1. Broude, N. Miriam Schapiro and ‘Femmage’: Reflections on the Conflict between Decoration and Abstraction in Twentieth-Century Art. In: Broude, N., Garrard, M.D. (eds) Feminism and Art History: Questioning the Litany. New York: Harper & Row, 1982, pp.315-330.

2. Eastop, D. Outside In: Making Sense of the Deliberate Concealment of Garments within Buildings. Textile: the Journal of Cloth and Culture. Vol.4:3, Fall 2006, pp.238-254.

3. Doy, G. Drapery: Classicism and Barbarism in Visual Culture (Chapter 4, The fold: baroque and postmodern draperies). London and New York: I.B. Tauris, 2002, pp.139-175.

4. Barber, E.W. Women’s Work: the First 20,000 Years (Chapter 8, Land of Linen). New York and London: W.W. Norton and Co., 1994, pp.185-206.

5. Kriger, C.E. ‘Guinea Cloth’: Production and consumption of Cotton Textiles in West Africa before and during the Atlantic Slave Trade. In: Riello, G., Parthasarathi, P. (eds) The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 1200- 1850. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2009, pp.105-126.

6. Dormer, P. The Ideal World of Vermeer’s Little Lacemaker. In: Thackara, J. (ed) Design After Modernism. London: Thames & Hudson, 1988, pp.135-144.

7. Lemire, B. Shifting Currency: the Culture and Economy of the Secondhand Trade in England c. 1600-1850. In: Palmer, A., Clark, H. (eds) Old Clothes, New Looks: Secondhand Fashion. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2004, pp.29-48.

8. Sykas, P. Re-threading: notes Towards a History of Sewing Thread in Britain. In: Brooks, M.M. Textiles Revealed: Object lessons in historic textile and costume research. London: Archetype Publications Ltd., 2000. pp.123-136.

9. Butler Greenfield, A. A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the quest for the Color of Desire. London: Harper Collins, 2005.

10. Stone-Ferrer, L. Spun Virtue, the Lacework of Folly, and the world Wound Upside-Down: Seventeenth-Century Dutch Depictions of Female Handwork. In: Weiner, A.B., Schneider, J. (eds) Cloth and Human Experience. Washington and London: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1989, pp.215-242.

11. Kelley, V. The Interpretation of Surface: boundaries, systems and their transgression in clothing and domestic textiles, c.1880-1939. Textile: the Journal of Cloth and Culture Vol.7:2, July 2009, pp.216-235

12. Palmer, A. 2008. Untouchable: creating desire and knowledge in museum costume and textile exhibitions. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture Vol.12:1, March 2008, pp.31-63.

13. Maynard, M. 2007. The interaction of textile and text: the conservation of a mid-16th-century chemise binding. In: Hayward, M., Kramer, E. (eds) Textiles and Text: Re-Establishing the Links between Archival and Object- Based Research. Postprints of Third Annual Conference of AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies. London: Archetype Publications Ltd., 2005.

14. Scheuing, R. Penelope and the unraveling of history. In: Deepwell, K. (ed) New Feminist Art Criticism. Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press, 1995.

15. Pastoreau, M. (trans. Gladding, J.) The Devil’s Cloth [The Devil and His Striped Clothes, 13th-16th Centuries]. New York: Columbia University Press, 1991, pp.7-34.

16. Koslin, D. Value-Added Stuffs and Shifts in Meaning: An Overview and Case Study of Medieval Textile Paradigms (Chapter 14). In: Koslin, D.G., Snyder, J.E. (eds) Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, Texts, Images. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2002, pp.235-249.

17. Kramer, E. Master or Market? The Anglo-Japanese Textile Designs of Christopher Dresser. Journal of Design History Vol.19:3, Autumn, 2006, pp.197-214.

18. Buckley, C. Made in Patriarchy: Toward a Feminist Analysis of Women and Design. In: Margolin, V. (ed) Design discourse: History, Theory, Criticism. Chicago and London: The University of Chicago Press, 1989, pp.251-262.

