Charlotte du rietz r are Books

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list winter 2014

T e x T i l e s

textile sa mple Books

patterns Costumes dyeing silk weaving emBroidery

ardenne de tizaC, Jean henri d’Les étoffes de la Chine. Tissus & Broderies. Paris, Librairie des Arts Décoratifs, ca 1915. € 950

Folio. Size: 39 x 29 cm. Pp. xii + 52 photogravure plates on heavy paper, sixteen with hand coloured details. The illustra-tions have French captions with the collector’s name. Text and plates loose as issued in the original folder of illustrated yellow boards, cloth spine, cotton ties. A portfolio with rare and treasured ancient Chinese silk and velvet fabrics from the most prominent private French collec-tions. Comprises embroidered clothes and garments including ceremonial gowns, vests, tapestries, collars, etc.

”Toile de Jouy”Clouzot, henriHistoire de la Manufacture de Jouy et de la toile imprimée en France. Two volumes. Paris et Bruxelles, 1928. € 300

4to. Volume one (text): pp. (iv), 205, (1) with 10 plates. Volume two (plates): pp. viii and 87 plates (one is in colour) depicting Jouy Print fabrics from different French collections. Paper cov-ered boards, cloth spine, title labels on upper covers. Some fox-ing to the text but most of the plates are clean and fine. “Toile de Jouy” (fabric of Jouy) originated in France in the late 18th century.

dollFus-ausset, danielMateriaux pour la coloration des étoffes. Two volumes. Paris 1865. € 480

Pp. (iv), 518; viii, 502. Original printed wrappers withbound. Attractive half cloth binding. Rare first edition of this substan-tial reference work on textile dyeing and printing. Comprises a bibliographical dictionary of writings (with notes and several excerpts), and treatises on dyeing and printing, historical notes, source material on the Mulhouse manufacturers 1746–1823, etc. It’s an important source to the history of textile dyeing as well as chemical industries of Europe in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Swedish weaving manualekenmark, Johan erik & systrarna (ekenmark, hedvig Christina, lovisa maria & gustava Fredrika)Afhandling om drällers och dubbla golfmattors tillverkning, med begagnande af harnesk-rustning. Stockholm, Kongl. Ordens-Boktryckeriet, 1828. € 500

Pp. (vi), 112, (2) bihang. With 10 engraved folding plates en-graved by S. Andersson, one small engraved plate and several figures in the text. As issued, uncut in contemporary grey wrappers with some minor stain, traces of old signature on front pastedown. Besides some insignificant small stains it’s a good, crisp copy. First edition. This finely illustrated manual describes the technique for weaving damask cloth and foreign rugs giving details about the loom, the warp, different kinds of yarn, and various weaving methods. Accompanied with lovely plates depicting various patterns.The Ekenmark family was a famous Swedish textile weaver family active during the first half of the 19th century. The sib-lings developed the art of weaving, taught students around the country and compiled several works and manuals in the subject.

Falke, otto vonKunstgeschichte der Seidenweberei. Berlin 1921. € 380

4to. Pp. viii, 50 and 116 heliogravure plates with 484 photo-graphs and 10 coloured plates, and 37 photos and reproductions in the text. Publisher’s printed linen cloth, lightly worn, front inner hinge weak. Second edition of this classic history of silk weaving from around the world. It covers medieval silks from the Mediterranean region, Asia (Mesopotamia, Persian, Cop-tic, Byzantium, etc) and Europe, and it’s development up to the 18th century. Yuan 2200.

Franke, ottoKêng Tschi T’u … Ackerbau und Seidengewinnung in China. Ein Kaiserliches Lehr- und Mahn- Buch. Hamburg, L. Friederichsen & Co., 1913. € 950

Folio. Pp. viii, 194, (ii). With 102 plates (a few loose) and many illustrations in the text. Original cloth, rebacked with old spine preserved, rubbed. Red Asian stamps. First edition.A rare, comprehensive work on the Gengzhitu or “the Proce-dures of Agriculture and Silk-Production” in China. Franke provides a complete translation of the 1696 edition commis-sioned by the Kangxi emperor and furthermore gives a detailed comparison to the Japanese edition of 1676 which was based on the Sung-dynasty edition by Lou Shou. Includes many reproduced illustrations devoted to rice- and silk cultivation. Agriculture and silk production held a special place in China and both occupations were regarded as paramount for the well-being of the state. Included in “Abhandlungen des Hamburgis-chen Kolonialinstitut”. Not in Cordier.

hedde, isidore… Description méthodique des produits divers recueillis dans un voyage en Chine. Saint-Ètienne, Imprimerie de Théo-lier ainé, 1848. € 1 000

Tall 8vo. (iv), 400. With one folding plan (Kou-Sou) and one silk sample pasted in (“Visite de Mr. I. Hedde aux ateliers de Sou-Tchou”). A beautiful uncut and unopened copy, with wide margins. Original printed wrappers, some wear to lower part of spine and slight staining to back cover.

