Texture Transformations TeSIxtL VXur-418e ICTrE aCREAM …dir.perfumerflavorist.com/file/4562/Texture Transformations, Gransil … · C GRANSIL EP-9 Polysilicone-11 & Water & Laureth-12

Texture Transformations

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FEATURING GRANSIL VX-418 AND ICE CREAM REPAIRTexture Transformations


FEATURING GRANSIL VX-418 AND ICE CREAM REPAIR

THE QUEST FOR NEW TEXTURES AND TEXTURE TRANSFORMATIONS

Finding ingredients that provide unique textures and texture transitions are becoming more

and more important to formulators worldwide. This desire for texture innovation is being

driven by marketers who are constantly seeking to find differentiation for not only their

product but their overall brand as well. The challenge to create different product formats

and transformations is not an easy one. Formulating products that provide visual and/or

sensorial effects without compromising performance can be even more difficult.

At Grant Industries we are up to this challenge. GRANSIL VX-418 and the ICE CREAM

REPAIR concept were created as part of a dedicated R&D program to provide innovation

and new technology in the texture category. With possible applications in all personal care

formulations, GRANSIL VX-418 is the ideal platform for creating the next trend—not

following it.




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Gransil VX-418; the technology

Gransil VX-418

INCI: Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone

Globally approved / Suggested use level of 2-30% / Applicable in all personal care formulations

A newly designed multifunctional wax comprised of a short chain silicone and C18 stearyl group. When incorporated into formulation Gransil VX-418 offers numerous benefits including the following:

• Low melting point by design (melts on contact with skin) allows for innovative texture and texture transformation possibilities

• Superior matrix formation capacity (modifies rheology and reduces syneresis) when compared to other waxes through “Bis” component

• Acts as an emollient to provide a light skin feel, improved spreading, and assist in pigment and UV filter deposition

• Reduces tackiness and dryness of other ingredients in formulations to improve feel

• Provides moisturizing effect from wax composition to treat dry skin

• Besides uses in standard personal care formulations can also create multi-layer toners; act as a binding agent in pressed pow-ders; and improve hair conditioning

Gransil VX-418 should be added to the oil phase of all emulsion types (can be added to water phase for unique texture breaks). For further formulation guidance please contact your Grant Industries’ representative or [email protected].

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Gransil VX-418; “Ice Cream Repair” concept

• Texture; “Ice Cream” to melt transition when applied on skin

• “Repair;” wax structure of Gransil VX-418 provides barrier function to repair dry skin

• Brand new, innovative concept with new possibilities

The following formulations were designed to highlight the texture and transition innovation that Gransil VX-418 offers in skin care, color cosmetics, body, and hair care.

• Ice Cream Repair G103-372.04 concept demo

• Ice Cream Repair BB G103-373.05 concept demo

• Day Lite SPF-20 G103-381.01

• Night Lite Repair Cream G103-382.01

• CC Cream SPF-20 G103-383.03

• Creamy Melt to Powder Concealer G1307-1881.02

• Coconut Body Butter G103-358.04

• Two-layer Toner G103-320.02

• Ice Melt Wax G103-384.01

The suggested use level when formulating with Gransil VX-418 is 2-30%. The above formula-tions showcase Gransil VX-418 at varying levels to demonstrate the different performance. For further formulation guidance please contact your Grant Industries’ representative or [email protected].

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Part Ingredient INCI Name % (wt)

A GRANSIL VX-418 Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone 30.00

GRANSURF 50C-HM Dimethicone & PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 3.00

GRANSURF W9 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone & Hexyl Laurate & Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate 3.00

EUXYL PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50

B DEIONIZED WATER Water 62.87

ARISTOFLEX HMB Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer 0.63

Total: 100.00 Procedure

1. Combine Phase A in the main kettle and heat to 30~35oC. Homogenize until uniform. 2. Combine Phase B in the support kettle and heat to 30~35oC. Mix until uniform. 3. Add Phase B into the main kettle while homogenizing. Continue to mix for 20 minutes. 4. Switch to side sweep and cool the batch to 30oC and let it set. G103-372.04

ICE CREAM REPAIR

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GRANSURF W9 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone & Hexyl Laurate & Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate 3.00

EUXYL PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50

B DEIONIZED WATER Water 58.21

ARISTOFLEX HMB Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer 0.29

C BTD/MM3 Titanium Dioxide & Magnesium Myristate 4.37

BYO/MM3 Iron Oxide (CI 77492) & Magnesium Myristate 0.50

BRO/MM3 Iron Oxide (CI 77491) & Magnesium Myristate 0.10

BBO/MM3 Iron Oxide (CI 77499) & Magnesium Myristate 0.03


1. Combine Phase A in the main kettle and heat to 30~35oC. Homogenize until uniform. 2. Combine Phase B in the support kettle and heat to 30~35oC. Mix until uniform. 3. Add Phase B into the main kettle while homogenizing. Continue to mix for 20 minutes. 4. Combine Phase C and micro-pulverize until uniform. 5. Add Phase C into the main kettle while homogenizing. Continue to mix for 10 minutes. 6. Switch to side sweep and cool the batch to 30oC and let it set. G103-373.05

