, without the e, comes from Scotland

    (and, apparently, Tasmania) while the Irish or

    American product is whiskey, with an e.

    Bernard Hickin

    750mL

    Bottle

    $1999

    750mL

    Bottle

    $1999

    spring issue 2014. 13

  • store profile

    Coonamble Cellars

    Coonamble lies at the hub of a wheat, sheep

    and beef-producing region in the central-west

    of New South Wales. Rodney Vallett was born

    and bred there but left to spend 13 years with

    the liquor giant Lion. Coonamble was always

    home though, and when he saw that the

    licence for Coonamble Cellars was up for

    grabs he leapt at the chance to return to his

    country roots. I could see the potential here,

    says Rodney. Thats why I moved back.

    The business had been a stand-alone liquor

    outlet for 15 years when Rodney took over

    in January 2011. Already hes made great

    strides, being named New South Wales

    top bottle shop in the Retail Liquor Industry

    Awards for Excellence 2013.

    how did you get started

    in this business?

    As soon as I was 18 I started working in the

    liquor trade. Coonambles a big party town

    and I used to run functions. Its a big part

    of my business again, looking after football

    functions, the race track, weddings and so on.

    I look after everything, call in staff to do table

    service. People here know they can leave it all

    to me. Theres an 18th birthday coming up this

    weekend a kid well known in the town, so

    that will be a big one

    who are

    your customers

    We get all sorts, from people on benefits and

    local workers to the local cockies.

    what do they buy?

    Around 50% of our turnover is beer, and 90%

    of that is XXXX Gold. Next biggest volume is

    in RTDs, especially with the younger people.

    Were part of the towns Liquor Accord, where

    we work closely with other retailers and the

    police to reduce alcohol-related crime, so we

    dont sell full-strength beer before 12 oclock

    and we close at 10pm.

    what is the

    biggest challenge

    you face?

    The biggest challenge around here isnt

    business-related, its lack of rain. Wheat is

    big money and when theres not much wheat

    it affects everyone. Its not just that people

    spend less, there arent as many people in

    the community. In a good year you get extra

    workers coming in, more trucks and so on.

    how are

    you building

    your business?

    Im working on growing our wine sales and

    SoVino is part of that strategy helping to

    educate my customers about wine. I get

    involved in promotions run by the wine

    companies and Im training up my staff so

    theyre more knowledgeable. And, of course,

    the function business is important too. I have

    one other full-time staff member, with three

    casuals in the store and another six on call

    forfunctions.

    what do you

    like most about

    what you do?

    Its satisfying to feel that the business is

    successful. The award was great. Weve also

    been a big challenge to our opposition in

    town. Im a competitive sort of person, so its

    good to feel like a winner.

    Rodney Vallett (r) with Lain Vallett in his successful Coonamble Cellars store

    14 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • THE JOHNNIE WALKER, BLACK LABEL AND DOUBLE BLACK WORDS, THE STRIDING FIGURE DEVICE AND ASSOCIATED LOGOS ARE TRADE MARKS. JOHN WALKER & SONS 2014.

    DDJ1559_Sovino_297x210_Taste_Rev2.indd 1 11/08/2014 10:28 am

  • supplier feature

    Dis t i ngu i shed Vineyards

    petalumas approach to wine making

    begins with the selection of the site.

    Andrew Hardys aim is for the fruit to do the talking.

    The distinguished vineyards concept

    is close to the heart of Petalumas

    founder, Brian Croser. In the mid

    1970s, he saw that mainstream

    viticulture and improved winemaking

    technologies were producing

    consistent, but mostly average wines.

    There was a critical element needed

    to come first: the site.

    As a result, his immediate objective

    for Petaluma was to select the best

    sites within particular regions for a

    specific grape variety, with a view to

    producing ultra-premium wines. This

    approach was a revolution in thinking

    that pushed Petaluma ahead of other

    wineries of the time and became the

    foundation of truly great wines.

    Petalumas distinguished vineyards

    sites are in three of South Australias

    premier wine regions Coonawarra,

    Clare Valley and the Adelaide Hills.

    The first two were well established

    wine areas, where Petaluma acquired

    existing vineyards. The Hanlin Hill

    vineyard in the Clare Valley was

    planted in 1968 on the Eastern

    Hills. Its slate geology and climate

    are perfect for the production of

    the highest quality Riesling with a

    backbone of high natural acidity and

    intense rich lime flavours.

    In Coonawarra the Evans vineyard

    was planted in 1968 and lies in the

    heart of Coonawarras famous Terra

    Rossa red clay over limestone soils.

    With the moderating influence of the

    cold Southern Ocean on the climate

    the region produces elegant and

    long-lived Cabernet Sauvignon and

    Merlotwines.

    The third site required considerably

    more vision. Petaluma was the first

    to plant vines in the Picadilly Valley

    and Mt Barker regions of the Adelaide

    Hills. Tucked in behind Mt Lofty,

    the Piccadilly Valley is the coolest

    viticultural region in the Adelaide

    Hills, with a jigsaw of sub-valleys and

    underlying geology up to 1800 million

    years old.

