Sport Park Flyer Electric R/C Aircraft - Home of ElectroFlying Models

ElectroFlying, Inc. 2547 83rd Court North, Minneapolis, MN 55444 763-560-5529 • [email protected] © 2005, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Rev. #1.3 – 9/14/2007

Go-Go Dancer Instruction Manual

Sport Park Flyer Electric R/C Aircraft

Designed and Drawn by Steven E. Pauley • © 2005, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Wing Span: 26” Length: 25.6” Wing Area: 163 sq. in. Weight: 6.8 oz. Wing Loading: 6 oz. per sq. ft.

2 Cell 640 mAh LiPoly (7.4 v) @ 4.2 amps. Total Input Watts: 30 or 75 watts per lb.

Motor: GoBrushless V1 16T Outrunner and Thunderbird 9 Controller Prop: 6” x 4” Electric

Transmitter: 4-Channel Receiver: Micro 4 channel Servos: 3 Hitec HS-45HB

Go-Go Dancer - INTRODUCTION 2M O D E L S

Read through this manual before starting construction. It contains important

instructions and warnings concerning the assembly and use of this model.

Go-Go Dancer is a 30-watt electric-powered sport park flyer. Powered by a small CD-ROM brushless motor and a 2-cell 640 mAh LiPoly battery, Go-Go Dancer will give you spirited performance at a very affordable price. The Go-Go Dancer Design

Go-Go Dancer is an original kit designed for modelers with an interest in electric-powered airplanes capable of park flying and sport aerobatics. Go-Go Dancer was designed from the beginning for lightweight brushless CD-ROM motors and LiPoly cells. This airplane makes use of strong, lightweight design and construction, which improves electric-powered flight performance and du-ration. Using the suggested motor and cells, Go-Go Dancer weighs about 7 oz. ready-to-fly. Go-Go Dancer was designed to fly a wide speed range and handle windier conditions than most park flyers. Aerobatics, from very tight maneu-vers to large, powerful loops, slow rolls, snaps, and big stall turns are possible with Go-Go Dancer. Go-Go Dancer is very stable, and if trimmed out right, will almost land itself. Go-Go Dancer is controllable and flies smoothly even in high winds, yet slows down and lands like a feather. Go-Go Dancer is a great-flying electric-powered model that flies predictably - not your typical “flip-and-flop” park flyer. Go-Go Dancer should not be flown by a beginner R/C pilot.

Go-Go Dancer was designed to make motor battery changes as easy as possible, with no tools required. You don’t have to turn the airplane over or remove the wing to change batteries. Just lift the front battery hatch up and flip it forward for easy battery access. The hatch is hooked in the front and small magnets hold the hatch rear in place. The recommended motor for Go-Go Dancer is the GoBrushless basic CD-ROM motor kit with 16 turns powered by 2S1P - 640mAh LiPoly cells at 5 amps. A 6” x 4” prop is recommended. This combination gives spectacular performance and long flight times. Go-Go Dancer is light, yet tough. Go-Go Dancer is a simple-to-build, fly-anywhere airplane that is one of the best ways to get into brushless performance on a budget.

This kit features leading edge design and interlocking laser-cut parts for excep-tional fit, quality, and ease of construction. A complete set of hardware is also included. The Go-Go Dancer plans were drawn on a computer using professional design software. We believe that the Go-Go Dancer plans are a work of art and continue our high standards in kit manufacturing at ElectroFlying Models.

Easy-building engineering, great price, brushless performance and great flying qualities, the Go-Go Dancer has it all.

WARNING!

This is not a beginner's airplane. This R/C kit and the model you will build from it is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and property damage. It is your responsibility, and yours alone, to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying gear (motor, batteries, speed control, radio, servos, pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and fly it only with experienced competent help, using common sense and in accordance with all safety stan-dards as set forth in the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Safety Code.

It is suggested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before attempting to fly this model. Warranty

ElectroFlying, Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any components damaged by use or modification. In no case shall ElectroFlying‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, ElectroFlying reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

ElectroFlying has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, therefore no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled aircraft kit. By the act of using the user-assembled aircraft kit, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this aircraft kit, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to ElectroFlying, Inc. Follow These Important Safety Precautions:

1. This kit should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its perfor-mance capabilities, it could cause injury to yourself and spectators or damage to property, if it is not assembled and operated correctly.

2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.

3. You must take time to build straight and strong. You should not use any materials or kit supplied parts that you suspect are defective or damaged. Request replacement kit parts from ElectroFlying, Inc.

4. You should only use R/C radio systems that are in perfect working order.

5. You must check the operation of the model before every flight to ensure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Replace any part that shows any sign of wear or fatigue.

6. Check control surface travel and direction before each flight.

7. Do a radio range check before the first flight or after any change to the model's radio system. Never use a radio system that has been involved in a crash without a professional check-out and repair if needed.

8. Do not over-power this kit. Use only recommended electric motors and cells.

9. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you should fly the model only with the help of a competent, experienced R/C pilot.

10. While this airplane kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, the airplane should not be used for high stress flying, such as racing.

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

Go-Go Dancer - INTRODUCTION 3M O D E L S

Before You Start

Compare the parts in this kit with the parts list on this page, and note any missing parts. Also inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable qual-ity. If any part is missing, broken or poor quality, or if you have any questions about building or flying this airplane, please call us at 763-560-5529, or email us at [email protected]. If you are contacting us for replacement parts, please include the kit name, part name, part code/number and your mailing address. You can also check our web site at www.electroflying.com for the latest updates.

Recommended Receiver, Motor and Batteries

The ElectroFlying Go-Go Dancer can use any standard 4-channel narrow-band receiver, but to save a little weight you may want to use one of the smaller receivers such as the Castle Creations Berg 4L. Go-Go Dancer has been design to use 3 Hitec HS-45HB servos and a BEC. The recommended motor for Go-Go Dancer is the GoBrushless basic CD-ROM motor kit with 16 turns powered by 2S1P - 640mAh LiPoly cells at 4.5 amps. A 6” x 4” prop is recommended. See page 17 for more motor tips.

