summer 2013 In thIs Issue First Bench 2 SCHOLARSHIPS Awarded › Resources › Documents › ... · both ways, good and bad. Product gets baked earlier and maybe more often. Perhaps

First BenchS C H O L A R S H I P S

Awarded

Volume 21 – Issue 3 summer 2013

In thIs Issue 2 Notes from the Chair

4 Culinary History Hidden Treasures at the Johnson & Wales Culinary Museum

6 Guild News Scholarship Essay Excerpts

8 Greatest Hits 2013 Preferments: Techniques, Process, and Products All About Ciabatta Crafting Breads to fit Your Schedule

17 Classic Artisan Baking Creating Naples-Style Pizza in Your Bakery

20 Guild-Wide Bakery Open House

32 Regional Events Asheville Bread Festival

34 Technical Article Salt-Yeast Baguettes

The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the leading American educational resource for artisan bread bakers. Our mission: to shape the knowledge and skills of the artisan baking community through education. Bread Lines, the newsletter of The Bread Bakers Guild of America, is published four times per year.

See essay excerpts on page 6

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The Earth Sky Time Community Farm in Manchester, VT, participated in the Third Annual Guild-Wide Open House on June 29. This photo was taken at the open house, with the group gathered in front of the bakery’s llopis oven.

Guild-Wide Bakery Open HOuse ••• Page 16 •••

The Guild is pleased to announce that it has awarded the first two Regional events scholarships to Chris Young of the Crema Café and Bakery in seal Beach, CA, and Christopher Wilkins of Independent Baking in Athens, GA.

Young attended “Competition Breads from the sIGeP Cup,” taught by John tredgold at the san Francisco Baking Institute in south san Francisco, CA, on september 14–15. Wilkins attended “Italian holiday Baking,” taught by Biagio settepani at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in tucker, GA, on september 21–22.

excerpts from their scholarship essays are included in this issue on pages 6 and 7.

the primary goal of this new opportunity is to help bench workers get out of the shop and into an educational setting that will enrich their baking knowledge.

Applications for the third scholarship for 2013 are currently being reviewed by the scholarship Committee. We will publish part of the third recipient’s scholarship essay in the next issue of Bread Lines.

{ 2 } t h e b r e a d b a k e r s g u i l d o f a M e r i c a

The seasons are changing. Fall is upon us, and, with it, bakeries are changing gears or gearing up, or most likely both. With vacation season over and old routines falling back into place, sales generally begin to pick up, and opportunities pick up as well. Depending on your location, the farmer’s markets are winding down or just gearing up. Bread is a comfort food, and this is a comforting time of year. Amateurs and professional bakers are getting into full swing on their way to what is for most the two busiest times of the year: the week of Thanksgiving and the week of Christmas. It’s a great time of year for seasonal opportunities. Perhaps this includes adding fall produce into breads, such as pumpkins or figs, or featuring heartier breads that match the cool weather, and creating fall menus or holiday specialties that people are longing to enjoy.

Seasonal spikes also bring seasonal consumers and seasonal spending habits. There is no larger audience than the one that will show up during the holidays. Your reach goes beyond the actual buyers, reaching a wider audience made up of those who receive your baked goods as gifts and guests at the dinners where your bread will be served, in homes or restaurants.

In addition to your regulars, you will have many new customers, some that you may not see any other time of the year. And they aren’t buying just one or two things. Instead of needing one loaf of bread or one dozen rolls, they are likely buying two or three dozen or more. While this is great for business, it is a challenge to maintain the same quality during these busy days that you do during the slow and steady times. This is the same type of challenge bakeries face as they grow. Space gets tighter, equipment feels inadequate, and it feels as though there are never enough hours in the day to get everything finished.

I always feel the busiest time of year pulls the baker in more directions than ever and forces you to be at the top of your game. Most bakeries don’t have equipment or capacity sitting on the sidelines for the busy days. Equipment redundancies rarely stay redundant as business grows. So what is the result? It probably goes both ways, good and bad.

Product gets baked earlier and maybe more often. Perhaps a second or third shift is added. Since you can’t increase the size of the oven with the push of a button, it comes down to scheduling. The bread is baked one, two, three, or more hours earlier so that everything can get finished on time. Often the bread is being baked earlier but delivered at the usual time, therefore reaching the consumer when it is not as fresh.

There can also be positive changes regarding freshness. Busier days justify longer or extra shifts. Perhaps bread is hitting the shelf throughout the day as it is baked, when normally there would be no baking happening during those hours. Generally, although I don’t mean this as an excuse for mediocrity, the quality of product we are producing is so high that it’s still quite exceptional, but it is hard to make it exactly the same. It takes a lot of effort and dedication.

One way around this challenge is setting limits on production. When an airplane sells every seat, the plane is full, and that’s the end of discussion. But in bakeries, especially hand shops, the limits are foggy. It’s hard to say “No,” and it’s hard to know when the last seat is sold. It takes a lot of organizing and a lot of planning, and in the end most shops will find a way to get it done at the same level of quality they always do.

Personally, I feel there is a place where volume and quality meet. It’s all relative to the size of the business. Too little volume can create a situation in which

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it is just as hard to maintain quality as when it is too busy. There is a window in the middle where I think everything just clicks perfectly, and that place varies with the size of your business, from small home baker production to large bakeries. There is nothing wrong with working at a comfortable pace, but a sense of urgency when it is busy can result in more focus and higher quality. Also, sometimes more is just better. Larger batches of dough may ferment better, and full ovens of bread bake more evenly.

Whatever the case may be, I encourage all of us to keep things in perspective. Don’t drop your guard, and maintain your standards no matter how busy you get. Plan ahead and think it through. If you are making more bread, people are eating more bread, and for many of those tasting something from your bakery for the first time, this may be your only chance to make a lasting impression and grab their business year round, so be sure to make it a good one.

jeff yankellowBoard Chair

b r e a d l i n e s – s u M M e r 2 0 1 3 { 3 }

the Bread Bakers Guild of america gratefully recognizes its

2013-2015 fundraising partners for their generosity.

Platinum Partner ($120,000)

General Mills, Inc.

Gold Partner ($60,000)

King Arthur Flour Co.

Silver Partner ($36,000)

Central Milling Company

Lesaffre Yeast Corporation

Bronze Partner ($18,000)

Giusto’s Vita-Grain

Progressive Baker/Cargill

copper Partner ($12,000)

Pendleton Flour Mills

Media affiliates

Bake

Pastry & Baking North America

team alliance ($6,000)

BEMA

Con Agra Mills

Seven Stars Bakery

artisan circle ($3,600)

Acme Bread Company

Albemarle Baking Company

Allied Bakery Equipment Company, Inc.

Amy’s Bread

Bay State Milling Company

Breadsmith

Chabaso Bakery

Clear Flour Bread

George & Phyllis Enloe

The Esfelds

Grand Central Baking Company

Macrina Bakery & Cafe

Semifreddi’s

Tom Cat Bakery, Inc.

Tree-Top Baking

Zingerman’s Bakehouse

hearth Society ($1,980)

AIB International

Neale and Marian Creamer

Euro Pane Bakery

Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division

Niedlov's Breadworks

Udi's Breads

couche club ($990-$1,979)

Bennison’s Bakery

David Bergman

Ann F. Burgunder

Frank Carollo

Dawn Food Products, Inc.

Erika Record, LLC

Jason & Linda Gollan

Grateful Bread Co.

Sandy H. Kim

Dave Krishock

Orlando Baking Company

Michael Rhoads

Standard Baking Co.

Sun Street Breads

Baker’s Bunch ($390-$989)

Alessio Ambruso

Mary Andrews

Anonymous (3)

Bakehouse Bread Company

Jennifer Baker

Frank Basich

Bob Blaske

Certified Foods, Inc.

Crossroads Bakeshop

Abram Faber & Christy Timon

Gail Goetsch

T h a n k s T o o u r d o n o r s

guild newS

Harvey & Nora Hanoian

Serenity Farm Bread

Cathy Wayne

Jim Zimmerman

Guild friends (Up to $389)

Tim Andrews

Anonymous (3)

George Blanford

Lynne Bowden

Tod Bramble

Carol Brownson

Andy Clark

Andrew Cooley

Marsha De Angelis

Dewey Doughberman

Eden Valley Bakers

Jessie Foster

Michael Gesik

Rhoda Gordon

Leslie Green

James W. Hatfield III

John Jordre

Melina Kelson-Podolsky

Patricia Kennedy

Paul Krebs

John and Laura Kvasnosky

Neil Levy

Larry Lobe

Joan McConville

Benjamin Miller

Richard Miscovich

Murray Hollow Bakers

Barbara Oberlin

Christian Oertel

Barbara A. Oletzke

Harry Peemoeller

Lewis Perlmutter

Peter Reinhart

Sandwich Isle Bread Company

Hans van der Maarel


I thought I had died and gone to cooking heaven

after attending the two-day Viennoiserieclass at Johnson & Wales University (JWU) in Providence, RI taught by Chef Mitch Stamm, JWU faculty member and author of The Pastry Chef’s Apprentice

(Quarry, 2011). However, I scheduled an extra day to tour Providence with my husband, and Chef Stamm graciously arranged our visit to the JWU Culinary Arts Museum, even though it was closed. Little did we know that it would be trip down memory lane.