    The Adelaide Hills

    Petaluma - Andrew Hardy, Head Winemaker

    16 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • Petaluma White

    Label Chardonnay

    The 2013 vintage was preceded by wonderful

    autumn and winter rain, before completely

    drying out. The vineyards were in beautiful

    condition at vintage. This wine combines fruit

    from Petalumas Lenswood and Piccadilly

    vineyards and received nine months of barrel

    ageing before bottling. It displays citrus,

    creamy lees and cashews, with hints of peach

    and nectarine. On the palate, grapefruit and

    toast combine with peach and melon to

    produce a complex, mouth filling wine in a

    fresh fruit-driven style. This wine will reward

    careful cellaring.

    Petaluma White Label

    Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2012

    Petalumas vineyards on the slopes of Mt

    Barker on the eastern edge of the Adelaide

    Hills received wonderful soaking winter rain

    and useful spring and early summer rain,

    before drying out and warming up - perfect

    Shiraz ripening conditions. The 2012 Petaluma

    White Label Shiraz is a bright, spicy vibrant dry

    red. The aroma has cherries and blackberries

    and lovely spice and pepper. Fine oak sits

    nicely in the background. The palate is fresh,

    lifted, rich and bright with a savoury finish.

    Lovely soft sandy tannins signal this as a

    drink-now style, but one that will also reward

    careful cellaring.

    Petaluma Yellow Label

    Hanlin Hill Riesling

    Petalumas Yellow Label represents the

    flagship wines of the portfolio. Winemaker

    Brian Croser describes this Riesling as a "dry

    late picked style". A benchmark Riesling from

    the Hanlin Hill vineyard in the Clare Valley, it

    can be enjoyed now but is crafted to age and

    if cellared carefully will reward your patience.

    Intense aromatic and floral aromas lift from the

    glass with hints of juicy citrus characters. It

    displays powerful lemon and lime flavours and

    wonderful fruit sweetness, with a flinty texture

    and dry, elongated finish. Hanlin Hill Riesling

    has been classified by Langtons, the honour

    roll of fine Australian wine.

    The now 30-year-old vineyards are

    relatively steep. They face north and

    east to receive the full benefit of the

    warming early mornings and produce

    delicate Chardonnay flavours with

    high natural acidity. Petalumas first

    100% Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay

    was released in 1990.The cooler

    aspects of the Piccadilly Valley site are

    used for the production of Pinot Noir

    for Petalumas sparkling wine, Croser.

    The Mt Barker vineyard was planted

    from 1992 in the sandy loam soils

    of the warm western flank of the Mt

    Barker summit. Underlying granitic

    schist geology is ideal for taming the

    vigorous Shiraz variety.

    Led by senior wine-maker Andrew

    Hardy, the Petaluma team see

    themselves as 'custodians of

    the vineyards', believing that if

    the vineyards are great, and the

    winemaking responsive, the wines

    will be outstanding. If Andrew was

    restricted to one word to describe his

    winemaking philosophy, it would be

    minimalist; his aim is for the fruit to

    do the talking. The style changes he

    has implemented have been subtle.

    In the Chardonnay there has been a

    decrease in new oak and malolactic

    fermentation, with whole bunch

    pressing used to add complexity. The

    Coonawarra is very much focused

    on fruit from the Evans vineyards

    old vines and Hardy is intent on the

    wine displaying the true terroir of

    Coonawarras famed red dirt.

    Petalumas wines from all regions

    are available for tasting and sale at

    their cellar door and award winning

    restaurant - Petalumas Bridgewater

    Mill in the Adelaide Hills as well as

    from fine wine shops and restaurants

    throughout Australia.

    Pet

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    DLE

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    750mL

    Bottle

    $1999

    750mL

    Bottle

    $2499

    750mL

    Bottle

    $2299

    spring issue 2014. 17

  • region feature

    RIESLING COUNTRYthe clare valley is something of a paradox. it sits in south australias mid-north hot, dry country with little ground water. yet its famous for riesling, a wine youd traditionally associate with the cooler european climates of mosel and alsace. rieslings from the clare valley regularly carry off thetop awards at wine shows in australia and overseas.

    The explanation lies in the regions complex

    geography. Situated in the Mount Lofty

    ranges, around two hours north of Adelaide,

    the Clare Valley Wine Region is made up of

    twelve separate valleys separated by low

    rolling hills. It is subdivided into five sub-

    regions: Clare, Sevenhill, Watervale, Polish Hill

    River and Auburn. These sub-regions vary in

    soil-type, altitude and climate, giving each its

    distinctive terroir.

    This, as well as the different aspects of the

    Clare hillsides, means that the region can

    also produce red wines of great distinction.

    Clare Valley reds have won their share of

    international awards, including World's Best

    Shiraz at Londons top wine competitions

    - the International Wine Challenge and the

    International Wine & Spirit Competition.

    It didnt happen overnight. The history of

    viticulture in the Clare Valley goes back to

    the mid-19th century. The area was explored

    by Edward John Eyre in the late 1830s and

    first settled by his friend and associate,

    John Horrocks. Horrocks planted vines at

    his property Hope Farm in 1840. He was

    followed by Irishman Edward Gleeson,

    who established a sheep station and, in

    1846, named the village Clare after his

    nativecounty.

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    18 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • Unlocking the secrets of the Clare Valley is a pastime open to all who

    visit this most beautifulpart of Australia James Halliday

    Two years later, a group of Jesuits from Silesia

    (now part of Poland) settled in a village they

    called Sevenhill, a reference to the seven

    hills of Rome. They planted vines in 1851

    and established Sevenhill Cellars, the oldest

    existing winery in South Australia. Sevenhill is

    still operated by the Jesuits, but has expanded

    its range considerably beyond the sacramental

    wine they first produced.

