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How to Build a T-Bucket Roadster for Under $3,000

By Chester Greenhalgh

Copyright, Legal Notice and Disclaimer:

All contents copyright © 1986 by Chester Greenhalgh. All rights reserved worldwide. No part of this document or the related files may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means (electronic, photocopying, scanning, recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the publisher.

This publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable international, federal, state and local laws, and all rights are reserved, including resale rights: you are not allowed to give or sell either a print or digital copy of this Guide to anyone else. Remember, that I have your name and address. If you received this publication from anyone other than TBucketPlans.com, you've received an illegal, pirated copy. Please contact us via e-mail at [email protected] and notify us of the situation. We will protect your identity and see that you are taken care of. Please note that much of this book is based on personal experience and anecdotal evidence. Although the author and publisher have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content in this book, they assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Also, you should use this information as you see fit, and at your own risk. Your particular situation may not be exactly suited to the examples illustrated here; in fact, it's likely that they won't be the same, and you should adjust your use of the information and recommendations accordingly. Any trademarks, service marks, product names or named features are assumed to be the property of their respective owners, and are used only for reference. There is no implied endorsement if we use one of these terms. Finally, use your head. Nothing in this book is intended to replace common sense, legal, medical or other professional advice, and is meant to inform and entertain the reader. So have fun with How to Build a T-Bucket Roadster for Under $3000, and get your stuff done. Copyright © 1986 Chester Greenhalgh. All rights reserved worldwide.

Remember, that I have your name and address.

Published by

Table of Contents

• Frame: Complete detailed T-bucket frame plans with dimensions and templates, including front and rear spring perches, steering bracket, radius rod brackets, shock and body mounts. Best and easiest ways to cut, weld and triangulate the frame, prepare, prime and paint finish. Includes complete Bill of Materials and suggested bargain sources. By the way, this is where 90% of other T-bucket plan sets END!

• Body: How to get the best deal on your body. Wood reinforcement for the fiberglass body. The cheap and simple technique that will make people think you have a STEEL T-bucket body. Installing the floor and transmission cover. Cutting the body for bellhousing clearance and to channel body over frame. Working with fiberglass. Seat riser construction, windshield bracket reinforcement, and hidden tool compartment.

• Pickup Box: Instead of buying a fiberglass T-bucket pickup box, how to build your own from junkyard parts and make it strong enough to sit on, actually haul stuff, or maybe even use as a rumble seat for the kids!?

• Bodywork: Removing mold release from your fiberglass T-bucket body, sanding and “On the eighth day, God created Bondo.” How to set up your Bondo table, how to use a body file and finish sand. Working with Feather Fill.

• Painting: A professional’s tips for garage painting your T-bucket. Lacquer, enamel, acrylic, urethane, or water-based paints? Tips on how to incorporate different color panels over a base color, fading in colors, striping, etc. for a truly professional custom paint job. How toothpaste fits into the picture and why you should avoid drugstore striping tape.

• Springs: Front and rear transverse Ford-type springs. Don’t have to be Ford, though. How to rebuild and refinish old springs. Spring lubrication methods. Templates for spring alignment strap and spring perch bottom plates. Build a low-buck, shiny spring perch cover from roof flashing. Alternative cheap or free spring sources for your T-bucket hot rod; where to look and what to look for.

• Front Axle: Low cost T-bucket front axle options: early Ford, old pickup trucks, Econoline. How to make that dual semi-elliptic truck axle look good with a transverse spring (including how to Bondo a front axle). Low cost disc brakes. How to build the poor man’s four bar and make your own low-cost friction shocks. Eliminate the rare, costly Corvair steering box, with other GM and Ford choices, including the school bus box that will feel like power steering! Templates for batwings (radius rod brackets), spring hangers, shackles, steering arms, and shock mounts. Drag link construction. Front end alignment.

• Rear Axle: How to prepare inexpensive GM 10 and 12 bolt rear ends, and give them some flash. Rear batwing templates. Junkyard tie rod ends as an alternative to expensive heim joints in your T-bucket construction (important when you’re using 15 of them in the overall build). Building and attaching rear spring hangers. Adjusting pinion angle. Rear shackle alignment.

