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Stories Through the Lens Readings
About Portrait Photography: Development of PortraitureSince the beginning of time, people have been using portraiture to capture the identity of their
subject. Throughout history there are portraits of varying mediums, styles and purposes, revealing
the growing relationship between the artist and the model. The functions of these portraits ranges
from personal to religious, military, political, funerary, marital or group represenation. Examining the
roots of portraiture creates a clear connection between past intentions and present developments.
The earliest portraits of Upper and Lower Egypt date back to 3100 B.C., revealing the generalized
appearance of deified pharaohs, military leaders, and nobles in plastic materials such as slate or
granite. These carved busts most often carried a funerary function, reminding the living of the dead
and commemorating the life achievements of the deceased. The simplified representations of this
period lack each sitter's individual attributes, instead conveying their severity and authority frozen in
time. A more naturalistic and personalized approach to portraiture evolved in the New Kingdom of
Egypt during the mid-1300s B.C., characterized by sculptors' close attention to each model's
features and flaws.
During the Medieval period, early Christian artists (3rd-7th centuries A.D.) utilized the medium of
mosaic to illustrate portraits of the deceased. Using tiny pieces of glass and stone, artists created
decorative portraits in the walls of churches and monasteries. While highly detailed in the texture
and arrangement of the miniscule building blocks, these representations did not exhibit detailedindividual traits of the people they portrayed. Instead, they were highly stylized in the flat, frontal
focus and simplified features of the face.
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Nofretete, Nues Museum
Portraiture Artists
During the Renaissance period (1400s-1500s), portraiture experienced dramatic transformation and
growth. Artists such as Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Raphael, and Titian brought portraiture to new
heights with their highly realistic and beautiful renderings of human subjects. Portraits took on a life
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of their own, becoming living stories. This shift was the result of the artists' fascination with nature
and their appreciation of ancient Greek and Roman art. The complexity of each Renaissance
portrait can be seen in the choice of expression, pose, clothing, and background. At that time, small
medals with portraits nestled inside of them were highly favored by Italian society, while sculpted
busts and full-length portraits also increased in popularity. The relationship between the artist and
the sitter became much more intimate. This intimacy can be seen in the amount of detail and
attention that the artist paid to the subject and also in the humanity evident in each artwork.
Baroque art of the 17th century took portraiture even further in its study of human expression. Dutch
painter Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn closely examined the way the human face functions to
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reveal emotion. Rembrandt created numerous self-portraits, each unique in its own way. The artist
utilized portraiture as a medium to explore his identity, role, and artistic performance. In each self-
portrait he is performing for the audience, trying on a different costume and revealing a different side
of his playful and mysterious personality. In Rembrandt's work there is a strong bond between the
artist and the viewer, as he invites us to explore his facial expression and body language, telling us
secrets about his life. For example, in The Standard-Bearer(1636), the artist is formally posed,
holding a standard and dressed in an elaborate costume with fur and stitching.
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Rembrandt, along with many other Dutch artists, was a master of group portraits, which were very
popular at that time. People of power and fame relied on portraiture to capture and celebrate their
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accomplishments and important meetings. What made these group portraits especially modern and
complex was the interaction between the characters within them. People were shown conversing,
gesturing, and laughing as though the moment was frozen in time. Each painting was equivalent to a
camera snapshot. Portraits became symbols of power, as well as documents of marriage, religious
celebration, and personal contemplation. Many other styles and approaches to portraiture followed.
The Realist style of the mid-19th century portrayed people going about their everyday chores.
Paintings began to reveal the reality of the life of the poor, something that was not extensively
illustrated in previous periods. At this time, caricature portraits also became prevalent, voicing the
views of artists on politics, culture, and society.
In the late 19th century even more intimate approaches to painting developed. Expressive, colorful
strokes that captured the sitters' emotions defined the Impressionist style. The gestural quality of
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mark-making and the attention to the models' facial expressions showed the close relationships
between artists and models.
Silhouette & Miniature Portraits
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Up until the 18th century, a portrait was regarded as a highly valued commodity that only wealthy
people could afford to purchase. Portraiture was a subjective form of art making, where the product
did not necessarily resemble its original.