Once inside, we were given a brief history of the founding of the Museum. Ironically, we were told than an enormous collection from a Chicago chef who owned a restaurant called The Bakery served as the core of the museum. Before our host could finish her

introduction, we blurted out, “Louis Szathmary!” Not only had we dined at The Bakery and met the world-famous Chef Louis on several occasions in the 1970s, but we also own a cookbook he autographed. A wonder of memories unfolded that afternoon.

The Johnson & Wales Culinary Arts Museum is a gem of a museum, with ancient artifacts, recreated kitchens, mixers, flour sifters, and other tools spanning all eras. It is whimsically arranged with displays of airline and train place settings, traveling cookware, a full-size train diner and a malt shop. There is also a large library donated by the Retail Bakers of America that contains all the old trade journals, manuals, and arcane publications that are a time capsule of baking in America before the advent of present-day frozen and convenience items. In addition, there is an immense cookbook collection which includes Chef Louis’s personal cookbooks.

The JWU Culinary Museum is well worth a trip to Providence for anyone with a seri-ous interest in baking and the culinary arts. But call (401.598.2805) before you go, as the museum is temporarily closed as they inventory their massive collection. Re-opening is scheduled for the fall of 2014.

At the Johnson & Wales Culinary Arts Museum

culinary hiStory

hidden treaSUreS By jennifer Baker

Guild Member, Serious Home Baker, Chicago, IL

Louis Szathmary’s The Bakery Cookbook and the Hungarian

chef’s famous signature. His Chicago restaurant was open

from 1963 to 1989.

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culinary hiStory

The soda fountain, a portion of Moody's Diner (Waldoboro, Maine) which is on

display comes from the collection of museum Curator Richard Gutman. Mr.

Gutman is a well-known diner expert and author of American Diner: Then and Now.

Early hearth tools and a early American hearth are on display.

An 1800s kitchen stove, fully equipped with thermometer.

An early 20th century kitchen recreated from the museum collection.


C H R I S w I L k I n S, I n d e P e n d e n T bA k e Ry, AT H e n S, g AScholarship Essay Excerpt

I TA L I A n H O L I dAy bA k I n g

what do you hope to gain from the class?

First, and perhaps most importantly, I am eager to gain deeper professional and cultural insight into the pastries and sweet breads that many Italian and Italian-American families have long celebrated as an integral piece of their unique holiday traditions. While perhaps not evident from my surname, my mother – the child of sicilian immigrants –instilled in me an abiding respect for Italian holiday baking; she did this, I believe, because the abundant use of fats in holiday bread and pastry reflects important cultural truths that lay well-beyond practical considerations of tenderness or flakiness. that is, Italian holiday baking represents the brief and joyous moments of generosity and abundance for a historically impoverished and oppressed group of people. I hope to use this class to gain further understanding of the historical and cultural contexts that may have inspired some of these products.

the second reason I am invested in taking this course largely concerns the ways in which Italian-American bakeries in the small, rust-belt city I come from have become like soda fountains and drive-in movie theatres: that is, they have disappeared altogether or simply become “kitsch.” I am passionate in my belief that Italian-American bakeries are not necessarily bygone institutions whose sole function is to remind us of a “simpler, more honest” time. And yet, there is an unfortunate tendency

to cater more to image than quality. I take heart in seeing excellent Italian and Italian-American bakers committed to producing high-quality Italian breads and pastries. Biagio settepani is clearly one such individual, and it is a professional ambition of mine to learn from him and thus

work in accordance to keep standards for Italian baking at the highest level. to paraphrase Julia Child, how can a culture’s baking tradition be great if its sfogliatelle tastes like Kleenex?

I strongly believe that this course will help me move toward my ambition of moving ahead in my baking career: it will aid in improving my small-scale technical abilities while allowing me to explore the broader motivations for improving them in the first place.

How will you share your knowledge with your colleagues when you return?

While I am very interested in taking Italian holiday Baking to develop my own professional skills and knowledge, it is clear to me that any new skill set I develop as a result of this course is best employed when it is passed along to my colleagues; this line of work is most enjoyable for me when labor, knowledge, insight, and conversation are shared between co-workers.

I believe that this kind of exchange both perpetuates high-quality baking practices and fosters a sense of community in the bakery: we all bring our experiences to the bench, and often the sharing of these ideas lead to a new product or practice that helps the bakery progress and grow more diverse or efficient.

I used to work in a Vermont bakery which boasted a small, second-hand, bookshelf in the break room – which, when something wasn’t “checked out” for home use, regularly overflowed with books and articles on bread and pastry, enormous binders holding course-notes from past Guild conferences, and technical manuals concerning spiral mixers, oven building, and everything in between. My co-workers and I made frequent use of this small library, and it was not uncommon to see bakers on break discussing a new method, or a bread they tried at home, or even their undertaking of building a home oven. the small library was a reminder that our boss cared about fostering a culture of continued learning and development for his bakers, and I’m happy to say that my tenure there has influenced how I would share information with my colleagues in Athens. A good idea should be replicated; clearly, the most effective way to share my newly acquired knowledge with my peers would be to use whatever materials I receive from the course to begin to build our own small library. ✹

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what do you hope to gain from the class?

I have been working in various bakeries for the past few years. I also worked briefly in a restaurant preparing desserts and realized how much I loved being in a bakery environment. the first few years I was able to learn many things, but as time progressed, I realized I was passionate about bread baking. even though I worked in a bakery that focused mostly on cupcakes and French macaroons, my co-workers were amused as I brought my starter to work in order to feed it.

During this time I asked a friend, who was also a bread baker, what I should do to learn more about bread. she suggested that I do three things: 1) Join the Bread Bakers Guild of America, 2) Buy Jeffrey hamelman’s book, Bread, and 3) take a class at the san Francisco Baking Institute or the French Pastry school. slowly, I was able to check each of these things off my list. I was so excited to enter this world of bread and found that people were so helpful and willing to share. When I found the Crema Café, I was so excited because I had tried many bakeries in search of good bread but had not found it until I came here. It has been a privilege to work here and at the same time challenging.

this is why I am so encouraged by the Guild forums, classes, and events offered. I have learned so much just by reading the posts in the forums and am looking forward to learning even more. I feel that the last eight months has given me a greater understanding and feel for bread but I want to be able to continually improve and build upon what I have learned. I feel that there is only so much you can learn from a book, and I hope to gain a better understanding of how the dough should feel and the more detailed nuances of baking better bread, from mixing to shaping to baking.

How will you share your knowledge with your colleagues when you return?

I am lucky to be in a bakery where we are always trying to learn and improve what we do each day. some of my co-workers have been working for 20 plus years, while one of our newest members is just starting out. the one common theme is that everyone is willing to learn from one another. When I return from the class I look forward to sharing the knowledge I have gained through the class. Part of my responsibilities includes training our newest

member and getting our bread production to be more consistent. sometimes it has been a challenge since I feel like I am learning as I go, so it would be helpful to be able to learn more and have a better understanding of each of the steps involved in making bread.

Recently, the owner of our cafe took the BBGA’s ciabatta class with Didier Rosada. We had been struggling with our ciabatta production, and we knew it could be better. We tried to read up, watch Youtube videos and troubleshoot, but we could not quite get it to come out the way we wanted. After he returned from the ciabatta class, he shared with us step by step how the dough was mixed, shaped, and baked. he even brought back samples from the class! It was so exciting to finally understand the steps that we had to change or how to better mix and shape the bread. I hope that through attending the classes offered by the Guild we can continue to raise the quality and level of the bread we produce. ✹

C H R I S yO u n g , T H e C R e mA CA f é a n d A RT I SA n bA k e Ry Scholarship Essay Excerpt

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enough, these flavor profiles resonated in the baguettes accordingly.

We moved from these three preferments to sourdough starters. Karen and her team had fed a couple of different starters the night before. One was a Rye Levain fed with whole rye flour. The profiles in this were very earthy, with an overall acetic aroma. The second levain was made with Type 55 flour but had a surprise element – 2% salt. I was blown away. I had never heard of putting salt into a levain, but sure enough, it was healthy, fragrant, and had great, complex activity. We used the this salted levain to make a rye miche, and the result was glorious. We baked this bread for 1.5 hours, giving the bread a dark, caramel crust. The crumb was moist. I believe every member of the class took one five pound loaf. It took me a week

Bakers, by nature, are inquisitive beings. We want to know how things work, we want to understand the microscopic changes that happen in the fermentation stage, we want to feel the bread with our hands, we aim to find that perfect balance of flavor in each bread and compare our notes with other bakers about the subtleties. So when I saw that Karen Bornarth of Le Pain Quotidien was teaching a preferment class, I knew I was about to have a bread baker’s fantasy weekend.

The class started on Friday morning at Le Pain Quotidien’s flagship store in Soho. Housed in what looks like an old historic bank building, the bakery has large windows and a beautiful little deck oven.

Without delay, Karen had us all dive in. As she operated the mixer, we watched, we touched, we listened and we asked questions. Karen started with an oldie but a goodie: baguettes with different preferments – poolish, sponge, pâte fermentée. As Karen showed us the dough development, the class spoke in length about the differences in the smell and taste of the actual preferments. The sponge had the sweetest taste profile, the poolish had the nuttiest profile, and the pâte fermentée had a combination of acids, sweetness, and tartness. And sure

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: French Rye. The class with their finished products. Instructor Karen Bornarth. Spelt Levain in the oven. Sandy Kim-Bernards adjusts the pâte fermentée baguettes on the loader. Sourdough Rye in baskets.