• Rear Radius Rods: The T-bucket hot rodder’s truly low cost radius rod solution. It’s been used for years. With gussets template and info on radius rod adjustment.

©1986 Chester Greenhalgh 4 www.TBucketPlans.com

• Steering Column: Build your own using a chrome exhaust pipe extension, a cheap bearing and old radiator hose scraps. Steering column floor support template. How to find and refurbish the lowest of low-buck T-bucket custom steering wheels.

• Firewall: Easiest way to make your T-bucket firewall template. Variety of materials, what to avoid using. How to attach the firewall and how to shorten transmission dipstick for clearance, if necessary.

• Engine: What to do before you pull the engine from your donor car, how to clean it up, how to paint it, and how to get the most from your chrome dress up bucks. How to build your T-bucket motor mounts, including templates. Fan spacers for most efficient cooling. How to build your transmission mount, with templates.

• Brakes: How to adapt intermediate GM disc brakes to early Ford and Econoline axles, including templates to building your own adapters and saving money. Building an integral brake pedal/master cylinder assembly that removes from the frame of your T-bucket in one piece for easier servicing. Diagram and instructions for laying out your brake lines, including proportioning valve, and how to plumb them. The poor boy’s Coke bottle method for brake bleeding. Installing a junkyard find emergency brake. And, for the really bucks-down builder: how to turn your own rotors, the cheap way.

• Radiator, Mounts and Shell: Page and a half of $50 or less junkyard or low-cost parts store alternatives to the high dollar ($350+) T-bucket radiator dilemma. Templates for brackets to mount radiator to chassis. A unique alternative to the model T radiator shell. Mounting the shell to the radiator. Low cost, hardware store grille filler. How to build your own decorative radiator cap from a 2″ chrome exhaust extension and a junk, busted, swap-meet moto-meter. Hazards to avoid like lightweight racing fans (72 stitches and a hand that will never hold a Coke again — true story about a friend).

• Battery Box: Using bedrail to build an out-of-the-way, underframe battery box for your T-bucket so you don’t use up all your pickup bed space; plus a low-buck hardware store louvered soffet to cover up that “el-cheapo” battery.

• Driveshaft: Dune buggy proven, do-it-yourself driveshaft shortening method that’ll save big bucks for any T-bucket builder. Super special bonus: bathtub balancing your driveshaft!

• Fuel System: How to plumb your T-bucket fuel system, gas tank alternatives and how to build your gas tank mounting brackets.

• Headlights and Taillights: Best sources for cheap T-bucket hot rod headlights. Save by building your own headlight brackets. Super-cheap, off-the-shelf, buy-’em-anywhere taillights and how to build simple mounting brackets for them.

• Dashboard: Easy technique for building your own custom wood dash, with deep wood grain finish. How to cut holes for instruments, turn signal indicators and bright headlight indicator. Best of all, wire this custom dash out of your T-bucket to avoid standing on your head and take it out for servicing by loosening two screws.

• Electrical System: This chapter alone will save you ten times the purchase price of a specialty T-bucket wiring harness and you can avoid ten times the headaches. If you’re using a small block Chevy, you don’t even need to look at the schematics because complete simple, step-by-step wiring instructions are given. Ford wiring diagram included just in case you’re a rugged individual. No need to spend big bucks for a wiring harness. Simple wiring components readily available at Radio Shack or


your local auto parts store. Where to locate cheap gauges and suggestions for cool junkyard speedometers.

• Gas Pedal: You gotta have something to stomp on to go fast. So, how to adapt a junkyard gas pedal to your T-bucket, along with routing the throttle cable.

• Gear Shifter: Again, save big bucks by building your own nostalgic, long-arm T-bucket floor shifter for your Turbo-Hydro 350 or 400. Where to locate cheap, long shift arms and unique, cheap shift knobs. Plus, if you’re lazy, how to hook up a Ford Mustang shifter instead (p.s., doesn’t even have to be a Mustang — Pinto will do).

• Upholstery: Poor man’s quick and easy T-bucket upholstery for the interior side panels, seat bottom and back, seat riser panel, floor and firewall. And, if you decide to turn the upholstery over to a pro, the techniques and prep covered will save you a couple hundred dollars. Chester’s unique pickup bed cover construction, which can double as a “rumble seat” if you’re just cruising the fairgrounds at 5 mph.