However, during the 18th century, less expensive options to traditional portraiture became more
widely available to the public. The first of these options was the miniature portrait. These tiny
representations were first painted on vellum with watercolors and later evolved into more permanent
works painted with enamel on ivory. Due to their relative inexpensiveness, middle class people could
commission a miniature of themselves or their loved ones to carry in their pockets as keepsakes.Miniature portraits had several functions, including supporting romantic relationships when given as
love tokens between lovers separated by distance. A betrothed couple could send one another their
portraits prior to meeting at the wedding.
An even more affordable development in portraiture was the silhouette, which involved tracing one's
profile. This technique took its name after tienne de Silhouette (1709-67), a French finance minister
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who worked for Louis XV. During his tenure, he was despised by the French working class people
for his merciless tax policies. He was more interested in his hobby of cutting out paper profiles of the
elite than he was in the well-being of the French people. Though he was not the first artist to create
this type of portraiture, his high-profile reputation contributed to its nomenclature. Silhouette portraits
were crafted by projecting bright light behind a sheet of white paper and carefully tracing the shadow
cast by the sitter. The final outline was then minimized, cut out of black paper, and pasted onto a
small card. Successful depiction of the model depended on the skill of the craftsman.
Photography: A New Means of Portraiture
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In the 1800s, the invention of photography brought dramatic transformation to the world of
portraiture, opening doors to many inexpensive possibilities of recording one's natural appearance
and leaving miniature portrait painters out of jobs. The basic idea behind the process photographywas to produce a chemical reaction by combining light with a highly sensitized surface. Early
techniques such as the daguerreotype and the calotype relied on a number of factors in order to
produce an effective image. Chemical solvents, bulky cameras, and most importantly patience,
played a large role in photography. Weather was also one of the elements that controlled each photo
shoot since most studios were located on rooftops of buildings. Along with these early challenges,
cameras were only sensitive to certain colors. In addition, hidden metal devices, such as clamps,
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were used to keep the sitter's head in place. Facial expressions had to remain perfectly still while the
picture was being taken, which could last as long as eight minutes. Another problem that early
photographers often encountered was eye blinking. To solve that inconvenience, in some portraits
people were posed with their sides or back to the camera in order to conceal their eyes. A few
zealous photographers were willing to take extreme measures, such as using opium gas to relax
their models to ensure a successful portrait.
Despite these difficulties, portrait photography met the needs of many, providing a completely lifelike
resemblance and carrying out a range of useful functions. With the rise of the Industrial Revolution in
the beginning of the 19th century, occupational photographers educated the public about the new
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advancements in technology. Closely observe this daguerreotype, Women with Choir Books. The
two young women are blankly staring at the camera while holding their choir books. The
photographer did not focus on their personalities, but emphasized their profession or hobby. Their
personalities are somewhat conveyed through their patterned clothing. The dramatic backdrop of the
countryside creates the illusion of the two women being photographed outdoors.
Similar to Renaissance paintings, portraits of important political officials commemorated their
accomplishments. Portraits for personal use consisted not only of images of the living but also of the
dead, called postmortems. It was common to photograph family members right after death, dressing
them in their best clothes and posing them in front of the camera in order to capture their lifelike
appearance. This was done so living family members would have a reminder of their loved ones
accomplishments in life.
Styles of Portrait Photography
With the growing popularity of portrait photography, the invention of new techniques, and the
improvement of old tricks of the trade, photographers became more and more competitive in the
business. For the most part, their products were not based on quality, but quantity. Racing to create
as many portraits as possible in order to profit financially, photographers failed to pay attention to
their models' individual characteristics. Most portraits looked alike due to dreary backdrops of
familiar furniture pieces, velvet curtains, and faux architectural details. Even occupational portraits
were anonymous in their presentation; the backgrounds set up was nothing more than promotional
props.
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Despite these drawbacks, there were some fascinating individuals who constantly challenged the
photography medium at the time, paying close attention to the mood and emotions of their models.
