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Lookout Qatar38 This and That A new collection of Apple Watch
from
Herms; The Temple and what it represents; The Freya from
Mulberry; Daniela Karnuts goes Elizabethan; Louis Vuittons changed
look;
Aigner has a Doha bag; and Montblancs e-Strap.
44 Market Report The regions designers have gone off-kilter this
fall with bright colors,
unexpected materials and quirky inspirations.
46 Food Matters Indian celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor
serves traditional dishes, and plays with our taste buds, at the
Signature Meli Doha.
48 On Heritage Pal Zileri gets new form of patronage,
the preservation of a simple sentiment that the Italians just
cut suits better.
54 Art Matters The Frieze Art Fair aims to embrace a
larger fan following, moving away from the niche group of
wealthy foundations and private institutions.
Arena Qatar74 On the Verge Fire Station announces the names of
20 artists who have been selected for its maiden Artist in
Residence program. What follows is a smorgasbord of media and
messages.
80 On Art The British contemporary artist Anish
Kapoor turns the very controlled gardens of the Chteau de
Versailles upside down.
MIDDLE EASTERN MIX Thomas Zipp's work will be at the Frieze Fair
in London next month.
Page 54
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T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
Stately SilhouetteStruck by the color palette consistency
between her fall collection and the old-world
furnishings of Burghley House, the designer Daniela Karnuts
decided to shoot her latest campaign at the 16th-century
Elizabethan abode. The fashion label Safiyaa, named after
Karnuts daughter, is a staple in Qatari wardrobes, favored for
its lavish evening pieces.The latest collections bold jeweled tones
are anchored with earthy textures and find symmetry
with the artworks and antique furniture pieces that fill the
halls of Burghley House. Every piece in the house has its place and
tells its own story and it gave
meaning to what I wanted to present in this collection, Karnuts
says. Signature elements of long capes, dramatic jacquards and
feather appliqus are contrasted with Karnuts new perspectives drawn
from nature: sequins and stone laces. Silhouettes are
sleek and edgy, featuring drop shoulders, cut-out backs and
asymmetric lengths, while the bold capes are fit to throw over
anything, she quips. The collection
also marks the introduction of daywear to the usually
evening-focused repertoire, all of which are still handcrafted in
the labels private atelier.
It has evolved into an ongoing dialogue with women who think as
I do, Karnuts says. DEBRINA ALIYAH
The Horse and the CarriageA new collection of Apple Watch in
stainless steel
with finely crafted leather bands in distinctive styles from
Herms has hit the market, and will soon make
its way to the Middle East. It is a collaboration of two greats,
one that merges
Apples unparalleled product innovation with the heritage,
iconography and craftsmanship of Herms,
creating a unique expression of Apple Watch.Apple and Herms make
very different products, but they
reflect the deep appreciation of quality design, said Jonathan
Ive, Apples chief design officer. Both companies
are motivated by a sincere pursuit of excellence and the desire
to create something that is not compromised.
Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Herms executive vice president in charge of
artistic direction, sees this as the establishment
of an alliance in excellence, like horse and carriage, a perfect
team. SINDHU NAIR CL
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50 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
Market Report
Straight Out of ArabiaThe regions designers have gone
off-kilter
this fall with bright colors, unexpected materials and quirky
inspirations.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
Clockwise from top left: Arwa Al Banawi jacket, QR1,044. Belquis
belt, QR600. Braided Tales bracelet, QR295. Dima
Ayad dress, QR3,680. Deema ring, QR503. Ceecode bag,
QR2,600.
Lookout Qatar
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51September - October 2015
Clockwise from top left: Dina Khalif dress, QR1,929, Endemage
pants,
QR2,461, House of Nomad crop top, QR1,004, , LAfshar clutch,
QR3,633,
Nathalie Trad clutch, QR5,160, Mochi headband, QR100 ,
Madiyah Al Sharqi dress, QR9,222, Kamushki pendant, QR25,532
CLO
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DIN
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; HO
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; L'A
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; NA
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MO
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54 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
Lookout Qatar
things Italian. After a short glance at the numbers, the
investors directed their attention to the intangible values that
would shape the brands future. We were taken by surprise. They
wanted to hear about the aesthetics, the creative work, and how we
would go about preserving the DNA of the brand, rather than the
financial projection we had prepared, Krieger recalls.