• Windshield: Again, save big bucks by constructing your own custom T-bucket windshield frame that can be polished to a chrome-like finish. Make your own windshield support rods and give them a low-buck chrome effect. Rear view mirror and windshield wiper considerations included.

• Suppliers: A few sources for some of the T-bucket build components you either can’t find in a junkyard, make yourself, or purchase locally.

• Epilogue, Titling your T-Bucket: Not legal advice, but some words of experience on how to most quickly and economically figure out this vital step to getting your T-bucket on the road.


RADiATOR, MOUNTS AND SHELL

This book will deal with all the little odds and ends you'll run into while building a roadster. We'll also discuss the most economical solution to many minor problems that are totally ignored by most articles on rod-building. "Buy it from so & so is a typical cop-out you won't have to hear this time. Besides astronomical prices most of these items you could make yourself if you just. knew how. I prefer to make everything myself, unless I can buy it cheaper than I can make it for. (This is where your magazine advertisements come in handy) Since I'm not trying to steer business in anyones direction, I'll give you the cheapest method I can find.

We'll start out with the radiator mounts and radiator shell. The mounts are very simple to make. They're just two 3" pieces of 1" angle iron, held to the frame with two 5/16" bolts each. Cut the mounts and grind the corners round. Measure in and drill the 5/16" holes as depicted in the lower illustration.

i,

You can clamp them together and drill all four holes with two shots. The wide spaced holes attach to the frame. Measure back from the front of the frame, as in the photo, 6" and trace a line down witi) a square. This line will be for the front or leading edge of the mount. Adjust the square so it extends down 3/4" from the top surface of the frame.

Start the hole with the 5/16" drill while a friend holds it in place. (Photo on page 139) If the frame isn't painted yet, you can just clamp it. We're going to tap this with a 5/16" X 18 tap. Whenever you want to tap a hole, drill it out with a bit two sïzes down from the bolt size intended. Norrrially this will be the correct size for the tap. The reason for starting the hole with a 5/16" drill, is to cent-er the tapped hole under the 5/16" present hole. Just push hard enough to break the surface, then finish drilling with tile smaller drill. I've found that redrilling the mount with a 3/8" drill allows a considerable adjustment for the


radiator slant so the radiat-or ancle can be at its rost attractive position in relation

to the body. This cart be best determined by just standing back and eyeballing.

Nount dot'rn 3/4"

We're going to mount a Dodi,e Aspen radiator under the radiator shell, but the

more expensive Walker radiator will bolt right ort to these mounts, if you decide to

use one now or sometine in the future. I've used the little Dodge upright before

on basically stock small-blocks and they've always nui cool. (except in parades)

If you've got a radical engine you may want the bigger Walker. The little Dodge

unit can he picked up for about SSO used, to lOO new, compared to 3OO+ for a

Walker. Don't worry about the space t)etweerl the radiator and the shell, I've got

that coverec in this chapter too.

Noxt cones our decision as to what kind of radiator shell we want The normal

choice is tlie '-sI-iell. Racing Unlimited sells this cheapest in fiberglass form for

about 535. They're all basically the same, regardless ot' the supplier. They all

have to he cleaned and bonßoed to look decent. On the following paces is a trick to

make the shell fit real snu to a walker radiator. Cover Lhe radiator with waxed

paper at the top, so the fiberglass won't stick. Try the shell to make sure it fits

over the dummy filler nec:k OK. Cut two strips of sheet rteta1 for tabs, about 3/4"

X 2". ark the shell where the Walker radiator upper tabs are. Don't drill the

holes yet. Mir1c the tabs tihc)rc they nust set between the shell and the radiator tab.

Now you have to fihorlass the tabs to the inside of the shell, and let then dry. When the rat has set up hard put the shell back on the radiator and drill the tab

holes, using the ortes in the radiator tabs for a guide.

Next mix up a gob of hondo or Titer Uair (Chopped fiberglass in a can like bondo)

and set it on the inside of the shell right below the filler neck hole. Leave it in


a big ball just a little bigger than a golf hail, and sit the shell in place over the radiator, like the photo shots. Clamp i.1 down and let it set. Be sure you have bolts in the tabs you made on the shell. This action causes the bondo to spread out and form to fit the radiator tank, md the wax paper keeps it froi sticking. When its set just remove the shell, peel off the wax paper and reinstall the shell.

