Spain

WORLD HERITAGE CITY

I N T R O D U C T I O N

Historical highlights 2

CITY ITINERARIESThe magic of stone 4Mansions and monasteries 10 Baroque and Renaissance 13A stroll down and around Calle Zamora 16

SIDE TRIPSTo the Sierra de Béjar vía the Silver Route 18To the Sierra de Francia 21Via the Campo Charro to Ciudad Rodrigo and the Sierra de Gata 25 Along the Banks of the Tormes to the Arribes del Duero 28

Your stay in Salamanca 31Local cuisine & Handicrafts 31Leisure and Entertainment 32 City map of Salamanca 34Useful addresses 36

UNITED KINGDOM

IRELAND

FRANCE

MOROCCO

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SPAIN C T U R E S P A Ñ A

Secretaría de Estado de Comercio, Turismo y PYMEMin i s ter io de Economía y Hac ienda

Text: Jesús de la Cámara.Translation: Michael D.BenedictPhotographs: TURESPAÑAPhotographic ArchiveDesign: Objetivo Directo, S.L.Published by: © TURESPAÑAPrinted by: EGRAF, S.A.D. L.: M. 42075-1998 NIPO: 104-98-023-41st EditionPrinted in Spain.

Madrid

Dublín

London

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Lisbon

Rabat

Ceuta

Melilla

DDSALAMANCA

T he Province of Salamanca (population363,000), situated in the south-westcorner of Castile & León on the borders

with Extremadura and Portugal, covers an areaof 12,336 sq. km (4,763 sq. m.). Lying on

Spain's Northern Plateau (meseta), it forms part of the Duero riversystem where the Palaeozoic soils, poorly suited to cultivation, haveresulted in a landscape of pastures, dotted with trees and bushyundergrowth. Winters tend to be relatively long, with minimumtemperatures averaging around 6ºC (42.8ºF), while the shortishsummers are marked by average highs that never climb above 20ºC-22ºC (68ºF-71ºF). Nights can be cool, something which should beborne in mind by the traveller. Salamanca could never be said to be an exceedingly wet province(annual rainfall: 300-600 mm/11-23 inches), except in the southernmountain ranges which receive over 1,000 mm (39 inches) of rain. Thisdifference favours a great diversity of plant life, with holm oaks on theeroded flat lands, bushes and thicket in the foothills, and sizeableswathes of forest up in the mountains (sierra). Many a writer has evoked the stands of holm- and cork-oak, the thornenclosures, the slate walls and stone markers, a phenomenon that stillendures to this day in the Salamancan countryside (CampoSalmantino). In brief, this is a terrain of pastures, of extensive grazing,where ranching coexists in perfect harmony with the local plants andvegetation. Yet not all is farming and livestock rearing. Industry assumes a highprofile in the provincial capital of Salamanca and in smaller cities suchas Béjar, while the service sector also plays an important role,particularly in education and teaching. The University of Salamancais a centuries-old seat of learning of major importance which even todaycan claim to be one of Europe's most renowned universities.

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Partial view of Salamanca

Historical HighlightsThe origins of this UNESCO World Heritage City hark backto Celtic times. Polybius, writing in the 2nd century B.C.,speaks of the city, referring to it as Helmantik.

The bridge is a witnessto Roman domination,and was constructed inthe time of Trajan as anessential part of the SilverRoute as it forded the RiverTormes. At this point inhistory and again undersubsequent Moorishoccupation, Salamancavanishes as an urban entity.With the advent ofAlfonso VI in 1085, theselands were repopulatedwith Franks, Galicians,mountain peoples(Serranos), Navarrese andthe like. Two centurieslater, the creation of theso-called EstudioSalmantino (literally,Salamanca Study),subsequently convertedinto a university byAlfonso X, was to prove

the decisive event in Salamanca's emergence as auniversally acknowledged city of culture.The reign of the Catholic Monarchs in the 15th centuryheralded a period of splendour which was to give rise tofigures of renown, such as Antonio de Nebrija (author ofthe first vernacular Castilian Spanish Grammar), andarchitectural masterpieces, such as the façade of theUniversity building. Its stones would also see the birth ofSpanish literary characters, namely, El Lazarillo de Tormes, as

Façade of the University

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well as the lovers,Calisto andMelibea (from thework entitled, "La Celestina oTragicomedia deCalixto yMelibea"). Theexistence of 54printing presses,80 bookshops, 15monasteries andconvents, 19hospitals, anumber ofchurches and twocathedralseloquently atteststo the city's importance in the 16th century.The Plaza Mayor (Main Square) traces its origins tosalmantino (i.e., Salamancan) support for the Bourbons inthe 18th-century struggle for succession. It was Philip V, thefirst monarch of this line, who gave the necessary royalassent to the Council's decision to embark on the square'sconstruction.The 19th century was a bleak time for the city. The War ofIndependence (Peninsula War) wrought havoc with itsartistic heritage; the university slid into profound decadence,with the student body never exceeding five score and thevery institution on the brink of collapse. Midway throughthe century, Salamanca started on the road to recovery.Communications improved, the city was linked into therailway grid, and the population started to increase, risingto 25,000 by 1900. It was in this same year that Miguel deUnamuno became Rector of the university, which began toregain its lost vitality and nowadays imparts instruction tosomething like 45,000 students.

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Roman bridge with twin cathedrals in the background

Church of the Holy Trinity

The magic of stone

In these parts the Villamayorstone, rich in iron oxide,easy to work when newlyquarried yet as hard asmarble when dry, will makechurch, university, college orcathedral, shell motif, spire,capital or coat of arms.Should the stonemason sodesire, the stone will becomepure filigree and will seem tohave emerged from asilversmith's anvil, be it inthe form of some mythicalarabesque, intricately entwinedrelief, a frog trapped withina skull or an astronaut inmid space odyssey, floatingthrough a sea of almostunimaginable ornamentation.And when the rays of thesetting sun reflect and refractupon its surfaces, the stoneturns to pure gold, appearsto glow from within andunleashes its full magic.The Main Square (Plaza

Mayor) (1). Undoubtedly thisis one of the most stunningarcaded squares in Spain.Designed by AlbertoChurriguera, it was builtfrom 1729-1755 in theBaroque style. Note themedallions on the pillarsand spandrels, representingpersonalities closely linkedto the city's history (Unamuno,Fray Luis de León, etc.). Theplay of light and shade isenhanced by the effect of theVillamayor stone beingsubtly set off by the grey ofthe granite, particularly onthe façade of the City Hall(Ayuntamiento), the work ofGarcía Quiñones.Leaving by the Plaza delCorrillo, an irregularly shapedsquare, one comes to the12th-century RomanesqueChurch of San Martín (St.Martin's) (2), constructedby the first Christianreconquistadores to arrivein the city (reconquistador;

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CITY ITINERARIES

Plaza Mayor (Main Square)

those who reconquered Spainfrom the Moors). It is builton the traditional groundplanof a nave and two aisles,with pointed barrel vaultingover the nave and groinvaulting over the aisles. Therelief on the Bishop's (Obispo)Door depicts St. Martintearing his cloak (i.e., toshare it with a beggar). If one follows the Rúa Mayor(rúa or calle; street), onecomes to the House of Shells(Casa de las Conchas) (3),one of the best examples of15th-century civic Gothic,with clear traces of ItalianRenaissance influence. Thefaçade is decorated with morethan 300 scallop shells, dueto the fact that its first owner,Rodrigo Árias, was a memberof the Order of Santiago (thescallop shell is traditionallyassociated with St. James,Santiago). Set within theseshells, is a beautiful pairedIsabeline window (this is thecolonette-style window knownin Spanish as ajimez) andtwo exquisite Gothic grilles.The inner patio (courtyard

or quadrangle) is framed bymixtilinear arches, which aresuch a typical feature ofSalamanca that the style hasbeen dubbed salmantino.The building houses theTourist Information Office.Standing opposite is theClerecía (Baroque Churchand Seminary) (4), designedby Juan Gómez de la Moraand begun in 1617. Thechurch forms part of theJesuit College (UniversidadPontificia). Church andseminary were the initiativeof Margaret of Austria, wifeof Philip III, in an attempt tomake reparations to the

