A Copy of Dialogue

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Some of the plants described herein are not quite legal to grow among certain countries.

Check with your nation's laws regarding this before attempting to do anything that could be interpreted as less than legal. Some of these plants are in fact capable of extreme toxicity if ingested or improperly handled. Consult reliable medical experts before incorporating them. There is a vast amount of literature available both online and offline to assist you .

Uni 1998

2 5 p l a n t s Yopo Nicotiana Mimosa Peganum Chacruna hawaiian baby woodrose datura stramonium ayahuasca vine peyote iboga trichocereus morning glory cannabis salvia desmanthus illinoisis the papaver rivea corymbosa brugsmansia calea sceletium kratom Acacia maidenii and longifolia virola phalaris artemisia ludoviciana

Anadenanthera Peregrina (Yopo)

Anadenthera colubrina grows as a tree up to 20 meters in height. It is often found with knotty or thorny bark. Its leaves are of the mimosa type, a little like fern fronds. It has white to pale yellow spherical flowers, which form

clusters and are covered in fine white hairs. The flat, burgandy-brown seeds are formed in pea-like pods, up to 35cm in length and containing anything up to 10 seeds each. It grows in open grassland throughout the Southern Andes. The climate is tropical to subtropical. G r o w i n g f r o m S e e d Fresh seeds germinate very easily, but seeds sold for entheogenic purposes are likely be too old and are unlikely to germinate. It is important to buy only seeds sold as 'viable' if you intend to grow this species. The seeds should be pre-soaked in sterile water for 24 hours. Boil the water and leave to cool to room temperature before

submerging the seeds. The seeds and seedlings are very prone to rot so it is best to germinate in a medium containing no organic matter. Sharp horticultural sand, perlite and vermiculite are all suitable. Ideally, these should be sterilized first too. It is also possible to germinate these seeds between damp tissue paper in zip-lock bags. It has also been suggested to me to germinate by submerging the seeds in fresh water and changing the water frequently until germination has occurred. Regardless of which technique is used, it is important that all water is sterile. The seeds require a minimum temperature of 22°C to germinate, so a heated propagator, or other constant source of heat is essential. If you are using perlite/vermiculite/sand, plant the seeds in pots or seed trays about 1cm below the surface, and water lightly with a watering can or spray with a pump bottle. Make sure the growing medium is moist throughout, but not wet. Leave to stand for a while so any excess water can drain through the holes in the bottom. Then place the pots or trays in the propagator in a bright area away from direct sunlight. It is important that the pots/trays receive daily ventilation to prevent mould forming. You may need to water daily, or every few days, depending on the circumstances. Mould and 'Damping-Off' fungus can be prevented (and cured) by watering with a half or quarter strength solution of Cheshunt Compound (this can be purchased in most garden centres). If you do not have access to Cheshunt Compound, sulphur, powdered chalk, or powdered limestone will help a little.

The seeds should germinate within a week, although this may take longer in some circumstances. Once the seedlings are showing through the soil, gradually acclimatise them to drier conditions, by providing progressively more ventilation. Water sparingly but regularly. Let the growing medium become almost dry between waterings, and stay alert for the appearance of mould, as this will kill seedlings very quickly. At the other extreme, you

should ensure that the conditions are not too hot, as they will quickly wilt and die. I have lost several batches of these seedlings because of hasty removal from the propagator. Because the growing medium has no organic components, you should also start feeding with fertalizer. Begin by occasionally adding fertaliser to the water at 1/4 recommended strength, then 1/2 recommended strength, etc. Once the seedlings are big enough to handle safely, or are becoming overcrowded, they can be potted up individually. P o t t i n g / R e - p o t t i n g For the first year they will grow slowly, and still require a free draining soil, such as 50% cactus compost, 50% perlite. Alternatively, ready-bagged bonsai compost would probably be suitable. In their second year re-pot in fresh compost. This time it can be very rich in organic components, but must still be fairly free draining. Something like 50% peat substitute, 25% coconut coir and 25% perlite, would probably be suitable. They should soon begin to grow more vigorously. A 2cm layer of gravel or broken crocks (terracotta pots) in the base of the pot will provide extra drainage. Also, a 1cm layer of cactus top dressing or fish tank gravel on the surface will help to prevent the perlite from floating to the surface, cut down on excessive evaporation, prevent the soil compacting when watering from above, and it looks nice too. Once they are established they will respond well to regular fertalizer feeds during the Summer months. Once Established They like full, warm sun and a free draining soil. They will not tolerate being waterlogged, and they are likely to withstand only a light frost. These plants will die if subjected to sub-zero temperatures, particularly if wet. Mine seems really happy being left outdoors all Summer, but I bring it indoors through the worst of the Winter months, and I'll continue to do so until it's over 2m tall.

Growing Nicotiana species

Nicotiana Tobacco Nicotiana tabacum - Tobacco (I know, i know - why capitalize the second word of a title or the very name of something...) Background Tobacco has been used and cultivated in America for a very long time, 10,000 years by some history buffs' accounts. High nicotine content varieties of Nicotiana tabacum and Nicotiana rustica were prized by many tribes. Both species are thought to be cultivars. N. rustica (Wild Tobacco) contains about 10 times the nicotine of N. tabacum, and should be considered one of the most important hallucinogenic entheogens,

although both have been used ritually and shamanically by many tribes throughout the Americas. Nicotianas are beautiful plants, growing to between one and two metres in height depending on the variety and growing conditions. They have huge green leaves and very sweet-scented flowers which range in colour from white to purple, through pink and red, for N. tabacum, or yellow (or even white or green) for N. rustica. They are straight forward to grow, and will give you no end of pleasure in the Summer months.

The Basics Nicotianas are very forgiving plants, and although they are native to warm subtropical regions, they will thrive in cooler temperate parts of the world. If seeds are collected from your plants and re-sown, within a few years you can develop hardier varieties more suited to your local climate. They can be sown in Spring, will flower in Summer and can be harvested in early Autumn. For best results they require lots of fertalizer and lots of space for their roots, but I have grown them successfully in 20cm pots. Growing from Seed Nicotiana seeds are produced in abundance and are very fine. They can be sown any time in spring, but will produce considerably more growth if sown

early in the season. Hold off early sowing if it is unseasonally cold, as frost will kill Nicotianas. Mix the seeds with about twice their volume of sand and sprinkle the mixture on the surface of your growing medium. They can be sown in seed trays, pots, or if it is warm enough, directly into soil. Water pots or trays from below by placing the trays/pots in a sink or large container and letting the water seep upwards through the holes in the bottom by capillary action. When most of the surface is moist, remove them from the water and leave to drain. Place them inside a propagator (heated if available). They require a temperature of 21°C to germinate. They also require light, so don't try to germinate them in the airing cupboard. They should germinate within a week. Nicotiana seedlings should be transplanted when very small, within a week after germination. If transplanting is left until later it is very easy for their tap root to become damaged, which will result in very poor and sluggish growth for the lifespan of the plant.

Planting Out Prepare the ground in advance by adding copious quantities of garden compost and, if available, well-rotten horse manure.

Growing in Pots Even though Tobacco plants like a lot of space, they can be grown successfully in pots. Use the largest size pot you can reasonably accommodate, and give them plenty of rich compost. In pots they will require regular watering during the hottest part of the Summer months, sometimes daily. As I said, I have successfully grown Nicotiana tabacum in 20cm pots, they were sown too late in the season (around May), and yet they still produced abundant growth. They reached about 80cm in height and were still flowering well into September.

M i m o s a h o s t i l i s Soak the seeds about an hour in hot (but not boiling) water before you, to prevent mould to occur during the germination process, plant them in perlite, grit or another not-organic soil. After germination (1-6 weeks) however, the plants can be transplanted in an organic soil. Give your young plants a lot of root space, much light and water them regularly. A little artificial feeding from time to time does not hurt either. Mimosa hostilis is a perennial evergreen

shrub that can become, in its adult life, no less than 4 meters high. In the wild the plant grows a lot on the dry desert area in the Northeast of Brazil (the Caatingas). At the firm branches, provided with mean thorns, grow a lot of feather - or fernlike leaves of a beautiful, bright green color. M. hostilis fourishes abundantly with a number of fragrant white 'ears'. The pods that follow are round and fall when ripe dividing themselves in 4 up to 6 sections. A part of the roots of the Mimosa hostilis are growing above the surface, these are fibrous and fragile, and generally have a beautiful pink color. Mimosa tenuiflora is an entheogen known as Jurema, Jurema Preta, Black

Jurema, and Vinho de Jurema. Dried Mexican Mimosa tenuiflora root bark has been recently shown to have a DMT content of about 1%.[3] The stem bark has about 0.03% DMT.[20] The bark is the part of the tree traditionally used in northeastern Brazil in a psychoactive decoction also called Jurema or Yurema. Analogously, the traditional Western Amazonian sacrament Ayahuasca is brewed from indigenous ayahuasca vines. However, to date no ß-carbolines such as harmala alkaloids have been detected in

Mimosa tenuiflora decoctions, yet the root bark is consistently used without added MAOI. This presents challenges to the pharmacological understanding of how DMT from the plant is rendered orally active as an entheogen. It has even been reported in the literature that beverages using Mimosa tenuiflora likely have no true psychoactive effects. In this view, if MAOI is neither present in the plant nor added to the mixture, the enzyme MAO will break apart DMT in the human gut, preventing the active molecule from entering blood and brain.

The isolation of a new compound called "Yuremamine" from Mimosa tenuiflora as reported in 2005 represents a new class of phyto-indoles,[21] which may explain an apparent oral activity of DMT in Jurema. In nature, Mimosa tenuiflora fruits and seeds are disseminated by the wind in a radius of 5–8 m from the mother plant; rain carries them from slopes to lower plains and human activities contribute to their dissemination.

For cultivation, the seed pods are collected once they start to spontaneously open on the tree. The collected pods are laid out in the sun so that the pods open up and release their seeds. The seeds can then be planted in sandy soil with sun exposure. Scarification of the seed via mechanical means or by using sulfuric acid greatly increases the germination rate of the seeds over non-treatment.[23] The seeds can be sown directly into holes in the ground or planted in prepared areas. The seeds can germinate in temperatures ranging from 10–30 °C, but the highest germination rate occurs at around 25 °C (about 96%), even after four years of storage.[23] Germination takes about 2–4 weeks. It is also possible to propagate Mimosa tenuiflora via cuttings.

Trimming adult Mimosa tenuiflorae during the rainy season is not recommended because it can cause them to perish.