I've found anútaer and cheaper source for an attractive radiator shell. So far its been nore popular than the tried and true 1-shell, t:tth everyone T've shrnn it to, partly because it will house a larger radiator.

L've noticed at the last flea markets I've been to, the abundance of banged up Model A shells that have been turning up for $5 and $10. They've been replaced tith reproductions. (mats riIit, I haunt the auto flea riarkets) anyway, I bought a 29 A shell that had been brazed and bondoed an painted iany times over. I took my $5 purchase and chopped 5" out of it, cut and spread the bottom to meet the sides, and filled the gap with sheet :ietal. A little bondo and paint and you can see the finished results in the phot.o on page 141.


Since everyone so far likes it I'lL go into the details on raking and nounting

it.. The afterr.arket T shell will mount directly to our radiator mounts. The model

lt shell will be trimmed to fit inside the frame rails and also set on top of them.

Trim the back part of the shell which held the hood padding off wit:h your sabre-saw

and hacksaw blade. Cut the shell in half so that the top piece is 18" high.

Now cut the botto-i right through the crank hole,

and cut off t:he sides of the bottom half. %'eld the

ends to the bottom part of the shell. It will leave a

f:aI) in the middle which can be fil led with metal or

f iberlass.

CLIt along this line 'and discard this strip.

_______ Cut shell in half CUT


The founts for the A

shell are made of body sheet metal or your fri'?ndly

neighborhood stop sign, and is sandwiched between the mount arid the frame rail. To the right is a

ter-plate for the mount. Make two of these out of sheet notai. Clanp them both between the radiator ountS 111e Lite illustration

shows and run the drill back through the holes.

Bolt th' mounts tO Lhe frame with the shell mount sandwiched htween the ane iron r.ounts and the frame with the arrow pointing

forward. Now fold thc mounts clown flat on the fraie. Next set the shell back in

place and mark ori the inside where it rests on the sheet netal. Remove the shell

and clamp a piece of angle iron ori the line, as the photo above depicts, to act as

a sheet metal brake to bend against. Bend each mount straight up. The shell can

now be lowered over them with the sheet rnetal mounts on the inside. [)rill two 1/8"

holes on each side and pop rivet the shell and the :tount together. To remove the

shell, unbolt the radiator mounts from the fraie.


Inside rjw ci radiator shell mounting.


(RADIATOR GRILLE)

A very attractive grille-filler can be made Lrom an inexpensive overhead light grating. They can be bought for a few dollars fron building supply stores and are made of white plastic. Another nice filler can be made from the guard off of one of the square floor fans if you have a junk one.

The first step is to paint the grating in flat black as the lower photo shows.

It will sandwich between the grille shell and the not-so-perfect-fit radiator.

If you're using a Walker radiator you don't need io make this. The Walker is a

perfect fit for a T shell. However, if you're using, say a Dodge Aspen radiator,

this grille will conceal any Laps.

The grille will be silicone cenented to the radiator shell so both must be

painted first. I use an old ladder in painting as you cari see in the photo. Be

sure arid paint the egg crate grille from all four sides so you don't have any

patches of white showing. One light grating will make two grilles. It's nice to have ari extra in case you catch a rock.


Lay the radiator shell upside down ori the grating (also upside-down) and trace

the opening onto the grating. The plastic is quite britLie and easiest cut with side

cutters, one pi..eee at a time, like cutting chicken wire. Cut an inch outside the

tracing. More has to ho trimmed but T like to trim and fit each one until it fits

perfectly. Use a whole tube of clear silicone in a caulking gun to cement the grille

in place. Position the grille where you want it in the upside-down shell and press

the silicone in, around, up and over wherever you can, without any showing from the

front. Let the shell set until the silicone is cornpleLely dry, preferably overnight.

- _- - _$ snsgS* - e 0e. - ____. O -- O OS-.-. C 0 e*..80.. * 4-.e 4. ** 4-

e s.sw *

T

V I


Cut a 3 1/2" section of the chrome 2" exhaust pipe we had left over from the steerinß colw:tn cover. Split the pipe down 1 3/4" on each side as the photo shows. Cut a 'T' as the photo and illustration show. Bend these tabs alit and trim 1/4" off of each of the [our sides as shown in the illustration.