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Society of Jesus for the wrongdone to its founder, St.Ignatius Loyola, by hisimprisonment in Salamancaat the hands of theDominicans. The towers,designed by GarcíaQuiñones, somewhat distortthe facade's otherwiseprimitive air. Go down Libreros street toget to one of the city's mostimpressive architectural sights.The University (5): thisGothic-style structure wasbuilt on the orders of PopeLuna in the years 1415-1433.In 1529 the main façade waserected between two buttressesand is the archetype of the stylethat has become known asSalamanca Plateresque (plata,Spanish for silver, denotingthe style's resemblance tosilver filigree). Five distinctvertical lines of decorativestonework rise throughthree horizontal registers.Prominently displayed in thefirst register, immediatelyover the twin doors with theirbasket-handle arch surmounts,is the medallion depictingthe Catholic Monarchs holding a single sceptre, inrepresentation of the unityof Spain. Visible above theirheads are the yoke and arrows,symbols of the monarchy,

and running round the borderis an inscription engraved inGreek that reads: The monarchsfor the university and theuniversity for the monarchs.Ferdinand, Elisabetha. To the right as one looks atthe façade, three skulls willbe seen on the broadestpilaster, and within the left-hand skull is the famous frog,said to represent sin. In thecentre of the second register,above the Order of theGolden Fleece and flankedby the two-headed eagle ofthe Holy Roman Empire andthe crowned eagle of St.John, symbol of the Kingdomof Spain, is the imposing royalescutcheon of the EmperorCharles V. Lastly, on the thirdand uppermost register, thereis the figure of a Pope, possiblyBenedict XIII or Martin V, bothprotectors of the Universityin their time, addressingclerics and prelates. To theright and left of this groupare the heads of Venus andHercules. Note that as theyget higher, the figurative andarabesque reliefs grow in size.Leading off from the universityquadrangle are the lecturerooms. Among these are: thelecture hall that once belonged to Francisco deVitoria, theologian andfounder of international law;

the class whereUnamuno taught; theParaninfo (GreatHall); and the well-known room usedby Fray Luis de Leónand kept just as itwas in his time. Thelibrary and amuseum will be foundon the first floor.At the far end of the

Clerecía (Church and Seminary)

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patio, presided over by itsstatue of Fray Luis de León,stands the building of theMinorite Schools (EscuelasMenores) (6), now home tothe University Museum,with its heraldic portal,Plateresque entrance-waycoat of arms, and mixtilineararches, granite columns and18th-century Baroquebalustrade gracing the innercourtyard. Salamanca Museum (7).This 15th-century palacebears a certain resemblanceto the House of Shells andoriginally belonged toFernando Alvarez Abarca,erstwhile physician to QueenIsabel the Catholic. It housesa fine art collection of paintingsand sculpture, including anoutstanding pietá by Luis deMorales. The graffiti featuringthe word, "VICTOR", arereferences to the academicachievements of illustrious

figures associated with theuniversity.Turning into Calle Calderónde la Barca, one is surprisedby the impressive sight of theNew Cathedral (CatedralNueva) (8). It was built at thebehest of King Ferdinand theCatholic when the OldCathedral became too small.Work on a Late Gothic-styledesign commenced in 1513under the supervision of JuanGil de Hontañón and Juande Álava. Some years later,Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón,son of Juan, continued thework, introducing Renaissancetouches, such as the decorativeaddition of medallions.Towards the end of the 16thcentury, Juan de Ribero tookcharge of the project, envisaginga square-cut east end flankedby two towers, a plan thateventually came to naught.The Lisbon earthquake (1755)caused serious damage. The

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tower had to be reinforcedand Sagarvinaga was chargedwith building a new lantern.The main façade, facing CalleCardenal Plá y Deniel, is anexample of Flamboyant Gothicand contains an amalgam ofdecoration; on the tympanumthere are two different reliefs,a Nativity scene and theAdoration of the Magi, andabove this a third, depictingChrist on the Cross. The RamosDoor, on the Plaza Anaya,is much in the same vein,its richly decorated tympanumand relief of Jesus' entry intoJerusalem ensconced withinan ogee arch. If you enjoyedthe challenge of searching forthe University frog, try to spotan astronaut, the brainchildof the new stonemasonsresponsible for restoring thejambs whose stone haddeteriorated. A treasure trove of art awaitsinside. The main chapel,choirstalls and trascoro (theretrochoir or wall enclosingthe choir) are all by Churriguera(18th-century). Then there isthe Golden (Dorada) Chapeland the Retable of Christ of theBattles, containing theRomanesque carving thataccompanied El Cid in his exile.Move round the church to getto the Old Cathedral (CatedralVieja). Begun in 1150, thebuilding work continued intothe next century, hence explainingthe presence of typicallyRomanesque elementsalongside eminently Gothicfeatures. It is through the NewCathedral that one entersthe Old. The original cruciformgroundplan had a nave andtwo aisles with theircorresponding apses butwhen the New Cathedral was

constructed, one entire sidewas razed. Rising above thetransept crossing is thepopular scallop-tiled CockTower (Torre del Gallo), oneof the city's classic landmarks.It consists of a ribbed umbrellalantern set on a two-tiereddrum, reinforced by fourcircular turrets. ClearlyByzantine in influence, theview one gets from the idyllicPatio Chico (small square) istruly impressive. Note too thepoint of union between the twoCathedrals, the visible transitionfrom Romanesque to Gothic.The altarpiece in the centralabsidal chapel is an ensembleof 53 panels painted byNicholas of Florence in the15th century, narrating thelife of Jesus and Mary. At thevery centre of this gorgeoussymphony of colour is thecity's patron saint, the Virginof the Vega (vega; fertile plainor valley bottom). Gothicmurals line St. Martin's Chapel.The cloister was destroyedduring the Lisbon earthquakeand rebuilt some yearsafterwards. The St. BarbaraChapel was where doctoralstudents spent their pre-examination night: forcandidates who passed, therewere pealing bells, feasting andcelebrations, but for those whofailed, there was only a silentexit by the Carros Door. Seealso the New Chapterhouse(16th-century), nowadays theDiocesan Museum, with worksby Francisco Gallego, Juanof Flanders, etc.En route to the Patio Chico,one passes Salamanca's leadingexample of the Modernistmovement, the House of Lis (9),now a Gallery of Art Nouveau and Art Deco.

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If time permits, this is a goodpoint from which to visit theRoman Bridge (10), erected inthe time of Trajan. Only thefirst 15 arches nearest to thecity are original, the remainderhaving been swept away bythe flood of 1626. Standingon a column is the statue ofthe Verraco Ibérico (Boar) (11),also sometimes knownlocally as the Toro or bull, inallusion to the pre-Roman,reputedly Celtic, inhabitantsof the area. St. James´(Iglesia deSantiago)(12) preserves a12th-century Romanesque-Mudejar style apse. Thischurch enjoyed a certaindegree of importance on thepilgrimage route to Santiagode Compostela thanks to it’sposition by the Silver Routebridge. Close to the OldCathedral and to the right of

the Patio Chico isthe Garden ofCalisto y Melibea(Huerto deCalisto y Melibea)(13) a reference tothe star-crossedlovers of Fernandode Rojas’ world-famous work LaCelestina. Skirtingthe Cathedral,one gets to thePlaza Anaya, thesite of a superbarchitecturalgroup:the Students'Hospice(Hospedería) (14)by Joaquín deChurriguera; theChurch of SanSebastián (St.Sebastian's) (15)by Alberto de

Churriguera (1731), with astatue of the saint set into aniche on the façade; andthe Anaya Palace (16).Founded in 1401 by Diegode Anaya y Maldonado, theoriginal edifice wasSalamanca's oldest universityresidence. The presentneoclassical-style building(almost an exception in thiscity) was designed by Juande Sagarvinaga in 1760.Adding the final touch tothe group is one of theuniversity doorways on RúaMayor, a street which leadsback to the starting point.