ICE CREAM REPAIR BB




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A DEIONIZED WATER Water 40.60

CARBOPOL ULTREZ-10 Carbomer 0.20 POLYMER

TEA 99% Triethanolamine 0.20

PROCOL SA-21 Steareth-21 2.00

GRANSIL VX-418 Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone 20.00

GLYCERIN Glycerin 3.00

BUTYLENE GLYCOL Butylene Glycol 2.00

B CREASIL ID Isododecane 5.00

NEO HELIOPAN 303 Octocrylene 4.00

NEO HELIOPAN 357 Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl-methane 3.00

NEO HELIOPAN AV Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.00

JEECHEM GMS-165 Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate 1.00

PROTACHEM CS-50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00

GRANPOWDER USQ Polymethylsilsesquioxane & HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer 5.00

C GRANSIL EP-9 Polysilicone-11 & Water & Laureth-12 & Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 5.00


1. Combine Phase A in the main kettle and heat to 70~75oC, prop mix until uniform. 2. Combine Phase B in support kettle and heat to 70~75oC. Mix until uniform. 3. Add Phase B into the main kettle while mixing. Continue to mix for 15~20 minutes. 4. Add Phase C into the main kettle while mixing and mix until uniform. 5. Switch to side sweep and cool down to 30~35oC. G103-381.01

DAY LITE SPF-20




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BUTYLENE GLYCOL Butylene Glycol 2.00

B GRANPOWDER USQ Polymethylsilsesquioxane & HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer 5.00


GRANACTIVE Dimethyl Isosorbide & Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate 1.00 RETINOID

DIMETHICONE, 5CST Dimethicone 6.00



C GRANSIL EP-9 Polysilicone-11 & Water & Laureth-12 & Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 5.00

D EUXYL PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00


1. Combine Phase A in the main kettle and heat to 70~75oC, prop mix until uniform. 2. Combine Phase B in support kettle and heat to 70~75oC. Mix until uniform. 3. Add Phase B into the main kettle while mixing. Continue to mix for 15~20 minutes. 4. Add Phase C into the main kettle while mixing and mix until uniform. 5. Start cooling with side sweep. 6. Add Phase D at 40~45oC and continue to cool until 30~35oC. G103-382.01

NIGHT LITE REPAIR CREAM




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PROTASORB O-20 Polysorbate 80 1.00

SODIUM HYALURONATE Water & Sodium Hyaluronate 2.00 1% AQ SOLUTION

DISODIUM EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.10



GRANSIL EP-9 Polysilicone-11 & Water & Laureth-12 & Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 4.00

GRANTHIX APP Isohexadecane & Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate & Polysorbate 80 2.00

B DIMETHICONE, 5CST Dimethicone 7.00


GRANSIL VX-402 Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer 3.00


NEO HELIOPAN AV Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00

NEO HELIOPAN 303 Octocrylene 3.00

NEO HELIOPAN 357 Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl-methane 3.00

C DIMETHICONE, 5CST Dimethicone 2.70

BTD/MM3 Titanium Dioxide & Magnesium Myristate 1.76

BYO/MM3 Iron Oxide (CI 77492) & Magnesium Myristate 0.35



GRANSURF 67 PEG-10 Dimethicone 0.05

D DISTINCTIVE EMUL- Hydrogenated Lecithin & Behenyl Alcohol & Palmitic Acid 3.00 LIPID LB

E EUXYL PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50


1. Combine Phase A in the main kettle and heat to 60~65oC. Mix with prop mix until uniform. 2. Combine Phase B in support kettle and heat to 60~65oC. 3. Combine Phase C and ball mill until the drawdown passes 10 micron on Hegman Gauge. 4. Add Phase C into Phase B and mix until uniform. 5. Add Phase BC into the main kettle while mixing and continue to mix for 5 minutes. 6. Add Phase D into the main kettle while mixing and continue to mix until uniform. 7. Switch to side sweep and begin to cool down the batch. 8. Add Phase E at 40~45oC.Mix until uniform.

G103-383.03

CC CREAM SPF-20

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A JEECHEM PGDD Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 31.50


SOFTISAN 100 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 3.00

GRANSIL RPS-D6 Cyclohexasiloxane & Polysilicone-11 15.00

CANDELILLA WAX Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax 0.50

CARNAUBA WAX Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax 4.00

ASENSA SC 210 Polyethylene 5.00

B BYO/MM3 Iron Oxide (CI 77492) & Magnesium Myristate 2.50



RON TI-12 Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) 10.00

SILVER 2800 Mica 6.00


BARIUM SULFATE Barium Sulfate 5.00


1. Weigh Phase A in the main kettle equipped with homogenizer. Heat to 90-95º C. Mix well at temperature for 1 hour.

2. Micro-pulverize Phase B. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A. Mix for 45 minutes. 4. Pour samples at 85º C.