Supplied Parts List (Or What's In The Kit)

Use the checklist below to make sure you have everything before you start. If you are missing any parts, contact us at 763-560-5529 or at [email protected].

General

(1) This Manual (22 Pages, Illustrated)

(1) Plan Sheet Rolled (18" x 30")

Wood (Balsa, Birch & Lite-Ply)

(1) 1/16" x 2" Birch Dowels (Balance Point)

(1) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S1 (Wing Ribs & Hatch Top)

(1) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S2 (TE, Motor Mount & Hatch Parts)

(1) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S3 (Fuse Sides & Bottom)

(1) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S4 (Fuse Sides, Top & Bottom)

(1) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S5 (Fuse Sides & Bottom)

(1) Laser Cut 1/16" Balsa Sheet V1S6 (Fuse Sides & Top)

(1) Laser Cut 3/32" Balsa Sheet V1S7 (Ribs, Spar & LG Struts)

(1) Laser Cut 3/32" Balsa Sheet V1S8 (Ailerons)

(1) Laser Cut 1/8" Balsa Sheet V1S9 (Elevator, Stab, Fin & Rudder)

(1) Laser Cut 1/8" Balsa Sheet V1S10 (Nose, Pilot & Former)

(1) Laser Cut 1/8" Lite-Ply V1S11 (Formers and Motor Mount)

(1) Laser Cut 1/32" Plywood Sheet V1S12 (Doublers & Control Horns)

(1) Laser Cut 1/16" Plywood Sheet V1S13 (Wing Joiner & Motor Mount)

(1) 1/16" x 1/4" x 25 1/4" Balsa Stick (Bottom Wing Spar)

(1) 3/32" x 1/4" x 25 1/4" Balsa Stick (Top Wing Spar)

(1) 1/8" x 1/4" x 25 1/4" Balsa Stick (Wing Trailing Edge)

(1) 1/4" x 1/4" x 25 1/4" Balsa Stick (Wing Leading Edge)

Hardware

(4) Du-Bro Micro E/Z Links

(4) .032 Micro Pushrod Wires

(1) #2 x 1/2" Button Head Sheet Metal Screws (Du-Bro 526)

(1) #8 x 3/4" Nylon Bolt

(1) #8 Nylon Nut

(1) 3" x 3/4" Adhesive Back Velcro Strip (Hook and Loop Set)

Additional Items Required to Complete Go-Go Dancer1 Roll of Lightweight Iron-On Plastic Covering (Nelson LiteFILM or Ultracoat Lite Film)Clear Packing Tape for Hinges1" K&S 3/8" Brass Tube #135 (0.345 I.D.)(Solder to motor bearing holder)

Optional Landing Gear Hardware (Not Part of Basic Kit)(1) 1/16"x 12" Music Wire (Landing Gear Legs)(2) 1-1/2" Du-Bro Lightweight Foam Wheels(1) 1" Du-Bro Lightweight Foam Wheel(4) 1/16" Du-Bro Wheel Collars and Set Screws

Building Supplies/AdhesivesThin C/A, Thick C/A, and Canopy GlueC/A Accelerator (Optional)120, 220, and 400 Grit Sanding Paper and Various Size Sanding BlocksWaxed PaperThread LockerLite Hobby Filler

Building ToolsFlat, level building surface (2' x 4' Ceiling Tile recommended)Hobby Knife with #11 Blades and Cutting MatSmall T-Pins.050 Hex Ball WrenchElectric Drill, 1/32" Drill BitSmall and Medium Flat-blade Screw DriversSmall Phillips Screw Drivers (00)Needle Nose Pliers and Various Small ClampsCovering Iron and Sock24" Straightedge/RulerMasking Tape and/or Small Rubber BandsRotary Tool and Reinforced Cut-off Wheel

Abbreviations

Fuse = Fuselage Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Vertical Stabilizer or Fin LG = Landing Gear

LE = Leading Edge TE = Trailing Edge

" = Inches Lite-Ply = Lightweight Plywood

Go-Go Dancer - INSTRUCTIONS 4M O D E L S

Building Notes

Whenever you see the term "Glue" written in the instructions, you should use a quality hobby-grade Thin C/A type glue.

Photos and drawings in the instructions are placed to the left of the steps they refer to. It may be helpful to look ahead in the instructions or refer to the Plan call-outs if you are confused about the current step or photo. Part numbers on laser-cut parts are top-side-up, unless otherwise noted.

Most of the wood parts in this kit have been laser-cut for accuracy and quality. The parts are held in place in each sheet by small tabs or breaks in the laser cut. If you have trouble removing the parts from the sheets without damage, you can use a hobby knife to cut the tabs. Take your time and inspect all of the parts after you have them removed. Save the wood scraps until you have finished the kit. Very light sanding of the parts can remove any tab bumps, but this should be unnecessary for the most part.

The wood will have a light brown edge from the laser that will not have any effect on building strength. You may want to sand the brown edge of parts that will be visible when using transparent coverings. Be careful not to over-sand the soft balsa wood and change the shape or size.

Take your time and enjoy building your Go-Go Dancer. Building from a kit can be a satisfying part of this sport and can add to your skills as an R/C pilot. You will have a better understanding of your airplane because, unlike an ARF, you will get to know every part and function as you build. Go-Go Dancer has been designed to build quickly, and with Go-Go Dancer's laser-cut parts, building accuracy is easier to achieve. The following instructions will lead you through the building process, so clean off the building board and get started building your Go-Go Dancer. Building your own R/C airplane from a kit can be one of the most rewarding experiences in this sport.

Tail Group Construction 1 Start the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator construction by covering the Plan with wax paper to protect the Plan and keep the parts from sticking to it. The Stabilizer and Elevator are constructed from laser-cut 1/8" balsa stock. You will find all of the parts on sheet V1S9.