TRI 1

o

-RADiATOR CA!'-

Drill

318" hoi e s

TR I M

Now drill three holes (3/8") in these tabs for penetrationi of the fiberglass, and insert irì the shell hole from the bottom. The installation of thin black welt (available from upholstery shops) will add class. I install it at this time around the radiator cap hole and glue it in place with weatherstrip adhesive.

Now mix up a blob of tierhair, or sirniliar mixture of chopped strand fiberglass, about the size of a golfball and smear it over the ends of these tabs and into the holes, set the shell carefully by itself until the fiberßlass sets up.

The inside of the shell can now be painted with black undercoating.

A 'T' ornament slips inside, and 'A' ornament fits outside. I secure he cap with two rivets to prevent theft. This is the most easily stolen item on a rod, and seems to be the most stolen.

The antique car flea narkets are always full of motor meters with broken or nissing glass arid thermometers for reasonable prices. I found that the little Ford adhesive discs replace the glass on both sides perfectly. I think they are originally intended for nag wheel centers.


This pipe is goiní

nowhere.

Pipe trimred and ready for installation.

'A' Style 'T' Style


-RADIATOR-

Suprisingly enough, there are a considerable number of modern radiators that will fit under the 'T' or A' shell. A good radiator can be bought from a junkyard for from .$25 to $50. One nice thing about setting your car UI) to accept one of these radiators is the low replacemnt cost of future repairs, and the fact that ours will have a rock guard wl-ìereas the Walker will not.

The ideal radiator cari be bought for 3O0+,(alker) that is made to fit just.

perfect under a 'Ï' shell, but thats a lot of green for a po' hoy. I suggest that we get it runrìin and drive it awhile before you buy that ideal radiator. Then the additional money won't seem so much, you might even want a brass job.

When shopping for a radiator, take along a tape measu and your shell to make sure you get one that will fit. Two more important things to watch for are a built in transmission cooler in the bottom and the lower outlet on the right hand side. (This is for a Chevy) The top outlet can be on either side because we want the chrome outlet for the engine that faces straight forward.

Avoid foriegn car radiators because they don't have the water capacity we need. ASIC and Jeep and several others make radiators that will fit under our shell but the lower outlet is on the wron side.

I'll list the radiators and their dimensions that we can use in the order of their preference and suitability. I'll list the most desireable units first and you try to think of a. junk car some friend may have that fits the bill.

The photo below shows three different styles that can be used on a 'T' roadster.

I'd avoid the track nose. We installed the heavy-duty unit that was part of the nose package, and we had cooling problems. We installed the best electric fan obtainable and still had cootin problems. Net' water puìp, sUH cooling problems.


18 3/8" X 18 1/2" X 1 1/4" 1 l/2"R

80-82 Plymouth Fury 6

78-RO Plymouth Volare 6

KO-82 Chrysler Cordoba 6

79-82 Chrysler New Yorker, Newport 6

78-81 Chrysler LeBaron 6

78-82 Dodge Diplomat 6

80-82 Dodge Mirada 6

79-81 Dodge St Regis 6

78-80 Dodge Aspen 6

77 Chrysler LeBaron 318 V8

18 3/8" X 18 1/2" X 1 1/4" 1 1/2"L

76-78 Dodge Aspen 318 V8 77-78 Dodge Diplomat 318 V8 76-78 Plymouth Volare 318 V8 69-71 Plymouth Fury 6 69-71 Dodge >lonoco, Polara 6

-RADIATORS-

Core measurements Top hose Bottom Hose Trans cooler

17 7/8" X 18 1/2" X i 1/4J. I 1/2"R

70-72 Plymouth Barracuda 6

71-72 Plvnouth Satellite, Sebring, Roadrunner 6

66-70 Plymouth Belvedere, Satellite 6

66-73 Dodge Charger, Coronet 6

i 1/2"R 12"

i 1/2"R 10"

i 112"R 10"

18 3/8" X 18 1/2" X 1 1/4" 1 l/2"L i 3/4"R 12"

74-75 Dodge Dart 318 VB 75-76 Plymouth Valiant, I)uster, Scamp 318 V8

17 3/8" X 18 1/2" X 1 11/4" 1 1/2"L I 3/4"R 10"

