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AL FORNO

ANTICO PIZZA NAPOLETANA

APIZZA SCHOLLS

BUDDY'S PIZZA

CANE ROSSO

COALFIRE PIZZA

DELANCEY

DELORENZO'S TOMATO PIES

DI FARA PIZZA

DOMENICA

EATER 38

FRANNY'S

HARRY'S PIZZERIA

The 38 Essential Pizzas Across the CountryWednesday, September 4, 2013, by Amy McKeever

The appeal of the pizza seems to know no bounds. WhileNew York, Chicago, and San Francisco are all packing anumber of absurdly great pizzerias, an excellent pie can behad just about anywhere in the country. And in just aboutany style: thin-crust, New York, deep dish, Detroit, bar,New Haven, Chicago, grilled, California, tomato pies, and Neapolitanamong them. This last style seems to have taken particular root over thelast decade with pizza-makers across the country importing ovens fromNaples and churning out margherita pies topped with San Marzanotomatoes and mozzarella di bufala.

The question, of course, is which of these restaurants qualify as absolutemust-stop pizzerias for the novice as well as the pizza snob. Earlier this

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87 COMMENTS

HASMAP

IGGIE'S

JOE'S PIZZA

KEN'S ARTISAN PIZZA

LITTLE STAR PIZZA

MANI OSTERIA & BAR

MODERN APIZZA

MOTORINO

OSTERIA

PAULIE GEE’S

PIZANO'S PIZZA & PASTA

PIZARO'S PIZZA

PIZZA

PIZZAIOLO

PIZZERIA BIANCO

PIZZERIA LOCALE

PIZZERIA LOLA

PIZZERIA MOZZA

PUPATELLA NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

SALLY'S APIZZA

SANTARPIO'S PIZZA

SERIOUS PIE

SETTEBELLO PIZZERIA

SPACCA NAPOLI

STAR TAVERN PIZZERIA

TOP

TOTONNO'S PIZZERIANAPOLITANO

UNA PIZZA NAPOLETANA

VIA 313

year, Eater unveiled the Eater National Burger 38<http://eater.com/archives/2013/04/17/the-38-essential-burger-restaurants-across-the-country.php> in the grand tradition of the lists localsites have been putting out for years. And now, ladies and gentlemen, it istime to present the Eater National Pizza 38, the 38 essential pizzerias(and restaurant pizzas) across the country.

There are thousands of decent-to-excellent pizza across the country, andgetting the list down to mere 38 was not an easy task. Much like the 38Essential Restaurants lists on the local sites, the list has been tailored toallow for both geographic diversity and a variety of pizza styles. While thislist focuses on the new classics, there's room as well for the landmarks thatare still influencing pizzerias of today. The Pizza 38 focuses on the piesthemselves: fancy ovens and ambiance are nice but were not dealbreakers.

After composing a longlist of likely candidates, Eater consulted with a panelof curators consisting of chefs, television hosts, book authors, food festivalorganizers, food writers of all stripes, current and former Eater editors, andother folks who are simply well-traveled pizza fans. They didn't agree oneverything. In fact, more often than not, they disagreed on everything.When there was a general consensus on a restaurant, it either made the listor was vetoed. In other cases, the most passionate voices won out. Eitherway, true fans of the art form vouched for the pizzas below.

If the panel couldn't always agree on which restaurants to include in the 38,Eater certainly doesn't expect you to do so. Take a deep breath and air yourgrievances in the comments.

Special thanks to all of those who helped inform this list: MarioBatali, Adam Kuban, Lockhart Steele, Amanda Kludt, Michael Berman,Pizzablogger, Scott Wiener, Jonathan Kauffman, Michael Nagrant, JasonFeirman, Zach Brooks, Mike Thelin, Jessica Voelker, Jackie Gutierrez-Jones, Amber Ambrose, Ari Bendersky, Allecia Vermillion, Aaron Kagan,Alexander Hancock, Andrea Grimes, and current Eater editors.

And now, in alphabetical order, the Eater National Pizza 38.