In a way they were similar to painters in their approach. They listened closely to their clients,
provided flattering lighting, and used various closeups of the face to truly express models
personalities. Alfred Stieglitz (1864-1946) was the leader of this movement, which became known as
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Pictorialism, due to its artistic qualities. Pictorialists recognized photography as a form of art and
therefore applied various painterly techniques to alter their photographs in order to make them
resemble paintings. These additive revisions allowed Pictorialists to have more control over their
images and ensure carefully rendered artworks that differed from the regular snapshots of the day.
In many ways, Pictorialist images resembled Impressionist artworks in their soft strokes and blurry
edges.
In the beginning of the 1900s, Stieglitz and many of his followers abandoned the styles of
pictorialism, focusing their attention on straight photography, a style that emphasized the crucial
importance of truthful or unaltered photographs. These images were completely untouched,
presenting the natural appearance of an image. Straight photographers explored the essence of
their subject, paying attention to their mood and facial expression. Straight photography took many
paths, one of which resulted in documentary photography, a straight style that examined historical or
authentic events in life. These images served as proofs or documents of the way people lived and
how their surroundings impacted them. One of the best known documentary photographers was
Dorothea Lange, who traveled to many parts of America to capture the hardships of the GreatDepression, World War II internment camps, and other horrific events in history.
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Other styles of photography continued to develop, such as photojournalism, fashion, and advertising.
Many artists crossed these boundaries, combining them in unique ways and shattering the
stereotypes of what photography means or represents. One such artist was Diane Arbus, who
photographed outcasts of society by getting to know her models and using a specific, personal style.
Viewing portraiture that spans a long period of time allows us to better understand and appreciate
the relationship between the photographer and the model. While this connection was tenuous during
the invention of photography, with time it became more intense and meaningful. As previously
mentioned, many photographers began viewing their work as art, which they refined and cultivated.
This growing passion for photography and understanding people reflects the work of pictorialists, but
especially straight photographers who wanted to tell the truth about the people they captured on film.
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The Role of Value & Teture
Similar evolution and transformation can be seen in the range of values and textures used in portraitphotography. While early works contained a limited range of value due to the poorly developed
techniques, photographers discovered new and innovative methods over time that allowed them to
pay particular attention to shadow and light and use these components to their advantage, creating
certain types of moods and reactions. For instance, pictorialists manipulated their images to achieve
an effect of simplicity by combining large dark areas with bright details. Shading around figures also
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added to their goal of making photographs resemble paintings or drawings. Furthermore, shading
contributed to the romantic and poetic quality of their portraits.
Straight photographers focused much more on the sharp and natural aspects of life, attempting to
portray exactly what was before them.
This approach to life and their models is prevalent in each of their works where a variety of values
and textures describe the sitter. It is crucial to remember that despite similarities in style, every artist
possesses his or her own approach to portrait photography, choosing to shoot pictures during
different times of day and using various frames, angles, and environments. Regardless of subject
matter, every portrait reflects the ideas and feelings of its author.
!mpa"t of Portrait Photography: Portrait PhotographyTo#ay
Portraiture has come a long way from the time when heavy cameras, awkward contraptions, and
messy chemicals were essential to create a successful photograph. It is amazing how much portrait
photography has evolved aesthetically and conceptually. Today, photography has many functions
and outlets, but now anyone and everyone can be a photographer. Similar to our forefathers, we
chronicle and examine our lives through photography, observing those who are close to us.
However, before making our own artwork, it is crucial to understand and appreciate the work of
artists who have made a difference in the world of portrait photography. Even today, Stieglitz, Lange,
DeCarava, and Arbus inspire contemporary artists with their bold, innovative, and keen observations
of people. The relationship between them and the individuals they photographed remains alive in
each picture. Just from glancing at their portraits we feel like voyeurs spying on a private spectacle.