Anaya Palace

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Mansions andmonasteriesIf the stones of Salamancacast their spell on theprevious itinerary, they willnot only continue to do sonow but will indeed conjureup knights and saints, nobilityand clergy, sword and cross.By the end of this particulartour, the visitor will inevitablybe forced to conclude that,while it might well befeasible to find as manypalatial buildings andmonasteries elsewhere, to

find an ensemblequite like this, ofsuch beauty andharmony, would beall but impossible. Leaving the PlazaMayor via CalleSan Pablo, onecomes to the SalinaPalace (17), a 16th-century structureattributed to Alonso

de Fonseca. It is one of Salamanca'smost beautiful Renaissancebuildings. The façade, over aloggia frontage formed byfour rounded arcades, isdecorated with medallions,while the inner patiofeatures an ornatelycorbelled gallery. The palaceis the official seat of theProvincial Authority.Emerging from amongst thetrees almost directly oppositeis the Clavero Tower (18).This 15th-century fortress,though begun on a squaregroundplan with rubblewalling, later came to assumeits present-day octagonalshape, with walls of cut anddressed ashlar. Each side iscapped by a round sentryturret, which accentuates itsmedieval flavour. Standing on the same sideof the street as the SalinaPalace is the OrellanaPalace (19), dating from theend of the 16th century. Thedecoration is limited to analternating series oftriangular and rounded gablesover the pedimental windowson the first floor. This rathercold architecture suggestsHerrerian influences.Walking down Calle Jesús,formerly called Calle Ataúd(ataúd; coffin) -the backdrop

Clavero Tower

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St. Stephen’s Monastery

used by Espronceda in hisstory, El estudiante deSalamanca (The Student ofSalamanca)- one comes tothe Abrantes Palace (20)standing on the corner. This15th-century tower wastruncated by order of theCatholic Monarchs, as asign that they would brookno opposition from thenobility. Proceeding downhill, LasDueñas Convent (21) willbe seen on the left. Do notbe taken in by the austerelook of the exterior: go insideand you will be pleasantlysurprised. The convent wasfounded by Juana RodríguezMaldonado in 1419 and wasin fact built on the site of herown mansion, of whichsome Mudejar vestiges stillremain. The building wasdesigned by Juan de Álavaand Rodrigo Gil deHontañón. The two-storeycloister encloses anirregular pentagonalcourtyard. On the lower level,graceful segmental archesare supported by plinthed

columns. Along the upperlevel, the straight lintel restson a series of columns,featuring squat bases andornately worked compositecapitals. It has to be said thatthe sculptural artistry visiblein the detail displays a masteryverging on pure genius. The expressiveness andvigour with which thefigures twist and writheseems to hint atBerruguete's influence. The view from the secondstorey is one of Salamanca'sbest. St. Stephen's Monastery(Convento de SanEsteban)(22) lies across thesmall bridge leading from thePlaza Concilio de Trento.Under the sheltering umbrellaof its triumphal arch, thefaçade is a retable in stone,divided into groups androws, where the soft foliatedlines of Plateresque grotesquemerge and mingle with thepronounced relief of theniches and free-standingstatues of the saints. Centrestage, over the doorway, is

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Ceroni's Martyrdom of St. Stephen (1610), andimmediately above, aCalvary scene. In the lateafternoon, when the sunlightfalls directly on thestonework, the façadeacquires a magnificencedifficult to forget.The church, designed byJuan de Álava in the shapeof a Latin cross, was begunin 1524 and has a singlebroad nave and side chapelsenclosed within its buttresses.Rising over the transeptcrossing is the dome, itssquare lantern set with largewindows, attributed to Juande Ribero Rada. Framed bythe barley-sugar (salomonica)columns of the high altarretable by Churriguera(1691-1693) is ClaudioCoello's painting of theMartyrdom (stoning) of St. Stephen.Outside, the portico leadingto the Reyes cloister datesfrom the mid-16th centuryand is reminiscent of anItalian loggia. The innercourtyard is a beautifulcombination of Gothic andRenaissance. The lowerlevel features rounded archeswith delicate mullions,medallions and stellarvaulting, while on the upperlevel, Gothic elements giveway to arches and decorativemotifs that are whollyRenaissance. Among therooms to see, are the Salónde Profundis, whereColumbus conversed withthe Dominicans on hisvoyage to the West Indies,and the Pantheon of theTheologians. Turning right as one comesout of the church, one spies

Calatrava College (23),founded by the Knights ofthis Order (16th-century)when the university was atits peak. Work on the presentbuilding was begun in 1717by Joaquín de Churriguerain the Baroque Style, but theensuing shift in taste toNeoclassical has vested itwith a certain aloof coldness.A little farther on stands theChurch of Santo TomasCantuariense (24), the firstRomanesque churchdedicated to St. Thomas àBecket, Archbishop ofCanterbury. Once again, a Latin-cross groundplantakes the form of singlenave and three apses.Walking back along CalleRosario one returns to LasDueñas Convent andthence, via the Gran Vía, tothe Plaza Mayor.

Baroque andRenaissance

A marked resurgence ofbeauty: mansion, churchand convent continue toalternate, yet the magicnow stems from the contrastin architectural styles. Thereis a break with the straightline, a departure fromsymmetrical serenity, andinstead the curve convulses,creating spaces of light andshadow.Walk down Calle Prioraway from the Plaza Mayorto the Monterrey Palace,and thence via CalleBordadores to the statue ofUnamuno. The urbanensemble grouped aroundthe great man's figure isextraordinary. There isCorregidor OvalleHouse/Unamuno House-cum-Museum (25), whereMiguel Unamuno livedduring the latter years of his life, andadjoining it, the Casa de lasMuertes (26) (literally,

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Calatrava College

Las Dueñas Convent

House of the Dead), a trulylovely example of 16th-century SalamancaPlateresque. Assumed tohave been the home of thearchitect, Juan de Álava, itsname is linked to locallegend that not onlywhispers of the murder of apriest by the family, but hasit that, when thefoundations were being dugup, headless bodiesappeared, rumoured to bethose of the Manzanobrothers decapitated on theorders of María la Brava.Others are of the opinionthat the name is simply areference to the skulls onthe window consoles. Thebust of Archbishop Alonsode Fonseca is prominentamidst the exquisitelyworked decoration, and justacross the way is theUrsuline Convent (Conventode las Úrsulas) (27) whichhe founded in 1512. ThisLate Gothic-style church,with a lofty polygonal apsethat is more like a towertopped by a balustrade,

houses the tomb of itsfounder. Sculpted by Diegode Siloé in white marble,the Archbishop'ssarcophagus is consideredto be one of the best worksof the Renaissance period.The museum has someinteresting exhibits by artistssuch as Juan de Borgoña.Adjoining the museum isthe Chapel of the TrueCross (Vera Cruz) (28), itsBaroque interior hung withan Immaculate Conceptionattributed to GregorioFernández.A walk along Calle de lasÚrsulas leads to the Campode San Francisco, once partof the monastery foundedby Fadrique, Duke of Alba,in the 13th century. Fromhere, the route continues onto Fonseca College (29)which, along with SanBartolomé, Cuenca andOviedo Colleges, was oneof four University Halls ofResidence and the only oneto have survived intact. It isalso known by the name ofthe Irish College. The bestarchitects of the age,Rodrigo Gil de Hontañón,Juan de Álava and Diego deSiloé, were all involved inthe construction of abuilding commissioned byArchbishop Fonseca in1525. The façade displays anumber of novelties:architectural predominateover decorative elements,and Villamayor stone hasbeen used in combinationwith granite. Inside, thehigh altar retable is byBerruguete. The use ofrounded arches along thelower, and basket-handlearches along the upper