Soak the seeds about an hour in hot (but not boiling) water before you, to prevent mould to occur during the germination process, plant them in perlite, grit or another not-organic soil. After germination (1-6 weeks) however, the plants can be transplanted in an organic soil. Give your young plants a lot of root space, much light and water them regularly. A little artificial feeding from time to time does not hurt either. Mimosa hostilis is a perennial evergreen shrub that can become, in its adult life, no less than 4 meters high. In the wild the plant grows a lot on the dry desert area in the Northeast of Brazil (the Caatingas). At the firm branches, provided with mean thorns, grow a lot of feather - or fernlike

leaves of a beautiful, bright green color. M. hostilis fourishes abundantly with a number of fragrant white 'ears'. The pods that follow are round and fall when ripe dividing themselves in 4 up to 6 sections. A part of the roots of the Mimosa hostilis are growing above the surface, these are fibrous and fragile, and generally have a beautiful pink color.

Peganum Harmala Even from the beginning Peganum harmala responds well to some direct sunlight. When young its better to position it so that it gets some direct sun early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Progressively move it to a sunnier position

It doesn’t like soil and ambient humidity even as a seeding. Ambient humidity should be kept very low (never spray). The soil should be able to dry quickly and it should be watered only when dry (even as a seedling). A nice idea for boosting the drainage is using a clay pot since the plant is quite salt resistant.

It’s quite important to choose the right time to get seeds on the ground. Germination rate may be as low as 10%. The only method that worked (10%) was leaving the seeds on the ground and spraying them every second day until the surface is moist. It might be better to apply different conditions ( mainly soil humidity/ watering frequency) to a number of pots at the same time to find out what are the best conditions.

It’s quite hard to sprout the seeds. And once the seeds are sprouted it is very critical to keep them in the right environment in order to survive.

The tricky thing is that the environmental conditions they like differ a lot from most other young plants of different species. In a last chance scenario, consider sowing seeds in a big pot and water sparingly. Give it a lot of sun.

Suggestions: Full sunshine Almost dry soil! High temperatures It requires wet – tropical climate

Psychotria V i r i d i s (Chacruna)

Psychotria Viridis Get Started: Soak the Psychotria viridis seeds for about 15 minutes in a mild bleach solution (2 Tbs bleach in a cup (8 oz) of water). This will help keep them from molding during their long germination period. -- Rinse and soak the seeds in clear water for 12 hrs. -- Plant seeds in potting soil about 1/4 inch deep (8 mm). -- Put the whole pot in a ziplock bag for mini-greenhouse effect. -- Keep the temp around 70-80 degrees F. (22-28 degrees C.) -- Keep out of direct sun. Confidence matched with a patient posture: It can take as little as 6 and as many as 16

weeks for germination.

The plant is notoriously difficult to grow from seed. Cloning is the preferred method of propagation. The secret to the most effective method of cloning P. viridis is knowing which part of the plant to use. The best part of the plant to use for cloning is a single mature leaf.

Hawaiian Baby Woodrose (A r g y e r i a N e r v o s a)

A r g y r e i a n e r vo sa Seed preparation A slight nick should be made away from the germ eye. (Show me: ) Here's the nicking process: Take very sharp scissors and make a shallow snip away from the germ eye, just piercing the seed coat. This is a fast and easy process. After this is complete, it is recommended to soak the seeds in water for approximately 24 hours, or at least overnight. (If nicked properly, the seeds swell dramatically). Planting the seeds Some people place each seed approximately 1 to 2 inches (2 to 4cm) in potting soil with a good drainage system. It is very important during the first stages of

growth to keep the soil moist, though well drained, as saturation must be avoided. It is important to keep the mix well aerated. Soon, leaves will develop. If the leaves receive too much light they will scorch or wilt; this is also seen with lack of watering. Within the first one to two years of growth, this plant grows into a compact bush. After that, some of the leaves will fall off and it will elongate into vines. The vines have been known to grow up to 31 feet (10m) in length. If consistent water availability is not maintained, these vines may die out before reaching that point and new ones will have to start. The vine will dry out to the closest node during this point. It is very well adapted to a dry tropical climate such as areas near rivers and creeks but with a distinct wet and dry season. It is not naturally found in the Wet tropics. A 5-gallon bucket is suitable for starting two healthy plants. The massive root system of this plant can cause the plant to become rootbound within the first year or so. For example, a 5-year-old plant in a 15-gallon pot (after only six months) will begin to show signs of becoming rootbound. It is suggested to use a 55-gallon drum or a feeding trough (commonly used for livestock and horses). The plant can start growing flowers as early as 18 months from seed. For this to occur, there must be sufficient watering and adequate room for the roots to grow; it can take up to five years for the first signs of flowering to become visible. The seeds will be found in the pods of the dried flowers. These cannot be harvested until completely dried. There are 3 to 5 seeds, commonly 4, per woodrose. Please read several accurate sources before growing and use intelligence in secluding.

Native to eastern India, Hawaiian Baby Woodrose has been naturalized and cultivated in Hawaii. This lovely vine is covered with huge heart-shaped leaves as much as a foot across and are backed with silvery-white hairs. Three inch trumpet shaped blooms are rosy-pink with a deep purple throat and are held high on 6 inch stems. Seed pods mature to smooth dark brown and are surrounded by five petal-like sections resembling a wooden rose which are valued

by flower arrangers. Growing to 15 feet or more, it typically enjoys warm temperatures and must be brought indoors in cold weather. Argyreia forms a 1-2 foot bush in the first year from sowing, but grows quickly after the

second year are loaded with lovely blooms that will produce seed. Sensitive to overwatering, keep the top inch or so on the dry side and grow in filtered sunlight. Natural Growing Conditions Hawaiian Baby Woodrose (Argyreia nervosa), not to be confused with the Hawaiian Woodrose (Merremia tuberosa), is a perennial climbing vine, also known as Elephant Creeper and Woolly Morning Glory. Native to the Indian subcontinent and introduced to numerous areas worldwide, including Hawaii, Africa and the Caribbean, it can be invasive, although is often prized for its aesthetic value.

Germination HBWR has a very tough seed coat and nicking aids in germination a lot. This is how I nick them. Take very sharp scissors and make a shallow snip away from the germ eye, just piercing the seed coat. Alternatively you can take a file a file away a bit, again away from the germ eye. Some people recommend pouring boiling water over the freshly nicked seeds, and to let them sit over night, I have found this is not necessary. Plant in free draining soil (HBWR is somewhat susceptible to rot) In any event if the seeds are good germination should occur in less than a week.

Lighting

HBWR does not like a lot of light when it is young. I put my seedlings in direct light every day until they show some signs of wilting, then take them out. This way the seedlings are getting the maximum amount of sunlight they can handle and soon adapt to it and pump out as much growth as possible. Alternatively you can start them off outside in pots in full sun. This way they will adapt to lots of light very quickly, again take them out of the sun when they show signs of wilting.

Water Keep soil moist but not wet. As I mentioned they seem to be somewhat vulnerable to rot when they are young. Still make sure to water regularly. If they remain dry to long they will start to wilt and appear to have gotten too much sun. I have lost many plants thinking they where simply getting too much light when all it was was low moisture.

Once well established HBWR, unlike its close relative Morning Glory, is a very slow grower, and can take up to two years to even reach a foot tall. I feed mine regularly with Peters 20,20,20, which it seems to respond well to. I'm sure any fertilizer will do. Also I recommend worm castings when younger. Whatever you use just make sure to start off with half the recommended strength.

Flowering and seeds

Good luck with that if you don't live in a tropical climate. HBWR gets potbound very easily after its first year or so of growth... you think she's barely growing but it seems to focus her energy on growing roots. As I said I keep mine in a 20 gallon pot and its still potbound until I move it outside for the season.

The Daturas (Datura stramonium, Datura inoxia, Datura metel)

Thornapple

Cultivation-- Thornapple is easily cultivated, growing well in an open, sunny situation. It will flourish in most moderately good soils, but will do best in a rich calcareous soil, or in a good sandy loam, with leaf mould added. Seeds are sown in the open in May, in drills 3 feet apart, barely covered. Sow thinly, as the plants attain a good size and grow freely from seed. Thin out the young plants to a distance of 12 to 15 inches between each plant in the drill. From 10 to 15 lb. of seed to the acre should be allowed. The soil should be kept free from weeds in the early stages, but the plants are so umbrageous and strong that they need little care later. If the summer is hot and dry, give a

mulching of rotted cow-manure.

The plants may also be raised from seeds, sown in a hot-bed in February or March, or in April in boxes in a cool greenhouse, the seedlings, when large enough, being transferred to small pots, in which they are grown with as much light and air as possible till June, when they are planted in the open. Thornapple transplants readily. If grown for leaf crop, the capsules should be picked off as soon as formed, as in a wind the spines tear the leaves. Some seed, for propagation purposes, should always be collected from plants kept specially for the purpose. Though cultivated in this country, on some of the herb farms, such as Long Melford and Brentford, Thornapple was not much grown on a commercial scale before the War, considerable quantities of the dried leaves having always been imported from Germany and Hungary. GENERAL NOTES: Datura is easily cultivated, growing well in virtually any type of soil, but generally prefering slightly acidic and calcareous conditions. Plants grow to a height of 2-4 feet and spread readily, commonly reaching a diameter of 4-6 feet. The author will not say as to when they should specifically be harvested, or what component of the plant is most preferrable. Grow in full sun in moisture retentive but well drained fertile and preferably calcareous soil.

Propagate by seeds sown in situ in spring (16°C / 61°F) or earlier under glass and set out after danger of frost has passed. Temperature: Prefers about 70° F (21° C), but it can survive harsh extremes of either cold or hot. Nevertheless, use caution and use care with this plant.

Light: Sow with just a very thin sprinkle of sand or vermiculite on top of the seeds - experiments have produced results of 15% to 25% germination in the dark and 27% to 100% germination with some exposure to light (not direct sunlight as this will cook the seeds or burn the sprouts of those that germinate - the small plants must be gently introduced to full sunlight).

Humidity: Covering the seed tray with a sheet of glass, or clingFilm will maintain the humidity. Propagating Trays with clear plastic covers are also useful, they usually have air vents so that damping off can be prevented once germination commences.

BANISTERIOPSIS CAAPI and reintroducing Teltrapteris Methystica

Basic things you need: 1> Seed tray or many 3"-5" plastic pots ( 3 seeds max in a pot ) 2> Compost ( general purpose is fine, adding a few handfuls of perlite will improve the drainage and help in preventing damping off fungus ). 3> Heated seed propagator, not essential but if you have one I'd recommend its use. Here's the procedure...

Ok, fill your seed tray or pots with the compost, add perlite if you wish. I find that the use of perlite can improve drainage and therefore in the case of overwatering the soil not become sodden and a home for 'damping off' fungus.