Among the many artists who have followed in the footsteps of documentary photographers like
Dorothea Lange is Sebastiao Salgado, a Brazilian photojournalist, Salgado has dedicated himself to
documenting the lives of people all over the world, including the victims of war, hunger, famine,
draught, poverty, and violence. As a special representative of UNICEF, Salgado's goal is to inform
and educate the public about what is often unseen and unnoticed, opening our eyes to reality and
calling for change in humanity. Among many powerful photo essays, Salgado explores the lives of
people affected by the drought of Northern Africa, the world's manual work laborers, and homelesschildren and families. Salgado explains,
"My hope is that, as individuals, as groups, as societies, we can pause and reflect on the human
condition at the turn of the millennium. In its rawest form, individualism remains a prescription for
catastrophe. We have to create a new regimen of coexistence."
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Each photograph that Salgado creates initiates a physical reaction, because it is impossible to
remain unchanged after witnessing heartbreaking stories of injustice and struggle, as well as those
of strength and hope. The following portrait of a young girl from Mopeia is part of Children Today:
Men & Women of the New Century, a chapter of Salgado's book Migrations: Humanity in Transition.
In this touching portrait, Salgado documents the lives of children who have been separated from
their parents, taking shelter in refugee camps. From observing this photograph and many others one
can see the trust and understanding between the children and Salgado. This child is not frightened,
but boldly looks at the camera. Salgado continues to travel and bring attention to injustice in the
world, calling for understanding, participation, and change.
Another contemporary artist who has challenged the concept of portrait photography is Cindy
Sherman. While her work is completely different from Salgado's, it also serves as an observation of
our society as a whole and its progression throughout time. An American photographer and
filmmaker, Sherman uses herself as the subject of her work to explore and analyze the stereotypes
of femininity and art of the past and present. Similar to Rembrandt's self-portraits where he
concealed his identity in different costumes, Sherman adopts the persona of fictional characters.However, unlike Rembrandt's paintings, Sherman's images are not self-portraits because she
chooses to represent symbolic personages, not actual individuals. Female stereotypes such as the
housewife, the prostitute, the actress, the librarian, and others are examined through photography
exposed and mocking the present conventions and superficiality. The artist uses herself to examine
the role of women throughout time. In each photograph or film still, Sherman metamorphoses into a
different character using bright lighting, wigs, costumes, prosthetics, and unusual back drops. She
also leaves them untitled or numbers them to emphasize their anonymity. Her work can be viewed
as performance art, since in each film still she acts out a story, role playing and performing for the
audience. For instance, in Untitled Film Still #13, Sherman portrays a sexy librarian, contradicting
her conservative outfit with a seductive pose. There is something appealing, but at the same time
disturbing, in Sherman's work which is reminiscent of Arbus's photography in its awkward poses and
strange compositions. As in Arbus's images, the "otherness" is also investigated and present in
Sherman's film stills. Sherman demonstrates her relationship to the subject matter, rejecting beauty
and embracing female strength and power. Her work demonstrates her relationship to the ideas
represented, but also to us as the viewers. We are lured into her secret world of stories and visceral
imagination.
There are many other photographers that continue to explore the meaning of portrait photography,
looking back on the people who were the first to do so as sources of empowerment and inspiration.
The power of portraiture continues to grow, becoming an essential vehicle for communication.
Through facial expressions and body language we are able to converse with one another, regardless
of our culture, language, or location. Today, portrait photography is present everywhere. Television,
magazines, and other forms of advertisement are just a few outlets for portraiture, but the
communication possibilities continue to grow. Interacting with one another using computer and
phone cameras has become the new way of bringing emotions to life. Regardless of the source, it is
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important to remember the roots of portraiture and appreciate the work of those who selflessly
sacrificed their lives so that the stories of others could be shared.
!nfluential Portrait Photographers
While the portrait photography of Alfred Stieglitz, Dorothea Lange, Roy DeCarava and Diane Arbus
addresses diverse subject matter and meets different goals, the emotional state of the models truly
stands out in each, reflecting their relationships to the photographers. The work of these artists
demonstrates that portraiture can be approached in multiple ways. Stieglitz, Lange, DeCarava and
Arbus have truly challenged established ideas of portrait photography, dedicating their lives to
exploring its potential and inscribing into it new meaning and function.