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Al Forno577 S Main St, Providence, RI 02903(401) 273-9760Website <http://www.alforno.com/>

Antico Pizza Napoletana1093 Hemphill Ave NW, Atlanta, GA30318(404) 724-2333Website <http://www.anticoatl.com>

Photo[]

Considered the birthplace of grilled pizza, AlForno is the rare pizza place with whitetablecloths and twinkling lights out by theterrace. Pizza varieties include those toppedwith calamari, local corn, spicy clams, and more.Scott Wiener of Scott's Pizza Tours writes, "Thisis the fanciest place I've ever eaten pizza and Iloved it. Fantastic grilled pizza with perfectflavor balance and non-traditional herbs." AlForno is equally a restaurant as it is a pizzeria,so expect to see plenty of pastas and otherItalian classics on the menu.

recently opened

Photo[]

Eater Atlanta editor Sonia Chopra reports thatAntico "is by far the most talked about pizzaplace in Atlanta." Giovanni Di Palma makes atrue Neapolitan pie — San Marzano tomatoes,bufala mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil — in hisovens imported straight from Naples. And it'snot just the pizza that keeps people coming backto Antico. Scott Wiener of Scott's Pizza tourssays, "This place has such a fun vibe and makesa solid pie that blends the Neapolitan approachwith American sensibilities in an effortless way."

The owners also a new gelateriaand lunch spot.

Eater National Pizza 38

Map data ©2013 Google, INEGI, MapLink

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Apizza Scholls4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd, Portland, OR97215(503) 233-1286Website<http://www.apizzascholls.com>

Buddy's Pizza17125 Conant St, Detroit, MI 48212(313) 892-9001Website<http://www.buddyspizza.com>

Cane Rosso2612 Commerce St., Dallas, TX 75226(214) 741-1188Website <http://ilcanerosso.com>

Coalfire Pizza1321 W Grand Ave, Chicago, IL 60642(312) 226-2625Website<http://coalfirechicago.com/>

Photo[]

Over the past eight years, the Neapolitan-stylepies at Apizza Scholls have cemented theirposition as perennial favorites in Portland, thePacific Northwest, and nationwide. FeastPortland co-founder Mike Thelin declaresApizza Scholls the "best pizza north of SanFrancisco." You can build your own 18-inch pie,or select from house pies that range from theplain tomato pie to a pig & pineapple pie withhouse-cured smoked Canadian bacon, onions,and pineapple on top. Apizza Scholls also takesto-go orders.

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Buddy's is the original home of the Detroit-stylesquare pizza, having introduced it back in 1946.Despite its age, Buddy's also remains one of themost important, must-visit pizzerias in thecountry. Over the decades, the original hasexpanded into several more locationsthroughout metropolitan Detroit. Chicago criticMichael Nagrant writes, "This is the stuff I grewup on and is still one of, if not the best pies inthe world. It's a destination must-eat every timeI'm in Detroit."

another one on the waya new offshootPhoto[]

"There are two eras in Dallas pizza: the darkages before Jay Jerrier opened Cane Rosso inDeep Ellum, and the beautiful time of light andlove that came after," writes Andrea Grimes,editor emeritus of both Eater Austin and EaterDallas. These are true Neapolitan pies verifiedby the Associazone Verace Pizza Napoletana —as Grimes notes, "Jerrier's got a wild attentionto detail and is dedicated to getting Neapolitan-style pizza just right every time." Jerrier has alsoexpanded his empire with a second Cane Rosso

location (and ), pluscelebrating New York-style pie.

Coalfire's thin-crust pizzas are — surprise! —finished in a coal-fired oven to create what itswebsite describes as "an American spin on thetraditional Neapolitan style pizza." CriticMichael Nagrant says Coalfire "is the closestChicago gets to NYC-style or East Coast pizzaand it's pretty damn close." Food writer andformer Eater Chicago editor Ari Bendersky

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Delancey1415 NW 70th St, Seattle, WA 98117(206) 838-1960Website<http://www.delanceyseattle.com>

DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies2350 Highway 33, Robbinsville, NJ08691(609) 341-8480Website<http://www.delorenzostomatopies.com>

Di Fara Pizza1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn, NY 11230(718) 258-1367Website <http://www.difara.com>

Photo[]

writes, "I'd eat this pizza all the time if it wasn'ton the other side of the city. I love the taste thecoal-fired oven adds to the crust and it's aperfectly thin and crispy crust with amazingdelicious fresh flavors."