The new stakeholders avidity on going back to the roots of the
company and mapping a new direction that develops and preserves the
brands strength. Relatively unfettered by financial expectations,
the strategy
allowed time to rebuild Pal Zileri in a direction that is solid
and enduring. Italian companies are
increasingly outsourcing manufacturing processes at lower cost,
but our investors are absolute on the principle of Italian
craftsmanship, which is what our brand truly represents, Krieger
says. The idea to connect the future with the strongest skillset of
the brand the craft and know-how in menswear came to life through
the Avant Craft concept that relaunched Pal Zileri in January this
year. Avant Craft was proposed to bridge the gap
IN THE WORLD OF COUTURE, theres an implicit relationship between
designers and a few selected clients. These are buyers who amass
entire collections as gestures of appreciation toward the work,
thus allowing designers to continue their creative pursuit. It is,
of course, a borrowed practise from the world of art, where
patronage is a familiar concept, albeit an archaic notion. But the
rise in global wealth has extended a new form of patronage to the
fashion industry, one that is less ornamental but more about giving
old soul and culture a new frontier. In the case of Pal Zileri, it
is the preservation of a simple sentiment: that the Italians just
cut suits better. For his maiden meeting with the new investors who
had taken a majority share in Pal Zileri last year, the brands
creative director, Mauro Ravizza Krieger, and his team had prepared
a presentation of financial information to impress. Mayhoola, the
Qatar-based investment vehicle, made news in 2012 by acquiring
Valentino and now with a stake in Pal Zileri, it was clearly a
demonstration of the love for all
On Heritage
The New DirectionA new form of patronage is
providing a lifeline to traditional craftsmanship.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
CHANGE IS A CONSTANT From top: Mauro Ravizza Kreigers new vision
at Pal Zileri is a fresh start for the brand; blue ponyskin blazer;
the Messenger bag is customizable with personal initials; red
turtleneck sweater in lana-seta-mohair IS inspired by Andy Warhol.
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55September - October 2015
between the old high-hand Italian tradition and the contemporary
voice permeating the world of menswear. Starting from all the
classic cuts, the brand moves into a high-fashion aesthetic by
introducing new ways to wear jackets and suits. Silhouettes become
less formal and new categories alluding to an urban lifestyle are
introduced.
We start from the past, but with modern techniques like taping,
bonding and laser cut. Its utilizing the brands sartorial finesse
to produce collections that are relevant to the modern man, Krieger
says. While theres a rush for many European labels to define
themselves as purveyors of traditional tailoring, the new Pal
Zileri wants to bring the term Made In Italy to the next
frontier.
This is a new chapter in which modern technologies respond to
contemporary needs of the well-informed man, with sensibilities,
proportions and techniques executed by the hands of Italian
craftsmen, says Paolo Roviera, the brands CEO.
The fall collection hitting stores this season marks the debut
of the new philosophy: a wardrobe with all the classic hits, but
none of the rigid air. A traditional jacket is paired with stretch
leather pants, wool sport jackets are constructed through taping
with not a stitch or button in sight, leather is bonded with
flannel on shirts, and suits that eschew ties paired with printed
shirts. Thats the new attitude in mens dressing. A play between
formal and informal, creating synergy between all the pieces in the
wardrobe, Krieger says. In true Italian manner, some decadent
styles make appearances, but with a sense of tasteful restraint: a
blue pony-hair blazer and a satin-collar smoking jacket are pared
down with turtleneck tops and leather amphibious boots.
Butter-soft bags take the place of briefcases, while a small
selection of accessories, including shoes, are made in Italys famed
leather region, Veneto. Inside the jacket, the artisan touch that
reminds the wearer of its origins is a special label carrying the
name of the tailor who spent hours constructing the garment.
Pal Zileris three decade of history also ascribe to quality, as
its archive unearthed a comprehensive collection of fabrics dating
back to the 1970s, when the brand came to life. When Krieger came
on board in 2014, the company had narrowed its focus so closely to
its manufacturing skills that the archive had become secondary. A
curious incident led to the discovery of the archive book, which
Krieger is basing the upcoming collection on. Old motifs, materials
and colors will be restructured and reinterpreted to suit our new
discreet sensibility, Roviera says.
With the actualization of a solid creative vision, the brand has
begun work on rejuvenating its boutiques worldwide, ten of which
are located in this region. The Middle East is a key market where
Pal Zileri is very well-known for its heritage and craftsmanship,
Riviera says. One of the standalone boutiques in Dubai will be the
first to see a new concept this fall, and it is a steamship
initiative from here on to promote the dawn of Avant Craft. In the
brands newly minted Milanese headquarters at Via Morimondo, an area
familiar to the fashion collective, Krieger presented his second
narrative for Spring 2016. The runway begins as a moving conveyor
belt as the models presented before they walk the show. Exuding a
futuristic vibe that is so sharp and yet still human, the new
frontier for the modern man is looking bright.
CONCEPT RELAUNCH Above: Paolo Roviera first interned at the
brand 15 years ago, and now he rejoins as CEO; looks from the Fall
2015 collection.
