Tactical Homesteadingby flippydidit

After some brainstorming and much research, I've been working on some solutions for members of our growing prepper community. I served as an Army Infantry soldier for 10 years, and am a student of permaculture. It seemed a natural transition for me to put the two together to find solutions. Namely, how do we apply permaculture principles to homestead defense (or vice-versa). One of the primary goals in permaculture is to gain the most output and utility with the least input. It's where our ability to plan and design can really maximize the fruits of our labor (pun intended). This is a topic that I feel receives almost zero innovation beyond the obvious internet answers. We've all undoubtedly seen the home hardening ideas that float around the forums and eBooks. Not to say that those concepts are without merit. Many are extremely viable and useful tools in our toolbox. What I propose is to really address the concerns of homesteaders and preppers. How do we maximize our efforts?

These solutions are presented as a combination of the best options to defend the homestead, produce food, and be of minimal cost. I'm leaving out some of the more technical details about permaculture and tactics. If anyone has detailed questions, they can ask me, but I didn't want to confuse anyone with detail overload.

The first solution is what I call the Tactical Permaculture Swale or Tacti-swale The only reason I added Tactical was for the comedy element.

This barrier can be installed on almost any homestead (even some suburban ones). Should you be confronted with officials, simply use the two terms they cannot argue with. Flood and erosion control. That is the purpose of a swale in civil engineering. It just happens to tie in conveniently with our goals. It can be scaled to any size the homesteader requires.

The Tacti-swale can be developed further by the homesteader. The ditch can be filled with water to create a small moat (although I'd see it more as a firebreak). Fencing can be installed on the berm or before the ditch, or both. Your imagination is your only limit. To increase the berm side with local resources, I'd recommend creating a small pile of cut logs or branches where the berm will be installed. Then when the ditch is dug, the excavated dirt can be placed on the wood to increase the

berm's stability, fertility and height/width. You may also want to throw a layer or two of manure on the berm as it is created. The addition of security cameras/alarms will increase the effectiveness.

I've used the concept of the military antitank ditch for a specific reason. It's not to stop main battle tanks, although it can. The idea is that if you plan for tanks, you will deny almost all vehicle traffic. Our goal as a prepper or homesteader is to secure our property for the safety of our family. Being able to keep vehicles from driving up to our home unannounced is imperative. All vehicles.

So to review this barrier system, let's cover what it accomplishes with minimal cost, and primarily local (or even site-specific) resources.

Denies vehicle traffic Severely limits foot traffic Creates flood and erosion control Creates privacy Produces perennial fruit, nut and berry harvests Provides ballistic protection to defenders Creates micro-climates and polyculture planting which encourages plant/wildlife habitat

relationships A highly effective barrier that is rarely identified for what it is by civilians A barrier that requires minimal outside resources (only the plant cultivars you choose) Provides a water storage/harvesting capability Can provide homestead fire protection/prevention Once in place, it requires little to no maintenance; only harvesting the deliciousness!

The only foreseeable cost outlay for the homesteader would be for excavation work (which can be done with a tractor, or with rented heavy equipment), the cost of any plants that cannot be found on the property (e.g., blackberries), and any fencing/cameras/alarms/irrigation the homesteader wants added. Let's move on...

The second solution we can add to our homestead is the Tactical Keyhole Garden (more tactical humor). We're taking the permaculture concept of keyhole gardening, and integrating cover and concealment for the homesteader. Instead of simply saving space in the garden area, the keyhole garden now also provides ballistic protection.

There isn't much more to this concept other than taking a standard keyhole garden, and making it a raised bed version. This type of garden can also be scaled to the size required.

So to review this garden/barrier, let's cover what it accomplishes with minimal cost, and primarily local (or even site-specific) resources.

Provides ballistic protection to defenders Creates a raised bed for gardening on otherwise poor soil A highly effective barrier that is rarely identified for what it is by others A barrier that requires minimal outside resources (only the raised bed lumber/blocks) Enables the homesteader to exit the garden at different points while behind cover Utilizes a permaculture concept that maximizes gardening space Raises the bed to a more comfortable gardening height Once in place, it requires little to no maintenance

The only foreseeable cost outlay for the homesteader would be for excavation work (which can be done with a tractor and by hand), the cost of any seeds/plants, and any materials desired to create the raised bed.

Our next homesteading tool is a variation on hugelkultur. The traditional hugelkultur bed is quite tall (around 7ft). However, this bed can be scaled to any height or width required. It is generally installed in an S design to create micro-climates for the area it serves.

Tactically speaking, the S design is acceptable to use, but any design that allows for covered and concealed movement is appropriate. This design idea is really only limited to your imagination.

Ideally, it would be used to channelize intruders or to provide covered and concealed corridors of movement to the homesteaders/defenders. All of this, and the benefit of incredible gardening bed designs.

To review this garden/barrier, let's cover what it accomplishes with minimal cost, and primarily local (or even site-specific) resources.

Provides ballistic protection to defenders Denies vehicle traffic Severely limits foot traffic Creates a raised bed for gardening on otherwise poor soil A highly effective barrier that is rarely identified for what it is by others A barrier that requires minimal outside resources (only the plants/shrubs/trees, dirt and logs) Enables the homesteader to enter/exit the garden at different points while behind cover Utilizes a permaculture concept that maximizes gardening space Creates micro-climates and polyculture planting which encourages plant/wildlife habitat

relationships Creates privacy Can produce perennial fruit, vegetable, nut and berry harvests Raises the bed to a more comfortable gardening height Once in place, it requires little to no maintenance Can channelize intruders and wildlife Can be designed to suit the homesteader

The only foreseeable cost outlay for the homesteader would be for excavation work (which can be done with a tractor and by hand) and the cost of any seeds/plants.

