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OBJECTIVES
Explain how fibers, yarns, and fabrics are produced and manufactured.
Distinguish various fabric finishes.
Identify a suitable pattern and interpret information on its envelope.
Select appropriate fabric and notions for your garment.
FIBERS
Sewing success involvesmaking wise fabric selectionsunderstanding fabrics is key
pairing the right fabric with the right pattern
continued
FIBERS
Fibers are combined to form yarn
Fiber is the
basic unit of
all fabrics
Yarns are woven
and knitted to
make fabrics
NATURAL FIBERS
Natural fibersexist in naturedo not change in composition during processing
© Richard Thornton/Shutterstock
COTTON
Cotton comes from the seedpod of the cotton plant
Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber
continued
COTTON
Advantages: Versatile, absorbent, comfortable in warm weather, dyes and prints well, does not build up static electricity, durable
Disadvantages: Wrinkles and shrinks easily (finishes can be applied to fabrics to prevent this)
LINEN
Flax, the fiber used to make linen, comes from the woody stalk of the flax plant
Flax is the oldest known fiber used for fabrics; the strongest of natural fibers
continued
LINEN
Advantages: Strong, cool, absorbent, durable, looks smooth and lustrous
Disadvantages: Wrinkles and creases easily unless treated, shines if ironed, poor resistance to mildew and perspiration
WOOL
Wool, a protein fiber, comes from the fleece of sheep
Wool is the warmest of natural fibers
continued
WOOL
Advantages:
Warm, absorbent, resists wrinkles, resilient, durable, creases well
Disadvantages:
Expensive, can shrink or matt, often requires dry cleaning, burns easily, attracts insects
continued
WOOL
Wool Products Labeling Act requires that wool in fabrics and garments must be labeled as
new or virgin wool (fibers from the coat of a living animal that is being used for the first time)
Recycled (fibers from previously made wool fabrics that were never used)
SILK
Silk is excreted from the silkworm when it builds its cocoon
Silk fibers are unraveled from the cocoons of silkworms
continued
SILK
Advantages: Looks and feels smooth and luxurious, absorbent, strong but lightweight, resists wrinkling and soil
Disadvantages: Expensive; weakened by detergents, perspiration, and sunlight; yellows with age; may require dry cleaning; attacked by insects; spotted by water
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Did You Know?
• Silk is the longest natural fiber
• It takes 2,000 to 3,000 cocoons to make one pound of raw silk
© Sofia/Shutterstock
RAMIE
Ramie fibers are obtained from the stalks of China grass, which is grown in Southeast Asia
Advantages: Strong, durable, washable, lustrous, absorbent, dries quickly
MANUFACTURED FIBERS
Manufactured fibers are produced through chemical and technical means from
natural cellulose (a fibrous substance from plants)
chemicals (noncellulosic fibers); crude oil products
continued
MANUFACTURED FIBERS
Noncellulosic fibers are generally thermoplastic (soften at high temperatures)
Manufactured fibers have advantages and disadvantages
Rayon and lyocell are absorbentOther fibers are not absorbent and create static electricity
MICROFIBERS
A microfiber is an extremely thin filament of a manufactured fiber
It has all the characteristics of its original manufactured fiber, plus a luxurious look and feel
continued
YARNS
A yarn is a continuous strand made by combining staple fibers or filaments
Staple fibers are short fibersFilaments are continuous strands of fibers
Many yarns are either blends or combinations of different fibers
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
Two common methods of fabric construction are weaving and knitting
Other methods are felting fusingbraidingknottingquilting
WOVEN FABRICS
Weaving is the process of interlacing two sets of yarns to produce a fabric
Weaving is done on machines called looms
PLAIN WEAVE
Simplest form of weaving
Made by passing a crosswise yarn alternately over and under the lengthwise yarns
Produces strong, durable fabrics such as muslin, percale, dress linen, gingham, broadcloth
TWILL WEAVE
Twill weave is formed when a crosswise yarn passes, or floats, over two or three lengthwise yarns
Produces fabrics that are strong, durable, resist wrinkles, and hide soil
Examples are denim and gabardine
SATIN WEAVE
A satin weave is made when a crosswise yarn floats over four or more yarns and under one
Characterized by their lustrous shine
Satin-weave fabrics are not durable, but tend to be smooth and slippery
KNIT FABRICS
Knitting is the process of looping yarns together to form fabrics
Knit fabricsstretch to move with, and fit, the bodyresist wrinklesmay run, snag, or ravel
OTHER FABRIC CONSTRUCTIONS
Nonwoven fabrics are made by pressing, bonding, or interlocking fibers together directly without using yarns
Made using mechanical action, chemicals, and/or heat
Have many medical and industrial uses
continued
OTHER FABRIC CONSTRUCTIONS
Braiding is the process of interlacing three or more yarns lengthwise and diagonally to make fabrics
Used to make decorative trims, shoelaces, and rugs
Laces and nets are produced through knotting, twisting, or looping yarns
continued
OTHER FABRIC CONSTRUCTIONS
Quilting is the process of stitching a layer of insulating material between two layers of fabric
FABRIC FINISHES
All fabrics go through some type of finishing process
Most finishes add certain characteristics to the fabrics that improve the appearance, feel, or performance
continued
FABRIC FINISHES
Antistatic
Bleaching
Brushing
Calendering
Dyeing
Permanent press
Flame retardant
Mercerization
Preshrinking
Stain resistance
Sizing
Soil release
Water repellent
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Think Further
How does a permanent press finish improve the appearance of cotton and linen fabrics?