Seattle Met

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Brandon Pettit and Molly Wizenberg openedtheir Seattle pizzeria Delancey back in 2009,and it quickly became one of the city's hottest

restaurants. food and drink editorAllecia Vermillion writes, "Goddammit ifDelancey doesn't totally deliver on all the buzzand hype and crazy-high expectations. It's a rareplace where I will actually, gladly, wait morethan an hour for a table (especially if I can get aseat at Essex, their next-door bar). The toppingsare on the simpler side, but there's alwayssomething (anchovy, Padron chiles, brilliantfresh mozzarella) that makes things interesting.The crusts are beautifully blistery and a dash ofinconsistency is part of their charm."

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DeLorenzo's has been making its famous tomatopies since 1947, but has only spent the last fiveyears in its Robbinsville location. This particularlocation is run by the son of one of the previousowners and Scott Wiener declares, "It's fantasticwith one of my favorite sausage pies in theworld. Solid crust that snaps at the end butyields for the first few bites."

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"My all time favorite pizzeria, a pie at Di Fara'sis the ideal to which I judge all other pizza,"writes Jason Feirman of I Dream of Pizza.Indeed, there's no pizzeria on this list asunanimously beloved by the panelists as DiFara. All of them point to the legendary DomDemarco, who is still making the square pizzasand slices himself, as reason enough to wait inline at Di Fara. Mario Batali explains, "DomDeMarco is the real deal pizziaolo and his piesare worth the wait!!"

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Domenica123 Baronne St, New Orleans, LA70112(504) 648-6020Website<http://www.domenicarestaurant.com>

Franny's348 Flatbush Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11238(718) 230-0221Website<http://frannysbrooklyn.com>

Harry's Pizzeria3918 N Miami Ave, Miami, FL 33127(786) 275-4963Website

<http://harryspizzeria.tumblr.com/>

is looking

Photo[]

Chefs John Besh and Alon Shaya have earnedthemselves a spot at the top of the New Orleanspizza scene among a number of worthycompetitors. These artisanal wood-fired pizzascan even be had on the cheap: Every day from 3p.m. until 6 p.m., pizzas here are half off. Even

better, the restaurant group to open anoffshot concept called Pizza Domenica thatwould focus on pizza, salads, and small plates.Former Eater NOLA editor Alexander Hancockwrites, "Alon Shaya really knows his stuff, andat Domenica he and the team is making pizzas(and a whole lot other awesomeness) that notonly is among the best in New Orleans, but canrival anything else in the country. I'd put moneyon that."

newly relocated

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The Franny's is a quintessentialneighborhood restaurant with Neapolitan-inspired wood oven pizzas to rival any others intown. Pizzacentric's Michael Berman writes,"You can taste how good the ingredients arehere. I think they shop at farmers' markets fiveor six days a week for ingredients for therestaurant. ... For this style of pie, I especiallylike Franny's because it doesn't get soggy likemany of the others do."

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Chef/owner Michael Schwartz opened Harry'sPizzeria in September 2011, and it has quicklyrisen to become the purveyor of Miami's mostformidable pies. These thin-crust pizzas arecooked in a wood-burning oven with toppingsthat range from the classic margherita to theMGFD Bacon pizza topped with caramelizedonion, potato, cave-aged gruyere and arugula.Urban Daddy's Jackie Gutierrez-Jones writes,"Michael Schwartz can do no wrong. Great figand pork pie, pizza/beer brunches and a stellarseries of chef pop-up dinners with famouspizzaiolos from around the country."