By Sandy kiM-BernardS Guild Member and Research and Development Manager, Chabaso Bakery, New Haven, CT

Preferments – Techniques, Process, and Products

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preferments: techniques, process & products

Hosted by: Le Pain Quotidien

New York, NYAnna Boisture – Facility Liaison

Instructor:

Karen Bornarth

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April 26 - 27

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to eat it, but I am proud to say, not one single slice went to waste. Moreover, it kept fresh on my counter the whole time – just one of the many benefits of the levain.

We ended our day making pretzels with pâte fermentée and an overnight sweet cinnamon bread. The strength of the pâte fermentée contributed to the crumb struc-ture and density of the pretzel. We mixed, shaped, and retarded the dough overnight. Lye-dipped anything is pretty much my favorite snack, so it was no surprise when the pretzels were perfect. Due to the cold fermentation, it retained its shape and kept the crumb structure very tight – a characteristic we seek in pretzels.

The cinnamon bread used a sponge for a light crumb structure. This interesting dough was mixed and retarded overnight in bulk. The long, cold fermentation gave the cinnamon a more subtle and well-rounded flavor. It was an eye opener and brought new possibilities in my exploration of cinnamon bread.

The following day, we mixed two types of olive bread using poolish and levain. We used a combination of black and green olives, and the bread captured a wonderful fragrance. Since the olives were not chopped, every bite resulted in a burst

of flavor. The olive bread with the levain had a tighter crumb structure, but both breads held their own.

Next we moved on to a spelt bread which used a white starter but was fed with 100% white spelt flour. Although not gluten free, spelt has less gluten structure than wheat, so it proved to be a little stickier. But the end result was a slightly sour and nutty bread, perfect for any occasion.

Over the course of the two days, we covered many flavors and uses of different preferments. Preferments aid in flavor but also aid in production. It is not always easy or convenient to ferment bread dough overnight to gain the benefits of long fermentation. One way to achieve this is by using preferments. What’s more, once you begin to understand how preferments work, it is equally as captivating as bread. Formulations can be explored, fermentation times can be challenged, and one can even mix and match the different preferments for different benefits.

My biggest take-away from Karen’s class was that no matter where in your baking journey you are, you can continue to explore the possibilities. H

FROM LEFT: Tim Cunningham from Chabaso Bakery shaping a baguette. A student dividing the baguette made with pâte fermentée. Karen Bornarth explains the different shaping techniques for a baguette.

FROM TOP LEFT: Students’ hand-twisted pretzels ready to be dipped into a lye solution. The finished pretzels topped with cheese and salt. Daichi Ebato, a baker at Le Pain Quotidien, removing pretzels from the oven.


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this bread is big on the earthy and grainy flavor of rye resulting from a dough made using over 70% rye flour in the final dough. a coarse rye prefermented in the levain adds a nice texture to this bread's crumb.

Contributed by Karen Bornarth

ProceSS – Sourdough RyePreferment LevainMixing Type of mixer Spiral 1st speed 3–5 min

Fermentation Length of time 14–16 hr Temperature 70°F

final doughMixing Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Improved 1st speed 8 min 2nd speed 2 min Dough temp 78°F

Fermentation Length of time 30–45 min Temperature 78°F

shaping Divide 680 g preshape Round Resting time 15 min shape Round

proof & Bake Final proof time 1 hr Temperature 78°F Oven type Deck scoring As desired steam 3 sec Bake 15 min Temperature 470°F Bake 40 min Temperature 440°F

SoUrdoUGh rye

*Hard winter wheat (11%–11.5% protein)†Same composition as the levain

Total Flour Fermented in Levain 38.71%

Total Dough Weight 10.000 kg Coarse Rye Flour 100.00%

TOTaL FORMuLa Rye Levain FinaL DOugHingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms

Total Flour 100.00 5.518 100.00 2.136 100.00 3.382

Bread Flour* 26.54 1.464 43.00 1.454

Coarse Rye Flour 38.71 2.136 100.00 2.136

Rye Flour 34.75 1.928 57.00 1.928

Water 77.04 4.249 85.00 1.816 72.00 2.435

Salt 3.00 0.101 3.00 0.101

Instance Yeast 0.67 0.023 0.67 0.023

Starter† 1.94 0.107 5.00 0.107

Rye Levain 120.00 4.059

Totals 182.65 10.000 200.10 6.368 250.78 20.400

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Dough for a pâte fermentée baguette being scaled. Baguette preshapes begin their bench rest before final shaping. Students dividing the Buckwheat Apple Bread. Karen and students loading the sprouted wheat miche.

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When the class list for the year was announced by The Guild, I eagerly scanned through the locations, hoping for another class in Texas. When I saw the “All About Ciabatta” class listed for San Antonio, I was doubly excited, as it was also being taught by Didier Rosada! The two-day class was graciously hosted by the San Antonio branch of The Culinary Institute of America. It was certainly a wonderful experience to have full use of their baking classroom and great equipment, and two instructors generously donated their precious weekend time to help with the class.

Didier started the class by telling us that, despite the name, the class wasn’t really about ciabatta; the class was all about learning various techniques (through making ciabatta) that can be applied to making any bread. Didier was careful to stress many times throughout the two days that what defines true artisan bread is the process that is used to make that bread, and what makes a baker an artisan baker is understanding and respecting that process. He used the various types of ciabatta we made during the class to illustrate the fundamental bread baking process and how it can be altered or tweaked to fit different ingredients or timetables, while still respecting its integrity.

The first day was spent making the traditional formula of ciabatta in different ways. The first was the most traditional formula that was made using a poolish preferment and employed a short mix plus three folds during the bulk fermentation to build the strength of the dough. While this is the most traditional method to make ciabatta, many bakers find it difficult to return to the dough every 45 minutes for another fold. In direct response to that situation, we made two successive doughs in which the gluten was almost fully developed in the mixer, and they received no folds during the bulk fermentation. These doughs used two different preferments to illustrate the differences in flavor and aroma between bread made with a poolish and with a biga. We finished off the day by mixing a ciabatta that received no folds and was retarded overnight in the cooler.

The results after baking were quite phenomenal, and also a little surprising in how alike the crumb structure was in all the breads. Didier successfully demonstrated the two approaches to building strength in a very wet dough. The first was to add all the water at the beginning and use a short mix in conjunction with folds to build strength. The second used the double hydration

All About Ciabatta all about ciabatta Hosted by:

The Culinary Institute of AmericaSan Antonio, TX

Heather Gasaway – Facility Liaison

Instructor:

Didier Rosada

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May 18 - 19

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The Culinary Institute of America in San Antonio, TX, has introduced an Associate in Applied Science (AAS) degree in baking and pastry arts, based on the curriculum offered at the college's campuses in Hyde Park, NY and St. Helena, CA.

Classes emphasize extensive hands-on experience in baking and pastry techniques and production. Additional studies cover topics in design, equipment technology, nutrition, and management. Near the end of sophomore year, students gain practical experience at the school’s two restaurants, which are open to the public.

This expansion of the baking and pastry program is under the direction of Alain Dubernard, Department Chair for Baking and Pastry Arts.

By zach lanGenkaMP

Guild Member and Director of Product Development, Blue Baker, College Station, TX

FROM LEFT: Didier Rosada preparing a ciabatta dough for final cutting. The Ancient Grains Ciabatta


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Kathleen Busche plays the gluten harp after Didier Rosada demonstrates the Improved/Double Hydration method of mixing ciabatta dough, which eliminates the necessity of folds and saves time and labor in the ciabatta process.

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method of mixing: adding most of the water at the beginning of the mix (to get to a baguette consistency), developing the gluten, and then adding the remaining water after building strength in the dough. Both methods resulted in a beautiful, classic ciabatta shape with a moist, open crumb.

We spent the second day of class making flavor variations of ciabatta that Didier created. All of these doughs were mixed using the double hydration method and an improved mix for gluten development, needing no folds during bulk fermentation for strength. The first was the Ancient Grains Ciabatta, made using a sponge with teff flour and a poolish with amaranth flour. While this bread didn’t have very much of the teff and amaranth in the total formula, the two ancient grain flours were used entirely in the preferments, maximizing their flavor and creating a wonderful bread.

Next up were the three variations using multiple grains and soakers for a heartier ciabatta. The Ciabatta Integrale used 20% whole wheat flour, a cracked wheat soaker, and a whole wheat sponge to deliver nutrition and loads of flavor. The Multigrain Ciabatta was similar, in that it also used whole wheat flour but employed a whole wheat poolish rather than a sponge, and a soaker made of rolled oats, flax, sesame, and sunflower seeds for a great grainy flavor and texture. Finally, the Functional Ciabatta combined a whole wheat poolish with a flax seed

soaker, toasted pecans, agave syrup, oats, and currants for a final product that was bursting with flavor in addition to providing many health benefits.

The final bread was arguably the most highly anticipated by the class: Didier’s Breakfast Ciabatta. This formula combined traditional ciabatta ingredients with those normally found in a brioche, for a sweet, wonderful breakfast bread. We added some egg, butter, and sugar to sweeten and enrich the dough, and after developing the gluten, incorporated dark chocolate chunks and candied orange peel as well. It probably goes without saying that these all disappeared by the end of the day.