    In its early years the Clare Valley was famous

    not for wine but for copper. In 1842 rich

    deposits of the metal were discovered at

    Kapunda, followed by fresh discoveries at

    Burra. For the first ten years of its existence,

    the Burra mine was the largest in Australia.

    It made South Australia prosperous until low

    copper prices brought an end to mining in

    1877. Nearly 100 years later open cut mining

    recommenced, but the ore was exhausted

    by 1981. Much of the mining heritage is

    preserved and is now a draw card for visitors.

    As well as the Cornish miners who came for

    the copper, English, Irish, Polish and German

    settlers came to farm. They planted their own

    small orchards and vineyards and by the early

    1890s there were 150 acres of vines in the

    valley. By the end of the century, table wines

    were being exported to Britain. Today, there

    are more than 40 wineries large companies

    as well as small, boutique affairs with their own

    cellar doors. The wineries all sit along a narrow

    40km corridor between Auburn and Clare.

    Along with Riesling, Shiraz and Cabernet

    there are plantings of Chardonnay, Semillion,

    Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Mourvedre,

    Merlot, Tempranillo, Grenache and others.

    The climate of the Clare Valley is described

    as moderately continental. Dry summer heat

    keeps fungal diseases to a minimum, but

    because the vineyards here are higher than

    others in South Australia from 400 to 500

    metres nights are cool to cold, allowing fruit

    to ripen slowly and evenly. Most of the rain

    falls in winter and early spring, so irrigation is

    often required.

    The varying soil types impart different

    characters to the grapes. For example, the

    Polish Hill River soils are harsh, full of rocks

    and slate. The vines that struggle to survive

    here produce Rieslings that display elegance,

    intensity and a high degree of minerality. Just

    nine kilometres away, in the Watervale sub

    region, the classic red loam over limestone

    soil produces wines of a more floral style.

    As well as award-winning wines, the Clare

    Valley can claim another honour. In 2000, a

    group of Clare wine producers, led by Jeffrey

    Grosset, pioneered the introduction of the

    screw cap. While not the first in the world (the

    Swiss had been using screw caps on their

    cheaper wines for more than 20 years) it was

    the beginning of a movement towards this

    new closure. Although they lack the romance

    of cork, screw caps provide a reliable seal,

    avoiding oxidisation, cork taint and flavour

    changes, particularly important for delicate

    wines like Riesling.

    The gourmet weekend was also pioneered

    here. Australias first gourmet weekend was

    held in the Clare Valley in 1984 and has been

    celebrated in May each year since then.

    Theres a lot to celebrate, and its not just

    wine. The region is fast becoming a craft beer

    hub. Knappstein Enterprise Brewerys Reserve

    Lager, Pikes Oakbank Sparkling Ale and

    Clare Valley Brewing Co. Bulls Eye Australian

    Pale Ale were all named by the Adelaide

    Advertisers beer writer, Mark Gribble, among

    Australias top ten.

    Theres also locally grown produce served

    in beautiful historic buildings: everything

    from grain-fed chicken and organic lamb to

    chutney and extra virgin olive oils. There are

    markets, fairs and country shows, heritage

    buildings to explore, conservation parks

    where you can see giant 50,000 year old

    wombat fossils, and majestic colonial homes.

    Chances are youll agree with Australian wine

    writer James Halliday, who said, Unlocking

    the secrets of the Clare Valley is a pastime

    open to all who visit this most beautiful part

    ofAustralia.

    The Riesling Trail

    While most visitors are content to explore

    Clare Valleys charms by car, you can

    swap four wheels for two (or even ditch

    the wheels altogether) and walk or

    cycle along the Riesling Trail. The trail

    owes its existence to a disaster the

    Ash Wednesday bushfires that severely

    damaged the railway line between Clare

    and Penwortham. The old rail route has

    been converted into a 33km trail that

    criss-crosses the valley, passing through

    vineyards, wineries and historic towns.

    Its a peaceful and safe thoroughfare

    with a gentle gradient and is even

    wheelchair friendly.

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    spring issue 2014. 19

  • supplier feature

    A diverse range of champagnes united by a unique character.

    Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte is different.

    Originally created for Hollywood royalty and

    the European beau monde, its champagne

    with a contemporary twist. A relatively young

    house, its style and innovation have captured

    the imagination of the champagne drinkers in

    more than 40 countries. Founded in 1976,

    Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte has grown from

    a small family vineyard to become the fourth

    largest selling champagne brand in the world

    and the largest selling champagne in France.

    This growth was possible because of a

    unique arrangement for grape supply. In 1986

    Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte joined with the

    Centre Vinicole de la Champagne, an alliance

    that represents more than 5000 vineyards.

    Not only is the grape supply diverse, but

    the different varieties are also of extremely

    high quality. Nicolas Feuillatte is the only

    Champagne House of any size that produces

    all of its cuves exclusively from Premier Cru

    and Grand Cru classed vineyards.

    Made up of 25% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir

    and 50% Pinot Meunier, the grapes represent

    an unparalleled aromatic spectrum. This

    gives chief winemaker David Henault great

    scope to create the signature House style:

    a diverse range of champagnes united by

    auniquecharacter.