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Iggie's818 N Calvert St, Baltimore, MD 21202(410) 528-0818

Website <http://iggiespizza.com>

Joe's Pizza7 Carmine St., New York, NY 10014(212) 366-1182

Website<http://www.joespizzanyc.com>

Ken's Artisan Pizza304 SE 28th Ave, Portland, OR 97124

(503) 517-9951Website<http://www.kensartisan.com/pizza.html>

Little Star Pizza846 Divisadero St, San Francisco, CA

94117(415) 441-1118

Website<http://www.littlestarpizza.com>

Photo[]

Iggie's is tops in a town that is starting to getmuch more serious about pizza. Jason Feirmanof I Dream of Pizza rates it an 8.8 and explains"their toppings on many pies are a bit out of theordinary, but not so much so that you’d say:they put that on pizza?! For example: tomatoragu, cumin, and roasted duck all make theirways on (separate) pies. You don’t normally seesuch ingredients on pizza, but they each makesense." Iggie's uses Neapolitan-style dough and,rather than accept tips, the restaurant givesmoney to a different charity each month.

just expanded to their second location

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There was significant debate among thepanelists as to the best New York slice, butFamous Joe's Pizza took the edge, and for goodreason. Per Eater NY editor Greg Morabito:"Joe's is the quintessential New York $2.50slice, bar none, absolutely with a bullet. They in

40 years.It's what people think about when they thinkabout a New York slice, and they're amazinglyconsistent. Family owned and operated."

Jason Lander/Flickr[Photo: ]

Portland baker Ken Forkish and chef AlanManiscalco are behind this pizzeria that servesup pies — fired in a wood-burning oven — thatwere inspired by trips to Italy. Expect blisteredcrusts and pies that include margherita, a NewYorker, olive, soppressata, and fennel sausageand onions. I Dream of Pizza's Jason Feirmanwrites, "I love this spot. Some of the betterNeapolitan type pies I've had. Cool vibe. It'sright out of Portlandia. A must-have on the list."

eric molina/Flickr[Photo: ]

Eater San Francisco editor Allie Pape vouchesfor the deep dish pies at Little Star Pizza, whichshe notes even supplies the recipes for the pizzasat St. Louis pizzeria Pi. (A favorite of PresidentBarack Obama.) Tasting Table's JonathanKauffman agrees, writing that Little Star has"the best Chicago-style deep-dish pizza in theBay Area, mostly because the crust has aflakiness to it that makes it seem a little lighter."There are three locations in the Bay Area,including two in San Francisco proper. Theyalso offer bicycle delivery.

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Mani Osteria & Bar341 E Liberty St, Ann Arbor, MI 48104

(734) 769-6700Website <http://maniosteria.com>

Modern Apizza874 State St, New Haven, CT 06511(203) 776-5306

Website<http://www.modernapizza.com>

Motorino349 E 12th St, New York, NY 10003(212) 777-2644

Website<http://www.motorinopizza.com>

Osteria640 N Broad St, Philadelphia, PA

19130(215) 763-0920

Website<http://www.osteriaphilly.com>

Metro Timeswrote last year

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Mani Osteria has gotten a lot of attention sinceit opened in Ann Arbor more than two yearsago. These thin-crust artisanal pizzas are firedin a wood-burning oven and include varietiessuch as margherita, peach pie, clam pie, burrata

and balsamic, and more. The ' EvanHansen that these pizza-makers

"do a great job, producing arguably the best OldWorld-style pizzas in the region."

Ethan Prater/Flickr[Photo: ]

Though its Wooster Street counterparts tend toget the bulk of the pizza attention for their NewHaven-style pies, Modern is the pizzeria thatpanelists liked best in town. Modern serves thethin-crust apizza that has become synonymouswith New Haven, and Scott Wiener notes that italso "has the quirky option of American cheese."Eater Editorial Director Amanda Kludt writes, "Ilove the vibe of this place and their clam pie."