2 Fit the 6 pieces (R1 – R6) that make up the Rudder together over the plans. Use thin C/A to hold the parts together. If you block-sand the Rudder joins, as soon as you apply the C/A you will fill any gaps in the joins with balsa dust and make a nice tight fit. The Vertical Fin is just one piece and requires no building

3 Build the Horizontal Stabilizer (S1, S2 & S3) and Elevator (E1 – E8 & EJ) over the plans like the Rudder. They are built top-side-up. After the joints have been glued with C/A, the Elevator is turned upside-down and the plywood Elevator Doubler (ED) is glued to the bottom as shown in this photo. Make sure the plywood Elevator Doubler is lined up with the balsa parts.


4 Sand a 45º bevel on the bottom trailing edge of the Horizon-tal Stabilizer as shown in this photo. This is different from most kits, which have you bevel the elevator leading edge.

5 Sand a 45º bevel on the left side of the Rudder. Take care not to notch the top of the Rudder.

6 You should sand the trailing edge of the Elevator and Rudder to about 1 /16". Tapering the trailing edges will reduce the weight of the parts and improve the looks of your model. It will be easier to balance your Go-Go Dancer if you keep the weight of Tail Group parts to a minimum.

Set the Tail Group parts aside for now. You will be mounting them on the Fuselage in a later step.

Wing Construction

7 Start the Wing construction by covering the Wing area of the Plans with wax paper. Find all the Spars, Ribs, Joiners and other Wing parts before you start.

Important Note: There are four 25 1/4" balsa sticks included in the kit that are used in the Wing construction. They are very close in thickness and you will have to be careful that you are using the right one for each purpose. The 1/16" x 1/4" piece is used for the Bottom Wing Spar. The 3/32" x 1/4" piece is for the Top Wing Spar. The 1/8" x 1/4" piece is used for the Wing Trailing Edge. The 1/4" x 1/4" piece is used for the Wing Leading Edge.

8 Carefully pin the 1/16" x 1/4" x 25 1/4" balsa Bottom Wing Spar to the plans. Locate the pins so that you can position the laser-cut Center Spar on top.

9 Lay the two Trailing Edge Spar (TES) pieces on the plans in position. Position the Wing Mount Brace (WMB) in place on the plans. Position the two Wing Center Spars (WCS) on top of the Bot-tom Wing Spar. Position the 1/16" plywood Wing Spar Joiner (WSJ) and align it with the notches in the Wing Center Spars.

10 Slide the two center 3/32" Wing Ribs (WR1) in the center notches of the Wing Spar Joiner. Fit them over the Wing Lower Spar, Wing Mount Brace and into the notches on the Wing Trailing Edge. They should friction-fit into place, but you may tack them in place, with C/A, if needed. You will glue the Spars and Ribs together after all the full-length Ribs are in place.


11 Position the two 3/32" Wing Ribs (WR4) at each Wing Tip. Make sure they fit against the notch in the Wing Center Spar and in the notch of the Wing Trailing Edge. You may have to use a little C/A to hold these Ribs in place.

12 Fit the six Wing Ribs (WR3) to the Wing Spar notches and the Trailing Edge notches. Wing should have all the full-length Ribs in place as pictured here.

13 Use a straightedge along the Trailing Edge to help keep the Wing straight as you now glue the full-length Ribs in place on the Spar and Trailing Edge.

14 Glue the Wing Center Spar to the Wing Lower Spar along the full length of the Wing.

15 Fit (Do Not Glue) the remaining Wing Ribs (WR2) into the slots on the Wing Center Spar.

16 Position the 1/4" sq. Leading Edge. While holding the LE in place, glue it to the center two Wing Ribs (WR1). Then glue the LE to the two tip Wing Ribs (WR4).

17 Reposition the remaining Wing Ribs (WR2 & WR3) and C/A them to the Leading Edge. Sand the end of the Leading Edge flush with Wing Rib (WR4).

18 Glue Wing Ribs (WR2) to the Wing Spar.


19 Glue the 3/32" x 1/4" balsa Wing Top Spar (WTS) in place with C/A. Sand the Wing Top Spar flush with Wing Ribs (WR4).

20 Glue the 1/8" x 1/4" x 25 1/4" balsa Wing Trailing Edge (WTE) to the rear edge of Trailing Edge Spar (TESs) and Ribs. Sand the Wing Trailing Edge flush with Wing Ribs (WR4).

21 Glue the 1/16" plywood Wing Trailing Edge Joiner (WTEJ) in place. It should fit in the gap between WR1s and the WTE.

22 Position the Wing Tips (WT) in place and C/A.

Remove Wing from the building board and check all your glue joints.

23 Locate all the laser-cut Aileron parts. They can be found on sheet V1S8.

Note: You do not have to build the Ailerons over the Plans, but you should use them as a guide. The Ailerons are built upside-down as pictured here. You should use a straightedge to make sure LE of the Ailerons are straight before you glue everything in place.

24 Fit the Aileron Spar (AS) into the notches of the Wing Aileron (WA).

25 Fit the Aileron Ribs (AR1 – AR4) into the notches of the Wing Aileron. There are Four different sizes of these and you should use the Plans to get them located in the right position.

26 After all the Aileron pieces are in place, you can use C/A to lock everything in place.

27 Sand a 40º bevel on the bottom LE of the Ailerons as pictured here.

28 Sand the bottom of the Ailerons from the Aileron Spar to the TE of the Aileron. The Aileron TE should be about 1/16" thick after sanding.

Set the Wing and Ailerons aside for now. You will be mounting them on the Fuselage in a later step.


Fuselage Construction

29 Using the Plan as a guide, fit and glue with C/A the three Fuselage Side (FS1, FS2 & FS3) pieces together for each side of the Fuselage. Make a left and right side with the laser-engraved part numbers on the inside so they will not be visible through the covering.

30 Attach the Nose Gear (NG1 & NG2) pieces to Fuselage Former (FF1). Refer to the Plan and the picture at left for position.