    20 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • The art and the know-how

    At each stage of the vinification, authenticity

    and refusal to compromise over quality are

    paramount. Harvesting and pressing are

    subjected to the greatest vigilance to preserve

    the fruits integrity, with presses located near

    the vineyards.

    David Henault, supported by an experienced

    team of oenologists, oversees the blending.

    With an extremely wide palette of crus at their

    disposal, they retain the best of each harvest

    to make the Nicolas Feuillatte cuves.

    The Nicolas Feuillatte champagnes range

    from the mainstay of the brand, Brut Reserve

    Particulire, to the romantic Cuve Palmes

    d'Or Vintage. The legend of Palmes dOr

    originates from Nicolas Feuillatte himself

    and his love for a young opera singer in

    the 1950s. Nearly 30 years later, in his

    homage to an unquenched love, he created

    a special champagne in the image of his

    Diva: extravagant, fantastic, sublime

    andunforgettable.

    Angove Family Winemakers, the fifth-

    generation Australian winemaking company,

    is the exclusive importer and sole distributor

    for Palmes dOr and other Champagne

    Nicolas Feuillatte wines in Australia. For more

    information visit www.angove.com.au

    Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose

    A coppery salmon pink colour, this cuvee

    is a fine companion for those special

    moments. The blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 10%

    Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier provides

    aromas of blackberries, raspberries, red

    currants and strawberries while remaining

    delicate and giving a feeling of lightness

    andconviviality.

    Nicolas Feuillatte Cuve

    Palmesd'OrVintage

    A noble and complex wine: the apogee of

    Nicolas Feuillatte expertise. Composed from a

    blend of the winemaker's favourite wines, this

    cuvee displays the excellence of the vintage.

    Only exceptional harvests are judged worthy

    of being part of its composition. With complex

    and subtle aromas, on the palate this cuve

    is finely balanced, velvety and harmonious.

    The vintage is presented in Palmes dOrs

    signature and uniquely beautiful black bottle.

    Best enjoyed when chilled to between six

    and nine degrees Celsius, it is designed to

    complement delicacies like caviar, truffles

    andlobster.

    750mL Bottle $4999

    Nicolas Feuillatte Cuve Palmes

    d'OrRos Vintage

    A rare and precious wine: all the expertise

    of Nicolas Feuillatte is brought to bear in this

    exceptional cuve. The grapes were carefully

    selected: Pinot Noir from Bouzy for its power,

    Pinot Noir from Les Riceys for its character

    and amazing perfume. The wine-makers skill

    was then fully revealed by choosing the "ros

    de saigne" technique. In this method, the

    grape must remain in contact with the skins

    for a short time. The natural pigments in the

    skins of the black grapes begin to colour

    the juice, enriching it with their aromatic

    components. This exceptional cuve is

    characterised by its smoothness and harmony.

    Blend Pinot Noir 50% Bouzy, 50% Les Riceys.

    Nicolas Feuillatte Brut

    ReserveParticulire

    This wine is the consistent expression of the

    true Nicolas Feuillatte style. A light golden

    colour with a floral nose. The blend of 40%

    Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot

    Meunier reveals subtle hints of pear and

    apple with touches of almonds and hazelnuts.

    A well balanced and elegant champagne

    that expresses true Premier and Grand

    Cruqualities.

    spring issue 2014. 21

  • lick pier

    ginger beer

    Lick Pier is a refreshingly dry alcoholic ginger

    beer made in an untraditional manner, but with

    a traditional taste that'll make you ask, 'what's

    going on here? Channelling Los Angeles, but

    actually produced in the Melbourne suburb of

    Prahran, this ginger beer from East9th Brewing

    Company is named for a famous Venice

    Beach amusement pier. At 4.0% alcohol,

    Lick Pier is brewed for refreshment, and the

    dry ginger flavour creates a clean aftertaste

    designed for sessionability. Its a perfect warm-

    weather drink, served on ice and shared with

    friends. For a different twist, serve it with a

    wedge of lime.

    bighead australias

    first no carb beer

    Burleigh Brewers named this one Bighead in

    honour of the volcanic headland above the

    Burleigh Heads surf beach. The small team at

    this Gold Coast craft brewery found existing

    low carb beers a bit one-dimensional. So they

    set themselves the task of reducing the carbs

    without losing substance and character. By

    respecting age-old craft brewing techniques,

    theyve produced a full-flavoured, full-strength

    beer that is 100% natural (free of additives

    and preservatives) with zero carbs and

    only 88 calories per bottle. Bighead has

    twice won a silver medal at the World

    Beer Championships.

    mt macedon

    pale ale

    Mt Macedon dominates the landscape

    overlooking the Holgate brewery in Woodend,

    north east of Melbourne. Its massive, moody

    and magnificent, not to mention insanely

    popular with tourists and locals alike, the

    Holgate team quips. No wonder they named

    it after our beer. A new world blend of New

    Zealand Nelson Sauvin hops, American

    Amarillo and Citra hops, balanced by a malt

    base of Australian Vienna gives this brew a

    delicate caramel malt flavour complemented

    by pine and citrus hop aromas. The result

    is a pale ale of broad appeal and, like the

    mountain, a local landmark.

    byo feature

    spring weather can be changeable, but as the season rolls on and well be getting out more therell be plenty of opportunities to share a cold one. but instead of sticking to the tried and true, how about seeking out something different? australias craft brewers are only too happy to oblige. even though these enterprising souls only produce a small percentage of australian beer, there are more and more of them more than 100 scattered around the country. and theyre innovators, forever pushing the boundaries with new ideas la-inspired ginger beer and no-carb beer for starters.