First edition of this comprehensive and influential study on the silk industry in China. Isidor Hedde a ribbon manufacturer from Saint-Etienne was sent on a Chamber of Commerce mis-sion to China to study the silk industry from 1843–46. A huge amount of samples were collected as well as information about paper, seeds, dyes, spinning wheels, etc. connected with the production. Comprises: 1. Catalogue de l’Exposition faite par la Chambre de Commerce de St-Étienne; 2. Exposition des produits de l’industrie sérigène (including “Catalogue des pro-duits de l’industrie sérigène en Chine”); 3. Exposition des pro-duits divers de la Chine. Cordier BS 2492–93. Löwendahl 1547 (slightly diff pag.).

henri, ernst (Ed.)Broderies et décoration populaires Tchéco-Slovaques. Paris, about 1920. € 400

Folio. Pp. (6) including title, table and introduction. With 32 plates (with multiple images) pasted on grey stiff paper. As issued with loose leaves in original portfolio of cloth backed boards, decorated paper label on upper cover, cloth ties. The album contains many different kinds of embroidery found in Slovakia and the Czeck Republic (Bohemian and Moravian). According to the introduction the samples are taken from mu-rals, clothes and other textilies, from the 12th century up to modern times.

holme, CharlesPeasant Art in Austria and Hungary. London, etc, “the Studio”, 1911. € 200

Pp. (x), 54. With more than 800 illustrations, of which some coloured. Contemporary half calf, spine ruled and lettered in gilt, lightly rubbed, beautiful marbled end papers, bookplate. First edition of this comprehensive work. It’s illustrated with pictures of houses, furnitures, pottery, metal work, embroidery, lace, jewellery, dresses etc from the different regions within the countries. For example from Tyrol, Salzburg, Bohemia, Styria, Silesia, Moravia, Galicia, Dalmatia and Bosnia in Austria and Transylvania, Croatia and Slavonia in Hungary.

Promotion of a Japanese silk manufacture[ Japan / silk produCtion]Nishimura Sozayemon. Kyoto, printed by Osaka Kokubunsha, ca 1891. € 380

A fine ephemeral pamphlet to promote one of Japan’s leading silk manufactures for export. Size: 12,5 x 18,5 cm. Pp. (21). With three half tone photo plates, one coloured plate and three dou-ble page colour woodcuts depiciting the dyeing, weaving and embroidery of silk. Original coloured pictorial paper wrappers, silk ties. The Nishimura family founded the company in 1604 and were suppliers of textiles to the Imperial Household.

[ Japan / silk produCtion]. Picture Post Cards. The Silk Industry of Japan. Ten post-cards illustrating the various stages of silk manufacture, from the silk-worm eggs to finished stuffs. Yokohama, Uyeda, about 1900. € 160

Ten photo postcards, each 14 x 9 cm, printed in black & white with hand coloured details. With captions in English and Japa-nese. Preserved in the original printed envelope. The photos depict the various stages of the silk production from the interior of the factory.

[ Japan / textile patterns] [A collection of original designs for kimonos etc.]. Tokyo, Meji 33 (1900). € 1 200

Size: 18 x 25 cm. Pp. (2) with Japanese title and 42 full page woodcut plates with several motifs and designs for fabrics, all printed in delicate colours and gold and silver, each with caption in Japanese. As issued, folded in the oriental fashion. Bound in original paper wrappers illustrated with floral design in pink and green sewn with cotton threads. A very attractive volume mainly devoted to floral designs for textiles.

[ Japan / textile patterns]hayamizu motoaki & kato sumihikoKatubi (Design of textiles). Kyoto, Hayamizu Design, Taisho 6 (1917). € 680

Large 8vo. Size: 19 x 26 cm. Pp. (ii) + 40 double folded leaves with woodblock printed colour illustrations depicting various motifs and designs for textiles. As issued folded and stiched in the Japanese fashion in original pictorial wrappers. Housed in a special made cloth folder. Asian red stamps on front cover, title and colophon. Partly with one small stain at upper margin. Otherwise a good copy of an attractive work.