G1307-1881.02

CREAMY MELT TO POWDER CONCEALER




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CARBOPOL ULTREZ 10 Carbomer 0.30 POLYMER

TEA, 99% Triethanolamine 0.30


B PROTACHEM OP Octyl Palmitate 12.00

COCONUT OIL Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 4.00

AVOCADO OIL Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 2.00

PROTASORB S-20 Polysorbate 60 2.00



GRANSIL PSQ Polymethylsilsesquioxane 2.00

GRANSIL VX-402 Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer 5.00


C EUXYL PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00

TROPICAL CREAMY Fragrance 0.30 COCONUT FRAGRANCE, 6115909


1. Combine Phase A in the main kettle and heat to 60-70oC with mixing until all solids are dissolved. 2. Combine Phase B in a side kettle and heat to 70-75oC with mixing until all solids are dissolved. 3. Add Phase B into the main kettle while homogenizing and continue to mix until uniform. 4. Start cooling with side sweep. 5. Add Phase D sequentially at 40oC and continue to cool until room temperature. G103-358.04

COCONUT BODY BUTTER

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DIMETHICONE, 5CST Dimethicone 12.00

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE Cyclopentasiloxane 50.00

B SD 40 ALCOHOL Alcohol 35.00

CENTELLA ASIATICA Water & Centella Asiatica Extract & Phenoxyethanol & Sodium Benzoate 1.00 BT*


1. Combine Phase A in the main kettle and heat to 27oC. Mix until uniform. 2. Combine Phase B in the support kettle and mix until uniform. 3. Add Phase B into the main kettle. * BC Research Company (www.BCResearchCO.com) G103-320.02

TWO-LAYER TONER




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A GRANSIL VX-418 Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone 30.00 PARAFFIN WAX FULLY Paraffin 5.00 REFINED 140

STEARYL ALCOHOL Stearyl Alcohol 3.00

MICROCRYSTALLINE Microcrystalline Wax 5.00 WAX 193/198

WHITE BEESWAX Beeswax 3.00

D-PANTHENOL Panthenol 0.50

GRANSURF W9 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone & Hexyl Laurate & Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate 2.00 GRANACRYSIL BAS Butyl Acrylate/Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer 8.00 B PVP/VA W-735 VP/VA Copolymer 15.00 C DEIONIZED WATER Water 27.90 ARISTOFLEX HMB Ammonium Acyloydimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer 0.10

D EUXYL PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50 Total: 100.00 Procedure

1. Combine Phase A in the main kettle and heat to 75~80oC. Homogenized until uniform. 2. Add Phase B into the main kettle while homogenizing. Continue to mix for 10 minutes. 3. Combine Phase C in the support kettle and mix until uniform. 4. Add Phase C into the main kettle while homogenizing. Continue to mix for 10~15 minutes. 5. Switch to side sweep and cool down to 40oC. Add Phase D and mix until uniform.

G103-384.01

ICE MELT WAX

Cushion Increase 3-5%

Lighten Texture 5-10% (serum-like effect)

Line-Filling 3-5%

Mattify 3-5%

Oil Reduction 3-5%

Overall Feel 3-5% 3-5% 5-10% Improvement

Powdery Finish 3-5% 3-5% Enhancement

Slip Increase 3-5% 3-5%

Smooth Break 5-10%

Soft Focus 3-5% 3-5% Enhancement

Spreadability 3-5% Improvement

Stability (O/W) 1-3% Enhancement

Stability (W/Si) 1-3% Enhancement

Tack Reduction 3-5% 3-5%

Thicken Water 1-3% Phase

Increase Playtime 3-5%

Gransurf 50C-HM

Granthix APP

Gransil 530

Gransil SiW-026

Gransil EP-9

GransilPSQ

GRANT FORMULA ENHANCING SERIESA bench chemist’s tool kit for enhancing the sensory attributes of any formula. Each product in the series can be added to any emulsion with just a mix, no heat required.

*Contact [email protected] to request a GFES sample kit.

Contact us today to discover the ways we help ensure your product’s performance is flawless, or learn more at www.grantinc.com.

GLOBAL HEADQUARTERS:125 Main Ave. Elmwood Park, NJ 07407201-791-6700 � [email protected]

Documents

Texture Transformations TeSIxtL VXur-418e ICTrE aCREAM …dir.perfumerflavorist.com/file/4562/Texture Transformations, Gransil … · C GRANSIL EP-9 Polysilicone-11 & Water & Laureth-12