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Monterrey Palace

galleries has given the two-storeyed patio anatmosphere of carefullycrafted harmony. The pillarsare prolonged by torch-holders, enhancing theirslender elegance, while thespandrels are ornamentedwith medallions.Almost fronting onto FonsecaCollege is the Church of theCapuchines (30), the workof García Quiñones and theonly significant remnant ofthe former FranciscanMonastery. From here, onecan catch sight of theenormous dome of theChurch of the ImmaculateConception (la Purísima) (31)(Augustinian Convent)founded by Fonseca andZúñiga. Curving over thecruciform groundplan ofone of the great Baroquechurches is its massive

central dome, whichcollapsed in 1657 and hadto be rebuilt some yearsafterwards. The high altarretable is dominated by Joséde Ribera's sublimepainting of the ImmaculateConception. Opposite standsMonterrey Palace (32),considered by many to bethe Spanish Renaissancepalace par excellence.Designed by Rodrigo Gil deHontañón, work on thisbuilding began in 1539.Whilst the lower section isalmost totally devoid ofornamentation, a line ofwindows with the typicaldecoration of the time issymmetrically set into thelong top-floor gallery.Nowadays, the buildingbelongs to the House ofAlba. Go via Calle Prior toreturn to the Plaza Mayor.

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Pl. SanVicente

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A stroll downand aroundCalle Zamora

Salamanca is art instone and bustlingstreets, businessactivity and theboisterousness ofyouth, dynamism,vitality and thegood-natureddisposition of itstownsfolk.Leave the Plaza Mayorvia Calle Zamora to get tothe Plaza de los Bandos (33).Here a rich architecturalfeast awaits: the Garci-Grande Palace (16th-century), recognisable by itspointed windows; the SolísPalace, escutcheonsemblasoned on the façade,and site of Philip II'sbetrothal to María ofPortugal; and María laBrava's House (15th-century), with its fan-likevoussoir arch and stone-beaded alfiz (rectangularsurround). Abutting onto thesquare are: the 12th-centuryRomanesque Church of San Juan de Barbalos (St. John's), constructed bythe Order of the KnightsHospitallers and home tothe well-knownRomanesque Christ ofThorns, with its four nails;and the 17th-centuryCorpus Christi Conventwith its beautifulPlateresque frontage.Nearby, the House of St.Teresa (34) evokes theSaint's presence in the city.Tradition has it that it washere that she wrote thefamous verses, "Vivo sinvivir en mi".

At the end of Calle Zamorastands St. Mark's Church(San Marcos) (35), aRomanesque buildingdating from the 12th-century, converted into aroyal chapel in the 14thcentury. Judging by its solidfortress-like looks (slitwindows, circular shape)and location close to thegate in the city walls, itmust have played adefensive role. The frescoesinside are 14th-centuryGothic, while the bellcote

16

Torre del Aire

Maria la Brava’s House. Detail of thefaçade.

is Baroque. On emerging,make your way across townto the Torre del Aire (36), a15th-century Gothic tower,whose style thoughmedieval has a definiteItalianate feel. Just a blockor so away is the Church ofthe Holy Spirit (SanctiSpiritus) (37), a Plateresque

gem combining Gothic andRenaissance elementswhich, once inside, willreveal a single navecovered by ribbed vaultingand a high altar retable inthe Baroque style. Fromhere it is a short walk backto the Plaza Mayor.

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HospitalSantísimaTrinidad

Campo deSan Francisco

Parque dela Alamedilla

Pl.del Oeste

Pl. delas Carme itas

Pl. dela Fuente

Pl. de laLibertad

Pl. deSantaEulalia

Pl. delLiceo

Pl. de S. Juan de Sahagún

Pl.Camp llo

Pl. de laConstitución

Pl. SanJusto

Pl. de SanCristóbal

Puertade Zamora

Pl. J. S.El Charro

Plaza deEspaña

Pl.del Ángel

Pl. Gabriely Galán

Pl. delCorrillo

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Visiting times of sights and museums.As opening times tend to changeaccording to the season, visitorswishing to avoid any unnecessaryinconvenience should contact themuseums directly or make enquiriesat the Tourist Office.Note: A combined, reduced-rate

ticket is available for visitorsinterested in seeing: the University,Fonseca College, Minorite Schools(Escuelas Menores) and House of Lis.

- House of Shells:w 923 26 93 17 - Clerecía: w 923 26 46 60- Jesuit College (UniversidadPontificia): w 923 21 59 66- University (listed historic building):w 923 29 44 00 Ext. 1150- Salamanca Museum:w 923 21 22 35- Cathedrals: w 923 21 74 76- History Museum (Episcopal Palace): w 923 21 30 67

- House of Lis (Gallery of ArtNouveau and Art Deco):w 923 21 14 25- Masonic Lodge (in National Historic Archives):w 923 21 28 45- Salina Palace:w 923 29 31 00-Las Dueñas Convent:w 923 21 54 42- Poor Clares Convent:w 923 26 96 23- St. Stephen's Monastery:w 923 21 50 00- Unamuno House-cum-Museum: w 923 29 44 00 Ext. 1196- Ursuline Convent:w 923 21 98 77- Fonseca College:w 923 29 45 70- Church of the ImmaculateConception: w 923 21 27 38- Bullfighting Museum:w 923 23 24 92

From Salamanca, the visitorhas the chance to travel tothe south of the province viaone of the oldest lines ofcommunication in the IberianPeninsula, the so-calledRuta de la Plata (SilverRoute). Used by the differentpeoples that have inhabitedor passed through thePeninsula, the route'sstrategic and economicimportance in times pasthas made it a cultural andtourist itinerary of the firstorder, thanks to therelevance of the waysidecities, towns and villagesthat have sprung up downthe years.Heading south out ofSalamanca, the Silver Routecoincides with the N-630/E-803 national road,the selfsame route anymodern-day traveller would

take to get to Béjar. Aftertwenty kilometres or so, aturn-off to the left leads to atown any sightseer wouldbe well-advised to visit,Alba de Tormes. The townboasts four churches, allbuilt in the 12th century inRomanesque-Mudejar styleand all subsequentlymodified to varying degrees:St. James' (Santiago), St. John's (San Juan), St. Michael's (San Miguel)and St. Dominic's (SantoDomingo). Equallynoteworthy are the Conventof Santa María de las Dueñas(also known as Santa Maríade las Benitas), the Conventof Santa Isabel, St. Leonard's(San Leonardo) and theConvent of the Discalced(i.e., barefoot) Carmelites,founded in 1571 by St. Teresa.The Carmelite Convent is

18

Side TripsSSiidde TTrriipps

Alba de Tormes

TO THE SIERRA DE BÉJAR VIA THE SILVER ROUTE

where Teresa died and whereher saintly relics arepreserved, doubly makingAlba de Tormes a keyCatholic pilgrimage site.The Armoury Tower (Torreónde la Armería) stands as areminder of the old palacebelonging to one of Spain'smost powerful dukedoms,that of the Duke of Alba.After this short detour, thetraveller rejoins the SilverRoute (N-630/E-803) as itcontinues southwards toBéjar (60 kilometres). At thehalfway mark, a roadbranches off to Guijuelo, atown of some interest in thatit has given its name to theofficial Seal of Origin affixedto the cured ham madehereabouts, one of thislocality's most deliciousspecialities.

Sierra de Béjar (Béjar Range)

This district occupies thesouth-eastern fringe ofSalamanca Province, andacts as a natural divide withthe Provinces of Cáceres andAvila. For visitors who arrive

in these parts with ayearning for sport andactivity, no end of outingscan be made. Indeed, inwinter, this can eveninclude a bit of skiing onthe Covatilla pistes in theLa Hoya municipal area.Whatever the choice, therewill be no shortage ofmarvellous scenery andfine examples of well-preserved traditional andmonumental architecture.