Everyone seems to want a bunker. Few people usually have the money for a sizable one. Out of empathy for those wanting their very own bunker, but with limited finances, I've included one of my own design. You'll need some pallets, concrete, 55 gallon drums and some rebar. There are many ways you can fill the pallets with concrete, but it's important to use the rebar to reinforce the concrete. After some time the pallets will rot and the only thing holding the concrete together will be the rebar. Stapling cardboard under and around the pallets will make it easier to fill the pallets with concrete.

Ensure that all exposed openings are screened with mesh and well secured. This will help to keep vermin from moving in. It also prevents grenades from being tossed into the opening. Both of these would suck. One would suck much more. Just saying.....

To be sure that this bunker is stable, all pallets and drums must be filled with concrete. For that reason, it's best to make sure that each component is exactly where you want it BEFORE the concrete is added. The corner of each roof pallet must rest on a concrete filled drum. Covering the pallets and drums with plastic sheeting before back-filling will lengthen the life span of the components.

This is obviously not a very large bunker. Most people will have to crawl into it. However, it can be made taller or wider by adding more pallets and drums. If you decide to make it taller by stacking drums, my advice is to use a galvanized fence post in the center of the drums. Place the first drum, put the post in the center and pour the concrete. Ensure a foot or two of post extends above the

bottom drum. Cut a hole in the next drum and feed it over the post. Then pour the concrete into the next drum. I recommend that you think of the pallets and drums as the structure only. The majority of the ballistic protection should come from the soil that is back-filled around and on top of the structure.

To review this bunker, let's cover what it accomplishes with minimal cost, and primarily local resources.

Provides ballistic protection to defenders A highly effective barrier that is unlikely to be identified for what it is by others A barrier that requires minimal outside resources (only the pallets, drums, rebar and concrete) Enables the homesteader to defend the homestead while behind cover with overhead protection Once in place, it requires little to no maintenance (though it won't last forever) The cool factor of being the only person in the neighborhood with a bunker (hopefully) Can be planted on and around which increases the utility Can be sized to the location and installed at the pace of the homesteader (time/money available)

The only foreseeable cost outlay for the homesteader would be for excavation work (which can be done with a tractor and by hand), the cost of any seeds/plants, and the materials used to create the bunker.

The tire wall can be used to create retaining walls, revetments and many other structural forms that would otherwise be much more costly for the homesteader. It uses the rammed earth method to create extremely strong wall structure. When used for load bearing applications, the tire wall far surpasses even steel reinforced concrete. Consider the low cost and versatility of the tire wall when building generator enclosures, bunkers, pole barns or other homestead outbuildings.

To review the tire wall, let's cover what it accomplishes with minimal cost, and primarily local resources.

Provides moderate ballistic protection to defenders A highly effective barrier that is unlikely to be identified for what it is by others unless left bare A barrier that requires minimal outside resources (only the tires, dirt and rebar)

Enables the homesteader to defend the homestead while behind cover Once in place, it requires little to no maintenance Creates thermal mass which stabilizes temperature fluctuations within/near the wall Absorbs sound and deadens the noise generated by machinery Can be sized to the location and installed at the pace of the homesteader (time/money available) Able to be back-filled directly against it without moisture/vapor barriers

The only foreseeable cost outlay for the homesteader would be for excavation work (which can be done with a tractor and by hand), rebar, and the tires (which can usually be acquired for free from tire shops that must pay for disposal).

Note The construction of rammed earth tire walls are VERY labor intensive, requiring repeated pounding of the dirt into the tires (sledgehammer). Carefully consider this aspect before beginning this type of construction.

Here are more tips for inexpensively increasing your homestead security.

- Tactical Cat Eyes

The homesteader places glow-in-the-dark tape on the tree. It is on the side of the tree opposite the perimeter. Others cannot see it coming onto the property. The homesteader can see it from the home. Anyone passing in front of the tape at night will black out the glow. This will assist the homesteader in detecting late night visitors/intruders. The tape can also be used to mark a trail to important locations (bunkers, LP/OP's, shop, pump house, etc). The homesteader can then walk to the location without the use of flashlights which might betray his/her location.

This is a low-cost and low-tech addition that the homesteader can install. There are no batteries, no moving parts, and the sun will recharge the tape every day. How's that for EMP proof?

As homesteaders we will invariably find ourselves up to our kneecaps in stumps. What are our choices for dealing with them? Should we leave them to rot (which can take decades)? Should we pay to grind them down? Maybe we should dig around them until we can pull them up? Some people drill a hole in the center and dump in potassium nitrate to speed the decomposition. There must be better choices for us. Here are a few I like.

Take advantage of the root system the tree has developed over many human lifetimes. Drill out enough of the core to plant a new tree (one that is at least more useful than a stump!). Place some soil in the cavity, and plant your new sapling. The roots from the new tree will be able to utilize the massive root structure already in place. This can result in massive growth from the sapling, since less energy is expended in sending out roots of it's own.

You may also decide to use the same method for employing more thorned shrubs and bushes. It will make them much more resistant to vehicle and pedestrian traffic.

Stumps can also be used as fence-posts. They're already dug in deep and will be there for a long time. Simply string up some barbed wire or use the logs you've felled to create split-rail fencing. These types of fences are going to be very strong and durable. And look on the bright side, you won't be digging holes or pounding T-posts.

I hope I've given the homesteader some useful tools, or at least sparked imaginations. Building the self-sufficient or self-reliant homestead isn't easy, but can be highly rewarding. Keep up the hard work. It is with great anticipation that I look forward to the tips posted by others in our community.

Nate