19. Brunton, J. Annie Garnett: The Arts and Crafts Movement and the Business of Textile Manufacture. Textile History Vol.32:2, 2001, 217-238.

20. Styles, J. Threads of Feeling: The London Foundling Hospital’s Textile Tokens, 1740–1770. London: Paul Holberton Publishing, 2010, pp.63-69

1. Brett, D. Rethinking Decoration: Pleasure & Ideology in the Visual Arts [Chapter 6, Towards a poetics of workmanship – Section: Warp and weft: the text-tile tectonic]. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005, pp.222-232.

2. Fletcher, K. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys (Chapter 1, Material Diversity). London: Earthscan Publications Ltd., 2008, pp.3-40.

3. Farrer, J., Fraser, K. (2009). Conscience clothing: polarisation of the fashion textile market. Textiles - Quarterly magazine of the Textile Institute Vol. 2009:1, pp.10-13.

4. McDonough, W., Braungart, M. From Cradle to Cradle: remaking the way we make things (Chapter 1, A Question of Design). New York: North Point Press, 2002, pp.17-44.

5. Hawley, J. (2008). Economic impact of textile clothing. In:Hethorn, J., Ulasewicz, C. (eds) Sustainable fashion – why now? : a conversation about issues, practices and possibilities. New York: Fairchild Books, 2008, pp.207-232.

6. Albers, A. The Pliable Plane: Textiles in Architecture. Perspecta Vol.4, 1957, pp.36-41.

7. Slater, K. Environmental Impact of Textiles: production, processes and protection. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute, 2003.

8. Tranberg Hansen, K. Helping or Hindering?: Controversies around the International Second-Hand Clothing Trade. Anthropology Today Vol.20:4, August 2004, pp.3-9.

9. Kopytoff, I. The cultural biography of things: commoditization as process. In: Appadurai, A. (ed) The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986, pp.64-91.

10. Douglas, H. The Feel for Rugged Texture. In: Schoeser, M., Boydell, C. (eds) Disentangling Textiles: Techniques for the study of designed objects. London: Middlesex University Press, 2002, pp.177-184, v-viii.

11. Nadeau, C. Fur Nation: From the Beaver to Brigitte Bardot (Chapter 1, My fur Ladies [the fabric of a nation]). London: Routledge, 2001, pp.7-27.

12. Norris, L. Creative Entrepreneurs: The Recycling of Second- Hand Indian Clothing. In: Palmer, A., Clark, H. Old Clothes, New Looks. Oxford: Berg, 2005, pp.119-134.

13. Maharaj, S. Textile Art – Who Are You? In: Jefferies, J. ed. Reinventing Textiles (Vol. 2, Gender and Identity). Winchester: Telos Art Publishing, 2001, pp.7-10.

14. Rivoli, P. The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy: an Economist Examines the Markets, Power, and Politics of World Trade (Part 1, Sections 1-3). New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2009, pp.1-57.

15. Wood Conroy, D. An Archaeology of Tapestry. In: Bachmann, I., Scheuing, R. (eds) Materials Matters: The Art and Culture of Contemporary Textiles. Canada: YYZ Books, 1998, pp.55-60.

16. Emery, I. (2nd ed) The Primary Structures of Fabrics: An Illustrated Classification (Foreword; Organization and Use of the Book; Key to the Classification). Washington, DC: Textile Museum in collaboration with Thames and Hudson, 1980, xi-xiii; xv-xviii; xix-xxvi.

17. Scheper-Hughes, N. Anatomy of a quilt. The Gees’ Bend Freedom Quilting Bee Anthropology Today Vol.19:4, August 2003, pp.15-21.

18. Sherlock, M.P. Piecework: Home, Factory, Studio, Exhibit, In: Livingstone, J., Ploof, J. (eds) The Object of Labor: Art, Cloth, and Cultural Production. Chicago: School of the Art Institute of Chicago Press, 2007, pp.1-30.

19. Schoeser, M. World Textiles: A Concise History (Chapter 3, Trade and Trends 750 BC to AD 600). London: Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2003, pp.50-73.