Whether you have a seed propagator or not the compost must be watered. Do this from below by using a tray or saucer or alternatively if you are using a seed propagator you add water into this. Add the water and watch for the surface of the compost, it will go darker and you can feel the moisture....remove excess water from the tray to avoid adding excessive water.

Planting the seeds: Planting the seeds is easy, push seed into the compost about 1/8 in the 'wing' should be pointing out and upwards. If using a seed tray plant in rows leaving several inches gap between plants. The seeds take approx 2 weeks to germinate, if any fungus/mold appears on surface of soil apply a solution of cheshunt compound as the fungus can kill seeds and young seedlings. The use of a propagator keeps the seeds warm and in ideal humidity, keeping the soil moist. If a propagator is unavailable transparent plastic bags can be improvised. Germinated seeds progress rapidly, if in a seed tray transplant these to more appropriate sized pots. Keep away from direct sunlight.

Sow in spring. Place seeds flat on sandy medium and cover with 1/4 inch of soil. Keep

warm until germination. Protect from frost. Potted vines thrive in a shady greenhouse. Trials showed germination at 100% in 45 days at 65 degrees F. (7 seeds, 7 sprouts) There was no support for the herbal legend that the seeds should be buried head down and tail up to improve germination--it works just as well to lay the seeds flat on their sides and cover with 1/4 inch of medium and keep slightly damp and at even temperature. Or, you can put them heads down and tail out of the medium if you wish--that worked, too. Germination, as would be expected in a vine, is hypogeal.

ANOTHER KIND OF CAAPI is prepared from Tetrapteris methistica, a forest vine also belonging to the family Malpighioceae. One group of Maku Indians of the northwesternmost part of the Brazilian Amazon prepares a cold-water drink from the bark. There is no other plant ingredient. The drink is very bitter and has an unusual yellow hue.

This may be the " second kind" of caapi mentioned by several explorers as caapi-pinima, meaning "painted caapi."

Although T. methystica produces effects identical with those of Banisteriopsis caapi, we still know nothing of its chemistry. However, it is closely related to Banisteriopsis and there is every probability that similar or identical alkaloids are present.

There are 90 species of Tetrapteris - vines and small trees found throughout the humid American tropics. In theory should grow identical to Banisteriopsis caapi.

Lophophora Williamsii (Peyote Cacti)

Be aware that peyote is one of the slowest growing cacti. Don't let this put you down, Someone found a way to speed them up a bit.

In nature they will start flowering after about 10 years, in culture about 5 years and in my way 3 years, some even in the second year.

The best time to start with seeds is in the early spring.

Get cactus earth from your local flower shop or nursery, try to work a bit clean, although the whole thing is not very sensitive. Put the earth in clean, preferably plastic pots. Make the earth really soaking wet. leave the pots for one day to let the excess of water drip out.

Now you can put the seeds in. They should be put just under the surface, it is not really necessary that they are covered with earth. Cover the pot with a piece of transparent plastic, which can be fixed under the edge with elastic or tape. It seems strange to grow cacti in such an extremely humid atmosphere, but it is o.k.. Put the pots in a sunny place, like behind a window on the south, it is nice if there is a radiator under the window, or if you want to do it more professional, you can use something that keeps the earth temperature around 22C (something like an electric blanket) Keep the pots covered with the plastic, there is no need to give water for weeks. Within two weeks tiny green balls will appear, the baby peyote's. After 3/4 weeks from the start, you can start making very small holes in the plastic, after a few days make some more and later make them bigger. In this way get adapted to the dryer conditions in this hard, hard world.

Once there are so many holes, that the humidity is the same as in the surrounding you can take away the plastic (this will be about 8-10 weeks after starting). As long a the cacti are so small, they are quit vulnerable, be careful. Once the top layer of the earth gets dry, you can start watering, but never let them have "wet feet".

The first two years, warm earth is good, as long as they grow (Which depends on the climate in which you live). In about the middle of the autumn stop giving water. To get them well through the winter you have to keep them dry, most trouble, i.e. rot is caused by to much water, remember it is a desert plant, it can stay alive , for a unbelievable long time without water, don't worry. In winter, you can let the temperature drop to 4 to 5C.

When the sun gets stronger in spring they can have water again. You might have to even soak the pots for a while, if the first water just runs through the earth, without holding it. These plants like it hot. I keep them in a greenhouse and never open the windows, sometimes temperature rises to even 50 C, I used to keep them in the summer outdoors, in a upside down aquarium, which worked well . When it is so hot do give enough water, keep them wet. be careful with fertilizers, if you give them fresh earth every two/three years, if you want to use fertilizer, use cacti fertilizer from a local shop, use half of the prescribed amount, if the the plant gets to much, it will burst, that won't kill it, but it will take one or two years to overgrow the damage.

After the first year, it is better to put them in separate pots (if anything happens you can treat them individually). A small pot (5 cm) will do fine, it is best to do this in spring, before you start giving water. Press the earth well around the cacti. Keep the earth a bit below the edge of the pot, to make giving water easier. The green part of the plant should be above the surface, to prevent rot. Bigger plants should also be kept in not to big pots, so that they don't stay wet for too long a period.

Another way to grow peyote is by cutting buttons from a plant. Bigger plants

start growing more and more buttons and there is also a kind or a variety, which grows many buttons. Cut off the button with a real sharp knife and leave the button to form a callus on the wound, this might take a week or two. Then put the button on top of the earth, and it will start growing roots easily (here also warm feet will speed up the process).

Peyote can be crafted on different other cacti, Trichocereus will do fine. Crafting will speedup growth. Best is to use young, growing buttons and craft them on a also young, growing cacti. Use a sharp, sterilized knife. The knife can be sterilized with the flame of a lighter. In the cutting of both cacti, you will see a ring, it would be perfect if the rings are the same size, which usually is not the case. The plant transports food and water through this ring, so the rings have to touch each other, so that the top can get what it needs. To make sure, that there will be a connection the top is placed out of center with the base, then there will always be two connection points. When the top is placed, it needs a little pressure, this can be done with elastic or plastic foil, which can be connected on the needles of the base cacti. This can be removed after week.

There are a number of different lophophoria types.

I B O G A

Tabernanthe iboga propagation Light & temperature requirements Tabernanthe iboga is at home in the rainforests of West Africa. Temperatures here are always above 20deg C and frequently above 40 deg C. In fcat, iboga stops growing at about 15 deg C and looses it's leaves at about 10 deg C. The tips start dying back if exposed to 5 deg C. Repeated exposure to 4 deg C will cause severe dieback from which the plant may not recover. A sinlge frost or a couple of nights at 1 or 2 deg C will certainly kill most plants. The rainforest provides a very moist and humid environment. Iboga plant will adapt to dry air, but will shed their leavs first. The new leaves will be smaller and tougher, but will withstand very dry conditions as long as the plant is watered frequently. Hardened iboga plants can be grown under HPS or other artificial lights. Being rainforest plants they prefer light at levels of less than 70%. Iboga ideally likes about 50% until it is a couple of years old and can then tolerate more. having such low

minimum light requirements means that this species can easily be grown along the perimeter of artificial light rigs, where other plants will not be happy. It is also well suited as an indoor pot plant, but should be kept away from windowsills during winter.

Soil, water and nutrient requirements Rainforests produce water by causing condensation of moist air in the lower strata of the forest. This keeps the rainforest floor damp at all times. The constant flushing of condensed water means that nutrients are constantly washed away. Most rainforest plants are well adapted to efficiently capture these nutrients in the upper layers of the forest litter

and soil. When cultivating plant we should try to emulate this soil by using a light mix of leafmould or composted bark shreddings. Rainforest soils have perfect drainage and this can be a problem in commercial potting mixes. To avoid waterlogging it is wise to add at least 1/3rd coarse sand to the mix. Iboga quickly gets rootbound and needs plenty of space. The efficient rootsystem is also very vigorous and needs rooms to spread. Iboga is a heavy feeder and responds quickly to fertilising. Soluble fertilisers are a waste here due to high water requirement. Composted manures are perfect. Natural propagation and germinating seed There was a fair bit of seed available until the end of 1999. Most of this was supplied to retailers by Dan Lieberman (South Africa) who tragically died in a car accident mid 2000. Most seed sold around the world since then has been from old stock. Shaman Australis has now sourced a new supplier and is making seed available on a seasonal basis. Iboga seed is VERY perishable. In poor storage conditions it can loose it's viability within a few weeks. If kept at optimum conditions it will last about 4 months. To store seed properly it needs to be stored in a moist environment at about 10 degC. This prevents the seedcoat from drying out. Very fresh and moist iboga seed germinates easily and without problems. As soon as the coat dries somewhat the seedling will struggle to emerge from the seedcoat and may rot. The seedling can be assisted by keeping the seedcoat very moist and soft, or by using a scalpel to carefully remove sections of seedcoat on a day by day basis. A piece of wet cotton or fabric can be used to keep the seedcoat moist by draping it over the emerging seedling. A high humidity environment (humidity dome or tropical hothouse) is essential. If using a scalpel to help the seed it is important never to injure the cotyledons that are folded into the tiny folds of the seedcoat. Accessing 1mm per day is all that is needed and prevents excessive damage. As you ease the constriction with the scalpel, the seedling will slowly push itself out a little further, thus revealing the next safe place to cut another 1mm. trying to remove the whole seedcoat at once is almost guaranteed to fail. You should aim to remove the seedcoat within about a week of the seedling emerging from the growing medium, as any longer may weaken the seedling beyond recovery. Under normal circumstances the seedling will shed the seedcoat within 2 days and this is the minimum it should be allowed to try without interference.

To germinate the seed you will need to prepare a tray, pot or punnet with coarse sharp sand (please look up the exact preparation, as most other media and plain sand are entirely unsuitable). The punnet, pot or tray has to be perfectly free draining, which can be achieved by placing

plastic shadecloth in the bottom to prevent the sand from escaping. The sand has to be at least 5cm deep. Place the seed in the coarse sharp sand about 10mm deep and water well. Never let the sand dry out, as if the seedling is about to emerge at this time it will dry up and die. Also, if the medium dries, the seedcoat may dry and prolong germination. Keep seed at a minimum 25 deg C air temp. However, to achieve good germination the air temp should be about 30-35 deg C. Lowering the temperature will delay germination and increase likelihood of fungal attack. Germination may occur within a few days, but may take up to several months, so be prepared to keep looking after the seeds throughout their full germination phase. Never expose seedlings to dry air until they have at least 3 sets of leaves. This is also the best age to transplant the first time. Their first new growing medium should be mostly sand (90% coarse sand + 10% good potting mix) and should not contain ANY manure or other strong fertilizer. Osmocote is a good option here, but should be applied at minimal rate. Once the plants get to 5 pairs of leaves they are ready for strong growth and normal fertilizing and should be potted into a mix as described in the section above.