31 Attach the Fuselage Former Doubler (FFD) to the back of Fuselage Former (FF5) flush with the top edge. Press-fit the 8-32 Nylon Nut into FFD.

32 Glue the six Nose pieces (N1 – N6) together as shown. Sand the back edges flush with each other.

33 Assemble Fuselage Formers (FF3 – FF5) and Servo Tray (ST) together over the Plan. DO NOT glue the parts to each other at this time. You should be able to align them over the Plans at the correct angles.


34 Position the assembly from the previous step over the right Fuselage Side and fit all of the tabs into the notches. DO NOT glue any of the parts yet. Remember to use the side that will have the part numbers facing inside.

35 Position the left Fuselage Side against the Former assembly and fit the Former tabs into the Fuselage Side notches.

36 Hold the Sides in contact with the Formers. Glue (C/A) Fuselage Formers and Servo Tray (FF3, FF5 & ST) to the Fuselage Sides (FS). DO NOT glue Fuselage Former (FF4) to the Fuselage Sides until Step 38.

37 Tack Fuselage Former (FF2) in place between Fuselage Sides.

38 Slip Fuselage Side Doublers (FSD) into slot between Fuselage Side and FF2. Rear tip of FSD fits into the slot between the Fuselage Side and FF3. This doubler forms a lip to help keep the Hatch in place during flight. Glue FF2, FSD, and the front half of FF4 to the Fuselage Sides.

39 Attach the 1/32" plywood Battery Hook Reinforcement (BHR) and 1/8" Lite-Ply Battery Hook (BH) to each Fuselage Side just ahead of FF2.

Note: The open end of the Battery Hook should be facing down. See inset picture.


40 Use C/A to attach Fuselage Former (FF1) to the front end of the Fuselage Sides.

41 Attach Fuselage Top (FT1) to the top front of the Fuselage Sides.

42 Build the Motor Mount and Fuselage Former sub-assembly as pictured. This assembly uses 1/16" plywood Motor Mount pieces (MM2 & MM4 – MM6), balsa Motor Mount pieces (MM1 & MM3), plus Lite-Ply Fuselage Former (FF7). Glue MM5 and MM6 together first, then fit the rest of the pieces together and C/A all the joints to lock everything in place.

43 Sand the front bottom edge of MM1 flush with the bottom edge of MM3.

44 Fit the tabs of Fuselage Former (FF6) into the Fuselage notches.

45 Slide your Motor Mount assembly in place between the Fuselage Side from the back.

46 Use C/A to lock the Motor Mount/Fuselage Former assem-bly to the Fuselage Sides. C/A Fuselage Former (FF6) in place.

47 Finish gluing the rear part of Fuselage Former (FF4) to the Fuselage Sides.

48 Fit Fuselage Formers FF8, FF9 and FF10 between Fusleage Sides. Make sure the labels on each part face the front of the airplane and are right-side-up. The small holes in each piece are the guides for the push rods. Tape the rear of the fuselage sides together to help hold these Formers in place for the next step.


49 Fit the Fuselage Top pieces (FT2, FT3 & FT4 in place. Friction should hold them in place. Sight down the fuselage and make sure it is not twisted. When you are sure the Fuselage is straight, C/A the FF8, FF9, FF10, FT2, FT3 and FT4 pieces in place.

50 Glue Fuselage Bottom (FB4) and Fuselage Bottom (FB5) together. Position the assembly on the Fuselage bottom.

51 Making sure the Fuselage is straight and twist-free, glue (C/A) the assembly (FB4 & FB5) in place on the Fuselage.

52 C/A Fuselage Bottom (FB6) in place on Fuselage.

53 Slip tabs of Vertical Stabilizer (VS2) into FB6. Tack glue this in place. You will need to align this with the Vertical Stabilizer (VS1) in a later step.

54 Glue Fuselage Bottom (FB1) and Fuselage Bottom (FB2) together. Position the assembly on the bottom of the Fuselage.

55 Making sure the Fuselage is straight and twist free, glue (C/A) the assembly (FB1 & FB2) in place on the Fuselage.

56 You should have one last Fuselage Bottom piece (FB3) left over. Fit this into the remaining gap on the Fuselage bottom. DO NOT glue this piece in place. This piece functions as a hatch for ac-cess to the Rudder and Elevator Servo. You will need access to them until the very end of construction.


Hatch Construction

57 Glue Hatch Sides H4 and H5 together over the Plans. Make two of these side assemblies.

58 Glue Hatch side H6 to the inside corner of each assembly. H6 is a reinforcement for the joint between H4 and H5. Make sure you make a left and right side as pictured here. Make a left and right side with the laser-engraved part numbers on the inside so they will not be visible through the covering.

59 Position Hatch Top pieces (H2 & H3) on the tabs of one of the Hatch Sides. Fit the other Hatch Side in place.

60 C/A Hatch Sides and Top together.

61 Fit and C/A Hatch Top (H1) in place on Hatch sides. Check Hatch fit on Fuselage.

62 C/A a Magnet into the Hatch (H9) piece and Fuselage For-mer (FF3). Make sure they are attracted to each other. C/A Hatch (H9) to the rear side of Hatch. Important: The H9 part number should be right-side-up.


63 C/A Hatch (H7) between Hatch Sides at the front.

64 C/A Hatch (H8) on the top rear of the Hatch.

65 C/A the Hatch Hold-Down Tab (H10) to the front of the Hatch between Hatch Sides. See inset picture.

66 Set finished Hatch back on Fuselage and sand front and side flush with Fuselage.

67 Sand the Fuselage, Hatch, Tail Group and Wing. Don't forget to sand a nice round Leading Edge on the Wing. Use the plans as a guide. Use a little model filler to cover up any holes or damage that occurred during building.

Component Assembly and Sanding

68 Set the Wing on the Fuselage and use a small clamp to hold it in place. Make sure the Wing is all the way back in the slot under the Motor Mount.