[ Japan / textile patterns]yamanaka, kiChiBei (Publ.)Moyo Hinagata “Miyako no Nishiki” (Designs for Kyoto brocade). Three volumes. Osaka, Kichirobei Yamanaka, 1890. € 2 400

A collection of Japanese designs for kimonos and obi belts by different artists of Kyoto, complete in three volumes. Size: 18,5 x 25,4 cm. Comprises five pages of introduction in Japanese, one page at end with Japanese colophon, and 186 coloured woodcut plates (of which 185 of designs). Folded in the oriental fashion, stiched as issued in original grey boards decorated with silver pattern. With original printed paper labels on front covers. Sec-ond enlarged edition (first 1866).A wonderful collection of Japanese textile patterns for both women and men, all in fine impression printed in brilliant and subtle colours. A very attractive work in lovely condition.

[ Japan]kosugi, onson (Ed.)Reifuku Chakuyo-zu (Illustrations of ceremonial dress. Ancient period, ca 7th – 10th century). Tokyo, Yoshikawa Kobunkan, Meiji 36 (1903). € 240

Large 8vo. Size: 25 x 18,2 cm. With 14 wood block colour prints of ceremonial costumes. Leaves folded in the Japanese style (fukuro toji), as issued, in original striped paper wrappers with title label on upper cover. This volume, complete in itself, was included in a series of seven volumes with different kinds of Japanese costumes by Honma Hyakuri and others, first pub-lished in the early 19th century.

[manusCript – emBroidery manual] uhl, leopoldArbeits-Buch. (Wien) 1875. € 560

Small quarto. Size: 20 x 24 cm. Lvs 17, one leaf loose. Text in German. With 18 detailed and finely executed drawings with patterns, some in colour and/or gold, to accompany the text protected by tissue guards. Contemporary marbled boards, cloth spine, worn. Bookplate (M. Trentsensky, Wien) on front pastedown.A handwritten manual demonstrating different techniques and patterns for embroidery; lock stiching, stem stiching, chain stiching, whitework embroidery, Armenian fringes, and others. This type of work are rare to find in such a good state.

A delicate recipe book for making silk dyes [manusCript – printing on silk] Tintura per seda. Spain 1771–78. € 6000

A Spanish manuscript in ink on paper containing 20 dyeing recipes for the printing of silk illustrated with 27 samples of silk printed in various colours and gold. Several of the samples are dated. Contemporary vellum, marbled edges, two braided ties (one knot missing). A most attractive, and very well preserved practical manual.

medhurst, walter henryA Glance at the Interior of China, Obtained during a Journey through the Silk and Green Tea Countries. London, John Snow, Paternoster Row, 1850. € 4 900

Pp. (ii), 192. Editor’s note tipped in. With 5 woodcut plates and 6 woodcut plans or maps (a couple with small tears), and 8 full page woodcut illustrations in the text. Occasionally some mi-nor staining. Contemporary cloth, boards blindpressed with a pagoda within decorated borders, title lettered on spine (small tear to upper front hinge), lightly rubbed and faded. First edi-tion was published at Shanghai 1849, this is a remainder which was sent to London and issued with a new title page. In the spring of 1845 Medhurst made an adventureous journey into the interior of China, through the provinces of Zheijang and Jiangsu. His account begins with a tour guide giving advice regarding clothes, behavior, food, transport, etc. It continues with a diary of the journey giving an accurate picture of the country and the everyday life of the people along the route. Much of the work is devoted to the process of silk production together with illustrations of different tools and equipment be-ing used. Rare. Cordier BS 2117–18. Cf Löwendahl 1009 (calls for 10 plates only).

riBoud, krishnà (Ed.)Le motif floral dans les tissus Moghols ine XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles. Paris 1995. € 220

Folio. Pp. (12). With 26 plates depicting lovely pieces of fab-rics. Parallel text in French and English. First edition limited to 1200 copies, of which this is no. 1031. As issued with loose leaves in the original paper portfolio with colour decoration on front cover. A study about textiles with floral motifs of various Mughal In-dian fabrics from the collection at AEDTA (Association pour l’Etude et la Documentation des Textiles d’Asie). It comprises tent panels, carpet fragments, summer carpets, wall hangings and court girdles (“Patkã”) made of silk and cotton from the 17th and 18th centuries. Interesting and detailed descriptions by Amina Okada and technical analyses of each specimen by Marie-Hélène Guelton. A mint copy.

riBoud, krishnà (Ed.)Soieries bouddhiques chinoises XIVe – XVIIIe siecle / Chinese Buddhist Silks. Paris 1996. € 450