70-73 Plymouth Valiant, Duster, Scamp 318 VB 70-73 Dodge Dart 318 V8

17 7/8 X 18 1/2" X 1 1/4" 1 l/2"L 1 3/4"R 10"

70-72 Dodge Monoco, Polara 318 V8 70-73 Plymouth Fury 318 V8 70-73 Dodge Charger, Coronet, Challenger 318 V8 70-73 Plymouth Barracuda 318 VS 71-73 Plymouth Satellite, Sebring, Road Runner 318 V8 70-72 Plymouth Belvedere 318 V8


The radiator -e used in the project car is from a 76 Dodge Aspen 318 V8

with a 10" cooler. Its a brand mew ?lodine unit that only cost $90 delivered.

I was able to use this larger radiator because of the Model A style shell. If

you are using the T style shell you may have to uso the Pinto or Bobcat radiator.

If you like the T shell, there is another avenue open to use a larger, but

still inexpensive radiator, You can split the shell, and spread it to fit the

radiator and then fill in the gap. I did that to house the mamroth Ford flatlad

radiator you see occasionally in the photo backgrounds.

But meanwhile, back at th ranch Lay your radiator shell on top of

Core measurements Top hose Bottom hose Trans cooler

iS 1/8" X 17 1/4" X 1 1/4" i 1/4"L i l/4"R 8"

71-73 Ford Pinto

16 3/s" X 17 1/4" X i i/i" i 1/4"L i 1/4"R 6"

75-77 1ercury Bobcat

16 3/8" X 17 1/4" X 1 1/4" ]. 1/AL i 3/4"R 6"

65 Mercury Cornet 289 VR 65-66 Ford >lustang 289 V8

17 3/8" X 18 1/2" X 1 1/4" I 1/2"R 1. L/2"I 6"

68-73 Dodge Dart 6

71-73 Plymouth Duster, Valiant G

68-69 Plymouth Barracuda 6

67-68 P1yjouth Valiant 6


the raditor wiLh t1e top corners just c1earin as shown in the photos. Nake sure

I:he radiator is settirt square la the shell. I trust my eve more than a tape

measure for this job. The shl1 in these photos is a fiberglass copy of the first

one I made.

Now trace the outline on the sides of the radiator sheet metal. These lines

nust h copied in 3/14" from the drawn line to allûw for the taper of the Model A

shell. (Not necessary for the 'T' shell.)

Cut out alonG this new line with a saber saw equipped with a hacksaw blade. Cut straight in at the top of the rrame to the very edge of the radiator side as shown in the photos. This is necessary to all.ow the radiator to set down in the

frar:ie. The radiator should fit in the shell as shown in the photos on page 152.


Don't worry about the portion of the radiator that hangs down under the shell.

It's virtually invisible when installed.

With pliers bend the curve straight where thc in1e iron LLare mounts touch thc radiator sides. (Shown in the above photo)

Now cut two 10" piect of i l//" angle

iron. With radiator propped in car, place these

upright as shown in the phoLos and rark for any necessary triiJinR. 4ark these

'Left side' and'right side', with an arrow pointing up to avoid any confusion.


Mark the mounts where these uprights rest. Remove one side (left) and weld as shown in the photo. Drill 1/4" holes where shown in the photo, they will Coincide with the raised portion of the radiator sides.

Drill mit the rearmost hole in the lower mount with a 1/2" bit to allow for radiator belt adjustment.

The radiator can be slid 'in from the right side with the left mount bolted solid.

Now Voll can mace the right side rount just like you did the left mount. This :iount can be slid in and the rearward bolt goes in easily. It takes a little patience to get the front bolt in but there is plenty of clearance to do this.

Now run a 9/64" drill through the 1/4" holes into the sheet metal. Tighten the radiator down with sheet metal screws. The radiator is effectively sandwiched

between the shell and the upright and should be very solid. Now pull the shell top into place anti run a 1/4" hit through the sides of the shell and upriI)L and secure with bolts.


-I


Documents

Thanks for requesting this FREE chapter from · • Driveshaft: Dune buggy proven, do-it-yourself driveshaft shortening method that’ll save big bucks for any T-bucket builder. Super