Striking cuttings Iboga cuttings are fairly easy to root. Take a stem section with two nodes. Remove the leaves from the lower node and cut off 2/3rds of each remaining leaf. Now insert the lower end into a tray or pot of coarse sharp sand. Rooting hormone makes no difference in this process. Put the pot or tray in a hothouse or humidity dome and keep moist, humid and very warm. Callus forms after about 10 days and roots emerge after another few days. Pot into a sandy potting mix after 4-6 weeks or when the plant has grown by another node.

Plastic-Bottle-Hothouse A cheap and easy hothouse can be made from a softdrink bottle. This is possibly the most perfect way to establish your cuttings. The bottle used should be at least 500ml. If it is larger than 1l, then the air might be a little too dry for the cutting, but it will still work. Choose a pot with a diameter a little larger than the diameter of your bottle. Fill the pot with coarse sharp sand, and place the single node cutting at least 3 cm into the medium (note: plant shown here is NOT iboga - this method can be applied to may different plants. Growing medium shown is not sand.). Cut the bottom off the CLEAN plastic bottle and push it about 2-3 cm into the medium. The plastic cap can be used to adjust the humidity and temperature inside this min-hothouse. It is advisable to never close the vent completely, but for the first couple of weeks it is best to cover the hole partially to increase humidity. Place only one cutting per unit to avoid overcrowding. Watering can be done through hole, or the bottle removed for maintenance.

Looking after potted plants Most collectors will start their plants in pots as these can be placed into appropriate conditions without disturbing the roots. Iboga likes a lot of

nutrients and will need plenty of root space. Make sure that the soil never dries out as rainforest plants have no protection from excessive transpiration. Plants can also be hardened off to survive in non-humid conditions. To do this without stressing the plant too much, remove all the leaves from the well established plant, leaving only the tiny growing tips. Now place this plant into a dry but shady spot and always water it well. As the new leaves grow they will be much harder and smaller. Fertilize only when it is hot enough for the plant to actively grow. Composted manures are preferable to liquid fertilizers, but both will achieve results. Regular repotting into larger pots allow the addition of manure to the new potting mix.

TRICHOCEREUS PERUVIANUS

& TRICHOCEREUS PACHANOI Seed germination, sowing instructions for Peruvian San Pedro. Trichocereus peruvianus

is easy to grow from seeds. Sow seeds in sandy soil. Do not cover the small seeds, but press gentle into the earth. Keep seeds in constant moisture with temperatures of about 20 degrees C (68 degrees F). San Pedro may be grown as a pot plant in northern areas. It prefers a sandy, well-drained soil. In winter, the dormant period, plants should be watered very carefully. In summer they may be watered often (daily).

SAN PEDRO GROWING EXPLAINED

This section is directed at Trichocereus pachanoi (San Pedro) and Trichocereus peruvianus. The growth parameters for these cactus are the same. They are different than most columnar cacti in that they grow very rapidly, and enjoy a somewhat richer soil mix and more frequent waterings than most cacti. They are quite hardy, and will grow successfully in a wide range of conditions (I have seen very large, vigorous specimens growing unattended in the back of grass covered lawns, planted directly in the lawn soil, watered by the lawn's automatic sprinkler system). However, to achieve maximum growth rates their native environment should be imitated as closely as possible. The native habitat of these cacti is

the western slopes of the Peruvian Andes, where the soil is very rich with humus and minerals, rainfall is not too scarce, and exposure to the sun and wind are at a maximum. I will describe ideal growth conditions (compiled from personal experience, books, and from the advice of someone who grows several dozen of them). However, I should begin by stating that these conditions also produce cacti with low mescaline content. The alkaloids in these cacti apparently are a defense mechanism against invading organisms, and increase during stressful conditions... particularly when the cacti are under-

watered. This is a very gradual response... the mescaline content can take one or more growing seasons to increase after water starvation has commenced. Thus one strategy for raising these cactus is to purchase them at the desired size, and to "starve them out" for a full growing season before harvesting. If this is the strategy, the following "ideal growth conditions" should *NOT* be observed since they will contribute to decreases in potency!

Lighting: This is one of the most important variables. Growth of these cacti occurs mainly during the brightest months of summer. In locations where intense, bright sunny days occur for only a few months, they will not grow rapidly. Growth can be greatly stimulated with high intensity plant growth lights such as used for marijuana cultivation, but year round operation of these 1000 watt bulbs can be very expensive. Also, as the cactus can be quite tall, care

must be taken not to burn the tops of the plants. Ideally, angled lighting from both sides should be observed to allow full illumination along the entire column. When underwatering to increase potency, the cacti should be placed in a less exposed location, with partial shade. If the lighting is too bright for maximum potency increase (but not for maximum growth) the cacti will turn a lighter shade of green. This response occurs after only a few weeks, so adjust the lighting to achieve a darker shade of green.

Soil: The cacti should be planted in very porous soil. A typical cactus potting soil mix is OK, but can be improved by addition of extra pumice. The more porous the soil mix, the more frequently the cacti will have to be watered, and the less danger there will be of root rot and other problems of over-watering. However, the soil mix should also be fairly rich. I take 3 parts high pumice soil mix (much more pumice than in Hyponex cactus potting soil)

and mix in one part forest compost. Additionally, I use a lot of plant fertilizer. Cactus are damaged by high nitrogen contents, so be sure to use a fertilizer with low nitrogen. Check the label... there are three digits (like 10-7-12) and the first is the nitrogen content. Use a plant food with the lowest ratio of this number to the other two. Special cactus fertilizers

are available... I use one called "Cactus Juice" which has a 1-7-6 ratio, plus calcium which is a special factor for cactus. I feed my cactus at the recommended dilution about once a week. Don't begin this treatment immediately after repotting; let the roots set in. When attempting to increase potency, this feeding is not necessary since the cactus will not be receiving water.

Potting: These cacti like to send out far ranging lateral root systems near to the surface, so if potted they should be placed in very wide clay pots. Deep but narrow pots will result in stunted growth. Clay pots are required for proper drainage. Use of large clay pots is in many ways preferable to planting directly in the ground, since the watering, drainage, and

feeding can be controlled more precisely. However, if attempting to increase potency, the cactus can be placed in small, constricted pots since good growth conditions are not desired. In any case, repotting cactus should not be idly done since it shocks the root system and injures the cactus. It is best to choose a suitable pot and stick with it.

Watering: When in full growth, the cactus should be watered quite frequently. The cactus should be watered when the subsurface soil is not damp to the touch. This will depend on

many other factors. At one extreme, for a cactus in very well-drained, high pumice soil, potted in porous clay pots, receiving bright full sunlight all day long, in an exposed, windy, hot location, the cactus can be thoroughly watered every four days. If fed this frequently, the plant food concentration should be halved. One way to test soil dampness is to insert a small, clean redwood stake into the soil. If it comes out with small particles of sand clinging to it, the soil is still moist and should not be watered. During dormant winter months, the cactus should be watered much less frequently, perhaps once a month or so. This will stimulate root growth and result in faster growth during the hot season. As mentioned above, when attempting to increase potency, the cactus should not be watered at all for an entire

growing season, and placed in a less exposed, partially shaded location.

Ipomea violacea (Morning Glories)

Cultivation

Although this species is a perennial, it is usually cultivated as an annual in North America. Morning Glories thrive in strong, well-drained soil in full sun, and need to be kept moist with plenty of water. The seeds have a hard coating that should be nicked, then soaked for two hours in warm water before sowing. If the seeds are nicked and soaked, the vines will generally flower six weeks after sowing. The seeds should be planted a quarter- to a half-inch deep, no less than six inches apart.

Although Morning Glories like a lot of water, if the roots are kept too wet, the vines will produce very few, if any, flowers and therefore will set very little seed. When the seed pods appear, the seeds may be gathered as the pods become brown and dry. Immature seeds are more bitter than ripe ones. It has been reported that immature seeds contain more alkaloids, but this has not been confirmed. There are approximately 850-seeds per ounce of the

Heavenly Blue variety.

The violacea species is also known as tricolor. It is a perennial twining vine, growing from ten to twenty-feet long, with heart-shaped leaves known to grow up to five-inches long. The flowers are funnel-shaped, purplish blue with a white tube. The plant is native in tropical

climates.

Although this species is a perennial it is usually cultivated as an annual in this country. Morning glories thrive in a strong, well-drained soil in a sunny site with plenty of water, but they will do well almost anywhere. The seeds have a hard seedcoat and should be nicked or soaked two hours in warm water before sowing. If the seeds are nicked and soaked, the vines will generally flower 6 weeks after sowing. The seeds should be planted 0.25 to 0.5 inch deep and not less than 6 inches apart. This species tends to run to vine unless the roots are cramped. This may be done by standing the vines in pots and allowing them to become slightly potbound before setting them out. Although morning glories like a lot of water, if the roots are kept damp constantly, the vines will produce few flowers and they will set very little seed. Various methods have been devised to increase the alkaloid content of the seeds by altering the soil chemistry and using hormones.

The Cannabis Plant

Male:

The definition of male and female is for many people difficult to describe, let alone identify. Male plants, of course, have much seed to offer. Female plants, too, can often have seeds but in extremely low levels (ever get a seed in that amazing cluster?). The above plant is a male. The cylinder-like shapes (seeds!) in this great of a quantity - alone -are the key in determining this. CORRECTION PENDING YOU.

Female:

Above: This female has no visible seeds. Even if there were a very, very small number of visible seeds, this would still be considered a female. Both males and females have THC, females substantially more. Let an expert discuss a third sex, the hermaphrodites, with you .

Salvia Divinorum

Salvia Divinorum

How do I grow Salvia Divinorum (Starting with a "cutting")? If you have obtained a "cutting" of Salvia D. you have obtained a part of another full-grown plant. This "cutting" can grow and mature into a healthy Salivia D. plant if

the proper steps are followed. Fill a clean glass cup with spring water (or purified water) roughly two inches deep. (If you have multiple cuttings, use one glass for each cutting). Place the cutting gently into the water. Keep indoors under normal lighting. Each day you should check the water level and add a little to maintain the two inch depth. In about two weeks should see some roots forming.

Once you see several roots and the roots are 1/4-3/4 of an inch long, the cutting can now be placed into pots. Here's how: Obtain a plant container that's about 6 inches wide and fill it with potting soil. Before placing the cutting into the soil you definitely want to water the soil first until all of the soil is completely moist. Use a (clean) pencil and poke a suitable hole in the middle of the soil deep enough to cover the roots and a tiny amount of the stem. Place the cutting into the soil gently and gently pat the soil down (using clean

hands). Keep your plant indoors for another two-three weeks Official Notice: Salvia Divinorum plants initially need a humid environment (once the cutting has been placed into the container). To create this environment obtain a (large enough) container that you can place (upside down) ontop of the plant container. (Don't let this be airtight though - you do want some air in there and it needs to be circulated). It would be ideal if this container is glass or clear plastic so light can get thru. The ideal temperature should range from 60-80 degrees f. The ideal humidity should be about 50 percent. Your plant also needs a bit of fresh water added to environment manually. Obtain a mister and fill it with pure water. Gently mist your new plant on occassion without overdoing it. Error on the side of using less water.