A large part of my reason for taking this class was that Didier was teaching it, a sentiment that was echoed by most of the other students on the first day. I am continuously amazed not only by Didier’s mastery of the bread baking craft, but also his ability to instruct others and pass on some measure of that skill as well. I

continuously discovered little nuggets of knowledge and skill from Didier during the two days, usually when he was answering one of the many insightful questions of the other students. One of the survey questions at the end asked us to rate how our expectations were met; at first I felt this a bit unfair, as my own expectations were so high to begin with, but even so, they were exceeded in this great class. H

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Functional Ciabatta. Didier striking a

pose about to answer a question. The Ciabatta for Retarding.


FROM TOP: Breakfast Ciabatta. Some ingredients for the recipe including dark chocolate chunks, chopped candied orange peel, and sugar.

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ProceSS – Breakfast CiabattaPreferment PoolishMixing Type of mixer By hand

Fermentation Length of time 12 hr Temperature 73°F

final doughMixing Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Improved /double hydration 1st speed 5 min 2nd speed 5 min + 3 min Dough temp 73°F–76°F

Fermentation Length of time 2 hr, 30 min Temperature 73°F–76°F

shaping Divide 200 g shape Ciabatta proofing device Floured linen, top down

proof & Bake Final proof time 1 hr Temperature 75°F Oven type Deck steam Yes Total bake 20 min, floured side up Temperature 420°F Damper open Last 5 min

named after its distinctive shape, ciabatta, or“slipper,” is one of the newest breads to come out of italy and one of the most popular in the United States. at least two italian bakers claim to have invented ciabatta; its origins have been traced to both the lake como region and trentino. one theory holds that the rustic bread may have been the result of a baker adding too much water to a dough and then continuing the baking process anyway, which would have created a final result like the ciabatta: flat and long, with a large and open crumb cell structure. this version of the ciabatta is a fusion of traditional process and contemporary-tasting sweet bread. it is a great way to start the day with a delicious breakfast treat.

notes: Add the water to the final dough in

two steps (double hydration). Add Water 1 at the start and mix on speed 1 for 5 minutes, followed by speed 2 for 5 minutes at which point the gluten should be about 80% developed. Next add Water 2 and mix on speed 2 for 3 minutes.

: Add the chocolate chips and candied orange peel after Water 2 is fully incorporated. Then mix on speed 1 until evenly distributed.

Contributed by Didier Rosada

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BreakfaSt ciaBatta with PooliSh & chocolate chiPS

*AP Flour is hard red winter wheat (11%–11.5% protein)†4,000 pieces/lb

Total Flour Total Dough Weight 24.230 kg Prefermented 35.00%

TOTaL FORMuLa pOOLisH FinaL DOugHingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms

Bread Flour* 100.00 10.000 100.00 3.500 100.00 6.500

Water 1 55.00 5.500 100.00 3.500 30.77 2.000

Water 2 25.00 2.500 38.46 2.500

Salt 2.00 0.200 0.10 0.004 3.02 0.197

Instant Yeast 0.30 0.030 0.10 0.004 0.41 0.027

Chocolate Chips† 20.00 2.000 30.77 2.000

Eggs 10.00 1.000 15.38 1.000

Butter 10.00 1.000 15.38 1.000

Candied Orange Peel 10.00 1.000 15.38 1.000

Sugar 5.00 0.500 7.69 0.500

Honey 5.00 0.500 7.69 0.500

Poolish 107.80 7.007

Totals 242.30 24.230 200.20 7.007 372.77 24.230

With Poolish & Chocolate Chips


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In this two-day class taught by Roger Gural, a very experienced baker and member of Bread Bakers Guild Team USA, we learned how to modify bread formulas to speed up or retard their time between the mixing bowl and the oven, as well as how to create a production schedule to make the best use of mixer time, floor space, and oven space.

The class was held at Kendall College, and we were graciously supported by liaison Melina Kelson-Podolsky and a group of Kendall students who volunteered to ensure that we were able to concentrate on learning rather than on the logistics of being in an unfamiliar kitchen.

On Day One, we learned that yeast is only one factor that affects rate of fermentation and thus timing. Other

factors include temperature, amount of sugar and salt, dough pH factor, and hydration percent. You also need to consider dough strength (flour type, number of folds, mixing style, hydration) when

calculating the time that a dough needs to develop properly. We learned that different preferments have different flavor impacts on the dough, from the nutty flavor of the poolish to the pronounced acidity of the rye sour, based on their individual tendency to inhibit or favor enzymatic activity.

We also discussed four approaches to retarding dough: from an overnight bulk retard at 44°F with a 1 to 1½ hour final proof at room temperature to the controlled proof where the dough receives a short 20 minute bulk ferment, then after shaping is held for 12-48 hours at 40°F and proofed for 4 hours at 60°F before baking. Some of these required dough additives or specialized equipment, but would have been interesting to play around with if we had had more time to experiment.

Roger told us that on Day Two we would be working in four teams. Each team would prepare four breads, from mix to bake, from the same four formulas. We would have to determine yeast percent and also what, if any, preferment we would use: biga, poolish, sponge, or pâte fermentée. We would have to mix 30 pounds of each formula, and at the end

of the day would compare our breads. We could not change the formula, we would have the exclusive use of one mixer and two oven decks, and our breads would have to be out of the oven earlier than 3 p.m. so we could taste and discuss them before the class ended

By nancy SUllivan

Guild Member and Owner, Texas Pizza Wagon, Round Top, TX

Crafting Breads to Fit Your Schedule

FROM TOP: Finished baguettes. Roger talks to the class about comparing the crumb of two types of breads. One team's final breads. Rye loaves waiting for the oven.


at 4 p.m. Finally, we had to prepare a tentative working schedule to ensure that the ovens would be ready for our loaves when they were ready to be baked. All of this had to be accomplished with a team of people that we had never met before.

The four formulas were a country dough with 10% each whole wheat and rye flours, a 40% rye, a white “wet” dough with 75% water, and a multigrain cereal dough that incorporated a soaker of cracked wheat and seeds.

We broke into teams, reviewed the formulas, and decided on loaf shape and yeast percent. We determined which preferments would best fit what we wanted to create on Day Two and made a quick pass at a schedule. Then we mixed our preferments and left for the evening.

The next day, we scaled our ingredients and started mixing the first dough, only to discover what happens when your baker's math is not up to par, or you make

GreateSt hitS

June 8 - 9

GreateSt hitS

crafting breads tofit your schedule

Hosted by: Kendall College

Chicago, ILMelina Kelson-Podolsky

Facility Liaison

Instructor:

Roger Gural

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a mistake in your calculations: bread soup! Roger helped us recover and get back on track, and we lost only about 45 minutes on our schedule.

During the day we constantly re-evaluated our dough and process. The pâte was judged to be a bit slow, so we changed the order of mixing to use the ripe poolish first. Our dough rose very quickly in the warm room, so we moved it into the cooler to keep it from overdeveloping. Our schedule very quickly became outdated. And at the end of the day, we had four lovely sets of loaves to display and taste.

I was amazed at the variety of loaf shapes and differences in taste and texture among the teams’ breads. It gave me a lot of food for thought (literally - we tasted 16 breads!) and fuel for my baking. It also gave me an enhanced respect for those who juggle multiple bakers, doughs, mixers, ovens, and product lines every day. Their job is a lot harder than I had ever realized. H

RIGHT: Roger dem-onstrates how the

baguette dough should be pre-shaped. FAR RIGHT: Creating

flawless final shapes is hard to do.

TOP LEFT: The Crafting Breads Class. ABOVE: The class compared two

different types of miche.


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ProceSS – Triple Alliance 1-day 2-day 3-day Preferment Poolish Poolish PoolishMixing Type of mixer See process notes See process notes See process notes

Fermentation Length of time 12 hr 12 hr 12 hr Temperature 75°F 75°F 75°F

final doughTiming Time from mix 11 hr, 20 min 22 hr, 50 min 34 hr, 40 min Total time 23 hr, 20 min 34 hr, 50 min 46 hr, 40 min

Mixing Type of mixer Spiral Spiral Spiral Mix style Short Short Short 1st speed 15 min 15 min 20 min Mixer revolutions 1,500 1,500 2,000 Dough temp 75°F 75°F 75°F

Fermentation Length of time 4 hr, 30 min 4 hr, 30 min 16 hr Temperature 75°F 75°F 40°F number of folds 4 4 None Timing for folds 15, 30, 60, 120 min 15, 30, 60, 120 min

shaping Divide 2.000 kg 2.000 kg 2.000 kg preshape Round Round Round Resting time 30 min 30 min 45 min shape Round Round Round proofing device Banneton Banneton Banneton

proof & Bake Final proof time 4 hr, 30 min 16 hr 16 hr Temperature 75°F 40°F 40°F Humidity 65%–75% Oven type Deck Deck Deck scoring Yes Yes Yes steam 2 sec 2 sec 2 sec Total bake 1 hr, 20 min 1 hr, 20 min 1 hr, 20 min Temperature 460°F for 15 min, then 400°F 460°F for 15 min, then 400°F 460°F for 15 min, then 400°F Damper open Last 20 min Last 20 min Last 20 min

this large, round french bread, often called a miche, is traditionally made with a sourdough starter. in this version the levain is replaced with a poolish. the long, slow, cold fermentation develops aroma and acidity without overpowering the flavor of the three grains.