Béjar

The main town in the district,long famous for its capes,woollens and blankets, it hasnow become the local industrialand administrative centre.Sights of major importance,a legacy of the city's longhistory, await the visitor.

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SALAMANCA

Alba deTormes

Guijuelo

Béjar

Candelario

630

St. John’s. Alba de Tormes

There is the Palace of theDukes of Béjar, rebuilt in the16th century over the stillvisible remains of a castle.Even today, its entrance hassomething of the fortressabout it. The 13th-centuryChurches of St. Mary Major(Santa María la Mayor), St. John the Baptist (SanJuan Bautista) and the Saviour(Salvador) all displayevidence, some more so thanothers, of modifications andalterations executed in the16th century. The Church ofSt. James (Santiago), knownas "la Antigua" (the Old),was erected in the 17thcentury over an earlierVisigothic church. The city'sOld Quarter with its charmingMain Square forms aharmonious backdrop for aquiet stroll. Those wishingto rest a while should wanderover to La Antigua Parkadjoining the Walls, whichdate from the 11th-13thcenturies and command astupendous panoramic viewof the local mountain scenery.Not all is architecturehowever; there is also theexquisite Italian Renaissance-style garden, El Bosque, withits promenades, ornamentalpalace and pond.

Candelario

Lying so close to Béjar thatno visitor can legitimatelyjustify skipping it, is the townof Candelario, officiallydesignated as being ofartistic-historical interest.Situated on the flanks of therange of the same name,Candelario comes assomewhat of a surprise, withits excellently-preserved

village architecture. This town definitely calls foran unhurried walk throughits streets, not merely becausethey are so steep that theunwary might be left a littlebreathless, but more sobecause of the sheer amountof detail to be discoveredaround every corner. If onehas the luck to coincide witha rainy period or the Springthaw, an agreeable backgroundmurmur issues from the wateras it rushes and gurgles downthe streetside channels.The local religious sight tobe visited is the town's16th-century Parish Churchof Our Lady of theAssumption (Nuestra Señora

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Béjar

Candelario

de la Asunción), boasting acentral absidal chapelroofed with a fine Mudejarcoffered ceiling featuringstrapwork decoration.The marvels of this districtdo not end here For the traveller with the

time and energy there areother places worth seeing,places such as Cantagallo,Montemayor del Río,Puerto de Béjar, Puente delCongosto etc., which willnever fail to come up toexpectations.

21

TO THE SIERRA DE FRANCIALying to the south of theprovince is another districtnot to be missed. To get there fromSalamanca, take the N-620/E-80 in the directionof Ciudad Rodrigo. Afterdriving for approximately 49kilometres, turn left downthe C-525. From hereonwards, close attentionmust be paid to the roadsigns, because after afurther 19 kilometres onehas to branch off to El Cabaco and thence to La Alberca. If travellingfrom Ciudad Rodrigo,head for Béjar along the

C-515 and go as far as ElCabaco (at the 38-km. mark),from which point the SA-204covers the remaining 19kilometres to La Alberca.

La Alberca

This is the district's best-known town and was infact the first of Spain'scountry villages to bedeclared a NationalHistorical Monument.A wander throughthe streets of La

SALAMANCA

Linares de Riofrío

Miranda del Castañar

Béjar

Sequeros

La Alberca

El Cabaco

Peña de Francia1723

Santuario de la Virgende la Peña de Francia

Ciudad Rodrigo

620

Valle de Las Batuecas

Alberca with its quaint,overhanging, half-timberedhouses -their system ofconstruction unchanged forhundreds of years- willhave many visitors shakingtheir heads and thinkingthat they have somehowtravelled back in time,unless of course somedelivery van should rudelywaken them from theirdaydreams.A tour of the town inevitablyleads into the Plaza Mayor,an irregular square ringedby columned arcades,without rival and still verymuch the centre of thetownsfolk's social andfestive life.No Spanish town or villagewould be complete withoutits parish church. The Churchof the Assumption (Asunción),built in the 18th-centuryhouses a 16th-centurypulpit sculpted in granite, asplendid Gothic gilded-copper processional crossand a figure of Cristo delSudor attributed to Juan de Juni.Yet it is not only in thearchitecture that time hasstopped in La Alberca.Despite the inevitablethrongs of onlookers,travellers fortunate enoughto be here in August willhave the chance ofparticipating in fiestaswhose origins are so remoteas to be obscure. On 15th(Diagosto) and 16th(Tornafesta) August, thetown gives itself over to theFeast of the Assumption,with festivities that minglepagan and religioustraditions, and the localwomen resplendent in theirjewel-laden Vistas dress.

Valle de las Batuecas(Batuecas Valley)

From La Alberca, thetraveller should make apoint of visiting theBatuecas Valley, one of thebest areas to enjoy theregion's fauna and flora tothe full.To get there, rejoin the roadused to travel to La Albercaand head up to the Portillode las Batuecas. On theother side of this low pass,one cannot but be impressedby the change in landscapeand the subtle shifts incolour and tone that takeplace in response to thelight at different times of day.Almost at the end of the sheerdescent, a narrow roadbranches off to the right, onlyto peter out at the entranceto the valley on reaching St. Joseph's Shrine (Santuariode San José, also known asthe Santuario de SantoDesierto), the Monastery ofthe Discalced Carmelites, acloistered order not admittingvisitors. What the travellercan do instead is to stretchhis/her legs by going for aquiet ramble along the banksof the river from which thevalley takes its name. Walkersare obviously free to roam asfar as they wish, but shouldnonetheless take care not toget lost along paths that arenot always too well defined.Evidence of prehistoricinhabitants plainly capableof appreciating theirsurroundings is provided bythe many rock paintings inthe area, yet access is oftendifficult. With a little luck, and betterstill, with the aid of a pair

22

of binoculars, golden eagles(Aquila chrysaetos) and blackvultures (Aegypius monachus)can be spotted as they glide,hover and swoop over cragsthat are home to ibex androe deer. Unfortunately, it isnigh impossible to catch sightof the elusive lynx, now aprotected species.

Peña de Francia

Another "must" when in LaAlberca is the 15-kilometreside trip to the peak knownas the Peña de Francia(height: 1,723 m./5653 ft.). Head down the SA-202 asthough bound for El Cabaco,and after roughly sixkilometres, branch left ontothe road leading up to thesummit. At first, the roadwinds through dense forestbut the vegetation graduallythins and disappears as oneclimbs. A warning to drivers:the road narrows,complicating the approachand calling for extremecaution. From the two goodvantage points, the Balcóndel Fraile (friar's balcony),shaped like a small castle,

and the Mirador de SantoDomingo (St. Dominic'sBelvedere) at journey's end,the views in any directionare simply stunning.Additional interest is affordedby the possibility of visitingthe mountain-top Shrine ofthe Virgin of the Peña deFrancia, repository of theholy image. Like Catalonia'sVirgin of Montserrat, thisMadonna is black. The firstchapel was built followingthe discovery of the imagein 1434. Three years later,the Dominicans enlargedthe original chapel by addinga Gothic nave and two aisles, as well as putting upthe monastery and hospice.An imposing tower,decorated with Tuscan-stylepilasters, was erected in1767. The interior of today'scarving of the Virgin (1890)contains the remains of thecenturies-old original.During seasons when thehostel is open, travellers arewelcome to stay there and,in its calming tranquilatmosphere, to quietlyreflect on matters divineand human.