Lighting: Your plant will grow best in light shade with no more than three or four hours of direct morning or afternoon sun. This can be accomplished by placing the container(s) next to a window.

(Note: After owning the plant for 4 weeks you can add plant fertilizer to the mister as well and this is actually quite vital to the plant's success in living. You can use the fertilizer frequently but not every single day). Final Notes: Salvia Divinorum appreciates a lot of "root room" so they should be re-potted to larger pots every few months if they are growing quickly. They do not like any strong direct light. They do not like too much shade either. They will grow quite fast if placed in the ground instead of using containers.

Once your plant reaches three feet in height it must be supported with a (wood) support. If the plant does bend over (gracefully) and reaches soil it should begin to root and eventually grow out of this new location as well. For cuttings choose branches that have about 6 leaves and take off the bottom 3, leaving one big one and a few small ones. S. divinorum SEEDS ARE EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO GROW AND EVEN MORE DIFFICULT TO ACQUIRE FROM RETAIL. THE VALUE OF THIS PLANT IS DIFFICULT TO DESCRIBE APPARENTLY.

Desmanthus illinoisis

Germinate seeds Use regular soil and nothing else other then a lot of sun. Make sure to keep close attention to them when they are in full sun, (don't let them dry up). Keep the soil moist at all times. Give them a soak in boiling hot water before planting. Place in partial or almost full sun. Desmanthus seeds are about 4mm. They are flat, almond-shaped, with a smooth & shiny caramel-colored surface.

Above: Several young Desmanthus Illinoisis sharing one pot Desmanthus illinoensis, Illinois Bundleflower, also called Prairie Mimosa, has double compound leaves giving it a fernlike appearance. The white flowers bloom from mid June to August and produce fruit in a round cluster of 1&1/2 inch twisted, curved, wafer like pods. Illinois Bundleflower normally grows 2 to 3 feet tall but grows up to 5 feet high in rich soil. Its seeds are eaten by wildlife and the foliage has a high protein content and is nutritious for livestock. It is drought-resistant and adapts to a wide array of soil and climate conditions.

Native Desmanthus illinoensis Illinois Bundleflower wildflowers occur naturally in prairies, glades, pastures, and roadsides from Alabama to Texas, north to Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Minnesota, North Dakota, and Colorado. Fabiaceae (Bean Family)

.

The Papaver

The opium poppy plant can be grown in a variety of soils; clay, sandy loam, sandy, and sandy clay, but it responds best to sandy loam soil. This type of soil has good moisture-retentive and nutrient-retentive properties, is easily cultivated, and has a favorable structure for root development. Clay soil types are hard and difficult to pulverize into a good soil texture. The roots of a young poppy plant cannot readily penetrate clay soils, and growth is inhibited. Sandy soil, by contrast, does not retain sufficient water or nutrients for proper growth of the plant. Excessive moisture or extremely arid conditions will adversely affect the poppy plant's

growth and reduce the alkaloid content. Poppy plants can become waterlogged and die after a heavy rainfall in poorly drained soil. Heavy rainfall in the second and third months of growth can leach alkaloids from the plant and spoil the opium harvest. Dull, rainy, or cloudy weather during this critical growth period may reduce both the quantity and the quality of the alkaloid content. Opium poppies were widely grown as an ornamental plant and for seeds in the United States until the possession of this plant was declared illegal in the Opium Poppy Control Act of 1942. New generations of plants from the self-sown seed of these original poppies can still be seen in many old ornamental gardens.

The opium poppy plants form leaves in the first growth stage, called the 'cabbage' or 'lettuce' stage. After a month of growth, when the opium poppy is about a foot high, some of the plants are removed (called 'thinning') to allow the other plants more room to grow. The ideal spacing between plants is believed to be 20 to 40 centimeters, or about eight to twelve plants per square meter, although some researchers in northern Thailand have reported as many as 18 plants per square meter. During the first two months, the opium poppies may be damaged or stunted by nature through the lack of adequate sunshine, excessive rainfall, insects, worms, hail storms, early

frost, or trampling by animals. The third month of growth does not require as much care as the first two months. Three to four months after planting, from late December to early February, the opium poppies are in full bloom.

Mature plants range between 3-5 feet in height. Most opium poppy varieties in Southeast Asia produce three to five mature pods per plant.

PREPARING THE SOIL AND FERTILIZING Holland grows annual crops of between 500-10.000 hectares of Poppies, mostly in Zeeland province and western Brabant. Poppies can be grown after many kinds of crops in ?crop rotation? and can be regarded as universal in that respect. The soil needs to be prepared to yield a very fine sowing bed, as the seed is very small and slow to germinate. Many Poppy patches fail

because of bad soil structure (crumbly clay) as Poppies prefer a fine, loose soil that drains well. It has been general practice to start out with 8-12 grams of Nitrogen fertilizer per square meter, given at the time of sowing, with Potassium and Phosphorus being added to meet soil analysis. Of particular importance are Nitrogen and Phosphorus. A convenient way to fertilize small personal patches as practiced in the Third World which is endorsed by the FAO is the use of human urine, which weds the advantages of biological fertilizer with the rapid assimilation and availability of chemical fertilizer. In this

virtually odorless practice one adult?s urine of one day is diluted with 5-10 volumes of water and used to fertilize one sq meter for the entire growing season. Trivial as it may seem this corresponds to 14gr of Nitrogen, 1.5gr of Potassium and 1gr of Phosphorus plus trace minerals which is sufficient for an entire season, fully biologic and incapable of harming crops if properly applied. The Nitrogen will be fully bio-available in 1-2 weeks. Urine is acidifying and said fertilization spends 1.5 ounce of lime (calcium carbonate) per sq meter from either the soil or through addition to balance pH.

Recently there has been experimentation to split the fertilization in two doses, one given at sowing time and the second at the onset of flowering. This increases yield and the likeliness of a good crop. For the small patch farmer it can be advantageous to continuously fertilize, but over-fertilization harms and in extreme cases kills the plant. SEED AND SOWING The seed is very fine and if fresh it can yield 1.000 seedlings per gram of seed. It is usually treated with TMTD to decontaminate it as fungal diseases are the Poppy's only serious plagues. Old seed often germinates poorly and seed of poor quality ought to be treated in any case to assure a well-planted field.

In theory one kilo of poppyseed is entirely sufficient to yield a million poppies on two hectares of farmland, but in practice this amount is impossible to sow out commercially. Therefore commercial growers usually use 2-3 kilos of poppyseed per hectare (0.2-0.3gr/sq meter) and some even go to 0.5gr/sq meter, but in that case thinning is required to avoid yield reduction due to overcrowding. Often the seed is mixed with an inert material (such as white sand) to bulk up the volume for convenient sowing. A particularly

advantageous mixture is that of one ounce of poppyseed with five ounces of White Clover. White Clover will shield the germinating Poppies from weeds and in fact fixates Nitrogen from the air to enrich the soil.

Poppies are sown when the frost has passed, usually in mid-April but it can even be sowed in early May. The earlier Poppies are sown, the greater the yield will be as optimal sun exposure is preferable. Poppies can take a bit of frost but are fragile to it in the seedling stage. Poppy seed is to be sown very shallowly, if covered at all.

Poppies can be sown in three ways. The most convenient commercial way is to sow it in rows. Per meter there are three rows and the goal is to get ten to twenty healthy plants per row per square meter to end up with the desired 30-60 plants. This is accomplished by sowing more seeds and once they have come up using a 5-inch wide hoe to isolate plants by weeding perpendicular to the rows. Sowing in rows is the standard commercial way of poppy-farming as all stages in the growth cycle from sowing to harvest can be done with common farming machines instead of the far more expensive manual labor. The semi-commercial smaller grower with a substantial patch tends to favor broadcast sowing, where the seed is tossed about widely by hand from a pouch worn around the waist. Broadcast sowing is the technique most often used in the tropical poppyfields.

The third method is highly labor intensive and favored only by private cultivators of very small patches. It basically consists of poking 30-60 shallow holes evenly across a square meter and dropping a few seeds in each hole, sprinkled between the fingers like salt. If you divide a sq meter up into squares of 5x5 or 6x6 inch and sow some seeds in the middle, to leave one plant per square, you have created the ideal growing space for the Commercial Dutch Poppy, the seed of which is the often praised Dutch culinary poppyseed used mostly in baking bread and rolls. Poppies can be grown in pots, indoors or outdoors, as well, it can thrive in throwaway plastic 5oz coffee-cups with a draining hole but best results are obtained from 5-6 inch pots which have the added benefit of measuring out the optimal growing space if put side-by-side in squares.

Ololiuqui Vine (Rivea corymbosa) Not the same species as Morning Glories

Rivea corymbosa is easy to grow from seeds. A tropical perennial vine. It may be grown in a pot outdoors in the summer and brought indoors in winter. Sow seeds in moist and warm (27 degrees C / 80 F) soil.

Seeds of the Rivea corybosa plant are closely related to Morning Glories, it is a very rare but easily grown plant. It flowers abundantly, producing beautiful clusters of white tubular flowers. Ololiuhqui is the Nahuatl name for the seeds of the Rivea corybosa plant and means 'round thing', the seeds are small, oval and brown.

A slender perennial vine, woody at the base, with 4 inch long heart-shaped leaves. The flowers are white, in large clusters, 1.5 inches wide. The fruit is a one-seeded capsule. Native to tropical America.

Cultivation and Propagation: Cultivate much like the morning glory except that it is less hardy and should be started indoors in the North. It will also take more water than the common morning glory and, as it is somewhat woody, it can be cut back and brought indoors to carry it over the winter in the North.

Harvesting: The seeds should be gathered as the pods turn brown and dry.

BRUGMANSIA - THE TRUMPET of ANGELS Not identical to Datura

The Brug-man-sia is like a Datura but it is not the identical thing. It's more like a small tree with giant, down-hanging flowers. It has it's own distinct beauty. FANTASTIC, EASY PLANT. Be PATIENT with them though, to allow time and maturity before blooming, and do NOT put them in heavy or full sun and they like lots of root room, and lots of water. Keep away from children and animals.

Brugmansias are famous for easy container growing, and the ability to successfully winter over in a dormant state, with virtually no care. Conversely, if given light, water, and warmth, they will actively grow and bloom in containers thru the winter months. I sell plants to folks in far northern locations frequently, and give them the following information for success with Angel's Trumpets in pots.