Contributed by Roger Gural

notes: Poolish may be mixed by hand, or with

planetary or spiral mixer (1st speed), just until combined.

: After mixing, dough consistency should be medium-soft with moderate develop-ment.

: Dough will acquire the strength of that provided by an improved mix, after folds and long fermentation.

: 3-day dough is mixed to slightly higher development, as there are no folds be-fore the dough goes into the cooler.

: Use well-floured, 10" bannetons for proofing.

: 2-day and 3-day doughs are baked straight from the retarder cold, with no further proof prior to baking.

triPle alliance

*Hard wheat (11.5%–12% protein)†Finely ground

TOTaL FORMuLa pOOLisH FinaL DOugHingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms

Total Flour 100.00 11.317 100.00 3.182 100.00 8.135

Bread Flour* 52.07 5.893 100.00 3.182 33.00 2.711

Whole Rye Flour† 23.96 2.712 33.34 2.712

Whole Spelt Flour 23.96 2.712 33.34 2.712

Water 78.00 8.827 100.00 3.182 69.39 5.645

Salt 2.16 0.244 3.01 0.244

Fresh Yeast 0.10 0.011 10.00 0.003 0.10 0.008

Sponge 78.28 6.368

Totals 180.26 20.400 200.10 6.368 250.78 20.400

Total Flour Fermented in Poolish 28.12%

Total Dough Weight 20.400 kg Bread Flour 54.00%


there’s no doubt that pizza is one of the most popular foods in America. the $37-billion industry centers on a product that was once considered ethnic food but is now a dietary staple. From coast to coast you can find pizza in an astonishing array of variations. Whether you’re an east Coaster who prefers large slices of thin crust or a Midwesterner who craves a chewy, deep dish, it’s all based on a classic Italian street food: Pizza napoletana.

this food from humble beginnings can translate to big business, based on current consumer demand. today’s diners are looking for local and seasonal ingredients, adventurous flavors, eco-friendliness, and they appreciate the process with which their food is created. Across all restaurant segments, consumers are seeking out delicious food prepared with an artisan touch and quality ingredients. naples-style pizza fits the bill.

this resurgence of classic naples-style pizza is a boon for bakers. With the right tools and ingredients, any baker can put his or her stamp on this Italian classic. the crux of naples-style pizza is simple: delicious dough, fresh toppings applied with a light hand, and a hot, fast bake.

it starts with the dough

naples-style dough is simple and lean, utilizing only flour, water, yeast, and salt. At 60 to 65 percent hydration, the dough is extensible enough to be hand-formed into its typical 10-inch round. the dough

light toppings for big flavor

the most popular neapolitan pizza preparations are Marinara (tomato, garlic and oregano), Margherita, and extra Margherita (both with tomato, basil and mozzarella). As serious as Italians are about their flour, they may be even more guarded about pizza toppings; when prepared in europe, neapolitan pizza must, by law, contain only the aforementioned ingredients.

For American artisan bakers there is plenty of room for creativity while adhering to the tenets of Italian cuisine. the key is to respect the tradition by using a select few quality ingredients that complement each other. Crafting the right product for your customers may begin with local preferences. Is your bakery near the local wharf where you can get fresh shrimp? Add some red peppers and call it a day. A few dollops of ricotta and a sprinkling of wild mushrooms make a delightful pairing. Keep it simple—if you load your naples-style dough with barbecue sauce, pineapple, and ham, the Italian Pizza Police may come knocking.

baked to perfection

the last, but definitely not least, component of creating naples-style pizza is proper baking. In order to achieve the characteristic crispy yet chewy crust that dances on the line between fresh and charred, the pizza must be cooked rapidly. Achieving this perfect baking scenario is largely dependent on the oven. stone hearth ovens have been in

classic artiSan BakinG

Creating naples-Style Pizza

in your bakeryby tim huff

Guild Member and R&D Manager at General Mills Convenience & Foodservice Division, Minneapolis, MN

is minimally fermented, as it is typically used on the same day it is made. this is an area where an artisan baker could improve on a classic. By extending to overnight fermentation or applying some preferment techniques, bakers could increase the flavor depth and complexity of the finished crust without straying from the simplicity of the product.

the native neapolitan bakers use their local type 00 flour. Italian law establishes that flour is to be produced to specific characteristics and then labeled as specific flour type: type 00, 0, 1, 2, or Wheat. the different designations are relative to milling extraction levels as expressed by the ash value of the flour. Domestically, we do not have flour standards that mandate ash levels and do not have designated flour types.

While many in the pizza industry pay the price for imported flour to recreate the

“authentic” pizza, there are reasonably priced flours available domestically that can produce a naples-style crust. A me-dium protein winter wheat bread flour will create a nice, extensible dough similar to that prepared with type 00 flour.

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use for thousands of years and continue to produce delicious pizza in Italy and across the globe.

As consumers demanded more artisanal products, many bakers across the united states returned to stone hearth baking. Michael Brockman, corporate chef at Wood stone Corporation, explains the significance of baking in a stone hearth oven: “the brilliance of the open flame and the stored heat in the floor and dome create an intense cooking chamber which caramelizes natural sugars in the food. this unlocks waves of natural flavors simply inaccessible with using other types of ovens.”

With cook times averaging 60-90 seconds, baking naples-style pizza requires oven floor temperature of around 750°F. Pizzas are added to the oven in small groups, spun 180 degrees as they reach the open flame, and then lifted 4-6 inches off the oven floor into the smoke-filled dome for the last 10-15 seconds. this technique cre-ates perfectly crisp crust, golden-colored tops, and enhances the flavor profile.

the wood-fired experience

If authenticity is your aim, a wood-fired stone hearth oven is crucial to recreating the true neapolitan experience. the rustic flair added by the aroma and

smokiness of a wood fire will enhance the flavor profile of your pizza and the ambiance of your bakery café.

While oak is the perennial favorite of most bakers, there are many options to consider. Picking the right fuel depends on your location, available wood, cost, and preference for flavor qualities of various wood types. selecting wood based on its specific characteristics and imparted flavor can further showcase your command of the craft.

use the table below to weigh the pros and cons of various types of wood and decide which works for your bakery. Medium-hard and hard woods are the best for burning and maintaining heat. Depending on your location, this could include oak, maple, ash, beech, or birch. It also includes fruit and nut trees—like apple, almond, cherry, pear, pecan, and walnut—which are favored for their fragrance.

Other highly fragrant options include hickory and mesquite, which you’ll recognize as the preferred wood of the barbecue industry. steer clear of conifers (pines) as they are a poor fuel source. their high levels of sap and oil create lots of sparks, too much smoke – imparting an unpleasant taste to food – and prevent them from producing enough heat.

wood alternatives

While many crave the authenticity of a wood-fired oven, gas-fueled stone hearth ovens can create a nearly indistinguishable product.

“We discovered that the fuel source is not the secret of the oven; the stone hearth is the secret,” says Brockman. “By producing the gas-fired stone hearth oven, we’ve solved the problems that wood fire can produce – namely, venting and operational challenges. With gas, operators are able to open in locations previously untenable and standardize their operational training.”

mangia!

expanding your repertoire to include naples-style pizza is an easy way to capitalize on some of the hottest food trends today. Artisanal pizza bridges the gap between gourmet and street food, bringing a high-quality product to a casual atmosphere. It doesn’t require imported ingredients, expensive new equipment, or complicated recipes. Following the three simple elements of neapolitan pizza – simple dough, unassuming toppings, and the perfect bake – can transform your bakery into an artisanal pizza café. ✹

Wood Type Heat Lbs/Cord Lighting Coaling sparks Fragrance*

Alder Med-Low 2540 Fair Good Moderate Slight

Apple High 4400 Difficult Excellent Few Excellent

Ash Medium 2890 Fairly Difficult Good-Excellent Few Slight

Beech High 3760 Difficult Excellent Few Good

Birch (white) Medium 3040 Easy Good Moderate Slight

Cherry Medium 2975 Difficult Excellent Few Excellent

Elm Medium 2975 Difficult Good Very Few Fair

Hickory Very High 4240 Difficult Excellent Moderate Excellent

Ironwood Very High 4000 Very Difficult Excellent Few Slight

Locust (black) High 3840 Difficult Excellent Very Few Slight

Madrone High 4320 Difficult Excellent Very Few Slight

Maple (red) High-Med 3200 Fairly Difficult Excellent Few Good

Maple (sugar) High 3680 Difficult Excellent Few Good

Mesquite Very High 5500 Very Difficult Excellent Few Excellent

Oak (live) Very High 4600 Very Difficult Excellent Few Fair

Oak (red) High 3680 Difficult Excellent Few Fair

Oak (white) Very High 4200 Difficult Excellent Few Fair

Pecan High 3995 Difficult Good Few Good

Walnut High-Med 3230 Difficult Good Few Fair



napoletana Pizza doughContributed by bill weekley

This is the Americanized version of neopolitan pizza.

formulation is identical to neopolitan dough, but

pizzerias can use whatever oven, cheese, and sauce they

choose. Toppings are usually kept to a minimum.