Folio. Pp. 23 + 4 with bibliographical references. With 28 col-oured plates on glossy paper, depicting exquisite pieces and fragments of textiles. Parallel text in French and English. As issued with loose leaves in original decorated paper portfolio. First edition limited to 1000 copies, of which this is no. 461. A beautiful research work about Chinese religious textiles pub-lished by AEDTA (Association pour l’Etude et la Documenta-tion des Textiles d’Asie). It explains the iconographic, technical and historical aspects of these rare specimens. The collection includes mantles, tapestries, covers, fragments etc of embro-diery silk with Buddhism motifs from 16th and 18th centuries. Includes descriptions of needlelooping and other embroidery weaving techniques.

sChÜtzenBerger, paulDie Farbstoffe mit besonderer Berücksichtigung ihrer An-wendung in der Färberei und Druckerei. Two volumes. Ber-lin, Robert Oppenheim, 1868–70. € 750

Pp. (vi), 544 + one folding engraved plate, 12 woodcuts and 10 plates with 40 mounted textile samples; pp. (ii), 624 + 26 woodcuts, 10 plates with 38 mounted textile samples and one additional plate with one sample (no. 41 belonging to volume one). Complete but both titles misbound (at pp. 448–9 in vol-ume one and pp. 496–7 in volume two). Contemporary half calf on marbled paper covered boards, spines with four raised bands lettered and decorated in gilt. Marbled edges. Old ownership signature and library stamps on front end papers. A handsome copy.First German edition of “Traité des matieres colorantes” (Paris 1866). It’s a comprehensive study of dyes with particular regard to their application in dyeing and printing, as well as with tex-tile fibers and their treatment. The text is accompanied with 79 (usually 78) small coloured fabric samples.Paul Schützenberger (1829–97), a renowned French chemist, primarly known for his research work on textile dyeing and his proposed technological innovations. Besides studies of the nat-ural dyes he was also interested in new synthetic dye molecules for industrial use. ”This remarkable work, … was the most complete collection of information then available on dyes and their application to tex-tiles.” See Centenaire Paul Schutzenberger, Paris 1931, p. 74. Cf Poggendorff iii, 1217.

sylwan, viviInvestigation of Silk from Edsen-gol and Lop-nor. Stock-holm 1949. € 200

4to. Pp. x, 180. With 27 plates, of which three in colour, and many textual illustrations. Sewn as issued, entirely uncut, in printed wrappers. The report treats textiles which were collect-ed during Folke Bergman’s excavations at Edsen-gol in Inner Mongolia in 1930–1 and by Sven Hedin and Bergman’s excava-tions in the Lop Desert in Eastern Turkestan in 1934. (“Reports from the scientific expedition to the north-western provinces of China under the leadership of Dr. Sven Hedin, 32”).

[textile sample Books – British and FrenCh]. [A collection of textile designs on printed cottons]. 1830’s – 1860’s. € 2 200

The collection contains remains from two albums with numer-ous mounted textile samples on 80 leaves, each kept in plastic folder. The samples, mainly printed cottons, are pasted on stiff paper with numbers and annotations in ink; French and Eng-lish. Some samples are gone.Comprises: 39 loose leaves (33 x 26 cm) with French samples pasted on both sides. Some have annotations in French and are dated 1862. Another 16 sample leaves (about 20 x 31 cm) have English annotations and some are dated 1835–36. Further more there are 25 leaves (27 x 37 cm) with English text, including one with original designs and with a bookplate “Cocksey”. Many of the samples have cone motifs and might be from Lancashire. Housed in a specially made cloth box.

wallaCe, alex anderReport on the Culture of the Japanese Silkworm, Bombyx Yama-Mai, in 1867–68, in England. Colchester, Benham and Harrison, 1869. € 280

Pp. 64. Original printed wrappers. A report about some experi-ments to rear the Japanese oak-feeeding silk-moth “Bombyx Yama-Mai” in Europe. The silk of the Yama-Mai is a little less fine and strong than that of the mulberry silkworm “Bombyx mori”.

wardle, thomas sirKashmir: Its New Silk Industry, with some Account of its Natural History, Geology, Sport, Etc. London and Leek 1904. € 220

Pp. xx, 363. With front portrait and 45 full page plates. Errata slip tipped in. Publisher’s red cloth, lettered in gilt. First edi-tion of a comprehensive account of the Seriecultural operations in Kashmir.Thomas Wardle (1831–1909) was the son of a noted silk dyer in Macclesfield. Thomas devoted his life to the silk industry and recieved many honours, including a knighthood. His lengthen research into the wild silks and dye stuffs of India helped to overcome many problems and increased the use of raw materi-als throughout India and Europe.