69 Glue the Horizontal Stabilizer assembly to the Fuselage. Make sure that it is square with the Fuselage and level with the Wing. You can sight from the rear as pictured here to check if it’s level.

70 Glue Vertical Stabilizer (VS1) in place. Make sure it is per-pendicular to the Horizontal Stabilizer and in line with the Fuselage. Check that VS1, VS2, and the rear of the Fuselage are all lined up vertically. This will be the edge that the Rudder is hinged to and it must be straight.

71 Optional: Build your pilot from the three laser-cut parts P1, P2, and P3. P2 goes between the other two parts.

72 Tape the Ailerons onto the TE of the Wing. Set the Hatch and Pilot in place on the Fuselage. Trial fit the Elevator and Rudder in place. You can use a little tape to hold them in place for now. You can see the motor has also been trial fitted in place.

Now it's time to stand back and admire your work. A balsa airplane model in the "Bare-Bones" stage is a thing of beauty. An ARF will never look this good. The complete airframe should weigh about 2 1/2 ozs.


Covering and Hardware Installation

Note: Covering your Go-Go Dancer and installing hardware should be done in the following sequence. Experienced builders may have their own way to do things, but you should at least read through the steps so that you will be aware of potential problems. There are two key things to keep in mind: 1) DO NOT cover the bottom of the Fuselage until you have finished installing the Elevator and Rudder controls. You will need access to the Servos and Pushrods. 2) Cover the bottom of the Wing first, then glue the Wing Mount (WM) to the back of the Spar from the top, and finally cover the top of the Wing. You will need access to the Wing Spar when you are gluing the Wing Mount to it. Cover your Go-Go Dancer using any lightweight covering. We suggest Nelson LiteFilm or Ultracoat Lite. Do not use "regular weight" iron-on covering. Regular covering will cause warps and you will not be able to get a nice tight/flat finish.

73 Cover the bottom of the Wing.

74 Cut out the covering around the Wing Mount Brace (WMB). Slide the Wing Mount (WM) into the slot and make sure it fits tight against the back of the Wing Spar Joiner (WSJ). Clamp it in place with a small clamp.

75 Position the Wing on the Fuselage. Make sure the Wing Mount makes contact with Fuselage Former (FF5) and the TE is all the way back in the slot under the Motor Mount. Sand if necessary for a perfect fit. Take your time–a perfect fit here is important to the strength of the Wing mounting.

76 Screw the 8-32 Nylon Bolt through the WM, FF5, FFD and the 8-32 Nylon Nut. DO NOT tighten down the Bolt–leave about 1/16" between the head of the Bolt and WM.

77 Very carefully tack the Wing Mount (WM) to the Wing Spar Joiner (WSJ). If you get careless, you may glue the Wing to the Fuselage by mistake.

78 Tighten down (don't overdo it) the Nylon Bolt. If the WM breaks loose from the WSJ, you did not have a perfect fit between the Wing and the Fuselage and you must try again. It’s better to find out now instead of in-flight.

79 If the WM stayed attached to the WSJ, remove the Wing from the Fuselage and finish gluing the WM to the WSJ with thick C/A or Epoxy.

80 Finish the Wing top covering.

81 Cover the control surfaces (Ailerons, Elevator, and Rudder). You should also cover the Pilot and Hatch at this time.


82 Fasten the Receiver to the bottom of the Fuselage with double-sided foam tape just ahead of FF3. Mount the Elevator and Rudder Servos upside-down as shown on the drawing.

83 Cover the Fuselage Top and Sides.

84 Glue the 1/32" plywood Elevator Control Horn (EH) on the inside edge of the right Elevator half.

85 Use 3/4" wide strips of clear packing tape to join the top of the Elevator to the Stabilizer.

86 The Elevator Pushrod should be run through the upper slot on the right side of the Fuselage. The Pushrod should pass through the small holes in each of the Fuselage Formers (FF6 – FF9). Use the supplied Du-Bro hardware to connect the Pushrod to the Elevator Horn. Use a "Z" bend at the Servo Arm connection. Adjust Elevator alignment by bending the Pushrod "V" adjustment.

87 Glue the 1/32" plywood Rudder Control Horn (RH) on the bottom left side of the Rudder.

88 Use 3/4" wide strips of clear packing tape to join the Rud-der to the Vertical Stabilizer on the right side.

89 The Rudder Pushrod should be run through the lower slot on the left side of the Fuselage. The Pushrod should pass through the small holes in each of the Fuselage Formers (FF6 – FF9). Use the supplied Du-Bro hardware to connect the Pushrod to the Rudder Horn. Use a "Z" bend at the Servo Arm connection. Adjust Rudder alignment by bending the Pushrod "V" adjustment.

90 Run the Receiver Antenna out through the lower slot on the right side of the Fuselage.

91 Glue the Aileron Horns (AH) to the inside edge of both Ailerons. Note: The Horns should be flush with the bottoms and stick above the Ailerons.

92 Use 3/4" wide strips of clear packing tape to join the Ailerons to the Wing.

93 Install the Aileron Servos and connect the Pushrods. Adjust the Pushrods so that the bottom of the Ailerons are level with the bottom of the Wing.

Note: You will have to disconnect the pushrods to the Ailerons before you can remove the wing.


94 Slide the Motor into the Motor Mount. You will have to feed the Speed Control and Wires into the Fuselage as you slide the Motor into place. Drill a 1/32" hole down through MM2 and the Brass Motor Tube. Use the #2 Button Head Screw to secure the Motor to the Mount.

95 Use double-sided foam tape to mount the Motor Control to the inside of the Fuselage.

96 Test run the motor WITHOUT the prop to make sure it is running in the right direction. Looking at it from behind the model, it should be turning clockwise. Secure the airplane before you connect the Motor Battery to the Speed Control. Follow your Motor and Speed Control directions on proper arming and disarming procedures. Make sure you have the brake feature disabled and the correct voltage cut-off set for your batteries.

97 Make sure the servos are moving in the right directions and that the control surfaces are moving the correct distances. The correct Control Throws are noted on the Plan.