© Sergey Rusakov/Shutterstock
CHOOSING A PATTERN
Successful sewing begins with choosing the right pattern
Correct sizeFlattering styleAppropriate level of difficulty
FIGURE TYPE AND SIZE
Pattern companies have standard pattern sizes for various figure types
Figure types are based on height and general body proportions
TAKING MEASUREMENTS
Tape measure should fit snugly around the body, but not too tight
Measure over undergarments
Use tape measure parallel to the floor
Ask for help
THE PATTERN ENVELOPE
Read the information on the front and back of the envelope
The front has a drawing with variations of the basic pattern, or pattern views © Photo courtesy of McCall Pattern
Company
PATTERN BACK
Number of pattern pieces included
Written description of the garment
Fabric recommendations
Supplies needed
Drawing of the back of each garment view
Measurement chart
How much fabric to buy
Any interfacing or lining fabrics needed
CHOOSING A FABRIC
The pattern-envelope back identifies fabrics appropriate for the pattern
continued
© Rob Bouwman/Shutterstock
CHOOSING A FABRIC
Before buying fabric, considera fabric’s care requirementsyour sewing skill and the difficulties that fabrics can pose if they are too heavy, slippery, ravel easily, or have a complicated design
HOW MUCH IS NEEDED?
To determine how much fabric and interfacing to buy, refer to the back of the pattern envelope
A chart will show the amount of fabric to buy based on the fabric width and pattern size
CHOOSING NOTIONS
Buy notions when you buy your fabric
threadbuttonstrims fastenersseam bindingbias tape
continued
© Nattika/Shutterstock
CHOOSING NOTIONS
Notions needed are listed on the back of the pattern envelope
Polyester or cotton-covered polyester thread is good for working with most fabrics
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Section 12-1 Review• What are the two major groups of
fibers and what raw materials are used to produce them?natural fibers exist in nature;
manufactured fibers are produced through chemical and technical means from natural cellulose or crude oil products
• What was the first manufactured fiber?rayon continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Section 12-1 Review• How are nonwoven fabrics made?
by pressing, bonding, or interlocking fibers together using mechanical action, chemicals, and/or heat
• True or false. The type and amount of fabric required by a given pattern is given inside the pattern envelope.false—it is given on the back of the
pattern envelope
OBJECTIVES
Determine the basic sewing supplies.
Describe how to operate and care for a sewing machine.
List the uses of a serger.