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Motorino is New York City's essential spot forNeapolitan wood oven pizzeria, offering clampies, Stracciatella, and more. Scott Wiener ofScott's Pizza Tours writes, "Great crust andperfect blend of richness in the sauce andcheese. It's a real modification of Neapolitanpizza with more emphasis on order than speed."They've got locations in the East Village,Williamsburg and, now, even Hong Kong.

opens this FallPhoto[]

Chef Marc Vetri's Osteria doesn't focusexclusively on pizza, but it still serves a damnfine example of a pie. Mario Batali casts his votefor Osteria, while I Dream of Pizza's JasonFeirman writes, "Everything is delicious here."The menu offers a few neapolitan-style pies(mortadella, marinara, and peperoncini) as wellas traditional pies like a margherita, or thosetopped with housemade meatballs or octopus.Look for even more of these well-liked pies

when Pizzeria Vetri .

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Paulie Gee’s60 Greenpoint Ave, Brooklyn, NY11222(347) 987-3747

Website <http://www.pauliegee.com>

Pizano's Pizza & Pasta864 N State St, Chicago, IL 60610(312) 751-1766

Website<http://www.pizanoschicago.com>

Pizaro's Pizza14028 Memorial Dr, Houston, TX77079(281) 589-7277

Website<http://www.pizarospizza.com/>

Pizzaiolo5008 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA

94609(510) 652-4888

Website<http://pizzaiolooakland.com>

Photo[]

Paul Gionnone's spin on Neapolitan-style pizzahas attracted scads of attention from the pizzacognoscenti over the years (in fact, fulldisclosure, two panelists had to recusethemselves from weighing in on this pizzeriadue to their connections to it). But these pieswith names like Arugula Scmoogula, Feel LikeBacon Love, Hellboy, and A Whiter Shade ofKale get that attention for good reason. ScottWiener of Scott's Pizza Tours explains, "A cozyroom and incredibly tasty pizza make this one ofmy favorites in town. You know it's good whenyour list of 'must eat' pizzas is often more thanthe number of people at the table. Absolutelyone of the best."

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Chicago restaurant critic Michael Nagrant callsPizano's "the best deep dish in the city, handsdown." Owner Rudy Malnati, Jr. comes from acelebrated line of Chicago pizza-makers — hisfather opened Pizzeria Uno in 1943 and now hismother is responsible for the dough at Pizano's.Beyond the deep dish, Pizano's is also highlyacclaimed for its Chicago-style thin buttercrustpies.

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Houston's most admired pizzas come out of thewood-fired brick ovens at Pizaro's PizzaNapoletana, yet another pizzeria that focusessolely on traditional Neapolitan pies. Foodwriter and former Eater Houston editor AmberAmbrose writes, "The best part about this placeis that it's slightly hidden in a suburban area ofHouston. There's no fancy decorations, no valetout front, no extensive wine list, no pretensionwhatsoever. What there is, however, is a family-run place with a real focus on authenticity. ...the owner is so concerned about everyonehaving the freshest pizza that he refuses to dotake-out or delivery."

Pizzaiolo owner Charlie Hallowell previouslyworked in the kitchen at the iconic Chez Panissefor eight years before launching Pizzaiolo out inOakland. Tasting Table's San Francisco editorJonathan Kauffman writes that Pizzaiolo is hisfavorite Northern California style pizza,

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Pizzeria Bianco623 E Adams St, Phoenix, AZ 85004(602) 258-8300

Website<http://www.pizzeriabianco.com>

Pizzeria Locale1730 Pearl St, Boulder, CO 80302(303) 442-3003

Website <http://localeboulder.com/>

Pizzeria Lola5557 Xerxes Ave S, Minneapolis, MN

55410(612) 424-8338

Website<http://www.pizzerialola.com>

Arnold Gatilao/Flickr[Photo: ]

explaining, "The crust is bubbly, a little smoky,with a good crunch. But just as important iswhat Charlie Hallowell puts on the pie: nettleleaves and pecorino, say, or Monterey Bay squidand cherry tomatoes. The pies change regularly,and the chef is always thinking of the pizza as adish."