98 When everything checks out OK, put the bottom Fuselage hatch in place and cover the Fuselage Bottom.

99 Fold and glue the clear plastic Canopy in place around the Hatch. Use a non-fogging canopy glue. Trim flush with Hatch edges.

100 Insert the 1/16" Dowel through the hole in the Fuselage about 1" below the Wing Spar. Center it side-to-side and glue it in place. This is the balance point for your Go-Go Dancer.

101 Make sure that the Prop is balanced and secured to the Motor. The front of the Prop should be facing forward. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS NOT CONNECTED WHEN WORKING WITH PROP.

102 With everything installed including the Battery and Hatch, balance your Go-Go Dancer using the Dowel. The bottom of the Wing and bottom center of the Fuselage should be level. You can re-locate the Battery, Receiver, etc. to adjust the balance. Once you have Go-Go Dancer balanced, mark the location of the Motor Battery Pack. You should also check the balance side-to-side and correct if necessary. You can use the supplied Velcro and Rubber Bands to secure the Battery during flight.

Note: This completes the construction phase of your Go-Go Dancer. It's time to charge up the batteries and head to the flying field.


FLYING Go-Go Dancer

Flying Qualities

Go-Go Dancer is a unique airplane designed to be a fly-anywhere sport airplane. Go-Go Dancer can be flown in an area as small as a baseball in-field or even a large indoor site. However, you should have more room for the first few flights, until you have the airplane trimmed and you are comfortable with Go-Go Dancer's handling qualities. Even though Go-Go Dancer is small, it can be flown like a larger airplane, including loops, stall turns, etc. Most R/C pilots with intermediate-level skills should be able to fly Go-Go Dancer. Because of Go-Go Dancer's unique design, you will need to use rudder control with aile-rons for proper coordinated turns. This will also help prevent reverse aileron control and stalls at low air speeds.

Go-Go Dancer's lightweight design makes a very responsive and aerobatic park-flyer, even with a modest 30-watt power system. The suggested Go-Brushless motor kit gives about a one-to-one thrust-to-weight ratio.

Go-Go Dancer has a wide speed range. Depending on weight and building accuracy, Go-Go Dancer will stall at about 8 mph and can be flown at a top speed of 35 mph. Go-Go Dancer is a very lightweight design and should not be flown above this speed.

Before First Flight

Install the LiPoly motor battery and give the airplane a check-out. Review the Safety Precautions on page 2. Have another adult person help you conduct a radio range check with and without the motor running.

First Flight

You can hand-launch Go-Go Dancer with an overhand motion and release at about 5º up and 3/4 throttle. As your Go-Go Dancer gains speed gently add a little up elevator. Maintain a gentle climb. Gain a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern.

After you have reached a safe altitude, throttle back to about 2/3 power. Adjust the trim settings to maintain straight and level flight. Take it easy with

your Go-Go Dancer for the first few flights and allow yourself to get used to the handling qualities.

After flying around for a minute you should practice slow flight and landing approaches. See how your Go-Go Dancer handles at low speeds, then add power to test how well it will climb. Ease the power back on (don't go to full throttle instantly) when you are at low airspeeds or your Go-Go Dancer will pitch down just when you wanted it to climb.

Landing

When you have used about half of your estimated flying time you should land and check your model over. Use a longer landing approach but don't let your airspeed drop to low. Use elevator and throttle input to control how fast your Go-Go Dancer settles to the runway or grass. Turn the motor off just before you touch down.

Build Flight Time and Experience

After a few flights you can carefully build your experience with Go-Go Dancer's capabilities. Learn how your Go-Go Dancer behaves in different conditions. Build your experience carefully so you don't surprise yourself by attempting a maneuver that Go-Go Dancer was not designed for and finding you have run out of time, altitude, or airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate and planned. Experiment at least “a couple of mistakes high.”

Enjoy your Go-Go Dancer and Fly Safe

Good luck, and we hope you enjoy flying your new Go-Go Dancer for years to come. We would appreciate any comments or suggestions you have about Go-Go Dancer. Email us at: [email protected].

For the latest Go-Go Dancer updates and plan or manual corrections, visit our website at: http://www.electroflying.com. Look for the KIT UPDATES button.

Motor Building Tips

A The GoBrushless Newbie Kit is the perfect choice for your Go-Go Dancer. The Go-Go Dancer kit was design around this motor.

B 16 turns of 26 gauge wire is perfect for this motor and airplane combination. Turn 9 turns out and 7 turns back in. This gives you two neat layers of wire and will not interfere with the can.

C To mount the Motor solder or epoxy a 1" piece of brass tube to the brass motor bearing holder. We have found it easier to wind the motor with this tube added before winding. Use K&S 3/8" tube #135 with a 0.345 I.D.

D The Castle Creations Phoenix 10 control is the perfect control for this motor. Maxx Products make a perfect 3 mm Colette style prop adapter and 6" x 4" prop for this motor.

E Use a heat shrink tubing and a tie wrap to secure motor wires.


Optional Landing Gear

1 Instructions

BLANK


Go-Go Dancer - PLAN 20M O D E L S

WR13/32" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR21/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR43/32" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR21/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR21/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR21/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR31/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR31/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR31/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WT3/32" Balsa

Wing Tip

WLE - 1/4" Sq. Balsa Wing Leading Edge Note: shape leading edge to blend with rib profile

WCS 3/32" Laser-Cut BalsaWing Center Spar

WTS 3/32" x 1/4" Balsa StickWing Top Spar

WM1/8" Lite-PlyWing Mount

1/8" BalsaScrap To Center

Wing on FuselageTES 1/16" Laser-Cut Balsa

Trailing Edge SparWTE 1/8" x 1/4" Balsa Stick

Wing Trailing EdgeWTEJ 1/16" Laser-Cut Plywood

Wing Trailing Edge Joiner

WLE - 1/4" Sq. Balsa Wing Leading Edge

WMB 1/16" BalsaWing Mount Brace

WSJ 1/16" PlywoodWing Spar Joiner

WR13/32" Balsa

Wing Rib

Note:Bevel Bottom of Ailerons

WTE 1/8" x 1/4"Wing Trailing Edge WTEJ 1/16"