    Local brews

    4pk $1799 6pk $19996pk $1999

    22 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • its called terroir the unique combination of geography, geology and climate that makes up the growing environment for wine grapes. and while grape-growing practices can modify the effects of terroir, different wine regions almost inevitably have signature styles, wines that are a true reflection of their location. sauvignon blanc and marlborough are virtually synonymous and this squealing pig release displays all the classic regional characteristics. the cold climate of tumbarumba and the maritime breezes of margaret river have also played their part in developing the regional characteristics of our other byo picks.

    and regional classics.

    barking tree 2011

    cabernet merlot

    Nestled in the renowned region of Margaret

    River, the Barking Tree winery has the ideal

    Mediterranean maritime climate, similar to that

    of Bordeaux in a dry vintage. Barking Tree has

    a combination of new and old vines, steep

    slopes, loamy soils and deep gravels. The

    result is the ability to produce excellent and

    unique fruit and wines of the highest quality. In

    the 2011 Cabernet Merlot, the cabernet fruit

    creates good length and depth, with aromas of

    cassis berry fruit, lifted by merlot overtones of

    dark chocolate to create an elegant medium-

    bodied palate. Enjoy with red meat dishes and

    Asian-influenced cuisine.

    coppabella the crest 2012

    tumbarumba chardonnay

    Ultra-premium Chardonnay has to be grown in

    an ultra-cool region hard to find in Australia.

    Coppabella is in Tumbarumba, in the foothills

    of the Snowy Mountains; theres nowhere

    cooler on the Australian mainland. This is

    new-age Chardonnay that throws down the

    gauntlet to the best of Burgundy and points

    to the future of the variety in Australia. Spicy,

    nutty French oak plays second fiddle to the

    nectarine and citrus fruit. The wine is poised

    and elegant, finishing with pristine, cleansing

    acidity. Its no surprise that this wine was

    a gold medallist at the prestigious Sydney

    International Wine Competition.

    750mL Bottle $1999

    750mL Bottle $1499

    750mL Bottle $2299

    squealing pig

    2013 marlborough

    sauvignon blanc

    Squealing Pig vineyard is located in the

    Marlborough region near the mouth of the

    Awatere River, where the climate is distinctly

    maritime. This is a classic Marlborough wine

    with aromas of gooseberry and fresh garden

    herbs, pungent nettle and passionfruit, all of

    which are underpinned with a steely minerality.

    The palate is clean and linear, with long, chalky

    acidity. Punchy gooseberry and passionfruit

    flavours combine with mineral characteristics

    to form a complete palate; layered and

    expressive. Sauvignon Blanc is springtime in

    a glass, and the wine should be drunk while

    still reflecting its vibrant zesty fruit palate

    andliveliness.

    spring issue 2014. 23

  • new product spotlight

    New Product Spotlight

    building on success

    canadian club spiced

    Australians have taken to Canadian Club, a whisky that traces its history

    back to 1858 in Walkerville, Ontario. Were in line with a worldwide

    trend. Canadas whisky exports grew by nearly 25% in 2013 with

    producers coming out with new high-end releases.

    Canadian Club Original has been a huge success in Australia and were

    confident consumers will love the taste and versatility of Canadian Club

    Spiced, says marketing director Trent Chapman.

    The new release blends Original Canadian Club Whisky with extracts of

    vanilla, allspice, black pepper, cinnamon, clove, juniper berry and mace.

    The result is a unique whisky-drinking experience. The sweet grain

    and spicy aromas are followed by sweet fruit and spice flavours on the

    palate and a long luscious finish. Canadian Club Spiced is a great mixer

    in long drinks and cocktails or can be enjoyed over ice.

    best of british

    gordons elderflower spritz

    pimms & lemonade

    Elderflower is one of the most British flavours around. The Brits have

    been making elderflower and elderberry wine and elderflower cordials

    for centuries. And what could be more British than Gordons, the worlds

    best-selling London Dry Gin? Combining these two classic tastes with

    soda, Gordons Elderflower Spritz has an attractive floral, aromatic

    bergamot and elderflower scent. Theres a delicate elderflower flavour

    with pleasant gin botanicals and a citrus touch, leaving a refreshing and

    clean taste on the palate.

    Pimms No 1 Cup is another English icon, long associated with the

    tennis at Wimbledon where theyre reputed to get through over 80,000

    pints of the stuff every year. This new release is a fresh twist on the

    classic, with Pimms topped with lemonade and ginger ale. Youll notice

    the bitters and spice notes upfront, followed by a nice ginger aroma

    and lime in the background. The smooth ginger ale with a citrus twist

    is intertwined with the signature Pimms aromatics. The finish is dry

    with a subtle citrus aftertaste. Serve it over ice in a long glass, with the

    traditional garnish of cucumber, mint leaves and an orange slice.

    The finish is dry with a

    subtle citrus aftertaste

    Canadian Club Spiced is a great mixer in long drinks & cocktails...

    750mL Bottle $3599

    500mL Bottles

    3 for $20

    500mL Bottles 3 for $20

    spring issue 2014. 25

  • supplier feature

    NRL fans know Dane Tilse as the

    Leagues tallest player, the two-metre tall

    prop who provides the Canberra Raiders

    with punch in the middle of the field.