Bianco told Eater last year

is opening up a second locationPhoto[]

James Beard Award-winning chef Chris Biancois the man behind the cultishly beloved PizzeriaBianco in Phoenix, Arizona. This is the kind ofpizzeria for which people make pilgrimages for

its pies that useNaples as a reference but not dogmatically so.Mario Batali writes, "Chris Bianco's pizza isexceptional, in large part because he has theItalian sensibility to let the fresh ingredientsspeak for themselves." Good news for the peopleof Tucson: Bianco there sometime in the near

future.

just recently opened

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Eater Denver editor Andra Zeppelin reports thatBoulder's Pizzeria Locale "is up there with anyNeapolitan pizza I've ever had." The teambehind Frasca Food and Wine opened thispizzeria a couple of years back in Boulder — and

they a second location inDenver, too. Master sommelier Bobby Stuckeyand chef Lachlan MacKinnon-Pattersondescribe Pizzeria Locale as a contemporary takeon the traditions of Naples. The pizza menuincludes a selection of both red and white pies.

has hailed

Minnesota Monthlygave it a rave review

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There's no shortage of great pizza in the TwinCities and Eater Minneapolis editor ClaireStanford says Pizzeria Lola is a local favoritethanks to its "really inventive toppings, someKorean influence ... and also great ingredients."

Chef Andrew Zimmern Ann Kim'spies as among the finest in America,recommending particularly the popularSunnyside pizza (guanciale, leeks, cream,pecorino and sunnyside up eggs). And 's Dara

Moskowitz Grumdahl ,writing, "The crust is

incredibly dimensional—bready, smoky, sweet,light, and deep. The toppings are equally great:various, deeply considered, and delicious."

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Pizzeria Mozza641 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, CA

90036(323) 297-0101

Website <http://www.mozza-la.com>

Pupatella Neapolitan Pizza5104 Wilson Blvd, Arlington, VA 22205

(571) 312-7230Website

<http://www.pupatella.com/_/home/home.html>

Sally's Apizza237 Wooster St, New Haven, CT 06511(203) 624-5271

Website<http://www.sallysapizza.net/default.aspx>

Santarpio's Pizza111 Chelsea St, Boston, MA 02128(617) 567-9871

Website <http://santarpiospizza.com>

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In November 2006, dream team NancySilverton, Mario Batali, and Joe Bastianichopened Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, where ithas since become an absolute staple for thelocals. (Not to mention a must-stop for pizzasnobs passing through the City of Angels.) ZachBrooks of Midtown Lunch and the Food Is theNew Rock podcast writes, "Selling massiveamounts of carbs to a restaurant packed withAngelenos day in day out is a feat worthy ofpraise in and of itself. They're doing god'swork."

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Pupatella got its start as a food truck and lateropened a brick-and-mortar in Arlington,Virginia, just outside of DC. Chef Enzo Algarmeadheres strictly to the Neapolitan pizza style inhis casual 45-seat pizzeria. He bakes his pies forone minute in a scorching hot wood-burningoven to the point where they are leopard-spotted and wet in the middle just as it shouldbe.

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Another thin-crust New Haven entry, Sally's ismuch loved especially for its red pies. There arefierce rivalries between this and Frank Pepe's,but Eater Boston's Rachel Leah Blumenthal isTeam Sally's. She offers up a few tips for anyonelooking for one of these legendary pies, writing,"The cool/terrible thing about Sally's is that youwait hours for a seat and then hours again onceyou're inside because they only cook one pizza ata time. And there's a special reservation andtakeout phone number that only friends/familyknow."

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Santarpio's is one of Boston's classic pizzerias,constantly voted to best-of lists for the NewYork-style pizza they've been slinging since1933. I Dream of Pizza's Jason Feirman writes,"Their pies were great and this place reallyencompasses 'tough and gritty' Boston. It's nofrills — there isn't even at TV at the bar — andyou sort of feel like you're an extra in a MarkWahlberg film."