PlywoodWing TrailingEdge Joiner

TES 1/16" BalsaWing Trailing Edge

WCS 3/32" BalsaWing Center Spar

WTS 3/32" x 1/4"Balsa Wing

Top Spar



WSJ1/16"

PlywoodWing Spar

Joiner

WLE - 1/4" Sq. BalsaWing Leading Edge

Note: shape leading edge to blend with rib profile

WBS 1/16" x 1/4" Balsa StickWing Bottom Spar

WBS 1/16" x 1/4"Balsa Wing

Bottom Spar

Go-Go Dancer - Sport Park Flyer Electric R/C AircraftDesigned and Drawn by Steven E. Pauley ¥ ' 2005, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Wing Span: 26" Length: 25.6" Wing Area: 163 sq. in. Weight: 6.6 oz. Wing Loading: 5.8 oz. per sq. ft.2 Cells 640mAh LiPoly (7.4v) @ 4.2 amps. Total Input Watts: 30 or 73 watts per lb.

Motor: GoBrushless V1 16T Outrunner and Thunderbird 9 Controller Prop: 6" x 4" ElectricTransmitter: 4 Channel Receiver: Micro 4 Channel (Berg 4L) Servos: 3 Hitec HS-45HB Rev.#1.4 9/14/2007

AH1/32" Plywood

Aileron Control HornN1, N2, N3, N4,N5 & N6

Balsa Nose BlockLaminations

Optional1" Nose

Wheel and1/16" Music

Wire Leg

LiPoly Pack2S1P 640 mAh

P1, P2, P3Balsa Pilot

LaminationsH1

1/16" BalsaHatch Deck

H31/16" BalsaHatch Back

H41/16" BalsaHatch Side

H6

H71/16" BalsaHatch Front

.015 Mylar Fold Mylar CanopyOver Hatch Frame and Glue -

Trim Flush with Edge When Dry

FS11/16" Balsa

Fuselage Side

FF1

FF2

FF3FSD

FT1

H101/16" Balsa

Hatch Tab

FB21/16" Balsa

Fuselage Bottom

Note:Front Servo

Controls Rudder

BHR1/32" PlywoodBattery Hook

Reinforcement

BH1/8" Lite-PlyBattery Hook

’Z’ Bend

Receiver

FMA M5

NG1

NG2 HS-45HB

NOTE: SIDE VIEW IS SHOWN WITHLEFT SIDE REMOVED FOR CLARITY


AH 1/32" Laser-CutPlywood

Aileron Control Horns

Optional1-1/2" Main Wheels &1/16" Music Wire Leg

H51/16" Balsa

HatchVertical Side

H81/16" Balsa

Hatch Top

FS3

FF7

FF41/8" Balsa

ST1/8" Lite-Ply Servo Tray

MM11/16" Balsa

Motor Mount

MM21/16" PlywoodMotor Mount

#2 SheetMetal Screw


MM31/16" Balsa

Motor Mount

MM5 & MM61/16" PlywoodMotor Mount

FFD

8-32 Nylon Bolt

1/16" DowelFor Balance Point

Hatch Magnets

H91/16" Balsa

Hatch MagnetHolder

FB2

MGB

MGS3

Note"Shape/Sand Main

Gear Struts

MGS1 & MGS2MGB

FS2 FF8

FT2FT3

FB5

FF6

N1N2

N3N4

N5N6


FF3

FF2FSD

FF5 FF7

MM31/16" Balsa

Motor MountMM5 & MM61/16" PlywoodMotor Mount

.032 Music WirePush Rod

MGS1, MGS2& MGS3

WA 3/32" Laser-Cut BalsaWing Aileron - Build Up-Side-Down

Over Plans

AR13/32" Balsa

AR23/32" Balsa

AR33/32" Balsa

AR43/32" Balsa

FS2

VS1

R1

R2

R3

R4

R5

R6

VS2

FF9

FF10

FT4

FB6RH

1/32" PlywoodRudder Control Horn

EH1/32" Plywood

Elevator Control Horn


Note:Bevel Bottom of

Stabilizer

NOTE: TOP VIEW IS SHOWN WITHBATTERY HATCH, FUSELAGE TOP AND

WING REMOVED FOR CLARITY

RH1/32" Plywood

Rudder Control Horn

EH1/32" Plywood


Note:Bevel Left Side

of Rudder

Control Throws (Each Direction)Control Normal HighElevator: 3/8" 1/2"Rudder: 5/8" 3/4"Ailerons: 1/4" 3/8"

ED1/32" Plywood

Elevator Doubler

E1

E5

E8

S3

S2

S1

EJ1/8" Sq. Balsa

ElevatorJoiner

ED1/32" Plywood

Elevator DoublerOn Bottom

E6

E7

E4

E2

E3

AR13/32" Balsa

AR43/32" Balsa

AS3/32" BalsaAileron Spar



8-32 Nylon Nut

FF6

FS3

FF41/8" Balsa

FB11/16" Balsa

Fuselage Bottom

FB31/16" Balsa

Fuselage Bottom

FB4

H21/16" BalsaHatch Deck

FF5

Du-BroMicro E/Z Link

HS-45HB

HS-4

5HB

Go-Go Dancer - PLAN 21M O D E L S

WR13/32" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR21/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR43/32" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR21/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR21/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR21/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR31/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR31/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WR31/16" Balsa

Wing Rib

WT3/32" Balsa

Wing Tip

WLE - 1/4" Sq. Balsa Wing Leading Edge Note: shape leading edge to blend with rib profile