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St. Joseph’s Shrine. Las Batuecas

Miranda del Castañar

Another local sight worthseeing is the villa condal or"county seat" of Mirandadel Castañar (of artistic-historical interest), wheretraditional folk architecturestands cheek-by-jowl with agood number of noblemansions, their emblasonedfaçades amply attesting totheir lineage. The entiretown is walled, thedefences being wellpreserved and breachedonly by some veryinteresting gates. Othersights include the parishchurch, castle, bullring(Plaza de Toros), etc.The Sierra de Francia Rangehas scenic spots anddelightful villages to fill anentire holiday, and more,but a quick list of highlightswould include the following:the Cepeda Valley, Sierra deQuilames, Honfría, Mt. Cervero, Linares deRiofrío, Monleón, Mogarraz,

San Martín del Castañar,Sequeros,etc. Do nothesitate to ask local localvillagers about these andothers...all your questionsand queries will be metwith helpful friendliness.

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San Martín del Castañar

Miranda del Castañar

25

VIA THE CAMPO CHARRO TO CIUDADRODRIGO AND THE SIERRA DE GATA

Other places in theProvince of Salamanca thattravellers with a bit moretime on their hands shouldget to know, are CiudadRodrigo and the Sierra deGata Range. Both aresituated in the south-westcorner of the province,bordering on the Provinceof Cáceres and Portugal.From Salamanca take theN-620/E-80, which runs tothe monumental city ofCiudad Rodrigo throughone of the area's mosttypical stretches of terrain,the Campo Charro. Animmense, slightly undulatingplain tells one that this isindeed Castile, yet thecolouring is somehowdifferent. The meadowshereabouts are not yellowedby waving seas of wheat.Instead they are dotted withholm oaks, those still andsilent witnesses to a distantand better time in the life ofSpain's once vast mainlandforests. These extensivepastures are vital to theanimal that most typifiesSpain, the toro de lidia orfighting bull, for which thisis an earthly paradise. Theworld's most renownedbreeders are based in thisprovince.

Ciudad Rodrigo

No sooner has he/she arrivedwhen the traveller willdiscover that this is a citywith one of the longestrecorded histories in theIberian Peninsula. Perchedatop a rocky rise on the

right bank of the RiverÁgueda, the first Neolithicsettlers found it an ideal placeto live. Subsequently, thenative Celtic tribes (Vettones)fiercely resisted the Romansbut were unable to preventthe city of Miróbriga beingrenamed Augustóbriga inhonour of the EmperorOctavius Caesar Augustus.A relic of this time is thelocal landmark called TresColumnas, three columnswhich join at the top toform a triangle, the exactsignificance of which is notknown. The Moors werecertainly here, yet the visitorwill find little evidence oftheir stay. In 1100, CountRodrigo González Girónpeopled the city and gave ithis name "Civitas Roderici"(Ciudad Rodrigo). In thesecond half of the 12thcentury, King Ferdinand IIof León completed therepopulation of the area, hadthe city walled, reconstructedthe old Roman bridgespanning the River Águedaand restored the bishopric, adevelopment which in turnled to the construction of theCathedral. It was in the 15thand 16th centuries that thecity reached a pinnacle, withits best monumental worksbeing erected, repaired ormodified in some way. Thisfrontier city, constantlyembroiled in wars, was noexception during the War ofIndependence (Peninsula War),when a good proportion ofits Old Quarter was destroyed.The visitor will neverthelessdiscover an invaluable

artistic legacy. The Spanishsaying, no se puede valorarlo que no se conoce (whichcan be loosely translated as,to know is to appreciate), fitslike a glove: Ciudad Rodrigois the great unknown,outshone perhaps by thedazzle of Salamanca.A wander through the citycould do no better than tobegin at the Cathedral. The fact that the buildingwas begun in 1165 and notcompleted until 1550 meansthat a succession of styleswill be visible to the keen-eyed visitor. Outstandingfeatures include the stellarvaulting over the main chapel,most likely the work ofRodrigo Gil de Hontañón,and the magnificentchoirstalls which bear thestamp of the maestro,Rodrigo Alemán, date from1498 and depict singularscenes for a place ofworship. The church'sinterior gives onto itslovely Cloister, startedin the 12th and 13thcenturies and notfinished until 1525.Close by the Cathedralis the Chapel of theMarquess of Cerralbo, asuperb example of classicHerrera-style with a fineinterior. Make a point ofseeing the three unpaintedwalnut retables.From an elevationoverlooking the city, theCastle of Henry IIdominates the Águeda Rivervalley. Ordered to be builtby Henry II in 1372, it isdistinguished by itshandsome crenellated keep.Nowadays the castle servesas a modern Tourist Parador

where travellers can spendthe night in charmingsurroundings and build uptheir depleted reserves withtypical regional dishes, suchas chanfaina (rice withdiced chorizo and meat) or,fried eggs and farinato (awhite sausage meatcontaining breadcrumbs,lard and seasoning).A string of palaces andmansions, almost all hailingfrom the 15th and 16thcenturies, line thesightseer's route. Someretain no more than a regalfaçade, others may onlybe seen from theoutside as they arenot open to thepublic. TheCityHall,

Moctezuma'sPalace, Casa de los

Águilas (House ofthe Eagles), MontarroPalace, Vázquez House andmany more testify to thecity's glorious past. Churcharchitecture is alsorepresented in the form ofSt. Augustine's, St. Peter's,the Church of the DiscalcedFranciscans, etc.If at all possible, a visitshould be rounded off bytaking another walk (withmarvellous vistas) along thecity walls, restored and

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El Bodón

Fuenteguinaldo

El Payo

Si e

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Embalse de Águeda

27

rebuilt innumerable timesover the years sinceFerdinand II had part ofthese fortifications erectedat some time during the12th century. Those with thegood luck to be visitingduring the Carnival fiestacelebrations will be able totake part in the so-calledCarnaval delToro

which, asthe name

implies, stars none otherthan Spain's fierce fightingbull.Leaving Ciudad Rodrigo -inevitably with some regret-the traveller will cross overthe Roman Bridge which,albeit largely reconstructed,is witness to the city's longhistory. Four kilometresaway, on the Águeda Damroad, is the 16th-centuryCaridad (Charity)Monastery, with itsenchanting 18th-centurycloister. As it is privateproperty, permission to goinside must first beobtained.

The Sierra de Gata

To reach the Sierra de Gata,depart from Ciudad Rodrigovia the C-526 and then turnoff to Águeda del Castillo.While driving along thebanks of the Águeda, orcrossing and recrossing its

waters, one getsmagnificent views of theriver, as it cleaves a coursethrough the rugged terrain.The local outcrops in thearea are called Riscos orcrags, the best-known beingMartiago, La Herguijuelaand Robledo, each lyingnear the town of the same

name.A worthwhile idea, onrejoining the C-526, is to go backas far as the SantoCristo ermita(hermitage chapel) on

the outskirts of El Bodónto see the 16th-century

crucifix attributed to theItalian sculptor, LucasMitata. In Fuenteguinaldo, alovely Gothic churchhouses a 16th-centuryretable likewise ascribed toMitata.A short way outside El Payo, set amidstsurroundings of scenicbeauty, is an excellentlypreserved, twin-archedRoman bridge across theÁgueda.From El Payo one can get tothe source of the RiverÁgueda up in the Sierra deJálama Range, the lastsection of the Sierra deGata still in Spanishterritory. This same town isalso the starting point fortrips to points in the Sierrade Gata lying on the farside of the Salamanca-Extremadura watershed, in areas that are noticeablymore abrupt and steeper.