SMALL EQUIPMENT
Having the proper equipment and knowing how to use it will help you become a successful sewer
continued
SMALL EQUIPMENT
A sewing box will help you keep sewing items in one place
measuring toolscutting toolsmarking toolspins and needlespressing equipment
CUTTING TOOLS
Having good-quality, sharp shears and scissors is very important in sewing
dressmaker shearsscissorsrotary cutterseam ripperpinking shears
MARKING TOOLS
Marking tools are used to transfer pattern markings to fabric
tracing wheelstracing papertailor’s chalktailor’s pencil
© Farsad-Behzad Ghafarian/Shutterstock
PINS AND NEEDLES
Dressmaker pins hold garment pieces in place
Needles bring the thread through the fabric
Pincushions hold unused pins and needles
Thimbles are used when sewing by hand
PRESSING EQUIPMENT
Pressing is as important as stitching ironpressing cloth ironing boardtailor’s ham
THE SEWING MACHINE
Learning how to operate a sewing machine is easier when you understand how it works
A sewing machine secures pieces of fabric together with a lockstitch
Two threads lock in the middle of the fabric layers to make a secure stitch
continued
THE SEWING MACHINE
The needle carries thread from the upper part of the machine, through the fabric, to pick up the lower thread
continued
© gnohz/Shutterstock
**THE SEWING MACHINE
The *bobbin* is a small spool that feeds the lower thread
continued
© ultimathule/Shutterstock
**THE SEWING MACHINE**
The **presser foot** holds fabric in place
The **feed dogs** are two small rows of teeth that move the fabric forward
The **thread-tension regulator **balances the tension, or pull between the upper and lower threads
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Think Further
Tension must be balanced for a proper stitch to form. What is wrong with this stitch and how can the tension be adjusted to fix it?
© Africa Studio/Shutterstock
THE SEWING MACHINE
With mechanical machines, the user dials the stitch wanted and adjusts the length, width, and tension
With computerized machines, the preferred length, width, and tension are preprogrammed
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Did You Know?
• In the early 1800s, most clothing was made in the home using a needle and thread.
• The sewing machine made the mass production of clothing possible.
© Chas/Shutterstock
THREADING THE MACHINE
**Threading upper part of machine**Put thread spool on the spool pinRun thread from the spool pin through the
1. tension control**2. take-up lever **3. thread guides**4. Needle**
continued
THREADING THE MACHINE
Threading lower part of machine1. Thread the bobbin2. Place bobbin in bobbin case3. Bring bobbin thread up
through the needle hole before beginning to sew
CARING FOR THE MACHINE
Your owner’s manual will have step-by-step directions for cleaning your machineClean often with a soft cloth or small brush
Use the correct type of needle for your machine and fabric; replace dull or bent needles
Oil periodically
SAFETY WITH SEWING TOOLS
Sewing hazardsFires and burnsCuts and woundsElectric shockTrips and fallsFollow precautions to prevent
injuries
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Section 12-2 Review• What are marking tools used for?
to transfer pattern markings from a pattern piece to the fabric
• What is the function of the needle on a sewing machine?it carries thread from the upper part
of the machine down through the fabric and picks up thread from the lower part of the machine to create a lockstitch
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Section 12-2 Review• What are the two basic types of
stitches that almost all sewing machines can create?straight stitch and zigzag stitch
• True or false. A serger does not take the place of a conventional sewing machine.true
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Glossary• bobbin. A small metal or plastic spool
that feeds the lower thread on a sewing machine, which is needed in making a lockstitch.
• fabric. A textile product usually made by weaving or knitting yarns together.
• feed dogs. Two small rows of teeth that move the fabric forward under the presser foot.
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Glossary• fiber. The basic unit of all fabrics.• filament. Continuous strand of fibers.• knitting. A process of looping yarns
together to form a fabric.
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Glossary• lockstitch. A stitch made by a sewing
machine with thread coming from both the upper and lower parts of the machine and locking securely in the middle of the fabric layers being sewn.
• loopers. Serger sewing machine parts that form upper and lower stitches.
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Glossary• manufactured fibers. Fibers that are
produced through chemical and technical means from natural cellulose or crude oil products.
• microfiber. An extremely thin filament of a manufactured fiber.
• natural fibers. Fibers that exist in nature.
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Glossary• nonwoven fabrics. Fabrics made by
bonding or interlocking fibers together directly without using yarns.
• notions. Small items needed to construct a garment, including thread, buttons, trims, fasteners, seam binding, and bias tape.
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Glossary• pattern view. A drawing on the front
of a pattern envelope showing a garment design that can be made from the pattern included in the envelope.
• presser foot. A sewing machine part that holds fabric in place as the machine stitches.
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Glossary• serger. A high-speed sewing machine
that can stitch, trim, and finish seams in one simple step.
• thread-tension regulator. Two separate controls found on a sewing machine that balance tension or pull between the upper and lower threads to form the proper stitch.