1) Brugmansias like a LOT of root room. The more the better, up to the point where moving a LARGE container becomes too difficult for you. Transplanting ( bumping up ) a 1 gallon plant into a 5 - 7 gallon pot is about right. Angel's Trumpets have a very vigorous root system, and the more soil they have to work with, the better they like it. This point is one reason they perform SO well outside, in the ground. But I have literally hundreds of plants in containers all the time, and many LARGE plants, blooming very well and growing happily. Almost all the pictures you see on this website are taken of brugmansias being container grown.

2) Angel's Trumpets need, want, and use a LOT of water when growing in containers. They are very herbaceous plants ( soft, watery wood ) and thus the water quality matters significantly. So, here is the key : use "seasoned water", or rain water ... do NOT use water straight out of the tap, as chlorine and other additives / chemicals will make your brug unhappy.

3) Blooming in containers is achieved by, and equates to these things : Age, "happiness", and regular watering. Brugs have to be old enough, mature enough, to bloom. In size, this usually means a plant needs to be 4' - 5' tall before it will bloom. You can see that it's trunk will bulk up, and usually be at least about 1" in caliper before it is blooming size. I have brugs in pots that have 3" - 4" caliper trunks at the bottom ! ( And as long as you keep them growing and happy, the trunks will continue to get larger). So, the point is that you need to be patient, and just keep the plant happy and growing well, and then, usually surprising us, it will all of a sudden have little buds appear. And you just keep watering your plant, and

keeping it happy, and watching it grow, and you will see your blooms in due time. Occasionally, a brug will bloom at a small size, in a small container, but that is not the norm. Another key to knowing your Angel's Trumpet is close to blooming size, is the "above the Y" factor ... when a plant branches, off it's main leader trunk ( forms a Y ), then you are getting closer. For the most part, you will not see flowers below the "Y" ... sometimes the reason a plant blooms at a small size, is that it was a cutting taken above the "Y", and this helps it bloom as a small plant. But this is not always the case ... for the most part, you simply have to let a plant get some age / maturity / size before you can expect blooming. Don't get all hung up on getting plants that are "above the Y" cuttings ... just grow your plant big, happy, and with regular care, and you will see the big flower shows we all want. : ) A small plant, even if an "above the Y" grown cutting, will only possibly pop off a bloom or 2 ... brugs must be large and have some maturity before making a big flush of flowers. Another term for this "above the Y" principle is to say that your Angel's Trumpet has begun it's lateral branching, and your first small flower buds are likely to appear soon !

4) Protecting from cold / frost : Frosts WILL damage the foliage and flowers immediately. Killing cold, of say maybe 20 - 25 degrees, can kill your entire container grown plant ... the trunks and root system. SO ... you can leave your plant out as fall comes and winter approaches ... say in 38 degree temps, if you do not expect frost. When frost is in the forecast, bring it in, under cover, etc. When the temps are to be at or below freezing, you can expect damage to the stalks and trunks ... so this brings us to the last "growing in containers" section ...

5) How to handle brugmansias regarding the cold : Basically, you have 2 options ... you can keep the plant growing, or let it go dormant, and wait until spring to let it return to active growth. Brugs are famous for "wintering over easily" in containers ... just keep your plant out of freezing temperatures, and killing cold, and it will almost certainly make it thru to spring. This could be done in a garage, or basement, or in the greenhouse. I have cut fairly big plants back to 12 - 18" tall, put them under a bench in the greenhouse, and forgotten

them completely until spring. Since they are not getting water, and very much light, they will just wait in a mostly dormant state, until they get the light, water, and warmth they want to grow. On the other hand, in the same greenhouse, by leaving the plant intact ( not cutting back ) and continuing to water it, and having it out where it does get more light, it will continue to grow, and even bloom, right through the winter.

Here's a key to blooming for those of you in colder climates : Leave the plant as big as possible during your winter "hold over" period. The "cutting back" is only about physical size issues we often have to save a plant over through the winter. If you can leave the plant as big as possible, you will reach blooming size (time) quicker the next year.

Calea zacatechichi Calea Zacatechichi is actually classified as a weed in the Oaxaca region of Mexico. It is possibly the easiest ethnobotanical to cultivate. Starting from a four inch clone, growers have found it can reach almost a foot in one week. One professional grower considers this plant to be “as bullet proof as they come.”

Preferred Soil

Almost any soil will do, from clay to sand. Calea actually seems to prefer poorly conditioned soils better than straight potting soil. At least a 50/50 mix of potting soil and potting mix should be used. Straight potting mix or even soil directly dug from a backyard will maintain a rooted cutting very well. Too rich of a mixture will show signs similar to over fertilizing and may cause more water retention than necessary.

Water

The soil can become quite dry before a Calea plant shows any signs of wilt. As an experiment, one grower left an oversized calea in an undersized pot on top of a hot car hood in 90 degree weather and direct sun. While the car’s hood was too hot to touch, the Calea plant never wilted. However, extremely long draught conditions could indeed cause leaf wilt, beginning with the lower leaves. Some growers do report Calea deaths from frequent periods of over watering.

Light Conditions

Calea tolerates practically all light conditions from full shade to full sun. A plant exposed to full sun after being acclimated to full shade will hardly show signs of stress. If visible, it will occur in the growth tips, which turn a slight red/purple along the very edge of the leaf. The more sun it receives, the faster and bushier the growth will be.

Nutrients and Fertilizing

Calea is not a fan of lots of fertilizer. Growing in the wild, it is a weed that will grow in places that other vegetation cannot. Even rich potting soils that come with a slight amount of fertilizer contain as much as the plant needs for some time. Properly fertilized Calea with appropriate light will have leaves that are as wide as they are long with larger features, such as a wavy outline. Browning of the lower leaves is not an issue. This is just indicative of nutrients moving from lower leaves to new growth. Even well-fertilized Caleas show these signs.

Sceletium tortuosum

Perennial succulent shrub native to S. Africa, hardy to about 20 degrees F. Rare. Source of the alkaloid mesembrine, which is a seratonin reuptake inhibitor, an herbal antidepressant if you will. Culture is much the same as for Cacti--surface sow on gritty soil. Plants prefer fast-draining soil and full sun, with moisture and fertility in summer and kept dry in winter.

Growing Sceletium SCELETIUM is a small genus of low growing succulent shrubs in the ice plant family (Aizoaceae) endemic to the karroo areas of Western, Eastern and Northern Cape

Provinces in South Africa. The succulent leaves grow in pairs and eventually die away leaving persistent leaf vein skeletons clothing the lower stems, which protect the plants from adverse environmental conditions. The small flowers vary in color from white to yellow and occasionally pale orange or pink.

Most of the Sceletium species are mostly unknown in cultivation and endangered in habitat. Plant gatherers in South Africa have observed that wild populations of Sceletium tortuosum are becoming increasingly scarce, possibly due to over collection. Protection through cultivation is encouraged.

Starting off Sceletium is easily grown, and seeds are sprouted much the same as any common cacti. Mature plants also root easily from cuttings. Sceletium can become weedy if over-watered and overfed. Some species are tolerant of mild frost, but it's best not to bring them outdoors until the last frost has passed.

Growing The soil should be allowed to dry out between watering if growing in a pot. Obviously the size of the pot is a variable where this is concerned but as long as the plant body remains firm looking with no signs of wrinkling, then resist the temptation to over-water. Make this judgment on cooler days; during very hot and sunny periods, most plants will have a tendency to wrinkle especially if they are in a greenhouse. If in doubt, don't water.

Watering Sceletium is something of a balancing act... too little and the plants become stunted... too much and they rot or, at best, they start making new bodies at the wrong time of year (if this happens stop watering until the first body has been consumed by the new). After a year or two you will get to know how the plants behave in your particular situation.

So, water sparingly until shoot and root growth is well established. Then increase watering and apply a well-balanced liquid feed periodically. Good light is essential so that plants produce strong, sturdy growth. Ideally maintain a minimum temperature of 16ºC or 60ºC, although plants will tolerate cooler conditions. Any general purpose compost with some added grit to help drainage is suitable or any of the propriety cactus composts is ideal. An occasional feed as for houseplants is permissible but don't over do it, Sceletium plants require little in the way of nutrients.

Planting out and aftercare

The planting site should be open and sunny and the soil can be enriched with general cactus soil or compost as was used when they were in a pot. Space the Sceletium plants some distance apart because they creep along the ground, much like plants that propagate through rhizomes, and they can take up a lot of ground space in a short amount of time when cared for properly.

Overwintering After the first frosts lift the rhizomes and move them to a frost-free glasshouse or shed. Ensure plants are properly labeled. Pack the roots in pots, covered with compost or bark, and keep them just moist throughout the winter.

When you receive seedlings Take great care with unwrapping - new shoots at this stage are extremely fragile, and a shoot broken off represents a lost flowering shoot. Sceletium has a lot of water content, and in travelling, they can become dehydrated and less pliable.

The seedlings should be immediately potted up, irrespective of the time of year. Use any general purpose cactus soil, and place the pots in a light airy frost-free place. A cool greenhouse with heat only when frost threatens is ideal. Keep the compost slightly moist (not dry, not over-wet), until the growing season starts.

If immediate potting is impractical, the seedlings should be covered in damp peat. Sceletium seedlings do not normally enter a totally dormant stage, and if they are thoroughly dried out, then some will be lost. (This is perhaps one reason why Kannas are not often sold in garden centers - they do not appreciate being kept for long periods in a handful of dry sawdust in pre-packs - many are lost leading to complaints).

If the Sceletium plants are intended for indoor cultivation, then they may be potted up immediately and grown on under heat.

As with many rhizomatous plants, not every seedling will grow (Sceletium growers are happy with an 80% success rate), although some will throw up 2 or 3 shoots.

Pests and diseases In the spring, newly emerging shoots should be sprayed for aphids, though aphids are not often a problem with grown plants.

Young plants should be protected from slugs and snails which ignore the open leaves but

have a preference for the newly unrolling leaves. A single nibble at this stage by a slug will cause a disfiguring row of holes as the leaf unfurls that will remain with the plant for several months. Older plants are not often troubled by slugs and snails.

The Red Spider Mite can occasionally infest indoor Sceletium plants. The symptoms are dry-looking leaves which turn uniformly brown. When examined closely on the underside, such leaves show traces of a white powder (which is the dried egg-cases) particularly near the central leaf rib, and myriads of extremely tiny creatures all running around. You really need a magnifying glass to see them. To answer a common query, Red Spider Mites are not often red in color. Red Spider Mite is immune to most if not all proprietary preparations available to the amateur. Soap-based insecticides combined with a powerful spray can dislodge and/or suffocate them, and minimize the problem to an acceptable level.