SALAMANCA

620

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On this route, the travellerwill follow the River Tormesfrom Salamanca to itsconfluence with the RiverDuero, in order to get toknow the area called LaRibera (riverside) or Arribesdel Duero (upper course ofthe Duero), located in thenorth-west of the province.Leave Salamanca via theSA-300. After approximately18 kilometres, a short stopcan be made in Almenarade Tormes to see St. Mary'sParish Church (Santa María),built midway through the12th century inRomanesque style. Specialattention should be paid tothe figures adorning thecapitals.Sixteen kilometres furtheron another halt is called for,this time at the historicwalled town of Ledesmawhich, with its ruinedcastle, stands on the banksof the Tormes. Here, anumber of churches justify abrief visit: Santa María laMayor (St. Mary Major),constructed in the 12thcentury, with 15th-century

modifications and additions;the Romanesque-styleParish Church of SantaElena, small yet wellpreserved, featuring finelyadorned capitals andmodillions; and lastly, St. Michael's (San Miguel )and St. Peter's (San Pedro),also Romanesque thoughunfortunately not as wellpreserved. Of the Walls,only the San Nicolás(St. Nicholas) and Puente(Bridge) Gates remain. Littleis left standing of the oldfortress. The bridge wasbuilt on the orders of DonBeltrán de la Cueva in the15th century.Proceeding from Ledesmaalong the SA-302, the RiverTormes will be seen towiden out into a large lake,measuring almost eightkilometres across at somepoints. This is no naturalwonder but rather themanmade expanse of theAlmendra Dam, an idealspot for watersports. Fromthe town of Almendra, onecan make one's way up tothe reservoir wall to enjoy

ALONG THE BANKS OF THE TORMES TOTHE ARRIBES DEL DUERO

Ciudad Rodrigo, Tourist Parador

the impressive panoramastretching away on bothsides.The next destination isVillarino, where La Riberaor Los Arribes can betechnically said to begin. In the town itself, one canget a lovely view of thearea from the balcony of La Faya.After a quick stop, drive onto Pereña, where a goodidea is to climb up to theVirgen del Castillohermitage chapel to see thetypical Ribera scenery, agreenery-covered landscapeof sheer-sided slopes,scarred, carved and hewnby the waters of the RiverDuero. Yet do not be toooverwhelmed by all thisgrandeur: in the village askthe way to the Pozo de losHumos (Well of Smoke), a50-metre/165-foot highwaterfall, over which theRiver Uces plunges beforemerging with the Duero, animpressive sight particularlyafter the rains.Follow the road to Masueco

and thence to Aldeadávilade la Ribera, the centre ofLos Arribes, where thevisitor will find any numberof vantage pointsoverlooking the RiverDuero. Access to many ofthese places is normallyfeasible by car, and so thebest thing to do is to ask theway of a villager, who issure to be ready withhelpful and friendly advice.Names to remember whenasking for directions are ElRostro, Fuente Frasquito,Puerta de Rupurupay, andabove all, Picón del Águilaand Picón de Felipe, thetwo most impressive look-out points. Equallyimpressive is the El Saltohydroelectric plant, one ofthe most important of itskind in Spain.From Aldeadávila, the routeleads on to Mieza, wherethe Balcón de la Code andEl Mirador commandsweeping panoramas of theDuero. Onwards toSaucelle, to see the Castillo(Castle), Puerto de la

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Ciudad Rodrigo

San Felicesde los Gallegos

Lumbrales

La FregenedaHinojosa

del Duero

Saucelle

Mieza

Aldeadávilade la Ribera

Masueco

Pereña Villarino

Almendra

Vitigudino

620

LedesmaAlmenara de

Tormes

SALAMANCA

Molinera, El Salto and manymore places to which thelocals will direct you.Leaving El Salto behind,one can now head forHinojosa del Duero, withits lovely Romanesquehermitage chapel and anumber of other interestingsights. The road continues afar as La Fregeneda, the lastof the Ribera towns, andwith it, the last views of theriver's impressive upperreaches. Making for Lumbrales, thetraveller will find a churchdating from the latter part ofthe 16th century and, in theenvirons, Las Merchanaswhere the remains of a pre-Roman castro (fortifiedsettlement) and a scatteringof dolmens are to be seen.

San Felices de losGallegos

Drive to San Felices de losGallegos to discoveranother monumentalSalamancan town laying

claim to a long and little-known past. Worth seeinghere is the parish church,which retains importantRomanesque vestiges of itsearliest structure. Thechurch tower rises aboveone of two gates that havesurvived from the old townwall. A prominent feature inthe Plaza del Castillo(Castle Square) is the superbkeep. This is a town madefor exploring on foot, itshistory-filled streets flankedby seigneurial housesawaiting discovery.There are now two possiblealternatives: either followthe road to Ciudad Rodrigo(see route III), or go back toLumbrales and then returnto Salamanca via the C-517, passing throughVitigudino to see theChurch of St. Nicholas (onlyfor those with the time andstamina after such a longday's journey).

Los Arribes del Duero (upper course of the River Duero)

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YOUR STAY INSALAMANCA

How to get thereCar: From Madrid (212kilometres), via the A-6 tollmotorway as far asSanchidrian, then branchoff and take the N-501;from Zamora (62 kilometres),via the N-630; from Valladolid (115 kilometres),via the N-620.Coach: Bus and CoachStation. Filiberto Villalobos,71- 85, w 923 23 67 17.Train: Direct services toValladolid, Madrid andPortugal. RENFE (SpanishRail) station. Paseo de laEstación. w 923 12 02 02.Plane: Matacán Airport. w 923 32 96 00.

Where to stayMetropolitan Salamancaand the outlying areas offera wide selection ofaccommodation.There are Tourist Paradors inthe cities of Salamanca andCiudad Rodrigo. A type oflodging currentlyexperiencing a boom is thecountry cottage (casa rural).The Castile & LeónDirectorate General forTourism and the TouristBoard publish an annualguidebook which, amongother things, lists theseestablishments, completewith details of rates andaddresses.Sierra de SalamancaAgritourism Association(Asociación de TurismoRural de la Sierra deSalamanca).Central booking office,w 923 43 75 76.

Useful informationOpening times:Banks: 9 a.m.-2 p.m., withsome branches opening inthe afternoon.Shops: generally open from10/10.30 a.m.- 8/8.30 p.m.,and close for lunch from 2-5 p.m.Pharmacies: opening timesare the same as for shops.For emergencies, there is adaily rota, displayed outsideall pharmacies, indicatingwhich are on night-serviceand/or open at the weekend. Restaurants usually open forlunch from 1:30-4 p.m. andfor dinner from 8:30-11:30p.m.Cashpoints (ATMs): locatedthroughout the city.Foreign currency can beexchanged for pesetas at allbanks and most hotels.Credit cards are accepted bymost shops, hotels andrestaurants.

LOCAL CUISINESalamancan cuisine isdeeply influenced by thegeographical diversity of aprovince that ranges frompasture-lands and wheatfieldsto mountainous uplands. A common feature sharedwith the rest of Castile is theroast, be it sucking pig(cochinillo) or kid (cabrito).Yet the real local staple ispork, appearing in the vastmajority of the region'sdishes, such as: the limónof Ciudad Rodrigo, a coldplatter prepared from meat,chorizo (spicy Spanishsausage), egg and lemon, andeaten during Carnival season;hornazo, a pie, traditionallyassociated with Eastertimebut nowadays the typical dish

available at any timeanywhere, and -depending onthe recipe of the particulardistrict- containing chorizo,ham, bacon, pork, hardboiledegg and sometimes evenpoultry; and farinato, a whitesausage meat made withbreadcrumbs, lard andseasoning (usually eaten withfried eggs). Moors and Jews alike lefttheir mark on the localconfectionery and pastries,good instances being providedby the amarguillos (almondcookies) and mazapanes(marzipan) from the Conventof Santa María de Dueñas,and the buns and biscuits made by the nuns in Albade Tormes, to say nothing ofthe bollo maimón, a kind ofsponge cake. A comprehensive list ofcakes, biscuits, sweetmeatsand the like made in thearea would be too long toprint here. Naming a fewwill however make the taskof spotting them that mucheasier: roscas (doughnut-like rings), quisquillasalmendradas and arrope(grape syrup) from LaAlberca; almendrasgarrapiñadas (candiedalmonds) from Alba de Tormes;obleas (wafers), perrunillas(oval or circular cinnamon-and-lemon flavoured biscuits),repelados, duquesitas,hojaldres (puff pastry) andpaciencias (small biscuits)from Ledesma and Santillán;obispos from Yeltes; andempiñonados and huesillos(fried finger-shaped pastries)from Béjar... and so on.Many good restaurants areto be found en route, wherethe region's varied fare may

be enjoyed to the full. Barsabound, and the custom oftapeo (ordering a mix ofsnack-like servings, knownas tapas) is almost a "must"in and around the PlazaMayor, with the Arco delToro, Calle Clavel and Plazade San Julián, etc., beingother areas where localspecialities are served.

