Starter solenoid, positive battery cable removed

Close up view of the wiring to the solenoid – 16amp fuse holder in the bottom right protects the Dynastarter

Original Michelin tire

Original alongside the new bigger tires for the rear

Steel radial at 35psi softens the ride

Front brake shoes – note the leading shoe on the left has a longer brake pad surface than the rear.

Spray lubricant to assist in bolt removal

Brake hose retaining clip from the front wheel

Looks clean after 28 years – NOT! - seized from moisture, broke the bleeder valve trying to remove it.

Wheel cylinders – new and old – save the bleed screw if it’s okay, might need a spare.

Seized tight.

Use a screwdriver to drive the grease cap loose, just keep spinning the spindle as you drive it off.

The grease is like the day it left the factory. Note how rusty the outside of the hub is. Sitting on damp ground.

Driving home a wheel stud that was loose, through the hole for the brake cylinder.

Plumbing department! Loosen every connection before trying to dismantle. Brake pump is also seized.

Brake pump, modulating valve and piping removed and stored for now.

Floor area is now ready to clean

Scrape clean, wire brush and vacuum and the front steering column is ready to paint. That’s dirty brake fluid in the bucket from the front brake line when I removed it.

Paint it with a small brush, using Tremclad. Don’t worry about painting the shock with the brush. Too difficult!

Use a spray can of Tremclad black gloss to get between the coil spring to paint the shock.

Spray the shock from all angles and it works really well. I prefer a brush on everything else, lots more paint to cover.

Ready for the new brake cylinder

New brake cylinder bolted in place – note the gap on the top of the cylinder where it meets the backplate.

A bit of flexible caulking will cure the gap. This was originally done at the factory.

Seal that gap with the flexible caulking

Grease the hub and the cap and wheel lugs to protect them, works better than paint – use a small brush.

Install turned and painted brake drum and secure it with the retaining ring

Front wheel has been painted using Tremclad Aluminum paint. I’ll touch up the wheel nuts after all is finished.

I’ll hook up the front brake line after bodywork and painting are finished and I start reassembly.

Courtesy of Domineco the next few slides deal with changing the oil - here’s the drain plug

He drained absolute sludge from his recently acquired machine. Previous owner obviously didn’t change oil.

Used oil from one of my machines during restoration, and I thought this oil was overdue to be changed!

Domineco (he’s in Italy) will have to change oil frequently to try and clean out the sludge. Engine should be really hot to allow the oil to drain freely.

Tappo magnetico (it’s the magnetic drain plug). Those are metal filings from the engine collected on the magnet.

This is what it looks like after it’s been cleaned. It should be cleaned every time the oil is changed. It will tell you a story of what’s going on in your engine/gearbox.

Tapo superiore (oil filler/dipstick) marked on the bottom for minimum/maximum oil level. About 900ml of SAE 40 oil required – NEVER use a multigrade oil – EVER – got that?

Cambio olio. Improvise! If you don’t have a funnel with a long spout just roll up a piece of paper, form a funnel and pour away! And, it’s disposable, and you won’t spill oil on a hot motor! Grazie, Domineco