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Styling Hair NaturallyRevolymer Personal Care
Rocio Perez, Julie Bacon, Neil Kilcullen2nd September 2016
© Revolymer 2016
Outline
RevCare NE 100S Polyitaconic Acid (NK)
Characteristics of Hair Styling Agents (NK)
Efficacy Studies (RP)High Humidity Curl RetentionCombabilityCurl StiffnessAnti-Frizz
Summary & Conclusions (NK)
2
RevCare NE 100SPolyitaconic Acid
3
© Revolymer 2016
Polyitaconic Acid: Manufacture
Method of Polymerisation (US 7,920,676)Polymers are prepared under selected conditions of partial neutralisationHigh conversion rate
Continuous Production (US 8,420,758)Exothermic heat from the polymerisation reactionEndothermic heat transfer from solvent (water) evaporation
6
0
10
20
30
40
< 80% yield > 95% yield
Better Polymerization Rate and Yield
Pfizer1960
Patent
Rohm & Haas1993
Patent
Itaconix2008
Patent
Numberof Hours
Characteristics of Hair Styling Agents
7
© Revolymer 2016
Characteristics of Hair Styling Agents
FunctionBuild inter-fibre forces to maintain the desired configuration or shape
Consumer ExpectationsStyle held firmly over extended periods of time and exposure toenvironmental conditions
RequirementsUniform applicationClear layerHair appears natural and glossyHair feels natural - not tacky, not too stiffHair easily combed (wet and dry)Product readily removed during washing
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Efficacy Studies
High Humidity Curl Retention
12
© Revolymer 2016
Observations & Conclusions
In a high humidity environment polymer films will absorbwater. Films that are too hygroscopic will over plasticise andfail.
Tresses treated with RevCare NE 100S retain theirconfiguration demonstrating a resistance to overplasticisation and weld failure
RevCare NE 100S outperforms the PVP/VA benchmark and isat least as effective as leading synthetic styling polymers
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Combability
16
© Revolymer 2016
Comb Resistance: Method
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Tresses are wetted
Product is applied
Tresses air-driedovernight
Force required to combthe tresses is measuredusing a hair combing rigattached to a textureanalyser
© Revolymer 2016
Comb Resistance: Results (First Cycle)
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0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
0 20 40 60 80 100
Forc
e(g
)
Comb Travel Distance (mm)
RevCare NE 100S
PVP/VA
VP/Acrylate Copolymer
VA/Maleate/AcrylateCopolymerAcrylamide/AcrylateCopolymerNo treatment
© Revolymer 2016
Comb Resistance: Results (Second Cycle)
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0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
0 20 40 60 80 100
Forc
e(g
)
Comb Travel Distance (mm)
RevCare NE 100S
PVP/VA
VP/Acrylate Copolymer
VA/Maleate/AcrylateCopolymerAcrylamide/AcrylateCopolymerNo treatment
© Revolymer 2016
Observations & Conclusions
The force required to comb styled hair depends on how thefibres interact styled hair requires a larger force
The greater the degree of welding (seam welds, number ofspot welds) the larger the combing force
VP/Acrylate copolymer predominantly seam welds firstcycle highest force, second cycle notable reduction inthe combing force
VP/Maleate/Acrylate copolymer welds more flexiblylower force differential between 1st and 2nd cycles
RevCare NE 100S and PVP/VA weld lightly comb force islow and tends towards no treatment
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Curl Stiffness
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© Revolymer 2016
Style Flexibility: Results
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020406080
100120140160180200
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Forc
e(g
)
Probe Travel Distance (mm)
RevCare NE 100S
1st Cycle2nd Cycle3rd Cycle4th Cycle5th Cycle
© Revolymer 2016
Style Flexibility: Results (First Cycle)
24
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1800
0 20 40 60
Forc
e(g
)
Probe Travel Distance (mm)
RevCare NE 100S
PVP/VA
VP/Acrylate Copolymer
VA/Maleate/AcrylateCopolymerAcrylamide/AcrylateCopolymer
© Revolymer 2016
Style Flexibility: Results (Second Cycle)
25
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
0 20 40 60
Forc
e(g
)
Probe Travel Distance (mm)
RevCare NE 100S
PVP/VA
VP/Acrylate Copolymer
VA/Maleate/AcrylateCopolymerAcrylamide/AcrylateCopolymer
© Revolymer 2016
Flexibility Ratios
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
RevCare NE 100S PVP/VA VP/Acrylate VA/Maleate/Acrylate Acrylamide/Acrylate
Area
Und
erth
eCu
rve
C2/C
1
26
© Revolymer 2016
Observations & Conclusions
For styled hair, bending the array exerts forces on thepolymer film leading to some weld failure subsequentbending requires less force
The bending force required gives an indication of theinherent softness of the hold
Differences in forces required in consecutive bending cyclesare an indication of the flexibility of the polymer film
RevCare NE 100S delivers a relatively soft hold and has goodflexibility
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Anti-Frizz
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© Revolymer 2016
Frizz Control: Results
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1 hour
2 hours
3 hours
24 hours
PVP/VA
Acrylamide/AcrlyateRevCare NE 100S
VA/Maleate/Acrylate
VP/Acrylate
Control
© Revolymer 2016
Frizz Control: Image Analysis Ratios
0
0.5
1
1.5
2Re
lativ
eAr
eaof
the
Tres
s
31
© Revolymer 2016
Observations & Conclusions
Hair becomes frizzy owing to hydrogen bonds betweenadjacent fibres being broken
Styling polymers supplement the degree of inter-fibre bonds
This bonding is diminished gradually as the polymer filmhydrates and plasticises
RevCare NE 100S bonds hair lightly but is resistant toplasticisation helping to prevent frizz
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Summary
www.revolymer.com
© Revolymer 2016 37
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