ProceSS – Napoletana Pizza Doughfinal doughMixing Type of mixer Planetary Mix style Short 1st speed 10 min Dough temp 78°F–82°F

1st Fermentation Length of time 30 min Temperature 72°F–76°F

2nd Fermentation Divide 255 g shape Round proofing device Tote or sheet pan Length of time Overnight or minimum 12–18 hr Temperature 34°F–40°F

3rd Fermentation Length of time 60–90 min, or until dough reaches 60°F Temperature 72°F–76°F

Makeup shape According to pan/peel size garnish As desired

proof & Bake Final proof time None Bake Refer to process notes

mixing: If using a 3-speed mixer, mix on speed 1;

if using a 4-speed mixer, mix on speed 2.: Place water and salt in mixer bowl; mix

for 2 minutes or until salt is dissolved.: Add flour and yeast; mix for 10 minutes.

shaping & proofing: Prepare peel or pan/screen that pizza

will be baked on by dusting with cornmeal/flour blend, semolina/flour blend, or Wondra flour.

: There is no final proof; after dough has warmed at room temperature, it is hand stretched, topped and baked.

baking: Bake without steam using appropriate

time and temperature for your oven. Approximate times and temperatures for common ovens are:

+ Conveyor oven: 450°F for 6–8 minutes + Deck oven, no open flame: 550°F–750°F for 2–3 minutes + Deck oven, open flame: 650°F–700°F for 2–2.5 minutes: If baking with a gas oven, the vents are

left at least partially open.

naPoletana Pizza doUGh

Total Dough Weight 7.356 kg

TOTaL FORMuLaingredients % kilograms

Bread Flour* 100.00 4.540

Water 60.00 2.724

Salt† 1.88 0.085

Instant Yeast 0.16 0.007

Totals 162.03 7.356

*Bread flour is hard red winter wheat (12% protein)†Sea salt is traditional for this dough

Neapolitan bakers use theirlocal Type 00 flour. A medium

protein winter wheat bread flour willcreate an extensible dough similar to

that prepared with Type 00 flour.



2013 bakery oPen hoUSe

THe THIRd AnnuAL guILd-wIde bAkeRy OPen HOuSe wAS HeLd On June 29, 2013. On THAT dAy, OveR 50 guILd bAkeRIeS In THIRTy uS STATeS And One CAnAdIAn PROvInCe OPened THeIR dOORS TO THe PubLIC.

The Guild-Wide Bakery Open House, the brainchild of former Board member Richard Miscovich, debuted in June 2011 to accolades from the membership and the public and has become an annual event.

The Bakery Open House was conceived as a way to bring communities to their bakeries, as well as champion the cause for locally made bread. Although Guild bakers shine on the world stage of baking, the essential focus of their work is within their local communities.

This event allows Guild bakeries to forge a stronger connection with the people who buy their bread, and gives the community a rare opportunity to see where and how their bread is made.

Stay tuned for the Fourth Annual Open House in 2014!

bennison's bakery Evanston, IL

“We had a very successful open house, had over a hundred visitors… Moving the date back to this time of year was definitely a good move!”

– Jory Downer

blackdoor bakery Huntington, VT

“The open house was a huge success. People who had never come to the bakery before came to see the oven, and a few were interested in my community bread club. I hope to participate in future open houses.”

– Dean Menke

black Rooster bakery Forth Worth, TX

“Our Open House was AWESOME! Couldn’t believe we had people show up at 4:00 am!! …We had people come from all over the Metroplex! It was just great, and people really enjoyed it!”

– Marche Ann Mann

blue baker Austin and College Station, TX

“The open house was a huge success this year! We did a much better job advertising the event to our customers this year, and they really responded in turn. Between the four events we had throughout the day and our two locations, we had over 150 customers visit, including 33 at 4 am!! All four events we had were very popular, but I think I had the most fun doing the lamination demo. During this event I baked some croissants, showed how we laminate our doughs from start to finish, and then everyone got to shape a few of their own croissants. It was really fun to watch all the customers get their hands dirty and get a feel for the dough, as well as an appreciation for how hard it is! We ended up the demo with fresh croissants for everyone, which is always a crowd pleaser.” – Zach Langenkamp

bread Craft Roanoake, VA

“Our first open house went really well. There didn't seem to be any casual observers in the crowd. Everyone was really into it and asking a lot of questions. We're looking forward to doing this again next year.”

– Alex Eliades

bus Stop Coffee Shop Milwaukee, WI

“We had a nice turnout and attracted several new patrons as well. All in all, it was a successful endeavor! We had some tours of our bakeshop, free samples of various baked goods, and plenty of fresh handmade breads. Thank you for providing us this opportunity!” – Pat Gleason

earth Sky Time farm Manchester, VT

“We advertised the open house as a Saturday night open production party at 9:00 PM, and we figured we'd just work out what that all meant on Saturday night. [Aside from] a few confused people who showed up at 9:00 AM, everyone had a great time. We had live bluegrass music, tours of the farm by moonlight, a discussion about how we make our breads, and a little shaping lesson. We even managed to get our night's production work in (barely). We never get to go to parties on Saturday nights because we are always here working. Thanks for the inspiration to throw a party here at the bakery.” – Oliver Levis

good wood Pizza Ovens Lincolnton, NC

“We had 18 guests at our open house. I believe everyone enjoyed it. Since the bakery is under construction, we didn't cook any loaf bread that day, but we did cook naan… People enjoyed seeing the oven that I’m building, the seed cleaner, and the grist mill and flour sifter in action. A lot of fermented beverages were consumed since it


was a warm summer day. Quote from several of the guests: ‘I am a naan baker instead of a non-baker.’ It was a lot of fun for me, so sign me up for next year!” – Brian Rollins

gracious bakery New Orleans, LA

“Our Bakery Open House went so well! We gave tours of the kitchen from 8 am to 11 am, 5 tours with 10-15 people each. There were lots of new faces in the crowd, asking lots of questions. We definitely gained new customers, and everyone is interested in hands-on bread classes, which we plan to offer in the fall… We can't wait to participate in the next one.” – Megan Forman

La farm bakery Cary, NC

“The Bakery Open House at La Farm went great! We had about 45 people over the 2 hours and everyone seemed really interested. Everyone received a tour of the bakery and then Lionel spent time with the first 24 people to sign up doing a hands on demo, teaching them how to shape rolls, batards, baguettes, etc… Thanks so much for organizing this.”

– Rachel Siegel

Orange boot bakery Regina, SK

“Our open house this year was the best yet. We ran tours in the afternoon and had a local goat cheese producer and honey producer come by to offer samples with our bread. The highlight was our ‘Pretzel and Braid’ class that we held after we finished our daily baking. Eighteen of our regular customers spent the afternoon shaping pretzels and braiding egg dough. I’d hire 3-4 of them for the Christmas rush without hesitation! Everyone had a pile of fun, and we received some amazing thank you letters.” – Mark Dyck


2 0 1 3Participating Bakeries

Alon’s bakery – dunwoody Dunwoody, GAbackdoor bakery Huntington, VTbecca’s backwoods bean Sparta, NCbellgarde bakery New Orleans, LAbennison’s bakery Evanston, ILblue baker – Austin Austin, TXblue baker – College Station College Station, TXbouchon bakery Yountville, CAbread Craft Roanoke, VAbreadfarm Bow, WAbus Stop Coffee Shop Milwaukee, WIChoc O Pain french bakery Hoboken, NJClear flour bread Brookline, MAContinental bakery Birmingham, ALCornerstone bread Company Indianapolis, INCrema Café & Artisan bakery Seal Beach, CACrust Fenton, MIdakota Harvest bakers Grand Forks, NDdelightful Pastries Chicago, ILearth Sky Time Community farm & Hearth Manchester Center, VTevergrain bread Company Chestertown, MDfire Island Rustic bakeshop Anchorage, AKgood wood Pizza Ovens Lincolnton, NCgracious bakery New Orleans, LAgrand Central bakery Seattle, WAgrateful bread Company Sacramento, CAIsland bread Company Washington Island, WALa farm bakery Cary, NCmacrina bakery & Café Seattle, WAmanchester Community College School of Culinary Arts Manchester, CTO bread bakery Shelburne, VTOne Acre garden and bakery Beaufort, NCOrange boot bakery Regina, SKPagosa baking Company Pagosa Springs, CO Panhandle Artisan bread Co. Moscow, IDPatisserie 46 Minneapolis, MNPatisserie vero beach Vero Beach, FLPrairie Thunder baking Company Oklahoma City, OKRyus Avenue bakery La Veta, COS & J bakery Café Cincinnati, OHSt. Peters bakery St. Peters, PASugar bakery & Café Seattle, WA Sun Street breads Minneapolis, MNThe black Rooster bakery Fort Worth, TXThe king’s bakery Charlotte, NCThe Old School bakery Colorado Springs, COThe victorian bakery Kalamazoo, MIvillage bakery Montour Falls, NYvintage baking Company Glen, NHwheatfields bakery Café Lawrence, KSZingerman’s bakehouse Ann Arbor, MI


Panhandle Artisan bread Moscow, ID

“Our open house was a lot of fun. Our neighbors at Hog Heaven Sausage and the Moscow Brewing Company also opened their doors up. We made pizza in our deck oven using local cheese and Hog Heaven Italian sausage. We also featured bread made with the Moscow Brewing Company’s spent grains and amber ale. We had two bands play - The Intentions and Henry C. and the Willards. People drank and sang and danced. This also marked our 5 year anniversary.” – Nels Peterson

Patisserie 46 Minneapolis, MN

[The photo at the top of page 30 demonstrates] exactly what I LOVE about the open house. It brings in people from all over to your shop. This couple was visiting from out of town and they were given a tour of our facility as well as samples of our breads and pastry. The best part for them was being able to ‘talk shop’ in a comfortable environment. They were poking our brains over artisan breads and Viennoiserie, and it was fantastic to share whatever knowledge or help we could lend. Can't wait for next year!”

