18 ANIMALS’ VOICE

The beauty of the caballos de pasos

... (this page) a horse and rider in

traditional gear and (opposite page) the

“pride and joy”, of Raphael’s stud.

ANIMALS’ VOICE 19

By Josie Dale

Our cheerful guide cesar collects my husband Alistair and me from our hotel in lima, Peru.

“hola. My name is spelt c-e-s-a-r but please say it like the Julius one.”

With Spanish limited to “hola” and “gracias”, we reciprocate his welcome.

fifteen Texans, on the last day of their holiday, join us to visit a paso (stepping) horse stud 30km from lima. Bumping along in the bus it becomes apparent that our fellow travellers are less enthusiastic than us. “George,” whines blonde Marion, “there’re horses back home. We should’ve gone shopping in lima.” Several female heads nod in unison.

Three-metre-high adobe walls enclose the hacienda ahead. “for security,” says cesar. “Bad people steal.”

The contrast between poor farmland outside

lima and this beautifully manicured property is astonishing. Inside the walls, an immaculate half-acre lawn is bordered by a large Spanish-style adobe house, whitewashed stables, bougainvillea-covered pergolas and horse yards.

cesar introduces the stud-master: “raphael speaks english and he will tell you about the horses. his family have been breeding and exhibiting pasos for over 60 years.”

raphael’s passion and respect for his beloved caballos de paso (stepping horses) is evident as he explains that they are reputedly the smoothest riding horse in the world and relatively rare – about 25,000 worldwide. The original horses arrived with the Spanish conquest of Peru and the breed is close to 500 years old.

The Spaniards established vast cotton and

Stepping out

20 ANIMALS’ VOICE

birth but are not ridden until they are two-year-olds. even then, they are not introduced to a bit until their third birthday.

raphael indicates a beautiful filly crossing the lawn. “She’s only nine months old and we intend to retain her for exhibition and breeding purposes.”

full of exuberance, she nudges her handler affectionately before tossing her head and breaking into playful skips. Despite her youth, the unique paso gait is immediately apparent. even bored Marion is entranced: “Aw, George, she’s so sweet.”

A bay mare on a lunge rein demonstrates the elegant, smooth stepping movement of the breed. She gaits proudly alongside her handler, ears pricked, confidently watching the spectators.

Two chalans approach, sitting motionless as their mounts wheel and pace around the arena, displaying their spectacular leg action or termino (the front lower legs roll to the outside

sugar plantations in north Peru. In the south, sandy desert and steep mountains provided other challenges. Both areas required hardy, smooth-gaited horses with good temperaments, capable of long-distance journeys.

Because Peru did not develop a livestock-based economy, there was no need to breed horses as speedy or agile as in other parts of South America, such as Argentina.

Through strict selection, the best horses laid the foundation for today’s breed. Small to medium-sized, paso horses stand 14 to 15 hands high. Their gait resembles an amble. They pace, but, unlike trotting breeds, they permanently brace the ground. Their centre of gravity has little upward thrust and the resultant smooth, horizontal swing means no trotting movement and, therefore, no posting – ideal for endurance work and riders with back problems.

They have long been appreciated around the coastal areas of lima and

Trujillo. locals speak of “paso horses” and “ordinary horses” (all others). The Peruvian government has recognised the importance of the breed by declaring them Patrimonio cultural (cultural heritage) of Peru. remarkable in a country that, sadly, condones bull and cockfighting.

We meet the chalans (riders) wearing traditional outfits of white Stetson-like hat, white shirt and trousers, boots, and spurs (made of silver or stainless steel). They sometimes wear a poncho made of linen and alpaca wool.

Gear is hand-made by local artisans. A halter, blinkers and reins may take a year to make from untanned hand-plaited leather. Saddles, of engraved or carved leather adorned with silver, are covered with sampedrano pellon, made of twisted strands of dyed lamb wool. The distinctive box stirrups, of carved wood embellished with silver or nickel, remind me of the leather boot safety stirrups we used as children.

The foals are handled daily from

Our welcoming committee at the hacienda.

ANIMALS’ VOICE 21

during the stride forward). Although the horses willingly perform the routine, their pride and arrogance is obvious.

raphael explains that every purebred Peruvian paso horse inherits the stepping action, and foals gait alongside their dams within a few hours of birth. exhibition horses are not shod to ensure their movement is entirely natural.

The most important annual show, Nacional el Paso, is held at nearby Mamacona each April. It’s a major event for horsemen and spectators alike.

“Now our pride and joy,” beams raphael. “A promising stallion and luckily he loves to work.”

The handler struggles to settle a spirited bay as he flicks his impossibly long, thick, black mane and forelock from side to side. his dark, intelligent eyes inspect us curiously before he pirouettes away with a snort.

finally, raphael mounts a striking palomino and, together with his 11-year-old daughter, begins a marinera. The traditional romantic couples dance, often involving a paso horse, was renamed in honour of the marines who fought the chilean military in the War of the Pacific.

A chalan leads his mare toward the stable and I indicate I wish to pat her. “Si,” he says. She gently nuzzles my hand and her handler gestures toward the saddle with a smile.

The smell of horse-sweat and leather evokes wonderful memories of long days spent riding the tussocky hills of the Mackenzie high country. I’m on the wrong side of 65 and haven’t ridden for 30 years, but how can I resist? Alistair looks on anxiously, mentally reviewing our travel insurance.

No problem, the lateral four-beat gait of the mare stepping around the arena is so smooth I could hold a glass of water without spilling a drop, even as she increases speed. heaven on earth!

Before boarding the bus for lima, we inspect the spotless stables. It’s hard not to compare the horses’ conditions with those of squatters eking out a living in the arid hills above lima. Wages are relatively low, More than 44 per cent of Peruvians live in poverty and the average annual income is less than $uS4300. According to cesar, enthusiasts pay $1500 for a Peruvian

paso weanling and a top exhibition horse can fetch upwards of $50,000.

cesar explains that during the 1960s major breeding operations were decimated by harsh governmental agrarian reforms. large farms were broken up and many of the best horses were exported to the united States. This resulted in attempts to “Americanise” the breed to the extent that visiting Peruvian horsemen often did not recognise American-bred horses as pasos.

for several years the Peruvian paso

horse seemed destined to disappear in its homeland, but thanks to the dedication of an elite group of Peruvian horsemen, including raphael and his family, the past three decades have seen a reversal of fortunes.

collectively, breeders continue to ensure the best Peruvian paso bloodlines are preserved. The government has assisted by passing laws severely restricting the export of champion horses to other countries.

Thankfully, the future of the Peruvian paso horse is in good hands.

Raphael and his 11-year-old daughter perform a dance called the marinera.

Exuberant nine-month-old filly with her handler.