Mitragyna speciosa (Kratom)

Kratom prefers warm tropical swamp like conditions. This makes growing Kratom outdoors out of the question in most regions of the world. Green houses also are notorious for they're failure in sustaining Kratom trees. Kratom trees seem to have a high rate of failure for a number of reasons, but for many, they're interest alone is the reason for attempting cultivation. Kratom prefers humus rich, fertile, wet soils in a protected position, and is drought and frost tender. Seedlings need to be very well protected from sun and wind, but the maturing plant is quite hardy. The Kratom plant is a heavy feeder.

SEEDS: Only VERY fresh Kratom seeds will work, and even venders with the best of intentions, even those who sell enough seeds to always have a fresh stock, may not be able to get them to you fast enough. Another thing to keep in mind is that the seeds are TINY little slivers, and that you need A LOT of them, to even get a single plant.

We would recommend an online shop to buy the seeds from, but honestly, none have consistently given me a consistent or reliable pattern of germination success, so try anyone who has them and simply do your best, and then hope for the best.

SOIL: You need humus rich, fertile, wet soil that drains well, but not so much that the soil will not remain damp virtually all the time. One of my earliest discoveries, is that no matter how much water I gave my little seedlings, they always wanted more. And actually, when one of my pots got clogged at the bottom, I left it as an experiment, just to see what would happen. What happened is that the one that had poor drainage grew faster than all the others...progress!

I expanded this "testing" and found that if I completely stopped the soil from draining, it worked great for a while, but then all kinds of strange fungus and bugs appeared at the top of the soil. I couldn't find a way to fix this; I tried fungicide and pesticide, but it eventually just ended up killing the poor little guy. Maybe a heartier plant could stand more harsh chemicals, but, for me, the hardest part is just to get this plant past the seedling stage.

So for me, the #1 Rule for soil is this: Initially, try to keep the soil continually moist, but not flooded while trying to germinate your seeds. Allow drainage, but pretend that your pot is a swamp, while watching carefully for fungus. Some fungus is O.K., but too much will kill everything except itself.

WEATHER: The seeds, while in germination stage, do not need full sunlight. In fact, from the research I have done, it seems that direct sunlight is BAD for germinating the seeds. I would love to get more verification of this, and if anyone knows the answer, please write me to tell me.

O.K., so once you are lucky enough to get some sprouts...the the real work is finished! - First, seedlings need to be protected from the COLD. Assume that anything under 60 degrees Fahrenheit or 15 degrees Celsius will kill your plants within a couple of days, so if they're outside, watch the weather closely. The great thing is, is that once you manage to get your plants past the seedling stage, Kratom is quite sturdy, quite hardy, and can take more abuse than you might imagine.

FEEDING: The Kratom plant is a heavy feeder in more ways than one. Really, it's a tiny tree that hopes to grow up into a 100 foot tall giant, so just like the big-pawed puppy, it will soak up more water and plant food than you might expect or imagine. Plant food that's rich in nitrogen will be your best best, especially if you keep the soil quite wet.

Once you've made it past the seedling stage (congratulations!), you can breathe far more easily, knowing that you've made it past the most difficult hurdle; getting a Kratom plant to grow in the first place! - Keep the soil moist, keep the plant arm, never worry about overwatering, and then follow the standard rules for growing plants, and for diagnosing plant problems, and do your best to fix them the moment they occur.

BEST WAY TO START: In my opinion, the best way to get started is to find a rooted clone that can be purchased from the only place I would ever buy plants from; Theatrum Botanicum (also known as "The Green Stranger". They can be VERY slow in shipping, and they often leave you wondering if you'll ever get your plants, but they eventually will. Click the Kratom plant link, and it will take you to a page where you need to scroll down until you find "Mitragyna speciosa Mitragyna speciosa Kratom Tree - Rifat Strain) $50.00" at the time of this writing.

Acacia maidenii & longifolia

Acacia maidenii does well in all types of soil, except those that are waterlogged for lengthy periods of time.[9] The tree's seeds number about 65 seeds/g.[4] Acacia maidenii can be propagated from seed, but, in order to increase the germination rate, the seed should be treated first. It can be soaked in hot water or the seed can be nicked or otherwise mechanically scarified, so that water will penetrate the seed's hard coating and induce germination. Description: Small, spreading tree to 10 m with narrow, lanceolate phyllodes to 16 cm. Cream rod-like flowers occur in summer. Propagation: From scarified seed or boiling water treatment.

Cultivation: A hardy plant in most wellwatered situations. Some shade accepted. Special horticultural attributes:

Frost hardy (will tolerate frosts to -7 C ) Suitable for planting in tropical areas.

V I R O L A T H E I O D O R A

Botanical Aspects

Virola Theiodora belongs to the Myristicaceae Family and the Myristica Genus, the same genus that Nutmeg is categorized in. Virola Theiodora is widely distributed throughout the tropical regions of the Amazon ( Brazil, Peru, Venezuela and Colombia). Virola species are tall trees (30 meters in height) that have glossy oval leaves (30 cm in length) with a characteristic odour and round oval fruits. The numerous Virola species are very difficult to distinguish. Information concerning the propagation of the Virola species is very scarce. Virola is in the same genus as the Nutmeg tree, as stated earlier. To date, no one has publicly reported a success in cultivating a Virola tree, however it makes sense to try to grow out the seeds just like you would a Nutmeg tree. Good luck if you attempt to grow Virola, let alone acquire viable seeds without a lot of guesswork. Plant Cultivation As stated above, we don't have any evidence of someone successfully cultivating a Virola yet, so we're guessing you can grow Virola similar to Nutmeg. Here's how: It should prefer the rich volcanic soils and the hot, humid conditions of the tropics. Nutmegs are propagated by seeds in nursery beds and after about six months they are transplanted to the plantation. It takes five years for the trees to flower, so that the sex can be determined and the males can be thinned out, leaving the optimum situation of one male for every ten females. Full bearing occurs after 15 years and the trees continue to bear fruit for about fifty years. The nutmeg tree thrives in a hot, moist climate, in a well-drained soil with partial shade. It may be grown outdoors in southern Florida. Elsewhere it should be planted in a

greenhouse with relatively high humidity. It requires a moist soil, but should not be kept wet, as the roots will rot. To obtain nutmegs both sexes should be planted. One male is sufficient to pollinate ten to twelve females. When grown from seed, they should be planted singly in pots, and transplanted when 8 to 10 inches high.

PHALARIS AQUATICUS &

PHALARIS ARUNDINACEA

Phalaris arundinacea (Red canary grass): This perennial is a native of Canada, but occurs in northern Europe and the northern half of the US. In the wild, it is usually found where there is purple loosestrife. It can grow over 6 feet tall and tends to form clumps. Fond of wetlands, it has been used in areas set up to filter sewage, but it also enjoys uplands and can survive drought. It grows best on moist, sandy soil and dislikes heat (won't prosper in the Deep South). An aggressive plant, some consider it a weed, others an excellent forage crop. It reproduces through its rhizomes or through its copious seeds. The plant has recently been discovered to have high concentrations of DMT, beta-carbolines, 5-MEO-demethyltryptamine, and trace amounts of bufotenine.

Phalaris aquatica (P. tuberosa; Harding grass): A perennial grass that tends to grow along rivers and creek banks. Like P. arundinacea, this phalaris grows from rhizomes (looks like a

thick root found near the surface of the soil) and can form thick tussocks. It was introduced to the US from Australia as a forage plant for sheep and has become naturalized in California. Keeping the plant cut will increase its spread horizontally. This plant also contains high concentrations of DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, bufotenine (in fresh but not dried plants), and beta-carbolines. Alkaloid content is increased when the plant is stressed, especially if it wilts (without dying), but as with all the phalaris, alkaloid content can vary not only from season to season but from plant to plant. WARNING: This strain is the one responsible for causing "Sheep Staggers" in grazing sheep. On the other hand, there hasn't been a single death or case of "Sheep Staggers" associated with Phalaris arundinacea. Please read the related article below.

Growing Phalaris arundinacea: Just barely cover seeds or merely press into moist soil. Keep moist and at 41F/5C, if possible—the cooler, the better. It naturally germinates in early spring. Like all wild grasses, the germination of this seed is irregular; not all the seed will germinate at once, as happens with cultivated plants. Transplant to sandy soil and full sun. Once it is established, it grows from creeping rhizomes, which begin developing after a

month of growth. It often grows in low-lying and marshy meadows and pastures that flood, but it is moderately drought resistant. It does well in fertile soils and humid areas, but it does not like subtropical or tropical climates.

Growing Phalaris aquatica: Barely cover seeds (or simply press into moist soil) and keep at 70F for germination in 7-14 days. Grow on in cooler temperatures, preferably 60F, and full sun. This seed germinates over a wide period in order to have more survivors, so not all seed germinates at once.

Artemisia ludoviciana

A different Wormwood - The other white ceremonial sage Introducing the concept of the sweat lodge

Common names: White Sagebrush, Western Mugwort and Mountian wormwood.

Description Artemisia ludoviciana, White Sagebrush is a rhizomatous perennial native from Baja to Ontario Canada and down to Arkansas. I've only seen it once in the wild and that was at 5500 feet in the San Jacinto mountains. This White Sagebrush was growing under Quercus dumosa(berberidifolia), Pinus jeffreyi, Cercocarpus betuloides and Adenostoma fasciculatum. We have our mother plant growing in decomposed granite soil in the shade' of a Chilopsis. We never water it and it has managed in 2 years to grow 1 foot. This subspecies seems very drought tolerant, and grows in dry, light soils. A very wide-ranging species adapted to many temperature ranges and rainfall patterns. Artemisia ludoviciana is grown in the Savill garden in Windsor Park, England.

Characteristics Artemisia ludoviciana White Sagebrush tolerates alkaline soil, sand, clay, seasonal flooding, high traffic(people walking on it) and deer. Artemisia ludoviciana White Sagebrush's foliage type is stressdeciduous.

Artemisia ludoviciana White Sagebrush's flower color is yellow.

Communities Communities for Artemisia ludoviciana White Sagebrush:Chaparral, Pinyon-Juniper Woodland and Yellow Pine Forest.

Ranges for Artemisia ludoviciana ph: 5.00 to 8.00

usda: 5 to 10 height[m]: 0.20 to 0.50 width[m]: 0.50 to 1.00

rainfall[cm]: 30.00 to 100.00

Artemisia ludoviciana

Common name: White sage Family: Compositae Author: Nutt. Botanical references: 43, 200 Synonyms:

Known Hazards: There is a report that the plant can cause allergies in some people[222].

Range: Western N. America - Michigan to Washington, south to Texas and Mexico.