    But Dane has another life outside footy:

    hes the Canberra representative for his

    familys cider business.

    Dane and his brother Luke used to spend

    summer holidays picking apples at his

    grandfathers orchard in the upper Hunter

    Valley near Moonan Flat. The orchard is

    situated at the foot of the Barrington Tops

    and has been in the family since 1916.

    There are two mountain streams that run

    through the property, helping to create

    what we reckon are some of the most

    beautiful Red Delicious and Granny Smith

    apples in the world, says Dane.

    Originally the fruit was sold through the

    familys own fruit and vegetable shops

    in the area, with Dane and Lukes Pa

    delivering them in his apple truck. But

    when the big supermarkets arrived the

    shops couldnt withstand the competition

    and eventually the orchard business

    was struggling too. It was Luke who

    suggested cider as the solution.

    raiders stalwart has something on the cider

    COMING UP APPLES

    26 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • We thought making cider would be a

    good way to do a bit of a value-add to

    the apples. We started experimenting

    with it and came up with the brand in

    relation to my Pas truck, he says. The

    cider business is competitive, but Apple

    Truck has been steadily carving out a

    market, starting with the local area and,

    thanks to Dane, in Canberra.

    Although the Tilses pulled out about two-

    thirds of their trees around 12 years ago,

    theyre now considering planting more

    to supplement the remaining 50-year old

    trees. The cider is made in batches and

    over the past three years batch sizes

    have risen from 10 tonnes to around 30

    tonnes, which yields about 25,000 litres

    of cider.

    The batch process means that each

    release has its own character, much like

    wine. We let the apples determine the

    flavour, Luke says. Apple Truck Cider

    is made by Hunter Valley Wine Services

    winemakers Thomas Hordern and

    Tony Hewitt in a former dairy building

    inMuswellbrook.

    Cider lovers are keen, praising the purity,

    the low level of carbonation and the

    flavour. To quote from James Adams

    widely-read blog All About Cider: The

    palate was overall a pleasing experience

    too which offered up a perfect, cleansing

    dryness. Lovely hints of red apple were

    lifted by the musk characters which

    complemented each other seamlessly.

    The Granny Smith apples delivered

    mouth-watering acidity leaving the

    palate crisp, sharp and focused.

    Iwaspleasantly surprised to see some

    phenolic presence on the palate, along

    with some back palate bitterness and

    heat from the alcohol.

    While most people like their Apple Truck

    Cider straight, it can also make a base for

    cocktails. The Apple Truck people warn

    that cider cocktails need to be treated

    with caution! They can be deceptively

    easy to drink but the combined strength

    of the cider and the spirits used can

    catch up with you. As such, too many,

    too fast could see you groggily waving

    down a cab earlier in the night than

    expected! Using a traditional style cider

    like ATC can be a great alternative too

    sickly sweet juices or liqueurs, though,

    say Dane and Luke Tilse. Here are a

    couple of their personal favourites.

    DANE & LUKE'S FAVOURITE APPLE

    TRUCK CIDER COCKTAILS

    truck stone fence

    1 part Appleton Rum (the older the better)

    2 parts Tilses Apple Truck Cider

    Dash of vanilla syrup

    Method

    Pour Appleton Rum over ice in an Old Fashioned glass.

    Add a dash of vanilla syrup, then the Apple Truck Cider.

    With a bar spoon, gently bring the rum to the top of the glass.

    vanilla truck martini

    2 parts Absolut Vanilla

    3 parts Tilses Apple Truck Cider

    Dash of sugar syrup

    Wedge of lemon

    Sprig of thyme

    Wedge of Granny Smith apple

    Method

    Muddle the thyme, apple, and lemon.

    Add the sugar syrup, Apple Truck Cider, and Absolut Vanilla.

    Shake well with lots of ice.

    Strain into a chilled martini glass.

    Garnish with a cross section of granny smith apple

    floatinginthecocktail with a sprig of thyme.

    4pk $1499

    spring issue 2014. 27

  • supplier feature

    Liquor 43 (pronounced as Cuarenta Y Tres in

    Spanish) has been the top selling liqueur in

    Spain for decades. But although international

    distribution began in the 1960s, it took a while

    for this versatile drop to hit its stride. Those

    who try it will almost certainly become fans.

    Parents brought me back a bottle of this

    wondrousness from Spain, enthused one

    happy tippler. Discovered that on the rocks,

    it's possibly the best drink in the world,

    and if you combine it with Coca Cola, you

    end up with alcoholic Vanilla Coke, which is

    undoubtedly superior to everything else. Ill be

    purchasing this repeatedly.

    The Spanish makers of Licor 43 cloak their

    product in myth and legend, saying its the

    descendent of a local liqueur enjoyed by

    the ancient Romans when they conquered

    Spain in 209 BC. Certainly Cartagena, where

    Licor 43 is made, is an ancient town where

    Carthaginians, Romans, Goths, Moors and

    early Christian kings have left their marks. But

    since the process of distilling wasnt invented

    for another ten centuries or so, their story

    about the Romans Licor Mirabilis is probably

    a romantic fantasy.

    Whatever its origins in the distant past, the

    liqueur you can buy today has been around

    since 1924. The company was founded by

    Diego, Angel and Josephina Zamora Conesa

    and Josephinas husband, Emilio Restoy

    Godoy and is still family-owned. A local

    favourite since those early years, Licor 43 is

    now sold in more than 55 countriesworldwide.