HANDICRAFTSHandicrafts in the Provinceof Salamanca embrace abroad range of materials:silver, used in the localprecious-metal and silverwork(the emblem of Salamancabeing the traditional ball-filigree charro button); leather,used by master craftsmenspecialising in tooledmorocco, and saddle, harnessand shoemakers to producean array of products includingthe famed Spanish-styleriding boot or boto; fabrics,used to weave shawls,handmade lacework andthe renowned Béjar cape;wood, used by joiners, mastercarpenters, woodworkers,carvers and coopers, andeven in basketry andwickerwork; clay, for pottersmaking earthenware andceramics; and a long list ofetceteras. For fuller information,kindly contact the Arts andCrafts Guild (Gremio deArtesanos ), in the Plaza deSexmeros, or the Centre forTraditional Culture (Centrode Cultura Tradicional ) inthe Plaza de Colón.

SPORTSHunting and fishing figureprominently among thesporting activities to beenjoyed in the province. For

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information on areas setaside for these activities andthe relevant permits, kindlycontact the RegionalEnvironmental RegulatoryAuthority - Servicio Territorialde Medio Ambiente yOrdenación Territorial, w 923 29 60 26, or theSpanish Hunting Federation- Federación Española deCaza, w 91 311 14 11 andSpanish Fishing & AnglingFederation - FederaciónEspañola de Pesca, w 91 532 83 52.There is an enormously widerange of possibilities for allmanner of mountaineering,but restrictions on space limitrecommendations to: theBatuecas Valley, ideal forhiking; and the Llano de laCovatilla, a place for skiersand ramblers.Watersports and sailingenthusiasts should head forthe La Almendra Dam.Golfers can either play atthe Zaparicos Golf Course,situated in the town of thesame name, w 923 32 91 00,or get in touch with theSpanish Golf Federation -Federación Española deGolf, w 91 555 26 82. El Matacán aerodrome,w 923 32 96 00, is the localbase for all flying and aerialsports.

FESTIVALS ANDFOLKLOREFebruary: Miranda delCastañar and La Albercacelebrate Las Calendas on2nd February and Las Águedasand the Día de lasMayordomas on the 5th.Carnival festivities, whichhave no fixed yearly date, areheld in Ciudad Rodrigo.

March and April: dependingon the dates on which Easterfalls in these months, HolyWeek celebrations are heldin all the towns and villagesof the province.Salamanca celebrates Lunesde Aguas, commemoratingthe return of the ladies ofeasy virtue, banished fromthe city during Lent byorder of Philip II.June: 12th June is the feastday of St. John of Sahagún,Salamanca's patron saint,a four-day holiday periodof continuous festivitiesand entertainment. The29th marks the Fiestas of St. Peter and St. Paul almosteverywhere throughoutthe province. July and August: 25th Julyin Candelario heralds theFiestas of St. James theApostle (Santiago Apóstol),celebrated with novilladas,bullfights featuring 2 to 3-year old bullocks andnovice fighters, and encierros,the running of the bullsthrough the village streets;La Alberca celebrates the15th and 16th August with LaOfrenda y loa de NuestraSeñora, a traditional mysteryplay in which the devildescends amidst rocketsand smoke.September: pilgrimageouting in traditionalSalamancan charro peasantdress on 8th September tothe Peña de Francia Shrine;from the 8th-21st, fiestas inhonour of the Virgen dela Vega (Virgin of theValley) and St. Matthew in Salamanca.October: Feast of St. Teresa in Alba deTormes on 15th October.

USEFUL ADDRESSES

International Dialling Code: 34TURESPAÑA TOURIST INFORMATION w 901 300 600Castile & León Regional Authority: Department for Industry, Commerceand Tourism (Consejería de Industria, Comercio y Turismo de la Junta de Castilla yLeón). Jesús Rivero Meneses, s/n. (s/n, unnumbered).Valladolid.w 983 41 41 00; Fax 983 41 13 95Salamanca Provincial Tourist Board (Patronato Provincial de Turismo deSalamanca). Plaza de Sexmeros, 2, w 923 28 01 36; Fax 923 28 01 46Salamancan Association of Official Tourist Guides (Asociación de GuíasOficiales de Turismo de Salamanca), w 923 40 73 00University Cultural Activities Department (Servicio de Actividades Culturalesde la Universidad). Plaza de San Benito. w 923 29 44 80

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES:Salamanca: Casa de las Conchas. Rúa Mayor, w 923 26 85 71; Fax923 26 24 92, Plaza Mayor, 14. w 923 21 83 42Alba de Tormes: Lepanto, 4. w 923 30 08 98La Alberca: Plaza Mayor. w 923 41 52 91 (tourist season only)Béjar: Paseo de Cervantes, 6. w 923 40 30 05Ciudad Rodrigo: Plaza de las Amayuelas. 5, w 923 46 05 61Ledesma: Plaza Mayor. w 923 57 00 15 (tourist season only)Miranda del Castañar: Plaza de Toros. w 923 43 23 43 (tourist season only)Peñaranda de Bracamonte: Carlos I. w 923 54 00 01 (tourist season only)Vitigudino: Plaza de la Torre, 4. w 923 52 03 52 (tourist season only)

PARADORS (State-run hotels) Central booking office. Calle Requena 328013 Madrid. w 91 516 66 66; Fax 91 516 66 57Salamanca: Teseo de la Feria, 2, w 923 19 20 82; Fax 923 19 20 87.Ciudad Rodrigo: Plaza del Castillo, 1, w 923 46 01 50; Fax 923 46 04 04.

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS: Information: w 1003;Red Cross (Cruz Roja): w 923 22 22 22; Municipal Police: w 092;Road & Highway information: w 900 12 35 05

SPANISH TOURIST OFFICES ABROAD:Canada.Toronto.TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 2 Bloor Street West 34thfloor.TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2. w 1416/ 961 31 31 Fax: 1416/ 961 19 92Great Britain. London. SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE. 22-23 ManchesterSquare. LONDON W1M 5AP. w 44171/ 486 80 77 Fax: 44171/ 486 80 34Japan.Tokyo.TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg. 4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku.TOKYO-105. w 813/ 34 32 61 41-42 Fax: 813/ 34 32 61 44United States of AmericaLos Angeles.TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211. w 1323/ 658 71 88-658 71 92 Fax:1323/ 658 10 61Chicago.TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN.Water Tower Place, Suite 915 East 845,North Michigan Avenue. CHICAGO, ILL 60-611w 1312/ 642 19 92 - 944 02 16, Fax: 1312/ 642 98 17Miami. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 1221 Brickell Avenue MIAMI, Florida33131. w 1305/ 358 19 92, Fax: 1305/ 358 82 23New York. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN. 666 Fifth Avenue 35th. NEW YORK,N.Y. 10103. w 1212/ 265 88 22, Fax: 1212/ 265 88 64

EMBASSIES IN MADRIDCanada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35. w 91 431 43 00; Fax: 91 431 23 67 Great Britain: Marqués de la Ensenada, 16. w 91 308 52 01;Fax: 91 308 08 82Japan: Serrano, 109. w 91 490 76 00; Fax: 91 590 13 21United States: Serrano, 75. w 91 587 22 00; Fax: 91 587 23 03

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T U R E S P A Ñ ASecretaría de Estado de Comercio, Turismo y PYME

Ministerio de Economía y Hacienda

I