Habitat: Prairies, dry open soils and thin woodland[43]. Plants For A Future Rating (1-5):

2

Other Possible From various places across the web, may not be correct. See below.

Synonyms: A. albula[H] A. canescens[H]

Other Common Names:

From various places around the Web, may not be correct. Estafiate [S], Louisiana Sagewort [P], Western Mugwort [H,L], White Sage [L], White Sagebrush [B],

Other Range Info: Mexico(Kickapoo); Us(Flathead)

Physical Characteristics Perennial growing to 1m by 1m . It is hardy to zone 5. It is in flower from August to October, and the seeds ripen from September to October. The flowers are hermaphrodite (have both male and female organs) and are pollinated by Wind. We rate it 2 out of 5 for usefulness.

The plant prefers light (sandy) and medium (loamy) soils and requires well-drained soil. The plant prefers neutral and basic (alkaline) soils. It can grow in semi-shade (light woodland) or no shade. It requires dry or moist soil and can tolerate drought.

Habitats and Possible Locations Cultivated Beds, Ground Cover.

Edible Uses Condiment; Seed; Tea.

Leaves and flowering heads are used as a flavouring or garnish for sauces, gravies etc. A herb tea is made from the leaves and flowering heads. Seed. No further details are given but the seed is very small and fiddly to use.

Medicinal Uses Astringent; Poultice; Skin.

The leaves are astringent. They were commonly used by the N. American Indians to induce sweating, curb pain and diarrhoea A weak tea was used in the treatment of stomach ache and menstrual disorders.

Externally, a wash of the leaves was applied to itching, rashes, swellings, boils, sores, etc. The wash was also applied to eczema and as an underarm deodorant. A poultice of the leaves can be applied to spider bites, blisters and burst boils A snuff of the crushed leaves has been used to treat headaches, the sinuses and nosebleeds.

Other Uses Deodorant; Ground cover; Repellent.

The plant makes a useful ground cover plant once it is established. The leaves can be placed in the shoes as a foot deodorant. An infusion of the leaves has been

used as an underarm deodorant. The soft leaves can be used as a toilet paper. The plant can be burnt to repel mosquitoes.

Cultivation details Easily grown in a well-drained circumneutral or slightly alkaline loamy soil, preferring a sunny position[1, 200]. Does well in a sandy soil. Established plants are very drought tolerant. Plants are longer lived, more hardy and more aromatic when they are grown in a poor dry soil. A very polymorphic species.

Slugs love the young shoots of this plant and have been known to destroy even well-established plants. A very ornamental plant, spreading by stolons to form loose patches, it can be invasive. There are many named forms selected for their ornamental value. Members of this genus are rarely if ever troubled by browsing deer.

Propagation Seed - surface sow from late winter to early summer in a greenhouse, making sure that the compost does not dry out[200]. When large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into individual pots and grow them on in the greenhouse for their first winter. Plant out in late spring or early summer. Division in spring or autumn. Basal cuttings in late spring. Harvest the young shoots when about10 - 15cm long, pot up in a lightly shaded position in a greenhouse or cold frame and plant them out when well rooted. Very easy.

Cultivars There are some named forms for this species, but these have been developed for their ornamental value and not for their other uses. Unless you particularly require the special characteristics of any of these cultivars, we would generally recommend that you grow the natural species for its useful

properties. We have, therefore, not listed the cultivars in this database

This dried herb is closely associated with tribal beliefs and traditions. It is the most popular Native American botanical across North America. Sage is known as a cleansing herb and is harvested in June. Its appearance marks one of the great seasonal ceremonial cycles for Northern Plains Indians. During this time, Native American rituals such as the Sundance and the “Hanbleceya” (crying for a dream) or vision quest, are performed and beds of fragrant, soothing, fresh sage are created for each of the participants sharing in these traditional Native American ceremonies. The cool leaves of sage restore and refresh; the aroma helps to ground tribal members, tying them to their purpose. Sage is picked fresh, while still leafy and vigorous, then dried and bundled up for storage – the essential oils remaining in the leaves becomes concentrated, producing the characteristic scent when burned. Native Americans believe the smell of the burning sage pleases the spirits and the smoke repels any bad influences that exist nearby. Burning this Native American herb as a cleansing smudge provides a central focus for Native American rituals and spontaneous, as well as ceremonial prayers. Larger bundles of sage are used primarily in ceremonies and rituals. The Plains Indian tradition is to cover the floor of the sweat lodge with sage, it can also be spread over the ground in a lodge or over an altar. To perform the smudging ritual, strip the dried sage leaves from the stalk and roll the leaves into a small ball about the size of a fingernail. Light the ball on fire, offer to the six directions, and then place the sage on a nonflammable surface - let it smoke until it goes out.

In Closing

Stop. By finishing this document you are claiming to be 18 years of age or older.

This is an open document that is edited very frequently.

Neither this site nor the origin of this post claim accuracy or responsibility for any information herein. Use at your own discretion.

This document has no original author. It only has editors and those who've contributed anonymously or posthumously. It has truly been a decades long cluster of sharing knowledge and trading ideas.

If there are any issues with the document, edit it yourself and post it, or post the correction(s) and let someone else edit it. It's a universal thing. As far as the origin is concerned, this is an ongoing conversation and not a provision of information. Consider it as such as you browse this.

To date there are over 400 contributers to this document, over half of whom share different countries. No real names were given. They are not interested in growing these plants. They are interested that the information be available as literature.

This is an open. ongoing dialogue - not a book or pamphlet. It is not for sale. It's a post in a forum to discuss plants. It's not original. It's not protected, copywritten, or patented.

Some of the plants described in this document are not yet legal to grow in some countries.

Check with your nation's laws regarding this before attempting to do anything that could be interpreted as less than legal. Some of these plants are in fact capable of extreme toxicity if ingested or improperly handled. Consult reliable medical experts before ingesting or handling them. There is a vast amount of literature available both online and offline to assist you.

Muzicine

1984

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT OUTSIDE (AND NOT THE ONLY TIME)?

Spring is one of the four temperate seasons. Spring marks the transition from winter into summer.

Definition of Spring Meteorologists generally define 4 seasons in many climatic areas, Winter, Spring, Summer and Autumn (or Fall). These are demarcated by the values of their average temperatures on a monthly basis, with each season lasting 3 months. The 3 warmest months are by definition Summer, the 3 coldest months are Winter, and the intervening gaps are Spring and Autumn. Spring, when defined in this manner, can start on different dates in different regions. In the vast majority of northern-hemisphere locations, Spring occurs during the months of March, April and May. (Summer is June, July, August; Autumn is September, October, November; Winter is December, January, February.) The vast majority of southern-hemisphere locations will have opposing seasons with spring in September, October and November. [1]

Astronomically, the Vernal Equinox (usually March 20 in the Northern Hemisphere, and September 22 in the Southern Hemisphere), should be the middle of spring, and the summer solstice (usually June 21 in the Northern Hemisphere and December 21 in the Southern Hemisphere) should be mid-summer, but daytime temperatures lag behind insolation by several weeks because the earth and sea have thermal latency and take time to warm up. Some cultures call the spring equinox mid-spring, but others regard it as the "first day of spring". For most temperate regions, signs of spring appear long before the middle of March, but the folklore of March 21 being the "first day of spring" persists, though June 21 as the "first day of summer" is common only in the USA.

According to the Celtic tradition, which is based solely on daylight and the strength of the noon sun, spring begins in early February (near Imbolc or Candlemas) and continues until early May (Beltane).

The phenological definition of spring relates to indicators, the blossoming of a range of plant species, and the activities of animals, or the special smell of soil that has reached the temperature for micro flora to flourish. The first swallow to arrive or the flowering of lilac may be the indicator of spring. It therefore varies according to the climate and according to the specific weather of a particular year.

Spring is often a very rainy and muddy season, especially in the Northeast US.

Events that occur during spring In recent decades season creep has been observed, which means that many phenological signs of spring are occurring earlier in many regions by a couple of days per decade.

In spring, the axis of the Earth is increasing its tilt toward the Sun and the length of daylight rapidly increases for the relevant hemisphere. The hemisphere begins to warm significantly causing new plant growth to "spring forth," giving the season its name. Snow, if a normal part of winter, begins to melt, and streams swell with runoff. Frosts, if a normal part of winter, become less severe. Many temperate climates have no snow and may have no frosts, and the air and ground temperature increase. Many flowering plants bloom this time of year, in a long succession sometimes beginning even if snow is still on the ground, continuing into early summer. In normally snowless areas "spring" may begin as early as February (Northern Hemisphere) heralded by the blooming of deciduous magnolias, cherries, and quince, or August (Southern Hemisphere) in the same way. Subtropical and tropical areas have climates better described in terms of other seasons, eg dry or wet, or monsoonal, or cyclonic. Often the cultures have locally defined names for seasons which have little equivalence to the terms originating in Europe. Many temperate areas have a dry spring, and wet autumn (fall), which brings about flowering in this season more consistent with the need for water as well as warmth. Subarctic areas may not experience "spring" at all until May or even June, or December in the outer Antarctic.

While spring is a result of the warmth of the turning of the Earth's axis, the weather in many parts of the world is overlain by events which appear very erratic taken on a year to year basis, but the rainfall in spring, or any season, follows trends more related to longer cycles or events created by ocean currents and ocean temperatures which move to different complex effects. A good and well researched example being the El Niño effect and the Southern Oscillation Index.

Unstable weather may more often occur during spring, when warm air begins on occasions to invade from lower latitudes, while cold air is still pushing on occasions from the Polar Regions. Flooding is also most common in and near mountainous areas during this time of year because of snowmelt, many times accelerated by warm rains. In the United States, Tornado Alley is most active this time

of year, especially since the Rocky Mountains prevent the surging hot and cold air masses from spreading eastward and instead force them directly at each other. Besides tornadoes, supercell thunderstorms can also produce dangerously large hail and very high winds, for which a severe thunderstorm warning or tornado warning is usually issued. Even more so than winter, the jet streams play an important role in unstable and severe weather in the springtime in the Northern Hemisphere.

As mentioned, spring is a term for temperate climates, but the news of many countries covers large parts of continents and so we may hear of the hurricane season (Northern Hemisphere) and cyclone season Southern Hemisphere officially beginning in late spring. This is less to do with the relationship of spring to hurricanes / cyclones but more to do with the extent of media coverage and the use of seasonal terms from the one part of a continent to make reference to what is happening in other less temperate climates. The monsoon season is the monsoon season, and not some variation of spring or summer, except for those perceiving it from a temperate climate background.

Spring is seen as a time of growth, renewal, of new life (both plant and animal) being born. The term is also used more generally as a metaphor for the start of better times, as in Prague Spring.

Spring is the end of winter, and is marked by lengthening days.