– Marc Levy

Prairie Thunder baking Company Oklahoma City, OK

“People who had never been here came in after reading about [the open house]. It was a low-key event, with groups spending about 45 minutes back in the kitchen with us as we demonstrated scaling, shaping and baking several different products out of baguette dough, and one episode with ciabatta dough. I think the star of the event was our automatic oven loader. People would gasp as it left the bread in the oven… It was one of our more successful Saturdays in terms of revenue as well!” – John McBryde


Ryus Avenue bakery La Veta, CO

“By 5:15, there were 7-9 people who crowded into our tiny kitchen and watched me do a final fold on the Danish and asked questions about the almond croissants and proofing times for breakfast treats. I had one of my marvelous staff members to pick up the slack with information when I was busy with shuffling things in and out of the oven. Those who came loved being able to wander in ‘the back,’ and asked great questions. It was a fun hour and a half and at 7:00 AM, I thanked every-one who came early, and shooed them out to the front for coffee and cake.”

– Mary Backiel

St. Peters bakery St. Peters, PA

“We had a great time with the open house…Attendees were walked through our process of sour dough bread production from start to finish, with hands on how to shape baguette.

…For point of comparison we baked a baguette that had been retarded overnight and baked a baguette from the dough that we made during the demo. All could tell the difference in the flavor and texture difference in a blind tasting. We were so involved in the process we forgot to take pictures! First experience oversight – we will orchestrate better next year, as it is something we will do again and again.”

– Melanie Melle

The Crema Café & bakery Seal Beach, CA

“This year we invited guests to informational tours through our bakery and tastings every half hour. Our bakery, being of humble square footage, made the open house experience especially intimate… We spoke about what artisan means and why these values are what uphold our foundation. Our guests had opportunities to observe scaling, dough mixing, croissant lamination, and more. The last part of our tour was

held in our courtyard where guests sampled our breads and sandwiches. Tarit Tanjasiri talked about his passion for making bread and his love for the generous culture that surrounds a piece of bread. We sent our happy guests off with a fresh baguette and postcard of bread shapes… We were able to make a personal connection with our visitors. They not only got a tour of our bakery but also saw us as individuals connecting together, doing what we do best. We can't wait for next year!” – Aubreyanna Robinson

The king's kitchen Charlotte, NC

“We did a demo on pizza dough with [our guests], and they took it home and made pizzas that night with it. We had a blast with them all. Can't wait till our next one.” – Sam Stachon

village bakery Montour Falls, NY

“We had a lot of fun with our classes here! People were eager to get their hands in the dough!

This is one of the busiest weekends here, so we were baking like mad all week in preparation, but had a great turnout! As [our bakery is] a new member of the community (open 9 months!), people were excited to see behind the scenes!”

– Frank VanVolkinburg

breadfarm Bow, WA

“It was a fun and informative day, and I am already looking forward to next year’s Bakery Open House.”

– Teresa Greenway, Attendee

The Crema Café & bakery Seal Beach, CA

“The Open House [at The Crema Café & Bakery] was a wonderful event… Enjoyed the opportunity to see how ‘my’ breads are made!’ – Dan Kee, Attendee



1 Zach Langenkamp shares croissant secrets

with the group. 2 Stretching the dough

out before rolling. 3 Open house attendees

had the opportunity to shape their own

croissants. 4 Everyone is all

smiles for fresh-baked croissants!

... College Station, TX

Roanoke, vA ...

1 A sample of grain and flours used at Bread Craft for bread baking. 2 Alex Eliades shows off a well-scored baguette by picking it up by the lip. 3 Rebecca Yarwood demonstrates how to score baguettes.

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My best friend and I attended the 3rd annual Guild-Wide Bakery Open House sponsored by The Bread Bakers Guild of America. The event took place on Saturday, June 29, 2013. Fifty-one bakeries from around the U.S. and one bakery in Canada participated. This was the first year I was able to attend and was I ever lucky! Breadfarm, one of the participating bakeries near Bow, WA, was located within short driving distance.

Breadfarm is celebrating their 10th anniversary on July 3 of this year. Scott Mangold and his wife, Renee, own the bakery. They graciously opened their bakery to approximately 100 people for the Guild-Wide Bakery Open House. There were four different time slots available for the tour, and we chose the 11:00 am tour.

When we arrived just before 11:00, we were greeted outside by a bakery staff member who signed us in and invited us to try samples of baked goods. I chose a raisin bun and a croissant, and they were both delicious. Other people arrived as we waited for the tour to begin. A short time later Scott Mangold came out of the bakery, told us what to expect, and divided us into three groups. Our group had six people.

My friend and I were in the first group and we were lead through the bakery to the back where the ovens were. We were greeted by baker Sarah Phillips, who explained the baking schedule and answered our numerous questions about the ovens, baking, loading, retarding and slashing. She produced some couched demi-baguettes which

had been shaped by the 9 am tour group. We also saw the results of the first tour group’s scored and baked demi-baguettes. Sarah demonstrated how to score the baguettes and then encouraged us to try. We did our best, slashing and gouging after which she demonstrated how to load the oven and the baguettes were baked. Sarah explained the rotating convection oven, which baked their cookies and other pastries and also showed us the retarder/proofer which controlled the temperature of the proofing dough. Sarah said that sometimes they had up to 1,400 loaves to bake in a day.

Next we were taken to the center of the bakery. There was a large mixer, a temperature controller for metered temperature controlled water and the containers of natural levain as well as 50-pound bags of flour, bowls of dried fruit, a large shaping table, racks of delicious-looking baked breads, as well as large containers of proofing dough. Our next tour guide explained the process of mixing and fermentation and also demonstrated a windowpane test from the finished dough in the mixer.

All of this was going on while we watched another baker weighing out large portions of the mixed dough and placing the dough pieces into containers for further fermentation and folding, after which, he mixed a new batch of dough. We saw how the temperature-controlled water was used and were able to smell fermenting motherdough. We all asked questions about the water, dough temperature, motherdough or natural levain, and the qualities of the flour used.

Renee talked to us for a bit about the beginnings of the bakery. Then she led us to the shaping table in the front of the bakery, where Scott was waiting to instruct us in the art of shaping. Scott is a very knowledgeable baker. I attended one of his classes at The Kneading Conference West 2012, so this wasn’t the first time I was lucky enough to receive instruction from him.

Scott had two large tubs of fermented white dough in the high 70s percent hydration. He weighed pieces for the six of us in the group and then demonstrated how to shape the demi-baguette, while also instructing us on the science of fermentation and bread baking. I was able to get a video of his instruction on the shaping. You can view it on You Tube: search for Northwest Sourdough.

The six of us were able to shape two demi-baguettes with varying amounts of success. We then proceeded to exit the building by way of the front retail sales area which has a beautiful display of bread, pastries, and cookies. On our way out we bought loaves of White Sourdough, Rye, and Chuckanut bread. We said our goodbyes while receiving more cookie samples, a baked demi-baguette loaf, a brochure, and some bakery badges. It was a fun and informative day, and I am already looking forward to next year’s Bakery Open House, as I am hoping to visit Macrina Bakery in Seattle. I would like to thank The Guild for sponsoring the Guild-Wide Bakery Open House for the third year and would also like to thank Scott and Renee for so graciously and generously sharing Breadfarm Bakery with us. ❉

Attending the 3rd Annual guild-wide bakery Open HouseBy Teresa Greenway • • • Guild Member and Owner, Northwest Sourdough

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1 Scott Mangold teaching the art of shaping demi baguettes. 2 Baked bread from Bread Farm. 3 Bread Farm 4 An assortment of bread at Breadfarm. 5 Some of the demi-baguettes shaped by the people attending the open house at Bread Farm. 6 Crumb for Bakery White Sourdough. 7 Sarah demonstrating slashing skills with demi baguettes. 8 Baguettes and other breads.

... bow, wA

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1 Sherlon Butler (left) and Jeanette Gleason help a client, Keith Stribbling, place an order after the bakery tour. 2 Jeanette

Gleason de-pans some freshly made cinnamon rolls for the patrons of the day. 3 The Bus Stop Coffee Shop.

... milwaukee, wI

1 Tarit explaining about the effects of scoring. 2 Newest baker, Nathan, navigating through tight space to the front counter. 3 Tarit Tanjasiri (right), greets visitors at the Crema Café & Bakery’s Open House. Conner Dial mans the welcome table in the background. 4 Loaves of multigrain bread. 5 Baker Chris Young explains about the bread moulder (not shown). 6 Pastry chef Benny Martinez (6 years at Crema, 28 years in the bakery business) making lemon curd. 7 Bakery manager Aubreyanna Robinson gave a bread postcard – hand-drawn by a staff member and showing bread shapes and uses – and a fresh baguette to each tour guest. “Hopefully, they got to share their experience with their friends and family that night with our bread,” Tarit said.