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Serious Pie316 Virginia St, Seattle, WA 98101(206) 838-7388Website

<http://tomdouglas.com/index.php?page=serious-pie>

Settebello Pizzeria140 S Green Valley Pkwy, Henderson,

NV 89012(702) 222-3556

Website <http://www.settebello.net>

Spacca Napoli1769 W Sunnyside Ave, Chicago, IL60640

(773) 878-2420

Website

<http://spaccanapolipizzeria.com/>

Seattle Met

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Serious Pie is the Neapolitan-inspiredbrainchild of Seattle's expert baker andrestaurateur Tom Douglas. Tasting Table'sJonathan Kauffman writes that Douglas "madesure it was uniquely Seattle: The oblong pies,cooked in an applewood-fired oven, areassertively crackly and airy, but not tough.Douglas uses local clams, local mushrooms, anda variety of salumi the cooks make in house." 's

Allecia Vermillion adds, "I'm asucker for the crust, which engages in someserious salt brinksmanship. ... Toppings hit thatsweet spot between overly simple Neapolitanand 'let's pile a bunch of random shit on top'excess."

Las Vegas Eater 38Photo[]

Settebello has a few locations spread outthrough the West, including two in Utah andtwo in California. Scott Wiener of Scott's PizzaTours is a fan of the Henderson location,writing, "This is beyond a doubt one of the bestNeapolitan pizzas I've eaten ever. That includesSan Francisco, New York and Naples itself.Settebello is incredible and completelyunexpected in a place like Las Vegas." Thesetraditional Neapolitan pies are also a mainstay

on the .

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Chicagoans revere the traditional Neapolitanpizzas coming out of the wood-burning ovens atthe 10-year-old Spacca Napoli. Food writer andformer Eater Chicago editor Ari Benderskyexplains, "Spacca deserves to be on any toppizza list, Chicago or otherwise. It was really theplace that started the Neapolitan movementhere and has held its place at the top. The crustis perfectly crispy and doughy and wet in themiddle. While they have their staples like themargherita with mozzarella, basil and pecorino,I love their funghi e salsiccia and the prosciuttoe rucola — the fresh arugula adds a perfectpepperiness. This is one of the few places intown that makes you feel like you've actuallytraveled to Naples for dinner."

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Star Tavern Pizzeria400 High St, Orange, NJ 07050

(973) 675-3336

Website <http://www.startavern.net>

Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano1524 Neptune Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11224

(718) 372-8606

Una Pizza Napoletana210 11th St, San Francisco, CA 94103

(415) 861-3444

Website <http://www.unapizza.com>

Via 3131111 E 6th St, Austin, TX 78702

Website <http://via313.com/>

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Star Tavern is a go-to pizzeria for thin-crust bar-style pies, which it has been serving in Orange,New Jersey, for the past 65 years. I Dream ofPizza's Jason Feirman writes, "This place servesthe best bar pies I've had. ... They're super thinand super cheap and always satisfying."Varieties include cheese, Sicilian tomato,eggplant, white clam, pesto, and more.

as high as ever

Prince Roy/Flickr[Photo: ]

Slice founder Adam Kuban declares Totonno'sthe best iteration of coal-oven style pizza in NewYork. This Coney Island pizzeria was recentlyclosed for nearly five months as a result ofHurricane Sandy's devastation, but demand is

for the thin-crust wonder that isTotonno's pizza. Mario Batali writes, "I go toConey Island once or twice a year…just for thispizza!"

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New York City pizzaiolo Anthony Mangierimoved his highly respected Una PizzaNapoletana to San Francisco back in 2010 andset off to dominate the local Neapolitan pizzascene. Tasting Table San Francisco editorJonathan Kauffman writes, "This may be thebest Neapolitan-style pizza in America —certainly on the West Coast — because AnthonyMangieri is so damn single-minded. Hisminimalist approach (5 pies, no salad) pisses offa lot of people, but also rewards close attention.The crust bubbles where it wants to bubble,chars in just the right spots, and never seems tobe the same pie as the last one you ordered."

The best pizza coming out of Austin right nowactually happens to be from the Detroit-style Via313. Slice founder Adam Kuban verifies thelegitimacy of these square pies, noting that theyare "as good as Buddy's, if not better."Meanwhile former Eater Austin editor AndreaGrimes writes that these pies "are the kind ofnon-fussy drinking fuel you'd expect from acouple of bearded brothers in a trailer outside adive bar. And yet, this isn't just drunk food:these guys use high-quality ingredients they'vespecially selected for the perfect meaty, savoryDetroit pizza taste. You don't eat Via 313 pizza.