WCS 3/32" Laser-Cut BalsaWing Center Spar

WTS 3/32" x 1/4" Balsa StickWing Top Spar


1/8" BalsaScrap To Center

Wing on FuselageTES 1/16" Laser-Cut Balsa

Trailing Edge SparWTE 1/8" x 1/4" Balsa Stick

Wing Trailing EdgeWTEJ 1/16" Laser-Cut Plywood

Wing Trailing Edge Joiner

WLE - 1/4" Sq. Balsa Wing Leading Edge


WSJ 1/16" PlywoodWing Spar Joiner

WR13/32" Balsa

Wing Rib

Note:Bevel Bottom of Ailerons

WTE 1/8" x 1/4"Wing Trailing Edge WTEJ 1/16"

PlywoodWing TrailingEdge Joiner

TES 1/16" BalsaWing Trailing Edge

WCS 3/32" BalsaWing Center Spar

WTS 3/32" x 1/4"Balsa Wing

Top Spar



WSJ1/16"

PlywoodWing Spar

Joiner

WLE - 1/4" Sq. BalsaWing Leading Edge

Note: shape leading edge to blend with rib profile

WBS 1/16" x 1/4" Balsa StickWing Bottom Spar

WBS 1/16" x 1/4"Balsa Wing

Bottom Spar

Go-Go Dancer - Sport Park Flyer Electric R/C AircraftDesigned and Drawn by Steven E. Pauley ¥ ' 2005, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Wing Span: 26" Length: 25.6" Wing Area: 163 sq. in. Weight: 6.6 oz. Wing Loading: 5.8 oz. per sq. ft.2 Cells 640mAh LiPoly (7.4v) @ 4.2 amps. Total Input Watts: 30 or 73 watts per lb.

Motor: GoBrushless V1 16T Outrunner and Thunderbird 9 Controller Prop: 6" x 4" ElectricTransmitter: 4 Channel Receiver: Micro 4 Channel (Berg 4L) Servos: 3 Hitec HS-45HB Rev.#1.4 9/14/2007

AH1/32" Plywood

Aileron Control HornN1, N2, N3, N4,N5 & N6

Balsa Nose BlockLaminations

Optional1" Nose

Wheel and1/16" Music

Wire Leg

LiPoly Pack2S1P 640 mAh

P1, P2, P3Balsa Pilot

LaminationsH1

1/16" BalsaHatch Deck

H31/16" BalsaHatch Back

H41/16" BalsaHatch Side

H6

H71/16" BalsaHatch Front

.015 Mylar Fold Mylar CanopyOver Hatch Frame and Glue -

Trim Flush with Edge When Dry

FS11/16" Balsa

Fuselage Side

FF1

FF2

FF3FSD

FT1

H101/16" Balsa

Hatch Tab

FB21/16" Balsa

Fuselage Bottom

Note:Front Servo

Controls Rudder

BHR1/32" PlywoodBattery Hook

Reinforcement

BH1/8" Lite-PlyBattery Hook

’Z’ Bend

Receiver

FMA M5

NG1

NG2 HS-45HB

NOTE: SIDE VIEW IS SHOWN WITHLEFT SIDE REMOVED FOR CLARITY


AH 1/32" Laser-CutPlywood

Aileron Control Horns

Optional1-1/2" Main Wheels &1/16" Music Wire Leg

H51/16" Balsa

HatchVertical Side

H81/16" Balsa

Hatch Top

FS3

FF7

FF41/8" Balsa

ST1/8" Lite-Ply Servo Tray

MM11/16" Balsa

Motor Mount


#2 SheetMetal Screw


MM31/16" Balsa

Motor Mount

MM5 & MM61/16" PlywoodMotor Mount

FFD

8-32 Nylon Bolt


Hatch Magnets

H91/16" Balsa

Hatch MagnetHolder

FB2

MGB

MGS3

Note"Shape/Sand Main

Gear Struts

MGS1 & MGS2MGB

FS2 FF8

FT2FT3

FB5

FF6

N1N2

N3N4

N5N6


FF3

FF2FSD

FF5 FF7

MM31/16" Balsa

Motor MountMM5 & MM61/16" PlywoodMotor Mount


MGS1, MGS2& MGS3

WA 3/32" Laser-Cut BalsaWing Aileron - Build Up-Side-Down

Over Plans

AR13/32" Balsa

AR23/32" Balsa

AR33/32" Balsa

AR43/32" Balsa

FS2

VS1

R1

R2

R3

R4

R5

R6

VS2

FF9

FF10

FT4

FB6RH

1/32" PlywoodRudder Control Horn

EH1/32" Plywood



Note:Bevel Bottom of

Stabilizer

NOTE: TOP VIEW IS SHOWN WITHBATTERY HATCH, FUSELAGE TOP AND

WING REMOVED FOR CLARITY

RH1/32" Plywood

Rudder Control Horn

EH1/32" Plywood


Note:Bevel Left Side

of Rudder

Control Throws (Each Direction)Control Normal HighElevator: 3/8" 1/2"Rudder: 5/8" 3/4"Ailerons: 1/4" 3/8"

ED1/32" Plywood

Elevator Doubler

E1

E5

E8

S3

S2

S1

EJ1/8" Sq. Balsa

ElevatorJoiner

ED1/32" Plywood

Elevator DoublerOn Bottom

E6

E7

E4

E2

E3

AR13/32" Balsa

AR43/32" Balsa




8-32 Nylon Nut

FF6

FS3

FF41/8" Balsa

FB11/16" Balsa

Fuselage Bottom

FB31/16" Balsa

Fuselage Bottom

FB4

H21/16" BalsaHatch Deck

FF5

Du-BroMicro E/Z Link

HS-45HB

HS-4

5HB

Go-Go Dancer - INSTRUCTION MANUAL 22M O D E L S

ElectroFlying, Inc. http://www.electroflying.com

2547 83rd Court North, Minneapolis, MN 55444 763-560-5529 • [email protected] © 2005, ElectroFlying, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Rev. #1.3 – 9/14/2007

Documents

Sport Park Flyer Electric R/C Aircraft - Home of ElectroFlying Models