Seal beach, CA ...

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... fenton, mI

Stephanie Woolard , pastry chef at Crust, designed this cake for their Bakery Open House, using Guild colors.

... grand forks, nd

Lincolnton, nC ...

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1 George Kelley pulling Whole Grain Rustic from

the deck oven. 2 Ray Shaw (L) and

Dan Hutchens shaping Norwegian Rye.

3 Open House crowd at Dakota Harvest, tasting

samples and learning about the art of bread baking.

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1 On the morning of the open house, Brian Rollins took wheat from the grain silo, cleaned it through his seed cleaner, then ground it with his Osttiroler mill (pictured). In this photo, he examines a handful of wheat. 2 Guests at Good Wood Pizza Oven’s open house were able to see an oven under construction. The addition of the chimney was delayed until the rains stopped. This area of North Carolina received 11 to 14 inches of rain within a few hours, resulting in flood levels 15+ feet above the normal water level.

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1 Lionel Vatinet gives his open house students instructions on how to shape dough into a boule.

2 Visitors to La Farm Bakery’s open house await directions on shaping.

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1 A bread tasting went along with the group discussion. 2 Leslie Mackie talked about the four types of breads made at Macrina. A lively discussion followed about starters and bigas. 3 Leslie demonstrated the use of Macrina’s semi-automatic loader. Tour attendees responded with a resounding “Wow!”

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... Cary, nC

... Seattle, wA



... Pagosa Springs, CO

... moscow, Id

1 Guests enjoyed the fruit carving demonstration. 2 Fruit carving teacher, Pao Tallman (left), and student. 3 Kathy Keyes gives a pie baking demonstration.

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1 Open House attendees eating pizza, drinking beer from the Moscow Brewing

Company, and listening to live music. 2 Employees and

volunteers making pizza for the party. They used leftover ciabatta dough, local cheese

from the Brush Creek Creamery, and Italian sausage

from Hog Heaven Sausage. 3 “Henry C and the Willards – one of two bands at the open

house – gives an outdoor concert. Nels Peterson, owner

of Panhandle Artisan Bread Company, is on the drums.

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Andrew Mooney talks to dessert blogger Julianne Bayer and another visitor from California, while Tom Ahermerka makes Brioche Buns.

... Charlotte, nC

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1 King’s Kitchen pizza. 2 Sam Stachon mixes

the dough for Super Sprout Seeded Loaf

and 3 loads it into the oven as a Pullman loaf.

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... minneapolis, mn



The long, slow fermentation of this levain-based bread gives it a very complex taste profile and a hearty crust. It is a great bread that can be consumed any time of day.

Prairie Harvest LevainContributed by John McBryde

we initially came up with this simple, rustic bread for a Slow foods picnic a few years ago – an outdoor feast for over 400 people. we made over 50 loaves for this event, and they were a hit. it’s become one of the favorite breads at our bakery.

this earthy sourdough bread is 74% bread flour, 19% whole wheat flour, and 5% rye chops. the rye chops add a chewy texture and just the slightest rye kick, mostly in the aftertaste.

this bread is one that truly plays well with others. it is equally at home with smoked brisket barbecue or peanut butter and jelly. it toasts beautifully. with the addition of raisins and pecans, it makes a breakfast bread that is one of the best out there, and it is also wonderful with a cheese platter.

ProceSS – Prairie Harvest LevainPreferment LevainMixing Type of mixer Spiral 1st speed 3–5 min

Fermentation Length of time 12–18 hr Temperature Room

final doughMixing Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Improved 1st speed 1 min autolyse 20 min 1st speed 2 min 2nd speed 2 min Dough temp 76°F

Fermentation Length of time 3 hr Temperature Room number of folds 2 Timing for folds 1 hr

shaping Divide 681 g preshape Boule Resting time 20 min shape Batard proofing device Wooden board

proof & Bake Final proof time 12 hr Temperature 38°F Oven type Deck scoring End to end steam Yes Total bake 25 min Temperature 435°F Damper open After 7 min

mixing: Do not add salt or levain until after

autolyse.

Variations: This base dough is excellent with the

addition of raisins and pecan pieces. : Soak the raisins in water with cinnamon

and other spices for a day or so, and thoroughly drain before adding. (The drained water can be reduced on the stove for a wonderful topping for pastries, etc.)

: “Eyeball” the amount of pecans and raisins – use just enough to just cover the dough in the mixer.

: Also add a small dusting of flour to counter the wet raisins.

: Mix the pecans and raisins into the dough after the end of the 2nd speed mix. Mix the additions in for no more than a minute on 1st speed.

Prairie harveSt levain

TOTaL FORMuLa Levain FinaL DOugHingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms

Total Flour 100.00 4.149 100.00 0.858 100.00 3.291

Bread Flour* 78.90 3.273 95.92 0.823 74.46 2.450

Whole Wheat Flour 21.10 0.875 4.08 0.035 25.54 0.840

Water 67.50 2.800 40.79 0.350 74.46 2.450

Salt 1.68 0.070 2.12 0.070

Rye Chops † 5.06 0.210 6.38 0.210

Liquid Levain ‡ 3.80 0.158 18.38 0.158

Levain 41.50 1.365

Totals 178.04 7.386 159.17 1.365 224.46 7.386

Total Flour Fermented in Levain 20.68%

Bread Flour 25.14%

Total Dough Weight 7.386 kg Whole Wheat Flour 4.00%

*Hard winter wheat (around 11% protein) †Coursely ground rye berries‡100% hydration

... Oklahoma City, Ok


regional eventS

Photos by Suzannah Gephart, Mark Rosenstein and Barbara Well. The Guild is one of the sponsors of the annual Asheville Bread Festival. The Asheville Bread Festivalm a r c h 2 3 , 2 01 3a s h e V i l l e , n c


regional eventS

The Asheville Bread Festival


technical article

here’s an experiment that i did:

On August 1, 2013, I crumbled salt onto fresh yeast. Within two minutes the salt had drawn out the moisture from the yeast cells and was dissolved. I covered this soup with plastic wrap and left it at room temperature (about 75°F) for 22 hours.

Next day, I scaled out a second dough, the only difference being that the yeast for the second dough was not crumbled into the salt (the formula and method are detailed in the sidebar). The two doughs were not kneaded, they simply received a series of folds in their respective bowls at 30 minute intervals. Three hours later they were divided, pre-shaped, shaped, proofed, and baked. The accompanying photos show the chronology of the experiment. And the results speak clearly and loudly for themselves!

Salt-yeaSt BaGUetteS – Yield: 4 baguettes

Method:1. Gather the ingredients together in a bowl using a rounded

plastic scraper. When the flour is hydrated, give 20–25 folds with the scraper, keeping the dough in the bowl. Desired dough temperature: 75°F.

2. Every 30 minutes, give another series of 20–25 folds with the scraper. Total bulk fermentation: 3 hours.

3. Divide the dough into 350 g pieces; pre-shape into cylinders.

4. When sufficiently relaxed, shape into baguettes, taking care to avoid excess tightening.

5. Bake at 450°F with steam, for about 22 minutes.

SALT-YEAST BAGuETTES

1 Salt and yeast together.

2 Salt crumbled onto yeast.

3 After 1 minute.

4 After 2 minutes.

5 Ingredients brought together by hand.

6 Doughs after 2 hours.

7 After 3 hours, time to divide.

8 Bench rest.

9 45 minutes of final proofing, ready to bake.

Almost all of us have been told that “salt kills yeast.”

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technical article

ProceSS – Salt-Yeast Baguettesfinal doughMixing Type of mixer Spiral Length of mix 20 –25 in bowl folds Dough temp 75°F Mix style Short

Fermentation Length of time 3 hr Temperature 78°F–78°F number of folds 20 –25 in-bowl folds Timing for folds 30 min

shaping Divide 350 g preshape Cylinders Resting time Till relaxed, about 10 min shape Baguettes proofing device Couche

proof & Bake Final proof time 50 min Temperature 75°F Oven type Deck scoring 5–6 slashes steam 3– 4 sec before loading and 2–3 sec after loading Total bake 22 min Temperature 450°F Damper open Once bread shows color – about 20 min

noteSMake two batches of dough: “control” and “experiment.” For the “control” batch, just mix all the ingredients together. For the “experiment” batch make a “salt-yeast mix” the day before:: Crumble salt onto fresh yeast.: Once the salt has dissolved, cover with plastic wrap.: Leave at room temperature (75°F) overnight.

Salt-yeaSt BaGUetteS

Total Dough Weight 1.420 kg

TOTaL FORMuLaingredients % kilograms

Bread Flour* 100.00 0.807

Water 73.00 0.589

Salt 2.00 0.016

Fresh Yeast 1.00 0.008

Totals 176.00 1.420

*11.7% protein

By jeffrey haMelMan

Guild Member and Director of the King Arthur Flour Bakery, Norwich, VT

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bread Lines Co-editors tod Bramble Laverne Mau Dicker

bread Lines designer Kirsten Finstad

formula editorsAllen Cohn, Chief editorsandy Kim-Bernards, Assistant editor

formula Reviewers(Current Issue)Meeghen eatoneric Guilbertspencer LeongPeter schulmanKevin Williams

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