    The name comes from the 43 ingredients

    that make up the secret formula, one closely

    guarded by the Zamora family. Apparently only

    three people from three generations of the

    family currently know the recipe. Only natural

    ingredients are used: carefully selected fruits

    and herbs from the Mediterranean basin.

    Licor 43 has an elegant and bright golden

    tone, and a sharp and complex aroma. The

    citrus essences capture the very spirit of

    the Mediterranean, giving Licor 43 a warm

    character, rounded by a delicate vanilla

    touch. Some people detect a hint of aged

    rum. Sweetness and alcoholic lift are nicely

    balanced, producing a liqueur thats great on

    its own or mixed with juice, coffee, cola, milk,

    soda or almost any other spirit or ingredient

    you can imagine.

    A golden liqueur once little-known outside its native country is starting to make waves on the cocktail circuit.

    The SpanishSecret

    700mL Bottle $4499

    28 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • I enjoy it best served neat after some hours

    in the freezer, says an enthusiast. It just gets

    a rich consistency and a mellower flavour...

    perfection! Yet another drinker suggests

    the opposite: Light it on fire at an angle and

    gently swirl. It's like an angry marshmallow

    over the campfire.

    Despite the enthusiasm for drinking it straight,

    Licor 43 is nothing if not versatile. A favourite

    way to serve it internationally is in a mini beer

    mug with a topping of heavy cream to mimic

    the foamy head. Looks like a mini-beer, tastes

    much more decadent. As an aperitif, try a

    Caipirinha. Fill a glass with ice-cubes, pour in

    a shot of Licor 43, add freshly squeezed lime

    juice and top up with tonic water. The tonic

    waters bitterness harmonises with the limes

    acidity and the subtle sweetness of the liqueur.

    Other suggestions include mixing one part of

    Licor 43 with three parts of cold milk, orange

    juice or pineapple juice. Add ice and enjoy.

    Theres no shortage of fancier cocktails using

    this golden liqueur. Try some of our favourites

    and discover a new taste of Spain.

    Key Lime Pie1 part Licor 43

    1 part vodka

    1 part lime juice

    Shake ingredients with ice.

    Strain and serve in a martini glass

    Spanish Martini2 parts Licor 43

    2 parts gin

    Add ingredients to an ice-filled shaker.

    Shake and strain into a martini glass.

    Garnish with a Spanish olive

    Sparkling 431 part Licor 43

    3 parts cava (Spanish sparkling wine)

    Lemon segments

    Combine ingredients in a

    champagneglassAdd ice cubes

    Despite the enthusiasm for drinking it straight, Licor 43 is nothing if not versatile.

    spring issue 2014. 29

  • 2supplier feature

    Grey Goose Press

    45ml Grey Goose vodka

    30ml St. Germain elderflower liqueur

    20ml freshly squeezed lime juice

    60ml cold soda water

    Method

    Fill a cocktail shaker with ice.

    Pour the Grey Goose, St. Germain and lime over the ice.

    Shake briefly.

    Double strain into a chilled flute.

    Top with the soda and garnish with a stirrer.

    60ml Grey Goose vodka

    30ml fresh squeezed lemon juice

    1tsp fine granulated white sugar

    75ml soda water

    Method

    Add Grey Goose vodka and lemon juice to a rocks glass.

    Add cubed ice and stir.

    Add sugar to taste, stirring to dissolve.

    Top with soda water.

    Garnish with a Grey Goose stirrer.

    does vodka immediately say russia to you? sweden? how about france? it shouldnt be too surprising, since for centuries france has produced one of the finest luxury spirits in the world cognac. and it was to the cognac region that american businessman and spirits aficionado sidney frank turned in 1996, when he decided to pursue his dream of a super-premium vodka.

    Mix it with the best. Grey Goose Vodka

    1

    Four cocktails to try now

    Grey Goose Le Fizz

    30 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • 3 4

    There he found Franois Thibault, a cognac

    maitre de chai or cellar master, a title given

    only to highly skilled master blenders and

    distillers after years of apprenticeship. When

    Thibault announced that he intended to use

    his considerable spirits-making skills to create

    a French vodka, people in the region were

    sceptical. Now the vodka he created, Grey

    Goose, is enjoyed around the world.

    Vodka can be made from many things,

    including wheat, rye, beets, corn, potatoes,

    and sugar cane. Those produced from grain,

    in particular wheat, tend to be smoother. Grey

    Goose is made with soft winter wheat grown

    in the Picardy region of France. Only the

    highest grade of bread-making wheat is used.

    My long experience with cognac was a

    tremendous help, says Thibault. I had

    already mastered the notion of rigor, the

    notion of precision. The ultimate goal can only

    be attained thanks to the quality of the raw

    material you pick. I strongly believe that the

    quality of Grey Goose relies above all on the

    quality of the wheat.

    The wheat is distilled using a continuous

    process which preserves its quality.

    The resulting spirit is then transported to

    Gensac-La-Pallue in the Cognac region,

    where its combined with artesian spring

    water. The water is naturally filtered through

    limestone making it exceptionally pure and

    ideal forblending.

    Francoise Thibault and his tasting experts

    oversee every step of production including

    personally tasting and approving each batch.