20. Mitchell, V. Textiles, Text and Techne. In: Harrod, T. (ed) Obscure Objects of Desire: reviewing the crafts in the twentieth century. London: Crafts Council, 1997, pp.324-332.

1. Berzowska, J. Electronic Textiles: Wearable Computers, Reactive Fashion, and Soft Computation. Textile: the Journal of Cloth and Culture Vol.3:1, March 2005, pp.58-74.

2. Black, S. Trends in smart medical textiles. In: van Langenhove, L. (ed) Smart textiles for medicine and healthcare: materials, systems and applications. Cambridge:Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute, 2007, pp.3-26.

3. McCarty, C. NASA: Advancing Ultra-performance. In: McQuaid, M. Extreme Textiles: Designing for High Performance. Princeton Architectural Press, 2005, pp. 138-161.

4. Peacock, E. The contribution of X-radiography to the conservation and study of textile/leather composite archaeological footwear recovered from the Norwegian Arctic. In: O’Connor, S.A., Brooks, M.M. X-radiography of Textiles, Dress and Related Objects. Oxford: Elsevier / Butterworth Heinemann, 2007, pp.294-301.

5. Pallasmaa, J. The Eyes of the Skin: Architecture and the Senses (Part 2). Chichester: Wiley-Academy, 2005, pp.39-72, 77-80.

6. Braddock Clarke, S.E. The future of fibres and fabrics. In: Braddock Clarke, S.E., O’Mahoney, M. Techno Textiles 2: Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design, Bk. 2. London: Thames & Hudson, 2007, pp.12-31.

7. O’Mahony, M. Engineered textiles. In: Braddock Clarke, S.E., O’Mahoney, M. Techno Textiles 2: Revolutionary Fabrics for Fashion and Design, Bk. 2. London: Thames & Hudson, 2007, pp.52-75.

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9. Schneider, J. In and out of polyester: desire, disdain and global fibre competition. Anthropology Today Vol.10:4, August 1994, pp.2-10.

10. Quinn, B. Textile Futures: Fashion, Design and Technology (Chapter 9, Extreme Interfaces). Oxford: Berg, 2010, pp.245-271, 302-302.

11. Taylor, A. Digital embroidery techniques for smart clothing. In: McCann, J., Bryson, D. (eds) Smart clothes and wearable technology. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute, 2009, pp.279-299.

12. Treadaway, C. Developments in digital print technology for smart textiles. In: McCann, J., Bryson, D. (eds) Smart clothes and wearable technology. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute, 2009, pp. 300-318.

13. Ramsgard Thomsen, M. Building liveness: imagining architecture as a robotic membrane. In: Proceedings of the Ubiquitous Computing Workshop, 9th International Conference, UbiComp 2007, Innsbruck, Austria, September 16-19, 2007.

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Textiles: Critical and Primary Sources Edited by Catherine Harper

Textiles: Critical and Primary Sources is a major multi-volume reference work that draws together 80 seminal texts on textiles.

Textile culture stretches geographic, historical, methodological and disciplinary boundaries, and defies chronological ordering. The contents are therefore gathered into four thematic collections dealing with history and curation; production and sustainability; science and technology; and identity, each supported by an introductory editorial essay that serves to critique and supplement each textual collection and theme.

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wEAVING IMPERIAL IDEAS: ICONOGRAPHY AND IDEOLOGY OF THE INCA COCA BAGlauReN fINdley hugheS

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CATHeRINe MORIARTYREVEALING CLUES FROM TEXTILE PARTICULATE THROUGH MICROSCOPY,INFRARED SPECTROSCOPY, AND X-RAY MICROANALYSISKATHRYN A. JAKeS, AMANDA J. THOMPSON, AND CHRISTel M. BAlDIA

SMART DUST: SCI-FI APPLICATIONS ENABLED BY SYNTHETIC FIBER AND TEXTILES TECHNOLOGYJOAN FARReR

MOUNDVILLE: FORGOTTEN TEXTILE FRAGMENTS REVEAL THE PASTVIRGINIA WIMBeRleY AND AMANDA THOMPSON

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DUST TO DUST: A PARTICULAR HISTORY OF KHAKI

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