    In terms of quality control, nothing can

    replace the eye, the nose or the tongue,

    hesays.

    Grey Goose has a clear, fresh nose with an

    elegant floral aroma accented by a subtle

    citrus note. Initially soft on the palate, it has a

    gentle sweetness that gradually envelops the

    mouth a smooth and rounded texture with

    a hint of almond. Its fresh and bright, with a

    long satisfying finish.

    Named the worlds best-tasting vodka by

    the Beverage Testing Institute in 1998, Grey

    Goose can be enjoyed straight. But its this

    vodkas talent as a mixer that saw it quickly

    become the USs best-selling premium brand.

    Here are some favourites; youll find more on

    the Grey Goose website.

    60ml Grey Goose vodka

    5ml runny honey

    Dash of Angostura bitters

    Method

    Build ingredients in a rocks glass.

    Stir to dissolve honey.

    Top with cubed ice and stir.

    50ml Grey Goose vodka

    10ml Noilly Prat Dry

    Lemon, for zest

    Method

    Add vodka and vermouth to a cocktail jug filled with ice.

    Stir slowly and deliberately for 30 seconds.

    Strain with a julep strainer into a well-chilled martini glass.

    Cut a long strip of lemon zest; use it to rim the glass.

    Grey Goose Rocks Grey Goose Dry Martini

    In terms of quality control, nothing can replace the eye, the nose or

    the tongue

    700mL Bottle $6999

    spring issue 2014. 31

  • Ainslie Cellars 7 Edgar Street Ainslie 02 6230 6622

    Bowral Hotel 412 Bong Bong Street Bowral 02 4862 2646

    Sydney Cellars Broadway 227 Broadway Road Broadway 02 9660 9996

    Local Liquor Bungendore 1/15 Gilbraltar Street Bungendore 02 6238 1735

    City Supabarn Shop EG24-Ground Floor Canberra Centre Canberra City 02 6257 4055

    Denman Cellars Shop 1-3, 68 Halley St Chisholm 02 6292 5713

    Coffs Harbour Hotel 135 West High Street Coffs Harbour 02 6651 4257

    Pier Hotel Coffs Harbour 365 Harbour Drive Coffs Harbour 02 6652 2110

    Local Liquor Conder (Corks Lanyon) Norman Lindsay Street Conder 02 6284 7000

    Coonamble Cellars 83 Aberford Street Coonamble 02 6822 1756

    Crace Supabarn Tenancy 1, 56 Abena Avenue Crace 02 6162 0913

    Local Liquor Curtin (Statesman Hotel) Cnr Strangways & Theordore Streets Curtin 02 6281 1777

    Local Liquor Dalmeny (IGA) 69 Mort Avenue Dalmeny 02 4476 7805

    Dulwich Hill Cellars 572 Marrickville Road Dulwich Hill 02 9560 2946

    Five Dock Supabarn Five Dock Square, 4-12 Garfield Street Five Dock 02 9370 0100

    Local Liquor Griffith (Shop-Rite) 2 Barker Street Griffith 02 6295 0781

    Islington Cellars 110 Maitland Road Islington 02 4969 4772

    Kaleen Supabarn Shop 13 Kaleen Plaza, Georgina Crescent Kaleen 02 6255 0805

    Station Hotel South Lismore 2 Casino Street Lismore 02 6621 5966

    Local Liquor Lyneham (IGA) Wattle Street Lyneham 02 6249 7263

    Nambucca River Co-Op Macksville 17 Cooper Street Macksville 02 6568 1163

    Argyle Tavern 205 River St Maclean 02 6645 4134

    Bottle Plus Malabar 3/1215 Anzac Parade Malabar 02 9661 4184

    Mosman Cellars 154 Spit Road Mosman 02 9969 4368

    Nambucca Liquor 36 Borwa Street Nambucca 02 6568 6714

    Narooma Plaza Cellars Shop 23, Narooma Plaza, Princess Hwy Narooma 02 4476 3716

    Commodore Hotel North Sydney 206 Blues Point Road North Sydney 02 9922 5098

    Pitt Town Bottleshop 1A Eldon Street Pitt Town 02 4580 9007

    Sutherland Bottleshop Supabarn 571 President Avenue Sutherland 02 9521 6524

    Local Liquor Thirlmere 5/ 83-85 Westbourne Avenue Thirlmere 02 4681 8027

    Ryans Hotel Thirroul 138 Phillip Street Thirroul 02 4267 1086

    C'ellar Vie Turramurra 8 Princes Street Turramurra 02 9449 8550

    Urunga Cellars 16 Bonville Street Urunga 02 6655 6012

    Wanniassa Supabarn Wanniassa Group Centre, Sangster Place Wanniassa 02 6231 6851

    all products can be found at the following participating stores

    Want to receive future issues of SoVino magazine online? Subscribe for free at localliquor.com.au/sovino-subscription

    Store Locations

    contact details

    32 sovino. lovers of fine wines, craft beers and premium spirits.

  • Our famous estate sits on Coonawarras renowned terra rossa soil. Ancient and iron-rich, our soil is exceptional when it comes to growing Cabernet, so much so, that wine critic James Halliday praises Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon as the most important Cabernet in Australia.

    The spiritual home of australian cabernet.

    Australias Most Revered Cabernet

    TWE1219 WYNNS Revered Cabernet 297x210 V1.indd 1 20/08/14 2:08 PM